IN THE SEASON

Close into the edge of the forest, so close that the trees of the

_bornage_ stand pleasantly about the last houses, sits a certain small

and very quiet village. There is but one street, and that, not long ago,

was a green lane, where the cattle browsed between the doorsteps. As you

go up this street, drawing ever nearer the beginning of the wood, you

will arrive at last before an inn where artists lodge. To the door (for

I imagine it to be six o’clock on some fine summer’s even), half a dozen,

or maybe half a score, of people have brought out chairs, and now sit

sunning themselves, and waiting the omnibus from Melun. If you go on

into the court you will find as many more, some in billiard-room over

absinthe and a match of corks some without over a last cigar and a

vermouth. The doves coo and flutter from the dovecot; Hortense is

drawing water from the well; and as all the rooms open into the court,

you can see the white-capped cook over the furnace in the kitchen, and

some idle painter, who has stored his canvases and washed his brushes,

jangling a waltz on the crazy, tongue-tied piano in the salle-à-manger.

‘_Edmond_, _encore un vermouth_,’ cries a man in velveteen, adding in a

tone of apologetic afterthought, ‘_un double_, _s’il vous plaît_.’

‘Where are you working?’ asks one in pure white linen from top to toe.

‘At the Carrefour de l’Épine,’ returns the other in corduroy (they are

all gaitered, by the way). ‘I couldn’t do a thing to it. I ran out of

white. Where were you?’ ‘I wasn’t working. I was looking for motives.’

Here is an outbreak of jubilation, and a lot of men clustering together

about some new-comer with outstretched hands; perhaps the

‘correspondence’ has come in and brought So-and-so from Paris, or perhaps

it is only So-and-so who has walked over from Chailly to dinner.

‘_À table_, _Messieurs_!’ cries M. Siron, bearing through the court the

first tureen of soup. And immediately the company begins to settle down

about the long tables in the dining-room, framed all round with sketches

of all degrees of merit and demerit. There’s the big picture of the

huntsman winding a horn with a dead boar between his legs, and his

legs—well, his legs in stockings. And here is the little picture of a

raw mutton-chop, in which Such-a-one knocked a hole last summer with no

worse a missile than a plum from the dessert. And under all these works

of art so much eating goes forward, so much drinking, so much jabbering

in French and English, that it would do your heart good merely to peep

and listen at the door. One man is telling how they all went last year

to the fête at Fleury, and another how well so-and-so would sing of an

evening: and here are a third and fourth making plans for the whole

future of their lives; and there is a fifth imitating a conjurer and

making faces on his clenched fist, surely of all arts the most difficult

and admirable! A sixth has eaten his fill, lights a cigarette, and

resigns himself to digestion. A seventh has just dropped in, and calls

for soup. Number eight, meanwhile, has left the table, and is once more

trampling the poor piano under powerful and uncertain fingers.

Dinner over, people drop outside to smoke and chat. Perhaps we go along

to visit our friends at the other end of the village, where there is

always a good welcome and a good talk, and perhaps some pickled oysters

and white wine to close the evening. Or a dance is organised in the

dining-room, and the piano exhibits all its paces under manful jockeying,

to the light of three or four candles and a lamp or two, while the

waltzers move to and fro upon the wooden floor, and sober men, who are

not given to such light pleasures, get up on the table or the sideboard,

and sit there looking on approvingly over a pipe and a tumbler of wine.

Or sometimes—suppose my lady moon looks forth, and the court from out the

half-lit dining-room seems nearly as bright as by day, and the light

picks out the window-panes, and makes a clear shadow under every

vine-leaf on the wall—sometimes a picnic is proposed, and a basket made

ready, and a good procession formed in front of the hotel. The two

trumpeters in honour go before; and as we file down the long alley, and

up through devious footpaths among rocks and pine-trees, with every here

and there a dark passage of shadow, and every here and there a spacious

outlook over moonlit woods, these two precede us and sound many a jolly

flourish as they walk. We gather ferns and dry boughs into the cavern,

and soon a good blaze flutters the shadows of the old bandits’ haunt, and

shows shapely beards and comely faces and toilettes ranged about the

wall. The bowl is lit, and the punch is burnt and sent round in scalding

thimblefuls. So a good hour or two may pass with song and jest. And

then we go home in the moonlit morning, straggling a good deal among the

birch tufts and the boulders, but ever called together again, as one of

our leaders winds his horn. Perhaps some one of the party will not heed

the summons, but chooses out some by-way of his own. As he follows the

winding sandy road, he hears the flourishes grow fainter and fainter in

the distance, and die finally out, and still walks on in the strange

coolness and silence and between the crisp lights and shadows of the

moonlit woods, until suddenly the bell rings out the hour from far-away

Chailly, and he starts to find himself alone. No surf-bell on forlorn

and perilous shores, no passing knell over the busy market-place, can

speak with a more heavy and disconsolate tongue to human ears. Each

stroke calls up a host of ghostly reverberations in his mind. And as he

stands rooted, it has grown once more so utterly silent that it seems to

him he might hear the church bells ring the hour out all the world over,

not at Chailly only, but in Paris, and away in outlandish cities, and in

the village on the river, where his childhood passed between the sun and

flowers.

Essays of Travel · 第 21 / 27 题