manner in which Monsieur Bougainville recites this part of his
narrative; for it would be in a high degree ridiculous to suppose that
the Priest, because he had the misfortune to be crooked, should be, by
that circumstance, the less qualified to conduct a band; nor can we see,
if the works represented were, as our author calls them, _divine_, the
great impropriety of their being under the direction of a Priest, nor of
that Priest’s being dressed in the habit of his order. The French are
ambitious of being accounted the best bred people in the world; they
claim a kind of exclusive right to politeness; but they are only the
smugglers and monopolizers of that commodity, to the injury of the fair
traders, the English, the Scots, the Hibernians, whose open sincerity,
and manly freedom of behaviour, gives the lie to the French assumption
of a superior gentility. It is evident, from many instances in Mons.
Bougainville’s voyage, that a Frenchman can, when he pleases, be guilty
of a savage illiberality of conduct, that would disgrace the untutored
boor of the wilds of Siberia, or the still more uncultivated savage of
the uncivilized parts of America.
At this time there lay in the harbour of Rio de Janeiro, a French ship,
called the Morning Star, and a Spanish man of war, named the Diligent;
and, while the Viceroy behaved with all imaginable politeness to the
Frenchman, he had artfully protracted the stay of the Spaniard no less
than eight months, during all which time her Commander had not been able
to procure the articles necessary for the repair of his vessel, and
without which she could not proceed on her voyage. In this dilemma, Don
Francesco de Medina, Captain of the Diligent, applied to Mons.
Bougainville, for the assistance of his carpenters and caulkers, who
were immediately sent, both from the Boudeuse and the Etoile.
The complaisance with which the Viceroy treated the gentlemen on board
the French vessels, surprised the Spaniards, who told them, that they
must not long expect so great a share of his favour; and they had soon
reason to be convinced, that the prediction was founded in truth; for
though the Viceroy had permitted Mons. Bougainville to purchase a sloop,
and he had actually agreed for one, his Excellency thought proper to
forbid the delivery of it; and notwithstanding they had contracted with
this tyrannical Viceroy for the purchase of some timber from the royal
Dock-yards, he afterwards changed his mind, and would not let them have
it. He even went so far as to refuse Mons. Bougainville, and the
gentlemen on board his ships, permission to lodge in a house near the
town, while the Boudeuse was repairing, notwithstanding the owner of the
house had consented to accommodate the French officers.
Mons. Bougainville, piqued at these repeated instances of the Viceroy’s
want of good manners, and his total inattention to the common rights of
humanity, determined to pay him a visit, to remonstrate with him on the
glaring impropriety of his conduct: taking with him therefore two of his
officers, he repaired to the house of the Viceroy, who was agitated with
the most furious passion the moment Mons. Bougainville began to speak,
and commanded him to leave the house; this, however, he refused to do,
but kept his seat for some time, even after the Viceroy had called his
guards, who, with more prudence than their master had shewn, neglected
to obey his summons, and the French gentlemen left the house, without
seeming to have caused any disturbance. Not long after their departure,
an additional number of guards were placed round the palace, and orders
were issued, that if any Frenchman should be seen in the streets after
the sun was down, he should be taken into custody. The Viceroy likewise
commanded the Captain of the French ship named the Morning Star, to quit
his present situation, and anchor his vessel under the fort of
Villagahon, which order was complied with on the following day.
One of the Portuguese officers was exiled, and another imprisoned,
because they had behaved with civility to Mons. Bougainville; and it was
easy to foresee, that such of the inhabitants of the place as traded
with the French, would experience the consequences of the Viceroy’s
indignation; every preparation was therefore made to quit a place, which
the tyranny of the count de Acunha had rendered so disagreeable. The
Captain of the Spanish man of war supplied Mons. Bougainville with
timber proper for the repair of his ship, and an inhabitant of Rio
Janeiro privately sold him a number of planks, which he was in great
want of; and, indeed, the inhabitants in general behaved with a kindness
and civility, which fully proved the sense they entertained of the
impropriety of the Viceroy’s conduct.
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to give an account of the riches of Rio
Janeiro, and the amount of the revenues arising to the King of Portugal,
from the mines of Brasil; these mines we have already given some account
of in the former part of this work, but as Mons. Bougainville’s account
is very interesting, and contains many particulars there unnoticed, we
make no doubt but the reader will approve our tracing him with the pen
of accuracy and fidelity.
The mines which lie nearest to the city of Rio Janeiro are not less
distant than two hundred and twenty miles, and are called the _General
mines_. His most faithful majesty, having a fifth part of the produce of
these mines, seldom receives less than one hundred and twelve arobas of
gold from their annual produce, and sometimes considerably more.
There are mines at Sero-frio, Sabara, and Rio des Mortes, which are
under the jurisdiction of the managers of the general mines. Near
Sero-frio is a river, the stream of which being turned out of its usual
channel, diamonds, topazes, chrysolites, and other valuable stones, are
found among the pebbles in the bed of the river; nor are any diamonds
brought from the Brasils but what are found in this particular spot.
The stones thus found are deemed the property of the owners of the
mines; but the King of Portugal has appointed a surveyor, to whom they
must give in an account of what diamonds are found with the utmost
exactness. These the surveyor puts into a casket which has three locks,
and is enclosed in iron plates; the Viceroy keeping one of the keys, the
_Provador de Hazienda Reale_ the second, and the surveyor the third.
This casket, and the keys with which it is locked, are then enclosed in
a second casket, on which these three gentlemen affix their seals; and
this again is placed in a third, on which the Viceroy puts his seal, and
thus ships the treasure for Portugal, where the coffers are opened in
the presence of his most faithful majesty, who having selected such of
the diamonds as he pleases, the owners of the mines are paid for them,
at a rate stipulated by a previous agreement.
The number of slaves employed in searching for diamonds is about eight
hundred, and for every day’s labour of each of these slaves the King of
Portugal receives a Spanish dollar from the proprietors of the mines.
It is extremely dangerous for any person to secrete a diamond; yet the
practice is very common, as the smuggled goods can be so easily hidden.
When a person is detected in this illicit trade, if he is rich he is
sentenced to deliver up the diamonds, pay twice their value, suffer one
year’s imprisonment, and then be banished to the coast of Africa for
life: but if the offender be poor, he is generally doomed to suffer
capitally.
In every district of the Brasils where gold is found, a house is
erected, to which it must be carried, and the King’s share paid, the
rest is sent to Rio Janeiro, where it is melted into wedges, and in that
state returned to the owners: these wedges being numbered, and stamped
with the King’s arms, the weight is marked on each wedge: the gold is
likewise assayed, and the alloy stamped on it, for the greater
expedition when it comes to be coined.
About ninety miles from Rio Janeiro is a place called _Praybuna_, where
there is an office for the registering the ingots which are the property
of private people; and as all persons coming from the mines must
necessarily pass this place, two military officers are stationed here,
who have fifty men under their command, whose business it is strictly to
examine, that no illicit trade is carried on; so that every one who
passes is obliged to submit to the strictest search. At this place,
exclusive of the tax to the King, men and beasts of burden are taxed
with a farther toll of a real and a half each, the half of which becomes
the property of the officers and soldiers, and the other half goes to
his Portuguese Majesty.
The ingots of gold which belong to private people having been registered
at Praybuna, are then carried to Rio Janeiro, where the proprietors are
paid their value in demi-doubloons, which are worth about thirty
shillings each of English money; but there is a profit to the King for
alloy, and for coining these demi-doubloons, of about four shillings and
six-pence on each. The mint at Rio Janeiro is a most noble building,
admirably adapted for the purpose of coining money, which is performed
with the most astonishing expedition; and this, indeed, is rendered
necessary, because two Portuguese fleets usually arrive nearly at the
same time that the gold is brought from the mines.
The fleet which arrives from Porto brings coarse cloth, several articles
of food, with brandy, wines, and vinegar; and this, with the fleet which
comes from Lisbon, occasions Rio Janeiro to be a place of very
considerable trade; the effects on being landed, are charged with a duty
of ten per cent. to his Portuguese Majesty.
Soon after the earthquake at Lisbon, in the year 1755, an impost of two
and a half per cent. under the denomination of a free gift to the King,
was laid on all goods landed at Rio Janeiro, so that the whole duty paid
is no less than twelve and a half per cent. The latter duty is instantly
paid on the goods being brought on shore, but the officers of the
custom-house will take security for the payment of the former at the
expiration of half a year.
There are two districts, named Pratacon and Quiaba, the mines of which
produce diamonds; but no person is permitted to seek for them, that the
market may not be overstocked; for it is evident that, to make diamonds
plentiful, would be to render them of little value.
His Portuguese Majesty is at an expence of about one hundred and
forty-five thousand pounds sterling, annually, for repairing of the
ships and public buildings, working the mines, and paying all his
servants, civil and military.
The following account will shew what value, in sterling money, arises
annually to his most faithful Majesty, from the royal revenues of Rio de
Janeiro.
DOLLARS.
The King’s fifths are generally, one year with another,
about one hundred and fifty arobas of gold, which make,
in Spanish dollars, 1,125,000
The duty on diamonds amounts to 240,000
The profit arising from the coinage of money is 400,000
The duty of ten per cent. paid at the custom house is 350,000
The free gift of two and a half per cent. amounts to about 87,000
Various produces of the mines, with the poll-tax, and
monies arising from the sale of offices and employments, 225,000
A duty laid on negro slaves, produces 110,000
A tenth on all the food of the country, and the taxes on
soap, salt and train-oil, bring in a revenue of 130,000
─────────
Total value in dollars 2,667,000
─────────
Hence it will appear, that the revenues arising to the King of Portugal
from Rio Janeiro are something more, annually, than four hundred and
fifty thousand pounds sterling, reckoning the dollars at four shillings
and six-pence each.
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to give an account of his leaving Rio
Janeiro, and his second voyage to Montevideo; of which we shall
carefully select as many particulars as may afford either instruction or
entertainment to the reader.
On the 14th of July 1767, the anchors of the Boudeuse and Etoile were
weighed; but as the wind abated soon afterwards, they were obliged again
to bring to, before they could get out of the harbour. They sailed,
however, on the following day; and in the night of the 19th, the
main-top-sail of the Boudeuse was carried away by the violence of the
wind.
On board of Mons. Bougainville’s ship was a professor of astronomy, who
had made the expedition with a view of discovering the longitude at sea;
and as an eclipse of the sun was to happen on the 25th of the month,
great hopes were formed, that an opportunity would thereby be obtained
of making the wished-for discovery: but it happened, that these sanguine
hopes were all frustrated, by the intervention of clouds, which obscured
the face of the sun almost during the whole time of the eclipse.
On the morning of the 28th our adventurers had sight of the Castilles,
at the distance of something more than thirty miles. They saw the
entrance of a bay, which Mons. Bougainville conjectures to be the same
on the banks of which the Spaniards have erected a fort. The vessels
sailed into the Rio de la Plata, and were within sight of the Maldonados
on the 29th; early in the morning of the 31st, they had a view of the
Isle of Lobos, and before night came to an anchor in the Bay of
Montevideo.
The ships were no sooner anchored, than the Governor sent a gentleman on
board Mons. Bougainville’s vessel, who acquainted him, that most of the
Jesuits in those parts had been lately seized, and their estates
confiscated, in consequence of an order received from the Court of
Spain: that these devoted victims of superior power had scarcely made
the least resistance; that they bore their misfortunes with a degree of
patience and calm submission that did them honour; and that no less than
forty of them had been taken away in the vessel which brought the orders
for their disgrace.
As it was necessary that Mons. Bougainville should remain in his present
station till the equinox was passed, his first care was to build an
hospital for the sick, and to take lodgings at Montevideo. This being
done, he repaired to Buenos Ayres, in order to hasten the provision of
such necessaries as he wanted, for which he was to pay the same price as
the King of Spain usually gave for the same commodities.
Mons. Bougainville was also desirous of conversing with the
Governor-general Don Francisco Buccarelli, on the behaviour of the
Governor of Rio Janeiro and he soon learnt, that Don Buccarelli, instead
of making reprisals on the Viceroy of the Brasils, which he could have
done, very much to the prejudice of Portugal, had, more prudently, only
sent a narrative of his proceedings to the Court of Spain.
Don Buccarelli was so obligingly ready to supply Mons. Bougainville with
such articles as he stood in need of, that in less than three weeks two
small vessels sailed for Montevideo, with ladings of flour and biscuit
for the use of the French ships. Mons. Bougainville also sailed to
Montevideo, leaving an inferior officer at Buenos Ayres, to see the
remainder of their provisions shipped.
They now expected to sail in a short time, when an accident happened
that detained them some weeks beyond the intended period. A Spanish
register-ship being at anchor, a violent hurricane arose in the night,
and driving her against the Etoile, carried away part of the head of
that vessel, and broke her bowsprit on a level with the deck.
The leaks of the Etoile being encreased by this accident, it was
absolutely necessary that she should undergo a thorough repair; but as
there was not timber enough at Montevideo for this purpose, Mons.
Bougainville obtained Don Buccarelli’s permission, that she might sail
up the river, to the Encenada de Baragan, which is a little bay formed
by its mouth; and in this bay, by the 21st of October, she was put in a
condition proper for sailing, and began to take in the necessary
provisions.
In the road of Encenada Mons. Bougainville found a frigate and several
merchant-ships which were bound for Europe, and two Spanish vessels,
which having taken in a store of ammunition and provisions, were bound
to Falkland’s islands; and from thence to the South Seas, to take on
board the Jesuits of Peru and Chili. Two Xebecks likewise lay here, one
of which was loaded with presents from his most Catholic Majesty, to the
inhabitants of Terra del Fuego, in grateful testimony of his sense of
their generous conduct towards the crew of the ship Conception, which
was wrecked on their coasts about two years before.
The inhabitants of the country on the banks of the Encenada de Baragan
live in poor mean huts, which are constructed with rushes, having a
covering of leather. These are built in a very irregular manner, on a
miserably barren soil, and the country around them is so poor, that the
people find it very difficult to procure the necessaries of life.
From the road of Encenada de Baragan five ships sailed for Spain, having
on board most of the French families which had quitted Falkland’s
islands, and two hundred and fifty Jesuits. About this time two Spanish
register ships arrived, one of them had been no less than seven months
in her passage from Europe, above six weeks of which were expended in
the doubling of Cape Horn, where the fury of the winds was such as to
carry away her rudder, and lay her under the necessity of seeking
shelter in this port. When she arrived she had buried no less than
thirty-nine of her men, and almost all the rest were so enfeebled by the
scurvy, that only a few of the officers, and three of the fore mast-men
were able to do their duty towards navigating the vessel. Mons.
Bougainville, with the greatest humanity, sent a number of his crew on
board her, by which she was enabled to reach the harbour of Montevideo.
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to give an account of his sailing from
Montevideo to the island of St. Elizabeth, which includes a narrative of
what passed on his interview with the Patagonians, and several other
interesting particulars till he reached the isle of St. Elizabeth.
The Etoile sailed from the Encenada on the 30th of October, and the
Boudeuse on the day following, having on board provisions for ten
months, and soon reached Montevideo, having lost three men in that short
passage, by a boat, in which they were sitting running fowl under the
ship at a time when she was wearing; two other men who were in the boat
were with much difficulty saved, and the boat was recovered.
Early in the morning of the 14th of November, 1767, they sailed from
Montevideo, with a fine gale of wind at north, being in sight of land
till the evening. On the 16th and the five following days, the sea ran
high, and the wind was contrary, so that they were obliged to reef their
top-sails. On the 22d the wind blew a perfect storm, which continued all
the succeeding night in squalls, attended with rain; the Etoile made a
signal of distress, but the violence of the gale would not admit of any
assistance being given them. As the waves became less mountainous, by
the abating of the wind in the morning, Mons. Bougainville hailed the
Etoile, to make enquiry into what damage she had sustained in the late
violent storm; when he learnt that several of her chain plates, and her
fore-top-sail-yard had been carried away, and that she had lost almost
all the cattle which had been purchased at Montevideo: the Boudeuse had
likewise lost most of her cattle, but had sustained no other damage.
The winds were at this time very uncertain, frequently changing during
the remainder of the month, and the currents were so violent, as to
drive the vessels as far as the forty-fifth degree of south latitude.
They now concluded, that they were between thirty and forty degrees from
the coast of Patagonia; and, at length, when they had soundings with a
line of forty fathom, they had sight of Cape Virgins; the same land
which Sir John Narborough and Commodore Anson have distinguished by the
name of Cape Virgin Mary.
As Mons. Bougainville had, during a former voyage, discovered a sunken
rock in forty-eight degrees and a half of south latitude, he avoided
coming too near the shore till he was in forty-nine degrees; the person
who had formerly first seen this rock, imagined it had been a grampus,
and the ship had sailed within considerably less than a mile of it.
It was on the 2d of December that they had sight of Cape Virgins, about
which time they made all the sail possible, as the wind was in their
favour. They now saw a number of Albatrosses, and petrels, the last of
which Mons. Bougainville says are a sign of bad weather, whenever they
are seen. They also beheld penguins, seals, and whales in considerable
numbers. He says, that the skins of the whale appeared to be covered
with small worms, very much like those which are observed to adhere to
the bottoms of old vessels which lie rotting in harbour. Some white
birds, not unlike pigeons, but of a larger size, now perched on the
yards of the Boudeuse.
Soon after they had sight of Cape Virgins they made the land of Terra
del Fuego, and for several successive days, they contended with tempests
and contrary winds. On the 3d of December, the wind blowing favourable
for a short time, they made their best efforts to reach the entrance of
the streights of Magellan; but the wind soon fell to a dead calm, and
thick fogs clouded the whole coast of the country: in a few hours the
breeze again sprang up, but, as by this time night came on, they were
obliged to ply to the windward.
Early in the morning of the 4th the wind being favourable, they again
stood in for land, when hazy weather and rain preventing their having
sight of the coast, they were obliged to keep the open sea; it cleared
up, however, in a short time, when they made another attempt to enter
the streight; but the wind changing, the fog growing thicker, and a
storm ensuing, they were compelled to lay to, between the main land, and
the two shores of Terra del Fuego.
On the 4th of December the fore-sail of the Boudeuse was split by the
fury of the winds, and as at this time they were in no deeper water than
twenty fathom, they determined to scud under their bare poles, lest they
should run fowl of some breakers which lie off Cape Virgins, to the
south south-east.
They now made other fruitless attempts to enter the streight, sometimes
being within sight of the Cape, and at other times at a considerable
distance from it. Mons. Bougainville says that the view of this Cape, as
given in Anson’s voyage, is exact in every respect.
The night of the 5th was spent in standing off and on; and early in the
morning of the sixth they were in sight of Cape Possession, and likewise
of Terra del Fuego. They now took the advantage of a westerly tide, and
tried to get close to the coast of Patagonia. They kept sounding all the
night between the sixth and seventh, not sailing to a greater distance
from the coast than three leagues. What they had gained by plying to the
windward, they lost by the opposition of the currents, and about noon on
the 7th were back in their former station.--What man in his senses, who
reads accounts like these, would hazard the imminent dangers of such
seas, for the honour of having made a new discovery, or the pride of
saying, that he had circumnavigated the globe!
This day they had sight of Cape Orange, which forms the first narrow
pass in the streights. This narrow pass Mons. Bougainville called
_goulet_, which is not improperly translated _gut_. It is rather more
than forty miles from Cape Virgins to this first gut, and the streights,
for this distance, are of different breadths, of seldom less than five,
or more than seven leagues. On the north coast the land is high and
healthy, and has a regular appearance, as far as Cape Possession, in the
bays of which there are several dangerous rocks, opposite to the two
hillocks, to which Sir John Narborough gave the name of the Asses Ears.
In the afternoon, when they had reached the entrance of the gut, though
the wind blew fresh, and all their sails were set, the tide ran with so
great force, that they were driven backwards, instead of advancing in
their voyage.
In the evening the ships were anchored in Possession Bay, and on the
eighth, by the assistance of a strong breeze, they stemmed the tide; and
afterwards, by making different tacks, they got through the first narrow
entrance of the gut, with the wind right against them.
During the preceding night they had observed fires on the shore, and
this morning they discovered a white flag, which the Patagonians had
erected on a rising ground; on which a white flag was likewise hoisted
at the mast-head of each vessel. The flag which these Patagonians had
put up, was one given to them by the Commander of the Etoile, when that
ship lay in Boucault’s Bay, in the month of June 1766, so that it is
pretty evident, that the people were the same. Mons. Bougainville speaks
in very grateful terms of the care these Indians had taken to preserve
the flag.
While the ships were passing the above-mentioned gut, a number of men,
clothed in the skins of beasts, were observed on Terra del Fuego, who
ran along the shore with their utmost expedition, in order to keep pace
with the vessels: they likewise frequently beckoned with their hands, as
if they wished our voyagers to land. The Spaniards say, that the
inhabitants of that part of Terra del Fuego, are less savage in their
manners than most other native Indians. When Mons. Bougainville sailed
from Rio de la Plata, a Spanish ship was on the point of sailing thence,
to convey some Priests, to instruct these people in the doctrines of
Christianity.
The ships having come to an anchor in the afternoon, in Boucault’s Bay,
several officers from each vessel, having fire-arms with them, embarked
in boats, and went ashore at the bottom of the bay. The common sailors
were ordered to remain in the boats, and to keep them afloat: the
gentlemen were no sooner landed, than half a dozen of the natives came
riding up to them, on the full speed. When they were advanced within
fifty yards of the French, they dismounted, and came forward,
pronouncing the word _Shawa_. Having come up quite close, they held out
their arms, and laid them on those of the officers, whom they shook
hands with, and embraced, repeatedly saying _Shawa_, which word was
repeated by Mons. Bougainville and his officers.
An Englishman, on reading the above passage, may be allowed to make a
remark on the singular politeness of these savages, manifested by the
circumstance of _embracing_; but he will not pay so vile a compliment to
the delicacy of the uninstructed Patagonian, as to suppose, that he made
the first advance towards a salute: on the contrary, it is but a piece
of justice due to the superior good-breeding of the French, to conclude,
that they taught the savages that worst rudiment of all politeness, that
most filthy deviation from all decent and manly behaviour, the shocking
custom of men kissing each other! An Englishman of virtuous principles
and refined ideas, would scorn to kiss his own son, whom he had not seen
for a twelvemonth, if the boy but approached to his teens: no! let the
manly shake of the hand, and the generous effusion of the heart from the
lips, be the only expressions of affection, duty or politeness, between
man and man. Let our _embraces_ be reserved for those amiable creatures,
to whom God and Nature have taught us they are due.
The Patagonians appeared to be much pleased with the company of their
new friends; but it was observed, that some of them had a mixture of
fear imprinted on their countenances: this, however, was soon removed by
the hospitality of the officers, who sent to the boats for bread and
cakes, which were as readily devoured as they were chearfully given.
More of the Indians soon approached, among whom were some children. They
expressed no kind of surprise at the sight of their visitants, and
seemed not to be unacquainted with the use of fire-arms, as appeared by
their making a noise which resembled the report of a gun. The good
nature of these people was expressed in all their actions: some of the
French gentlemen being engaged in collecting plants, the Patagonians no
sooner saw what kinds they collected, than they immediately began to
pull up and bring the same sorts. One of them seeing an officer engaged
in this employment, went to him, and pointing to his eye, which had
received an injury, intimated his wish, that some herb might be shewn
him, the virtues of which would cure the disorder: and this was deemed
to be a conclusive proof, that they had an idea of the medicinal virtues
of herbs.
Mons. Bougainville received from these Patagonians a number of skins of
the guanacoe and other beasts, in exchange for a few trinkets, on which
they seemed to set a great value. Some of the gentlemen having red
cloaths on, the natives advanced, and stroked them with their hands,
seeming highly delighted with every thing of that colour; they also made
signs for some tobacco, and as often as any thing was given them, they
cried out _shawa_, in a very loud and disagreeable tone.
A small quantity of brandy being given to each of the Patagonians, they
had no sooner drank it, than they struck their hands repeatedly against
their throats, and blew with their mouths, so as to produce a kind of
trembling sound, at the conclusion of which they had a singular
quivering of the lips.
The evening now advanced, and the gentlemen prepared to return to their
ships, which was no sooner observed by the Indians, than their
uneasiness was expressed in their countenances, and they intimated, by
signs, that they wished them to remain longer, as they expected more of
their brethren. The French, on the contrary, made signs that they would
come again the next day, and bring such articles as the natives had
requested of them.
Mons. Bougainville and his party now walked towards their boats,
accompanied by the Indians, one of whom sung songs till they reached the
coast, and several of them went into the water as far as where the boats
lay, where they seized on all the articles they could put their hands
on; but when they saw they were observed, they made no scruple to return
them.
As the boats were rowing off, many more Patagonians were observed
galloping down to their countrymen; and the crews of the boats now cried
out _Shawa_, so loud that the people on shore could not fail to hear
them.
Mons. Bougainville says, that these Indians were the same which were
seen by the crew of the Etoile, in the year 1765, for one of the seamen
recollected a person among them whom he had before seen. These people
are well made, and appear to be about the height described by other
voyagers. Our author says, that it is the thickness of their limbs, the
largeness of their heads, and the extraordinary breadth of their
shoulders, that make them appear to be of a gigantic race.
The colour of the Patagonians is brown, as is that of all the native
Americans, in whatever climate they are born. Their muscles are strong,
and their nerves well braced; and as their food abounds in juices proper
for the nourishment of the human frame, it is no wonder that they arrive
at their full growth. Their eyes are sparkling, their teeth extremely
white, and their faces round, but rather flat; and many of them are very
comely men. Some of them have whiskers, which grow long, but are very
thin; and they all tie their hair, which is long and black, on the top
of the head; the cheeks of some of them are painted red. Their language
has an agreeable and melodious sound. Our voyagers did not see any of
the Patagonian women; though it was conjectured, that the men intended
to have brought them from a kind of camp, which appeared to be about
three miles distant.
These people wear a piece of leather round the waist, and a kind of
cloak made of skins, which descends to the bottom of the leg, and is
girt round the body; the part which would otherwise cover the shoulders,
is permitted to fall back, so that the greater part of the body is left
naked, though the climate is so cold as, apparently, to require more
covering than the whole which they wear; but custom will harden the
human frame, so as to defy the rigour of the most inclement seasons.
It was in the summer when Mons. Bougainville was on the coast of
Patagonia, yet, he says, there was only a single day on which the
thermometer was observed to rise to ten degrees higher than the freezing
point.
The rest of the dress of the Patagonians consisted of a sort of
half-boots, made of the skin of the horse, and left open at the back
part of the leg. A few of them wore on the thigh a ring made of copper,
two inches in breadth; and the necks of two very young men were adorned
with beads.
Some small knives, of the manufacture of England, were seen in their
possession; which our author very properly concludes were the gift of
Commodore Byron; and their only arms consisted of a twisted gut, in the
two ends of which were enclosed a round pebble; and weapons of that
kind, he says, are used in all that part of the American continent.
Their horses are very poor, and of a small size; and the saddles and
bridles were such as are used by the natives of Rio de la Plata. One of
these people was observed to have gilt nails on his saddle, stirrups
made of wood, enclosed with copper, a bridle made of leather, twisted,
and a compleat Spanish harness.
Their food consists chiefly of guanacoes and vicunnas, and they eat both
the flesh and marrow of those animals. They devour this meat raw, with
great avidity, and carry it with them on their horses. Fresh water being
very scarce in this country, the horses drink the sea water, as do
likewise their dogs, which are both small and ugly.
It was observed, that some of them pronounced _capitan_, _chico_,
_bueno_, and other Spanish words. Mons. Bougainville concludes, that the
Patagonians lead the same kind of life as the Tartars, as they are
always on horseback, traversing immense plains, in pursuit of wild
beasts and game; and he imagines that they also, like the Tartars,
plunder the caravans of travellers; but this remark seems equally cruel
and unjust, from his own account of the singular friendship and kindness
with which they treated himself and his fellow-voyagers. Our author
concludes this part of his narrative by saying, that he has “since found
a nation in the south pacific ocean, which is taller than the
Patagonians.”
Mons. Bougainville tells us, that the soil of this country is extremely
dry, and very much like that of Falkland’s islands: the coast, likewise,
exhibits the same kind of sea-weeds, and shells of similar sorts are
strewed upon the beach. The country produces shrubs, but affords no
woods for shelter.
On the 9th of December, 1767, all the sails of the vessels were set, to
make head against the fury of the tide; but they were obliged again to
come to an anchor, after sailing only three miles. During two whole days
the weather was so tempestuous, that not a boat could put off from the
ships, which was a mortifying circumstance, as great numbers of the
Patagonians were by this time got together, on the spot where they had
conversed with the officers, who were concerned that they were not able
to keep their promise with these friendly people, whose little wants
might have been easily supplied. It appeared, by the help of glasses,
that they had built several huts on the shore, and it was observed, that
some of them were constantly galloping backwards and forwards from this
place to a spot, where it was supposed the main body of them lay.
Early on the morning of the 12th the Boudeuse lost an anchor, by the
parting of the cable; soon after which they set all their sails, and by
the assistance of the ebb-tide, and a favourable wind, they got through
the second gut in the afternoon, and anchored on the north-side of the
isle of Elizabeth.
As they were detained here two days, by tempestuous weather, and
contrary winds, Mons. Bougainville resolved to land on the isle of
Elizabeth, where he met with a few bustards, that were at this time
hatching their eggs, but these birds were so intimidated at the sight of
our adventurers, that they could not approach near enough to have even a
single shot at them. The island produces no wood, but only a kind of
heath, which might supply its place as fuel for the fire. The water of
this place is brackish, and the soil extremely dry. Several places were
likewise observed, which had been marshes, but had become dry, and the
ground on some parts of them were covered with a thin crust of salt. It
was evident that this island was occasionally visited by the Indians, as
the shells of some fish they had eaten were found, near where a dead dog
was lying, and where it was plain that fires had been made.
Our adventurers were now on the point of entering that part of the
streights of Magellan which abounds in woods, and the principal
difficulties were already overcome.
On the afternoon of the 30th the anchors were weighed, and they sailed,
with a violent wind, in a channel between the islands of St. Barthelemi
and Lions, and that of Elizabeth. They were now obliged to coast the
last named island, to steer clear of a number of breakers, with which
the other islands are encompassed. Having sailed beyond Cape Noir, they
observed that the country had a pleasant appearance, being almost every
where covered with woods, which afforded a most delightful prospect to
the eye.
In the evening the weather became suddenly calm and pleasant, so that
Mons. Bougainville pleased himself with the hope of being able to double
Cape Round before the morning; but in this climate the most flattering
appearances are by no means to be relied on; a truth that was fully
evinced in the present instance: for soon after twelve at night the wind
suddenly shifted, and blew most violently, bringing with it storms of
hail, and deluges of rain, while a fog, apparently impenetrable, covered
the whole coast.
The main-sail of the Boudeuse being split by this storm, they
endeavoured to make Port Famine, where they hoped to be sheltered from
the tempest; but this attempt was fruitless; for the violence of the
current was such, that they lost nine miles in as many hours, and were
hurried with amazing rapidity into a large bay, formed by part of the
coast of Terra del Fuego, which Mons. Bougainville called Bay Duelos,
from the name of the officer who was next in command under the Commodore
of the expedition, and whose knowledge and experience are mentioned as
circumstances highly advantageous to the enterprize.
This Bay is described as being very convenient for ships to anchor in,
on account of the westerly winds blowing over the coast. Two small
rivers discharge their streams into the bay, the water of which is
excellent at about a quarter of a mile from the sea coast, though nearer
than that distance it is impregnated with saline particles. The
landing-place is a sandy beach, above which a pleasant meadow stretches
itself to a considerable distance. Behind this meadow the woods raise
their lofty heads, and form a kind of amphitheatre. Our adventurers
traversed a considerable tract of the country, without meeting with any
living animal, except a very few parroquets, bustards, ducks, teals, and
two or three snipes.
Several huts were seen at the mouth of a river, which had been
constructed by twisting branches of trees into the form of an oven. In
these huts were found large numbers of limpets, muscles, and calcined
shells; and the huts themselves appeared to have been recently made. Our
adventurers going some miles up the river, observed the track of human
creatures, and remarked, that the flood came from the east at the rising
of the tide, which they had not before observed in any other part of the
streights.
The seamen were now engaged in cutting wood till the 16th, when the
vessels sailed with a favourable wind, and passed Point St. Anne, which
covers Port Famine, a bay so called, on account of the disastrous fate
of the colony formerly established on its borders by the too adventrous
Spaniards.
Mons. Bougainville observes, that the shores of this country are covered
with wood, and are remarkably steep: those of Terra del Fuego, he says,
are horrible to behold; and that “mountains there are covered with a
blueish snow as old as the creation:”--These are his own words; but with
all submission to the learning and penetration of our ingenious voyager,
we cannot conceive by what kind of intuition, he came to know that the
snow had lain on these mountains more than five thousand years; or even
that it had not fallen within five days of the time he saw it. It is no
breach of Christian charity to observe, that these Frenchmen are as
finished coxcombs in their writings, as they are in every part of their
dress and behaviour. It is hoped that Englishmen will be cautious how
they imitate them in either particular.
There are four bays proper for the anchoring of vessels, between Cape
Forward and Cape Round; and two of these bays are separated by a Cape of
a most singular kind, which consists of petrified shells, laying
horizontally, and rising more than fifty yards above the level of the
sea. Mons. Bougainville took soundings at the foot of this Cape, but a
line of an hundred fathom would not reach the bottom.
As the ships were now becalmed for two hours, our Commodore took this
opportunity of taking the soundings near, and the bearings of Cape
Forward, which he mentions as the most southerly point of land, on the
continent, in the known world, and he fixes its latitude at fifty-four
degrees, five minutes, and forty-five seconds, south. Its surface
consists of two hills, something more than two miles in extent, one of
which is considerably higher than the other. The tops of these hills are
covered with snow, which gradually melting by the warmth of the sun,
supply with perpetual moisture the roots of trees which are fixed in the
crevices of the rock.
Mons. Bougainville and his party landed on a small rock, which barely
afforded room for four persons to stand on, and here they hoisted the
colours of the boat, and repeatedly shouted _Vive le Roi_. Our author
mentions it with an air of triumph, that these rocks now resounded _for
the first time_, with this compliment to the grand Monarche. A striking
instance of the vanity by which the French nation is distinguished!
[Illustration: _Monsieur Bougainville Hoisting the French Colours, on a
small Rock near Cape Forward in the Streights of Magellan._]
Having returned to the ship, and the wind coming about favourable, Mons.
Bougainville sailed in search of a harbour, which received the name of
_French Bay_, where he resolved to take in a quantity of wood and water,
as a supply during their voyage across the great South-Sea. In
consequence of this resolution all the boats were instantly hoisted out,
with a view to begin this necessary business the next morning.
The night proving excessively stormy and tempestuous, it was passed in
fears and apprehensions which baffle all description.
Early in the morning a boat was sent out to sound the mouth of a river
which had been previously denominated _Gennes’ River_, from the name of
a gentleman who was a partaker in the dangers and hardships of this
expedition. As it was low water when the boat reached the shore, her
crew could not land without running her a-ground on a sand; and it was
evident, that the larger boats could only make the shore at high water,
so that their wood and water could be brought on board only once a day.
For these reasons Mons. Bougainville determined to anchor in a small bay
about three miles distant, called after his own name, where he had, in
the year 1765, taken in a loading of wood for Falkland’s islands.
Bougainville bay, to which they now sailed, is surrounded by high
mountains, which secure it from the winds blowing from every point of
the compass, so that the surface of the water is unruffled even by a
single breeze.
Having cast their anchors in this bay, and made fast the vessels by
means of hawsers tied to some trees on the coast, they landed, and found
two Indian huts, constructed of the branches of trees, but they did not
appear to have been lately inhabited. In the year 1765 Mons.
Bougainville had caused a hut of bark to be erected on this spot, in
which he left some trifles, by way of present to such of the natives as
might happen to wander that way; on this hut he had put up a white flag;
but both the presents and the flag had been taken away, and the hut
levelled with the ground.
On the morning of the 18th of December a kind of camp was formed on
shore, by way of guarding the effects which were landed, and protecting
the men who were to be employed in taking in wood and water. Small ponds
were now dug, for the accommodation of those destined to wash the linen,
and the water casks were sent on shore to be repaired. The crew of the
Eagle having, in 1765, cut down many more trees than were wanted for
that vessel, the labour of this task was saved to our present
adventurers, who were likewise happy in finding roads ready made through
the woods, for the convenience of bringing down the timber to the
sea-shore. At this place the remainder of the month was spent in the
necessary employment above-mentioned, and in repairing the ships,
particularly the Etoile, which had so large a leak in her stern, that
most of the hands on board her were fatigued beyond expression, by
standing at the pumps, alternately, night and day.
The astronomer, Mons. Verron, now landed on a little island, which was
denominated the _Isle of Observatory_, from its being a place admirably
calculated for the making astronomical observations; but his labours
were fruitless, owing to the cloudiness of the weather, which is almost
perpetual in this country. At some periods, however, the sun appeared
free from clouds, and melted a part of the snow which had lodged on the
mountains of the main land. Whenever this fine weather happened, the
prince of Nassau, attended by Mons. de Commerçon, a celebrated botanist,
went in search of plants and herbs, and they were very successful in
their researches: but the gentlemen who endeavoured to fish, or to hunt
for animals, met with no such good fortune, for they never catched even
a single fish, nor ever saw any quadruped but one fox, which was killed
by the party employed in collecting the stores.
Mons. Bougainville having formed a resolution of taking a survey of the
coasts of the main land, and likewise of those of Terra del Fuego, he
embarked in his boat, early in the morning of the 22d, accompanied by
two gentlemen, who proposed to sail with him as far as Cape Holland. The
weather was calm and serene at their first setting out; but the wind
soon varied to different points of the compass, and blew a hurricane,
which obliged our adventurers to take shelter in the mouth of a small
river. Having gained the desired port, they waited in the hope that the
storm would abate, till they were almost benumbed with the cold, and wet
to the skin with the rain; they therefore landed, and cutting down some
branches of trees, erected a kind of hut, in order to shelter them
during the night. “These huts (says Mons. Bougainville) serve as palaces
to the natives of these climates; but we had not yet learnt their custom
of living in them.”
It continued to rain incessantly, and was at the same time so cold, that
the gentlemen found their present situation untenable; they therefore
sheltered themselves as well as they could under the sail of the boat,
and kept up a large fire all night, which was tempestuous in a very high
degree. In the morning they hastened to their boat, and returned to the
ship, happy, by that means, to avoid the effects of the growing tempest,
which soon became so violent, that it would have prevented their
returning at all. For two days after this it snowed continually, so that
the mountains were covered, notwithstanding it was now midsummer, and
the sun appeared almost eighteen hours in the four and twenty.
When the storm had subsided, Mons. Bougainville formed the resolution of
going on a second expedition, which he flattered himself would be
attended with more success. Accordingly, early in the morning of the
27th (the barge of the Etoile, and the long-boat of the Boudeuse, having
been armed with swivel guns and muskets) our adventurers embarked with
the prince of Nassau, and two other gentlemen, and sailed for the coast
of Terra del Fuego, where they arrived in about six hours; and finding a
number of huts, which the natives had left in a delightful wood on the
sea-coast, they there sat down, and made a most agreeable repast.
After dinner they coasted the country for a considerable time, and then
crossed an inlet, which Mons. Bougainville conjectures to be a streight
which leads to the sea, at no great distance from Cape Horn. This
conjecture is founded partly on the width of the inlet, which is not
less than six miles, and partly on the observing a prodigious number of
whales in that part of the sea.
When our adventurers had almost reached the opposite side of the inlet,
they saw a number of fires on the coast, and soon afterwards discovered
several of the inhabitants on the point of a bay. Towards this place
they immediately steered; and they had no sooner landed, than Mons.
Bougainville recollected, that these Indians were the same people whom
he had seen on his former voyage in the streights, and whom he had then
distinguished by the name of _Pecherais_, because these savages were
perpetually making use of that word, in the same manner as the
Patagonians did that of _Shawa_.
The number of the Pecherais that had thus assembled was about forty, of
both sexes, and all ages, and they had several canoes in an adjacent
creek. As the evening advanced, Mons. Bougainville could not stay long
with his old acquaintance, but left them, in order to reach an inlet,
where he proposed to spend the night; but as the time would not permit
the accomplishing his wish, he landed on the banks of a river, and
having caused tents to be made of the sails of the boats, and a large
fire to be made, the party spent the night in perfect safety, and much
to their satisfaction.
On the following day it was found that the inlet above-mentioned was an
excellent port, wherein ships might be sheltered against every dangerous
wind; and in which the ground is admirably calculated to afford the best
and safest anchorage. From the elegance and convenience of this bay and
port it received the name of _Beaubassin_ [the beautiful harbour.] Mons.
Bougainville mentions this place as equally convenient for the careening
of ships, and for the taking in wood and water.
That no necessary information respecting so commodious a harbour might
be lost, the Commodore left Mons. Bournard there, to take the most exact
account of every thing that might be thought worthy of notice, and he
was then to return, in the long-boat, to the ships. In the mean time
Mons. Bougainville and a part of his company embarked in the barge, and
rowing to the westward, discovered an island, on the coast of which
several of the natives were employed in fishing. Before the evening our
voyagers arrived at a bay, which received the name of _de la
Cormorandiere_; from a rock which appeared at about a mile distant from
it.
Early in the morning of the 29th Mons. Bougainville departed from this
bay, and sailed between two islands, to which he gave the name of the
_two Sisters_, they are situated about nine miles from Cape Forward.
Soon after this they discovered a mountain, of a conical form, which
they called the _Sugar Loaf_; and, in the course of the day they arrived
at a commodious bay, at the bottom of it there is a most excellent port,
into which falls a very singular cascade. For these reasons the place
received the name of the _Bay and Port of the Cascade_. It is
represented as a place highly proper for taking in wood and water, and
very safe to anchor in.
[Illustration: _A Prospective View of the great Cascade in Cascade
Bay._
_J. June Sc._]
The stream of a small river which seeks its way between a number of
lofty hills, forms this water-fall, which descends perpendicularly down
the side of the rock above a hundred yards. Mons. Bougainville went to
the top of the cascade, and made his remarks on the appearance of the
adjacent country, in some parts of which there are small plains which
produce a kind of spungy moss, and in others the ground is covered with
thickets of wood. The plants and trees are of the same kind as those
which the coast of Patagonia produces; and the whole face of the country
has much the appearance of Falkland’s islands, except the want of trees
at the latter place. On the whole, our author says, that all that part
of Terra del Fuego, from the present spot, to that which lies opposite
Elizabeth island, consists only of large and mountainous islands, the
summits of which are clothed with perpetual snow. Mons. Bougainville
searched in this place to find the traces of inhabitants, but he did not
succeed; and he is of opinion, that the natives of Terra del Fuego
seldom, if ever, depart from the sea-shores, because on those they
obtain the necessaries of life.
Our adventurers remained at Port Cascade, during the night of the 29th,
which was rendered highly disagreeable by incessant rain, and intense
cold; and on the morning of the following day they crossed the streight
with a boisterous wind and a rough sea, which rendered the navigation
dangerous to so small a vessel. The rain kept pouring down almost the
whole of this day, which was employed in viewing the coast, and making
such remarks as may be useful to future navigators. Our voyagers had now
a very narrow escape with their lives, the boat having been nearly
overset in crossing a bay, owing to a mistake of the steersman in the
management of the helm. At length, however, they got safe on board the
Boudeuse, and as the commanding officer, during Mons. Bougainville’s
absence, had shipped every thing that was necessary, preparations were
immediately made for sailing.
They departed from Bougainville Bay in the afternoon of the 31st of
December, 1767, and in the evening came to an anchor in the road of Port
Galant, which is situated at the bottom of Fortescue Bay, where they
were detained no less than three weeks, by such bad weather, as the
inhabitants of these milder climes cannot form an adequate idea of.
On the first of January, 1768, Mons. Bougainville dispatched a party in
a boat, to make remarks on the coast, as far as Elizabeth Bay; and to
take a view of the numerous islands with which this part of the
streights of Magellan abounds. Two of these islands, to which Sir John
Narborough formerly gave the names of Charles and Monmouth, were
distinctly seen from the place where the ships lay at anchor; but those
which he has denominated the Royal Isles, and Rupert Island, were at too
great a distance to be viewed from Mons. Bougainville’s present station.
Notwithstanding the severity of the weather, and the almost incessant
rains, the crew which had been sent out landed on different places, at
one of which it was evident, that some English ships had lately touched;
for on several trees they saw initial letters, and even whole names, cut
in the wood: they also saw many spice-laurel-trees, the bark of which
had been lately taken off, with other plain indications who they were
that had visited the spot, but what put the matter beyond all doubt,
were the words, _Chatham, March, 1766_, which were very legible on a
piece of wood, of that kind which is frequently affixed to pieces of
cloth in the royal marine warehouses of Great Britain.
The astronomer, Mons. Verron, in the mean time, had his astronomical
instruments conveyed to a peninsula, by which the harbour is formed, in
order to make observations, for ascertaining the bearing and distances
of particular capes: but the result of his observations would afford
neither instruction nor entertainment to any but the mere nautical
reader; nor would they be of the least use even to him, unless he was
bound on a voyage to the South Seas, through the streights of Magellan.
The weather was so exquisitely severe on the fourth and fifth of
January, that no pen can describe it, nor any imagination conceive an
idea of it. A violent storm of wind was attended with incessant rain or
snow, and the keenest biting coldness in the air. Mons. Bougainville
informs us that, during this severe weather, he sent out a boat to
search for a convenient anchoring-place on the coast of Terra del Fuego,
and an excellent one was found to the south-west of Charles and Monmouth
islands.
On the 6th the weather was more moderate than it had been for some days
past. In the morning of this day four small boats, with Indians on board
them, were observed at the point of Cape Galant, one of which advanced
towards Mons. Bougainville’s ship, while the rest rowed towards the
bottom of the bay. In the boat which approached the Boudeuse were a man,
his wife, and two children, the former of whom went on board, without
the least apparent sign of fear, leaving the woman and children in the
boat. Soon after this man had gone on board, two Indians from the other
boats followed his example, bringing their children with them.
These people seemed not to express the least surprize either at the
structure of the ship, or at any thing they saw on board her, which our
author deems a proof that, “in order to be capable of being surprized at
the work of art, one must have some fundamental ideas of it.”--There may
be some truth in this observation; but we cannot help resolving the
apparent want of curiosity in these savages into another, and a very
different cause; namely, their having seen the English, or other
vessels, which had visited the streights of Magellan.
The Commodore prevailed on these people to dance and sing, and treated
them with a kind of concert of music. He likewise gave them bread, and
different kinds of meat, all of which they devoured with avidity,
seeming equally pleased with every thing that was given them, and with
every occurrence that passed; nor could they be persuaded to quit the
ship, till several pieces of salt meat had been put into their boats.
Our author calls these happy Indians “troublesome and disgusting
guests.”--One would wonder on what authority he has adopted these
epithets, or how the company of the _savages_, as he calls them, could
be troublesome or disgusting, when they sang and danced, only on being
asked to do so; received with gratitude whatever was given them, and
applied it to the purpose for which it was given.--Mons. Bougainville
calls them “unpolished men;” as if the frippery complaisance of the
court of Versailles could have been expected from these honest tenants
of the woods; whose instructors are plain sense and nature, and whose
God is the God of the Europeans.--In a word, our author writes with an
affected consciousness of superiority, and in the pert restlessness of
stile, that is almost peculiar to the French novelist who would be
thought a philosopher.
The people are clothed with seal-skins, which are by far too small to
cover the whole of the body; and with these skins they make the sails of
their boats, and the coverings of their huts. They are likewise
possessed of a few of the skins of the guanacoe, but our author does not
mention to what use they apply them; though it should seem probable that
they form a part of their clothing.
Mons. Bougainville describes these Indians as thin, short, and ugly; and
that a most offensive smell is the consequence of keeping them company.
The women are still more disagreeable than the men, who do not appear by
any means fond of them. It is the duty of the females to steer the
boats, and to repair any damage that may happen to them; and they are
often obliged to swim after them through the sea-weeds; nor are even
women who have sucking children excused this duty: the child is carried
on the mother’s back, enclosed in the seal-skin that forms her dress.
When the women are on shore their business is to collect shells and
wood; nor do the men even share with them in this employment.
The boats are constructed of the bark of trees, fastened together with
rushes, and the seams are caulked with moss. A fire is constantly kept
in the middle of the boat, on a heap of sand, which is placed to prevent
the burning of the vessel. Their arms consist of bows and arrows formed
of the branches of the berberry bush, which grows plentifully in these
parts. The arrows are pointed with sharp stones, and the string of the
bow is made of the gut of some animal; but they use not these weapons
against an enemy; they are destined only for the destruction of birds,
or other animals proper for the support of life.
Mons. Bougainville says, that these Indians use a kind of harpoon, for
the purpose of striking fish, which is made of bones, it is about twelve
inches in length, pointed at the end, and indented on one of its sides.
The principal subsistence of these people is fish; but it is supposed
that they sometimes catch game, as they have dogs of the sporting kind,
and springes, or nooses, adapted for the snaring of quadrupeds. The
teeth of all the natives are very bad, which our author attributes to
their eating fish when boiling hot, though they do not half boil it
before it is so eaten. They live in huts which have no partition of
rooms, in the middle of which a fire is lighted, that serves the whole
family.
The disposition of these people is of the amiable kind; but their
extreme good nature borders on weakness; they believe in evil genii, and
have priests and physicians, whom they suppose capable of deprecating
the vengeance of their aerial enemies. Mons. Bougainville observes, that
these _Pecherais_ have the fewest conveniences of life of any people he
has ever known; yet they do not repine at their situation, but appear to
be contented with the lot which providence hath assigned them; tho’ they
live in the most inclement climate hitherto discovered in the habitable
globe. Exclusive of the other peculiarities of their fate, they are
fewer in number than any other known race of men; yet this little
society, cut off as it is from all intercourse with the rest of mankind,
is not totally free from the vices common to larger states, as a contest
for dominion exists even among them, and the more powerful are
perpetually labouring to distress the weaker. Thus it is with the poor
_Pecherais_, as with every other community in the universe, that those
who cannot make head against tyranny, must submit to the arbitrary
command, the _sic voleo, sic jubeo_ of the tyrant.
The inclemency of the weather, during the 7th and 8th of the month, was
such, that the crews of the ships could not venture on shore; and though
it was even now the summer-time, the adjacent country was covered with
snow, which also laid on the ship to the depth of several inches.
On the ninth the Indians, who had previously painted their bodies with
red and white streaks, advanced towards the ships; but seeing the boats
go off towards their habitations, all of them, except one, followed the
ships boats, and that went on board the Etoile, where she remained but a
little while, and then followed the others.
The crews of the boats having landed, went to the huts of the Indians,
who seemed by no means to relish this unexpected visit; which was
particularly evinced by the women having all retreated to one hut. The
men invited the French sailors into those huts where the women were not
to be found; and the Frenchmen having accepted the invitation, were
treated with shell fish, which the Indians shucked before they delivered
them to their visitors. The behaviour of the natives was lively, and
they entertained their guests with dancing and singing: they revelled
with uncontrolled delight, when, alas! their mirth was interrupted by an
accident as fatal as unexpected!
A boy, the son of one of the Indians, was suddenly seized with a
disorder which occasioned the most violent convulsions, and spitting of
blood. This child had been on board the Etoile, where the seamen had
presented him with some pieces of glass; and as these Indians are
accustomed to put things of this kind up their nostrils, and into their
throats, it is supposed this youth had taken the same measure, and that
the fatal effects which followed were the consequence of his having
swallowed the glass. It is here proper to remark, that the _Pecherais_
consider the swallowing of substances which resemble glass, as a
preventive remedy against certain disorders to which they are liable.
The lips, palate, and gums of the boy were cut; and as he bled freely,
the Indians conceived an idea that the Frenchmen had violated the rights
of hospitality, and injured him, whom, by all the laws of honour, they
were bound to treat with civility.
This circumstance gave rise to a jealousy and distrust no way favourable
to their European visitors; indeed it appeared, that the Indians
suspected the French to have caused the child’s illness. A linen jacket
having been given to this child by the French, he was stript of it, and
it was thrown at their feet; but it was instantly seized by an Indian,
who did not seem to dread the powers of enchantment.
The child being laid on his back, a conjurer knelt between his legs, and
pressing the body forcibly with his hands and head, uttered a number of
inarticulate vociferations. At repeated intervals during this ceremony
he arose, and opening his hands, which had been before grasped, he blew
in the air with his mouth, as if desirous of driving away some evil
genius. While this business was transacting, an ancient woman bawled in
the ears of the child, so as almost to deafen him with her noise; and
indeed the remedy seemed to be, in the literal phrase, worse than the
disease. The conjurer having retired for some time, returned in a new
dress, and, with an air of triumph, renewed his incantations, but with
no better success than before. His hair had been powdered, and his head
was distinguished by two wings, similar to those with which Mercury is
represented by the painters. The life of the child now appearing to be
even in more danger than before, the French Chaplain hastily baptized
him, unobserved by the Indians.
What a strange medley of ignorance and superstition was all this!--Mons.
Bougainville laughs at the folly of the Indian juggler, while he seems
to speak in an applausive strain of the conduct of the French priest,
which was certainly equally ridiculous with that of the Indian!
Some officers having repaired on board the ship, and acquainted the
Commodore with what was transacting, he went on shore with the Surgeon,
who took some gruel and milk with him. When they came to the spot, they
found that the juggler was assisted by another person habited like
himself, and that the patient had suffered much from their absurd
attempts to relieve him; yet were these attempts continued, without any
complaint on the part of the poor boy.
The affection of the parents, and indeed of the whole company of
Indians, was manifested by floods of tears, and by many other
expressions of grief; and when it was observed, that the Frenchmen
seemed to share in their misfortune, they appeared to be less diffident
of the conduct of the strangers; and at length they permitted the
Surgeon to examine the mouth of the sick youth, which being bloody, had
been repeatedly sucked by his father and another man.
After some time the father accepted the gruel, and permitted his son to
drink some milk, but not till the French gentlemen had repeatedly tasted
it in his presence. The conjurers appeared to be jealous of the Surgeon,
but they could not help confessing the superiority of his abilities. It
was remarked, that while one of these Indian physicians was endeavouring
to drive away the disorder, the other was busily employed in deprecating
that vengeance, which they supposed the visit of the strangers had
occasioned.
In the evening the child appeared to be less pained; but, from many
circumstances, it was thought, that he had swallowed some pieces of
glass. Mons. Bougainville and the Surgeon now went on board, and it is
conjectured, that the boy died about two o’clock the next morning; for
soon after that time loud cries were heard, and, at day-break, the
Indians departed from a place which had been so peculiarly fatal to
them; for the loss of even one member of so small a community, could not
but be an object of great and public concern.
On the 13th and 14th the weather was so bad, that it was impossible to
think of sailing, and on the 15th the vessels were detained by a strong
contrary wind; but on the following day they sailed, with a favourable
breeze, which, however, soon shifted, and prevented their reaching
Rupert island, off which it was Mons. Bougainville’s intention to have
anchored. After a whole day of fatigue and danger they returned to Port
Galant, and anchored again near their former station.
On the seventeenth the storms were more violent than they had ever yet
been; the sea ran to a mountainous height, and the wind blew in such
contrary directions, that the opposing waves destroyed each other. The
storm having in some degree subsided before noon, a loud peal of thunder
was presently heard, after which the winds blew with increasing
violence, and all the elements waged a still more furious war. The
anchors of the ships having dragged, the top-masts and lower-yards were
struck, to avoid the dreadful consequences of the storm. At this time,
however, the shrubs and plants were in bloom, and the trees were covered
with a luxuriance of verdure.
On the 21st and the two following days the weather was extremely windy,
while it rained and snowed incessantly. The night of the 21st indeed was
moderately calm; but this calm served only as the prelude to a storm,
which descended with aggravated fury; such a storm as the oldest sailor
on board had never remembered; but its continuance was by no means
proportioned to its violence.
On the 24th the weather being fine and serene, preparations were made
for sailing, and on the following day the anchors were weighed, and the
vessels got under way. Having arrived off Cape Quod, our Commodore stops
a moment to describe it. Its figure, he says, is very singular,
consisting of craggy rocks, the most elevated of which bear a strong
resemblance to the ruins of ancient buildings. From Bay Galant to this
cape the verdant appearance of the trees takes off, in some degree, that
horror, which would otherwise arise in the mind from the constant sight
of the summits of mountains which are always frozen. After passing Cape
Quod, the face of the country is totally changed, both sides of the
streight exhibiting a prospect of rocks, which are uncovered even with
the slighted layer of earth. The tops of these rocks are cloathed with
eternal snow, while the vallies between them are choaked up with
prodigious quantities of ice, which have the appearance of having been
congealed for a long series of years. So dreadful is the appearance of
this part of the streight, that Sir John Narborough gave it the name of
_Desolation of the South_; and, in fact, it is desolate and dreary
beyond all description.
When Mons. Bougainville’s ship was opposite Cape Quod, the coast of
Terra del Fuego, distant upwards of forty miles, appeared as if
terminated by a projecting cape. There are three capes on the continent,
which our adventurers called _Etoile Cape_, _Boudeuse Cape_, and _Split
Cape_[3], the last of which is so denominated from its figure. The
streight, which in this part is about six miles wide, received the name
of Long Reach[4].
[3] _Cape Fendu_, in the original.
[4] _Longue Rue._
As the evening of the 26th was very fine, Mons. Bougainville determined
to continue his way under an easy sail; but about two hours before
midnight a thick fog came on, the wind arose, and the rain poured down
in torrents, while it became so excessive dark, that no land could be
seen. The situation of the ships was now supposed to be opposite Cape
Monday; and the night was spent in standing off and on shore, in
momentary expectation of some fatal accident.
The land being seen at day-break, they hoisted additional sails, and
proceeded with rapidity, till they reached Cape Pillar, when they had
sight of the main ocean, into which they arrived under a full sail, on
the evening of the same day; having, by the advantage of thirty six
hours fair wind, sailed from port Galant into the great South Sea,
without once coming to an anchor.
Mons. Bougainville was seven weeks and three days in passing the
streights of Magellan, the whole length of which, from Cape Virgin Mary
to Cape Pillar, he computes at about three hundred and forty miles.
Though the passing the streights is a work of some difficulty and
danger, our author recommends it as more safe than the doubling of Cape
Horn, if undertaken between the months of September and April; but,
during the rest of the year, he advises the passing through the open
sea; and he observes, that the lost time in sailing through the
Magellanic Streights, is amply repaid by the conveniences of taking in
wood and water, and the chance there is of the scurvy making less havock
among a crew, when they have repeated opportunities of landing. He adds,
that when he left the streights he had not a single invalid on board
either of his vessels.
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to a recital of the several
circumstances which arose, and the adventures he met with, from this
period till his return to Europe; in which we shall trace him with the
utmost fidelity of the historian; presuming to differ from him whenever
he appears to be mistaken as a writer, or to act on wrong principles as
a man.
Our Commodore now sailed nearly a westerly course, having previously
agreed with the Captain of the Etoile, that he should keep company with
the Boudeuse during the nights, and in the morning of each day should
sail as far as he could to the southward, without losing sight of the
other vessel, in order that the ships might command as extensive a
prospect as possible, by which means it was hoped that some new
discoveries might be made.
On the 30th of January, while the sea ran very high, one of the crew of
the Boudeuse fell over board, and was drowned, notwithstanding every
endeavour to preserve his life.--From this time till the 17th of
February, Mons. Bougainville sailed in search of what is called Davis’s
Land, which was discovered by our countryman of that name in the year
1686; and he says, that if he had followed the directions laid down in
Mons. de Bellin’s chart, he must have sailed over this land.
On the 17th sea gulls were seen; and as these birds do not go above
eighty leagues from land, it was resolved not to alter the course of the
ships for three days; but within this period no land was discovered.
The westerly wind, with a slight variation to the north and south,
prevailed from the 23d of February to the 3d of March, during which time
they had rain and thunder every day, immediately before, or soon after
the sun had reached the meridian. This variation of the wind, from what
is commonly called the Trade-wind, is mentioned by Mons. Bougainville as
an extraordinary circumstance.
Soon after the ships had got clear of the streights of Magellan, an
epidemical sore throat attacked almost every man on board, which was
cured by putting vinegar and red hot bullets into the water-casks, so
that by the end of March, the whole crew were recovered. For several
days after this period such a quantity of bonitos and other fish was
catched, as afforded one meal daily to every man on board.
On the 21st a tunny fish was taken, in the belly of which were a number
of small fish of such kinds, as are known not to swim far out to sea;
whence it was concluded, that land could not be at any great distance;
and on the following day this conjecture appeared to be well founded,
for four very small islands were then discovered, to which Mons.
Bougainville gave the name of _les quatre Facardins_; but as these were
too much to the windward of the ships, they held on their way, steering
for another island, which was almost right a head.
As the vessels advanced towards this latter island, it was observed,
that it abounded with cocoa-nut trees, the fruit of which had a very
tempting appearance. These trees grew on plats of grass, strewed with an
abundance of beautiful flowers; and the rest of the island was clothed
with trees of various kinds. Immense numbers of birds were seen on the
coast, which was therefore supposed to afford a plenty of fish: but the
sea running high, and no harbour being discovered, in which our voyagers
might hope for protection from the fury of its waves, they were
prevented from landing: when they had coasted the island for about two
miles, they had sight of three men, who advanced hastily towards the
shore.
Mons. Bougainville at first imagined that these people were part of the
crew of some European ship, which had been wrecked on the coast; and,
impressed with this idea he gave, the necessary orders for affording
them the wished for relief: but he soon discovered that his conjecture
was ill-founded; for the people retired to the woods, from whence, in a
short time, issued a number of them, supposed to be near twenty, with
long staves in their hands, which they held up with an air of
threatening and defiance. This being done, they retreated to the woods,
in which, by the help of glasses, their habitations were plainly seen.
These islanders were of a copper complexion, and very tall.
Mons. Bougainville makes it a matter of wonder by what means these
people were conveyed to this solitary island, and how they are disposed
of when their increasing numbers render their support impossible on a
spot, the circumference of which, he apprehends, does not exceed nine
miles:--but our philosopher seems to forget that he has but just left
four other small islands; nor did he recollect, when he wrote his
volume, that he was, in a subsequent page, to tell us that he had soon
afterwards discovered a larger island, the inhabitants of which, for any
thing he could tell, might have intercourse with those on the
before-mentioned island. He seems equally ignorant, whether the people
of these islands are or are not possessed of vessels proper for
conveying them from one to the other; and he has forgot likewise, which
appears to be the greatest blunder of all, that there may probably be,
in this neighbourhood, some large continent, hitherto unknown to all our
European navigators. It is possible our remarks may be as absurd as
Mons. Bougainville’s appear to be; but they seem to arise naturally from
the subject. Be this as it may; our Commodore named the above-mentioned
place the _Isle of Lance-bearers_, from the staves, or lances, which the
inhabitants brandished.
During the night between the 22d and 23d they had much rain, accompanied
with violent thunder, while the wind blew almost a tempest. At the dawn
of the morning land was discovered, which appeared to be a regular
level, sufficiently clothed with verdure. Breakers being observed on the
coast, the ships stood out to sea, till the weather becoming more calm,
they might approach the shore with greater safety, which happening
before noon, they then coasted the island, which is shaped like a
horse-shoe, and its inside is filled by the sea.
Some parts of this island produce cocoa-nut and other trees, which
afford a very agreeable shade, but the greater part of it is only a
sand, on which grows no kind of verdure. A number of Indians were
observed in boats, some of them rowing, and others sailing, on the lake
formed by the shape of the island. These people were all naked; and in
the evening large numbers of them were seen on the sea-shore, with pikes
in their hands, like those with which the inhabitants of the Isle of
Lance-bearers were armed.
Night advanced before any proper place was found for the ship’s boats to
land; nor were they more successful in their researches in the morning;
wherefore they held on their course, Mons. Bougainville having called
the place _Harp Island_; the inhabitants of which had the appearance of
being tall, and genteelly made.
Our flippant Frenchman professes to admire the courage of these
islanders, “if they live unconcerned on these little slips of sand,”
which are every moment liable to be sunk in the abyss of an enormous
ocean. He might as well admire the courage of the inhabitants of France,
the redoubted vassals of _Louis le Grand_; who are not less liable to
fall victims to a convulsion of nature, nor under the more immediate
protection of the Almighty, than these harmless tenants of a solitary
island; happily cut off, as they are, from an intercourse with the more
polished barbarians of Europe!
In the evening of the day on which Harp Island was discovered, they had
sight of other land, at the distance of something more than twenty
miles, which had the appearance of being, what it afterwards was found
to be, a cluster of islands, eleven of which were seen, and received the
name of the _Dangerous Archipelago_. Our author conjectures, that they
are more numerous, and observes, that it is dangerous sailing among
them, as they are encompassed with shoals and breakers, through which a
vessel ought to steer with peculiar care.
The ships now stood to the south, and by the 28th of the month were out
of sight of all land. The cluster of islands above-mentioned were first
discovered by _Quirôs_, in the year 1606, and were again visited by
_Roggewein_, in the year 1722, who gave them the name of the
_Labyrinth_.
Nothing material happened from this time till towards the end of March,
when the weather was boisterous and stormy, to a very great degree, for
several days successively; and the scurvy now began to attack several of
the crew. To combat the ill effects of this disorder, every invalid
received, daily, a pint of lemonade, in which was infused a powder,
which had been frequently used with success during the voyage. About
this time they were much in want of fresh water, which was procured by
the distillation of sea-water, according to a process invented by Mons.
Poissonier; and the water thus procured was used in boiling meat, and
making broth. The bread was kneaded with salt-water.
A steep mountain, which appeared to be encompassed by the sea, was
discovered on the second of April, and received the name of the
_Boudoir_, or _Boudeuse Peak_, from that of Mons. Bougainville’s
ship.--Bearing to the northward of this peak, they had sight of land,
which extended farther than the eye could reach.
By this time it was become highly necessary for the ships to put in at
some port, where they might obtain refreshments, and take in a supply of
wood. For the greater part of this day the weather was wholly calm; but
in the evening a breeze sprung up, which conveyed the ships near the
newly-discovered land; but it was thought prudent to stand off and on
for the night.
In the morning they had sight of more land to the northward, but were
not able to distinguish whether it was another island, or a part of that
which they had before seen.
In the night between the 3d and 4th of the month fires were observed on
several places, from whence it was conjectured, that the country
abounded with inhabitants. Just before sunrising on the 4th, it was
discovered that the two lands, which had been supposed to be separate
islands, were connected by a flat country, bending like a bow, and
forming a fine bay. While the ships were standing in towards the land, a
boat was seen coming from the offing, which soon afterwards crossed a
head of the ship, and joined a number of other boats, which had
assembled from various parts of the island. This assemblage of boats was
preceded by one which was rowed by twelve Indians, quite naked, who
advanced towards the side of the ship, and held up some boughs of the
banana tree. Considering this as a token of friendship, our adventurers,
in their turn, endeavoured to express a reciprocal regard.
This being done, the natives rowed alongside the Boudeuse, and a rope
being lowered into the boat, one of them affixed to his branch of the
banana tree, a quantity of the fruit of that tree, and a small pig. This
present was accepted, and, in return for it, Mons. Bougainville gave
them some handkerchiefs and caps; and thus was a friendly intercourse
established with these people.
In a short time upwards of a hundred boats surrounded the French ships,
which were laden with bananas, cocoa-nuts, and various other kinds of
fruit, highly acceptable to the French, who gave in exchange for them a
number of toys, which proved equally acceptable to the Indians.--In
order to carry on this traffic, our voyagers held up such articles as
they meant to give for the fruit, and when the natives were satisfied
with the quantity which was offered, it was let down by the ship’s side
in a net or basket, and the Indians having taken it out, returned their
commodities by the same conveyance; but sometimes the basket was lowered
when empty, and the natives put their effects in it before they had
received the European goods, without seeming to harbour the least
distrust or jealousy of those with whom they dealt; thereby giving the
best proof of the integrity of their own hearts.
When the evening advanced, the ships stood out farther from the coast,
and the natives rowed back to the shore. During the night a number of
fires were seen on the island, at small, and nearly equal distances from
each other, which the French imagining to be illuminations in honour of
themselves, a number of sky-rockets were fired from both the ships, to
return the compliment.
On the morning of the fifth the boats were sent in search of an
anchoring-place, while the day was spent in plying to windward of the
island.
The description which Mons. Bougainville gives of the appearance of this
place, as seen from the ships, is very beautiful. The mountains, though
of great height, are every where clothed with the finest verdure, even
to the extreme point of their most lofty summits: one peak, in
particular, runs up to a most enormous height, tapering gradually as it
rises; yet is it every where clothed with the most beautiful foliage,
forming the appearance of a pyramid adorned with garlands, and carved by
the hand of an ingenious sculptor. The lower lands consist of an
intermixture of woods and meadows, while the coast is a level ground,
sheltered by the mountains, and abounding in cocoa-nut and other trees,
beneath the agreeable shade of which are situated the houses of the
inhabitants.
As Mons. Bougainville coasted the island, he was charmed with the
appearance of a noble cascade, which, falling immediately from the
summit of a mountain, into the sea, produced a most elegant effect. On
the shore, very near to the fall of this cascade, was a little town, and
the coast appeared to be free from breakers. It was the wish of our
adventurers to have cast their anchors within view of such an enchanting
prospect; but, after repeated soundings, they found that the bottom
consisted only of rocks; and they were therefore under a necessity of
seeking another anchoring-place.
Soon after the dawn of day the natives rowed along-side the ships,
bringing with them fowls, pigeons, cloth, shells, chissels, and other
things, which they bartered for ear-rings, and pieces of iron. Both
parties dealt with the same ease and mutual confidence as they had done
on the preceding day; and among the number of visitors were several
women, whose cloaths barely sufficed to hide those charms which could
not fail of attracting the ravished eyes of the seamen. One of the
Indians slept all night on board the Etoile, and seemed not to entertain
a shadow of fear.
The ships plied to windward during the night, and by the morning of the
6th they had nearly reached its most northern extremity, when they
discovered another island; but as the passage between the two islands
appeared to be rendered dangerous by a number of breakers, Mons.
Bougainville came to a resolution of returning to the bay which they had
seen when they first discovered land, where he hoped to find a
convenient anchoring-place, and where, after different soundings, the
ships were at length safely moored.
The natives now put off in their boats, and surrounded the ships in
greater numbers than they had yet done, exhibiting many tokens of
regard, and perpetually crying out _Taio_, which was afterwards found to
signify _Friend_. The strangers were much pleased with some nails and
toys which the officers and sailors gave them. These boats were crouded
with women, whose beauty of face was at least equal to that of the
ladies of Europe, and their symmetry of body much superior. Almost all
of them were naked, the old men and women having taken previous care to
divest them of those coverings, which might otherwise have prevented
their charms from taking the wished effect.
These lovely lasses eyed the sailors with looks the most emphatically
expressive, yet with a degree of timidity, which is at once the
characteristic and the ornament of the sex. It was not, however,
necessary, that these females should give any very plain indications of
their meaning:--the Indian men saved them this trouble, intimating, that
the favours of the ladies might be purchased on easy terms: they even
urged many of the seamen respectively to make choice of a Dulcinea, with
whom he would chuse to retire to the shore; and their gestures appeared
not less extravagant than those of the same people, as recited by Dr.
Hawkesworth, in his account of Captain Cook’s Voyage, of which
circumstance the readers of these volumes is already apprised:--but
Mons. Bougainville goes beyond the Doctor, in the colouring of this
scene. He says that, “even in those countries where the ease of the
golden age is still in use, women seem least to desire what they most
wish for.”
Be this as it may, the sight of these enchanting damsels operated very
powerfully on the passions of the seamen; and, thus situated, it was no
easy matter to keep to their duty, four hundred young fellows, who had
not seen a woman for half a year before.
Mons. Bougainville and his officers did all in their power to preserve
order and decorum, and to prevent any of these tempting creatures from
coming into the ship; but their efforts were unsuccessful:--one of them,
notwithstanding every precaution, got on board, and took her seat on the
quarter-deck, near a hatchway, which was open to give air to some of the
crew who were heaving the capstern. She had scarcely seated herself,
when she let fall a cloth that covered her, with an air of negligence;
and appeared at once the Cyprian goddess, to the ravished eyes of the
spectators. Both seamen and marines now eagerly crouded to the hatchway;
and the capstern was heaved with a chearfulness and expedition never
known on any former occasion.
After some time the officers succeeded in bringing the crew into some
kind of order; though, as Mons. Bougainville confesses, they found it
equally difficult to restrain the ardor of their own passions.--The
Commodore’s Cook, having eluded the vigilance of the officers, got from
the ship, and having selected a mistress from one of the boats, went on
shore with her; where he had no sooner arrived, than the natives crouded
about him, and pulled off all his cloaths. They now examined, with
curious attention, every part of his body, while he stood trembling
under their hands, in continual apprehension of being murdered, or
otherwise abused: but his fears were ill-founded; for they had no sooner
finished the examination, than they gave him back his cloaths, put into
his pockets several things which they had taken out of them, and then
introduced his girl to him, urging, that he would gratify those passions
which had impelled him to come on shore: but alas! their persuasions,
their warmest intreaties, were thrown away;--his fears had destroyed all
ideas of love, nor could even the enchanting beauty of his mistress
recal them: the natives were obliged to take him back to the ship, where
he told Mons. Bougainville, that he had nothing to fear from his anger,
for he had lately suffered such exquisite misery, that all other
punishment would be comparatively light.
Mons. Bougainville and some of his officers now went on shore to take a
view of the watering-place, and were no sooner landed, than the natives
flocked around them in prodigious numbers, regarding them with looks of
inexpressible curiosity: some of them, bolder than the rest, came and
touched the French, and put aside their cloaths, to find if they were
formed like themselves. The happy islanders, who wore no kind of arms,
testified great pleasure at this visit of our voyagers.
A person, who appeared to be the principal man among the Indians, took
Mons. Bougainville’s party to his house, where they found an old man,
the father of the Chief, and several women. These last paid their
compliments to the strangers, by placing their hands on their breasts,
and frequently repeating the word _Tayo_. The old man was a truly
venerable figure, whose long white beard and hair added dignity to his
person, which was exceedingly graceful and well formed. He had none of
the decrepitude of age, no wrinkles on his face, and his body was
nervous and fleshy.--The behaviour of this man was wholly different from
that of all the rest of his countrymen; for he expressed no sign of
admiration or curiosity, left the room without returning the compliments
of his visitors, and with an air that testified his uneasiness at their
arrival. Mons. Bougainville even imagines, that he feared that a new
race of men coming to settle on the island, might disturb that happy
repose in which its inhabitants had hitherto lived.
The house of the Chief was about twenty feet in width, and eighty in
length, and covered with thatch, from which hung a cylinder, above a
yard long, formed of the twigs of the ozier, and adorned with black
feathers. Two wooden figures were observed, which Mons. Bougainville
says were idols, and that one of them was the god of the natives; but in
this he must be certainly mistaken, as it appears from the account since
published, that the inhabitants of Otaheite are not idolaters:--but from
almost every part of his volume it is evident, that he has made his
observations very hastily, and given a decisive opinion on subjects
which he did not understand, and which he took very little pains to
examine.
The figure which our author took for the god, was fixed upright against
one of the pillars of the house, and over against it stood the other,
which he calls the goddess, leaning against, and fastened to the reeds
which form the walls of the house. These figures stood on pedestals of
hard, black wood, about two yards high, one yard in circumference,
shaped like a tower, hollowed out, and carved.
The Chief having directed his guests to seat themselves on a grass-plat
in the front of his house, he presented them with a collation,
consisting of broiled fish, water, and fruit. While they were regaling
themselves he produced two collars, formed of oziers, and adorned with
shark’s teeth, and black feathers. These collars, which resembled the
prodigious large ruffs worn by the French in the reign of Francis the
First, were put on the necks of Mons. Bougainville, and a gentleman of
his party. The Chief having likewise presented our author with some
pieces of cloth, the French were about to take their leave of this
hospitable Indian, when one of them found that his pocket had been
picked of his pistol; on which a complaint was made to the Chief, who
immediately reprimanded several of his houshold, and would have searched
them all; but this the Commodore would not permit, contenting himself
with intimating to the Chief, that the weapon which had been stolen
would kill the thief.
Mons. Bougainville was attended to the coast by the Chief and his whole
family. As the company passed along, they observed an Indian, remarkable
for the fine proportion and symmetry of his figure, reclined at the foot
of a tree, who prevailed on the French to sit down by him, and sung them
an excellent song, to the slow music of a flute, which the other Indian
blew with his nose. Our author says this song was, doubtless, of the
anacreontic kind, but he assigns no reason for this opinion. This is
described as a most delightful scene, and well worthy the pencil of the
limner.
The company now proceeded to their boats, in which a few of the Indians
embarked, and went to spend the evening and sleep on board. The
islanders seemed to be under no kind of restraint, but to have the
fullest confidence in the hospitality of the French, who treated them in
a very elegant manner, and concluded the evening with a band of music,
and a display of fire-works; at which, however, the Indians, seemed more
terrified than delighted.
The Chief went on board Mons. Bougainville’s ship the following day, and
took with him a present of some fowls and a hog: he likewise gave a full
proof of the integrity of his heart, by returning the stolen pistol; but
this is no wonder; it may hold as an almost unfailing maxim, that “the
generous are always just; that the knavish part of mankind are to be
found among the sordid and avaricious.” The generous soul disdains every
act of meanness; and it is certainly an act of meanness to detain the
property of another. Doubtless, the history of mankind will afford some
instances which militate very strongly against this argument; but it
will usually be found, that when the man of liberal sentiments has
detained what he knew to be the property of another, such detention has
arisen from the extreme penury of his own circumstances.--We have
instances of robberies being committed on the highway, and the money
returned, years after the perpetration of the fact. In such a case,
surely, the robber must be allowed to have possessed an honest heart,
even while he was violating the laws of his country; that his principles
were just and generous; and that what he conceived to be a case of
extreme necessity; the support of his sinking credit, and the preserving
a beloved, an amiable woman, and the dear pledges of her love, from
inevitable poverty and ruin, was the occasion of his taking so
unwarrantable a step. The reader will excuse this digression, in favour
to the writer, who conceived that it arose naturally from the subject.
The name of the Chief, whose conduct gave rise to the above reflections,
was ERETI, who remained on board several hours, and then went on shore
with Mons. Bougainville, who by this time had made the necessary
preparations for landing the sick, and filling the water casks.
As soon as the boats had landed, the Commodore fixed on a spot on the
borders of a rivulet, where he gave orders for the forming of a camp,
for the protection as well of the sick men and their attendants, as of
the waterers, and others, whose business might call them on shore.
For some time Ereti beheld the marines under arms, and regarded the
preparations which were making to form the camp, without any apparent
signs of uneasiness, and then took his leave. In a few hours, however,
he returned, bringing with him his father, and some others of the most
eminent men on that part of the island, who remonstrated with Mons.
Bougainville on the impropriety and injustice of his taking possession
of their country; at the same time intimating, that his people were
welcome to be on the island during the day, for any period of time he
might think proper, but insisting, that the party should return on board
every night. The Commodore, on the contrary, as peremptorily insisted
that he would form the encampment, and endeavoured to convince the
Indians how necessary it was that he should do so, in order to procure
wood and water, and to have the better opportunity of trafficking with
the islanders.
The Indians now retired, and held a conference on the occasion, at the
close of which Ereti came to Mons. Bougainville, and desired to know
whether the French proposed to take up their residence on the island for
life; and, if not, how long they intended to stay.--In answer to this,
the Commodore put eighteen small stones into his hands, intimating, that
he should remain there only so many days. Hereupon a third council was
held, the result of which was, that an elderly man, of great authority,
was deputed to wait on the Commodore, and endeavour to prevail on him to
depart in nine days; which however he positively refused to do, and thus
the matter ended.
From this period the islanders became again easy and happy. Ereti
complimented Mons. Bougainville with the use of a large building, that
had been erected on the side of the rivulet, for the purpose of laying
up the Indian boats, which were instantly removed, at the command of the
Chief. Under this building tents were put up for the accommodation of
the sick, and other tents for various uses. A sufficient number of
muskets were carried on shore, to arm thirty marines, all the workmen,
and even the invalids, in case of necessity.
Mons. Bougainville passed the first night on shore, in company with
Ereti, who added his supper to that of the Commodore, invited a few
select friends to partake of the repast, and gave orders that a croud of
Indians, whose curiosity had brought them to the spot, should be
dispersed. He then desired to see some fire-works, which he beheld with
a mixture of pleasure and astonishment. Late in the evening he sent for
one of his wives, who slept in the tent allotted to the use of the
Prince of Nassau. Mons. Bougainville says, that this woman was ugly and
old; but how does he know that she was not the only wife of Ereti? It
does not follow, because a number of women were seen on the first visit
at the house of this Chief, that he was married to them all. They might
be daughters, sisters, aunts, nieces, or cousins, for any thing that
could be known to the contrary, by people who had not learnt three words
of the language of the natives.
The camp was compleated on the following day, and the building entirely
enclosed, except at one entrance, where a guard was constantly
stationed. None of the Indians were admitted into this building but
Ereti, and his friends of both sexes. A croud of people were constantly
about the place, but they made way for any one who had permission to
enter, on the motion of a small stick which a Frenchman held in his
hand. To this place the natives assembled from all quarters, bringing
poultry, hogs, fish, fruit, and cloth; in exchange for which they
received buttons, beads, tools, nails, and trinkets of various kinds, on
which they appeared to set a high value.
These benevolent islanders vied with each other which should oblige
their visitors most; and when the French were observed collecting
shells, and gathering plants, a number of women and children instantly
employed themselves in the same manner, bringing the same plants, in
great abundance, and variety of fine shells.
Mons. Bougainville now applied to Ereti, for information where he might
cut wood, and was directed to the mountains, where the hard wood grows,
the low lands producing only a gum-tree, and fruit-trees of various
kinds. The Chief even marked the trees which were proper for cutting,
and pointed out the side on which they should be felled.
The islanders assisted our adventurers in cutting the wood, and carrying
it down to the boats, and likewise helped them to fill water, and roll
the casks to the coast. For these services they received a number of
nails, proportioned to the industry they had exerted: but it was
necessary for the French to be constantly on their guard, to prevent
their thieving the articles which were brought on shore; nor were even
their pockets safe from the depredations of these people, who, Mons.
Bougainville says, are as ingenious in the art, as the pick-pockets of
Europe; which is certainly no great compliment to the people of
Otaheite.
Mons. Bougainville supposes, that these islanders do not rob each other,
as none of their effects were kept under locks and keys; and he
attributes their frequent attempts to rob the French to an insatiable
curiosity for articles which they had never before seen. Guards were
stationed, and patroles appointed, to protect the French property
notwithstanding which, the islanders found means to steal several
things, and they even pelted the guards with stones. These free-booters
hid themselves in a marsh behind the camp, which was overgrown with
reeds: but a part of this marsh was cleared, by order of the Commodore,
who directed, that when any more thieves were seen, they should be fired
at. Ereti even hinted, that this measure was necessary; but, pointing to
his own house, seemed very solicitous that Mons. Bougainville would not
fire that way. Orders were now given for some of the ships boats to
anchor before the camp, and point their swivel guns so as to protect it.
The article of thieving excepted, every other intercourse between the
French and Indians was carried on in the most harmonious manner. The
seamen made several incursions into the island, unarmed, sometimes in
small parties, and sometimes singly: when the natives invited them into
their houses, gave them provisions, and presented the young damsels to
their embraces. On these occasions the hut was instantly crouded with
numbers of both sexes, who surrounded the young lovers, and eyed them
with looks of the most intense curiosity. Leaves and flowers were
immediately strewed on the ground, and while some played on flutes,
others sang a kind of song sacred to the Cyprian goddess.
Mons. Bougainville’s picture of these scenes is rather over-charged; but
the pen of the historian should be guided by truth. “Here Venus (says
he) is the goddess of hospitality; her worship does not admit of any
mysteries, and every tribute paid to her is a feast for the whole
nation.”
The people of Otaheite seemed astonished at the embarrassment of some of
the Frenchmen on these occasions: but Mons. Bougainville is of opinion,
that there was not a man of the whole crew who had not got the better of
the European delicacy, by making a public sacrifice at the altar of
Venus. If this opinion be well founded, the poor Cook, whose case has
been related, must have wonderfully recovered of his fright, before the
Commodore left the island.--Surely these intrepid subjects of Louis the
Fifteenth must have been blest with the most vigorous constitutions in
the universe, or have been cursed with the most unblushing impudence of
face! That many of the crew should have got the better of all regard for
decency, is not to be wondered at; but that there should not be one
Frenchman out of four hundred who could resist the temptation of thus
publickly prostituting himself, is very astonishing. But vanity is
constitutional in a Parisian, and rather than not sacrifice at her
shrine, he will be content to rob himself of his own good name.
It may fairly be concluded, that if _every_ man gave these public proofs
of his prowess, the Commodore himself made _one_ of the number, a naked
spectacle to the laughing Indians! But perhaps Mons. Bougainville was
honoured in the embraces of one of Ereti’s wives; in which case it is
presumed, that the fond couple were surrounded only by the royal family,
and the lords and ladies of the Court. Doubtless, an extraordinary band
of music must have been provided on these solemn occasions, and the best
nose-flute-players on the island must have been engaged as performers.
What pity it is that our gallant philosophical, nautical, warlike
Amoroso, has omitted a description of one of these charming scenes! A
print of it, too, would have done honour to some ingenious engraver of
Paris, and it would doubtless have promoted the sale of a work so
admirably calculated for the meridian of Versailles. The doating monarch
would have subscribed liberally, while the lascivious Barré would have
extolled to the very skies the writer’s happy talent at description. Who
knows too, but that the French Ambassador might have introduced the work
among the circle at St. James’s; and thus have promoted the cause of
libertinism so far, that not one of the nobility of the succeeding
generation should be the real child of his reputed father.
To be serious; this is strange stuff, even for a French historian to
write; nor would we have copied it, but that our engagements to the
public compelled us to give Mons. Bougainville’s Voyage; and Mons.
Bougainville must be answerable for all its faults.
Happy ought Englishmen to think themselves; particularly those of the
middling and lower classes, among whom marriage is still held in some
sort of esteem. Long may it be so held, for the honour of legal love,
the security of property, and the sake of those tender ties, by which
relations are held in the bond of friendship!
Hail wedded love, mysterious law, true source
Of human offspring, sole propriety
In Paradise of all things common else.
By thee adult’rous lust was driven from men,
Among the bestial herds to range; by thee
Founded in reason, loyal, just, and pure,
Relations dear, and all the charities
Of father, son, and brother, first were known.