SCENES AROUND SCAPA FLOW
[Illustration: VIEW LOOKING SOUTH FROM HOUTON BAY.]
SCENES AROUND SCAPA FLOW
KIRKWALL
"Voir Kirkwall, et mourir," a French naval officer remarked to me
when visiting Scapa Flow. Without inquiring too closely as to whether
there might not have been some ironical "double-entendre" in his
apparent admiration of the capital of the Orkneys, it was certainly
the Orcadian "Mecca" of the Grand Fleet, and never in its history has
it known such activity and prosperity as during the five years of war.
A sleepy little town of four or five thousand inhabitants, it was
suddenly called upon to assist in supplying the needs of a floating
population of close on 100,000 men, and its narrow main (and only)
street, "where two wheelbarrows tremble when they meet," bustled with
unwonted activity--messmen from the ships loading provisions, naval men
and officers engaged in an afternoon's shopping and sightseeing, with
an occasional motor lorry or car trying to thread its way amongst the
traffic.
Kirkwall, as will be seen from the map, is approached from the Flow by
way of Scapa Pier, whence it is a walk or drive of about a mile and a
half to the town.
The little hamlet of Scapa, incidentally, from which the Flow takes
its name, assumed importance during the war as a seaplane station, and
is the scene of an old custom long forgotten, which is related rather
amusingly in a volume on Orkney by a Rev. John Brand, dated 1701. He
writes: "In Scapha about a mile from Kirkwal to South-West, it is said
there was kept a large and ancient Cup, which they say belonged to St.
Magnus, King of Norway, who first instructed them in the principles of
the Christian religion and founded the Church of Kirkwal, with which
full of some strong drink their Bishops at their first landing were
presented; which, if he drank it out, they highly praised him, and made
themselves to believe, that they should have many good and fruitful
years in his time." He adds rather regretfully: "The Countrey to this
Day have the tradition of this, but we did not see the cup; nor could
we learn where it was." The fact that the Highland Park Distillery
(the most northern distillery in the British Isles) is on the upper
Scapa road rather tends to confirm the legend!
[Illustration: LOADING STORES AT SCAPA PIER.]
[Illustration: WIDEFORD HILL AND THE "PEERIE SEA."]
Conveyances known locally as "machines" (they do not speak of traps or
chars-à-bancs in Orkney) are always available to convey one to Kirkwall
from the Pier, and anyone who has travelled over that bumpy road in one
of these vehicles will not forget the experience!
[Illustration: KIRKWALL HARBOUR FROM THE CATHEDRAL TOWER.]
Arrived in Kirkwall and suitably refreshed (let me recommend the Ayre
Hotel of many pleasant memories), the most striking building which
meets the eye, and which dominates the town, is the Cathedral of St.
Magnus. Kirkwall, as its name signifies (Kirkevaag or Kirk Voe), is the
bay of the church, although the original church from which the town
takes its name was not that of St. Magnus. Founded before the middle of
the twelfth century, it is a very fine example of Gothic architecture,
which, fortunately, owing to its remoteness, escaped the zeal of the
Reformers, and remains to-day a stately witness of the Norse warriors
of old, who played such a prominent and adventurous part in the history
of Orkney. Near by are the Bishop's and Earl's Palaces, both also
eloquent relics of the days when feasting and fighting were the main
preoccupations of the Norse Jarls, whose exploits are recounted so
graphically in the "Orkneyinga Saga."
[Illustration: ALBERT STREET, KIRKWALL.]
[Illustration: ST. MAGNUS CATHEDRAL FROM THE EARL'S PALACE.]
Kirkwall during the war was an examination base, and hundreds of
craft of all nationalities passed through the harbour to be searched
for contraband of war. Later, after the Armistice, it became the
headquarters of our own and the American Mine Clearance Service, and
the advent of four or five thousand American sailors contributed
further to the prosperity and enlivenment of the town. Baseball, for
example, and the "jazz," had not hitherto penetrated so far north as
Orkney, and dancing soon became almost as great an obsession amongst
the fair maidens of Kirkwall as it was further south.
To-day Kirkwall is again outwardly the same quiet town it was prior
to 1914, but the infusion of new ideas and modes of life, which was
inevitable from contact with so many of our own and American people,
has produced many changes of mental and social outlook, and in no
town will the years 1914-1919 be remembered for their historical
significance more than in the capital of the Orkney Islands.
[Illustration: OLD HOUSES IN KIRKWALL.]
STROMNESS
Stromness, situate at the western extremity of the mainland, is
next to Kirkwall in size, and is in many respects the rival of the
capital. Its position did not give it the same importance as Kirkwall
during the war, although it was a convenient centre for some of the
subsidiary activities of the Base. For a considerable period it was
the headquarters of the Western Patrol, and the various building
operations, including the wharf at Lyness and the Air Stations at
Houton and Scapa, were supervised from the office of the Civil Engineer
at Stromness. The accessibility of Stromness to the sea through
Hoy and Burra Sounds, and the probability of submarine attacks on
the Fleet through these channels, rendered defensive measures an
imperative necessity, and at the time of the Armistice a triple series
of boom defences, with the additional safeguards of sunken ships and
minefields, rendered ingress a practical impossibility. One of the
most remarkable of these defences was the Clestron Barrier between
the island of Graemsay and Clestron. This was constructed of conical
frameworks of steel rails, which were placed in position with their
bases resting on the bottom of the channel, an operation rendered the
more difficult by the tides which sweep around these shores, which give
Stromness its name (the ness of the "strom" or current).
[Illustration: STROMNESS FROM THE SEA.]
Stromness is a picturesquely situated little town, with its straggling
houses, rising straight from the water's edge, and its rugged coast
scenery. The traveller from Kirkwall, after traversing fifteen miles of
somewhat monotonous road, is suddenly confronted with the quiet town
lying below him in a landlocked bay, with the heights of Hoy rising
beyond and adding grandeur to the beauty of the scene.
[Illustration: T. Kent. HOUTON BAY AIR STATION.]
Amongst the quaint houses in its zigzag mile-long street is one of
noteworthy interest, being the house in which Sir Walter Scott wrote
the notes of his Orkney novel, "The Pirate," most of the characters
in which are drawn from people who actually lived in Stromness.
[Illustration: THE CLESTRON BARRIER, STROMNESS.]
Stromness was a popular "week-end" resort for those who, during the
war and afterwards, were fortunate enough to get leave, there being
an excellent and modern hotel, with good fishing in the lochs, and a
nine-hole golf course in the near neighbourhood. Close at hand, too,
are many places of interest to the historian and antiquarian, which are
briefly noticed in the following pages.
THE STANDING STONES OF STENNIS
"The Standing Stones" are the most noteworthy antiquarian relic in
the county of Orkney, and their origin, like those of Stonehenge, is
wrapped in obscurity. They were probably erected by the early Celtic
inhabitants of Orkney, possibly as sacrificial spots, and they were
undoubtedly standing when the Norsemen overran the islands in the ninth
century. Standing on the narrow little peninsula in the midst of the
Loch of Stennis, and seen as the shadows of evening are falling, they
are impressive in their lonely solemnity, and insensibly carry one back
to the dawn of history in these islands--to days of sacrificial rites
and strange matrimonial ceremonies, to the worship of Thor and Woden.
[Illustration: THE STANDING STONES OF STENNIS.]
[Illustration: THE RING OF BRODGAR.]
[Illustration: THE TUMULUS OF MAESHOWE.]
[Illustration: THE ENTRANCE TO MAESHOWE.]
MAESHOWE
A mile or two from Stennis stands the celebrated Tumulus of Maeshowe.
This is a conical-shaped mound rising to a height of about 35 feet, and
surrounded by a moat. The interior is approached by a long, narrow
passage, leading into a central stone chamber about 15 feet square,
from which a number of crypts or cells branch off at the sides. On
the walls are inscribed a number of runes, of which, as one humourist
observed, "several professors have given as many translations,
apparently all different." There is certainly considerable diversity
of opinion as to the age and origin of the mound, but it seems to be
generally accepted that it was originally the chambered tomb of some
chieftain, dating from early Celtic times.
[Illustration: A WINDING ROAD IN HOY. (Pegal Burn.)]
HOY
The island of Hoy lies on the western side of the Flow, and, as most
of the Base ships were anchored in its vicinity, it was the island
which became the most familiar to and frequented by those going to the
"beach" for recreation and exercise. The names of Long Hope, Lyness,
Melsetter, North Ness, are as familiar to the many thousands of naval
men who spent so long at Scapa, as are the Strand and Charing Cross
to Londoners. Fortunately, Hoy is perhaps the most interesting and
picturesque of the Orkney Islands, and some of its hill and cliff
scenery is amongst the finest in Great Britain, whilst the sportsman,
the botanist, and the geologist can find ample material for their
various pursuits.
Hoy will probably show more permanent evidences of the "naval
invasion" of Scapa Flow than any of the other islands, as it has now
become, at Lyness, the headquarters of the permanent peace-time naval
establishment at Scapa Flow. At Lyness there are the makings of a
miniature dockyard, with a wharf accommodating vessels of 30 feet
draught, slipway, storesheds, oil, fuel, and petrol depôts, and a
reservoir for fresh water supply, which, in the event of war, would be
at once available for meeting the requirements of the Fleet. Such an
establishment would have been of immense value at the outbreak of the
present war, and, indeed, had been contemplated for some years prior to
1914.
[Illustration: WARD HILL AND GRAEMSAY ISLAND FROM THE SEA.]
WARD HILL, HOY
Ward Hill is the highest hill in Orkney (1,556 feet), and from its
summit on a clear day a magnificent panorama of the Orkney Islands
unfolds itself, lying at one's feet like "the scattered fragments of
some ingenious and parti-coloured toy map," whilst on the further side
of the Pentland Firth the coast of Scotland is clearly defined as far
as Cape Wrath. During the war the whole of the Grand Fleet could be
seen in the Flow, and it seemed hard to realise that those small and
insignificant specks as they appeared in the distance lay as a "sure
shield of Empire" between our nation and the domination of the German
Eagle.
[Illustration: WARD HILL: THE ROAD TO RACKWICK.]
[Illustration: WARD HILL FROM THE EAST.]
[Illustration: THE OLD MAN OF HOY.]
THE OLD MAN OF HOY
The lonely pillar of rock standing well out on the western coast of
Hoy is one of the best-known "sights" of Orkney. It stands 450 feet
above the sea (as high as St. Paul's Cathedral) in one of the most
inaccessible parts of the coast, but the scene repays the hard walk
over the moors which a visit to the rock entails. The photo happens to
show the features of the "Old Man" quite distinctly.
THE DWARFIE STONE
The Dwarfie Stone is one of the strange relics of antiquity which
abound in Orkney. It is a mass of sandstone about 30 feet in length,
14 feet in breadth, and from 2 to 6 feet in height, and lies in a
lonely valley at the foot of Ward Hill. It has been hollowed out on
either side of the entrance door shown in the photo into two chambers,
each with a stone bed, with a hole in the roof to serve as a window or
chimney. Nothing appears to be known of the origin or purpose of the
stone, but a rather quaint theory is brought forward in an old book on
Orkney (1701), as follows:
"Who hewed this stone, or for what use it was, we could not learn,
the Common Tradition among the People is, That a giant with his
wife lived in this Isle of Hoy, who had this stone for their
Castle. But I would rather think, seeing it could not accommodate
any of a Gigantick stature, that it might be for the use of some
Dwarf, as the name seems to import, or it being remote from any
House might be the retired Cell of some Melancholick Hermite. The
stone also may be called the Dwarfie Stone, per Antiphrasin or by
way of Opposition it being so very great."
[Illustration: THE DWARFIE STONE.]
Sir Walter Scott refers to the stone at some length in his novel "The
Pirate," the scene of which is laid in the Orkneys and Shetlands, and
which will be found of interest to the student of Orkney traditions and
history.
LYNESS
[Illustration: THE NEW STONE WALL AND PIER, LYNESS.]
[Illustration: CROFTS NEAR LYNESS.]
Following the rough road on the east coast of Hoy from Ward Hill, by
way of Pegal Burn, one reaches Lyness, in pre-war days a few scattered
crofts, and now the Naval Base in Orkney. The stone wharf, built by
Messrs. Kinnear and Moodie, of Glasgow, is now only just nearing
completion, and the other buildings (torpedo and paravane depôts,
petrol tanks, store sheds, etc.) were not available in time to be of
much value during the war, but they will be ready for the next! Some
idea of the difficulties with which the contractors had to contend will
be realised, when it is remembered that every ton of material had to
be brought by rail and sea from the south, during a time when, owing
to the submarine menace and the shortage of shipping, it was often
months before delivery of stores could be made. The work was frequently
completely held up by non-delivery of a machine or replacement, whilst
the difficulties of recruiting labour in such a desolate spot as the
Orkneys were a great handicap. On many days work had to be suspended
owing to gales, whilst in winter operations were only practicable
during the few hours of daylight available. The works, incidentally,
were responsible for the introduction of the first train into Orkney!
[Illustration: EXCAVATIONS AT LYNESS IN CONNECTION WITH THE BUILDING OF
THE WHARF.]
[Illustration: THE FIRST TRAIN IN ORKNEY.]
CROCKNESS
[Illustration: SUNSET OVER THE MARTELLO TOWER, CROCKNESS.]
Crockness lies a little beyond Lyness, to the south, and is chiefly
noteworthy for its Martello Tower, which, with that at Hackness on
the further side of Long Hope Bay, was erected during the Napoleonic
Wars, and completed in 1818 as a protection for the harbour. It was in
Long Hope Harbour that merchantmen bound for America and the Continent
assembled to await convoy, and it is curious that exactly one hundred
years later history has repeated itself, and that during the war just
concluded the same system of convoy was adopted from Kirkwall, into
which harbour all neutral vessels were sent for examination and convoy.
It is rather characteristic of our nation that both the Martello Towers
and the works at Lyness were completed some time after the Napoleonic
Wars and the European War respectively were over!
[Illustration: THE MARTELLO TOWER, CROCKNESS.]
The Towers are very solidly built structures, with gun mountings on
top, and underground cellars for stowing ammunition, etc., but they
have never apparently been of any practical use. It is related that it
was not until the present war that a monthly payment, which originated
in 1818, to a crofter family for certain services rendered to the
original occupants of the Tower, was at length discontinued, when it
was discovered that the Tower had been disused for some generations!
but the accuracy of the story cannot be vouched for.
[Illustration: VIEW LOOKING THROUGH THE MARTELLO TOWER, CROCKNESS,
TOWARDS LONG HOPE.]
LONG HOPE
Continuing by the road from Crockness, the village of Melsetter is
passed on the road to Long Hope.
At Melsetter is the very fine residence of Mr. and Mrs. Middlemore,
whose hospitality was always open to the many naval officers who used
to call there. The visitors' book among many famous names contains
those of the King and the Prince of Wales, and Admirals Jellicoe and
Beatty. A William Morris Tapestry in one of the reception rooms is
noteworthy as recording the exploits of "Sir Gawaine of Orkney," one of
the Knights of the Round Table.
[Illustration: MELSETTER--ON THE ROAD FROM LYNESS TO LONG HOPE.]
Long Hope Bay during the war was the headquarters of the auxiliaries of
the Grand Fleet, and never in its history were so many vessels of such
varied types assembled in the harbour. The village of Long Hope, where
there is a good pier, naturally became much frequented by officers and
men from the ships, and eventually a commodious Y.M.C.A. was erected,
which did much useful work. "Tea on the beach" was always a pleasant
change from ship life (and tinned milk!), and the Post Office at Long
Hope became a favourite rendezvous for informal tea-parties. (Possibly
the attractions of the fair postmistress and her sister had something
to do with this!)
Incidentally, a writer on Orkney remarks that "there is a considerable
Celtic element in the population of South Walls brought by some
seventy-one Highlanders, who, evicted from Strathnaver to make room
for sheep, settled in the parish between 1788 and 1795, and who have
thrown in a dash of good looks not so common in other parts of the
group." The comment seems hardly fair to the rest of Orkney, however
true it may be with regard to Walls.
[Illustration: LONG HOPE PIER AND POST OFFICE.]
[Illustration: LONG HOPE HOTEL.]
The inn at Long Hope (where the King stayed on one of his visits to
the Fleet) was transformed into the office of the Admiral Commanding
the Orkneys and Shetlands, and a wireless station was erected
alongside. It has now (1921) reverted to its pre-war condition, much to
the gratification of the Long Hope inhabitants.
[Illustration: KIRK HOPE, SOUTH WALLS.]
[Illustration: CANTICK LIGHTHOUSE, SOUTH WALLS.]
KIRK HOPE AND CANTICK
The road from Long Hope leads past the Y.M.C.A. to the lonely little
cemetery (shown on the left of the photo above) at Kirk Hope, and
thence to the lighthouse at Cantick Head. A fine view of the islands is
obtained from the Lighthouse Tower, and the visitors' book contains the
names of R. L. Stevenson and Prince Albert, amongst others of interest.
PEATS
As there are practically no trees in Orkney, wood is not available
for fuel, but fortunately peat is very plentiful, and is used almost
universally for heating purposes. The peats are cut in the spring, and
a peculiar-shaped form of spade, known as a toysker, is employed to cut
the turfs, which are stacked on the side of the bank as shown in the
photograph. After a few weeks the peats are "raised"--_i.e._, set on
end--and arranged in small heaps, so that they may dry more thoroughly.
They are then carted home and stacked, each croft possessing its stack
for the winter months.
[Illustration: DIGGING THE PEATS--HOY.]
During the war parties of men from the ships could often be seen
assisting the crofters in digging the peats--such assistance being very
welcome at a time when labour was scarce and there was plenty of work
to be done on the land. A day at the peats can be recommended to anyone
who wants to know what it is to feel really tired after a hard day's
work!
[Illustration: T. Kent. CARTING HOME THE PEATS.]
PRIMITIVE METHODS OF AGRICULTURE IN ORKNEY
[Illustration: HORSE AND OX HARROWING.]
[Illustration: LOADING SEA-WEED FOR MANURE.]
[Illustration: T. Kent. AN ORKNEY CART.]
[Illustration: T. Kent. MAKING STRAW-BACKED CHAIRS, ORKNEY.]
The primitive cottages which prevailed in Orkney, until a few years
ago, are gradually giving way to larger and more substantial dwellings,
but some of the crofts are still reminiscent of very early times,
consisting only of a "but and a ben," with the beds let into the wall,
after the style of the French cupboard beds of Brittany, and with the
floors made of stone flags.
* * * * *
Orkney has several cottage industries, no doubt due to the long winter
evenings and the inclement weather. Amongst these is rush plaiting for
the famous "Orkney chairs," which, with their comfortable rush backs
and seats and hoods, are familiar to all who have been in Orkney.
[Illustration: T. Kent. INTERIOR OF AN ORKNEY COTTAGE.]
SPINNING
Spinning is another occupation of the winter evenings, which has been
widely revived recently in Orkney owing to the high price of wool. The
Orkneys and Shetlands are noted for the softness and quality of their
wool, and the various processes of teasing, carding, spinning and
dyeing are all carried out on the crofts.
[Illustration: SPINNING.]