partially obstructed at half-way through by stones and dirt; very
decided fall outwards; curves slightly towards east; covered with large
slabs; interior opening 11 in. high, 7 in. wide; exterior opening 10
in. high, 10 in. wide.
5. At (515 ft.); from Parallel Passage to Outer Parallel Passage;
interior opening buried in débris supporting wall threatening to
collapse; exterior opening 10 in. high, 6 in. wide; covered with large
slabs; exterior portion shows decided fall outwards; clear for 8 ft.,
probably further.
6. At (549 ft.); from No. 2 Enclosure to exterior of temple; clear for
13 ft. from interior; exterior opening buried under very old Makalanga
clay floor; covered with large slabs; interior opening 11 in. high, 8
in. wide; shows a fall outwards.
[Drains Nos. 1–6 pass through main wall at points where it is from 13
ft. 6 in. to 16 ft. wide.]
_Drains through divisional walls_:—
7. From No. 14 Enclosure to Parallel Passage facing drain 2 at (391
ft.); exterior opening 12 in. high, 7 in. wide; shows outward fall;
covered with large slabs; passes through wall 6 ft. wide at drain
level; interior end blocked up.
8. From No. 11 Enclosure to Sacred Enclosure (east); on north side of
small conical tower; penetrated for 6 ft., at which point it is blocked
up; rises sharply inside; exterior opening 9 in. high, 6 in. wide;
interior opening blocked up and covered over.
9. At north end of South Passage; from South Passage to Parallel
Passage; decided fall outwards; covered with large slabs; clear for
5 ft.; interior opening 10 in. high, 8 in. wide; blocked up at outer
opening by débris supporting dilapidated wall.
[Pieces of granite cement lining also found here in 1892 and 1902.]
10. From No. 1 to No. 3 Enclosures; at south corner of No. 3; exterior
opening 11 in. high and 7 in. wide; shows fall outwards; covered with
slabs; curves towards south; clear for 6 ft. 6 in.; interior opening
covered by clay floor of Makalanga hut.
11. From No. 15 Enclosure to Inner Parallel Passage; fall outwards;
exterior opening 12 in. high, 8 in. wide; interior opening blocked up
and covered over by soil and wall débris; clear for 5 ft.
_Drains at entrances_:—
12. Through south entrance to South Passage; discovered by Sir John
Willoughby; under centre of steps; outlet on lower face of steps.
13. Under step and parallel with wall at entrance to Sacred Enclosure
(west) from No. 9 Enclosure; two similar drains on Acropolis.
_Drains through an outer wall_:—
14. On north-west side of southern end of North-East Passage; through
base of wall 4 ft. 6 in. wide; eastern exterior opening 8 in. high, 9
in. wide; covered with lintels; clear for 3 ft.; extended eastwards as
an open drain 8 in. wide towards foot of steps of north entrance to the
temple.
15. Through wall dividing No. 10 Enclosure from Platform Area. This has
a fall eastwards, and is in a good state of preservation.
[Illustration: EXTERIOR OF A DRAIN, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE]
[Illustration: MONOLITHS ON THE PLATFORM, ACROPOLIS
(_Also see p. 315_)]
DRAINS AT ACROPOLIS RUINS
16. In Western Temple, in divisional wall “A” (see plan and
description); drain-hole passes 5 ft. from north to south; northern
opening 9 in. high, 11 in. wide; impossible to state the fall owing to
stones and dirt inside; fragments of cement lining were found here in
1891, 1892, and 1902. [The interior of this temple was on the north
side of wall “A,” as well as on the south side of wall “D,” much higher
than between these two walls, which form a small amphitheatre (Bent)
within and at the west end of the larger amphitheatre formed by the
main walls of the temple. This is obvious to anyone examining the
interior. Practical builders have recently stated their belief that
when the lower and western side of this smaller amphitheatre is cleared
of débris drains will be found at the base of the main west wall,
which, so far as discoveries have been made, is the widest ancient
wall in Rhodesia. The whole interior of the temple, and the formation
rock over which, but not upon which, it is built, slant at all points
downwards to the foot of the inner face of the main wall.]
17. On west side of Upper Passage and leading from _Little Enclosure_;
exterior opening 9 in. high, 6 in. wide; clear for 3 ft. inwards;
interior opening covered with débris.
18. East corner of South Enclosure A; through south wall; 4 ft. long;
fall outwards; covered with large slabs; exterior opening 12 in. high,
8 in. wide; interior opening dilapidated.
19. East entrance of Eastern Temple leading from temple to Gold Furnace
Enclosure; under pavement of entrance; still 5 in. deep.
DRAINS IN VALLEY OF RUINS
20. In B section of Posselt Ruins in a divisional wall at extreme
north-west end of ruins.
21. In B section of Posselt Ruins in a divisional wall on north side 4
ft. wide.
22. In B section of Posselt Ruins in main south wall.
23. In Philips Ruins through a substantial wall east of large curved
wall.
24. In Philips Ruins through wall on east side of previous drain.
25. In Mauch Ruins in divisional wall.
26. In Mauch Ruins in east main wall.
27. In Mauch Ruins in east wall of the outer enclosure.
• • • • •
_The battering of walls._—The backward incline of both faces of walls
from their bases to summits is a general characteristic in ancient
architecture at Zimbabwe, and in all other ruins which belong to the
earliest known type of ancient buildings in this country. This feature,
so far as examinations have been made, is conspicuous by its absence
from all buildings of the second or later period. So noticeable is
this feature in the main walls of the Elliptical Temple that visitors
viewing the walls from the interior constantly affirm their belief that
the walls have commenced to lean over towards the exterior, and when
viewing the exterior faces of the identical walls declare that the
walls are leaning inwards and must ultimately fall inside the building.
This is a mere optical delusion.
The main walls, portions of which are believed to have stood some
3,500 years, are, if given the same conditions to which they have been
subjected in past times, quite likely to be standing at the end of
another millennium, if not longer, for the battering-back is a most
important element of their massive strength, and has proved to be the
main factor in securing their durability. Of course, some main walls
in certain places show signs of bulging out and of damage caused by
earth movements, possibly earthquakes, also by lightning, the sinking
of foundations by water or damp, or growth of trees within their
open dry masonry during the long period since their erection. Some
faces of the walls show a complete swagging from end to end of their
lengths, and yet the batter-back has preserved the walls practically
intact throughout with each block occupying its original relative
position. The appearance of such walls strongly suggests the effects of
earthquake, and while these earth-movements would destroy a plumb wall,
a wall with a severe batter-back, such as is seen in all the older
walls at Zimbabwe, would on this account be comparatively safe from
such effects.
In some instances the battering is very severe and exceeds that of
1 ft. in 6 ft., and the native labourers can scale such with ease.
Looking at the rounded extremities of any of the most ancient walls,
one notices that their sides resemble the lines of a lighthouse as
popularly conceived, in many instances the batter-back being more
severe near the base and near the summit, and many of such rounded ends
of walls where still perfect show very graceful lines of battering. So
carefully is the batter-back worked out in the courses that looking up
or down the face of the wall one can scarcely see a quarter of an inch
of face of protruding block out of the line of the battering.
To secure the batter of the walls the blocks are not slanted downwards
at their inner side, but are laid on a true dead level reaching from
face to face of the wall on either side, and in their outer courses
their outside edges are placed back from the outer course below. So
slightly do these courses recede one above another that in the height
of only a few courses it would be almost impossible to detect the
presence of any battering, while it is very decidedly noticeable in a
height of some few feet.
Bent’s estimate of the extent of the battering of walls at Zimbabwe,
namely, 1 ft. in 6 ft., is fairly exact with regard to many of the
walls, but excessive with regard to others, such as the main walls of
the Elliptical Temple, while for many walls it is perfectly correct.
The battering in most instances being more perceptible near base and
summit than on the intermediate face of the wall, and the summits in
many cases having disappeared, the batter-back, as ascertained by
plumb lines, has consequently been considerably reduced. Where the
original summits are still practically intact, and where there have
been no bulging out of the faces of the walls, and the top courses on
the edges do not lean outwards as they frequently do, on account of
creeper and tree growths, the 1 ft. in 6 ft. is frequently approached,
for instance, south wall _Western Temple_, 4 ft. 8 in. in 31 ft.;
_Pattern Passage_, 2 ft. in 13 ft. In low walls 1 ft. in 6 ft. is very
frequently reached.
The main walls of the Elliptical Temple, as shown in the _Table of
Battering_ (see _Elliptical Temple, Main Wall_, Chapter IX.), are much
less than 1 ft. in 6 ft., a fair average for inside faces being 1 ft.
in 11 ft., but at some points it is only 1 ft. in 15 ft., and for
outside faces 1 ft. in 10 ft. and 1 ft. in 8 ft.
(For the battering of the _Conical Towers_, see descriptions of those
structures.)
• • • • •
_Monoliths._—In most of the ruins of both major and minor importance
at Zimbabwe, numerous beams of slate and granite, varying from 4 ft.
to 14 ft. in length, have been found, some of the slate beams showing
signs of having been treated with tools. It has been the custom of
many writers to call these beams “monoliths.” In the greater number
of instances these beams can be shown never to have been employed as
monoliths. So far, at Zimbabwe, authenticated monoliths have been
discovered only at the Elliptical Temple, and the Eastern and Western
Temples of the Acropolis and Philips Ruins. Many of the beams found
in these buildings are not and never were employed as monoliths, and
the greatest possible care has to be taken in discriminating between
monoliths and ordinary beams.
Monoliths have their bases marked and worn by the stones in the sides
of the holes on the summits of the walls in which they now stand or
once stood, as if they had later become loose and had moved or even
oscillated constantly while still in a fairly upright position. The
marking of such as have fallen shows that they were made by rubbing
against the edges of the enclosing blocks when the monoliths were in a
perpendicular position, while some of the jagged notches on the bases
must have been made when the monoliths were in a slanting position.
The stumps of beams left in the side walls of entrances and passages
which were once covered by slate and granite lintels, and across which
the upper portions of the walls were carried, do not show the same
markings; in fact, such ends of slate and granite lintels are not found
to be worn by the friction caused by contact with the edges of blocks,
and besides, these lack all evidence of having occupied a perpendicular
position, or of having been exposed to the weather. Monoliths are
decomposed and weather-worn on all faces, but there is generally more
lichen on their south faces.
Further, the bases of monoliths, plain or carved, especially those
of soapstone and slate, are found to have their lowest extremities
water-worn into smooth faces or grooves at such points round their
faces where the bases did not come in contact with the enclosing
blocks, and this smoothing has obviously been caused by rain-water
running down the faces of the monoliths to the lowest part of their
bases, till at last, especially those of slate, the bases which
were once of greater circumference have become worn and tapered.
The thickness of the wall and the depth to which the bases of the
monoliths were built into them would prevent the sun’s heat drying the
damp bases, and would so keep them moist for a long time after every
shower. This constant moisture has caused the bases to splinter while
the exposed portions of the monoliths remained practically intact.
This water-wearing and the splintering on account of damp are absent
in beams employed for any purpose in a horizontal position, and these
usually show unmistakable signs of having been very well preserved from
the effects of the weather, and the extremities of such beams do not
taper, neither have they become splintered, and are usually as wide as
the main portion of the beam.
Undoubted monoliths of granite and slate have been found used by
Makalanga as building material for their walls, and also as posts
for cattle kraals. Also, in many cases, as posts for graves, and for
decoration of Makalanga walls.
• • • • •
_Soapstone monoliths and beams._—Monoliths of soapstone have only been
found in the three temples, but in greater profusion in the Eastern
Temple on the Acropolis, and at Philips Ruins. Here they were found by
their sections to have been of various diameters, but every one had
been shaped with tools, some being artistically, others only crudely,
decorated, but the majority were plain. Chevron pattern was evidently
the favourite design employed. The Makalanga are believed to have
used some of the broken sections of soapstone monoliths and beams for
carving their _I-daha_ pipe-bowls, in making which they are known to
have excelled. This would save them the necessity of transporting the
material to Zimbabwe from the soapstone formation, the nearest point of
which is twelve miles in a north-western direction. Natives to-day have
been seen taking away very small splinters of soapstone found in the
débris heaps. These they cut with a knife into any crude shape that may
be suggested to their passing fancy. The number of bases of soapstone
monoliths is far greater than the number of splintered or broken
sections found in the wall-débris heaps along the foot of the walls.
Several sections of rounded soapstone beams were also found among the
blocks on the summit of the main wall of the Elliptical Temple, and
other sections were also discovered here in the débris at the foot
of either side of the main wall. These sections, though plain, are
beautifully finished, but being the lower portions above the bases, are
without pattern. Probably the higher portions were decorated, as the
decoration in several instances of soapstone beams discovered does not
extend low down on the monoliths. The radii of the sections found in
the Elliptical Temple varied considerably, while some had flat-worked
faces with narrow ends artificially rounded.
The discovery in all three temples of so many bases and sections of
different sized soapstone monoliths suggests the question: Have the
present standing slate and granite monoliths been, at any rate in some
instances, erected at a later period to replace fallen or fractured
soapstone monoliths?
(_a_) Splinters of undoubted soapstone monoliths, some carved with
geometrical patterns, have been found in large quantities in the lowest
strata of wall-débris at each of the three temples only; sometimes they
were found on the formation rock and below the wall débris, but at
the foot of all the faces of the walls on the summits of which are at
present only slate and unhewn granite are monoliths still more or less
complete and erect.
(_b_) On the summits of walls on which are slate and granite monoliths
numerous small fragments of rounded lengths of soapstone, identical
with soapstone beams and some similarly carved, have been found. These
instances were frequently noticed in all the temples, May-November,
1902, but especially in the Elliptical Temple, where are now only
granite and slate monoliths.
Bent deduced from the various succeeding styles of Zimbabwe
architecture that the ancient style of workmanship changed its form
some time between the period of the earliest builders and the later
ones, and this would explain why the original monoliths were of more
artistic form, with carvings and decorations. How far this has any
connection with the theory of the probable substitution, patent, at
any rate, in some instances, of plain and unhewn granite and slate
monoliths for the fallen and ornate soapstone monoliths, it might be
premature to enlarge upon at present, for, judging by the condition of
the oldest walls on which certain granite monoliths are fixed, some of
these monoliths sunk deep into the summits of the walls were obviously
erected when the walls were originally constructed. For instance, one
carved soapstone monolith was found built into a wall on the north side
of the Western Temple to a depth of 5 ft., while the original height of
the wall could not have been more than 8 ft.
However, both ancient architecture and relics unquestionably prove that
between the earliest and the latest periods of ancient occupation there
was a marked falling off and decadence in the conception and erection
of both buildings and in the character of the articles found.
• • • • •
_Number of monoliths still more or less erect._—The number of monoliths
still erect, or which have fallen, is as follows, but the number may
be further increased as the débris at the bases of the temple walls is
examined:—
At Elliptical Temple.—Nine granite monoliths still erect, nine fallen;
no slate monoliths erect, five fallen; two granite monoliths, one of
which is fractured, stand in No. 5 Enclosure.
At Eastern Temple, Acropolis.—There are no soapstone monoliths now
standing, but a considerable number of sections of slate and soapstone
monoliths, including bases, were found in the débris. Mr. Posselt, who
resided at Zimbabwe before the Chartered Company took possession of
the country, states that in 1888 three soapstone beams, with birds
on their summits, were standing in the interior of the left-hand side
of the West Entrance, and one at the northern end of the summit of
the main east wall, on which is the dentelle pattern. The three beams
stood on a small raised platform, and as this temple was then used as a
cattle kraal, the cattle rubbed against them and eventually pushed over
the beams.
At Western Temple, Acropolis.—There are twelve slate and four granite
monoliths still standing on the walls, and four slate monoliths, three
still intact, have been found in wall-débris. Originally those on the
south and west walls were exactly equi-distant. Bent found and removed
several sections of different soapstone monoliths, both decorated and
plain, but he found no soapstone bird in this temple. In 1891 the lower
portion of a soapstone bird was discovered and taken to Johannesburg,
and its whereabouts are at present unknown. In August, 1902, the head
and neck of this same bird were found, as also a length of the beam
upon which it stood, and this is beautifully carved with chevron
pattern. This beam originally stood on the summit of the north wall.
All slate monoliths are plain, but many of those of slate have been
rounded with tools of which they bear the markings.
Several monoliths have fallen since 1888. One immense granite beam
which occupied an upright position immediately north of _The Platform_
in the Elliptical Temple has disappeared since 1891. A monolith in
the interior facing the _Western Entrance_ has fallen within the last
few years, while a tall granite beam at the same spot has broken off
just above the ground within the same period. Another tall granite
beam occupied the _Central Area_ in the temple, and this has also
disappeared within the last seven years.[44] Relic prospectors of the
nineties appear to have excavated round the spots occupied by monoliths
and caused their fall.
The finest specimen of a bird on a soapstone beam yet discovered at
Zimbabwe was found by the author in _Philips Ruins_ in February, 1903.
• • • • •
_Slate and granite beams._—These are plentifully found in all the
enclosures. Sections and splinters of slate beams are found in
entrances which have portcullis grooves, one still standing in
position 8 ft. above the floor. Slate beams used as entrance posts in
portcullis grooves were erected before the building of the entrance,
as the enclosing blocks follow the irregularities of the beams. Wood
posts found in some portcullis grooves in poorer built walls are not
considered ancient, and their comparative modernity is testified to by
experienced builders who have very recently examined a collection of
such posts. Mopani hard wood and mahobohobo have not been used in all
such instances, some of the posts being of soft wood. Wooden posts have
not so far been found in well-built entrances. The posts outside the
clay huts of old Makalanga are older in appearance and condition than
the majority of the posts found in the poorer entrances, though they
very closely resemble one another in measurements and in the wood used.
In one instance the groove was too large for the wooden post which had
been wedged in with granite splinters, the granite being only slightly
weathered.
Slate and granite beams were also employed for the bonds and ties of
walls, also for ties in sharply curved walls, also for supporting the
roofs over covered passages.
The nearest point to the slate formation is seven miles in a
north-easterly direction. It is believed that the long granite beams
were brought from the Lumbo Rocks, one and three-quarter miles to the
south, where a great quantity of exactly similar shaped beams are to be
seen lying scattered round the high perpendicular column of granite,
the sides of which split off into the shape of the long monoliths found
on the Acropolis.
• • • • •
_Cement dadoes._—One of the discoveries made recently in clearing the
lower portions of interior faces of walls from débris, which appears to
have covered them for centuries, is that some portions of such walls
have been found to be covered with the remains of excellent granite
cement dadoes. This is particularly to be noticed on three walls of the
_Sacred Enclosure_, on the south wall of _No. 11 Enclosure_, and at the
_Little Enclosure_ and the _Upper Passage_ on the Acropolis, and in
other ruins where portions of this dado still remain.
These dadoes extended to a height of 7 ft., the cement being found in
patches still intact and in the joints of the blocks to this height,
the courses above this height being entirely free from traces of cement.
In passages and narrow places great quantities of this cement lay on
the original floors along the bottoms of the walls on either side, some
fragments showing on their backs the ribbed markings of the courses
up against which the cement had been pressed, also bevelled edges, as
if from the top and ends of such dadoes. This was particularly the
experience on clearing out the _Parallel Passage_ in the Elliptical
Temple. It is possible that these dadoes had once facings of white
soapstone clay, beautifully smoothed, for this was found on some
fragments of such cement dadoes, and the facing, when cut with a knife,
powdered exactly as soapstone does.
It can be noticed by anyone that the lower portions of the walls which
once had dadoes have their block faces somewhat roughly built as
compared with the upper portions of the walls. This appears to suggest
that the original builders, in erecting the wall, had calculated upon
certain portions of the faces being covered with dadoes. These rougher
surfaces would provide a better hold for the cement than would the
smoother faces of the walls above.
The cavities in the dry masonry of the main walls of the Elliptical
Temple contain cooled air even at noontide, and this rushes out from
between the courses with such a force as to make it impossible to light
a match close to them, while it is a very easy matter to carry on a
conversation through a wall 15 ft. thick and 32 ft. high.
To the original builders who, as is shown elsewhere, thoroughly
understood and appreciated the art of sanitation, it is quite probable
that these dadoes were considered necessary, especially as these dry
masonry walls are the homes of snakes, lizards, and other unpleasant
reptiles and creatures which probably were more abundant here three
thousand years ago when, as competent scientists affirm, the climate
was more humid. Whether for the exclusion of sound, for the securing
of privacy, for the protection of their dwellings from reptiles, or to
avoid the tearing by rough granite blocks in very narrow passages of
such garments as they might have worn, or for the purpose of artistic
effect—and these ancients practised several fine arts—the fact has
recently been revealed that at any rate some of the ancient walls were
once covered with these cement dadoes.[45]
• • • • •
_Built-up crevices._—On the Acropolis Hill cliffs and boulders form
such prominent features that these have often been employed as sides
of enclosures. The ancients were in many instances at great pains to
build up crevices and fissures in rocks, especially where these are in
or near the enclosures. Even small crevices only a foot or so wide,
and penetrating into the face of the cliffs and rocks for but two
or three feet, the front being the only part giving access to such
fissures, are carefully built up flush with the face of the rock. Some
large perpendicular fissures in the cliffs have been so built up to an
immense height. One fissure on the south side of the Rock Holes Path
has been built up for 40 ft. above the ground. This fissure is from 1
ft. to 3 ft. wide. The effect caused by this column of blocks running
up the face of the cliff is very strange. Some fissures are so narrow
that very small blocks have been used. From some of such fissures the
built-up courses have fallen away, leaving a few courses, here and
there at different heights wedged in between the sides of the fissures,
and occasionally one sees a single block wedged into a fissure at
an immense height above any ruin. This building-up of crevices and
fissures is to be found almost over the whole face of the hill where no
ruins are now to be seen. If two boulders are near together, it may be
taken as almost a moral certainty that on examining the boulders they
will be found to be connected with a wall, even if the space be only a
foot or two wide.
In a similar manner the holes under overhanging boulders have been
neatly built up so as to effectually hide the hole. The natives have in
two or three instances removed sufficient of the blocks to enable them
to pass a corpse through, after which, with their peculiar style of
building—column form—they have filled up the gaps with walling.
• • • • •
_Holes in walls other than drains._—This peculiar feature of ancient
architecture is especially prominent at the Acropolis, also in East
Ruins, and in almost all the ruins in the Valley of Ruins. There
are holes, generally square, in the lower parts of the walls at two
or three feet above any ancient floor. They are found only on the
inside faces of walls, not one as yet having been discovered on the
outer face. That they are intentionally made is a matter of ocular
demonstration, for many have lintels either of large granite slabs or
of slate beams. The blocks of the side framings are all built flush
with each other. Their peculiarity is that they do not extend back
into the wall for more than the length of a block, in one case of two
blocks, and the internal packing blocks in the wall are seen inside.
One such recess on the Acropolis shows traces of having once been lined
with granite cement. The bottom portion of a similar recess in Upper
Passage also has remains of cement lining. The largest recess is to be
seen on the west side of a divisional wall in East Ruins. This is 3 ft.
high and 1 ft. 10 in. wide. No such recess has so far been discovered
in the Elliptical Temple, but at least fifty have been found elsewhere
among the ruins.
• • • • •
_Blind steps and platforms._—In several enclosures in the principal
ruins at Zimbabwe, but mainly at the Elliptical Temple, and in the
angles formed by the meeting of side walls of the enclosures, are to
be seen small raised platforms approached by two or three steps. These
steps could not have led to higher positions than the small platforms,
that is, they could not have been intended for mounting to the summit
of the wall, for the bottom steps are at far too short a distance from
the walls in comparison with their heights, besides which, the steps
and platforms are perfect in themselves, and their summits, judging by
the condition of the cement floor, terminated as is seen to-day. Nor
are there any signs on the faces of the walls above such platforms of
any steps, or that the blocks in the angles of the walls were at any
time protected from the weather by any higher structure.
These blind steps surmounted by miniature platforms are made of blocks
thickly covered with granite cement similar to that found on the lowest
floors of the temple—the steps being large and deep and boldly rounded
off. The shape of these erections reminds one of the steps and raised
platforms which are frequently seen in stableyards at home, and were
once very generally used as mounting blocks.
Bent, unfortunately, discovered only one of these platforms, and this
was the one on the north side of the Sacred Enclosure (west), and when
he saw it the platform was covered with débris, evidently débris,
judging by its age, put there by Dr. Mauch, who had been exploring
in this portion of the enclosure. This débris was foreign to this
particular spot and had evidently been removed from nearer the Conical
Tower. Bent therefore conjectured that these blind steps once led to
the summit of the south wall of The Platform. The height of the wall
here, 12 ft., could not have been surmounted by these steps, for if
carried upwards with the same class of step as below, they would have
failed to reach half-way up the wall.
These erections might have served a similar purpose for the enclosures
in which they were erected, as did the large Platform immediately
in front of the Conical Tower for the whole of the Temple. The best
examples are in the north-east corner of No. 12 Enclosure, the south
corner of No. 7 Enclosure, both in the Elliptical Temple, and in the
south-east corner of the Western Temple and in the north, east, and
west angles of the Eastern Temple, both on the Acropolis. Possibly the
platform and steps in the South Passage of the Elliptical Temple were
used for a similar purpose, for this latter structure, though not built
into any angle of walls, is of exactly similar construction to the
others.
• • • • •
_Ancient walls at a distance from any main ruins are of a less
superior construction._—There is another class of building found in
walls erected at a distance from any main ruins, and these, though
constructed in a somewhat rougher form, are otherwise all built upon
the principles of the First Period of Zimbabwe architecture. These
walls can be clearly shown to have formed part of the original purpose,
plan, and construction as the main ruins, and prove that the original
ancient builders, while devoting their best skill to the temples and
residential portions of the building, were satisfied with a somewhat
inferior quality of workmanship for their more distant walls, and for
such of their outlying buildings as were used for some purpose, judging
by the finds, other than those of workshop or residence, most probably
as forts, workshops, stores for grain, or as the housing places of
slaves.
The close connection between the well-built walls of the main ruins
and these outlying walls and buildings is, in many instances, easy to
establish, and this may be shown as follows:—
1. The sole difference between the construction of the main ruins and
the outlying buildings lies in the quality of workmanship and material,
these outlying walls showing all other features of first-period
architecture to the exclusion of any feature of the second or later
periods of construction.
2. Connecting passages between the inner portions of main ruins and
the outlying buildings are well built in and near the main ruins, but
are excellently constructed as distance is reached, though the line of
foundations throughout, as also the cement flooring, are one and the
same.
3. Undoubted ancient floors are laid up to and against such walls.
4. Relics of prehistoric character, similar to those discovered within
any of the main ruins, have been found beyond main walls in connecting
passages and in the more distant ruins.
These evidences as to the early period during which some of the more
distant walls were erected are also found in other large ruins of
Southern Rhodesia, but at Zimbabwe, where the Acropolis affords such
a commanding view of the lines of walls of the outer ruins and of the
directions of recently unburied passages of great length, and of the
sweep of the walls connecting main ruins with outlying buildings, the
original purpose of many of the walls and minor ruins appears to be
very manifest.
In these outer walls the blocks are of far greater size, their shape
is frequently irregular, and unhewn stones are employed, but their
faces are even on either side and the internal parts are neatly filled
in with stones. All these walls have the usual Zimbabwe batter-back,
have rounded entrances, and the steps are not built in between the side
walls, but are formed by the courses of the foundations. Plumb walls
and angular entrances are very rarely met with.
• • • • •
_Cement._—The original builders of the Zimbabwe ruins, as well as
those of later ancient periods, can be seen to have shown a peculiar
partiality for the employment of cements for all constructive work save
that of building the walls, which are all, without exception, of dry
masonry. Evidently the ancients, judging by the immense quantity of
cement work throughout the ruins, much of which is still in splendid
condition, deliberately avoided the use of cement in the construction
of the walls. Probably in this respect, and in the employment of blocks
of a certain size, they were but following the methods of building to
which they were accustomed before their arrival in this country.
(1) The cement work of the oldest periods has been pronounced by
practical builders to have been made of crushed fragments of decomposed
granite mixed with a large proportion of lime, the latter being found
in Suku Glen (see _Suku Glen_) in extensive areas. This cement is
exceedingly hard, and has a glaze on the outer surface which, once
broken, has caused the internal body of cement to rapidly decompose
into yellow soil. Thus on the faces of steps, dadoes, and all
perpendicular work, the cement is more intact, while on flat surfaces
where rain-water could not be carried away owing to the stopping up of
drains the cement floors are in many instances considerably ruined.
Tree roots are rarely found to have penetrated any cement floor which
was in a whole condition, and where a root has so penetrated the
cement, the root, acting as a conductor of water, has caused all the
cement along the line of root to become decomposed. All the roots of
trees which have recently been removed from above cement floors are
flat, while some of them assume the shape of the structure that was
underneath. In one instance the roots of an immense fig tree, which was
thought to be over one hundred years old, had wound round and round a
circular cement platform which they had failed to penetrate.
This class of cement has been very extensively used by the older
occupiers for (_a_) flooring, (_b_) dadoes, (_c_) covering steps and
platforms, (_d_) construction of steps and platforms made entirely of
cement, (_e_) raised rims for dividing floors into separate catchment
areas, so confining rain-water over certain areas to particular drains,
(_f_) foundations of walls, (_g_) for short, low divisional walls made
entirely of cement.
(2) There is another class of granite cement which closely resembles
the first-mentioned, and this is found on the higher levels. It is
also yellow, but in it occur pieces of granite, and it has a decidedly
coarser appearance. This is not so lavishly laid, being only one or
two inches thick, whereas the former cement is most frequently found
to have a thickness of at least 6 in., that is, in those instances
where the structures are not entirely composed of this cement. A great
quantity of this cement work can be seen on the Acropolis or in the
Valley of Ruins.
(3) A further class of cement is of a dull reddish colour, containing
more soil than granite. Practically it is clay, but so fine and well
polished that it deserves the designation of cement. This work had been
burnt white, and its material is very strong and far superior to the
best clay used by the oldest native occupiers.
(4) A greyish-coloured cement, in which there are large proportions of
lime. This is found in ruins. On the summit of Rusivanga Kopje there
are floors and walls made of it. There is difference of opinion between
builders and native authorities as to the makers of this cement. It is
most certainly superior to any such material made by the natives of
to-day. It closely resembles, if it is not identical with, the material
used in building the two classes of huts Nos. 1 and 2 (see _Native huts
found in ruins_). The natives state it is not of any known Makalanga
make. It is found in large slabs, as if from the side walls of circular
huts, fully 14 ft. in diameter, also in bevelled ruins of all sizes.
This cement can be seen in some of the ruins, also on Zimbabwe Hill,
where the natives state there has been no occupation, excepting, of
course, Mogabe’s brief residence, for at least five generations.
Judging by the high-class quality of Kafir “finds” here, it is quite
possible that this cement is that of the mediæval Makalanga.
(5) The other descriptions of _daga_ (clay) vary in quality from
fairly good to most inferior. These are mere veld soil, without being
mixed with lime, and are seen in portions of distinctly old Kafir huts
resembling the types Nos. 2 and 3. It is also to be found in quantities
on the Bentberg and on Rusivanga Kopje. In many trenches can be seen
three or four layers of this _daga_ one above another, each layer being
about one inch thick, and there are layers of ashes between the floors.
• • • • •
_Ancients and caves and rock holes._—There are innumerable rock holes,
chasms, and large fissures among the cliffs and boulders of the
Acropolis Hill, but there is only one—the Balcony Cave—that actually
deserves the title of cave, though this name is bestowed upon them all
by several writers. Perhaps Balcony Cave approaches nearest to the
general conception of what is a cave. But the holes under beetling
boulders which constitute these “caves” are as a rule shallow, low, and
narrow.
There are no evidences in any of these holes, so far as they have been
examined, that the ancients cut into the rock or quarried to make or
improve these holes, the faces of the rock being all natural, and
devoid of any traces of their having been worked. Sir John Willoughby
makes a similar statement as to the rock never having been cut. It is
also noticeable that small spurs of formation rock jutting up through
the floors of enclosures have never been cut away. But the ancient
builders were very clever in artificially improving the fronts of the
rock holes, so as to add extra space to the size of the holes. This
was done in at least two instances, though there are traces of its
having been done elsewhere. A wall was built at some feet immediately
in front of the hole, and this was carried up so high that its summit
was connected with the cliff or boulder which rose above and arched
outwards in front of the hole. This is seen at South Cave, where a wall
was carried up to the over-arching boulder, thus more than doubling the
area of the cave (see descriptions of each cave).
There are a series of such rock holes on the north-east side of the
hill and on the south of Rock Holes Path. The covered holes between
the large boulders look very romantic, and their appearance suggests
the probability of there being large caves here, but the appearance is
most deceptive. The greatest number of such hollows are to be found at
the east end of the Acropolis Hill, and some few of these are worth
visiting, but the irregular and rugged contour of that face of the
hill makes climbing there a most difficult matter, besides which our
labourers have recently killed two tiger-cats at these holes, and they
state that there are more of such animals there.
Some few only of the caves near the main ruins of the Acropolis have
had cemented floors, the formation rock being in most instances
sufficiently smooth and level to make it unnecessary to lay cement
floors. Platform Cave has at least three levels of cement flooring one
above another.
The purposes for which these caves have been used cannot be determined,
for the finds made in them were very meagre and common, most being
Makalanga hoes, spearheads, brass wire bangles still containing hair or
grass, and fragments of pottery of poor and modern make. The only caves
which yielded anything of antique character were Platform and Balcony
Caves. In the former were sections of soapstone monoliths and fragments
of soapstone bowls. In the latter were about a dozen large slate beams
and plain soapstone beams. The soil in this cave has often been panned
by visitors, as there has always been an idea that gold dust was once
stored here. Almost all the pannings showed faint traces of gold, and
one or two rather richly. Theodore Bent, Sir John Willoughby, and also
many searchers for relics, have practically cleared the most important
of these caves of all finds.
A cave hole under an immense boulder on the south side of the Gold
Furnace Enclosure is about 15 ft. square, but one has to crouch low
down to move about in it. Here have been found quantities of quartz,
copper ore, and ironstone, pieces of beaten copper and copper wire,
sections of gold crucibles, and pottery whorls. No industry could
have been carried on in this low-roofed area, but gold-, copper-, and
iron-smelting were evidently conducted in the adjoining and higher Gold
Furnace Enclosure, and this hole or chasm, as Bent calls it, was used
for depositing the debris from such furnaces.
Nearly all the rock holes on Zimbabwe Hill had been used for some
purposes—up to four years ago by the Makalanga as burial-places, the
hill abounding in such graves. Now the local Makalanga are prohibited
burying on this hill, and at the same time their kraal was removed from
the Acropolis. The bodies were placed in the corners of these rock
holes and piled over with stones; the pot, assegais, knobkerries—and in
one instance a large bark-string hunting-net, 5 ft. high and about 30
yds. long—which belonged to the deceased, were laid upon the top of the
stones.
There are no Bushman paintings in any of these caves, nor on the
immense rocks which are strewn all over the hill. Nor does the district
round about possess any of these paintings. Almost every kopje within
a few miles of Zimbabwe has very recently been carefully examined for
walls, relics, caves, and paintings, several of the hills having been
within the last few months ascended several times from various points.
Natives, farmers, and prospectors state that these are altogether
absent from this portion of the Victoria district.
But caves and rock holes are very numerous on some of the kopjes which
are within an easy walk of the ruins, and if some of these were cleared
out some discoveries might possibly be made. It will be recalled that
both the ancient cylinder with rosettes, the wooden platter with the
signs of the zodiac, and the notorious pot “Fuko-ya-Nebandge” were all
found in caves at some little distance from Zimbabwe.
CHAPTER IX
THE ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE
Main Walls—Plan—Construction—Measurements—Summit—Foundations—Chevron
Pattern—Ground Surface of Exterior.
_Plan of main wall._—Though popularly spoken of as the “Circular
Temple,”[46] the building is of elliptical plan, “a form of temple,”
says Bent, “found at Marib, the ancient capital of the Sabæan kingdom
in Arabia, and at the Castle of Nakab al Hajar, also in that country.”
The resemblance between the temple at Marib and the Elliptical Temple
at Zimbabwe is remarkable, and several scientists of repute, who have
considered the plans of both these ruins, emphasise the remarkable
resemblance, not only in the plan, but in the forms of worship
practised by the ancients, as evidenced also by the relics discovered
at both temples. For instance, Professor Müller, of Vienna, the great
South Arabian archæologist (_Burgen und Schlösser_, ii. 20.) compares
these two ruins as follows:—
_Marib._ _Zimbabwe._
Plan, system of curved walls, Practically the same.
geometrical building, orientation.
Inscription on Marib is in two rows, Two rows of chevron pattern run
and runs round a fourth of the round a fourth part of the
circumference. circumference.
Half of elliptical wall, on side of The same at Zimbabwe, where the
inscription, is well built and well pattern side of the wall is well
preserved, but opposite side is built. The other portion is rough.
badly built and ruined.
Temple was dedicated to the goddess Highly probable that Zimbabwe was
Almaquah—the star Venus, which is a Sabæan Almaquah temple, as it is
called in the Himyaritic tongue orientated and geometrically built
Ialmaquah, or Almaq = illuminating. for astronomical purposes, as in
all cases of such buildings used
for the worship of Almaquah.
Sacred birds found at Zimbabwe are
said to represent Venus the
“Morning Star.”[47]
Herr Brugsch believes the images of the birds found at Zimbabwe
emphasised a Sabæan occupation, while M. Naville is especially of
opinion that there exists a strong connection between Venus, the star
of the Sabæans, and the goddess worshipped at Zimbabwe. The evidences
pointing to the close connection of the South Arabian temples and
Zimbabwe are almost inexhaustible. On this point Bent and Schlichter
are at one with each other (see _Petermann’s Mitteilungen_ 1892; also
_The Gold of Ophir_ by Professor A. H. Keane; and M. Arnaud’s plan of
the temple at Marib).
Professor Müller also states that the elliptically formed wall appears
to have been always used in the temple buildings of ancient Arabia, and
states that at Sirwah the Almaquah temple is built in an oval form. In
these old temples, he says, sacred inscriptions to the deities were set
up on stylæ (stone beams). At Zimbabwe some scores of carved soapstone
beams have been discovered in the three temples, also ten birds perched
on tall soapstone beams and three other birds detached from their
beams, also four miniature birds on pedestals carved out of soapstone.
The Elliptical Temple at Zimbabwe is a much larger building than that
at Marib, having a circumference of about 833 ft. as against the 300
ft. of the Marib temple.
On entering the building it is at once seen that the most massive
and excellently constructed portions of the main wall extend
from slightly north of the North Entrance to the east and south and
south-west, and that the other portions, particularly the north-west
and west, are slighter, and though showing fairly good workmanship,
it is not nearly so well built as the other portion of the wall, the
average width of the summit of the poor wall being barely a third
of the average width of the better-built portion. The general line
of the summit is also fairly level, but it averages some 5 ft. to 8
ft. less in height than that of the northern and eastern walls. The
distinct character of the two portions of the main wall is very plainly
noticeable on viewing the temple from the summit of the Acropolis Hill.
[Illustration: THE ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE Great Zimbabwe
_Methuen & Co._]
But this temple does not stand alone in showing its main wall massive
and exceptionally well built at one point of its circumference and
slighter built on the other part. This feature is common to many ruins
in Rhodesia, excepting, of course, ruins of forts and those ruins
built upon the angular plan and terraced. Bent was fully aware of this
feature, and cites instances of its occurrence. Mr. Swan does the same,
and so does Schlichter. At some time or another before the north-west
and west wall was built that portion of the original wall had become
dilapidated, and the temple had become “half-moon,” “section of a
circle,” or “crescent” shaped, these being the terms applied by all
writers, without exception, to such of the circular ruins in the First
Period Ruins’ Area,[48] where portions of the main wall had fallen
down. The published plans of ruins demonstrate this fact. Probably
Zimbabwe will again become a “section of a circle,” for it stands to
reason that the weaker wall will be the first portion to disappear.
The massive and well-built portions of the ruins, built upon a system
of curves, almost always bear the mural pattern of the oldest types,
while the slighter portions are without pattern. It is so at Marib,
it is so at Zimbabwe, and it is so in some score of ruins built upon
the same principles, as shown in the Elliptical Temple. This has been
found to be so invariable a rule that on sighting a building of this
class of ruin even at some distance one can almost fix the position
of the pattern, that is, if the wall is not so reduced in height that
the decoration, if originally any, has not disappeared. Assuming no
principle of orientation to attach to such ruins, there yet remains
something to be done in explaining the directions of the massive curved
and decorated walls of the circular ruins, for the existence of so many
scores of parallelisms can hardly be explained away as being but so
many coincidences.
It has now (June, 1903) for the first time been shown by ocular
demonstration that the slighter wall, though ancient, is a
reconstruction of a still more ancient wall which curved outwards more
to the north and north-west. Recently some thirty tons of granite
blocks which lay in the gap on either side of it were removed, and the
foundations at this spot uncovered, showing the meeting in a mis-joint
at an oblique angle of two distinct walls, the foundations of the
massive north wall being 9 ft. 10 in. wide, and that of the later wall
6 ft. wide, while the class of building in the two walls is obviously
distinct. The face of the end of the north wall was extended further
outwards towards N.W. 40 ft., and the line of its foundation, according
to its curve, points in that direction, where, it is believed, the old
extended foundation has been come upon at 36 ft. outside the later
wall. The slighter wall approaches the massive wall from W. 80. The
bases of the foundations are practically on the same level.
Though the later wall is not so well constructed as the older wall, it
must not be taken as poorly built. (See “_Construction of main wall_,”
later.)
The wonderful feature is that no joint in the wall has so far been
discovered in its south-west portion. Practical builders who have
examined the wall on this side for such a joint are perplexed at
not being able to discover it, and some consider, from certain
circumstances noticeable, that it must have been at the West Entrances
where this later wall was commenced, in which case no such joint would
in all probability be found.
• • • • •
_Construction._—The construction of the main wall from the north to the
east, and round to the south and south-west, is admittedly by far the
finest specimen of ancient constructive work yet found in Rhodesia; it
has consequently been made the standard by which the best-known writers
and greatest authorities judge of the quality of the work shown in
other walls in the country. Certainly two large and important ruins in
the Lower Sabi Valley, which are much larger in area but with lower
walls than Zimbabwe, closely rival the Great Zimbabwe in construction
and boldness of design. But with regard to the more massive and highest
portion of the main wall every practical builder who visits Zimbabwe
is amazed at the equal distribution of the joints, the conscientious
bonding of the outer courses, the good quality of stone selected, the
careful dressing and the regularity of the sizes of the blocks, the
neat packing throughout the whole width of the wall, and the tiling of
the summits of the wall with “throughs.” The filling-in of the wall
has been most conscientiously executed, and is seen to have been done
course by course with the faces of the wall, as the courses throughout
are pronounced to correspond with the outer courses of the wall on
either side, and some builders have positively stated that some sort
of a levelling instrument must have been used. “Straight joints” for
more than two or three courses are absent, and these are rare, “false
courses” are also rare, and there is little seen of chips levelling up
the corners of the blocks.
The marvellous symmetry of the batter-back of the dry masonry,
especially in the boldly conceived and most excellently constructed
sweep of the wall on its inner face from north to north-east and
south-west, secures the admiration of every visitor, and forms one
of the chief features by which the Great Zimbabwe stamps itself on
one’s memory. The scrupulously careful workmanship displayed here, and
particularly in the courses near the Chevron Pattern and on the outer
face of the north-east portion of the wall, show undoubtedly the most
superior of any ancient building yet discovered in Rhodesia, if not
also of the important ruins lying at some distance, to the south-east,
of which only sketch-plans and a few photographs are yet to hand. The
massive solidity and excellent construction, together with its batter
(see _Architecture_, section “Battering of Walls”), which this wall
displays, have, no doubt, secured its wonderful preservation in spite
of earthquake, effects of tree and creeper growth, and the ravages of
some millenniums of time.
The construction demonstrates the fact that the ancients in their own
home in the north were thoroughly well-practised in the building with
either stone blocks or bricks. Moreover, as suggested by Bent and
Schlichter, the extensive use of granite cement in making floors both
inside and outside the ruins at Zimbabwe proves that it was by design
that the ancients adopted the system of building with dry masonry.
Concerning the construction of the north-west and west portions of
the main wall there has been much controversy, Bent and Schlichter
being emphatic in stating that not only was it most inferior to that
of the other portions of the main wall, but that it was obviously
of later construction on contracted lines, but still ancient. These
two archæologists could have arrived at this conclusion only by the
measurement of the wall and by its quality of workmanship. Sir John
Willoughby, on the other hand, contended that it is built as well as
any other portion of the main wall. It is certainly not poor building
that renders it less easy to climb along its summit, the difficulty
being the number of loose stones which line the top owing to the
summit having been threshed by branches of large trees.
[Illustration: SOUTH-EAST WALL, WITH CHEVRON PATTERN, OF ELLIPTICAL
TEMPLE, ZIMBABWE]
This wall—now recently shown to be a reconstruction in a later ancient
period[49]—is in every point better built than many walls on the
Acropolis, and is superior in workmanship to many of the divisional
walls of the Elliptical Temple. The outer face is fairly well
constructed.
• • • • •
_Measurements of main wall._—The circumference of the outer face of the
main wall taken at the level of the threshold of the entrances measures
about 831 ft. As the foundations throughout the circumference are, as
is shown later, some 3 ft. to 5 ft. below this level, and as the usual
Zimbabwe batter-back prevails, the circumference of the foundations of
this building may safely be estimated at a further 40 ft., which would
make a total circumference of the base of the temple some 873 ft.
The circumference of the inside face of the entire main wall measured
at a corresponding level is about 776 ft. 6 in., the foundations, as
shown later, being from 3 ft. to 5 ft. below the level at which this
measurement was taken.
Granite slabs with painted figures now mark the distances both outside
and inside round the main wall, commencing in either case at the south
side of the West Entrance and going south. The distances on the outside
are marked at every 50 ft., and those on the inside at every 20 ft. A
small black spot is painted on the wall just above each slab to denote
the exact spot in each length measured.
In this description of the Elliptical Temple all measurements in
angular brackets are exterior measurements of the main wall only, and
those in rounded brackets are those of interior measurements of the
main wall, all commencing at the south side of the West Entrance and
going south. For instance, “The North-West Entrance is situated between
the following points in the main wall—[656 ft.] and [660 ft.] and (606
ft. 6 in.) and (611 ft.),” or “A large granite beam lies at the base of
the main wall at (338 ft.).”
MEASUREMENTS OF EXTERIOR OF MAIN WALL COMMENCING AT SOUTH SIDE OF THE
WEST ENTRANCE AND GOING SOUTH
Position Point Height above Height above Width of Batter-back
of wall. of cleared bottom of present of face of
compass surface. foundation. summit. wall.
faced.
[0 ft.] W. 7 ft. 6 in. 11 ft. 6 ft. 6 in. 8 in.
Between [0 ft.] and [10 ft.] summit of wall rises from 7 ft. to
22 ft.
[10 ft.] — 22 ft. 23 ft. 10 in. 4 ft. 2 in. 2 ft.
[25 ft.] — 21 ft. 6 in. 23 ft. 6 in. 5 ft. 6 in. 2 ft.
[50 ft.] — 22 ft. 24 ft. 6 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. 6 in.
Between [98 ft.] and [104 ft.] are traces of a wall of this width
running towards S.W.
[100 ft.] S.W. 22 ft. 24 ft. 6 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. 6 in.
[150 ft.] S.S.W. 22 ft. 6 in. 24 ft. 6 in. 6 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. 6 in.
Between [161 ft.] and [166 ft. 6 in.] are traces only of wall of
this width protruding from main wall towards S.W.
Chevron Pattern commences at [189 ft.] and extends to [455 ft.
6 in.].
[200 ft.] S. 22 ft. 8 in. 25 ft. 2 in. 10 ft. 2 in. 1 ft. 10 in.
[250 ft.] S.E. 25 ft. 26 ft. 6 in. 8 ft. 2 in. 2 ft. 6 in.
[300 ft.] S.E. 29 ft. 30 ft. 6 in. 8 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 8 in.
[350 ft.] E. 29 ft. 31 ft. 6 in. 9 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 4 in.
At [380 ft.] outer end of drain-hole through main wall.
[400 ft.] E. 30 ft. 31 ft. 9 in. 7 ft. 4 in. 2 ft. 6 in.
At [425 ft. 9 in.] outer end of drain-hole through main wall.
[450 ft.] E.N.E. 32 ft. 34 ft. 9 ft. 6 in. 3 ft.
From [450 ft.] to [565 ft.] is Outer Parallel Passage.
Chevron Pattern ends at [455 ft. 6 in.].
At [482 ft.] outer end of drain-hole through main wall.
[500 ft.] N.E. 33 ft. 35 ft. 6 in. 12 ft. 2 in. 3 ft. 6 in.
At [510 ft. 6 in.] outer end of drain-hole through main wall.
At [530 ft.] line of summit falls to 28 ft.
[550 ft.] N.E. 19 ft. 21 ft. 13 ft. 4 in. 1 ft. 4 in.
Summit of wall very considerably dilapidated.
At [560 ft.] outer end of drain-hole through main wall.
At [571 ft. 6 in.] to [576 ft. 6 in.] steps of North Entrance.
[575 ft.] N.E. 11 ft. (not examined) 14 ft. 2 ft. 6 in.
West side of North Entrance, 11 ft. high, rises to 17 ft. at
[580 ft.].
Between [586 ft.] to [590 ft.] wall this width, forming
north-west side of North-East Passage, protrudes from main
wall towards N.E.
From [610 ft.] to [620 ft.] is gap in main wall and mis-joint of
earlier and later walls.
[625 ft.] N. 16 ft. 6 in. 19 ft. 5 ft. 1 ft.
Original height of wall reduced to 16 ft. 6 in. on west side of
gap.
[656 ft.] N.N.W. 17 ft. 19 ft. 3 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 10 in.
(ruined)
East side of North-West Entrance.
[660 ft.] N.N.W. 17 ft. 19 ft. 5 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 10 in.
West side of North-West Entrance.
[675 ft.] N.W. 17 ft. 18 ft. 6 in. 5 ft. 2 in. 1 ft. 10 in.
Face of wall bulges outwards above foundations.
[700 ft.] N.W. 18 ft. 19 ft. 10 in. 4 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 6 in.
For several feet on either side of [700 ft.] summit of wall is
considerably depressed by tree boughs hitting it.
A wall connecting No. 1 Ruin with Elliptical Temple protrudes
from main wall between [705 ft.] and [710 ft.].
[750 ft.] W.N.W. 21 ft. 23 ft. 4 ft. 8 in. 2 ft. 6 in.
[800 ft.] W.N.W. 20 ft. 6 in. 22 ft. 4 in. 4 ft. 10 in. 3 ft.
From [814 ft.] to [829 ft.] the line of summit breaks downwards
abruptly from 20 ft. to 8 ft. in height.
[827 ft. 9 in.] W. 8 ft. (not examined) 6 ft. 10 in.
This is the north side of West Entrance.
[831 ft. 9 in.] This is the south side of the West Entrance, where the
first measurement started.
MEASUREMENTS OF INTERIOR FACE OF MAIN WALL COMMENCING AT SOUTH SIDE
OF THE WEST ENTRANCE AND GOING SOUTH
Position Side of Height above Batter-back of Point in interior
of wall. temple. cleared surface. face of wall. of temple.
(0 ft.) W.N.W. 7 ft. 6 in. 8 in. No. 5 Enclosure
Between (0 ft.) and (10 ft.) is a large rounded buttress
projecting into the temple. (See description of West
Entrance.)
Between (0 ft.) and (10 ft.) summit rises sharply from 7 ft.
6 in. to 18 ft. 6 in., measurement from present surface of
interior soil.
(10 ft.) W.N.W. 18 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. No. 5 Enclosure
(20 ft.) W.N.W. 21 ft. 1 ft. 10 in. 〃
Measured from bottom of trench showing an old cement floor now
decomposed.
(40 ft.) W.N.W. 21 ft. 1 ft. 8 in. No. 5 Enclosure
Measured from bottom of trench showing an old cement floor now
decomposed.
(60 ft.) W. 21 ft. 4 in. 1 ft. 6 in. No. 5 Enclosure
Measured from bottom of trench showing an old cement floor now
decomposed.
(80 ft.) W. 21 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 2 in. No. 5 Enclosure
Measured from bottom of trench showing an old cement floor now
decomposed.
(100 ft.) W. 18 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 9 in. No. 6 Enclosure
Measured from top of débris on summit of low divisional wall.
(120 ft.) S.W. 20 ft. 10 in. 2 ft. 1 in. No. 6 Enclosure
Measured from red clay floor, believed to be of Makalanga
construction.
At (134 ft.) to (138 ft.) are traces only of a divisional wall.
(140 ft.) S.W. 21 ft. 8 in. 2 ft. 2 in. No. 6 Enclosure
Measured from a yellow granite cement floor.
(160 ft.) S.W. 22 ft. 4 in. 2 ft. 2 in. No. 6 Enclosure
Measured from a yellow granite cement floor.
(179 ft. 3 in.)
Angle of walls.
(180 ft.) S.W. 21 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. No. 6 Enclosure
Measured from a yellow granite cement floor.
At (180 ft.) step-down of foundation of 5 ft.
(200 ft.) S.S.W. 17 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 2 in. No. 8 Enclosure
Measured from summit of old excavated débris, Sacred Enclosure
5 ft. high (since removed). (west)
(220 ft.) S.S.W. 22 ft. 1 ft. 6 in. No. 8 Enclosure
Measured from summit of old excavated débris, Sacred Enclosure
5 ft. high. (west)
(240 ft.) S. 23 ft. 6 in. 3 ft. No. 8 Enclosure
Measured from summit of old excavated débris, Sacred Enclosure
5 ft. high. (west)
The large Conical Tower stands between (246 ft.)
to (264 ft.).
(260 ft.) S. 26 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. 10 in. No. 8 Enclosure
Measured from yellow granite cement floor. Sacred Enclosure
(east)
(280 ft.) S. 26 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. 4 in. No. 8 Enclosure
Measured from yellow granite cement floor. Sacred Enclosure
(east)
The roughly built buttress at (286 ft.) to (303 ft.)
is not ancient.
(300 ft.) S. 28 ft. 2 ft. 6 in. No. 8 Enclosure
Measured from yellow cement floor. Sacred Enclosure
(east)
There are doubts as to the antiquity of buttress
at (306 ft.) to (319 ft.).
(320 ft.) S.S.E. 29 ft. 2 ft. 4 in. No. 8 Enclosure
Measured from yellow granite cement floor. Sacred Enclosure
(east). At West
Granite monolith (conjected) fallen from wall at Entrance to
(340 ft.). Parallel Passage.
Drain-hole through wall at (352 ft.).
(340 ft.) S.S.E. 28 ft. 10 in. 2 ft. 2 in. Parallel Passage
Measured from cement floor.
At (352 ft.) is a drain-hole.
(360 ft.) S.S.E. 30 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. 2 in. Parallel Passage
Measured from cement floor.
(380 ft.) S.E. 30 ft. 4 in. 3 ft. Parallel Passage
Measured from cement floor.
Drain-hole at (391 ft. 6 in.).
(400 ft.) S.E. 29 ft. 3 ft. 2 in. Parallel Passage
Measured from cement floor.
(420 ft.) E.S.E. 30 ft. 4 in. 3 ft. 2 in. Parallel Passage
Measured from cement floor.
(440 ft.) E.S.E. 30 ft. 6 in. 4 ft. Parallel Passage
Measured from cement floor.
Drain-hole at (442 ft.).
(460 ft.) E. 31 ft. 3 ft. 6 in. Parallel Passage
Measured from soil surface.
Drain-hole at (471 ft.).
(480 ft.) E. 31 ft. 2 ft. 4 in. Parallel Passage
Measured from soil surface.
(500 ft.) N.E. 27 ft. 2 ft. 10 in. Parallel Passage
The summit of the wall is much dilapidated. Between (500 ft.)
and (520 ft.) the wall is broken, there being a large gap of
this width, the bottom of which is 14 ft. above present level
of floor.
(520 ft.) N.E. 13 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 6 in. Parallel Passage
Between (520 ft.) and (530 ft.) is the North Entrance. Wall on
east side 6 ft. high, on west side 6 ft. 6 in. high, but on
each side rises sharply within a few feet of the entrance.
From (536 ft.) to (544 ft.) are remains of small banquette
below summit, and at 6 ft. above ground.
(540 ft.) N.N.E. 18 ft. 1 ft. 8 in. No. 2 Enclosure
Drain-hole at (549 ft.).
(560 ft.) N.N.E. 12 ft. 2 ft. No. 2 Enclosure
Centre of line of summit is 3 ft. higher than reduced inside
edge.
Between (566 ft.) and (570 ft.) is the mis-joint in earlier and
later walls.
(580 ft.) N. 3 ft. — No. 2 Enclosure
At (580 ft.) the wall on west side of gap rises abruptly.
(600 ft.) N. 18 ft. 1 ft. 10 in. No. 3 Enclosure
Measured from an old cement floor.
Between (606 ft. 6 in.) and (611 ft. 6 in.) is the North-West
Entrance.
(620 ft.) N.W. 6 ft. 10 in. No. 3 Enclosure
At (614 ft.) this wall rises perpendicularly to 16 ft.
(640 ft.) N.N.W. 16 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 6 in. No. 3 Enclosure
Measured from granite cement floor.
(660 ft.) N.N.W. 19 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 4 in. No. 3 Enclosure
Measured from granite cement floor.
Depression on summit caused by a tree.
(680 ft.) N.N.W. 20 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 2 in. No. 4 Enclosure
Measured from granite cement floor.
(700 ft.) N.N.W. 20 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. No. 4 Enclosure
Measured from granite cement floor.
(720 ft.) N.W. 18 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 4 in. No. 4 Enclosure
Measured from granite cement floor.
Depression on summit caused by a tree.
(740 ft.) N.W. 19 ft. 2 ft. 1 in. Wall separating
Nos. 4 and 5
Measured from base of divisional wall. Enclosures
(750 ft.) N.W. 18 ft. 10 in. 1 ft. 10 in. No. 5 Enclosure
Measured from surface of soil.
Near (54 ft.) summit of wall drops to 9 ft. at north side of
West Entrance.
(763 ft. 6 in.) W.N.W. 7 ft. 10 in. No. 5 Enclosure
Opening of West Entrance between (763 ft.) and (766 ft.).
(776 ft. 6 in.) This is the south side of West Entrance, where first
measurement started.
[Illustration: CHEVRON PATTERN ON EAST WALL, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE]
_Summit of main wall._—For some fairly extensive lengths along the
summit of the more massive portion of the main wall the blocks and
stones are higher on the centre of the floor of the summit than at top
outer edges on either side, from which edges the measurements of the
heights above the exterior and interior surfaces of the ground were
taken. Branches of trees beating in high winds upon the summit, the
weight of heavy festoons of creepers hanging from the summit, and the
growth of monkey-ropes and wild vines in the joints of the dry masonry
have destroyed some of the upper courses on either side of the wall.
Therefore to the heights stated in the foregoing tables should be
added at least 1 ft. or 2 ft., this being a fair average height of the
whale-back ridge along portions of the summit of the wall.
An interesting question arises: What was the original height of the
massive portion of the wall? There are some evidences that the original
height could not have been more than six courses above the chevron
pattern which runs on a true level on the upper and outer face of the
wall between [189 ft.] and [455 ft.]. The greatest number of courses
now remaining over this pattern is five, but these are only found at
two points and for the length of a few blocks. At most points above
the pattern there are no upper courses remaining; at other points one
or two courses are perfect for some distance; the most frequent are
three courses; while at several points there are four courses. To the
heights given in the tables can safely be added 1 ft. to 2 ft. Were the
obviously missing courses to be restored, the raised ridge along the
centre of parts of the summit would be cleared, for these ridges of
stones are formed of blocks once carefully packed, all on their flat
sides, between side walls, and are similar to the existing internal
portions of other well-built walls at Zimbabwe.
Adding this further height of from 1 ft. to 2 ft. to the tabulated
heights, we can carry the investigation much further. The upper faces
of the blocks of the fourth and fifth courses above the pattern are too
free from decomposition, weather-stain, and lichen to have formed the
topmost courses; in fact, their upper surfaces are decidedly fresh,
as if the courses above them had not long disappeared, and when it is
recollected that experience shows that the exposed top surfaces of
blocks are found to take on signs of decomposition and of exposure to
weather, and also to become covered with lichen quicker than the side
faces of blocks in the body of the wall, and that the upper courses
would have given some evidences of long exposure, which they do not, we
may be certain that the wall was carried a further course, or possibly
two courses of the wall higher than the fifth course above the pattern.
Therefore at many points along the highest portions of the wall, as
shown in the tables, 2 ft. 6 in. may be added to the tabulated heights,
and this would include the height of the six courses above the pattern
throughout its whole length.
Whether the original summit was higher than these six courses is a
matter of conjecture. Possibly the wall was two or three courses higher
than the six courses. Here, as elsewhere in the first-period ruins in
Rhodesia, the best-built portion of the edifice is that which bears
the decorative designs. This appears to be an invariable rule in such
older ruins. But at this temple the whole wall, and especially the
courses immediately above and below the pattern, are the best-built
portions of the most superior wall of the building, the courses being
far truer. Moreover, a good quality of stone is employed, giving the
impression that it was specially selected for the purpose, so much so
that their back parts are as well squared as their front faces. It is
most obvious, as practical builders claim, that the pattern itself and
its enclosing courses show the best workmanship on the part of the
ancients, and this notwithstanding that this wall is admitted by all
to stand pre-eminent among excellently constructed walls to be found
anywhere in Rhodesia.
[Illustration: NORTH-EAST WALL, WITH CHEVRON PATTERN, ELLIPTICAL
TEMPLE]
In removing the wall débris at the outer base of the wall containing
the chevron pattern for the purpose of forming catchment areas for
draining the ground near the wall, two classes of stone blocks were
found, a quantity of large, shallow, flat stones similar to those lying
in the middle parts of the summit of the walls, and also a quantity of
well-shaped blocks as used both in the pattern and in the enclosing
courses, but it was estimated that there were not enough of these
blocks to have carried the outer face of the wall more than some two
courses above the fifth course above the pattern. It is impossible to
draw any corresponding inferences with regard to débris on the base of
the interior side of the wall, for excavators have moved this out of
all relative position to the wall from which it fell.
But there is also some evidence as to the original height of the wall.
Such of the undoubted monoliths as still stand more or less erect on
the summit of the wall—and as is shown later, not every upright stone
on this wall is necessarily a monolith—have no signs on their faces of
having been built in by blocks up to any height above the level of the
six courses above the pattern. In the case of any fallen monolith from
the faces of which supporting blocks or any of them have disappeared,
it can be ascertained to what depth the base of the monolith was built
into the wall, and in this respect there is some evidence to guide one
in estimating the original height of the ancient wall so adorned. The
wearing of their sides by the edges of supporting blocks can almost
always be noticed, in addition to which the rain of many centuries is
guided to the base by the position of the supporting blocks which guide
the water downwards, thus causing small rimlets to form on the lower
part of the beams, especially those of slate or soapstone, where the
rimlets have become in time beautifully smooth and glazed. Therefore
it is highly probable that the height of the six courses above the
pattern, with the present height of the wall above its foundations as
given in the tables, formed the original height of the massive portion
of the enclosing wall.
The discovery in December, 1902, of what are believed to be traces of a
line of small round towers on the outer edge of the summit immediately
over the chevron pattern—and these are referred to later—affords very
strong evidence as to what was the original height of the wall, and
points to the limit of six courses above the chevron pattern. The line
of small round towers (recently found to have been conical) on the
outer edge of the west wall of the Western Temple on the Acropolis have
their foundations a few inches below the present summit of the wall.
The foundations of the towers on the wall at the Elliptical Temple,
now being described, have their foundations on the present surface of
the central ridge along the summit of the wall, but were the pattern
made good at the height of the six courses alone, the positions of
these foundations would be identical in several respects with those of
the towers on the Acropolis. Thus these foundations provide a fourth
important corroborative clue as to the original height of the wall.
Along the floor of the summit are laid some large, broad, but shallow
slabs of granite of irregular form, while down below on either side
were a score of others which have fallen off the wall. Bent suggested
that the summit was once paved with these slabs. In view of the four
proofs just adduced with regard to the original height of the wall
being somewhat higher than is seen to-day, the purpose of the slabs
could hardly be that of providing a pavement for the summit. Most
probably they were the “ties” or “throughs” to bind the wall at its
top courses, as invariably found near the summits of the best class of
walls, especially so in all rounded ends of walls, summits of rounded
buttresses, and in the Conical Tower where, near its summit, the back
and inside ends of the blocks are frequently longer than in the lower
courses where they are short. Many of these slabs on the main wall
lie across the wall on its present surface, but these are frequently
covered with laid blocks. The best instances at Zimbabwe of the “tying”
and bonding of the highest courses of walls are to be seen on the
Acropolis, but this feature is elsewhere in Rhodesia common in several
ruins which are not built upon the angular principle. It is natural to
suppose that, if the ancients not only carefully tied the upper courses
of almost all walls with “throughs,” and also tied several points
between base and summit, this main wall bearing the decorative pattern,
and once having on its summit, as is now believed, both round towers
and soapstone beams, the ancients, admittedly being skilful builders,
would regard the effective tying and bonding of such a wall as an
important necessity, especially as the wide and commodious summit was,
as stated by Bent, in all probability a look-out and much-frequented
elevation. The stones which are uncovered are decomposed and lichen-and
moss-covered on their upper faces, but are on their under side as fresh
and as clean as if they had just been brought from the quarry. Some
visitors, supposing these tie-stones to have been fallen monoliths,
have placed four of them in an upright position where they now stand,
but unlike all true monoliths, they are not weathered or time-eaten
all round, and two so erected have all their faces perfectly clean and
fresh.
The summit of the north-west portion of the main wall is fairly level,
save at north-west and west entrances where the wall is reduced in
height, and also at several points where large branches of trees have
beaten off the blocks of the upper courses. The narrow width of the
summit, as shown in the foregoing tables, and the number of loose
stones lying upon it, make it somewhat awkward for walking along it,
still this can be done far more easily than might be supposed from Mr.
Swan’s description. The battering-back of its outer and inner faces
appears to point to its original summit being only slightly higher than
its present top at its highest point. If the wall were once more than
three or four courses above its present highest point, the débris must
have been removed, for no greater quantity of blocks were found than
would have sufficed to make good that height.
• • • • •
_Foundation._—For such massive walls it is astonishing to find that the
bottom courses of the foundation are not more than from 2 ft. to 3 ft.
6 in. below the present level of the ground immediately surrounding the
building. The foundation has been examined at eighteen equi-distant
points along the outer circumference, and in no single part does it
rest on formation rock, the nearest proximity of which is at a further
depth of 4 ft. on the north, 5 ft. on the west, 9 ft. on the south, and
4 ft. on the east. Nor are the bottom courses formed of large blocks,
as is so frequently seen in foundations of other ruins, but blocks
no larger than those in the upper courses have been employed almost
without exception. Near (177 ft.) there is a step-up in the foundation
westwards of 5 ft. 9 in. Near [625 ft.] there runs for a few feet a
very narrow step-back in the three lowest courses of the foundation,
but this is the only point in the circumference of the wall where this
feature can be noticed.
The foundation bed upon which the wall is built is purely artificial.
Evidently the ancient architects prepared a level surface for the wall,
because there is only from 3 ft. to 5 ft. difference in the level of
the foundations all round, notwithstanding that on the south-east the
ground towards the “Valley of Ruins” and the temple which is erected on
the edge of its slope commands the “Valley of Ruins.”
The surface of the prepared foundation consisted of fine cement, now
decomposed[50] to firm dry sand. This cement is in places at least
3 ft. deep, is laid on the granite formation for 10 ft. and 15 ft.
beyond the wall on both inside and outside the building, and later,
when the lower courses of the foundation had been laid, a further
flooring of cement was laid, making the side of the lower portion of
the foundations at least 1 ft. 6 in., if not 2 ft. 6 in. deep.
The enormous amount of time and labour required to be expended merely
in preparing the surface on which to erect the temple is bewildering to
contemplate, and fairly rivals as a demonstration of patient labour,
length of time of construction, and good workmanship the massive walls
themselves. The decomposed cement, which has now become mere sand, was
very finely ground, there being not the smallest splinter of granite in
its composition. The cement being yellow suggests that the ancients,
to save breaking up large pieces of stone, were content to collect
small fragments of granite which had become decomposed, and therefore
were easier to grind, for everywhere in this locality, especially in
damp places and near any granite boulder or glacis, are to be found
quantities of small granite chips all yellow with decomposition.
Possibly granite sand from neighbouring streams might also have been
utilised.
CHEVRON PATTERN
On the upper portion of the exterior face of the south-east main
wall is the celebrated chevron pattern which forms one of the most
interesting features at the Elliptical Temple. This pattern runs
for 265 ft. 6 in. from [189 ft.] to [456 ft. 6 in.] on the line of
measurement of the exterior circumference of the temple, that is, from
south-south-east to east-north-east.
The pattern is in two rows or bands, which together are 18 in. deep,
and Bent states that “it extends along the part of the wall which
receives directly the rays of the sun when rising at the summer
solstice.” The portion of the main wall carrying the pattern is in the
form of an arc, and is the best-built and most substantial part of the
wall. Granite monoliths still stand more or less erect on the summit
of the wall above the pattern, but not elsewhere. Over the pattern
are the foundations of what appear to have been small circular towers
resembling in size and position those on the main west wall of the
Western Temple on the Acropolis.
In 1903 a quantity of sections of worked soapstone beams were found on
the summit of the wall over the pattern. On no other portions of the
summit are there traces of monoliths, round towers, or soapstone beams.
Bent was unaware of the existence of the traces of round towers or of
the soapstone beams on the wall over the pattern, yet he writes, as
seems perfectly correct, “Those parts only of the wall which receive
the direct rays of the sun when rising at the summer solstice are
decorated by this symbolical pattern.” This statement equally applies
to the Eastern Temple on the hill and to the large curved wall in
Philips Ruins, also to the Western Temple, only in this latter case
the great main wall, which is in the form of an arc and is decorated,
receives on its face the rays of the setting sun at the winter
solstice. A very strong corroboration of this statement is afforded by
several other of the more important ruins in Rhodesia which are built
upon the curved plan.
In this pattern the blocks are placed on end with the top of each
supported by the neighbouring block on one side, thus forming a series
of triangular spaces with the bases alternately up and down. The
sides of these angular spaces are about 7 in. long, and the openings
have been neatly filled in with small stones set back inside 2 in. or
3 in. from flush with the face of the wall. The pattern is somewhat
dilapidated in places owing to creeper growths on the wall and to the
swinging of large tree branches, which in every wind beat the pattern
and loosened the stones forming it.
Chevron pattern was in ancient times the symbol for Fertility. It
closely resembles the Egyptian hieroglyphic symbol for water, and also
the zodiacal sign of Aquarius, and represents the sea on such Phœnician
coins as have engravings of ships.
This pattern is found on several of the ruins of the oldest type, and
not on such as by their style of architecture may be considered to be
of a later ancient period. It is found in several of the large ruins
between Zimbabwe and the Sabi, also at Umnukwana Ruins. A portion of
chevron of small size is to be seen at Dhlo-dhlo.
• • • • •
_Ground surface of exterior of main wall._—Till August, 1902, the area
surrounding the Elliptical Temple was mere veld and bush, and trees and
shrubs grew so thickly near the main wall that it was impossible at
certain points to penetrate the jungle to make a complete examination
of the wall, while piles of soil from excavations lay along the base
of the wall, and some up against the wall itself, in some cases to a
height of 6 ft. above the average level of the exterior ground.
Trenches and deep holes, the main wall forming one side of them, were
lined with mud, and filled with ferns and plants which could only
flourish in a situation which was perpetually damp. There was every
evidence that these trenches and holes were filled with water during
each wet season, and that they retained a considerable amount of
moisture even during the dry seasons. At two points this constant state
of damp held by these cuttings had caused the foundations, which at
no place rest on the bed-rock, to sink some inches, thus imparting
wave-like lines to the courses of the wall close to such holes.
To remove this source of injury to the wall by causing it to sink and
also by stimulating tree and creeper growths which were damaging the
wall, it was decided to remove all such débris piles, and also the
veld soil, most of which had in the course of ages silted down from
the lower slopes of the Bentberg some 200 yds. distant on the south
side of the temple, and to leave a floor of hard soil which would
serve to drain off all rain-water and protect the bases of the walls
from being washed by the storm streams from the higher ground. This
work was carried out for a width of some 6 to 8 yds. round the entire
circumference of the temple. Five catchment areas were formed on the
north-west, west, south, and east sides, and from each such area a
run-off now leads all rain-water into a hole sunk in the ground at some
12 yds. distance from the main wall.
These five holes, as shown later, have proved useful in demonstrating
certain features connected with the temple which so far had been
impossible of examination:—
(1) The rock formation is at almost every point some feet below the
lowest course of the foundations of the main wall, in most cases 3 ft.
to 4 ft., and in one instance—the south—fully 6 ft.
(2) The ground outside the temple has been raised by the silting of
soil from the slopes of the Bentberg, by the spreading out of both
ancient and old native débris piles, by the levelling-up of the surface
for laying clay floors of Makalanga huts, and by block débris from
the main and several minor walls. This filling-in, both natural and
artificial, averages to a height of at least 5 ft. above the level
known to the ancients, thus reducing the comparative elevation of the
temple to that extent. It is now clear that the temple once stood on a
comparatively higher and far more imposing elevation than it stands at
present.
(3) The granite plateau which underlies the soil upon which the temple
is built is irregular, and resembles on a larger scale the granite
plateaux which extend eastward from the temple.[51]
CHAPTER X
THE ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE
(_Continued_)
MAIN ENTRANCES
_North-West Entrance_
This entrance is on the north-west side of the temple at (606 ft. 6
in.) to (611 ft. 6 in.) inside, and [656 ft.] to [660 ft.] outside. As
in the case of _North and West Entrances_, the foundations of the main
wall are carried from side to side of the entrance and from the floor
of the passage, and in them the outer steps are built. The east side
wall is 4 ft. wide where it starts to curve inwards to form the passage
and at 6 ft. above the floor of the entrance. The west side is 7 ft.
wide where it starts to round inwards and at 6 ft. above the entrance
floor.
Evidently this entrance was not of the importance of either of the
other two portals to the temple. No internal passages converge upon it;
it is less massive, and its purpose appears to have been limited to
serving as a communication with _No. 1 Ruins_ only, as a substantial
wall which encloses these ruins runs round to the north-west main wall
of the temple between [705 ft.] and [710 ft.], where it joins it at
right angles to the main walls. These enclosing walls thus cut off on
either side the exterior of the _North-West Entrance_ from the other
portions of the exterior of the temple, and in these enclosing walls no
signs have so far been discovered of there having been any entrances.
[Illustration: NORTH-WEST ENTRANCE, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE]
[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO PASSAGE, No. 10 ENCLOSURE, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE]
This entrance is built on well-curved lines, but the rounded faces
of the two side walls do not exactly face one another, since the
outside face of the west side projects some 12 in. further north than
that on the east side, the west wall being wider than the east one,
though on their inside faces they are flush with each other. There are
no buttresses on the outside of this entrance. The summits of the side
walls, some 6 ft. above the outside level, are less ruined than those
of the other two entrances; the gap between the two summits including
the width of the entrance is only 8 ft. 6 in., the broken faces of the
upper portions of the walls rising perpendicularly on either side.
[Illustration: North-West Entrance
ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE
N^{o.} 3 Enclosure]
This entrance is 2 ft. 9 in. wide in the centre. The wall on the west
side is perfect up to 5 ft. in height, and that on the east side to 6
ft. 6 in. There are two steps on the outer side, and these are formed
by the courses in the foundation being carried across the entrance and
curved inwards at the centre of the passage.
On either side of the entrance in the interior of the temple there are
plumb and angular buttresses of poor construction resting upon soft
soil. Each projects 5 ft. 6 in. into _No. 3 Enclosure_, and each is 1
ft. 9 in. high, the width between their straight faces being 2 ft. 8
in. Each buttress is rounded off on the outer side and joins the main
wall, that on the east side being 7 ft. long, and that on the west side
9 ft. 6 in. long.
When Bent arrived at Zimbabwe in 1891 he found this entrance built
up to a height of 9 ft. This had then been done some fifty years
previously by the Makalanga when the previous Mogabe Chipfuno was
only a boy. This walling-up was for the purpose of closing in _No. 3
Enclosure_, which was used as a cattle kraal. It is highly probable
that the Makalanga took the upper portions of the two buttresses which
are on either side of the inside of this entrance for building material
in so walling it up, for these buttresses, judging by the absence of
stone débris and the condition of the faces of the main wall where
the buttresses were once built up against it, appear to have been
deliberately denuded of their courses for at least some feet of their
original height.
Bent removed the walling-up, but left its foundation in the entrance
at 2 ft. below which the paved passage and steps were unburied in
September, 1902. This foundation of the Makalanga wall was laid across
a pile of blocks thrown promiscuously on to the floor of this entrance,
and this again rested on soil black with charcoal, decomposed vegetable
matter, and bones of buck split open for the marrow, and this débris
contained broken articles of Makalanga make, but of superior quality to
those made by them to-day.
_The North Entrance_
This entrance is in the north-east wall of the temple, and its exit
faces north-east, twenty-five degrees, and is situated between the (523
ft. 6 in.) and (536 ft.) points of the measurement of the inside base
of the main wall from the south side of the west entrance, and between
the [566 ft. 6 in.] and [571 ft. 6 in.] points of the measurement of
the outside base of the main wall from the south side of same entrance.
It has always been known as the North Entrance, as it is on the north
side of the centre of the temple. Bent terms it the North Entrance, as
do other writers, and in our description it will be so styled.
Its massive size and excellent construction exceed those of any
other known ancient entrance, unless it be the West Entrance, which,
however, at present remains uncleared, and, except for the dilapidation
of the higher portions of its rounded sides, it is certainly the
best-preserved entrance so far discovered at Zimbabwe. Until November,
1902, the existence of its symmetrical and massive steps was altogether
unsuspected, for these and the outer face of the entrance had been
buried to a depth of 5 ft. in débris, the major portion of which could
not have been disturbed for apparently many scores of years. The
opening out of this entrance and also of the walled-in area immediately
in front and to the north of it has revealed another leading
architectural feature in addition to those already known at this
temple. Photographs of the North Entrance, as it previously appeared,
now only represent the tops of the side walls of the entrance.
[Illustration: North or Main Entrance
ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE
Zimbabwe]
Though its outer side faces towards north-east, twenty-five degrees,
the entrance passage itself runs somewhat obliquely through the wall,
the south end being slightly more to the east than is the outer end,
and standing in the middle of the south end the line of passage further
to the north than does its outer face, and there is a view of the
eastern end of the Acropolis, the lower portion of which is at present
hidden by a pile of granite block débris removed from the interior of
the temple.
The main walls on either side of the entrance are exceedingly massive
and exceptionally well built, the entrance and steps forming a
handsome piece of dry masonry, which reveals the artistic plan and
bold conception of the ancient architects, admirably executed by the
builders. On the east side the wall is 15 ft. 6 in. wide at the points
where the main wall starts to curve in forming the east side of the
entrance, and this measurement is taken at 13 ft. above the level of
the outside area. On the west side the main wall is 14 ft. 6 in. wide
at the points where the wall starts to curve in forming the west side
of this entrance, this measurement being taken at 12 ft. above the
level of the outside area.
The entrance passage is 15 ft. 9 in. long. It is 7 ft. 10 in. wide at
the foot of the steps on the north side, and 12 ft. wide at the south
end between those points on either side where the walls start to curve
in forming the entrance. The steps occupy 4 ft. 4 in. of the north end
of the length of the passage, and the rest is paved level; but at the
south end the flooring is slightly uneven owing to roots having moved
some of the paving blocks. The level at the south end terminates in a
step-down, which runs from the south face of one side wall to the south
face of the other side wall. The present heights of the reduced
walls of the entrance are: east side, 7 ft. 6 in.; west side, 6 ft. 10
in.
[Illustration: EXTERIOR OF NORTH ENTRANCE TO ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE
(DISCOVERED 1903)]
There are six rows of steps each 7 in. high, and each row in its centre
recedes 10 in. beyond the one below it, the row curving inwards at its
centre. The walls on either side of this entrance are not separate
walls, but a common foundation runs under both, forming the floor of
the passage, which floor is 3 ft. 4 in. higher than the level of the
outer area.
The steps are formed by the courses of blocks of the outer face of the
wall on one side passing to the outer face of the wall on the opposite
side, where they are continued, making a curve inwards, each curve
receding with mathematical precision behind the curve in front. The
courses on either side assume a fan-like form, thus making the curved
courses of the steps wider in the middle than on the sides. The steps
were built before the side walls of the passage were erected, and their
marvellous regularity demonstrates the foresight of the builders. The
end blocks of each row are partly built into the walls on either side.
The courses in the main wall at this point are remarkably even and
correct, the courses on the one side corresponding with the courses on
the other. These steps are identical in measurement with all steps, so
far discovered, found built in any ancient wall of the oldest type of
ruin, and are of altogether different construction from those of the
angular and terraced ruins of the later period in which the angular
side walls of an entrance are first erected, and the steps afterwards
built in between them.
Bent frequently refers to this entrance as the main entrance of the
temple. In so doing he is in all probability correct, though many of
the facts concerning it, which give it an importance not possessed by
either of the other two entrances, were then unknown to him. These were
discovered in November, 1902. But the fact that three passages—Parallel
Passage, Inner Parallel Passage, and South Passage—all converge
on this entrance shows that it must have possessed considerable
importance. But the recent clearing away of the débris to a depth of
some 6 ft. has revealed the lower portion of the entrance with its
well-constructed flight of steps, as well as the admirably proportioned
structure of the entrance, which can now be seen to be by far the
finest entrance to the temple.
But the further discovery in November, 1902, of the long-buried
North-East Passage, and the clearing out of the Outer Parallel Passage,
both of which converge on the outer face of this entrance, have
disclosed the fact that an even greater importance attached to this
entrance than Bent or Sir John Willoughby could have supposed, for the
existence of the North-East Passage was unknown to them, seeing that
the summits of its side walls were buried at least 2 ft. under the
veld. This passage, with buried enclosures on either hand, has now been
cleared out for 108 yds., with traces of an extension for a further
70 yds. in a direct line towards the south-east Ancient Ascent to the
Acropolis, and as the large area, known as the “Valley of Ruins,” lies
along this route, and is connected with the passage by numerous side
passages and openings, the importance of the North Entrance is very
considerably enhanced, and Bent’s conjecture is shown to be fully
confirmed.
_Western Entrance_
This is the second largest entrance to the temple, and would appear
to have been of some importance. It is by the _West Entrance_ that
visitors now usually enter the building. The gateway opens directly
into _No. 5 Enclosure_.
The entrance is situated between [827 ft. 9 in.] and [831 ft. 9 in.] on
the line of the measurement of the circumference of the exterior of the
building, which starts on the south side of the entrance, and between
(763 ft. 6 in.) and (766 ft. 6 in.) on the line of the measurement
of the circumference of the interior of the main wall, which also
starts on the south side of this entrance. (See _Main Wall_.)
[Illustration: SUMMIT OF SOUTH-EAST MAIN WALL, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE]
[Illustration: WEST ENTRANCE FROM INTERIOR, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE]
The south side is formed by the boldly rounded end of the main
wall, which is here reduced in height to 7 ft. 6 in., or including
foundations to 11 ft. The reduced summit is 6 ft. 6 in. wide, and has
a batter of 8 in. At 10 ft. from the side wall the main wall rises
abruptly from 7 ft. to 22 ft.
The north side is formed by the main wall, which has a rounded end. Its
height is 8 ft., but rises sharply to 20 ft. The reduced summit is 6
ft. wide, and there is a batter of 10 in. on the face of the side wall.
The passage-way is 4 ft. 2 in. wide between the rounded ends of the two
walls, and it has a total length of 20 ft. 6 in., 9 ft. 6 in. being
over the foundation and 11 ft. over the semi-circular platform, which
supports the two rounded buttresses on the inner side of the entrance.
Unlike the _Main Entrance_ this passage passes through the wall at
right angles.
The semi-circular platform projects into _No. 5 Enclosure_ for 11 ft.,
and upon it, and on either side of the entrance, are two buttresses,
that on the south side being 9 ft. high and 10 ft. wide at the back;
the one on the south side being very much dilapidated is now only 6 ft.
high on the north side and 6 ft. wide at back. These buttresses and the
platform are one structure, the courses in the buttresses are carried
across the passage in a semi-circular form, thus forming steps.
The problem as to the entrance having ever been covered over is at
present an open one, and there is much to be said on either side. The
old men of the Amangwa state that it once had wooden beams across, and
that the entrance was blocked up with stones. The _North-West Entrance_
was in 1891 found by Bent, who reopened it, to have also been built
up at a very late date, and so completely blocked. (See _Entrances_,
Chapter VII.)
On the exterior, and on either side of the entrance, stood, till 1903,
very large débris heaps, each of which was at least 8 ft. high and
many yards in circumference. These on being removed were found to
represent several distinct occupations of the temple, and two-thirds of
their height was accounted for by native occupations and the removal
by explorers of débris from the interior of the building. The native
portion contained ashes and bones in large quantities, iron assegai
heads, hoes, brass and iron wire bangles, clay whorls, and ordinary
native pottery. Some few small relics were found in the soil which
had been taken from the temple. In the lowest portion, which was not
thicker than 18 in., were found phalli, splinters of soapstone beams,
excellent pottery, gold crucibles, beaten gold and gold wire. There
were several layers of ashes, but very few animal bones. The two heaps
had been piled up against the main wall.
CHAPTER XI
THE ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE
(_Continued_)
ENCLOSURES NOS. 1 TO 7
NO. 1 ENCLOSURE
This enclosure is on the north side of the temple, the outer face of
its north-eastern wall being 18 ft. south-west of the _North Entrance_.
This is the most perfect of all the enclosures. It is roughly circular,
and there are no angular features in the body of the wall, though both
entrances have their outer corners squared. The area is: north to south
56 ft. 6 in., and east to west 55 ft. 6 in.
The average height of the walls all round the enclosure is 7 ft. above
the present surface of the filled-in area. At the north-east end the
summit of the wall is 11 ft. above the bottom of an old hole excavated
at that point, and in the hole the foundation is exposed. On the
north-west side the summit of the wall is 9 ft. above the red cemented
floor of an old Makalanga hut which had solid clay sides.
The walls are very substantial, being 5 ft. 6 in. wide and 4 ft. and 5
ft. above the surface of the area, as it was before clearing operations
were commenced.
There are two entrances, one on the north side and the other on the
east side.
The north entrance leads from _No. 3 Enclosure_, and is 2 ft. 6 in.
wide, and its walls are rounded on the inside and angular on the
outside, the side walls being between 3 ft. and 4 ft. high. There are
four rows of steps, somewhat rudely constructed, each being about 10
in. from front to back. A small parapet wall carries the steps from the
lower level of _No. 3 Enclosure_.
The walls of the east entrance are rounded on the inside and angular
on the outside. The entrance is 2 ft. wide, 5 ft. long, with a level
floor for this length, the foundation being carried across the opening,
and the walls on either side are 4 ft. high. There is one step inside
at the end of the 5-ft. length, and one step outside from the floor of
_South Passage_. There are no portcullis grooves to this entrance. On
the inside of this entrance is a stone platform which might once have
carried buttresses.
This enclosure has been subjected to the filling-in process more than
any other enclosure of the temple, probably because of its proximity
to the _North-West Entrance_ through which the material could easily
have been brought in from outside. On the present surface there are
remains of an old Makalanga hut, which must be more than sixty years
old, seeing that the Makalanga have not resided in the temple for over
that period. At a depth of from 1 ft. 6 in. to 2 ft. below this surface
the remains of a still very much older Makalanga hut have been exposed.
This was constructed of red clay, beautifully polished, the flooring
being on a very true level. This class of old huts had their clay
sides altogether independent of the roof, which was supported by poles
inserted at a distance of some inches from the outside of the walls.
(See _Architecture_—_Makalanga Huts_.)
The only “finds” made here were fragments of large soapstone bowls
carved with herring-bone and cord patterns, small clay animals, assegai
heads, and pottery of old, but not ancient, design or make, and
comparatively recent native pottery.
A drain passes through the west wall of this enclosure, and has a fall
into _No. 3 Enclosure_.
Bent stated that this enclosure was not a portion of the original
building. There are indications that this conjecture is correct. The
walls are built without any regularity in courses and of stones of all
shapes and sizes, the west wall crossing over the foundations of an
older wall.
NO. 2 ENCLOSURE
This is a pear-shaped enclosure at the north-north-west side of the
temple, and is built up immediately against the main outer wall from
(530 ft.) to (578 ft.), and is on the west side of the _North Entrance_.
It is 47 ft. long from south-east to north-east, and 13 ft. wide from
north-east to south-west at its broadest part.
From (560 ft.) to (565 ft.) the main wall is considerably broken,
having fallen outwards. It is between these points that there is a
narrow break in the foundations, which supports the view regarding the
reconstruction of the western wall at a later ancient period, a matter
dealt with in the description of the main wall, and in the Preface.
This enclosure has only one entrance, and this is at the south-east
end. It has rounded walls, is 8 ft. long, 2 ft. 2 in. wide, and the
wall on the south-west is 4 ft. high, and that on the north-east side 7
ft. high. The floor of this enclosure is between 2 ft. and 3 ft. below
the floor of the adjoining _North Entrance_, and there is one stone and
one cement step in the entrance passage of this enclosure.
A substantial wall, 4 ft. to 8 ft. high, and 4 ft. wide at 4 ft. from
the ground, but evidently of later construction, is on the south side,
and separates this enclosure from _No. 3 Enclosure_, but it has a deep
depression on its summit, and is very considerably ruined for about 20
ft.
There is a drain-hole through the main wall at (545 ft.).
This enclosure has suffered very considerably at the hands of
unauthorised searchers for ancient gold relics, some of the flooring
having been torn up, and the foundations of part of the southern wall
have been undermined.
Here in a débris heap was found the large plain flat-rimmed soapstone
bowl which was lent by the late Rt. Hon. C. J. Rhodes to the South
African Museum at Cape Town.
NO. 3 ENCLOSURE
This is the most north-westerly enclosure of the temple, the north-west
main wall from (590 ft.) to (660 ft.) forming its north-westerly
boundary. The south side is formed by _No. 1 Enclosure_, the west by
_No. 4 Enclosure_, and the north and east by _No. 2 Enclosure_.
The area is keystone-shaped, being 76 ft. long on its north-west side,
45 ft. 6 in. on its west side, 71 ft. on the south side, and 50 ft. 6
in. on the north and east side.
The _North-West Entrance_ to the temple is at (606 ft. 6 in.) to (611
ft. 6 in.) on the north-west side of the enclosure. (See _Main Wall,
North-West Entrance_, for description.)
The entrance in the west wall between _Nos. 3 and 4 Enclosures_ was not
at the present gap in the débris of this wall, as the gap was made for
the convenience of visitors. The foundations of this wall end abruptly
at 25 ft. from its east end, this portion of the wall being in a fairly
good condition for 14 ft., and being from 3 ft. to 6 ft. high.
The entrance to _No. 1 Enclosure_ is in the south wall at 45 ft. to 49
ft. from the west wall.
The east entrance has rounded sides, is 2 ft. wide, and the side walls
are 4 ft. high. This entrance leads from _South Passage_, and is
immediately inside the _North Entrance_ to the temple.
A drain from _No. 1 Enclosure_ is in the angle formed by the west and
south walls.
Possibly this enclosure was once subdivided, but when mediæval and even
later Makalanga occupied the temple for their residence and cattle
kraal the sub-divisional walls were removed. That this portion of
the temple was used for this purpose is demonstrated both by “finds”
and the condition of the enclosure, and these support the native
assertion to this effect. The remains of a wall runs north-west from
the south-west corner of the enclosure towards the west side of the
_North-West Entrance_. This is 16 ft. long, 2 ft. high, and 3 ft. 6 in.
wide. A second wall is believed to have once stood between the west
side of the entrance to _No. 1 Enclosure_ and the north and east side
wall.
[Illustration: Nos. 3 & 4 ENCLOSURES AND WEST MAIN WALL, ELLIPTICAL
TEMPLE]
At (640 ft.) is a long granite slab, which has evidently fallen from
the summit of the main wall. Probably it was a tie or “through” stone,
as the summit of the main wall had been bonded with similar stones.
In the angle formed by the north-east and north-west walls are
the remains of a large rounded buttress now only 2 ft. high.
Possibly this might be one of the platforms with “blind steps” (see
_Architecture_—_Blind Steps_) which are found in the angles in several
of the temple enclosures.
This enclosure appears to have been filled in with stones and earth at
a very late period, as the filling-in contains at all depths portions
of Makalanga pottery and lumps of iron slag. The ancient floor is
believed to be some 2 ft. below the present surface.
NO. 4 ENCLOSURE
This is the most westerly of the temple enclosures. Its form resembles
that of a keystone with the broad side on the west main wall, along the
inside of which it extends for 67 ft. from (666 ft.) to (730 ft.)
It is bounded on the north side by the divisional wall separating
it from _No. 3 Enclosure_, and this side is 47 ft. 6 in. long. This
wall extends from the outer face of the west portion of the wall of
_No. 1 Enclosure_ for 14 ft., from which it is in a good state of
preservation, except for reduction in height, it being now only between
4 ft. and 6 ft., while the rest of the wall is ruined, and is lost in a
line of débris which marks where the wall once stood. At the west end
of this débris are a few blocks still retaining their position, and
these show where the north wall joined the main wall. As on the north
side of this wall, where there is now no trace of entrance between
_Nos. 2 and 3 Enclosures_, so is it on its south side, where the face
of the wall is even more ruined than on the opposite side.
On the south side this enclosure is bounded by the divisional wall
between it and _No. 5 Enclosure_. This wall is 58 ft. long, and bends
southwards in the middle of its length for 5 ft. from a line between
the two extremities of the wall. At the east end of the wall it is 6
ft. high for 5 ft. in length, when it is reduced to 2 ft. with débris
3 ft. higher lying along the summit. The west end of the wall is very
poorly built, and as this enclosure has also been used by the Makalanga
as a cattle kraal, probably finding the wall broken down at its
western end, they rebuilt it in order to keep in the cattle. The wall
throughout is built on a raised cement foundation only slightly wider
than the wall itself.
Though there is at present no trace of any entrance between this and
_No. 5 Enclosure_, there are reasons for believing that traces of one
may be discovered near the spot where a large fig tree grows on the
line of wall.
The east side is 33 ft. in length, and is formed for 10 ft. from the
north side by the west outer face of the wall of _No. 1 Enclosure_,
which is here 11 ft. high; for the following 12 ft. by the opening into
the _West Passage_ which runs parallel to the south-west and west sides
of _No. 1 Enclosure_; and for 13 ft. by the outer and west face of the
_West Passage_, the wall of which is 10 ft. high, and is well built,
substantial, and in a good state of preservation.