the house of Dr. Griffin, situated on an eminence, and a banqueting-room
erected by the inhabitants of the place, appeared above the town on the
left.
The town of Monmouth lies too low to form a grand appearance from the
water, but is, in itself, neat and well-built, and pleasantly situated on
the banks of the Wye. As we repaired to our inn, we were both
involuntarily led to take a retrospect of the past amusements of the day.
The partial gleams of sunshine had given additional tints to the rich and
bold scenery, and every thing had conspired to render it a most
interesting aquatic excursion. The variety of scenes which Claude would
have selected, had he now existed, for his canvass; with rapture, too,
would he have caught the tints, and with the happiest effect combined the
objects into a picture; kept up our attention, and removed that sameness
which too often accompanies water excursions. Such has been the pleasure
of our first day’s water expedition; and from the impression it made on
us we eagerly looked forward to some future period when we may again
retrace views which memory will ever hold dear, and the pleasure be then
redoubled with the remembrance of past occurrences.
Opposite the Beaufort Arms, the most convenient inn in the town, is the
town-house, handsomely built, with a full length statue on the outside,
facing the street, with this inscription under it: “Henry the Fifth, born
at Monmouth, August the ninth, 1387.” On the birth of this warlike and
virtuous prince, the charter was granted to the town of Monmouth; it is
governed by a mayor, two bailiffs, fifteen aldermen, nine constables, two
serjeants, and two beadles. The castle now bears few vestiges of its
former grandeur; and of the regal dome, scarcely a wreck has escaped,
through the long lapse of years, and the ravages of time: where a mighty
king once gave audience, and where vassals knelt, now assemble the
animate appendages of a farm-yard.
Near the castle is a very antiquated house, now converted into a school,
the property of the Duke of Beaufort. To this town Wihenoc de Monemue,
or Monmouth, in the reign of Henry the First, brought over a convent of
Black Monks from St. Florence, and placed them first in the church of St.
Cadoc near the castle, and after in the church of St. Mary. It was among
other ancient priories seized by the crown during the wars with France,
but was restored again, made denison, and continued till the general
suppression in the reign of King Henry the Eighth. {295} From hence we
walked to the church-yard; close to which is the room where Geoffery of
Monmouth composed his well-known history: this is now a day-school.
Monmouth has likewise to boast of a free-school founded here from the
following curious circumstance: Mr. Jones, a native of Newland, being in
distress, left this parish, and went to London, where he engaged himself
as servant to a Hamburgh merchant, and proving trusty in his office, he
was by degrees advanced, till at length he attained a fortune of his own.
Willing to prove how far the charity of his native place would extend
towards him, in disguise he applied for that relief which he was enabled
to show towards others; but his parish taking no notice of him, referred
him to Monmouth, and would not redress his pretended complaints; the
latter, however, being more charitably disposed, relieved him according
to his wishes. Having thus proved their generosity, he acquainted them
of his real situation, and promised to repay their kindness by obliging
them in any demand they should request. On this they solicited the
foundation of a free-school, which he immediately built, liberally
endowed, and which, from that time, has been well supported. The walk to
the Folly, we were informed, would have afforded us some beautiful and
extensive prospects; the whole of which information we should probably
have found true, but the evening closing we were very reluctantly
necessitated to return to our inn.
Early in the morning we renewed our survey of Monmouth. The church first
demanded notice: it is a handsome structure, but the inside offers
nothing remarkable for the inspection of the antiquary. The gaol, built
after the plan of the benevolent Howard, is situated in a healthy spot;
and in every respect rendered as commodious and comfortable as such a
place will allow for the unfortunate inhabitants. Monmouth, indeed,
contains several good houses, and the neighbourhood is respectable. A
bridge at the extremity of the town, with the ancient gateway, bears
every mark of antiquity.
The hire of a boat from Monmouth to Chepstow is on the same plan as from
Ross to Monmouth, the distance being nearly equal. Nothing now remained
but to recommence our water excursion; and we accordingly embarked a
quarter of a mile below the town, where the river Monnow joins itself
with the Wye; from hence Monnow-mouth, or Monmouth. The weather still
continued favourable for our schemes: the banks on the left were at first
low, but as we receded from the town, the spire of Monmouth in the
retrospect, with the Kymin Woods rising from a rock of great height on
our left, under which the river meanders, and to our right Pen-y-vall
Hill engaged our attention, and was the bold and rich scenery we enjoyed
on our first re-embarkation.
The same scenery of rock, wood, and water, which so captivated us on the
preceding day, still continued, occasionally diversified by light vessels
skimming by our boat, and increasing in number as we approached nearer
the sea. The rude hail of the boatmen as they passed, was re-echoed by
the rocks; and the dingy white sails of the vessels, which soon
disappeared round some bold promontory, were particularly picturesque.
Coleman’s Rocks appeared alternately mantled with underwood and pointed
crags; large fragments scattered in the river here divide the counties of
Monmouth and Gloucester. At Redbrook Hills, the curling smoke issuing
from the iron-works formed a pleasing accompaniment to the scenery, and
the whole exhibited a picture of industrious labour. These works belong
to Mr. Turner: the wood and meadow-land of Whitebrook Hills were finely
contrasted with the busy scene at Redbrook. From hence a long reach,
with Fidenham Chase Hill rising conspicuously in the front, brought us to
the village of