Carlisle, and Conway are the only three British towns or cities that have
preserved their ancient walls anyways entire. Those of Chester are
nearly two miles in circumference, and sufficiently broad to afford room
for two persons to walk abreast; for this purpose they are now kept in
repair, affording an agreeable lounge, fresh air, and, from the different
sides, varied and extensive views.
The rows are another peculiarity belonging to Chester: the streets, which
are much broader than those of old towns or cities generally, are
considerably excavated: on this lower level are the warehouses, kitchens,
&c. and on the first floor, with galleries, or rows as they are termed,
in their front, are the shops. These galleries afford a covered walk for
foot passengers: they are inconvenient, particularly for ladies, as at
every crossing you have to descend and ascend the different steps: they
give an air of great singularity to the city.
Chester was formerly termed Caerleon Gawr, or Vawr, and was, during the
time of the Romans, the station of the twentieth legion. Numerous Roman
antiquities have been found here, such as altars, &c. and a _hypocaust_
or furnace for heating a sudatorium, was a short time back to be seen at
the Feathers’ inn.
The castle is situate at the north-west extremity of the city. It was
founded by Hugh Lupus, in the reign of William the Conqueror, and has
within these few years undergone considerable alterations. In it was
confined the beautiful, but unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots after her
defeat at Langside.
The cathedral is a heavy irregular pile of building, affording little
either within or without worthy of observation. It is built of bad
stone, on which the workmanship bestowed was quite good enough: it stands
on the site of the ancient Abbey of St. Werburgh. The altar-piece is a
fine specimen of tapestry, representing the history of Elymas the
sorcerer, taken from one of the Cartoons of Raphael.
The bishop’s palace, in the Abbey Court, is a handsome modern stone
building. The exchange, or town hall, is an elegant and useful fabric,
standing in the middle of the city. It is supported on columns, and
contains, as well as the common hall, assembly rooms, with every
convenience for the corporation meetings and entertainments. The shire
hall is a handsome stone building, with one of the most complete and
elegant court rooms in the kingdom. The new gaol is likewise a
well-constructed edifice, having five yards, and all the necessary
conveniences for a separation of prisoners.
Anxious to view the superb seat of the Earl of Grosvenor, Eton Hall, we
did not afford that time to examine this ancient city which it merited;
it will not, therefore, be right for the tourist to be satisfied with
this as a guide to its antiquities, but rather to purchase the local one,
which will afford every information.