standing on a rock, so picturesquely alluded to in the Bard of Gray.
“On a rock, whose haughty brow,
Frown’d o’er old Conway’s foaming flood,
Robed in a sable garb of woe,
With haggard eyes the poet stood.”
The castle, built by Edward I., is a magnificent fortress, in the form of
a parallelogram.
An air of proud sublimity, united with singular wildness, characterises
the place. The evening was far advanced; and part of its ruins were
shining with the purple glow of the setting sun, whose remaining features
stood in darkened majesty, when we entered this monument of desolation.
Passing over a plank, originally the site of the drawbridge, we came into
the outward court, strongly defended with battlements; from thence we
examined the grand entrance of the castle, with several abutments
projecting forward, similar in style to Caernarvon. On the south side of
the court is the grand hall, measuring an hundred and thirty feet by
thirty-two, with eight light Gothic arches, five of which are still in
good condition. At one end is the chapel, with a large window, a
beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture. It was founded on the solid
rock, by Edward I. in the year 1284; the walls are from eleven to fifteen
feet thick: all the towers are defended by small round ones, projecting
two or three feet over, with a regular communication round the whole
castle by galleries, on the same plan as at Caernarvon. The steps are
decayed and broken, and the looseness of the stones rendered a footing
very insecure; but, impelled by an irresistible curiosity, we ascended
the most perfect tower, and an extensive prospect presented itself to our
view. The foundation of one of the principal towers, looking towards a
small river, which here joins the Conway, has lately given way, and torn
down with it part of the building; the remainder now hangs in an
extraordinary manner. The whole town is enclosed with strong walls, and
defended by a number of towers, which communicate with the castle by a
gallery; there are likewise several gateways at certain distances.
The ancient church next attracted our attention, but did not detain us
long, as the monuments for the Wynnes are the only things worthy of
inspection, except the following inscription, which is engraved on a flat
stone, in the nave of the church: “Here lyeth the body of Nicholas
Hookes, of Conway, gent., who was the 41st child of his father, William
Hookes, Esq. by Alice, his wife, and father of 27 children; who died the
20th day of March, 1637.” Few districts in the world can, perhaps,
produce a record similar to the preceding.
From thence we surveyed the remains of the college, which in the reign of
King Edward I. was intended for the instruction of youth. It is now in
complete ruins: the workmanship curious, with several sculptured arms.
In this town is an ancient house, built in the form of a quadrangle, by
the Wynnes, in the time of Queen Elizabeth, now inhabited by poor
families. The house is adorned after the fantastical fashion of the
times in which it was erected; the roof is singularly carved, and the
front decorated with the arms of England, with several curious crests,
birds, and beasts: it bears the date of the year 1585. The arms of
Elizabeth are carved over the door, fronting the street.
The river Conway has been celebrated from the earliest period of British
history, for its pearl fishery. Pliny asserts that Julius Cæsar
dedicated to Venus Genetrix, in her temple at Rome, a breast-plate, set
with British pearls; and other authorities go so far as to assign the
desire to get possession of these jewels, as one of the reasons of his
invading the British isles. The shell in which they are found is called
the pearl muscle, and is the same which by Linnæus is termed Mya
Margaritifera.
The fish, which generate these concretions, are considered in a sickly
state; and it is said that on their being squeezed, they can and will
eject them, which they occasionally do spontaneously on the sands. I am
given to understand, that a very considerable trade is carried on by an
individual, very snugly, at this very day, in pearls collected from the
Conway and adjacent coast. Some years ago, Sir Robert Vaughan appeared
at court with a button and loop in his hat, set with pearls from the
Conway; and Mr. Edward Llwyd says, that the pearls found here are as
large and as well coloured as any in Great Britain.
“Immediately at the foot of the castle,” says a recent traveller, {226}
“a suspension-bridge is thrown over the previously dangerous ferry, in
the erection of which great taste has been exhibited. Castellated towers
support the chains, and where the road enters the town, a toll-house, in
the shape of a dilapidated tower, has been erected, which perfectly
harmonizes with the view around it, and taken altogether, the bridge
seems to be the draw-bridge of the castle, and does not detract from the
antique grandeur of the scene. Mr. Telford is the architect of this, as
well as of the Menai Bridge; and though it possesses nothing of the
immense proportions, it is equally elegant and well adapted to its
situation.”
Edward the First made this a free borough. It is now governed by one
alderman, a recorder, coroner, water-bailiff, and two serjeants-at-mace,
chosen annually, and is a contributory borough with Caernarvon, Pwllheli,
Nevin, and Criccaeth, in returning a member to parliament. Its market is
on Friday.
The usual route, and the one which we intended to pursue, laying by St.
Asaph and Chester, we determined first to explore some of the beauties of
the vale of Conway; and with this object in view, took the road leading
to Llanwrst: it possesses the charming varieties of wood, water, and a
richly cultivated country, backed by mountain scenery. We soon reached
Caer Rhun, the site of the ancient Conovium of the Romans, where the
tenth legion were stationed. The late Rev. Hugh Davies Griffith, vicar
of the parish, and a gentleman well known for his antiquarian researches,
traced out here the remains of a Roman pottery: many utensils of various
sorts had previously been found, mostly imperfect, some well designed and
very curious. Amongst other things found here, was a small brazen
circular shield, of curious workmanship, embossed, a little more than a
foot in diameter, and with a projecting pike of wrought iron, of about
four inches and a-half, placed in the centre; it had circles of brass
studs, and appeared to have been lined with leather and stuffed with
hair. Numerous Roman coins were likewise found, and near this is a hill,
called Mynydd Caer Leon, or the _Hill of the Legion_. Mr. Williams says,
“This legion was denominated Antoniana Augusta. The XXth, stationed at
Chester, (Caer Lleon Gawr, or Caer Lleion ar Ddyfrdwy), was distinguished
by the name of Vicessima Victrix: and the Second Legion, stationed at
Caer Leon, in Monmouthshire, or Caer Lleon ar Wysc, was known by the
title of Augusta Britannica. There was, no doubt, a Roman road from
hence to Segontium, on the west, and to Varium or Bodvarri and Caerwys on
the east, and another probably through Dolyddelen, to Sarn Helen and
Tommen y Mur, in Merionethshire; Pen y street, Dolgelly, Castell y Beri,
near Tal y Llynn, to Penal, near Machynlleth, where there was a Roman
encampment, and where very considerable remains were discovered.”
The next object worthy of attention is Rhaiadr Mawr, or the Great
Waterfall, about seven miles from Conway; Mr. Bingley’s account of which
is so correct and spirited, that I shall give it verbatim. “I ascended
along a winding path, which, after about a quarter of an hour’s walk,
conducted me to the bed of the river, near the station from whence it was
to be seen to the greatest advantage. The water, from the late dry
weather, was very inconsiderable; still, however, the scene was highly
picturesque. From the upper part two streams descended at some distance
from each other. The range of rock, down which the water was thrown, was
very wide and extremely rude, being formed in horizontal ledges, into
deep clefts and enormous chasms. On the various lodgments of the rocks
were numerous pendant shrubs. The dark shades of the clefts, and the
irregular brilliancy of the prominent features of the scene, from the
reflected rays of the sun, contrasted again with the foaming of the
water, were truly grand. The colours of the rock, which were every where
also very dark, were rich and highly varied. The streams united a little
above the middle of the fall: they rushed from thence in foam over the
rocks, and, from the deep shelvings, in many places the water was
entirely hidden from me below. In addition to this, nearly every
different stratum of rock threw it into a fresh direction. In the whole
scene there was the utmost irregularity. On the right of the cataract,
the enclosing rocks were nearly perpendicular, very lofty, and crowned
with pendant foliage. Those on the left were very high and towering,
adorned on the lodgments with grass and ferns. I should have made a
drawing of this cataract, had it been possible to have expressed it with
any justice on an octavo plate; this, however, was altogether impossible.
The above description is expressed in terms infinitely too feeble to give
any correct idea of the scene. This waterfall appeared to me by much the
most grand and picturesque of any that I have seen in North Wales.
“In descending to the road, I had an extensive view along the whole vale
of Conway. It appeared from this eminence to be much varied, and on the
whole very beautiful.”
Besides this, many other waterfalls and cascades, along this charming
river, will amply repay this digression, and entice the tourist forward
to its junction with the Lledr and Machno. Near Llanwrst, Gwydir-house
and woods, and at that place, the church, and the famous bridge, built by
Inigo Jones, will engage his attention. Beyond the vale is beautiful and
romantic, far exceeding my powers of description; all that wood, water,
and the most rugged rocks, and picturesque mountain scenery can do to
delight the lovers of nature, heightened by the relief of a highly
cultivated country, interspersed with gentlemen’s seats, frequently
breaking on the view, are here amply afforded them. Proceeding up the
vale, and through Gwydir woods, you reach Bettws y Coed; thence to the
new iron Waterloo-bridge over the Conway, on the great Irish road, visit
the falls of the Conway and Machno, return to Bettws, proceed up the
Lligwy to view the Rhaidar y Wennol, or Cataract of the Swallow, which,
when it possesses its customary body of water, is truly tremendous. In
going from hence to the excellent inn at Capel-Curig, by making a circuit
of about four or five miles to the southward, you may visit Dolwyddelan
Castle, the residence of Meredith ap Jevan, before mentioned in the
account of Llyn. From Capel-Curig, proceeding towards Bangor, till the
road nearly reaches the river Ogwen, he may with labour and difficulty
trace the old Roman road, from Segontium to Conovium, or, without any
risk of satiety, retread his steps by Llanwrst to Conway.
The trade of Conway consists in the exportation of slate and copper from
the Llandidno mines, from whence the finest specimens of Malachite copper
is brought. The town and castle of Conway are seen to great advantage in
crossing the river, which is here about half a mile over, and at high
water washes the walls of that massy ruin: in the middle of the channel
is a small rocky island. We observed from this situation the two castles
called Bodscallan and Dyganwy; the small remains of the latter stand on a
high rock above the river: the former is a beautiful seat of the Mostyns.
Crossing the ferry we determined on exploring the Criddin, a Commot, or
Hundred of Caernarvonshire, at the extremity of which is that noted
landmark, the Great Orme’s Head. This commot is supposed to contain some
of the best arable and meadow land in this part of the principality; the
shores and cliffs likewise afford excellent limestone, and pebbles for
paving; both of which are shipped in large quantities for Liverpool and
other markets. Dyganwy, or Dinas Gonwy, _The Fort of the Conway_, was
once the residence of Maelgwyn Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales, who here
held his court. The following anecdote of which, as connected with
Taliesin, the British Bard, I shall give the heads of from Mr. Bingley:
“Gwyddno Garanhir, brother of Maelgwyn, who likewise resided in the
neighbourhood, had near his residence a weir, called Gored Wyddno,
_Gwyddno’s Weir_, which is even yet known by the same name, and
belongs to Sir Thomas Mostyn, as owner of the house of Bodscallon.
Elphin, the son of Gwyddno, was an extravagant youth; and at one time
he had so greatly exhausted his finances, that he was compelled, as a
temporary relief, to ask his father the benefit of the weir for a
single night. The request was complied with, but not a single fish
was caught. {231} A leathern basket was however taken up, which, on
examination, was found to contain a child. This was an unfortunate
circumstance to one so much in want of even a successful tide.
Elphin had, however, the humanity to direct that the child should be
taken care of, and that no expense should be spared in his education.
The youth, who was named Taliesin, was introduced by Elphin at his
father’s court; and his first step towards fame was in reciting there
a poem containing the history of his life, called Hanes Taliesin.
Maelgwyn Gwynedd was greatly surprised at his talent, and himself
became afterwards his patron. Some time after this a dispute took
place at Diganwy, betwixt Elphin and his father, of so serious a
nature, as to cause the former to be thrown into prison. His
attentions to Taliesin now proved of the utmost importance to him.
The bard addressed to the prince a poem on his patron, which excited
his commiseration, and caused him to issue an immediate order for
Elphin’s release. Taliesin continued to receive, throughout the
whole of his life, the attentions, the admirations, and the applause
which his talents justly merited; and after his death, he was
honoured with the appellation of _The Prince of the British Bards_.”
Gloddaith woods particularly, and most part of this small district,
afford considerable amusement to the botanist; as will the libraries of
Sir Thomas Mostyn, Bart. at Gloddaith and Bodysgallen, to the antiquarian
and the historian. The former of these seats was built in the reign of
Queen Elizabeth; since which period both mansion and furniture have
experienced but trifling alterations.
The tremendous precipice on the west side of the Ormshead is worthy of a
visit. The sea view is very extensive, and generally enlivened by the
passing of Liverpool shipping; you likewise command a view of the Isle of
Man, and occasionally views of the Irish, Lancashire, and the distant
haze of the Scottish coast. The sea birds frequent these cliffs and
shores in great abundance, more particularly gulls, razor-bills, and
guillemots, corvorants, herons, and the peregrine falcon; the latter of
which, in the days of falconry, were held in such high estimation, that
the celebrated Lord Burleigh sent a letter of thanks for a present of a
cast of hawks from this place to an ancestor of Sir Thomas Mostyn’s.
Unprotected by any shelter, on the summit of the high promontory, stands
the small church of Llandudno, but little famous for any thing but its
singular situation, and its service as a beacon. Proceeding along the
mail-road, with the sea on our left, and low rocks on our right, nothing
particular attracted our attention, till in descending a hill about two
miles from the neat bathing-town of