called in Welsh _Caergybi_, situated on an island at the western
extremity of Anglesea. It has lately changed its aspect from a poor
fishing village to a decent looking town, in consequence of its being the
chief resort for passengers to and from Dublin. The distance across the
channel is about fifty-five miles; and there are sailing packets which
daily cross the channel, with the mail and government despatches.
[Picture: North Wales Map]
In addition to these, government has placed steam packets on this
station: the two I have had the pleasure of seeing are the finest and
most complete vessels of their tonnage I ever beheld. Each vessel has
two cabins, beautifully fitted up, light and airy; and every thing
appears to have been attended to, that can either add to the comfort or
safety of the passengers: expense has not been spared for that which was
useful, and conducive to safety; and the equipment having been
superintended by Captain Rogers, an experienced officer, on the Holyhead
station, nothing has been misapplied. The passage is effected in from
five and a half to seven hours, a distance of fifty-five miles; and the
letters are delivered in Dublin from London in the short space of forty
hours.
In short, the attention which government has evinced to facilitate the
communication between the two kingdoms merits every praise. Neither
exertion nor expense have been spared in improving the roads from
Shrewsbury to Holyhead, which improvements have been executed under the
direction of Mr. Telford, who is now commencing on that from Chester to
the above place; and when the suspension bridge over Conway Ferry
(towards which, parliament has voted a grant of 40,000_l._) shall be
completed, in addition to that over the Menai at Bangor Ferry, but few
passengers will run the risk of a dilatory and dangerous passage by
Liverpool or Parkgate, when they may have a certain and a safe one by
Holyhead, with excellent roads and accommodation; and without the trouble
of the ferries, which were formerly an inconvenience to persons taking
this route.
Near the centre of the town, on a rock close above the sea, is a church,
on the site where _St. Cybi_, in A.D. 380, founded a small monastery,
which, in 580, was converted into a college by _Maelgwyn Gwynedd_, or,
according to some, by _Hwfa ap Cynddelw_, Lord of Llifon, one of the
fifteen tribes of North Wales. James I. granted this college to Francis
Morris and Francis Phillips, which afterwards became the property of Rice
Gwyn, Esq. who bestowed the great tithes on Jesus College, Oxford, for
the maintenance of two fellows and two scholars: from that time the
parish has been served by a curate nominated by the College. This church
is a handsome embattled edifice, built in the form of a cross, with this
inscription, on a pediment of the north transept: “_Sancte Kyb. ora pro
nobis_.” The walls of the church-yard are seventeen feet high, six feet
thick, and form a quadrangle; three sides of which are evidently Roman,
although ascribed to _Caswallon Lawpir_, a chieftain of Anglesea, in the
fifth century: the east side is a modern low wall on the verge of the
cliffs.
A fine extensive pier is now nearly completed, on an island called
_Ynys-halen_, which forms the north side of the harbour; at the extremity
of which, is a fine light-house, exhibiting a brilliant light by oil gas.
This grand national undertaking has already afforded an asylum to the
trade of the Channel: no less than sixty or eighty vessels have entered
the harbour in one day, and many more have sailed out in one time.
Before the erection of the pier, which commenced in 1809, many valuable
vessels, seeking for shelter in stormy weather, were lost with their
crews on the southern shores of the harbour. From this port are sent
upwards of 40,000 bushels of excellent grain every year. It contains
4071 inhabitants.
Under the mountain which overhangs the town, called the Head, is a large
cavern, supported by natural huge pillars, named the Parliament House:
this, as well as several others, perforate deep into the mountain, and is
inaccessible without a boat. The South Slack light-house, on an islet,
within about twenty yards of the bold cliffs of the mountain, exhibits a
revolving light of the greatest utility. The islet is connected with the
mountain by means of a rope bridge, which is perfectly safe to cross
over, and worthy the attention of the curious. Among these rocks vast
numbers of the peregrine falcon take up their abode, together with
pigeons, gulls, puffins, razor-bills, and other sea-birds.
In returning from Holyhead, we stopped at Gwyndy, or the Wine House,
about twelve miles and a half from the Head and the Ferry.—Mr. Bingley
gives the following account of the origin of its name: “About the reign
of Edward the Fourth, and for some years subsequent to that period, the
gentlemen of Wales frequently invited their friends, in large parties, to
exercise in wrestling, tournaments, and other feats of activity: but as
these meetings, in consequence of the numbers invited, were usually
attended with great expense, they were always held in the house of some
neighbouring tenant, who was supplied with wine from the lord’s cellar;
this was sold to the visitors, and his master received the profits.
These houses were denominated Gwyndu, or wine houses; and, from this
circumstance, the present place had its name.”
Having again reached Bangor, we determined still farther to explore the
beauties of this delightful spot and its vicinity: having taken a hasty
refreshment, we bent our steps towards Abercearn, near the mouth of a
small rivulet that empties itself into Port Penrhyn, and from thence
proceeded to