the largest and best built town in Anglesea, is pleasantly situated on
the western shore of the bay of that name, and commands a fine view of
the sea and the Caernarvonshire mountains. Its original name was Porth
Wygyr. Its harbour is well sheltered, and affords ample protection for
coasters, and ships of considerable burthen, which, during northerly
winds, are driven there in great numbers, to avoid the dangers of a lee
shore. As no manufactures of consequence are carried on in its
neighbourhood, it is rather calculated for great retirement, than for
active bustle; but being the county town, it is now and then enlivened by
the gaieties attendant upon assizes, elections, and other public
meetings.
The castle, built by Edward I. in 1295, stands in the estate of Lord
Bulkeley, close to the town, and covers a considerable space of ground;
but from its low situation it was always inferior in point of strength to
the castles of Conway and Caernarvon.
Close above the town is Baron Hill, the seat of Lord Viscount Warren
Bulkeley, delightfully situated on the declivity of a richly wooded bank,
and possessing a complete command of every object which can add to the
charms of picturesque scenery. The park extends to, and nearly
surrounds, the west and north sides of the town; whilst the rising
ground, upon which the mansion stands, shelters the town from the rude
blasts that would otherwise assail it; thus giving it that protection
from the raging of the elements which the noble owner ever affords to its
inhabitants, when sorrow and adversities assail their domestic peace. To
enumerate all the acts of Lord Bulkeley’s munificence and kindness would
be impossible, but a few of them may be seen in the neighbourhood of
Beaumaris.
The beautiful road of four miles and a half, along the shore of the Menai
to Bangor Ferry, was made at the expense of Lord and Lady Bulkeley in
1804: it cost about £3000, and, when completed, was presented to the
public and has since been maintained at his lordship’s expense. A road
possessed of greater picturesque beauty is not to be found in Britain.
The church is kept in repair by his lordship, to which he has presented
an excellent organ, a set of elegant communion plate, a clock, and a peal
of six fine toned bells; together, costing about £1200. He has also
given a good house to the rector for the time being. The national
school, as well as the minister’s house, was built by public
subscription, on land given by Lord Bulkeley; and the master’s and
mistress’s salaries have since been paid by him and his lady.
Many more acts of their liberality might be enumerated, but these are
sufficient to prove them zealous protecting friends, and kind neighbours.
Their numerous deeds of private charity ought not to be blazoned to the
world, but they will live long in the grateful remembrance of those
around them.
Beaumaris, situated 249 miles from London, had, in 1811, 249 houses, and
1,810 inhabitants; and in 1821 a population of 2,205. It is governed by
a mayor, recorder, two bailiffs, twenty-four capital burgesses, and
several inferior officers. It formerly possessed an extensive trade; but
has declined since the rise of Liverpool.
From Beaumaris we proceeded, by Dulas and Red Wharf Bay, to Amlwch; the
distance is about sixteen miles, through a pleasant country, in parts
greatly resembling England. About a mile from Red Wharf Bay you pass the
village of Pentraeth, _The End of the Sands_. The situation is pleasant;
and Mr. Grose was so taken with the picturesque beauty of its small
church, as to give a view of it in his Antiquities.
Near this, in a field at Plâs Gwynn, the seat of the Panton family, are
two stones, placed, as tradition says, to mark the bounds of an
astonishing leap; which obtained for the active performer of it the wife
of his choice; but it appears, that as he leaped into her affections with
difficulty, he ran away from them with ease; for going to a distant part
of the country, where he had occasion to reside several years, he found,
on his return, that his wife had, on that very morning, been married to
another person. Einson, on hearing this, took his harp, and, sitting
down at the door, explained in Welsh metre who he was, and where he had
been resident. His wife narrowly scrutinized his person, unwilling to
give up her new spouse, when he exclaimed:
Look not, Angharad, on my silver hair,
Which once shone bright of golden lively hue:
Man does not last like gold:—he that was fair
Will soon decay, though gold continue new.
If I have lost Angharad, lovely fair!
The gift of brave Ednyfed, and my spouse,
All I’ve not lost, (all must from hence repair)
Nor bed, nor harp, nor yet my ancient house.
I once have leap’d to show my active power,
A leap which none could equal or exceed,
The leap in Aber Nowydd, which thou, fair flower!
Didst once so much admire, thyself the meed.
Full fifty feet, as still the truth is known,
And many witnesses can still attest;
How there the prize I won, thyself must own:
This action stamp’d my worth within thy breast.