and having crossed a handsome modern stone bridge thrown over the river
Seiont, and built by “Harry Parry, the modern Inigo, A.D. 1791,” we soon
entered this ancient town, very much fatigued from our long excursion.
The town of Caernarvon, beautifully situated and regularly built, is in
the form of a square, enclosed on three sides with thick stone walls; and
on the south side defended by the Castle.
The towers are extremely elegant; but not being entwined with ivy, do not
wear that picturesque appearance which castles generally possess. Over
the principal entrance, which leads into an oblong court, is seated,
beneath a great tower, the statue of the founder, holding in his left
hand a dagger; this gateway was originally fortified with four
portcullises. At the west end, the eagle tower, remarkably light and
beautiful, in a polygon form; three small hexagon turrets rising from the
middle, with eagles placed on their battlements; from thence it derives
its name. In a little dark room {173a} in this tower, measuring eleven
feet by seven, was born King Edward II. April 25, 1284. The thickness of
the wall is about ten feet. To the top of the tower we reckoned one
hundred and fifty-eight steps; from whence an extensive view of the
adjacent country is seen to great advantage. On the south are three
octagonal towers, with small turrets, with similar ones on the north.
All these towers communicate with each other by a gallery, both on the
ground, middle, and upper floor, formed within the immense thickness of
the walls, in which are cut narrow slips, at convenient distances, for
the discharge of arrows.
This building, founded on a rock, is the work of King Edward I., the
conqueror of the principality; the form of it is a long irregular square,
enclosing an area of about two acres and a half. From the information of
the Sebright manuscript, Mr. Pennant says, that, by the united efforts of
the peasants, it was erected within the space of one year.
Having spent near three hours in surveying one of the noblest castles in
Wales, we walked round the environs of the town. The terrace {173b}
round the castle wall, when in existence, was exceedingly pleasing, being
in front of the Menai, which is here upwards of a mile in breadth,
forming a safe harbour, and is generally crowded with vessels, exhibiting
a picture of national industry; whilst near it a commodious quay presents
an ever-bustling scene, from whence a considerable quantity of slate, and
likewise copper, from the Llanberris mine, is shipped for different parts
of the kingdom.
Caernarvon may certainly be considered as one of the handsomest and
largest towns in North Wales; and under the patronage of Lord Uxbridge
promises to become still more populous and extensive.
In Bangor-street, is the Uxbridge Arms hotel, a large and most
respectable inn; where, as well as at the Goat, the charges are moderate
and the accommodations excellent.
Caernarvon is only a township and chapelry to Llanbeblic. Its market is
on a Saturday, which is well supplied and reasonable; and with the
spirited improvements made to the town and harbour, has been the means of
greatly increasing its population: according to the late returns it
contains 1008 houses, and 6000 inhabitants. The church, or rather
chapel, has been rebuilt by subscription. Service is performed here in
English, and at the mother church at Llanbeblic {174} in Welsh.
The Port, although the Aber sand-banks forming a dangerous bar, must ever
be a great drawback upon it, has not only been wonderfully improved, but
is in that progressive state of improvement by the modern mode of
throwing out piers, that vessels can now, of considerable tonnage, lie
alongside the quay, and discharge or take in their cargoes in perfect
safety; this bids fair, as may be seen by the rapid increase of its
population and tonnage, to make it a place of trade and considerable
resort: yet still it only ranks as a creek, and its custom-house is made
dependent on that of the haven of Beaumaris; to the comptroller of which
its officer is obliged to report: this must be a considerable hindrance
to its trade, particularly in matters out of the customary routine. The
county hall, which is near the castle, is a low building, but
sufficiently commodious within to hold with convenience the great
sessions. Caernarvon possessed such great favour with Edward the 1st. as
to have the first royal charter granted in Wales given to it. It is by
that constituted a free borough: it has one alderman, one deputy mayor,
two bailiffs, a town-clerk, two serjeants-at-mace, and a mayor; who, for
the time, is governor of the castle, and is allowed 200_l._ per annum to
keep it in repair; it, jointly with Conway, Nevin, Criccaeth, and
Pwllheli, sends a member to parliament; for the return of whom, every
inhabitant, resident or non-resident, who has been admitted to the
freedom of the place, possesses a vote.
It is allowed to have a prison for petty offences independent of the
sheriff. Its burgesses likewise were exempt throughout the kingdom from
tollage, lastage, passage, murage, pontage, and all other impositions of
whatever kind, with other privileges, too numerous to insert.
The county prison is likewise near the castle. It was erected in the
year 1794. The new market-house, containing the butchers’ shambles, &c.
is a well-contrived and convenient building, affording good storage for
corn and other articles left unsold.
The site of the ancient town of Segontium, which lies about half a mile
south of the present one, will be found worthy the attention of the
traveller; it was the only Roman station of note in this part of Cambria,
on which a long chain of minor forts and posts were dependent. It is
even maintained, and that by respectable authorities, that it was not
only the residence, but burial-place of Constantius, father of
Constantine the Great; but most probably this arises from confusing
Helena, the daughter of Octavius, duke of Cornwall, who was born at
Segontium, and married to Maximus, first cousin of Constantine, with
Helena his mother, whom these authorities assert to have been the
daughter of a British king. A chapel, said to have been founded by
Helen, and a well which bears her name, are amongst the ruins still
pointed out.
Since the numerous late improvements have been going forward, at and near
Caernarvon, new and interesting lights have been thrown on the ruins in
its vicinity, which will form a rich treat to the antiquary.
Near the banks of the Seint, from which Segontium took its name, and
which runs from the lower lake of Llanberris, are the remains of a fort,
which appears to have been calculated to cover a landing-place from the
river at the time of high-water: it is of an oblong shape, and includes
an area of about an acre; one of the walls which is now standing is about
seventy-four yards, and the other sixty-four yards long, in height from
ten to twelve feet, and nearly six feet in thickness. The peculiar plan
of the Roman masonry is here particularly discernible, exhibiting
alternate layers, the one regular, the other zig-zag; on these their
fluid mortar was poured, which insinuated itself into all the
interstices, and set so strong as to form the whole into one solid mass;
retaining its texture even to the present day, to such a degree, that the
bricks and stone in the Roman walls yield as easy as the cement.
English history has spoken so fully on this place, as connected with
Edward the 1st., on the title, which he, from his son being born in this
castle, so artfully claimed for him, and the future heirs apparent to the
British throne, as affording to the Welsh a prince of their own,
agreeable to their wishes, and the quiet annexation of the principality
to his dominions, which Edward by this means obtained, that it appears
superfluous to enlarge upon it in this work.
Several excursions may be made from Caernarvon, with great satisfaction
to the tourist; the principal of which is a visit to