“This island, which is the property of Lord Newborough, is somewhat more
than two miles long, and one in breadth; and contains about three hundred
and seventy acres of land; of which nearly one-third is occupied by a
high mountain, that affords feed only for a few sheep and rabbits. Its
distance from the main land is about a league. Towards the south-east
and south-west it lies entirely open, but on the north and north-east it
is sheltered by its mountain, which to the sea presents a face of
perpendicular, and in some parts overhanging rocks. Among these
precipices the intrepid inhabitants, in the spring of the year, employ
themselves in collecting the eggs of the various sea-fowl that frequent
them. This is usually done bare-footed, to prevent them from slipping
from heights, whence they must be dashed to pieces; and their concern for
their safety while seizing these eggs, is infinitely less than that of
the beholder, sitting securely in the boat below.
Nor untrembling canst thou see,
How from a craggy rock, whose prominence
Half o’ershades the ocean, hardy men
Fearless of dashing waves do gather them.
“These poor fellows do not often meet with accidents, except by the
giving way of pieces of the rock. In this case they are irrecoverably
lost. The men who venture without ropes are accounted by the natives the
most bold climbers: those who are more cautious fix a rope about their
middle, which is held by some persons on the top of the rock. By this
they slip down to the place where they think the most eggs are to be
found. Here, untying it from their body, they fasten it to the basket
that is to contain the eggs, which they carry in their hand. When this
is filled, they make a signal to their companions to draw them up. In
this manner they proceed from rock to rock, ascending or descending as
they find it necessary. They adopt the same modes in collecting
samphire, with which the rocks also abound.
“On the south-east side of the island, the only side on which it is
accessible to the mariner, there is a small but well-sheltered harbour,
capable of admitting vessels of thirty or forty tons burthen. In this
the inhabitants secure their own fishing-boats. The soil is principally
clay, and produces excellent barley and wheat; vetches, peas, and beans,
are said to succeed sufficiently well; but to oats it is not so
favourable. Trees will not grow here, the keen westerly winds
immediately destroying the young plants. Indeed, except a small quantity
of fine meadow land, all the lower ground of the island is of little
value. No reptile is ever seen in this island, except the common water
lizard. None of the inhabitants ever saw in it a frog, toad, or snake of
any kind.
“Till about fourteen years ago, no sparrows had been known to breed here:
three nests were, however, built, during the same spring, and the produce
has since completely colonized the place.
“There are here but eight houses, although the number of inhabitants is
upwards of seventy. Two or three of the principal of these rent the
island of Lord Newborough. They pay for it a hundred guineas a-year, and
have their land tythe free, and are also freed from taxes and rates of
every description. They keep about twenty horses and near thirty cows.
All the former, though greatly overstocking so small a place, are
absolutely necessary, on account of the great labour required in carrying
up the sea-weeds from the coast for manure.
“The sheep are small, and on the approach of a stranger, as Mr. Jones
informs me, they squall not much unlike hares. Their activity is very
remarkable. In the year 1801, Mr. Jones had one of them on his farm, at
Aberdaron, that had twice ventured through the sea, though the channel is
three miles across, and regained the island. The inhabitants train their
dogs to catch them; but if the sheep once gain the rocks, they bid
defiance to every attempt for the time, as, rather than suffer themselves
to be seized, they will plunge from thence into the sea. At the time of
the year when the females usually drop their offspring, the inhabitants
watch them every day, and before they are able to follow their dams, they
mark them in the ears: they then suffer them to range at liberty.
Without this attention, from the extreme wildness of the animals, the
owners would never be able to distinguish their respective property.
Some few of the sheep of the island, from having been rendered tame when
young, are more easily managed: these alone submit to be folded in the
evening.
“Curiosity induces many persons to visit this island almost every summer;
but the grandest sight the present inhabitants ever witnessed, was a
visit of the proprietor, Lord Newborough, and several persons of
distinction, in the whole to the number of about forty. This company
embarked in fishing-smacks from Porther, near Carreg Hall, in the parish
of Aberdaron. On their arrival in the island, marquees were immediately
pitched. The whole company dined in the open air; and at the conclusion
of their repast, all the inhabitants were assembled. The ensuing scene
reminded a gentleman of my acquaintance, who was present, of what he had
read respecting the inhabitants of some of the South Sea islands. They
were drawn up into a circle, and Lady Newborough adorned the heads of the
females with caps and ribbons, whilst Lord Newborough distributed hats
among the men. The nominal king and queen of the island were
distinguished from the rest by an additional ribbon.”
Mr. B. concludes by giving the following history of Bardsey: “The Welsh
name of this place is Ynys-Enlli. During the violent struggles between
the Welsh and English, it was styled by the poets the sanctuary or asylum
of the Saints, and it was sometimes denominated the Isle of Refuge. Some
of these poets assert that it was the cemetery of _twenty thousand
saints_! {144}
“The reputed sanctity of this island induced the religious to resort to
it, from many very distant parts of the country. It has been asserted by
several writers, that Roderic Moelwynog, prince of North Wales, first
founded here a monastery, some time in the eighth century. He might,
perhaps, rebuild or enlarge it, but there are good grounds, from Welsh
manuscripts, for supposing that there was a religious house in this
island of a much more early date. There is an old legend yet extant,
written in Monkish Latin, which assures us that the Almighty had entered
into a particular covenant with Laudatus, the first abbot of Bardsey, in
return for the piety of his monks. This granted to all the religious of
the monastery of Bardsey, the peculiar privilege of dying according to
seniority, the oldest always going off first. By this privilege, it is
stated, that every one knew very nearly the time of his departure. The
following is a translation of it:—‘At the original foundation of the
monastery of this island, the Lord God who attendeth to the petitions of
the just, at the earnest request of the holy Laudatus, the first abbot,
entered into a covenant with that holy man, and miraculously confirmed
his promise, unto him, his successors, the abbots and monks for ever,
while they should lead holy and religious lives, that they should die by
succession, that is, that the oldest should die first, like a shock of
corn ripe for the sickle. Being thus warned of the approach of death,
each of them, therefore, should watch, as not knowing at what exact hour
the thief might come; and, being thus always prepared, each of them by
turns should lay aside his earthly form. God, who is ever faithful, kept
his covenant, as he formerly did with the Israelites, inviolable; until
the monks no longer led a religious life, but began to profane and defile
God’s sanctuary by their fornications and abominable crimes. Wherefore,
after this, they were permitted to die like other men, sometimes the
older, sometimes the younger, and sometimes the middle-aged first; and,
being thus uncertain of the approach of death, they were compelled to
submit to the general laws of mortality. Thus, when they ceased to lead
a holy and religious life, God’s miraculous covenant also ceased: and do
thou, therefore, O God, have mercy upon us.”
The ancient building is now entirely destroyed; but, about the ground
where the monastery stood, a great number of graves have very lately been
discovered, lined with white stone or tile, and distant about two feet
from each other. All the religious duties of the inhabitants are now
performed in the parish church of Aberdaron. Sometimes, however, in
stormy weather, they are under the necessity of interring their own dead
in the island.
At Pwllheli good accommodation will be found at the Crown and Anchor inn;
but if proceeding farther in the Llyn, the traveller must depend solely
on the hospitality of individuals.