The “rich-hair’d youth of morn” had not long left his saffron bed, and
the very air was balmy as it freshened into morn, when we hurried from
our inn to enjoy the luxuries of the vale of Festiniog, so well
celebrated by the pen of Lord Littleton: “With the woman one loves, with
the friend of one’s heart, and a good study of books, one may pass an age
there, and think it a day. If one has a mind to live long, and renew his
youth, let him come and settle at Festiniog.” These are the sentiments
of Lord Littleton, in which seemed to be verified the situation of Mr.
Oakley, who has selected this spot for his residence. Tan-y-Bwlch hall
(for by that name is Mr. Oakley’s seat dignified) is environed by a thick
wood, which climbs the steep mountains behind his mansion. We followed
the meandering and translucent waters of the river Dryryd, till we
arrived at the village of Maetwrong, situated about the middle of this
paradise. Passing through the village we observed a small but neat
cottage, which was rendered interesting to the wayfarer, by its neat
simplicity. A large old fashioned chimney corner, with benches to
receive a social party, formed a most enviable retreat from the rude
storms of winter, and defied alike the weather and the world:—with what
pleasure did I picture
“A smiling circle, emulous to please,”
gathering round a blazing pile of wood on the hearth, free from all the
vicissitudes and cares of the world; happy in their own home, blessed in
the sweet affection of kindred amity, regardless of the winter blast that
struggled against the window, and the snow that pelted against the roof.
On our entering, the wife, who possessed “the home of happiness, an
honest breast,” invited us to take a seat under the window; which,
overlooking the village, and the dark tower of the church, offered the
delights of other seasons. The sweets of a little garden joined its
fragrance to the honey-suckle, which enwreathed with rich drapery the
windows; and here too lay the old family Bible, which had been put aside
on our first entrance. We regretted our not having had an opportunity of
seeing the husband, whom I make no doubt
“Envied not, and never thought of kings,
Nor from those appetites sustain’d annoy,
That chance may frustrate, or indulgence cloy;
Each season look’d delightful as it past,
To the fond husband, and the faithful wife.”
“About a mile east of this village,” says Mr. Evans, “are two remarkable
waterfalls, called Rhaiadr Du, on the river Cynvel, one about three
hundred yards above, and the other below a rustic bridge thrown over the
river, to which it leads. The upper fall consists of three steep rocks,
over which the water foams into a deep black bason, overshadowed by the
adjoining rocks. The other is formed by a broad sheet of water,
precipitated down a rock forty feet high, and darkened by the numerous
foliage around it, almost to the edge of the stream. Between the
cataract and the bridge is a tall columnar rock, called the pulpit of
_Hugh Llwyd Cynvel_, and situate in the bed of the river, from whence,
sage tradition says, a magician used to deliver his nocturnal
incantations.” There are few objects in Wales more worthy to be visited,
than these waterfalls.
From Festiniog, a pleasant excursion may be made to Tremadoc and
Cricceath, and from thence to Pwllheli and Bardsey island. Tremadoc,
which is situate at the mouth of the Traeth Mawr, in the promontory of
Llyn, is about eight miles from Pont-Aber-Glaslyn: its situation is low,
being three feet below low water mark, built on land reclaimed from the
sea, by the spirited exertions of William Alexander Madocks, Esq. of
Tany-yr-alt.
The town, which is an oblong square, contains a handsome market-house,
over which are assembly-rooms: a church, a good inn, the Tremadoc Arms,
and a bank. The reclaimed land consists of about two thousand acres,
which, in less than three years, was covered with vegetation; it now
produces excellent crops of wheat, barley, clover, &c. &c.
Mr. Madocks, after having succeeded in this arduous undertaking, set
about the still more difficult one of throwing an embankment across the
mouth of the Traeth Mawr; as an inducement for the accomplishing of
which, a grant was made to him from the crown, in 1807, of the whole of
these sands, from Pontaber-glasllyn to the point of Gêst.
The length of the embankment, from north to south, would be about a mile;
its breadth at the base one hundred feet, at the top thirty. The whole
of this has been completed to within one hundred yards in the centre, and
it is to be hoped this noble work will still be accomplished: funds only
seem now necessary for its completion: strong chain cables extended
across the opening, and hulks then sunk and filled would soon allow them
to finish the embankment. After seeing those in North Holland nothing is
to be despaired of. Long faggots, from seven to ten feet, straw, rushes,
and sand are the best sea-walls, sloping them gradually for the rise of
the tide. Those in Holland seemed constantly to have been increased by
the action of the sea, instead of having been diminished.