Mr. Wyndham has so minutely delineated the present state of this castle,
that I cannot do better than transcribe his account:
“The approach to Pembroke from the river shows the town and castle to
the most beautiful advantage. The town is situated upon the ridge of
a long and narrow rock, gradually ascending to the highest point, on
which stands the castle, at the brink of the precipice. If I may
compare small things with great, it much resembles the situation of
Edinburgh.
“The castle is of Norman architecture, mixed with early Gothic. The
principal tower, which is uncommonly high and perfect, has even its
stone vaulted roof remaining. The walls of this tower are fourteen
feet in thickness, the diameter of the space within is twenty-five,
and the height, from the ground to the crown of the dome, is
seventy-five feet; but visible marks appear within, that its height
was originally divided by four floors.
“King Henry VII. was born in the present castle. The natural cavern,
called the Wogan, lies immediately under the chapel, and opens with a
wide mouth towards the river. A communication from the cavern to the
castle was made by a staircase, on the outside of the rock; the
entrance was barricaded with a strong wall, partly remaining, through
which there is now a large door-way opened to the shore of the river.
The cavern appears nearly circular; its diameter is fifty-three feet;
and its height is proportionable to the diameter.
“In the civil war this castle was a garrison for the crown; and being
besieged, made a gallant defence.” In a cavern under this castle is
a remarkable echo.
Pembroke is by many still considered the next town, in South Wales, to
Caermarthen; but, although the situation is fine, and the main street
good, still the residue of the town shows evident symptoms of decay, and
that it lacks that trade and notice which Haverfordwest is deriving from
its downfall. It gives the title of Earl to the Herbert family.
The two churches within the walls are ancient. St. Michael’s is of
Norman architecture; it is at the east end of the town: St. Mary’s in the
centre of it. The priory church has its nave vaulted with stone; it is
paved with glazed bricks, with arms, flowers, &c. upon them. Near the
church is the prior’s mansion, which still exhibits proofs of its former
splendour and the large establishment of its possessors: it is now become
a humble dilapidated farm-house; and, to trace its origin, you must go to
the foundation. In 1811 Pembroke contained 501 houses, and a population
of 2415 persons. From hence is a pleasant excursion, the account of
which, as given by Mr. Fenton, in his work on Pembrokeshire, I subjoin:—
“Quitting the magnificent ruins of Pembroke, pass through Monkton,
from the height of which an admirable view may be attained; reach Dry
Burrows, a furzy moor, covered with tumuli. To the left stands
Orielton. Here, turn to the right, passing Castleton, still you will
observe various tumuli: from this height to the right, the navigation
from Pennarmouth to the town of Pembroke. The coast here is famous
for oysters of superior excellence, in inexhaustible quantities.
Descend by Hênllan, anciently inhabited by the descendants of
Gwynfard Dyfed: hence to Pwllcrochon church-yard, upon a small creek
of Milford Haven, in which a memorable skirmish took place between
the king’s and parliament’s forces. The parish church of
Rhôscrowther is dignified with a handsome tower, and the interior
contains some figures well sculptured: distant a quarter of a mile
stands Iestingtown, or vulgarly Iseston, long the residence of the
family of Meares; it appears to have been castellated. Not far from
the church is a well, called St. Degmen’s, to which great virtues
have been ascribed. Skirting the Bay of Nangle, reach the village of
that name, so called from being somewhat placed _in angulo_. It
bears marks of former consequence: in the church is a monument to
Brigadier Ferrars. To the north of a brook, running behind the
church-yard, are the remains of a considerable building, with a
square tower, called the castle, said to have been the principal
residence of the Sherborne’s, ancient Lords of the Vill; it is now an
inn. Hence along the coast is a block-house, a singular building,
reared upon the very edge of a horrid precipice overhanging the sea,
fronting another upon the dale side of Milford. The masonry of these
buildings is excellent; their origin is uncertain. Leaving Bangeston
on the left, after passing over a sandy tract, you reach the village
of Castle Martin, an ancient British post, part of the works of which
are still remaining. A little further is Merion Court, belonging to
Lord Cawdor; and, near to the village, to the north-east, a British
circular camp. The road now passes the extremity of Lord Cawdor’s
property at Brawnslade, farmed on the most improved principles.
Still further along the coast is Bully Bear, where are the remains of
a fortified camp. Hence to Linney Point, and the Head of Man, a
promontory of great height, awfully overhanging its base: near this,
a fine view of an insulated rock, called Pennyholt Stock, pass the
Wash to a Danish camp; in which is that wonderful chasm called the
Caldron: the entrance to the camp is by a winding ascent; it has been
of considerable extent and great strength; and, with the Caldron and
rock, most curious and worthy of observation. Bosherton Meer is
occasionally agitated to such an extent as to be heard at a
considerable distance—resembling thunder, and its foam rising many
feet above the mouth of the pit. At a short distance to the east, is
a fissure in the cliffs not discernable till nearly on its edge,
called Penny’s and Adam’s Leap, over which these hunters were
precipitated: proceed to the Horse Block, and St. Govan’s Chapel and
Well, to the latter of which great virtues are ascribed. The
surrounding scenery is in the highest degree picturesque: the larger
bay is surrounded by cliffs, in the form of an amphitheatre; that in
which the hermitage is placed is truly romantic. In proceeding to
Stackpool Court, after again gaining the height, you pass Buckspool,
and from thence to Bosherton; below the village, pass under a tongue
of land, on which are the remains of a strong encampment; near this
is a small cavern, in the Limestone Rock, where human bones have been
found. Harold is said to have infested this coast, and to have left
marks of his predatory victories inscribed—
Hick Haroldus victor fuit.
Of three stones, the most east stands in Stackpool Park Warren,
pitched upon one end; the second, surmounting a carnedd, is in a
field called Horsestone Park, consisting of a great mass of
limestone, six feet above the ground, five in breadth, and a foot in
thickness; it is bedded in an almost circular mound of stones. The
third stone is upon the same line, but more west; it is the tallest,
almost incrusted with a minute lichen.”
Stackpool Court (from the broad rock at the mouth of Broad Haven) is the
elegant seat of Lord Cawdor. It is on the west side of the pool, on a
fine eminence, at the edge of a bold declivity. It bore originally a
castellated form, but lost its ancient baronial character. In the civil
wars it was fortified and garrisoned for the king. The walls were so
strong, that the ordnance made little impression. The present mansion,
which occupies the same site, is of wrought limestone; its architecture
is heavy. Lady Cawdor has contributed to Mr. Fenton’s Tour, from her own
pencil, a charming view of this vicinity, taken near the bridge, in
crossing from the house to the park. The house has two fronts, the
principal one facing the pleasure-ground, the other opening to a fine
piece of water. You enter the latter front from a broad terrace,
extending to the whole length; and, after descending, it continues to the
extent of a spacious conservatory. The house is formed into many fine
apartments, and the library is large. In one room, containing family
pictures, is a whole length of Lord Cawdor, by Sir J. Reynolds, and
another of Lady Cawdor, by Sir W. Beechey. The offices are well
arranged, and the stables form a detached large quadrangular building.
Of Stackpool, says Mr. Fenton, without straining a compliment, there are
few places which display more magnificence without, or more sumptuous
hospitality and elegant comforts within. But, to sum up the importance
of this place, be it known that it stands in the midst of a property of
fifteen thousand acres of most valuable land! Opposite is the park, well
stocked with deer, deformed by some barren sand-banks, and at present
deficient in wood. The borders of the lake, and the pleasure-grounds,
are, however, richly wooded. Between the park and the sea there is a
warren, formed of mountains of sand, and consolidated by that valuable
plant môrhesg (juncus maritimus), sea or mat rushes. The lake is
abundantly stocked with wild fowl, which collect at a call, and consent
to be fed like barn-door poultry.
Passing along the park, enter the pleasant village of Stackpool, where
the ancient lords’ vassals resided: hence descend to a vale on the right,
where a private gate leads through a woody avenue to the church of
Chereton, or Stackpool Elidur, so named from its founder. It stands at
the head of a sequestered dell; is a plain building, with a tower;
consists of a nave and chancel, having two small aisles on the south
side. On the north side of the chancel, under a wrought canopy of stone,
lies a cross-legged knight, said to represent Elidur de Stackpool, the
first possessor of Stackpool; the same whom Giraldus mentions, who took
the cross at the time that Archbishop Baldwin made his transit through
the country. Ascend to St. Petroc’s, a rectory in the gift of Lord
Cawdor: the church is small, but very light and neat. The only
conspicuous monument is a handsome mural marble tablet, to a Lady Jane
Mansell, wife first of Sir Roger Lort, and afterwards Sir Edward Mansell,
of Muddlescombe, Bart. in the County of Caermarthen. The rectors of this
place have been observed to live to a great age.
At a short distance from Stackpool stands the chapel of St. Gowen,
situated in a fine amphitheatre of rocks, rising immediately over the
sea. In respect to this scene, the Author of the Beauties, Harmonies,
and Sublimities of Nature, thus expresses himself:—“As for you, my
Lelius, never shall I forget your enthusiasm, when we visited the chapel
of St. Gowen, situated among those stupendous rocks, which, forming a
semicircular area towards the sea, commands a noble prospect of the coast
of Devon. The language you employed on that interesting occasion, never
can I be so base as to forget! ‘If our prayers are at one time more
acceptable than at another, it must assuredly be in those moments when
our souls are elevated by such scenery as this! Often have I been awed
to devotion at Rome and at Loretto, in the presence of Canons, Bishops,
and Cardinals; but here, in the rude simplicity of nature, I feel my
spirit separate, as it were, from the tenement which has so long chained
it to the earth, and wing its course directly up to heaven! The
magnificent area, in which this small chapel is situated, is a temple
more sublimely grand and affecting than all the mosques of Turkey, and
all the cathedrals of France, Italy, or Spain.’”
At Pembroke we hired a boat, {74} intending to sail round the extensive
Haven of Milford; and, as we retired from the shore, we took a retrospect
of the dilapidated walls of the castle, once the terror, and even in
ruins, the pride of the scene. It is most advisable to make this
excursion at high water, as it adds much to the picturesque scenery of
the _tout ensemble_.