the tower of Knole Castle had a pleasing effect from a distance: it was
built by Sir Herbert Mackworth, and is at present in the possession of H.
I. Grant, Esq. The windows from the banqueting-room command a circle of
many miles in diameter, composed of Neath valley and river, with the
smoky town of Neath—the Mumbles’ Point—Swansea, and the Channel. The
artificial cascade is well contrived; but, after the foaming torrents of
Scotenogam and Culhepste, appears very tame.
The site of the refectory, the chapel, the hall, and several other rooms,
in the ruins of Neath Abbey, may still be traced. It stands on the east
of the river, and was formerly, by Leland’s account, the “fairest abbay
of all Wales;” but in his Collectanea {47} he seems to give Margam the
preference of all the Cistercian houses in these parts. It was founded
for white monks, by Richard de Granville. About the time of its
dissolution, it contained only eight monks and was valued at 132_l._
7_s._ 7_d._ per annum. In this abbey the unfortunate King Edward II.
secreted himself in the year 1326, when prevented, by contrary winds,
from his intended escape to Ireland; he was soon, however, discovered,
and confined in the castle of Kenilworth, under the custody of the Earl
of Leicester. Near the ruins are the copper-works: the ore is chiefly
imported from Cornwall and Wicklow in Ireland; being calcined, and
thereby losing its sulphur, it is refined by the simple process of
frequent melting, and taking off the dross, which forms a scum: lastly,
being moulded into small plates, or pigs, it is shipped for the market.
The method of reducing the metal, when melted into small particles, is by
pouring it into water; and when thus reduced, it is called copper-shot.
Brass is a compound of copper thus reduced, and lapis calaminaris
pulverized in crucibles, and moulded or cast into plates. Lapis
calaminaris is dug in great quantities near Holywell in Flintshire.
Neath, although surrounded by beautiful scenery, is itself unpleasantly
situated: it is low, the streets narrow, the buildings old, and there is
in the first view of it an air of desertion and poverty, that sets the
traveller against it; yet it possesses some trade as a sea-port, in
coals, iron, and copper, for which it is now considerably indebted to its
canal, which communicates betwixt Aberdare and Britton Ferry. The ruins
of the castle still exist, but possess no particular merit, derived
either from strength, beauty, or antiquity. A navigable canal has been
made to communicate with all the interior parts of the country to Pont
Nedd Vechan. The market days at Neath are Wednesdays and Saturdays. It
is one hundred and ninety-six miles one furlong from London. Near Neath
is Cringell, the residence of Wm. Davis, Esq. author of a History of this
County; and about a mile up the vale of Neath, is Cadoxton Lodge, near
which is a cascade. The road from hence to Swansea is very good, and not
incommoded by the smoke of the copper-works, as it was formerly; but for
horse or foot passengers, though more circuitous, there is a pleasant way
by