one of the finest ruins in Wales, (for although Monmouthshire is now an
English county, it formerly was Welsh,) stands near the village of that
name: it may be pleasantly and leisurely viewed in the day, with Usk and
Caerleon, affording time to reach Newport.
The first view of it is considerably impeded by the surrounding trees,
but the closer inspection presents such a mass of ruin as well proves its
ancient strength and grandeur. From the citadel, which lies to the south
of the main building, the communication was by a drawbridge over the
moat, by which it was surrounded; it was a hexagon, apparently five
stories high, and of much strength, with bastions.
Round the citadel were raised walks, and in the walls are small recesses.
A stone staircase still remains, leading to the top of one of the towers,
from which not only the ruins, but the adjacent country, are viewed to
much advantage. The two courts of the castle both communicate with the
terrace.
The main entrance is magnificent, much overhung with ivy; the gothic
portal is defended by two massive towers, and the building being faced
with hewn free-stone, exhibits a less desolate aspect than it would
otherwise do. The whole range of offices and apartments appears to have
been on a splendid scale, and the building shows various specimens of
architecture, from the time of Henry the Fifth to that of Charles the
First.
The large banquetting hall divides the two courts; it still retains the
arms of the Marquis of Worcester, with the motto “Mutare vel timere
sperno.”
During the civil wars, Henry, first Marquis of Worcester, several times
afforded a refuge to Charles the First, but at length, when that
monarch’s fortune was past retrieving, Ragland Castle, after having been
various times summoned by detachments of the Parliamentary forces, was
regularly invested and taken by Sir Thomas Fairfax; a window is still
shewn, through which a girl in the garrison, by waving a handkerchief,
introduced his troops. The aged Marquis was sent prisoner to London,
where he died in the 85th year of his age, and his property having been
confiscated, and the castle dismantled, it became a prey to his own
tenantry, who pulled it down for the sake of the materials, but more
particularly for the staircases, of which they removed above twenty.
At the Restoration, this with other estates was restored to the family,
but in such a state of ruin, that being considered unworthy their
repairing, it was left as an object of pillage to the vicinity, which it
has but lately, since its ruins have become venerable, ceased from being.
It appertains to the noble house of Beaufort.
The library, which was here destroyed by the mad fanatic soldiery of
Cromwell, is greatly to be regretted, as it possessed Welsh manuscripts
of great importance; the collection was very large, and the loss not to
be estimated, many being unique.
The domain appertaining to this princely residence was very extensive and
well arranged, and in Ragland Church are still to be seen the vestiges of
splendid memorials erected for Marquisses of Worcester, and other noble
personages.
USK, or CASTRUM ISCA,
which is the next place of note on the route, is believed to be the
Burrium of the Romans. It was formerly a place of much note; its
situation is low, but capable of being rendered most beautiful, its
surrounding scenery holding forth the most tempting lures to improve
nature by art, at a trifling expense.
The Usk is here become a noble river, and its fish, particularly its
salmon, are held in the highest estimation. Along the river is a
beautiful walk to the ruins of the castle, from which you gain a fine
view of the town, and the surrounding slopes and heights, and in few
places is to be seen so large a body of clear water, in so expanded and
rapid a stream. When I visited it, it was not the season for fishing,
but I must confess, I sighed to leave it behind me. To the flyfisher few
places hold forth such inducements to settle as Usk. I fancied myself in
a Swiss valley where I could cultivate my vines, my lavender, and my
roses, supply my table with exquisite fish and game, enjoy pure air, and
a fine climate.
The best and pleasantest road to Caerleon is over the bridge to
Llanbaddock, three furlongs; by Llangibby castle, and Llangibby, one mile
two furlongs; to Llanhenock, three miles; Caerleon, two miles seven
furlongs; Newport, five miles.