As a centrical situation from which to undertake a Tour to either North
or South Wales, and to which conveyances are now established from all
parts of England and Scotland, I fixed on Oxford. And should the
Tourist’s undertaking be commenced early in the season, and his time to
enjoy it be ample, he will have the opportunity of viewing this seat of
learning and nursery of the arts to advantage; the elegant piles of
building which Oxford exhibits, the stores of learned wealth which it
possesses, and the beautiful paintings which adorn its halls and
colleges, are so cheaply and so fully described in the Oxford Guides,
that to attempt to do it in this work would be superfluous, if not
ridiculous: still I may be excused for pointing out to those whose period
of stay may be limited, the objects more particularly worthy their
attention. The three churches generally viewed are St. Mary’s, All
Saints, and St. Peter’s in the East. St. Mary’s is the church used by
the University on Sundays and holidays: All Saints is a beautiful modern
structure, in the High-street: St. Peter’s in the East is very ancient;
it was formerly the University Church, and is now, during Lent, attended
by the members of it, for afternoon service.
The Bodleian or University Library, one of the largest in Europe, as well
as the Picture Gallery, are to be seen in summer, from eight to two
o’clock, and from three to five; in the winter only till three in the
afternoon. The Arundel marbles are placed in a large room on the north
side of the Schools. The Theatre, in which are held the Public Acts,
called the Comitia, and Encænia, and Lord Crewe’s annual commemoration,
in June or July, of the benefactors to the University, when the prizes
adjudged to particular performances are publicly recited, is a superb
edifice, and was built by Sir Christopher Wren, at the expense of
Archbishop Sheldon: it cost 16,000_l._; its roof has been greatly
admired. Near this, on the west, stands the Ashmolean Museum of natural
curiosities, coins, &c. &c. and on the other side of the Theatre, the
Clarendon Printing-house. Southward of the Schools stands in a fine area
the celebrated Radcliffe Library, a noble building with a handsome dome.
St. Mary Magdalene College at the east end of the city, near the river
Cherwell, is particularly worthy of attention, were it only to see the
picture of our Saviour bearing his cross; supposed to be painted by
Guido. Such is the awful solemnity of the place, and the impressive
beauty of this painting, as well as of the windows, particularly of that
representing the last judgment, that none can be better calculated to
give a favourable bias to the mind of youth; for should religion waver in
the mind, the sweet benignity of Him who died to save mankind
Shall on the heart impress such grateful love,
That Atheist ne’er can shake, or Deist move.
The Cloister of this College, which remains in its primitive state, is
the most venerable of the University; the interior is ornamented with
curious hieroglyphics, the key to which is very fully given in the Oxford
Guide, from an ancient manuscript in the College.
Passing by numerous other Colleges and Halls, all interesting, if the
time and inclination of the Tourist permit him to visit them, I shall
proceed to Christ Church, which merits particular attention. This
College consists of four courts: 1. The great Quadrangle; 2. Peckwater
square; 3. Canterbury court; 4. The Chaplain’s court; and some other
buildings. The noble west front is 382 feet in length. Over the great
gate in the middle of this front is a beautiful tower, designed by Sir
Christopher Wren, erected by Dr. Fell, in which is hung the great bell,
called Tom, the weight of which is eight tons and a half: on the sound of
this bell, the scholars of the University are to retire to their
respective Colleges.
The great Quadrangle is 264 by 261 feet in the clear. The Hall takes up
more than half the south side: we ascend to it by a spacious and stately
staircase of stone, the roof of which, supported by a single pillar, is
beautiful. The staircase, lobby, and entrance into the hall, have been
altered under the direction of Mr. Wyatt. The Hall is by far the most
magnificent room of the kind in Oxford. There are near 300 compartments
in the cornice, which are embellished with as many coats of arms, carved
and blazoned in their proper colours. At the upper end of the hall the
beautiful gothic window merits attention.—For the long list of portraits
of eminent persons that adorn the walls, _vide_ Oxford Guide.
Christ Church, which is the cathedral of the diocese, formerly belonged
to St. Frideswide’s Monastery; for the roof of the choir, which is of
beautiful stone-work, it was indebted to Cardinal Wolsey.
The east window was painted by Mr. Price, senior, of London, from a
design by Sir James Thornhill. The window at the north corner of the
west end is curiously painted, representing St. Peter delivered out of
prison by the angel. It was executed by Oliver, in his eighteenth year.
The fine ring of ten bells in the steeple, as well as Tom before
described, were brought from Oseney Abbey. Choir service is performed
every day at ten and five; except on Sundays and holidays, when it is at
eight in the morning.
Three sides of Peckwater court are uniform, designed by Dr. Aldrich. On
the fourth side is the Library, 141 feet long, built in the Corinthian
order. In the lower apartments to the right and left are deposited the
celebrated collection of pictures, given to the College by Gen. Guise.
Amongst these is the celebrated performance of Annibal Caracci,
representing his family in a butcher’s shop. St. Francis in a vision
supported by angels, by ditto. A Medusa’s head, by Rubens. Two
Nativities, by Titian. A Nativity, by Raphael. The flight into Egypt,
by Guido Rini. Two half-lengths of women, by Dominichino. Jesus and
Saint John embracing, by Raphael, &c. &c.
For a farther account of the various beauties of Oxford, I must again
recommend the Tourist to refer to the Oxford Guide, as well as for
information with respect to Heythrop, the seat of the Earl of Shrewsbury,
17 miles N. of Oxford; Ditchley, the seat of the Right Honourable Lord
Dillon, about four miles and a half from Heythrop; or Nuneham Courtney,
the seat of Earl Harcourt, which affords the richest treat to the
admirers of fine paintings that the country affords.
But if a soldier’s ardour warms his soul, and he would fain be led to
deeds of arms, pursue the road to honour, and seek the pinnacle of fame,
to Blenheim’s towers let him turn his steps; and let the gentle
Rosamond’s hard fate midst Woodstock’s bowers beguile him of a sigh; for
love and war should still go hand in hand. Here well-earned honours have
been well repaid; and great as Marlborough’s noble deeds in arms shall
shine in the historic page, still shall a sovereign’s and a nation’s
gratitude outvie the hero’s deeds.
Blenheim, the princely residence of his grace the Duke of Marlborough, is
situated about eight miles from Oxford, to the west of Woodstock, from
which town you enter the Park by a spacious portal of the Corinthian
order. The noble view of the castle of Blenheim, the extent of the park,
the lake, valley, and richly varied scenery, are from hence highly
impressive. The architecture of this noble pile of building, the
interior finish and display of the arts, increase rather than diminish
the first impression. The circumference of the park is about eleven
miles: the gardens are tastefully displayed, owing much to nature, whose
beauties are here happily blended with art.
The distance from Woodstock to Witney is eight miles and three quarters,
by a turnpike road; thence to Burford, seven miles and a quarter;
Northleach, nine miles; Cheltenham, twelve miles and three quarters.