NUTMEG AND MACE

Where the Nutmeg Tree Grows--Yield of Nuts and Mace and How Prepared

for the Market--Uses in Commerce

The nutmeg tree, known to botanists as Myristica frangrans (sweet

smelling) is a native of the Malay archipelago. The tree, which in the

Banda isles grows to the height of 50 to 60 ft., and in the Straits to

30 to 40 ft., resembles the pear tree in the shape of its leaves and

fruit. Its flowers are like those of the lily of the valley in form and

size, but are pale yellow and exceedingly fragrant. There are male and

female flowers, the nutmegs being obtained from the latter. It is only

when the tree is about 6 or 8 years old that the female tree can be

distinguished from the male, and of the latter only a few are allowed

to remain for fertilizing purposes, the rest being cut down. The nutmeg

tree continues to yield from 70 to 80 years after reaching maturity (8

years). Each tree on an average will produce 10 lbs. of nutmegs and 1½

lbs. of mace annually. The fruit is yellowish, edible drupe, about the

size of a peach; it splits into halves when at maturity--about 9 months

from the time of blossoming--exposing a single seed with a thin, hard

shell, surrounded by a fibrous substance of a crimson color, which,

when dried and shelled becomes the nutmeg. The young drupes, when

young and tender, are often preserved like jam and are considered the

most aromatic and delicious of conserves. Altho the nutmeg tree has

ripe fruit upon it at all seasons, there are three principal periods

of harvesting, viz: July, when the fruit is most abundant, though

it yields thin mace; November, when the mace is thicker, though the

nutmegs are smaller, and March, when both mace and nutmegs reach their

greatest perfection--but as this season is dry the production is not

great.

[Illustration]

The usual method of gathering in the Straits is to collect the ripe

nuts that have fallen on the ground. In the Banda islands, the fruits

are gathered in small, neatly-made, oval bamboo baskets--holding about

3 fruit--at the end of a long bamboo stick, which prevents bruising,

the baskets being opened for about half their length on one side, and

furnished with two small prongs projecting from the top, by which the

fruit stalk is broken, the fruit falling into the basket. After the

pulp--which is about ½-in. thick, whitish in color, and tough like

candied peel--has been removed the mace is stripped off by hand. The

shell of the fruit is very hard and cannot be broken without injury to

the kernel. To overcome this they are put into receptacles with fine

mesh bottoms, and dried over a slow fire--being turned from time to

time--until the kernel rattles freely in the shell, a process which

takes about 6 or 8 weeks. This also kills any weevil which may be at

work in them. They are then carefully cracked by placing them on a

sort of drumhead made of raw-hide and striking them with a board or

mallet, when the shells fly off into pieces. Great caution is needed

in shelling, for if too hard a blow be struck it makes a black spot

on the nutmeg, which affects its value considerably. After being

steeped in salt water several times and again dried they are sorted

according to size and soundness--130 to 140 to the pound are the lowest

priced, 75 to 80 the highest, and larger nuts are sold at special

prices. The sorting is done by hand, and nothing but sound, perfect

nuts are supposed to be shipped. The broken and wormy ones are used in

manufacturing “nutmeg butter,” or, as it is commonly but erroneously

called, “mace oil.” They are now limed. There are two methods of liming

in vogue--the dry and the wet. In the dry process, the nuts have dry

lime powder rubbed over them, either by hand or shaking in barrels.

In the wet process, the nuts are put into newly-slacked lime and then

spread out to dry, or they are dipped into a kind of lime-pickle, thick

as syrup, made of calcined-shells and salt water. After being covered

with this mixture they are dried. The process of liming originated with

the Dutch, with a view to preventing the germinating of the seeds, for

which purpose they were formerly immersed for three months in milk of

lime. Again it is claimed that liming preserves the nuts against the

attacks of maggots and a particular kind or beetle by stopping up their

breathing and chewing apparatus. A preference is still manifested for

limed nutmegs.

As nutmegs are now seldom shipped by sailing vessels, but by steamers,

thus saving the long-time voyage, there is no reason why they should

not come unlimed, and then the differences in their natural complexions

and range of variations would become familiar and easily recognized.

The liming process hides many imperfect or corky nuts; nuts which have

been riddled with worm holes are “stopped” with a paste made of flour,

oil and nutmeg powder and then mixed with the sound ones. Occasionally

this paste is moulded into false nutmegs. Besides this, nutmegs are

frequently robbed of part of their essential oil by distillation in

alcohol--a process called “sweating”--and yet sold as entire nuts. A

small quantity of boracic acid will accomplish the same purpose as

lime, and Paris white and barytes will serve to mask the identity as

well as the defects. A good nutmeg should have no worm-holes, be full

of oil and cut firm like a piece of wood, and if a pin is thrust into

one the oil should ooze out on its being withdrawn.

The Penang nutmegs, which are generally not limed, are considered the

best, altho some prefer the Banda or Batavia, and after these the

Singapore. There is also a demand for an elliptical-shaped nutmeg of

rank flavor, first called long nutmegs, but now known as Macassars.

Another kind of nutmeg from New Guinea, and known in Germany as “horse

nutmeg,” is from the species Myristica Argentea. It is of a long and

narrow shape. In these the arellus or mace furrows are less marked and

their odor is not so delicate as that of the true nutmeg.

There are many kinds of wild or inferior nutmegs, such as: American

Jamaica, or calabash nutmeg (M. monodora), of the custard-apple family,

bearing a large pulpy fruit containing aromatic seeds. Brazilian nutmeg

(cryptocarya moschata) a tree of the laurel family, producing nutmegs

of an inferior quality. The nut is longer than the true species and

is sold under the name of long nutmeg. California nutmeg, a tree of

the pine family, called also stinking nutmeg or stinking yew, from the

disagreeable odor of the leaves and wood when bruised and burned, and

yielding a fruit resembling true nutmegs. Clove nutmeg, a Madagascar

tree of the laurel family, the fruit a pungent kernel resembling the

true nutmeg and used as a spice. Peruvian nutmeg, a large tree of the

monimiad family, yielding an aromatic fruit. From Borneo a wild, soapy

nutmeg and mace (M. fatua) are often palmed off as the true kinds.

There is also the Sante Fe nutmeg (Motoba) from Columbia, S. A., and

Ackaway nutmeg, a spice grown in Guiana, the fruit of Acrodiclidum

camard. Another species, the M. sebefira, is a common tree in the

forests of Guiana, north Brazil, and up into Panama. It is utilized

principally for the oil extracted from the nuts, obtained by macerating

them in water, the oil rising to the surface, and as it cools skimmed

off. Ackawi nutmegs, used mainly as a cure for diarrahoea and colic.

All these, while resembling somewhat the true nutmegs and sometimes

foisted on dealers, are of very little real value.

Spices, their histories · 第 27 / 38 题