BACK TO INDIA—DISILLUSIONMENT OF OUR FOLLOWERS WITH REGARD TO SOME
OF THE BLESSINGS OF CIVILIZATION—MILITARY HOSPITALITY—RETURN TO
CALCUTTA.
We had just got into our fresh quarters when our carters turned up. They
had received a severe beating for their carelessness, and had then been
released. We paid them both off, and were not sorry at the thought of
having seen the last of the Chinese muleteer.
At dinner that night we met a Mr. Denbigh, who is engaged in large
business transactions in Saghalien, Vladivostock, and Japan, and who
was now supplying sleepers for the new railway to Pekin. He made a
most tempting offer, which we could not accept, namely, that we should
accompany him in a ship he had chartered, run over in her to Japan, and
then either go on in her to Canton, or change into one of the regular
liners to Shanghai and Hong Kong. Next morning, as soon as breakfast was
over, we went with Mr. Denbigh to try and fit ourselves out with some
new clothes, but we did not succeed in getting much beyond stockings and
shoes. We then went to the office of Messrs. Forbes & Co., and presented
our letters, showing the amount we had drawn from their various agents,
and settled the account in English money.
In the afternoon we met Mr. W. H. Forbes, an Edinburgh man, who told
us that our quickest route would be to go by a steamer belonging to
Messrs. Butterfield and Swire, called the _Nanchang_, one of the very
few running direct to Hong Kong. This would save several days, but
would not allow of our seeing Shanghai; but time outweighed all other
considerations, and we practically decided at once to adopt this course.
In the evening we dined with Surgeon-Major Henston and the mess of the
Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Company, being treated on all hands with
the greatest possible kindness.
Next morning we finally decided to go by the _Nanchang_ direct to Hong
Kong, and, with a view to this, we went round to Messrs. Butterfield and
Swire's office. Here we learnt that, by taking the midday train to Tong
Ku, we should get on board comfortably before dark. This sounded simple
enough, but we still had something to learn with regard to Chinese
travelling.
From Tientsin to Tong Ku is about thirty miles, and two trains run daily
each way. Ships can come up the river as far as Tientsin, but, at this
time of year, they seldom care to run the risk of being frozen in. We
arrived at the railway station in good time, and there found a scene of
the most horrible confusion. As soon as the train came alongside the
platform, there was a general rush for the carriages, and every seat
was taken. Not being accustomed to this sort of thing, we got left, but
by the kindness of a Dr. Irwin, and a very nice Chinese official, we
managed to put our servants and our baggage into an open waggon, while
we ourselves travelled in the brake van.[21]
There was a bitterly cold wind blowing, fortunately at our backs, so
we kept the brake door open for fresh air only having to shut it when
the train stopped. Had the wind been against us, our servants would
have had a very poor time. We found, however, that we had a great pull
over people in the carriages, for we had a stove on which we roasted
chestnuts the whole way to Tong Ku.
The Chinese gentleman to whom we were indebted for our seat in the train
had been educated in America and spoke English fluently; he was a very
go-ahead man, and was very anxious that the management of the railway
should be put into the hands of foreigners, as the Chinese officials
were quite helpless. But, with all his admiration for foreign products,
he said that there was one thing he could get in China to suit him, and
nowhere else, that was "spectacles." He certainly wore a splendid pair,
for which he had given Ts.80—a very heavy price, but the glasses were
extraordinarily good.
This was the first railway Esau and Lassoo had ever seen. They had long
been looking forward to it, and had asked us many questions as to how
the train moved, etc., but I am afraid their first experience was not
an encouraging one.
On our arrival at Tong Ku, we heard that the _Nanchang_ had gone outside
the bar to complete her cargo, but no one could tell us how to get out
to her. After walking for about a mile we came to the end of the wharf,
and, by pure good luck, found a tug just on the point of leaving. "Where
is the _Nanchang_?" we shouted. "I'm going to take a lighter out there
at once; look sharp, if you're coming on board," was the reply. The tug
began to move, but our repeated shouts brought it to a standstill. The
pilot was an impatient man, and our coolies who carried our goods were
tardy men, so that we just, and only just, managed to tumble our things
and ourselves on board before the tug was in motion again.
As soon as our pilot had tugged us out alongside the lighter, he advised
us to go aboard it with our luggage, and as we knew the _Nanchang's_
cargo was on board also, we felt we could not be left behind. The pilot,
too, promised that if he could not get us alongside the _Nanchang_ that
night, he would take us ashore to the hotel at Taku. It was bitterly
cold as we scrambled from the tug into the lighter, and whilst our
servants barricaded themselves from the cruel blast with our boxes and
rugs, Malcolm and I gladly stepped below and partook of the small space
available, and of the rough though kind hospitality of the uncouth
Chinese crew. As we felt ourselves being tugged out to sea it grew
colder and colder. At length, soon after nightfall, to our dismay,
the pilot faithlessly deserted us. Visions of beds at the Taku Hotel
vanished, to be replaced by the flow of wrath we would let the pilot
have on the morrow. The only course left to us was to make the best of
our situation. As we had made no provision for food, we asked our rough
hosts, by signs, what they could give us for dinner. This finally was
served up, consisting of tea and monkey-nuts. We smiled at one another
as we did ample justice to our last Chinese meal, and prayed that we
might never fare worse.
I don't know how long I had slept, but suddenly I awoke. There was
considerable hubbub aloft, and somehow I felt that we were dragging
our anchor and drifting out to sea. Rushing up on deck, I found the
wind was blowing so hard that, instead of an anchor, we were using
a bit of a sail, and that after all I had needlessly left the warmth
below. Soon after daybreak we saw a tug coming towards us, but, alas!
were unable to vent our wrath on our last night's pilot, for this
one proved to be another tug. This quickly brought us alongside the
_Nanchang_, where we were at first pointed out as being two Russians,
but further acquaintance with the hardy and kind-hearted skipper and
hospitable officers soon dissolved their first opinion. The _Nanchang_
had comfortable quarters for two passengers, with a liberal table.
The cargo consisted of Chinese wine, nuts and bones, which latter are
utilised for some process in refining sugar. We ourselves never approved
of the process, for on a roughish day the odours from these bones were
not always welcome.
The following morning, the 6th December, we rose to find ourselves
almost blocked in with white drifting masses of ice—quite a Nansenic
scene. It seemed as though we could have walked for miles over the sea.
Our weather-beaten skipper far from cheered us when he began to narrate
how, a year or two ago, he had been caught by the winter just in the
same way, and his ship had been blocked for some months. He graphically
told us how they used to walk to shore, and of the jolly parties they
had at the Taku Hotel! Our heads, however, were turned in a different
direction; we were bound to return to India with the least possible
delay, and we shuddered to think of our fate. Providentially the weather
changed, our last cargo of bones was brought on board, as well as a
third and welcome passenger, Mr. Carville, of the Consulate Service. By
5 P.M. we were once more under weigh, steaming some ten knots an hour.
Here, again, Esau and Lassoo began to enjoy a new experience, for they
had never seen a big boat. Shahzad Mir had certainly seen one, though he
had never made a voyage. Amongst other topics, on cold, still nights,
on that vast expanse of unknown land, we had told them of the big
ships, and their faces had brightened up as they pictured the leisure,
comfort, and ample supply of everything that was in store for them. But,
alas! the next morning, with a beam sea on, the three men lay prone,
miserable, and unable to eat, while around lay the box of cigars we
had provided them with. Poor fellows! they wished they were back again
on the Chang, even along the shore of one of those dreary salt lakes.
Though smiling at their unfortunate plight, we sincerely pitied them,
and felt that it was but a poor return, after all the troubles and
privations they had undergone for us. We were heartily glad to find the
beam sea was of but short duration, and with its abatement our three men
revived sufficiently to enjoy the remainder of the voyage to Hong Kong.
[Illustration: LASSOO AND ESAU.]
Landing at Quarry Bay at daybreak on the 12th of December, we then
embarked on a small steamer, which speedily carried us up the beautiful
harbour to one of the wharfs. From thence we made our way to the Hong
Kong Hotel, and learnt there was a boat, the _Suisang_, leaving for
Calcutta that very day at noon. All thoughts of visiting Canton were
put aside—before even we had managed to fit ourselves out for this last
stage of our travels, we had embarked on board this fine boat; but
whatever requirement we had been unable to procure during so short a
time our generous skipper, Captain Galsworthy, was only too anxious to
provide. Our voyage was as pleasant as it is possible for a voyage at
sea to be.
On the 18th of December we touched at Singapore, where we thoroughly
enjoyed the ever-ready hospitality of the 1st Battalion Rifle Brigade,
who were quartered there. A dinner at mess, a stroll afterwards in the
magnificent gardens, as we listened meanwhile to the music of their fine
band, told us only too surely that our journey was drawing to a close.
On the 21st we touched at Penang, of well-known beauty, where the
hospitality of the detachment of the Rifle Brigade quartered there was
only equalled by that we had enjoyed at Singapore.
On Sunday, the 27th December, about 8 A.M., we were waiting for a pilot
to come and take us safely up the Hoogly. As we gingerly glided up this
changeable river we passed several boats outward bound. From each we
endeavoured, by shouting, to learn the latest news, namely, who had won
the Viceroy's Cup. Finally, a sportsman from some cargo boat, determined
that we should know, shouted out as few men can, for we just heard
"Patiala's Sprightly." At evening we had come to anchor, and early the
next morning were once more back in India.
It was no small pleasure to Malcolm and me to see the delight of our
three faithful followers, as they proudly tramped through the busy
streets of Calcutta with money in their pockets to buy whatever their
minds should fancy—they were, indeed, a conspicuous little party, with
their weather-worn faces, and apparel made up from bits bought at all
the places we had been to; with the astonishment, too, depicted on the
faces of Esau and Lassoo, and the well-earned swagger that our Duffadar
wore, as he explained this and that to his two bewildered companions.
But, apart from their outward appearance, which made them so conspicuous
amongst the Calcutta citizens, still greater notice would have been
taken of them had it been known how willingly and faithfully they had
served us under circumstances and at times which must have been far more
trying to them than to ourselves. Like our predecessor, Bower, we found
the hardest task of our journey was to part with these three followers.
Good fellows, how glad they were to be allowed to keep the enamelled
plates which we had carried for so many miles, not so much to eat from
as for digging holes in our continual search for water!
Duffadar Shahzad Mir, who all through had worked with unrivalled
determination, joined his regiment, the 11th Bengal Lancers, at
Nowshera, while Esau and Lassoo returned to their homes in Leh. Wherever
they may be, they will at any rate have two friends in the world who
can never forget them.
APPENDIX I.
BOTANICAL SPECIMENS COLLECTED IN TIBET BY CAPTAIN WELLBY AND LIEUT.
MALCOLM.
Allium Semenovii, Regel.
Alyssum canescens, D. C.
Androsace tapete, Maxim.
Arenaria musciformis, Wall.
Artemisia minor, Jacquem.
" nr. A. minor.
Aster altaicus, Willd.
" Boweri, Hemsl.
" Heterochæta, Benth.
Astragalus Hendersonii, Baker.
" nr. A. conferta, Benth.
" Thomsonianus, Benth.
Braya uniflora, Hook. f. et Thoms.
Callianthemum cachemirianum, Camb.
Capsella Thomsoni, Hook. f.
Carex Moorcroftiana, Boott.
Cochlearia scaposa, Hook. f. et Thoms.
Corydalis Hendersonii, Hemsl.
Crepis glauca, Benth (?) = Thorold, 70.
" sorocephala, Hemsl.
Delphinium cæruleum, Jacquem.
" nr. D. brunonianum.
Dilophia salsa, Thoms.
Draba alpina, L.
Dracocephalum heterophyllum, var. (?) = Thorold, 54.
Elymus junceus, Fisch.
" lanuginosus, Trin.
Erysimum funiculosum, Hook. f. et Thoms.
Erysimum sp. (?)
Festuca sp.
Gentiana tenella, Fries.
Glyceria distans, var. convoluta.
" " var.
Halogeton glomeratus, Camb. (?)
Iris Thoroldii, Baker.
Lagotis brachystachya, Maxim.
Leontopodium alpinum, Cass.
Meconopsis horridula, Hook. f. et Thoms.
Microula Benthami, C. B. Clarke = M. tibetica, Maxim.
Myricaria germanica, Desf., var. prostrata.
Oxytropis chiliophylla, Royle.
" nr. O. strachyana.
" nr. O. tatarica = Thorold, 39.
Parrya prolifera, Maxim. (?)
Polygonum sibiricum, Laxm.
Potentilla bifurca, L.
Ranunculus.
Saussurea Aster, Hemsl.
" Runthiana, Wall.
" sorocephala, Hook f. et Thoms.
" sp. nov. (?)
" subulata, C. B. Clarke.
" Thomsoni, C. B. Clarke.
" Thoroldii, Hemsl.
Saxifraga.
Sedum quadrifidum, Pall. (?)
Senecio nr. S. goringensis, Hemsl.
Seseli.
Statice aurea, L.
Stipa orientalis, Trin.
Tanacetum tibeticum, Hook. f. et Thoms.
Thylacospermum rupifragum, Schrenk.
Umbellifera.
APPENDIX II.
ANALYSIS OF THE JOURNEY, WITH READINGS OF BAROMETER AND THERMOMETER.
+--------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+-----------+-----------------------+
| Date. | Place. |Distance |Baro- |Thermo-|Approximate| Remarks. |
| | |travelled|meters.|meters.|height in | |
| | |in miles.| |(Fahr.)|feet above | |
| | | | | |sea level. | |
+--------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+-----------+-----------------------+
| | Srinagar | — | 25·25 | 60° | 5,250 | |
| May 4 | Leh | 0 | 20·225| 48° | 11,530 | |
| " 7 | Chumatang | 89 | 18·975| 44° | 13,273 | |
| " 8 | Numa | 23½ | 18·512| 46° | 14,008 | |
| " 9 | Donlung | 26 | 17·962| 38° | 14,730 |Water boiled at 186·4°,|
| | | | | | | temp. 43°. |
| " 10 | Shushal, Camp 1 | 18 | 18·175| 38° | 14,448 |Water boiled at 187°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 51°. |
| " 12 | Mun " 2 | 25 | 18·205| 47° | 14,445 | |
| " 13 | Ludhkong " 3 | 15 | 18·35 | 38° | 14,077 | |
| " 14 | " 4 | 22½ | 17·42 | 30° | 15,440 | |
| " 15 | Niagzu " 5 | 21 | 17·635| 31° | 15,115 |Boiling point 185·6°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 41°. At summit |
| | | | | | | of Ann Pass—Water |
| | | | | | | boiled at |
| | | | | | | 181·4°, temp. 21°. |
| | Summit of Ann Pass| — | — | — | 17,483 | |
| " 18 | Nurtse, Camp 6 | 19 | 16·80 | 36° | 16,540 | |
| " 19 | Kona " 7 | 15½ | 16·15 | 36° | 17,635 |Boiling point 181·6°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 39°. |
| " 20 | Lake Treb " 8 | 25 | 16·85 | 27° | 16,200 | |
| " 21 | Tanjun " 9 | 10½ | 15·975| 43° | 17,960 |At summit of Napu |
| | | | | | | La—Water boiled |
| | | | | | | at 179°, temp. 40·6°. |
| | Summit of Napu La | — | — | — | 19,341 | |
| " 23 | Camp 10 | 13½ | 16·57 | 46° | 16,867 | |
| " 24 | Kerambutabuk, | | | | | |
| | Camp 11 | 13 | 16·835| 45° | 16,365 | |
| " 26 | " 12 | 17 | 16·30 | 30° | 16,553 | |
| " 27 | " 13 | 17 | 16·55 | 40° | 16,691 | |
| " 28 | Lake Treb, | | | | | |
| | Camp 14 | 15 | 16·80 | 39° | 16,215 | |
| " 29 | Lanak La " 15 | 11½ | 16·20 | 35° | 17,314 | |
| " 31 | " 16 | 17 | 16·35 | 26° | 16,878 |Boiling point 182·8°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 45°. |
| June 1 | " 17 | 14 | 16·425| 36° | 16,793 |Boiling point 183°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 34°. |
| June 2 | Camp 18 | 10 | 16·625| 30° | 16,349 | |
| " 3 | " 19 | 9½ | 16·35 | 38° | 16,967 | |
| " 4 | " 20 | 10 | 16·175| 33° | 17,193 | |
| " 5 | " 21 | 11 | 16·425| 43° | 16,943 | |
| " 7 | " 22 | 14 | 16·525| 28° | 16,519 | |
| " 8 | " 23 | 1½ | 16·525| 29° | 16,536 | |
| " 9 | " 24 | 4½ | 16·525| 29° | 16,646 | |
| " 10 | " 25 | 8½ | 16·50 | 32° | 16,749 | |
| " 11 | " 26 | 9½ | 16·625| 38° | 16,646 | |
| " 12 | " 27 | 10 | 16·65 | 44° | 16,713 | Boiling point 183·5°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 40°. |
| " 13 | " 28 | 9 | 16·80 | 55° | 16,588 | Boiling point 184°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 59°. |
| " 14 | " 29 | 12½ | 16·625| 55° | 16,848 | Boiling point 183·6°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 55°. |
| " 15 | " 30 | 7½ | 16·40 | 51° | 17,008 | |
| " 17 | " 31 | 10 | 16·425| 35° | 16,628 | Boiling point 183·4°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 47°. |
| " 18 | " 32 | 5 | 16·275| 32° | 17,166 | |
| " 19 | Camp by Fresh | | | | | |
| | Water Lake. 33 | 7 | 16·50 | 43° | 17,203 | Boiling point 182·7°. |
| " 21 | Camp 34 | 9½ | 16·30 | 53° | 17,130 | Boiling point 183·1°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 45°. |
| " 22 | " 35 | 12 | 16·30 | 60° | 17,341 | Boiling point 182·8°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 43°. |
| " 23 | " 36 | 7 | 16·60 | 68° | 17,248 | Boiling point 183·3°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 60°. |
| " 24 | " 37 | 9½ | 16·65 | 65° | 17,106 | |
| " 25 | " 38 | 9½ | 16·675| 55° | 16,917 | |
| " 27 | " 39 | 11 | 16·625| 63° | 17,159 | |
| " 28 | " 40 | 3 | 16·60 | 59° | 17,126 | |
| " 29 | " 41 | 13 | 16·80 | 64° | 16,876 | |
| " 30 | " 42 | 7½ | 16·80 | 63° | 16,876 | |
| July 1 | " 43 | 11½ | 16·60 | 48° | 17,109 | Boiling point 183·2°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 65°. |
| " 2 | " 44 | 10½ | 16·75 | 61° | 16,965 | |
| " 3 | " 45 | 9 | 17·00 | 50° | 16,382 | |
| " 4 | " 46 | 12½ | 16·775| 61° | 16,984 | |
| " 5 | " 47 | 5½ | 16·95 | 63° | 16,586 | Boiling point 184°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 48°. |
| " 7 | " 48 | 10 | 16·975| 47° | 16,400 | |
| " 8 | Salt Lake " 49 | 11½ | 17·20 | 53° | 16,088 | |
| " 9 | " Country " 50 | 12 | 17·075| 50° | 16,237 | |
| " 10 | " 51 | 12 | 17·05 | 54° | 16,322 | |
| " 11 | " 52 | 7½ | 17·125| 48° | 16,086 | Boiling point 184·6°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 54°. |
| " 12 | " 53 | 13½ | 16·85 | 55° | 16,649 | |
| " 13 | " 54 | 13 | 16·65 | 55° | 16,983 | |
| " 14 | Fresh Lake " 55 | 12 | 16·65 | 56° | 16,982 | |
| " 15 | " 56 | 13½ | 16·75 | 50° | 16,686 | |
| " 16 | " 57 | 8 | 16·80 | 49° | 16,566 | |
| " 17 | Camp 58 | 8½ | 16·90 | 48° | 16,342 | Boiling point 184·2°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 48°. |
| " 18 | " 59 | 8½ | 16·85 | 48° | 16,394 | Boiling point 184·1°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 46°. |
| " 19 | " 60 | 15 | 16·775| 52° | 16,615 | |
| " 20 | " 61 | 14½ | 16·70 | 53° | 16,790 | Boiling point 183·6°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 58°. |
| " 21 | " 62 | 14½ | 16·925| 65° | 16,624 | |
| " 22 | " 63 | 14½ | 17·125| 63° | 16,262 | |
| " 23 | " 64 | 13½ | 16·80 | 56° | 15,612 | |
| " 24 | " 65 | 12½ | 17·05 | 60° | 16,367 | |
| " 25 | " 66 | 8 | 17·10 | 54° | 16,183 | Boiling point 184·6°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 58°. |
| " 26 | " 67 | 14½ | 16·90 | 58° | 16,542 | |
| " 27 | " 68 | 14½ | 16·80 | 68° | 16,831 | |
| " 28 | " 69 | 14½ | 16·90 | 68° | 16,690 | Boiling point 184·3°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 79°. |
| " 29 | " 70 | 15 | 16·70 | 65° | 16,922 | |
| " 30 | " 71 | 16 | 16·75 | 60° | 16,784 | |
| " 31 | " 72 | 11½ | 17·05 | 60° | 16,282 | Boiling point 184·6°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 60°. |
| Aug. 1 | " 73 | 10½ | 17·05 | 60° | 16,168 | Boiling point 184·6°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 60°. |
| " 2 | " 74 | 12½ | 17·00 | 55° | 16,189 | |
| " 3 | " 75 | 16 | 16·90 | 54° | 16,346 | |
| " 4 | " 76 | 16 | 17·05 | 58° | 15,984 | |
| " 5 | " 77 | 16½ | 17·175| 57° | 15,836 | |
| " 6 | " 78 | 19½ | 17·125| 61° | 16,090 | |
| " 7 | " 79 | 15 | 17·05 | 47° | 15,990 | |
| " 8 | " 80 | 16 | 16·85 | 45° | 16,297 | Boiling point 184°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 50°. |
| " 9 | " 81 | 16 | 16·675| 47° | 16,699 | Boiling point 183·4°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 56°. |
| " 10 | " 82 | 16 | 16·55 | 39° | 16,614 | Boiling point 183°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 45°. |
| " 11 | " 83 | 5½ | 16·75 | 50° | 16,474 | |
| " 12 | " 84 | 1½ | 16·825| 48° | 16,338 | |
| " 13 | " 85 | 7 | 16·95 | 52° | 16,200 | |
| " 14 | " 86 | 8 | 17·05 | 53° | 16,046 | |
| " 15 | " 87 | 9 | 17·075| 48° | 15,948 | |
| " 16 | " 88 | 5 | 17·075| 50° | 15,847 | |
| " 17 | " 89 | 8½ | 17·15 | 50° | 15,897 | |
| " 18 | " 90 | 7½ | 17·225| 48° | 15,765 | |
| " 19 | " 91 | 9 | 17·175| 50° | 15,897 | |
| " 20 | " 92 | 5 | 17·20 | 47° | 15,832 | |
| " 22 | " 93 | 7 | 17·20 | 47° | 15,849 | |
| " 23 | " 94 | 6 | 17·20 | 45° | 15,829 | |
| " 24 | " 95 | 8 | 17·40 | 48° | 15,582 | |
| " 25 | " 96 | 9 | 17·375| 45° | 15,659 | Boiling point 185·1°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 49°. |
| " 26 | " 97 | 13½ | 17·40 | 53° | 15,723 | Boiling point 185·2°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 53°. |
| " 27 | Camp 98 | 8½ | 17·325| 54° | 15,674 | Boiling point 185·3°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 44°. |
| " 28 | " 99 | 3½ | 17·325| 48° | 15,609 | |
| " 29 | " 100 | 9 | 17·30 | 50° | 15,721 | Boiling point 185·1°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 51°. |
| " 30 | " 101 | 10 | 17·375| 47° | 15,610 | |
| " 31 | " 102 | 9 | 17·40 | 46° | 15,561 | |
| Sept 1 | " 103 | 11 | 17·50 | 47° | 14,714 | Boiling point 185·5°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 49°. |
| " 2 | " 104 | 13 | 17·55 | 46° | 15,234 | Boiling point 185·8°, |
| | | | | | | temp 43°. |
| " 3 | " 105 | 13 | 17·65 | 46° | 15,119 | Boiling point 186°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 46°. |
| " 4 | " 106 | 14½ | 17·725| 48° | 15,037 | Boiling point 186·2°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 52°. |
| " 5 | " 107 | 13 | 17·775| 44° | 14,846 | Boiling point 186·4°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 47°. |
| " 6 | " 108 | 7 | 17·90 | 45° | 14,544 | Boiling point 186·9°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 47°. |
| " 7 | " 109 | 12 | 17·925| 42° | 14,513 | Boiling point 186·9°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 42°. |
| " 8 | " 110 | 15 | — | — | — | |
| " 9 | " 111 | 15 | — | — | — | |
| " 10 | " 112 | 14 | 17·275| 34° | 15,457 | |
| " 11 | " 113 | 16 | 17·525| 30° | 14,992 | |
| " 12 | " 114 | 15 | 17·75 | 31° | 14,628 | |
| " 14 | " 115 | 18 | 18·85 | 45° | 13,145 | Boiling point 189·3°, |
| | | | | | | temp 45°. |
| " 15 | " 116 | 9 | 18·80 | 46° | 13,204 | |
| " 16 | " 117 | 9 | 18·75 | 50° | 13,319 | |
| " 17 | " 118 | 13 | 18·70 | 44° | 13,324 | |
| " 18 | " 119 | 13 | 18·35 | 48° | 13,855 | Boiling point 188·2°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 50°. |
| " 19 | " 120 | 16 | 17·75 | 30° | 14,613 | Boiling point 186·5°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 30°. |
| " 20 | " 121 | 16 | 19·05 | 45° | 12,713 | Boiling point 190°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 45°. |
| " 21 | " 122 | 16 | 19·475| 57° | 12,165 | Boiling point 191·2°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 57°. |
| " 22 | " 123 | 12 | 20·15 | 45° | 11,040 | Boiling point 192·8°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 44°. |
| " 23 | " 124 | 17 | 20·975| 50° | 9,920 | Boiling point 194·8°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 50°. |
| " 24 | Namoran " 125 | 12 | 21·50 | 61° | 9,453 | |
| " 26 | Ootoo " 126 | 14 | 21·65 | 60° | 9,260 | |
| " 27 | Bayan Gol " 127 | 23 | 21·65 | 64° | 9,311 | Boiling point 196·2°, |
| | | | | | | temp. 64°. |
| Oct. 1 | Kanoo " 128 | 11 | 21·625| 50° | 9,217 | |
| " 2 | Kakohulasun, | | | | | |
| | Camp 129 | 16 | 21·525| 55° | 9,408 | |
| " 3 | Ergetsu " 130 | 20 | 21·475| 52° | 9,457 | |
| " 4 | Talunturgin " 131 | 38 | 21·55 | 46° | 9,313 | |
| " 5 | Tamnamaga, | | | | | |
| | Camp 132 | 27 | 21·60 | 42° | 9,210 | |
| " 6 | Tuling Gol " 133 | 20 | 21·05 | 48° | 10,020 | |
| " 7 | Thanga Nor, | | | | | |
| | Camp 134 | 17 | 20·70 | 42° | 10,412 | |
| " 8 | Ootoo " 135 | 19 | 20·15 | 38° | 11,171 | |
| " 9 | Bookabh " 136 | 21 | 20·65 | 37° | 10,474 | |
| " 10 | Hatuturgy Cairn, | | | | | |
| | Camp 137 | 22 | 20·85 | 35° | 10,196 | |
| " 11 | Koko Nor " 138 | 22 | 20·80 | 30° | 10,208 | |
| " 12 | Baga Nor " 139 | 38 | — | — | — | |
| " 13 | Si-ho " 140 | 40 | — | — | — | |
| " 14 | Tankar " 141 | 16 | — | — | — | |
| | | ____ | | | | |
| | | 1983 | | | | |
+--------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+-----------+-----------------------+
APPENDIX III.
SOME CONDENSED METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.
MAY.
There were fourteen fine days; five with snow or sleet.
A north wind prevailed during the first half of the month; a west or
south-west wind during the latter half.
The coldest night was on the 15th (Camp 5), when 22° Fahr. of frost were
registered by the minimum thermometers.
JUNE.
Camps 16 to 42.
There were twenty-six fine days.
Snow fell on four days in the first week.
There was no prevailing wind, variable throughout. On some days there
was no wind at all, on others there was haze.
The coldest night was on the 16th (Camp 30), with 25° of frost.
The warmest night was on the 24th (Camp 37), with temperature 33° Fahr.
On an average there were 14° of frost.
On the 21st June (Camp 34), the maximum thermometer registered 110° in
the sun.
And on the 22nd June (Camp 35), 78° in the tent.
JULY.
Camps 42 to 72.
There were twenty-one fine days and ten stormy or cloudy.
Snow, sleet, or rain fell on ten days or nights.
The prevailing wind was north or north-west.
As a rule there was no wind in the early morning; it generally rose
about nine o'clock.
Sometimes dropped again during the early part of the afternoon, and
nearly always blew hard again in the evening, only to drop again after
dark.
The coldest night was on the 10th July (Camp 51), with 26° of frost.
The warmest night was on the 29th July (Camp 70), with 1° of frost.
On the average there were 11° of frost at night.
AUGUST.
Camps 72 to 102.
There were eleven fine days and eighteen with rain or snow, the greater
portion of which fell during the night. The wind was variable. During
the latter part of the month there were several severe storms, and many
others passed by north and south of us. These storms generally burst
over us in the afternoon or evening, coming up against the wind, from
the west.
The coldest night was on the 18th August (Camp 90), with 14° of frost.
The warmest night, 25th August (Camp 96), registered 40° Fahr.
The average temperature at night time was 34° Fahr.
SEPTEMBER.
Camps 102 to 127.
There were ten fine days and ten days cloudy, with snow or rain, and
the last ten days were very fine.
The prevailing wind was west.
The coldest night was on the 11th (Camp 113), when 25° of frost were
registered.
The warmest night was on the 5th (Camp 107), when the temperature was
35° Fahr.
The average amount of frost during the night was 12° of frost.
The temperature at 7 P.M. was as high as 64° Fahr. on the 27th (Camp
127).
OCTOBER.
Camps 127 to 141 to SHAPOHTSI.
There were twenty-seven fine days, two cloudy days, two days with snow.
The prevailing wind was east, often chopping round to west in the
evening.
The coldest night was the 10th (Camp 137), when 27° of frost were
registered.
The warmest night was the 13th (Camp 140), when 2° of frost were
registered.
The average amount of frost at night was 10° of frost.
During November and December we experienced a continuation of bright
clear weather with frosty nights.
APPENDIX IV.
EXPLANATION OF SOME UNFAMILIAR WORDS.
Auberge A medicine for colds.
Bhoussa Chopped straw.
Boortsa A kind of heather.
Bully beef Tinned beef.
Choudrie Official in a bazaar.
Chuppaties Unleavened bread.
Degchies Cooking-pots.
Ecka A two-wheeled native cart.
Ghi Clarified butter.
Hallal To kill according to Mohammedan form.
Hann A variety of Tibetan vegetable.
K'ang A raised platform used as a bed. There is
a fire underneath it.
Kumbuk A variety of Tibetan vegetable.
Numnah Felt saddle-cloth.
Palan A kind of saddle.
Poshteen A fur coat.
Suleetah Saddlebag.
Yakdan Mule trunk.
INDEX
A.
A-chia Fu-yeh, 285–6.
Ali, Shukr. _See_ Shukr Ali.
Allen, 398.
Ann Pass, 56.
Antelope considered as food, 180.
Argoons, origin of, 32, 247.
B.
Baga Nor, 257.
Baltal, 23.
Bana tribes, 238–9, 247; sham fight, 251; 252, 255; entering a
camp of, 256, 257.
Baramula, 4, 7, 10.
Barkhalu, 104–5, 112, 114.
Barong, 194, 215, 216, 219, 227, 234, 240, 246.
Batoum, 388.
Bayan Gol, 228, 240, 241, 247.
Blue Lake. _See_ Koko Nor.
Bota Pass, 223.
Botham, Mr. and Mrs., 329.
Botham, Mr., 329, 330–1.
Bower, Major, 3, 78, 81.
Bread in China, 324.
Brown, Colonel, 411.
Buddha, religion of: reincarnation test, 279; 282; etiquette,
288; K'ombo, 291; praying-wheels, 225, 291–2; 295.
Burhan Bota, 220, 233.
Burhan Bota Pass, 223.
Butterfield and Swire, 415, 416.
C.
Calcutta, 209, 421–2.
Canton, 415, 421.
Carville, Mr., 419.
Cash, Chinese, 361, 363–4.
Chagoti, 7.
Cha-Ha-La-Po, 381, 385.
Cha-Ha-Pa-La, 379, 384.
Cha-ka-ri, 385.
Chang, the, 188, 376.
Chang Chenmo, 47.
Chang Kia Tsai, 324, 331.
Cha-tao, 385, 394.
Chemre, 41, 47.
Ch'enkook, 261.
Chen-Lao-Pan, 263, 265, 267–8, 345, 363, 368, 371.
China: Tibetan tribute, 208; Tibetan trade with, 209–10.
China Inland Mission, 330.
Chinese peculiarities; etiquette, 265–6, 327–8; official
exemptions, 325; money, 363–4; school-teaching, 368; inns,
372–3; burial, 374, 402; measurements, 386; local terms, 388
(note); superstition (spirit's paper), 391–2; method of
rewarding by fame or infamy, 392; contorted feet, 405.
Chong-Chang-Tsi, 331.
Chong Wei, 330–2, 335–6, 341 _et seq._, 372, 383.
Chotenchenbo, 74.
Chu, 301.
Chulas. _See_ Fireplaces.
Chu Ma River, 1, 165, 202, 234.
Chumatang, 44, 47.
_Crocus sativus_, 14.
Cunjian, 43, 47.
Curzon, Right Hon. George, 7.
D.
Dapsoga, 223.
Darjeeling, 292.
Dass, Lala Bishan, 32.
Deasy, Captain, 65.
Denbigh, Mr. 415.
De Trouille de Rhins, 248, 296–7.
Domel, 7.
Donlung, 47.
Dragon Colt's Island, 278.
Dras, 24.
E.
Eggs in China, 372.
Egu, 41, 47.
Esau (Esa Tsareng), 32, 48, 54, 70, 101; bears ill news, 106;
112, 115–16, 121, 147, 149–50; goes off with Malcolm in search
of people, 173; returns, 174; 177, 184; sent to reconnoitre a
camp, 191, 192; his report, 193–4; 195–8, 201, 210, 224;
reconnoitring with Wellby, 228 _et seq._; 255 _et seq._;
offers a contemptibly small tip, 261; 316, 326, 338, 356, 379,
396, 417, 418, 422.
F.
Fireplaces (chulas), 92–3, 139, 185, 188, 221, 224.
Flora collected in Tibet, 423.
Flower temple, 294.
Forbes, Mr. W. H., 415.
Forbes & Co., 263, 342, 345, 346, 353, 367.
Fu, defined, 388 (note).
Fu T'ai, the, 284.
Fu-yeh. _See_ Mina Fu-yeh, Shertoch Fu-yeh, A-chia Fu-yeh, and
Mété Fu-yeh.
G.
Gabet, 376, 392 (note).
Gagangir, 23.
Galsworthy, Captain, 421.
Goa considered as food, 180.
Gold-tiled temple, 283, 287 _et seq._
Golok, the, 215, 218–9.
Gompa Soba, 258–9.
Goond, 20.
Great Wall of China, 383–4, 394, 396–7, 398.
Green glazed-tiled temple, 293.
Grey, 398.
Grosvenor, Hugh, 412.
Gulf of Pe Chili, 329, 330, 393.
Gunderbul, 19.
Gya, 43, 47.
Gya nullah, 42.
H.
Hadji, Bakr, 54, 65–6.
Hall, Mr., 262, 297, 319–20.
Hallaling, the bigotry of the men illustrated by, 57, 75, 128;
conquering prejudice, 139.
Hankow, 412.
Han-Shih-Pu, 331.
Han-Uen-Sheo, 303.
Hart, Sir Robert, 411.
Hatuturgy, 255.
Helmet Hill, 118.
Hemis nullah, 41.
Henston, Surgeon-Major, 416.
Herma, 43, 47.
Herring, Sergeant, 406 (text and note).
Himalayas, Western, 273.
Ho, General, 307, 309.
Ho Cheo, 300, 314.
Ho K'eo Tsi, 326.
Ho La, 263.
Ho-Lo-Si T'ai, 380, 384.
Hong Kong, 416, 420.
Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Co., 416.
Hoogly, the, 421.
Ho Tsui Tsi, 325.
Hsang Ho Ri, 270, 273.
Hsian Fu, 330.
Hsiao Hsia, 324.
Hsieht'ai, the (of Tankar), 265, 267–8.
Hsien, defined, 388 (note).
Hsi Ho, 270.
Hsing-Ping-Ho, 383, 385.
Hsiun-Hua-Ting, 298, 300, 310.
Huai-lai-hsien, 385.
Hua Miao, 294.
Huang Ho, 326, 337, 355.
Huc, 376, 392 (note).
Hunan, 274.
Hunan soldiers, 309–10.
Hunter, Mr., 329, 330.
I.
Ih-Tiao-Shan, 331.
Ih-Uan-Chuen, 331.
Iman Mula, 110.
Indus, 28, 40 _et seq._
Io-kia-t'ong, 385.
Irwin, Dr., 416.
J.
Jesus Christ, the point of reconciliation with Tsong K'aba, 292.
Jhelum, 7.
Juma, 113.
K.
Kaba, 51.
Kangan, 20.
Kanjur Rungyum, 252.
Kanoo, 246.
Kansu, 273–4, 375. _See also_ Mohammedan Rebellion.
K'an-T'ang-Tsi, 331.
Kargil, 27.
Keisir, 44, 47.
Kera, 43, 47.
Kerambutabuk, 72.
Kerinagar, 74.
Khalsi, 28.
Kharbu, 27.
Khe, an innkeeper, 401.
Khotan, 79.
Ki-mio-si, 385.
Knight, E. F., 23.
Koko Nor, 280, 311.
Koko Nor Lake, 238, 252, 255, 257, 278.
Koko Nor, Prince of, his daughter, 269; 283.
Kuei Hua Cheng, 374, 376, 384.
Kuei-Tê, 280.
Kuen Lun, 109, 110.
Kumbum, a visit to the monastery of, 269 _et seq._
Kushok, the, 204 _et seq._
Kyang (wild ass): described, 61; considered as food, 179–80.
Kyrma, 243.
L.
Labrang, 208 (note).
Ladakh, 18, 19, 56, 62, 63, 78, 79, 80, 89, 193, 222, 285, 335.
Lakes unnamed, 84 (fresh); 85 (salt); 92 (salt); 93 (fresh);
98 _et seq._ (fresh); 123 (two fresh); 125 (fresh); 129 (nearly
fresh); 131–2 (dried-up salt bed); 133 (big salt); 138 (fresh);
146 (larger shallow salt); 156 (brackish); 158 (fresh); 174
and 176–7 (fresh).
Lala Bishan Dass, _See_ Dass.
Lama of Chumatang, 44.
Lamayuru, 28.
Lanak La, 73, 75, 78 _et seq._, 93, 95, 141.
Lancheo, 114, 265, 297, 299, 305, 314, 315–6, 320, 324, 327–9,
331, 348, 372.
Lassoo, 32, 62, 106, 113, 147, 149–50, 182–3, 185, 191, 221,
224, 228–9, 324, 338, 379, 417, 419, 421–2.
Leh, 12, 13, 19 _et seq._, 28 _et seq._, 48, 51, 54, 55, 75,
107, 144, 189, 264, 422.
Leh, Wazir of, 112.
Lhassa, 31, 47, 69, 78, 130, 148–9, 153, 156, 193, 204, 208
(note), 209, 210, 233, 262–3, 267, 290, 292–3.
Li, General, 306 _et seq._
Li, nature of distance in, 386.
Liang-Cheo, 299.
Lickse, 42, 43, 47.
Lighten, Lake, 91.
Lin-Hsien-Sheng. _See_ Rijnhart, Peter.
Littledale, St. George, 7, 48, 112, 148, 323, 328, 348, 351.
Lobsan (Dsun Choni Lama), 233 _et seq._, parting from, 316.
Lou Ya, 324.
Ludhkong, 49, 52 _et seq._
Lumberg, Mr., 348, 351, 354; his servant, 354.
Lusam Kindum, 263, 267.
Lusar, 291.
Lu-Tong-Tsi, 331.
M.
Macartney, Captain, 335.
Macdonald, Sir Claude and Lady, 406, 411.
Macdonald, Lady, 412.
Machahoi, 24.
Ma Chu. _See_ Chu Ma.
Ma Huei Tsi, 325–6, 331.
Maie, 45, 47.
Malcolm, Lieutenant, 1; joins Wellby, 14; leaves him at
Srinagar, 19; swims across the Indus, 44, 45; pigeon-missing,
46; kills an antelope, 75, 99; shoots a yak 79, 182; 89;
doctoring Sulloo, 106; well-digging, 107; 113, 121, 123,
128, 134, 147, 149; discovers poisoned mules, 160; 167,
168–9; shoots a kyang, 170, 173, 189, 224; goes off in
search of people, 173; returns, 174; 177, 181, 192, 201,
210; sells a spoonful of brandy, 211; shoots a bear, 225;
sets off reconnoitring with Lassoo, 228 _et seq._; rejoins
Wellby with the Mongols, 232; 241, 255–6, 263; arrives at
Tankar, 264; receives a present from Lusam Kindum, 267; 320,
327, 341; at Pao T'eo, 368; 379–80, 398, 421.
Malik, Mahomed, 7, 11, 20.
Manasbal, 20.
Māné, 181.
Mangtza-Tso, 66, 69.
Marmots, 169, 186–7.
Marsemik La, 47.
Mason, Mr., 329.
Metaiun, 24.
Mété Fu-yeh, 290.
Mina Fu-yeh, 270 _et seq._
Mir, Duffadar Shahzad, 17, 19, 32, 46, 54, 78, 95, 113, 119;
strange cure for a stomach-ache, 144; 147, 148, 150, 155, 184,
191; the Kushok inquires why he carries the square table,
216; 226, 228, 326, 338, 346; mistaken for a Salar at Chong
Wei, 351; 379–80; missing, 390 _et seq._; reappearance, 394;
his opinion of the Chinese, 405; 419, 422.
Mitpah Conmah, 60.
Mitpah Yungmah, 60.
Mi-tour-chon, 384.
Mohammedan Rebellion, 274, 286, 289, 294, 296–7; the history
of the, 298 _et seq._
Monasteries, 27, 28, 269 _et seq._
Mongol Camp (long), 384.
Mongol Camp (short), 385.
Mongols, the, their marriage and death ceremonies, 245.
Mulbeck, 27.
Mules, varieties at Leh, 31; affection between mule and pony,
55–6; pathetic death of a mule, 83; more deaths, 85, 88–9;
a mutinous mule, 102; more deaths, 117, 119; reduced to twelve
animals, 125; mules reduced to three by poison, 160–1; a
troublesome survivor, 177–8; weights borne by Chinese mules,
315–16.
Mun, 51.
Murree, 7.
N.
Namoran Dawan (Pass), 223.
Namoran Gol, 227, 233.
_Nanchang_, the, 416 _et seq._
Nan-Kou, 385, 398, 402.
Nan-Kou Pass, 397.
Nant-sing-ho, 385.
Napu La, 60, 64, 72, 74, 75, 76, 77.
Ni, 44, 47.
Niagzu, 49, 52, 53, 56 _et seq._, 141, 212.
Nicotine Kontal, 252.
Niempe, 305, 331.
Nimbri (the Kushok's servant), 200–2, 207, 210, 212, 215, 218.
Ning-Shia district, 359.
Ning-Shia-Fu, 335, 342, 345, 354.
Noring Hol, 248.
Nowshera, 1, 422.
Numa, 45, 47.
Nurla, 28.
Nurtse, 61.
O.
Ootoo, 241.
Ordos country, 342.
P.
Pal, 48.
Palans, effect of friction on animals and suggested improvement,
76.
Palgez, Munshi, 35.
Pamir Commission, 17.
Pangong Lake, 34, 47, 48, 49, 54, 56, 148.
P'an Ku, 296.
Pao T'eo, 114, 342, 345, 354, 360, 365–6; in the city, 367 _et
seq._; 379, 384.
Peh Ma Ssï, 323.
Peh-sie-ki, 384.
Pekin, 280, 323, 364, 371–2, 376, 380, 384–5, 391, 394–5, 398;
in the city, 406; 411, 412, 415.
Penang, 421.
Peshawar, 13.
Ping-Chong-i, 304–6.
Ping-Fang, 305.
Polu road, 79.
Ponies, death of two, 80; death of the black mule's friend, 85;
more deaths, 89; death of last pony, 161.
Porandu Pass, 54.
Port Said, 365.
Precious Hill, the, 283.
Prjevalsky, Colonel, 183.
Pu, defined, 388.
Q.
Quarry Bay, 420.
R.
Rahim, Mahomed, threatens to turn back, 96; terrible result of
wrangling, 106; 112, 115, 117; despatched to scout, 131;
return, 132–3; 154.
Ralma, 47.
Ramzana, 10.
Rawal Pindi, 1, 4.
Renki Yang Hong, 367.
Ridley, Mr., 297, 316 _et seq._
Ridley, Mrs., 297, 304–5; farewell to, 320; 324.
Rijnhart, Dr., 269.
Rijnhart, Peter, 261 _et seq._; 320 _et seq._; services as
interpreter at Chong Wei, 345–7, 351; anecdote of a _lapsus
linguæ_, 352–3; 359, 364, 368, 376, 379–80, 382, 386–7, 396,
398, 402; his departure, 411–12.
Rockhill, W. W., 227, 260, 287 (note), 294 (note), 323 (text
and note).
Roorkee, 114.
Ruby (fox terrier bitch), 3, 23, 75; has pups, 78; 99, 117,
166, 168, 224, 241, 246; lost, 337, 341.
Rudok, 47, 48, 60; officials from, 69 _et seq._
Rundore, 66, 70, 74.
Rupees, curious predilection for crownless, 242, 260.
Russul, Ghulam, 112, 115, 127, 132; treachery of, 148.
S.
Sa-cheng, 385.
Sacred tree, 287.
Sakya Muni, 279 (note), 287–8, 398.
Salaki, 372, 384.
Salars, insurrection of, 299; loyalists, 304, 314.
Saspul, 28.
Seling Amban. _See_ Koko Nor (Prince of).
Selling Gompa, 248.
Ser, 223.
Sha-ho, 385.
Shanghai, 330–1.
Shang Tan, 323, 325, 331.
Shan-Kia-Tong, 331.
Shantong, 311.
Sheep, the last, 98–9; sacrificed, 108.
Shen-Chong, 308.
Sherchichaba, 263.
Shertoch Fu-yeh, 281.
Sherwos, 42, 47.
Shey, 40.
Shih-Tsui-Tsi, 342, 363, 365, 372, 381.
Shih-Rong-Wa, 379, 384.
Shishi, 241.
Shuen-hua-fu, 385, 388 (text and note), 392.
Shuga Gol. _See_ Shugatza.
Shugatza, 212, 214, 218, 220–22.
Shui-Peh-Ho, 331, 336.
Shui-Tsui-Tsi, 345.
Shukr Ali, 18; installed as cook, 20; 54, 107, 112, 115, 117,
132; readmitted to service, 154–5; 184, 191, 316, 326; paid
off, 335.
Shushal, 34, 45, 49, 148.
Shushot, 40, 47, 50.
Siao Hsia, 304.
Siao-si-fu, 385, 388 (note), 389–90.
Si Ho, 320, 323, 326.
Sin Chen, 376.
Sin Ch'eng, 326 _et seq._, 331.
Sind Valley, 20.
Singapore, 421.
Sining, 208, 264; Fu of, 284; 292, 297 _et seq._, 317, 319, 331.
Sining Amban, 238, 284.
Sining Ho, 257.
Sining, the Tao Tai, 298–9, 303.
Sin-Tien-Pu, 301.
Si-Yang Ho, 384.
Sokpor Mongols. _See_ Tsokpo.
Sonamerg, 23.
Southern Valley, 296.
Srinagar, 7 _et seq._, 19.
Su-kia-pu, 309.
Sulloo, terrible accident to, 106 _et seq._, 113, 120, 121;
refuses to travel any more, 122, 127, 129.
Sumud Shah family, 10, 11.
Swedish Mission-house at Pao T'eo, 367 _et seq._
T.
Ta Ho, 264.
T'ah-rï-sï, 308.
T'ah Ri Ssi. _See_ Kumbum.
Ta Hsia, 324.
Ta Koe Ri, 270.
Ta-La-Pai, 331.
Talé Lama, the, 210, 270.
T'ang, Colonel, 306.
Tanjun, 65.
Tankar, 194, 209 (note), 210, 215, 246, 255, 257–9, 261–5,
269–70, 317, 342, 364, 365.
Tankar, Mayor of, 264–5.
Ta-ri-tsi, 384.
Ta Sand. _See_ Ho La.
Tashgam, 27.
Ta T'ung, 325.
Temple of the God of Literature, 301.
Temples. _See_ Gold-Tiled Temple, Green Glazed-Tiled Temple,
Flower Temple, Temple of Pan Ku, Peh Ma Ssï; curious Buddhist
temple, 375–6.
Teng, General, 299 _et seq._
Tents, abandoned, 95.
Teo-tao-keo, 385.
Theodolite, breaking of, 135.
Tibetans: routine of the camp, 204 _et seq._; courtesy and
honesty, 208.
Tickse, 40, 41, 47.
Tien Tsin, 330, 385, 411, 416.
Ting, defined, 388 (note).
Tippoo, 18, 23.
Tiri, 44.
Tokhta, 13, 19, 112, 113–15, 121; refuses to travel any more,
122; 127, 129.
Tong Hills, 213.
Tong Ku, 416, 417.
To-Pa, 301, 310, 313.
Tour-tsi, 384.
Treb, Lake, 63, 76, 77.
Trench, Captain, 18, 75.
Tsaidam, 1, 215, 219–221, 227, 234, 264, 280, 316 (note).
Ts'ai T'a, 263.
Tsang-po-chu. _See_ Indus.
Tsareng, Esa. _See_ Esau.
Tsokpo Mongols, 229 _et seq._
Tsong K'aba, 283, 287–90, 292.
Tsongt'u. _See_ Sining Amban.
Tuling. _See_ Selling Gompa.
Tuling Gol, 246, 247.
Tundu, 75.
Turkistan, 73, 130, 187, 248.
U.
Uang, Major, 299.
Uei-Kuang-Tao, General, 309, 310.
Umballa, 1.
Upchi, 42, 47.
Usman, 35, 36, 113, 143.
V.
Vaughan, 38.
W.
Walker, 398.
Ward, 38.
Wei Fou T'ai, General, 274.
Wellby, Captain: engages men, 7, 13; falls from his horse,
42; warned, 48–9; consultation with Rudok officials, 72;
retreats across the Napu La, 74 _et seq._; goes in search
of lost animals, 89; bathing, 99; yak-shooting, 117, 139,
182, 211; leaving the sick men behind, 122; shooting running
antelope, 128; desertion of the muleteers, 147; reappearance
of deserters, 152–5; rearranges the loads after calamitous
death of mules, 161–2; in lack of food, 168; shoots hares,
169, 177; difficult conquest of a kyang, 176; discovers a
māné, 181; shoots a goa, 183; crossing a difficult river,
184; signs of an encampment, 188; with the Tibetan merchants,
197 _et seq._; quits the Kushok's camp, 219; comes across
signs of an unfortunate caravan, 222; observes a large
prayer-wheel in a stone building, 225; sets off with Esau
to reconnoitre, 228; meets some young Mongols, 229 _et seq._;
first sight of Mongol tents, 241; in Lobsan's family tent,
243; appropriates an inscribed bone in a wonderful cave, 252;
the coldest night, 255; entering a Bana camp, 256; arrives
at Tankar, 259; Mr. Rijnhart, 261 _et seq._; visits the
monastery of Kumbum, 269 _et seq._; ghastly signs of the
Mohammedan Rebellion, 296; Mr. and Mrs. Ridley, 297; first
experience of a Chinese inn, 323; loses Ruby, 337; vexations
at Chong Wei, 346–7; on the Yellow River, 354 _et seq._; Pao
T'eo, 367 _et seq._; reaches Pekin, 406; carters arrested and
beaten, 412, 415; arrival at Tong Ku, 417; on board the
_Nanchang_, 418; at Hong Kong, 420; Singapore, 421; Calcutta,
421–2.
"_Where Three Empires Meet_," 23.
White Horse Temple. _See_ Peh Ma Ssï.
Whitewashing, strange way of, 286.
Wo-Ku-Shan-Ho, 383.
Wolf, Eugène, 412.
Wu La, 273.
Wupu, 264.
Wu Tai, temple of, 375.
Y.
Yak: cemetery, 175; considered as food, 177, 179, 181;
shooting, is it dangerous?, 183–4.
Yakiki, 43, 47.
Yang, Colonel. _See_ Hsieht'ai.
Yangtse Kiang, 1, 234.
Yarkand, 335.
Yellow River. _See_ Huang Ho.
Yellow Sect, 288.
Younghusband, Captain, 17, 18.
Z.
Zoji La Pass, 23, 24.
[Illustration:
SKETCH MAP
OF
TIBET AND NORTHERN CHINA
Showing the journey of
CAPT. M. S. WELLBY AND LIEUT. MALCOLM
FROM LEH TO PEKING.
Map to accompany "Through Unknown Tibet"]
[Illustration:
MAP SHOWING
CAPT. M. S. WELLBY'S AND LT. MALCOLM'S ROUTE
ACROSS
NORTHERN TIBET.]
FOOTNOTES:
[1] Captain Deasy, who marched over this same pass a few weeks
later, calculated its height to be over 19,000 feet.
[2] The annual tribute from Lhassa to the Chinese Emperor does
not travel by this road, but goes by Labrang.
[3] When we first joined the caravan on September 8th, they
said they had been two months and twenty-five days on the
road. They were expected in Tankar soon after we left, which
was on October 17th.
[4] There are about seventy of these "incarnate saints" at
Kumbum, among whom Mina Fu-yeh ranks sixth or seventh.
[5] Wei Fou T'ai, sent from Hunan to quell the rebellion.
[6] Fu-yeh is the Chinese equivalent of Buddha.
[7] Mina Fu-yeh is now in either his sixteenth or
twenty-second lifetime; I am not sure which, so have given the
lesser number in the text. This, is, of course, only since
he became an incarnate saint; there are no records of his
previous lives. Sakya Muni had altogether 551 lives, 510 of
which were prior to his becoming a saint.
[8] Mina Fu-yeh's abbotship came to rather an abrupt
termination owing to a quarrel with another influential Buddha
called Shertoch Fu-yeh. At the time of the rebellion the
priests were greatly exercised in their minds as to whether
they should fight against the rebels or not. Most of the
older men said that fighting was no part of a priest's duty,
while the younger men were keen to be in the thick of it. Mina
Fu-yeh, who was then abbot, said that they should not go out
to fight, but that they should make every preparation, and
if the monastery was attacked they should defend it to the
last, otherwise they ought not to mix in worldly strife. This
did not please the war party, who were headed by Shertoch
Fu-yeh, and who made up their minds that fight they would.
They went out on three separate occasions, and without doing
any good; several were killed, a terrible thing for a devout
Buddhist, for he who dies a violent death is reincarnated
in an animal, and must complete a cycle of sixty lifetimes
before he can again become a man. This made the war party
even more bitter against Mina Fu-yeh, as they realised how
much wiser the course he had recommended would have been, and
so inimical did they become that he had to resign his post
and for some time was in fear of his life. Most of them speak
rather disparagingly of his successor, who is, they said, an
insignificant Buddha, only in his third or fourth lifetime.
[9] Mr. W. W. Rockhill states that he was informed by Mr. W.
B. Hemsley that this tree is the "white sandal-wood." ("Diary
of a Journey through Mongolia and Tibet," p. 68.)
[10] On former occasions he had stated to Rijnhart that he
would not go to Lhassa this lifetime, having been there in
his last.
[11] I cannot help thinking that this is the stone mentioned
by Mr. W. W. Rockhill ("Diary of a Journey through Mongolia
and Tibet," p. 69) as being in the north-east corner of the
Gold-Tiled Temple. He does not appear to have been inside
the latter building, and we certainly saw no stone there
resembling his.
[12] This act on the part of the Commander-in-Chief was
greatly resented by the people of Sining, for which reason,
it was supposed, he was afraid to enter the city on the 2nd
and 3rd. The officials of Sining flatly refused to acquiesce
in the Commander-in-Chief's acceptation of submission.
[13] "Dsun" signifying the particular division of the Tsaidam
from which he came, the remainder being really his name.
[14] A photograph of this temple, as it used to be, faces
page 64 of Rockhill's "Diary of a Journey through Mongolia
and Tibet."
[15] Shuen-Hua-Fu is erroneously called a "Fu," for,
strictly speaking, it is a Hsien. A Fu as nearly as possible
corresponds to our "city" and a "Hsien" is only equal to a
town, while a "Ting" is a place of the third class. A "Pu,"
properly speaking, means a fort, and appears to be equal to a
"Ting" in importance. In some instances a city may have risen
or fallen in importance since its title was originally fixed,
such as, for instance, the city of Siao-Si-Fu, which is not
much larger than a "Ting." In all towns of importance there
is a yamen or magistrates' office, and the head civil official
there is called a Fut'ai or Hsient'ai, as the case may be. In
any large district there is also a higher official called a
Taot'ai.
[16] Shahzad Mir, too, knew the direction of Pekin, so was
not likely to wander off in a wrong direction.
[17] Huc and Gabet state that Tibetans have a practice
of throwing these paper horses to the winds, and they are
supposed to help travellers in distress.
[18] Huang-mi means yellow rice, just as Huang-ho means yellow
river.
[19] Each camel man has a string of six animals, to the last
of which a bell is attached. The owner has hold of the leading
camel, and, as long as he hears the bell, he knows the rest
are following all right; if it ceases he knows something is
wrong.
[20] Sergeant Herring, formerly of the 2nd Life Guards and
Metropolitan Police, remembers well the time when he was a
member of the mounted escort allowed our ambassador in Pekin
in days gone by.
[21] Our tickets cost sixty-five cents each. This railway had
been open eleven years, and was at this time paying fifteen
and a half per cent.
[22] Distances in miles start from Leh.