WITH THE MONGOLS—A HOSPITABLE OLD LADY—ON THE WAY TO TANKAR—A
POISONOUS STREAM—BANA TENTS—I ABSTRACT AN INSCRIBED BONE—OUR
COLDEST NIGHT—A WONDERFUL PLACE—KANJUR RUNGYUM.
It was arranged that on the following morning we should move on a two
days' journey to Lobsan's tents, which were situated on the banks of
the River Bayan Gol, where plans could be better formed for completing
this last portion of our journey. We almost wished we had gone off to
Barong, which lay a few miles south of us. The Tibetan merchants had
told us that we should be able to hire camels there; but then, again,
the Mongols assured us that although we might be able to hire camels,
it was quite certain that the owners would not venture across the
Bana country with so small a party, and that we should have to await
the arrival of the Tibetan merchants, which would cause two or three
weeks' delay, and perhaps more, but that if we did not mind that we had
better go to Barong. We decided that our best plan was to stick to our
Mongols, who thus far had treated us so well, and who, we felt sure,
would eventually agree to take us to China.
Our first day lay through a land of thick hermok bushes and grass,
including a sandy plain, the whole party being mounted on stout ponies.
Towards evening we halted by a spring in a small grassy plain. Here we
found other Mongols, and it was evident that this spot, called Ootoo,
was a regular camping ground.
With the help of a bright moon, we found them before daybreak loading up
the ponies again, and as we continued our journey through the bush and
grass country we saw several hares, pheasants, and goa. After a couple
of miles we saw Mongol tents for the first time. These tents, which were
made of sticks and thick felt, were of circular shape, with conical top,
and had a small opening for a door. Scattered around them were numbers
of sheep, goats, cows, ponies, and big black long-haired dogs, whose
bark and attitude, apparently dangerous, were in reality harmless, for
they were generally put to rout by the little terrier Ruby.
After a five hours' ride we halted to graze the ponies on the banks of a
stream called Shishi, which flowed in a southerly direction and at this
time of the year was easily fordable. We were soon on the move again,
for the Mongols were anxious to reach their tents before nightfall.
As we wended our way through the hermok bushes, Malcolm and I loitered
behind to devour some of their berries. So busily engaged were we that
we forgot how far behind we were, and on resuming our ride found we had
wandered off the track, and could see no signs of our little party.
Separating, and keeping one another in view, we rode on in what we
considered would be the proper direction, riding up every piece of
high ground we came to for a better view. From one of these eminences
Malcolm saw some ponies grazing in the distance. On our reaching them,
they proved to be ponies belonging to some Mongols living on the banks
of a river. We found there many groups of tents, from whose owners we
learnt that Lobsan lived further up the river, so knew we had reached
the banks of the Bayan Gol. After passing several other tents with the
usual amount of cattle, we discovered just after sunset that Lobsan's
tents were situated on the opposite bank. We found the river some three
feet deep and twenty yards across, and though the water was fairly
clear, and flowing fast, it was safer to cross the river as rapidly as
possible, for otherwise one was liable to sink into the soft mud that
lines the bottom in these parts.
Our little camp was already pitched a couple of hundred yards from
Lobsan's tent, and he, good-hearted fellow, was soon by our side with
a supply of good tea and milk, of which attention and refreshment we
showed our approval by holding up our thumbs and repeating the word
"Hoch! Hoch!"
We broke the Sabbath by buying more tsampa and mar. It was curious to
see these people examining each rupee, those with a crown on the Queen's
head being separated from those without one, the crownless ones being
far more appreciated, for some reason or other we could not discover.
We spent three days by Lobsan's tents, and the better we became
acquainted with these people the more we were able to testify to their
kindly dispositions. Throughout the stay our camp formed a general
place of gathering from morn till eve, all coming to sight-see, barter,
and gossip, so that we were seldom left to ourselves. Their talk was
principally about "gourmo," which means rupees. They formed picturesque
groups with their beaming faces. All the men wore black knee-boots,
and thick sheepskin cloaks tucked in at the waist to adjust them to
a convenient length, so as to hang over their breeches of the same
material. These cloaks are generally slipped half off on a warm day,
leaving one arm and part of their body bare. A leather hat with a white
fur rim, and a red or blue top with a red tassel, was kept in its place
by means of a chin-strap. There were other hats of nondescript shape.
Many of them smoked the long and small-bowled pipe.
Sometimes they would bring us some fresh article to buy, notably
vermicelli or kua mien from China, and millet, called "turma" by Mongols
and "churma" by Tibetans. They doubtless led a very happy life, and had
but little to think about. Their wants, in the shape of mutton, milk,
grain, and fruit, were provided with very little labour. Their ponies,
camels, and fat-tailed sheep, both black, white, and brown, required but
little looking after in this peaceful district. In accordance with the
seasons, they move off with their flocks to the place where we first saw
them, or to the good grazing on the banks of the Namoran Gol. Another
home with stone walls is ready for them a few miles away, in the village
of Kyrma.
One afternoon we accepted an invitation from Lobsan to tea in his
family tent. We had to stoop to enter by the door, which was only four
feet high, and made by inserting two stout beams in the ground, which
supported a third one. The door was closed by letting down a thick piece
of felt.
In the middle of the tent we found a large shallow saucepan, which was
held up about a foot from the ground by three iron legs, underneath
which was the fire to warm the tea, and directly above this was a hole
in the conical top of the tent, to let out the smoke. The tent was about
twelve feet in diameter, and the custom is to sit round the tea, which
is brewed for the whole circle. We were soon seated with the rest of the
family, and one old lady, as mistress of the ceremony, stirred up the
boiling tea, and ladled it out into small bowls for each of us in turn.
Together with our tea was also served a quantity of tsampa and ground
cheese. During this sociable meal others came in to participate in it,
or perhaps more probably to have a closer inspection of ourselves,
while others left to make room. We, too, were equally interested in
scrutinizing the old and young of both sexes in their own home.
After we had drunk as much tea as we could, and more than was good for
us, the old lady produced a large vessel of curds, a special luxury
in honour of ourselves, and I regret to say that we could not do the
justice to it that was expected from us. After this we were glad to get
outside into the fresh air, for the tent had become very stuffy, and
we both remarked how impossible it would be for the coldest blast to
penetrate so snug a home.
Few of these Mongols possessed more than one wife, though, can a man
afford it, there is nothing against his having two. Our friend Lobsan
was of the latter class. A man is considered rich if he possesses a
thousand sheep and from ten to fifteen ponies. A marriage amongst them
is arranged in the following manner. The would-be husband sends a friend
with a piece of white muslin called a "k'artag" to the father of the
lady, who may either retain it or return it. Should the former be the
case it shows that his suit is accepted, and the lover at once sends
the father presents of money, wine, etc., and forthwith takes away his
bride, and after much festivity she becomes his wife.
Upon the death of a Mongol, the body is laid out in the open plain for
a few days, and a piece of cloth is placed inside the mouth. During this
time birds and dogs enjoy an unrighteous repast upon the decaying flesh.
When the feast is considered to be completed, friends of the dead body
visit the corpse, and whatever bones are still remaining they smash up
into small pieces and scatter to all quarters, so that every morsel is
carried away, and nothing remains in the open plains. This accounted for
our never finding any dead man's bones, though we did come across one
or two skulls in good preservation. Tibetans have three different ways
of disposing of their dead, the most usual being to place the corpse
in a squatting position on a hilltop, and then push it over the edge,
so that it finds its own last resting-place, and becomes food for the
birds. Occasionally burning is resorted to, and very rarely, in the case
of rich people, burial.
Throughout our stay with these people we always found them cheery,
pleasant, and though naturally curious, still inoffensive. They could
not quite grasp what I was up to when using a sextant in the middle of
the day to take our latitude, but when they were told that I was only
doing prayers, they withdrew.
On our third and last day on the banks of the Bayan Gol, all our
arrangements had been completed. Sheep and other supplies had been
bought for a good fortnight, and we had struck a bargain for our
transport. Lobsan was to let us have five riding ponies and five baggage
ponies, to take us as far as the town of Sining, in the province of
Kansu, a few miles across the border. For this journey of 300 miles we
were to pay him twenty rupees a pony, but as we had not sufficient money
with us, for we had spent it nearly all, we were trusted by Lobsan to
pay up the remainder at Sining. We believed that at that town we should
come across some missionaries.
Our Mongols spent most of the last day praying, and as their priest
had foretold that this was a propitious day to start on, and the one
they had chosen was not, Lobsan came to us, saying that since such was
the case they would like some of our things to load up and march a few
hundred yards up the river, and come back again, so that they might be
able to say they had started on a propitious day.
Early on the morning of the 1st of October we were ready to start, but
the Mongols caused so many unaccountable delays, that it was 1 o'clock
before we had actually moved off. The delay was caused chiefly by the
Mongol lama, who came and prayed earnestly with the men who were to
accompany us, and in order that fortune might favour their venture,
incense was burnt and carried round the homes of the Mongols, and the
ponies that were picked out for the journey. Our caravan consisted
of Lobsan himself and three of his men, all mounted on ponies, and
armed with two matchlocks and a spear of the extraordinary length of
twenty-five feet. They, in addition to our ten ponies already mentioned,
our flock of ten sheep, with the terrier Ruby, and our three mules, who
marched unloaded, composed the party.
In spite of all the preparations and prayers that had been held, we
moved off quite quietly, without any kind of demonstration, and, when
once the loads had settled down, we covered ground at the rate of over
three miles an hour, a great improvement on our accustomed pace. They
were all stout ponies, and very fat, from the splendid grazing they
enjoy, for no grain is allowed them.
As soon as we had reached a spot called Kanoo, where we were to halt
for the night, the ponies were set free to graze, before being tied up
close to us for the night without any covering. They were always let
loose again with the first streak of daylight, so that they should not
start on the march with empty stomachs. The Mongols always took care
of their ponies, never losing an opportunity of relieving them of their
loads and feeding them. They also used to change about: one day a pony
would be ridden and the next he might be carrying a load.
The marches had to be regulated according to the water obtainable. On
the third day, after going some six miles, we hit off the main road that
runs from Barong to the Chinese border-town of Tankar, and whither we
were bound. This track brought us to a clear-flowing rivulet, reminding
us of a trout-stream at home.
Here we made a midday two hours' halt. When it was time to start again,
we were astonished at the rapidity with which the Mongols reloaded their
ponies. They were wonderfully quick and handy, very different from our
original lot of Argoons from Leh. Their ponies were very tractable,
although ridden with only a snaffle or merely a headstall; and without
ever being shod, they stood the long marches we made well enough. They
were always marched in one long string. One end of the rope was held
in the hand of one of the mounted men, who led the way, and the other
end passed through the headstall of each of the ponies in turn. This
answers all right, but the animals can pick up no living as they march.
As soon as we had travelled beyond the neighbourhood of the Bayan Gol,
Lobsan and his men began to show their fears of the Bana tribes, for he
was always begging us to march with our guns ready, nor to go ahead of,
or loiter behind, the party. They themselves, during the greater part
of the day, were praying aloud as they marched, relieving themselves
sometimes by startling us with a loud, hearty song.
After leaving the stream, we came to the entrance of a narrow gorge,
where Lobsan said we must keep our guns ready, for the Bana men hid
behind rocks and appeared unexpectedly. His fears were increased by
the sight of some croaking ravens. He maintained that the noise they
were making was a bad omen, and to counteract the effect one of the
old muzzle-loaders was placed on its stand and fired at the birds, but
of course with no fatal results, for the croaking was redoubled, and
we continued our ascent of the gorge. We then crossed a small plateau,
and before entering another gorge we came to a stream, whose water they
never drink, for it is considered a deadly poison to both man and beast.
Although the water was quite clear, it tasted as though there was soda
in it. On account of this poisonous stream, we had to make a ten hours'
march before reaching any other water. Towards sunset we emerged into
an open plain, and riding on a few miles we came to a spring and fruit
bushes, evidently a haunt of bears, for one fine black fellow quickly
made away towards the hills on our approach.
Some distance off in this plain of Noring Hol lay a salt lake, on whose
further banks were the remains of two villages. These had been till
lately Mongol homes, but the owners had fled in fear and deserted them
on the approach of the Mohammedan rebels of Kansu, some of whom fled
this way into Turkistan, after they had been defeated by the Chinese.
In this neighbourhood we saw for the first time the crests of hills
covered with pine trees. Sometimes encampments are made in the valleys,
and articles are made from the wood.
On the seventh day of our march we came to the spot, on the banks of
the Tuling Gol, where lately there must have been a very considerable
encampment. The posts to which the owners had tethered their animals
still remained. Various articles lay scattered about, and the number
of large fireplaces that had been built, testified to the numbers of
the encampers. Here we learnt a small Chinese army had halted, in their
pursuit of the Mohammedans fleeing into Turkistan.
Two more miles beyond this we came to a miserable village, Tuling,
or Selling Gompa. This was quite the dirtiest and most dilapidated
collection of houses that either of us had ever seen, or want to see
again. All the inhabitants were either blind or lame or diseased in some
shape or form, and, clad in filthy rags, they lay about basking in the
sun and dirt. The big black dogs, blear-eyed and mangy, that crawled
about, were well suited to the place. It was an asylum for all lepers,
cripples, and other sufferers of these districts. It was close to this
village that the French traveller, De Trouille de Rhins, had met an
untimely end.
[Illustration: MONGOL CAMP: ONE OF OUR HALTS.]
At this point there are two roads to China, one branching off half
right, and the other half left. The former passes through a district
from which much salt is obtained; it is a shorter but rougher road, and
according to our Mongols a more dangerous one. They therefore elected
to travel by the other. There was a green valley up which the shorter
road led, where we could see numbers of black tents of the Bana tribes,
and their immense flocks of sheep, their cattle, tame yak, and ponies.
With the exception of one white tent, all these Bana tents were as black
as could be. The roofs of them were for the most part octagonal, with
a hole in the middle to release the smoke. To each corner a rope is
attached, which is fastened to a stick driven into the ground, and this
again is kept secure by another rope attached to a peg.
Now that we had come well into the midst of the Bana tribes, the
Mongols' fears were redoubled, and they kept watch throughout the
night. Soon after sunset they made up a number of big fires, so that we
might represent a large camp, and in order to accustom their ponies to
the noise of an attack, they rehearsed one, pretending that imaginary
enemies had fallen upon us. They fired off their old matchlocks, and
rushed here and there, crying out, "Ho! Hi!" We sat by a large fire of
argols warming our toes, as we watched the performance, unwilling to
help them with our guns in the terrible battle they were engaged in.
As soon as they had beaten off the foe, they, our men, and ourselves,
formed the three points of a triangle, and picketing the ponies in our
middle, slept soundly throughout the night, without further disturbance
from real or imaginary enemies.
Some ten miles from this camp we found a wonderful rock, standing out
conspicuous and alone in the grassy valley we were marching down. On one
side of this rock a small open courtyard had been built from big blocks
of white stone, some of which were a foot deep and broad, and two feet
long. The walls were some twelve feet high, while the courtyard itself
was about twelve yards long and eight yards broad. On many of the stones
were Chinese, and a few Tibetan, inscriptions, and on the interstices
between two of them we found a Chinese cash. Hanging across one wall
was a piece of rope, and attached to this were any number of hairs from
horses' tails and shoulder-bones with inscriptions on them. Just as I
had managed to cut off one of these bones unobserved, the whole rope,
with all its attachments, fell to the ground. The Mongols at that moment
entered, and although I concealed my bone, it was still a question
whether they suspected me of the deed; however, very little harm was
done, for they replaced the rope in its former position. Having entered
the courtyard, we found a large cave some thirty feet high, and of the
same diameter, inside the rock. But even still more remarkable than
the cave itself is the entrance here of a subterranean passage, running
all the way to the salt lake of Koko Nor. This wonderful place and the
courtyard is said to have been the work of some superhuman agency, for
the stones of the wall itself are considered to be too big and heavy for
any mortal man to have placed there. The place is called Kanjur Rungyum,
which means "sacred writings, not built by men."
At midday we halted by a small stream at the foot of a pass, called the
Nicotine Kontal, so that the ponies might rest an hour or two before
making the ascent. Our Mongols, for ever thinking of their Bana enemies,
determined to improve the hour by a little target practice. It was a
slow process, loading with powder and an irregular-shaped piece of lead,
which was shoved down with a wooden ramrod, then placing the powder at
the touch-hole, preparing the fuse, and resting the gun on the wooden
rail which they raised to sight the gun before finally applying the
fuse. They made far better practice at the target, which was 150 yards
off, than we had anticipated.
[Illustration: THREE REMAINING MULES AT KOKO NOR.]
After crossing this easy pass we travelled through a country of grass,
and on the ninth day of our march saw in the distance the small hill,
with its cairn called Hatuturgy on top, that lies at the western end
of the large lake of Koko Nor. The following day we found the country
inhabited by more Bana people living in their black tents; they were
dotted about all over the land, with immense flocks of sheep and
countless herds of tame yak.
That night was the coldest we experienced during our journey. There were
twenty-seven degrees (Fahr.) of frost, but, although we were sleeping
on the ground without any tent, our slumbers were sounder than they
sometimes are in a bed of luxury.
We journeyed along the northern shore of this inland sea, for people in
China, when visiting the Koko Nor, talk of spending a week at the sea.
This salt lake is about 230 miles round, with a few small islands. By
reason of its colour it is called the Blue Lake or Koko Nor.
As we marched along all day we overtook large herds of yak being driven
to the Chinese markets, laden with salt or wool. At midday we made
our halt by one of the several streams that run into the lake from the
ranges of hills. At night-time it was impossible to find a spot which
would be out of sight of these black tents. This induced our Mongols to
take more precautions than ever for their safety.
Much to their dismay, we agreed that I should ride on ahead the
following morning with Esau the last hundred miles or so to the Chinese
border town of Tankar. We knew how well Rockhill had been received at
the little inn there, and I hoped that I should come across Tibetans who
would help us to arrange for our onward journey through China. I hoped
to have all ready by the time Malcolm arrived with the Mongols.