A FOOTPRINT—SHAHZAD MIR INDISPOSED—DESERTION OF MULETEERS—A RAINY
NIGHT.
It was now the 28th of July, and we had reached a spot between our night
encampments 69 and 70, the day camps not being recorded in the map.
Since leaving Lanak La on the 31st of May, we had been daily finding
our own way across country, over mountains and valleys, along nullahs
and beds of rivers, etc., and at last we had found a track we could
follow. Such a sensation was novel to us. We could scarcely grasp that
there was no need to go ahead to find a way. We had simply to follow
our nose. We thought that our troubles were nearly finished, and for the
rest of our journey that there would be easy marching, and every moment
we quite expected that the dwellings of mankind would heave into sight.
Especially, too, when one of the men picked up a stout stick, three or
four feet long, which must have been carried there by somebody or other,
for since leaving Niagzu the highest species of vegetation we had seen
was the wild onion. Some of the men also declared that they had found
a man's footprint. Personally we did not see this sign of civilization,
but the men maintained there could be no mistake about it, for they said
it was the footprint of a cripple!
Besides all this comforting news, there was no need to be tramping
over the hills in search of game for food. The antelope, yak, and kyang
were plentiful and easily shot in all the valleys, and, had we been so
disposed, we might have shot a dozen yak during the afternoon's march.
When we halted for the night one of the wild yak actually came and
grazed amongst our mules!
We camped at the entrance of a winding nullah, along which grew rich
grass, and being tempted by the shelter, some of the mules wandered
up it during the night and thus forced upon us a late start the
next morning; but as there was a strong wind blowing, this somewhat
counterbalanced the otherwise too over-powerful heat of the sun.
Our track led up a fine grass valley, where we could actually smell the
wild flowers, but as we continued the track became less defined, till
eventually there was no track at all. We spread out to the right and
left hand, but without success. Whether it had turned off to north or
south it is impossible to say. For the moment we were disappointed at
the overthrow of all our hopes, and instinctively felt that our journey
had not quite come to an end.
We had been marching uphill, and at the top of the valley found a
fast-running rivulet taking its rise from the snow mountains that lay
south of us, the same range that had blocked our way and compelled us
to make the detour. Added to the work of once more having to find our
own way, the country took a change for the worse. Although there was no
difficulty about the water, still there was less grass, the soil became
slatey, and in places barren. Storms began to brew around us, but we
were lucky in being favoured with only some of the outlying drops. We
had a perfectly still night with one degree of frost.
It had been our custom, especially on dark nights, to make the men take
their turn of guard over the mules, to watch and see that they did not
stray. They were far too precious to lose, and by marching in the early
morning, felt less fatigue.
On this particular morning, 30th July, Camp 70, no mules were
forthcoming at the time when we wanted to load up, and it turned out
that the man, Usman, who should have been on watch, was fast asleep in
some secluded corner. It was only the previous night that this very
man, after unloading the mules, had been sent to fetch some water
for the other men and ourselves, but as we waited and there was none
forthcoming, another man was sent to see what was the matter. He found
Usman, having had a good drink himself, contentedly sleeping with the
empty water-skin by his side. We therefore had no inclination to go in
search of him on this particular morning, but after collecting the mules
from all quarters, loaded up without him.
Our twelve mules with fairly light loads seemed to be stronger and
fitter than they had been for a long time, no doubt due to the excellent
green and sufficiency of water they had of late enjoyed. We had besides
become better acquainted with the carelessness and laziness of our men,
whom we used to watch very closely, never trusting them entirely.
After marching about a mile, we crossed a narrow track running north
and south. Here again we were much tempted to take the northern route,
but as our mules were so fit, we still stuck to our eastern one, daily
expecting more than ever to find people.
Another inducement for doing so was that of late there had been little
difficulty in keeping all well supplied with meat. It thus happened that
when everything was in our favour, we were sanguine of accomplishing
our journey without any further mishap. We crossed over several cols
and saw fresh-water lakes, while yak, kyang, antelope, and sand-grouse
were plentiful.
Storms had been threatening a great part of the day to break over
us, but were held in check by some extra high peaks. In the evening,
however, we had crossed a broad sandy bed of a river, wherein a shallow
stream was flowing, and had just pitched our tents in a small sandy
nullah, well sheltered from the wind, when down came the rain in real
earnest.
We were sorry to find that Shahzad Mir had not come in, though very
shortly the man who was carrying the plane-table walked up, saying that
Shahzad Mir had stopped the other side of the stream with a pain in his
stomach. We knew quite well what was the cause of this. He had been
taking some chlorodyne and afterwards had eaten enormous quantities
of meat. As there was nothing to be gained by getting anybody else
soaked, we sent back the same man to fetch him in. The night was very
dark and the rain turned to snow, still neither of them came. Fearing
that on account of the darkness they had gone astray, we popped outside
and fired off our gun at intervals; still the ammunition was wasted.
Nothing but daybreak brought them back, when it turned out that they
had been so ridiculous as to sleep in a nullah only a few yards from
our camp. They had even heard the shots, but still could not find us.
Neither of them was any the worse for the outing, in fact the result had
been beneficial, for the stomach-ache from which Shahzad Mir had been
suffering was completely cured. They caused a good deal of merriment
amongst us all, and we all thought they might have selected a more
suitable night for sleeping out of camp.
The ground was covered with snow, so it was out of the question to think
of marching early. We were rather anxious to cover a few more miles that
morning. It was the last day of the month, and since leaving Leh we had
marched very nearly a thousand miles, and we thought we would like to
start a fresh thousand on the 1st of August. To our delight the sun made
an appearance quicker than we had anticipated and the snow was very soon
thawed, allowing us to move off again at 11 o'clock.
[Illustration: SHAHZAD MIR AT WORK.]
The day was fine and warm, and as I went on ahead to explore, I saw
below me some grassy hillocks, and, grazing in their midst, a fine yak.
I thought it would be interesting to make a stalk just to see how close
it was possible to get without disturbing him. I walked down the hill
I was on and dodged in and out between the hillocks, always keeping
out of sight, still getting closer and closer, till at last there was
only one small hillock that separated us, not more than half a dozen
yards. But when I stood up before him and he raised his head, for he was
intent upon grazing, and saw me, his look of utter bewilderment was most
amusing to see. He was so filled with astonishment, as the chances are
he had never seen a human form before, that it was some moments before
he could collect his thoughts sufficiently to make up his mind and be
off.
Further on were many streams, forming their own course over a very
broad, sandy river bed, all swollen on account of the recent rain.
Although we were at an altitude of 16,000 feet we felt no discomfort
in taking off our boots and stockings and paddling across and about
the streams, collecting bits of stick wherewith to make a fire for our
breakfast of venison and fried onions.
To-day we were only making a single march, and in the afternoon halted
by a pool of rain-water on some high ground, well sheltered on all sides
from the wind by a number of sandy mounds. From here we had magnificent
views of the massive snow mountains that surrounded us, looking grander
than ever from the fresh supply of snow.
In the direction we intended marching there seemed to be abundance
of water, but whether rivers or lakes were in store for us it was
impossible to make out. We rested the following morning, enjoying the
warm sunshine and the glorious scenery, and would fain have remained
there when the time came to load up and continue our journey.
The water, about which we had been unable to make up our minds, proved
to be a large shallow salt-water lake. We found it best to march round
by the southern shore. In some places there were tiny rivulets flowing
into it, which caused us some trouble in crossing, for the bottom and
ground around was muddy. Otherwise the going was good, and we marched
on till it was almost dark.
Our men that morning had behaved in a peculiar way, for each of them
had come to make his salaam to us; not that we attached much importance
at the time to it, still it flitted across our minds that they were
becoming very faithful muleteers all at once, and perhaps intended
doing better work for the future. That evening we impressed upon them
the necessity of making double marches again, as the last two days we
had only made single, and told them how impossible it was to march much
further without meeting somebody, and gave orders for them to commence
loading at 3.30 A.M.
On waking up the following morning we found no attempt was being made
to collect the mules, and it was 5 o'clock before they could be induced
to bring them all in from grazing. Then we noticed that muttering was
going on, but no attempt at loading up. Failing to elicit any reply from
them for their conduct, I upbraided them severely for their laziness,
and told them that if the only thing they wanted was to remain where
they were and not come along with us any more, to do so by all means,
but that Malcolm, Shahzad Mir, and myself, whatever they might choose to
do, intended marching. Thereupon they replied sullenly that they would
go no further, and hurriedly taking up their belongings from amongst a
heap of baggage, they moved off in a body in a southerly direction, and
were soon hidden from sight by the rising ground.
All this happened in a very short space of time, and fortunately, at the
moment of the dispute, Esau and Lassoo were a little way off, busy with
our things, or they too would have joined the deserters, as they one
day afterwards told us. As it was, when we began to collect the mules
again to try and load them, Lassoo was very uncertain in his mind as to
which party he should throw his lot in with. Had he gone off with the
muleteers, our difficulties would have been doubled, for none of us had
had much experience in loading mules, and, even with it, loading a mule
properly is no easy matter, whereas Lassoo had been a muleteer, and was
far handier and quicker at the work than any of our other men. This we
had already noticed, as he often used to give them a helping hand.
It was some time before we could collect all the mules again. Some of
them seemed to know there was something up, and there was every chance
of their being deserters. One little black chap in fact was so clever
at evading our united efforts to catch him, that we had to give him up
as a bad job, and load eleven animals instead of twelve.
We were reduced to so small a party that Shahzad Mir had to carry the
plane-table. Either Malcolm or myself, taking a mule by the head rope,
would lead the way, leaving only three to drive the mules along and keep
them together, and readjust the loads, which was frequently necessary
owing to our inexperience.
On looking over our baggage we found we had made one great mistake; we
had allowed the muleteers to go off with the twenty remaining pounds
of flour. But we had no inclination to run after them; they might have
led us a chase for days, by which time the flour would have been eaten.
What we were most anxious to do was to let these men see that we were in
a position to be independent of their help, for we surmised they would
very likely be watching us from a distance.
We learnt afterwards that these muleteers had deserted in accordance
with a preconcerted plan, formed even before leaving Shushal, on the
Pangong Lake, when every man had sworn to follow Ghulam Russul, whatever
he might choose to do, and they had agreed amongst themselves to leave
us as soon as the rations ran short. Furthermore, Ghulam Russul, whom
they well knew had been with Littledale on his last famous journey, had
deluded them into the idea that he could show them the way into Lhassa.
They had imagined that if they all left us, it would be impossible for
us to load up and march without them, and that we should be compelled to
remain where we were. At night-time they had planned to come and steal
our mules and ride on them to the capital.
As we moved off, we felt somewhat anxious in our minds as to whether we
should find water, grass, and droppings for our fire, for if we met with
ill luck we thought it quite probable that Esau and Lassoo too would
join the muleteers. This of course would have been suicidal to them, as
we were some 300 miles from Lhassa, which, as far as we knew, was the
nearest inhabited place, and the exact direction of it they could not
possibly have known.
We made a long march, longer than we had made for many a day, till
we came to a large salt lake, round which we had to skirt. Everywhere
grassy nullahs sloped down to it, and during the afternoon we came to a
secluded nook with a pool of fresh water, and all around were the dried
droppings of yak; evidently the place was a favourite haunt of these
animals. This was a perfect camping ground for us, and, to prove to our
two men how favourable our kismet was, we decided to halt. We all set
to work with the unloading and watering of the mules, pitching the two
little tents, making fires, and the numerous other little jobs always
connected with making a camp. It seemed peaceful and quiet after all
the grumbling and bickering we had been accustomed to. We were close
by the edge of the lake, completely concealed in a hollow by rising
ground on all sides, and we were rather anxious that the mules should
not stray too high up and disclose our whereabouts. We concluded that
these muleteers would not have sufficient courage and determination to
march straight away, and were prepared to see an attempt being made any
moment at capturing some of the mules.
Towards sunset we made preparations to guard against a surprise by
night. We fastened a rope to the ground, very securely, between the
two tents, to which we could picket the mules. In one tent was Malcolm
and myself, and in the other Shahzad Mir, with Esau and Lassoo. At dusk
we fastened all the mules to this rope, and arranged for each of us to
take turns in watching throughout the night. Another advantage gained
by this plan was that the animals were ready for us to load the first
thing in the morning. Had we allowed them to stray during the night our
work would have been doubled; as it was, it took us an hour and a half
to load up. We also decided to make one long march instead of two, for
being so short handed, all our time would have been spent in catching
the mules and loading them. Besides, as we could not let them graze by
night, we should have to give them more time by day.
Soon after dark, when everything was in readiness for the night, rain
began to fall; it rained, as the saying goes, cats and dogs, such as we
had never seen it rain before. All five of us were snug, dry, and warm
in our little tents, from which we could watch the mules, whilst the
deserters must have spent a most miserable night without any shelter
and food, and the hot tea which they all loved so much. We felt that
they were being deservedly punished for their sins. Esau and Lassoo
soon realized how much they had already gained by following us, and they
swore to stick to us through thick and thin, and this for evermore they
undoubtedly did.
It rained during the greater part of the night, so that the sodden
condition of the ground put all idea of early marching out of our head.
In order to lessen our work, and to make the marching easier for the
mules, we decided to load only ten of them, and let two always go
spare. We made a pile of the things we should not require, such as
the muleteers' big cooking pot, and their tent, etc., and left them at
the camp. By thus lightening our loads we reckoned we should be able
to march sixteen or eighteen miles a day, an astounding fact for the
muleteers, who had imagined we could not move without their aid. We
drew comparisons between the welfare of the men with us and that of the
deserters. The latter were possessors of all the flour and most of the
cooked meat and the tobacco, but no cooking pots, while the former had
three days' rice and plenty of tea, cooking utensils, and shelter at
night, an advantage they were already fully aware of.
[Illustration: The one behind the table also Known as Mina Fu ie
also Known as Kao ie]