EXTRACTS FROM A DIARY ON THE QUANTOCKS

_Spring_ 18–.

WALKED from Holford to my lodgings on the hill. Never remember to have

lived in such quietude. The cottage stands half a mile away from any

house. Woke very early the next morning and went down to Alfoxden House,

where Wordsworth and Dorothy lived a century ago. Here also came

Coleridge. It was almost too much to remember that they had trodden

those paths. I could hardly believe they were not there, and yet they

were dead—such a strange overcoming sense of presence and yet of

vanishedness.

A certain degree of ignorance is necessary for a summary essay on

creatures of this order. The expression of Dorothy’s soul is spread over

large surfaces. Some people require much space and time, and the

striking events of a life are often not those which are most significant.

It is in small, spontaneous actions and their reiteration that character

plainly appears. After prolonged acquaintance with Dorothy we see that

she was great and we love her reverentially and passionately. She could

look at a beautiful thing for an hour without reflection, but absorbed in

its pure beauty—a most rare gift. For how long can we watch a birch tree

against the sky? Here are two extracts from her journal in the very

place where I now am. They are dated 26th January and 24th February

1798, in the winter it will be noticed. ‘Sat in the sunshine. The

distant sheep-bells; the sound of the stream; the woodman winding along

the half-marked road with his laden pony; locks of wool still spangled

with the dewdrops; the blue-grey sea, shaded with immense masses of

cloud, not streaked; the sheep glittering in the sunshine.’ . . . ‘Went

to the hill-top. Sat a considerable time overlooking the country towards

the sea. The air blew pleasantly around us. . . . Scattered farmhouses,

half-concealed by green, mossy orchards; fresh straw lying at the doors;

haystacks in the fields. Brown fallows; the springing wheat, like a

shade of green over the brown earth; and the choice meadow plots, full of

sheep and lambs, of a soft and vivid green; a few wreaths of blue smoke,

spreading along the ground; the oaks and beeches in the hedges retaining

their yellow leaves; the distant prospect on the land side, islanded with

sunshine; the sea, like a basin full to the margin; the dark,

fresh-ploughed fields; the turnips, of a lively, rough green.’ That bit

about the farmhouses reminds me of two very early lines of Wordsworth

which are a prophecy of his peculiar quality:—

‘Calm is all nature as a resting wheel’;

and

‘By secret villages and lonely farms.’

(_first version_.)

The image in the first line looks rude and unpoetical, but will be felt

by anybody who has strolled observantly through a farmyard—say on a

Sunday summer afternoon—and has noticed a disused wheel leaning against a

wall. Wordsworth shows himself not afraid of the commonplace. A great

object may gain by comparison with one which is superficially lower or

even mean—nature with a cart-wheel.

* * * * *

Went over the hills to Bicknoller—a sunny, hazy day—and the Bristol

Channel was in a mist. The note of the cuckoo was unceasing. Down in

the valley at Bicknoller the hedges and banks of the lanes are in the

most ardent stage of spring. Everything is pressing forward with joyous

impetuosity, and yet is satisfied with what it is at the present moment

and is completely at rest in it. Along this path to Bicknoller the

_Ancient Mariner_ was begun. The most wonderful piece of criticism on

record is perhaps that of Mrs. Barbauld on the poem. She objected to it

because it had no moral. Coleridge replied: ‘In my judgment the poem had

too much; and the only, or chief fault, if I might say so, was the

obtrusion of the moral sentiment so openly on the reader as a principle

or cause of action in a work of such pure imagination. It ought to have

no more moral than the Arabian Nights’ tale of the merchant’s sitting

down to eat dates by the side of a well, and throwing the shells aside,

and lo! a genie starts up, and says he _must_ kill the aforesaid

merchant, _because_ one of the date-shells had, it seems, put out the eye

of the genie’s son.’

* * * * *

To the first draft of _Youth and Age_, written in 1823, there is a little

prose introduction, a reminiscence of the Quantocks, which is a lovely

example of the way in which one sensation gains by description in terms

of another. ‘ . . . At earliest dawn . . . the first skylark . . . was

a Song-Fountain, dashing up and sparkling to the Ear’s eye, in full

column or ornamented shaft of sound in the order of Gothic Extravaganza,

out of sight, over the Cornfields on the descent of the Mountain on the

other side—out of sight, tho’ twice I beheld its mute shoot downward in

the sunshine like a falling star of silver.’

* * * * *

Coleridge! Coleridge! How empty do the sweeping judgments passed on him

appear if we recollect that by Wordsworth, Dorothy, Charles and Mary

Lamb, he was honoured and fervently loved. If a man is loved by any

human being condemnation is rash, and we ought at least to be silent.

* * * * *

Wandered about Holford. The apple-trees are in full blossom. One of

them was a particularly exquisite survival of youth in old age. Its head

was a white-and-pink mass, but it leaned almost horizontally, battered

and weather-worn.

* * * * *

Thunder off and on all day till the afternoon. A low grey mist covered

the whole sky at five o’clock, and the landscape was uninteresting, but

in ten minutes the mist thinned a little, so that the sun came through it

and lighted up the torn vapour.

* * * * *

Went over to East Quantock’s Head and came back across the hill. It was

a dark day; the sky was overcast, and the moors were very lonely. The

thought of London and other big cities over the horizon somewhat marred

the solitude. Nevertheless there are the deserts of Arabia and Africa,

the regions of the North and South Poles, the Ocean, and, encompassing

the globe itself, silent, infinite space.

* * * * *

To Nether Stowey and Tom Poole’s house. In the hideous church is a

monument to him fairly appreciative, but disfigured by snobbism. ‘His

originality and grasp of mind,’ says the inscription, ‘counterbalanced

the deficiencies of early education and secured him the friendship,’ etc.

His ‘originality and grasp of mind’—his soul, that is to say, managed,

when put in the scale, to turn it against those deficiencies which are

made good to youths providentially directed to Eton and Oxford.

According to the slab in the church, Poole died 8th September 1837,

seventy-two years old. The house in which he lived in his later years is

a pleasant place, but has been tortured into modern gentility. His

revolving grate, which he turned round when he went out, has been

replaced by an approved cast-iron ‘register.’ He was called ‘Justice

Poole’ in the country round. Afterwards to Coleridge’s cottage—small,

somewhat squalid rooms. Pity, pity, almost to tears. The second edition

of his poems was published while he was here in 1797. In a note added to

_Religious Musings_ in that edition he declares his belief in the

Millennium; that ‘all who in past ages have endeavoured to ameliorate the

state of man, will rise and enjoy the fruits and flowers, the

imperceptible seeds of which they had sown in their former life; and that

the wicked will, during the same period, be suffering the remedies

adapted to their several bad habits.’ This period is to be ‘followed by

the passing away of this earth, and by our entering the state of pure

intellect; when all creation shall rest from its labours.’ The

‘coadjutors of God’ in _Religious Musings_ are Milton, Newton, Hartley,

and Priestley. In the beginning of 1798 Coleridge was preaching at the

Unitarian Chapel at Shrewsbury. But on the 13th November 1797, at

half-past four in the afternoon (let us be particular in dating such an

event), he and Dorothy and her brother began their walk over these

Quantock hills, and _The Ancient Mariner_ was born. These are the facts,

and rash indeed would anybody be who should attempt to deduce anything

from them. Of all foolish criticism there is none more foolish than that

which treats the mental movement of men like Coleridge or Wordsworth as

if it were in an imaginary straight line. Excepting lines 123–270,

composed in the latter part of 1796, Coleridge wrote his contribution to

_Joan of Arc_ between 1794 and 1795. _The Rose_ and _Kisses_ were

written in 1793, and _On a Discovery Made Too Late_ in 1794. Could

anybody, not knowing the dates, have believed that these three poems

last-named, if not written before the _Joan of Arc_, were contemporaneous

with it? In the _Joan of Arc_ Coleridge is immature and led astray by

politics, religion, and philosophy, but in the three little poems where

he has subjects akin to him he is perfect, and could have done nothing

better ten years later. Still more remarkable, _Lewti_, in its earliest

form, cannot have been written later than 1794, for it was originally

addressed to Mary Evans, from whom Coleridge parted in December 1794. As

an example of the survival of his poetic power take _Love’s First Hope_,

written probably in 1824:

‘O fair is Love’s first hope to gentle mind!

As Eve’s first star thro’ fleecy cloudlet peeping;

And sweeter than the gentle south-west wind,

O’er willowy meads, and shadow’d waters creeping,

And Ceres’ golden field;—the sultry hind

Meets it with brow uplift, and stays his reaping.’

Coleridge was indebted to Sir Philip Sidney for the third and fourth

lines, excepting ‘o’er willowy meads,’ but these three words and the

first and last two lines are his own. Not only does his genius survive,

but emotion as pure and deep as that of the Nether Stowey days or those

preceding. There is no trace of the interval between them and those of

1824.

* * * * *

In the post-office at Kilve hangs an old trombone, a memento of the time

when the village orchestra assisted in the service at the church. How

well I remember those artists and their jealousies! The clarionet or

‘clarnet,’ as he called himself, caused much ill-feeling because he

drowned the others, and the double-bass strove ineffectually to avenge

himself. The churchyard yew is one of the largest I ever beheld—twenty

feet in girth by measurement, four feet from the ground. A gay morning:

heavy, white masses of clouds sailing over the hills; light most

brilliant when the sun came out. How singularly beautiful is a

definitely outlined white cloud when it is cut by the ridge of a hill!

* * * * *

Across the hills in a south-westerly storm of wind and rain to

Bicknoller. A walk not to be forgotten: overcast sky, dark moors; clouds

sweeping over them and obscuring them. I should not have found my way if

I had not lost it when I went to Bicknoller before. I then put three

stones at the point where I afterwards discovered I had gone astray.

These three stones saved me to-day.

* * * * *

Whitsunday morning: sat at the open window between five and six: the

hills opposite lay in the light of the eastern sun. Bicknoller church

and the little old village were beneath me. Perfect quietude, save for

the bells of Stogumber church ringing a peal two miles away. Earth has

nothing to give compared with this peace. The air was so still that

delicious mingled scents floated up from the garden and fields below. It

was one of those days on which every sense is satisfied, and no mortal

imperfection appears. Took the _Excursion_ out of doors after breakfast,

and read _The Ruined Cottage_.

Much of the religion by which Wordsworth lives is very indefinite. Look

at the close of this poem:—

‘I well remember that those very plumes,

Those weeds, and the high spear-grass on that wall

By mist and silent rain-drops silver’d o’er,

As once I pass’d, did to my heart convey

So still an image of tranquillity,

So calm and still, and look’d so beautiful

Amid the uneasy thoughts which fill’d my mind,

That what we feel of sorrow and despair

From ruin and from change, and all the grief

The passing shows of Being leave behind,

Appear’d an idle dream, that could not live

Where meditation was. I turn’d away,

And walk’d along my road in happiness.’

Because this religion is indefinite it is not therefore the less

supporting.

Why, by the way, did Wordsworth expunge from _Michael_ these wonderful

lines?

‘In his thoughts there were obscurities,

Wonder, and admiration, things that wrought

Not less than a religion in his heart.’

Something like them had been said before, but they ought to have been

retained.

* * * * *

The changes in the sky in this Quantock country are as sudden and strange

as in Cumberland. During a walk from Cleeve Abbey to Bicknoller it

rained in torrents till within half a mile of the end of my journey. All

at once it ceased, and the uniform sheet of rain-cloud broke into loose

ragged masses swirling in different directions and variously lighted, the

sun almost shining through some of the clefts between them. Cleeve

Abbey, lying in the trough of a green valley through which runs a stream,

the cloister garth and the Abbot’s seat at the end of it, are most

impressive. Under the turf lie the dead monks. A place like this begets

half-unconscious dreaming which issues in nothing and is not wholesome.

It would be better employment to learn something about the history of the

abbey and about its architecture.

* * * * *

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