of rare birds to make over into presentable skins specimens which have
been improperly prepared. Prepare a dampening box by placing a quantity
of sand, dampened so as to just drip water, in any metal vessel having
a tight-fitting cover. Then wrap the specimen to be made over in paper,
lay it on the sand, and cover with a damp cloth folded several times.
Place the cover on the vessel and set in a moderately warm place for
about twenty-four hours if the specimen be small, longer if large.
At the end of this time the skin will be quite pliable. Then remove
the cotton and examine the inside of the skin carefully, and if there
are any hard places caused by the skin being too thick, scrape them
down with a blunt knife or, better, use our skin-rasp, and thus thin
them down until the feathers above are as flexible as in any other
portion. If there be grease on the feathers or inside of the skin after
scraping, wash with benzine, and dry with preservative as described.
When every portion of the specimen is perfectly pliable, and all
superfluous dried flesh has been removed, sew up the rents, and make
up as in fresh birds, but such skins generally require more careful
binding. It is also often necessary to wire the neck of even small
birds, especially in badly shattered and decayed skins.
CHAPTER IV.
MOUNTING BIRDS.
SECTION I.: INSTRUMENTS.--The instruments necessary for mounting are
cutting pliers (Fig. 12), or tin shears, straight-nosed pliers (Fig.
11), wire of various sizes, tweezers, and other implements used in
skin-making; leg awls, for dried skins, and awls for boring stands;
also stands of various kinds.
[Illustration: FIG. 11.]
[Illustration: FIG. 12.]
SECTION II.: MOUNTING FROM FRESH SPECIMENS.--Be sure that a skin is
perfectly clean in every way before attempting to mount, as it cannot
be washed nearly as well afterwards. Remove all the bodies of skinned
specimens well out of the way, and spread a clean sheet of paper where
the skinning has been done, that there may be no danger of soiling
the plumage. Make a body of fine grass, excelsior, or, better, the
peculiar tough grass which grows in shady places, in sandy soil, is
preferable, by winding with thread, moulding it so as to have it quite
solid, shaping it in the hands until it assumes the exact length and
breadth of the body removed, and as near its form as possible. Thus
see that the back is fuller than the under side, and that there is a
well-defined breast. Great care should be taken not to get this body
larger than the natural one; if anything it should be smaller. With the
pliers cut a piece of wire of the proper size, that is, of about half
the diameter of the bird's tarsus, and about three times the length
of the body. In cutting all wires which are to be sharpened, the cut
should be made diagonally across it, thus forming a point. Push this
wire through the body so that it will emerge in the front much nearer
the back than the breast, protruding so that it equals the length of
the neck and tongue of body removed. Bend over the end remaining at
the back, turn down about half of it and force it into the body (Fig.
13, c). This will hold firmly if the body has been made sufficiently
solid. Wrap the wire with cotton by taking a strip and winding it
gradually so that it assumes a tapering form with a portion of the wire
protruding. Place this body in the skin and push the protruding wire
into the upper mandible. Cut two wires of about half the size of that
already used, and twice the length of the outstretched wing. Work
these into the wings, beginning at the fleshy portion of the phalanges,
so on into the body, taking care not to allow it to pierce through the
skin anywhere. The wire should enter the body at the point where the
end of the lower portion of the forearm touches it when the wing is
folded naturally. Pass the wire through the body diagonally until it
emerges so that it can be grasped with the pliers somewhere near the
orifice, and firmly clenched. Next find the metacarpal bone, which has
a hollow place in the centre (Fig. 14, f), and force the upper end of
the wire through it so that about a quarter of inch shall protrude on
the upper side of the wing, and bend this down by applying one jaw of
the flat pliers on the side of the wing opposite. This will fasten the
wing firmly, and the spurious wing will cover the wire, while that on
the lower side will be concealed by the feathers. The wing should be
outstretched when this is done.
[Illustration: FIG. 13.]
[Illustration: FIG. 14.]
Cut wire for the legs of the same size as used for the neck, and about
as long. Pass them up through the tarsus, inserting in the middle of
the sole of the foot. Be sure the wire is perfectly straight before
attempting this. A good way to straighten wire is to place a pine-board
on the floor, stand on it, and then draw a long pull of wire under
it by grasping the end with pliers; or a small piece of wire may be
straightened by rolling it on the bench with a file. If the skin of
the tarsus splits in boring, it shows that the wire used is either too
large or crooked. After the wire is pushed up to the heel or tarsal
joint (Fig. 15, f), turn the tibial bone out until the point of the
wire appears, when it should be grasped and drawn up so that the point
protrudes slightly beyond the tibial joint. Wrap the tibial bone, wire
and all, with cotton or tow (in large specimens, the wire should be
bound to the bone with fine wire or thread) so as to form a natural
leg, then draw it back into the skin. Next force the wire through the
body at the point where the knee touches it, or about midway on the
side. The wire will emerge on the opposite side. Turn down the skin of
the orifice, draw the wire out, leaving about enough projecting out of
the sole of the foot to go through the perch of a stand and clench;
then fasten the end firmly into the body. On large birds, like eagles,
I draw the wire through the body twice before clenching, to make all
secure. This work must be well done if the bird is to be mounted
nicely, as it must stand firmly on its feet. As a rule, use wire large
enough, at least, to support the weight of the body and skin without
bending, but wire one-half the size of the tarsus is generally large
enough to do this. Cut a tail-wire which is at least as long as the
entire bird. Insert it under the tail, so that it enters the muscles in
which the feathers are embodied, taking care that it does not spread
them apart; push this up the centre of the body so that it will emerge
at an angle just at the upper portion of the orifice, and clench it.
Bend the remaining end under the tail twice, so as to form a T, on
which the tail may rest, and which should, however, have the top broad
enough to spread the tail on to the required width. During wiring see
that the plumage is ruffled as little as possible; also avoid soiling
by keeping the specimen on clean paper. If by chance the feathers
become greasy, they may be cleaned by sprinkling liberally with the
dermal preservative, which is afterward brushed off.
[Illustration: FIG. 15.]
Sew up the orifice neatly, taking care, as before described, only to
take in the extreme outer edge of the skin; and, if the body be not too
large, it will meet nicely. If the body has not been made quite large
enough, especially on the breast, some cotton may be placed between the
skin and body before sewing. This must be done neatly, with tweezers
however, not so as to form a wad, but spread out so as to blend neatly
with the curve of the body. Now place the wires which protrude from the
feet in holes bored in the perch of the stand, which should be about
as far apart as the bird naturally stands while perching. See that
the feet come well down on the perch with the toes arranged properly,
remembering that cuckoos, woodpeckers, etc., have two toes in front
and two behind, while with hawks, owls, etc., the outer toe generally
stands at right angles with the others, and should therefore grasp the
end of the stand. Either twist the ends of the wire together or wind
them around the stand very firmly. Now comes the most difficult part of
the task of mounting. Hitherto all has been merely mechanical; certain
rules had to be observed only. But now the instructor must pause for
want of words wherewith to express his meaning, for who can tell an
artist how to put in those bold and hasty strokes with which he maps
out his picture? He knows just what he is about, however, for he has
before his mental vision the complete picture, and strives to place on
canvas that which appears before him. So must the artistic taxidermist
have before him a vision of the bird he wishes to represent, with the
combined mass of feathers now in hand. Whether lightly poised for
flight or calmly sitting at rest, before he puts his hand to the work
before him let him fully decide what he wishes to produce. Let him
see it just as clearly as he sees the birds sporting in their natural
element. The true artist does not copy what the imagination of others
have produced, he invents for himself or takes nature as his guide. Let
us then who aspire to the highest in taxidermal art, take infallible
nature as our guide. Study carefully every poise of the birds,
every uplifting of the wing, every turn of the head or motion of the
eyelids. I have long made a practice of keeping birds in confinement
in order to thoroughly impress on my mind the different attitudes
which they assume. I have had nearly all species of our owls, hawks,
and eagles, and have kept herons, gulls, terns, pelicans, auks, and
almost countless numbers of smaller birds, and in this way I have
become so familiar with them that I can tell at a glance whether a bird
is mounted in an easy attitude. Well, there must be no hesitation in
mounting birds, or the specimens will dry; and I will merely state in
what order I arrange the different members, then leave the attitudes to
my pupils. I first see that the bird stands correctly, that the legs
are bent so that the bird will balance well in the position in which
I wish it to be placed. As a rule, a perpendicular line drawn through
the back of the head of a perching bird will fall through its feet
(see Fig. 16, _a a_). Now bring the bird into position, and fold the
wings just as the bird does it. Note if the scapularies, tertiaries,
and secondaries lie in their proper places, the first highest and the
others under them, which will give the bird a good rounded back. Now
place the bird in the proper attitude, with the neck properly bent,
remembering that in nearly all birds this nearly assumes the form of
the letter S, especially in long-necked species. I do not like to see
a bird staring straight forward, but, as this is a mere matter of
fancy, I will not presume to dictate regarding attitudes, only make
the specimen look easy. Be artistic, even if the specimen is going
into a public museum, where birds too often stare at the visitors in
grotesque attitudes. One can be interesting and easy even in writing
on the driest scientific subject,--why not then give ease and grace to
our museum specimens? No more room need be occupied; a slight turn of
the head, a twist of the neck, or an advance of a foot, will do this
just as a bird would do it if it were alive. Now place the eyes in
position, and these should be pushed well into the clay, and the lids
arranged over them naturally with a needle. Do not have the eyes too
large, as it gives the bird a staring expression, nor too small, but
as near as possible to the natural ones removed. It would be well in
ordering eyes from a dealer to give the measurements of the required
eye in hundredths of an inch. A good colored eye should not, in my
opinion, have too much clear or flint glass in front of the pupil.
This should be thinner and thus flatter, as seen in eyes of German
manufacture. In point of perfect coloring, French eyes are the best
and most expressive, but they do not have the requisite flatness and
the thinness of flint which the German eyes possess. English eyes may
be mentioned as third in the catalogue of quality, while America must
unfortunately come last. The above remarks, however, are true only as
regards colored eyes, as black eyes are almost always good, no matter
where manufactured.
[Illustration: FIG. 16.]
After the bird is placed in the required attitude, smooth the feathers
with the aid of small tweezers, noting that all lines and spots are in
their proper places. The primary quills should be kept in position by
clamping with fine wire; that is, a piece of wire should be bent on
itself like a hairpin and slipped over the edge of the wing. Spread
the tail by laying it on the cross-piece of wire under it, and clamp
it down with a piece of very fine wire, which is wound around each end
of the cross-piece. If the tail is to be spread very widely then run
a wire through the two outer quills, thus keeping them apart; though
even then the clamp should be used. If a convex or concave tail is
desired, bind the cross-piece in a corresponding manner. I do not, as
a rule, recommend binding freshly-skinned birds, nor do I consider it
necessary excepting in instances where feathers are rough. If a bird be
properly mounted a few more clamps on the wings will keep it in form;
then the feathers can be made to stand out as they do in nature, not
lie down close to the body as if the birds were badly frightened. This
is particularly noticeable with owls; a perfectly happy and contented
owl, who is pursuing his vocations, has apparently a body nearly or
quite twice the diameter of one that is frightened.
SECTION III.: CRESTED BIRDS.--If a bird has a crest it should be raised
by gently pulling forward the skin, where it will remain in position
after it is neatly arranged; but in case of a dried skin, it may be
necessary to prop the crest up with a piece of cotton, moulded on the
head of a pin, the point of which is sunk into the head.
SECTION IV.: MOUNTING WITH WINGS SPREAD.--In skinning for spread
wings, leave in the humerus as well as the forearm, and do not detach
the quills, as already mentioned. Wire the wing from the inside, and
clench firmly in the body; wrap the humerus to the natural size with
cotton, after fastening the supporting wire to the bone with fine wire
or thread. Push both wires into the shoulders of the artificial body at
once, at the same time pushing the neck-wire and body into position.
This can be learned by practice. Proceed as before, but support the
wings while setting on either side by long wire clamps. Be sure,
however, that the supporting wire is strong enough to hold the wing in
position without these, and thus when the wings are dry they will be
very strong.
SECTION V.: MOUNTING BIRDS FOR SCREENS, ETC.--Proceed as in specimens
with wings spread, but sometimes the wings should be cut off, sewed on
on opposite sides, so that they may be reversed; that is, the back of
the wing may be toward the breast in cases where it is desired that
the back of the wings and breast should show. It is usual to stretch
the wings up over the head, which emerges between them. The wings had
better be kept in position with strips of pasteboard fastened together
with wire. Sometimes both sides of the specimen show; or, in other
instances, the back is covered with paper, silk, velvet, or other
material.
SECTION VI.: MOUNTING DRIED SKINS.--Soften as directed in making over
dried skins, observing the caution given under that section, and have
the skin very pliable. The cavities of the eyes may be filled from the
mouth or from the inside of the skin. If the skin be too tender to
turn, rasp it down by working through the orifice. Mount as directed
in fresh specimens, but dried skins almost always require to be bound
with winding cotton in order to keep the feathers in place. They also
require rather more harder filling with cotton. This should be wrapped
around the bird in as continuous a string as possible until all the
feathers lie smoothly. They may be arranged under the bindings with
small tweezers. Avoid binding too closely or too tight, and above
all things bind evenly, that is, do not make depressions nor allow
elevations to appear, for, as a rule, these will always remain after
the bindings have been removed. Small birds should be allowed to stand
at least a week in a dry place before the bindings are removed. Birds
mounted from skins dry more quickly than from fresh specimens. Large
birds should stand from two weeks to a month, especially if the wings
be spread. To remove the binding threads, cut down the back, thus
taking it all off at once.
SECTION VII.: PRICES FOR MOUNTING BIRDS.--For the convenience of
amateurs, who do not always know what price to put on good work, we
give our price list for mounting specimens on ornamental stands. Size
from humming-bird to robin, one dollar and twenty five cents; robin to
wild pigeon, one dollar and fifty cents; wild pigeon to grouse, two
dollars; grouse, ducks, small owls, two dollars and fifty cents; large
hawks and medium-sized owls, three dollars and fifty cents; loons and
large owls, five dollars; eagles, seven dollars. For birds with spread
wings, add thirty-three and one-third per cent.
SECTION VIII.: PANEL WORK.--GAME PIECES, ETC.--Panel work is made
by using only half of a specimen, the back side being turned in or
removed. The specimen is mounted as usual and fastened to the picture
or other design used as a back ground, by wires emerging from the
side and firmly clenched in the body. Game pieces are made by simply
mounting the specimen, then placing it in an attitude as if it were
hanging dead. Much skill and study is required for work of this nature,
for if carelessly done, it has the effect of a poor painting, but if
well completed both panel and game pieces produce a pleasing effect.
All such work should be usually placed behind glass, as, in fact, is
true with all mounted birds, especially light-plumaged birds, which are
liable to become soiled through exposure to dust. Mounted birds, not
kept in moth-proof cases, should be carefully dusted at least twice a
week to prevent the attacks of moths.
CHAPTER V.
MAKING STANDS.
SECTION I.: PLAIN STANDS.--The best stands for the cabinet are simple
wooden ones, either of pine or other woods, turned by machinery with
a simple cross-piece for perching birds. As a rule, the shaft should
be about as high as the cross-piece is long, but in cases of specimens
with long tails, the shaft should be somewhat higher, while the base
should a little exceed in diameter the length of the perch, and should
be about as thick as the shortest diameter of the other parts.
SECTION II.: ORNAMENTAL STANDS.--Papier-maché used for making
ornamental stands is quite difficult to make, but following is the
receipt: Reduce paper to a perfect pulp by boiling and then rubbing
through a sieve. To every quart of this pulp add a pint of fine
wood-ashes and a half pint of plaster. Heat this mass over the fire,
and to every quart add a quarter of a pound of glue, which has been
thoroughly dissolved in a glue-pot. Mix well until it is of the
consistency of putty, when it is ready for use.
In making a twig for an ordinary perch, fasten a moderately stout wire
in a wooden base; wind it with cotton, larger at the base, tapering
toward the end; bend it in a position and cover with a layer of
papier-maché, then with a comb indicate the ridges in the bark of a
tree, and add knots and excrescences as desired, by moulding small
pieces with the fingers. Set aside to dry for a few days. If the
papier-maché cracks it does not contain a sufficient quantity of glue,
or if it shrinks too much, more ashes or plaster should be added. When
dry paint with water-colors, made by adding dry paint to dissolved
white glue, stirring until the mixture becomes of the consistency of
cream. A quarter of a pound of glue will take up a pound of paint.
Cover the bottom of the stand with this paint, or with some other
color, then sprinkle profusely with smalt or mica sand. When dry, add
artificial leaves to the branches by winding the stems around them.
Trim the bottom of the stand with mosses and grass fastened on with
glue. Stands for cases are made in a similar manner, but it is an
improvement to touch the ground-work here and there with dry paint
of various colors. A piece of looking-glass may be used to imitate
water; and ducks from which the lower portions have been cut away may
be placed on this with a good effect. A very good stand may be made
by simply winding a wire with cotton and painting the cotton. The
cotton can be made into a species of papier-maché by soaking it in
flour-paste. Rock work is made of either papier-maché, cork, blocks
of wood, or pieces of turf painted and sanded, or by pasting stout
paper over pieces of wood, and the whole structure painted and sanded.
If papier-maché be used the effect may be heightened by sticking in
pieces of quartz or other rock. Natural stumps, branches, etc., may
be manufactured into stands or cases to advantage; in short, with the
aid of papier-maché, glue, moss, grasses, smalt, etc., nature may be
imitated in a variety of ways.
PART II.--MAMMALS, REPTILES, ETC.
CHAPTER VI.
COLLECTING MAMMALS.
Mammals are, as a rule, much more difficult to procure than birds,
especially the smaller species. Mice occur in all localities. The
white-footed mice are often found in the deserted nests of squirrels
or of crows in the tree-tops. Jumping-mice are found in the meadows,
under haycocks or in nests deep in the earth during winter, at which
time they are in a dormant condition. Field-mice of several species
occur in the meadows, where they have nests, while the house-mouse and
several species of mice inhabit dwellings. All these little rodents
may be trapped by using a variety of bait, and the same is true of
squirrels, which are, however, quite easy to shoot. The gray, red, and
flying-squirrels live in nests placed in bushes or trees or in holes
in tree-trunks. Shrews and moles burrow in the ground, and they may be
snared by setting fine wire nooses in their holes. Cats often bring in
these little mammals and leave them lying around, as they rarely eat
them. A pit dug in an open field or a barrel set down with the top on
a level with the ground and half filled with water will be the means
of capturing many rare, small mammals which fall into it accidentally.
Mink, weasel, otter, rabbits, skunks, etc., may be trapped or shot. A
variety of bait may be used to decoy animals of this class, and the
contents of the scent-bags of any of these species are good; as well
as fish, birds, or small mammals. Foxes, wolves, etc., which occur
in the wilder sections, may be shot or trapped, and the same is true
of wild-cats, pumas, and other large mammals, in procuring which the
hunter must be guided by circumstances.
CHAPTER VII.
MAKING SKINS OF MAMMALS.
SECTION I.: SKINNING SMALL MAMMALS.--Lay the animal on its back,
make an incision about one-third of the length of the body on the
under side of the body from the vent forward, peel down on either side
until the knee-bones are exposed, then cut the joint and draw out the
leg, at least as far as the heel. Remove the flesh, cover well with
preservative, and turn, then proceed thus with the opposite leg. Pull
down to the tail and draw out the bone by placing a stick on the under
side of it and pressing backward. If the tail bone does not readily
come out, as in musk-rats, wrap the tail in cloth and pound it with
a wooden mallet, and it will then come out without further trouble.
Peel down on either side until the front legs appear, cut off at elbow
joints, and draw these out; remove the flesh, cover with preservative,
and turn. Skin over the head, taking care to cut off the ear next the
skull, so as not to cut through into the exterior surface; pull down
the edges, cut between the lids and eye-sockets down to the lips, cut
between these and the bone, but near the latter, thus removing the
skin entirely from the skull; cover the skin well with preservative,
after removing all fat and surplus bits of flesh. Then turn the skin,
detach the skull from the body, by carefully cutting between the atlas,
the last vertebra joint, and the skull. The skull should be boiled to
remove all the flesh and brain; or, if this cannot readily be done,
and if the mammal be very small, roll it in preservative, and lay it
one side; if the animal be large, cut off all the flesh possible, and
work out the brain through the opening in the base of the skull. It is
always, however, best to remove the flesh by boiling; after which care
should be taken to tie the lower jaw firmly to the upper.
SECTION II.: SKINNING LARGE MAMMALS.--Large mammals should be skinned
by making a cross incision down the entire length of the breast,
between the fore-legs to the vent, then down the under side of each
leg quite to the feet. Remove the skin but leave in two bones and the
joints in each leg. In removing the horns of a deer or other ruminant,
make cross cuts between the horns, and then back down on the neck for
a short distance. The lips of a large mammal should be split open
carefully, and the ears turned out quite to the tip; this can be done
with a little practice. Cover with preservative, well rubbed in, and
dry as quickly as possible without tearing.
SECTION III.: MAKING SKINS OF MAMMALS.--Remove all blood and dirt, by
either washing or by continuous brushing with a stiff brush. Dry off
with preservative: rub it well into the hair. Draw out the bones of the
leg, wrap them well with cotton to the original size of the leg; then
fill out the head to the size and form of life, sewing up the neck, and
fill up to the body to the size of nature with cotton or tow. Sew up
the orifice, then lay the skin, belly down, with the feet laid neatly;
and if the tail is long, lay it over the back.
Mice and other small mammals should not have the bone of the tail
removed, as the skin cannot be filled and turned over the back easily.
Large mammals may be also made up if they are to be used for cabinets
or for skins.
SECTION IV.: MEASURING MAMMALS.--It is quite as easy to measure mammals
as birds. The dimensions to be taken may be seen by the accompanying
filled blank, which is the form I always use.
Arctomys monax.
+-------------------------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| Locality. |Ipswich | " | " |
+-------------------------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| Age. | Adult | " | " |
+-------------------------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| Sex. | M | F | F |
+-------------------------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| Date. | 1868. | | |
| |Aug. 22 | " 20 | " 13 |
+-------------------------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| No. | 58 | 55 | 43 |
+--------------+----------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| | Eye. | 1.50 | 1.57 | 1.32 |
| +----------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| | Ear. | 2.95 | 2.80 | 2.94 |
| +----------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| Nose to | Occiput. | 2.30 | 3.45 | 3.45 |
| +----------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| | Root of Tail. | 13.00 | 15.50 | 15.25 |
| +----------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| |Outstretched Hind Leg.| 15.00 | 20.15 | 19.50 |
+--------------+----------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| | End of Vertebra. | 4.98 | 4.50 | 5.45 |
| Tail to +----------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| | End of Hair. | 6.00 | 6.75 | 7.60 |
+--------------+----------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| | Hind Leg. | 3.10 | 2.80 | 2.95 |
| +----------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| Hand | Length. | 2.10 | 1.85 | 2.05 |
| +----------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| | Width. | .78 | .92 | .70 |
+--------------+----------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| Height of Ear. | .85 | .75 | .65 |
+-------------------------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| Muzzle. | .20 | -- | .15 |
+-------------------------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| Girth. | -- | 14.50 | 9.75 |
+--------------+----------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| | Length. | -- | -- | -- |
| Skull.[*] +----------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| | Width. | -- | -- | -- |
+--------------+----------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
| Remarks. | Light | " |Top of |
| |colored.| " |head black.|
+-------------------------------------+--------+-------+-----------+
* This measurement is taken after the animal is skinned; the width of
skull is measured on the widest part, the length on the longest part.
CHAPTER VIII.
MOUNTING MAMMALS.
SECTION I.: SMALL MAMMALS.--Skin as directed, but the skull should not,
as a rule, be detached unless the animal be large enough to have the
lips split. The eye cavities should also be filled with clay. Cut a
piece of wire of the suitable size to support the head; have it about
twice as long as the head and body of the specimen in hand. Wind up a
turn or two with the pliers small enough to enter the cavity in the
base of the skull, which will have to be enlarged to admit of the ready
removal of the brains. Place the wound portion of the wire in this
cavity, and fill in around it with either plaster of paris, or tamp in
excelsior, tow, or cotton firmly enough to hold the skull perfectly
firm on the wire. Wind up a body of excelsior or grass, as nearly the
form and size of the one removed as possible, taking care that the neck
be of proper shape, and that the surface be very smooth.
This surface may be covered with a thin layer of clay or of
papier-maché, if a very nice smooth surface is required, in case of
short-haired mammals. Cut four wires for the legs and one for the tail.
Run the wire up the front legs, and tie them firmly to the bone with
fine wire, especially at the joints. Now wind each leg with cotton,
hemp, or tow to the size and form of the muscles removed. In order to
get the legs very exact, one may be wound before the muscles of the
other be removed, and measurements may thus be taken. The legs may be
also covered with papier-maché or a thin layer of clay in short-haired
mammals. Now place the body in position, taking care that the wire of
the head goes the entire length of the body, and is firmly clinched.
The wires of the front legs should enter the body at the proper point
on the shoulder. The wires of the hind legs should also enter the body
at the point near the back, where they join the natural body. Run a
wire the entire length of the tail and fasten in the lower end of the
body. See that all wires are firmly clinched, and sew up the orifice.
Bend the legs into as natural a position as possible, and insert the
wires protruding from the soles of the feet into the holes in the stand
or perch; bend the body in position, insert the eyes, arranging the
lids carefully over them, taking care the eye has the proper form in
the corners.
Arrange the eyelids and ears by occasionally moulding them into form
as they dry. Smooth the tail carefully and attend to all the little
details, such as spreading the toes etc., etc., and carefully watch
them from day to day, until the animal becomes perfectly dry.
[Illustration: FIG. 17.]
SECTION II.: LARGE MAMMALS.--In drawing the lines between mammals
mounted as described above and the present method, it may be well to
remark that the one now given is the best in all cases, but requires
rather too much time to be used with very small specimens. Have five
large wires or bolts of a suitable size to support the mammal mounted,
cut to the proper length, and cut a screw on either end for about two
inches (Fig. 17, _a_). Screw a broad flat nut on (Fig. 17, _b_), then
have another nut ready to screw on above the first. Prepare a strip
of board a little shorter than the natural body of the mammal, and in
this bore four holes, two at each end, with one extra between the two,
but a little back of them on the front end. After bending the bolts
so as to form the legs, place the ends in the holes and screw on the
nuts, place the lower ends of the irons in the holes in the stand and
screw on the nuts, thus the beginning of the structure will stand firm.
Fasten the end of the fifth iron firmly in the brain cavity by filling
in with plaster, or wedging in pieces of wood, and screw the lower
end in place. Now wind excelsior on the legs to the proper size and
form; cover it with a thin layer of cotton. Then place on the body in
sections of excelsior of exactly the form and size of life, and cover
with clay. The neck is now to be formed in the same way; of course
to get all the parts accurate, one must have the natural body, which
has been removed, at hand, or should have the correct measurement of
it. The skin, from which the leg bones have been removed quite to the
toe-nails, may be fitted on occasionally to judge the effect. Procure
sheet lead, and, if too thick, beat it out; cut it in the form of the
cartilage removed from the ear. Fasten wire into these pieces of lead
with the ends protruding downward; bore holes in the skull into which
the ends are introduced, thus forming the support, and keeping the ears
in proper position. Supply the muscles of the skull with excelsior and
clay or papier-maché, then adjust the skin firmly and sew up. Fill
the lips and nose with papier-maché or clay, and mould into shape.
The above instructions, if followed, will give a mounted specimen,
but I cannot convey the ideas which must teach the student the exact
poise, the swell of the muscle, the exact shape of the eye which will
give life and beauty to the subject in hand; all these must come from
patience, study, and long practice, for skilful taxidermists do not
spring at once into existence, but require experience and careful
education.
SECTION III.: MOUNTING DRIED SKINS OF MAMMALS.--Skins of mammals must
be soaked in a strong solution of alum water, and when perfectly soft
see that the parts above the lips, eyes, etc., are peeled down quite
thin, and that every portion of the skin is perfectly pliable, then it
should be moistened as described.
SECTION IV.: MOUNTING MAMMALS WITHOUT ANY BONES.--If the skull of a
mammal be desired for a skeleton, a cast may be taken of the entire
head before the flesh is removed, by placing the head in a box
which will contain it and leave a space around it; pour in plaster
of paris to the consistency of cream, until the head is about half
covered--which should be placed on the bottom of the box, lower jaw
down--let the plaster set; now cover the top surface of the plaster
with paint, or oil, or paste paper over it. Then fill up the box with
fresh plaster: after this has set well remove the side of the box
and open the mould where the joint was made with the paint or paper.
Take out the head, and then cut a hole in the mould at the base of
the skull, in which the plaster for the head may be poured. Paint
or oil the inside of the mould everywhere, fit the pieces together,
then tie firmly and pour in the plaster for the mould; then insert
the bolt for the head in the hole, and let the plaster set around it.
Remove the mould by chipping off pieces with a chisel until the paint
surface is exposed. If the head be large and heavy, a large ball of
excelsior, in which the bolt is firmly fastened, may be placed in the
centre, but this must be covered with a thin layer of clay to make it
impervious to plaster. The lips and other naked spaces must be painted
the color of life, with paint mixed with varnish, first filling out the
imperfections with paraffine wax. Casts may be taken of the larger in
wax, making a mould in plaster.
CHAPTER IX.
MOUNTING REPTILES, BATRACHIANS, AND FISHES.
Mounting reptiles, batrachians, and fishes as collected in this
department is scarcely a part of taxidermy. I shall only give general
instructions regarding mounting some species. Snakes may be readily
skinned by cutting a longitudinal insertion about a fourth of the
distance down from the head on the lower side where the body begins
to enlarge, near its greatest diameter; then the skin may be speedily
taken off both ways. When the vent is reached the skin comes away
harder, but in order to make a perfect piece of work it must be skinned
quite to the end of the tail, even if it splits open; the eyes must be
removed from the inside of the head. The skin on the top of the head
cannot be removed in this class of animals, leaving the jaw and skull.
Cover well with preservative, and turn the skin. To mount, two ways
are practised, one with plaster, in which the orifice on the inside
and the vent are sewed up, and the plaster poured into the mouth until
the snake is filled. It is well, however, to place a copper wire the
entire length of the animal to strengthen it; then before the plaster
is set, place the snake in the proper attitude. This kind of work
requires practice, as you must be careful of the attitude in which you
wish to place the animal, as the plaster begins to set quite quickly;
to make it set more slowly, however, mix in a little salt. The mouth
should be filled up with clay or plaster. Care should be taken that
water does not accumulate in any portion of the skin, and it should be
perforated with an awl occasionally to allow the water to escape. The
skin of a snake may be filled with papier-maché by working small pieces
downward; then insert a wire and place into position. The skin requires
some time to dry, and in both cases place the mounted reptile in a dry
place, where it will rapidly dry, as the skin is liable to decay if
kept in a damp place.
SECTION I.: MOUNTING LIZARDS, ALLIGATORS, ETC.--Reptiles of this
description should be skinned like mammals, through a longitudinal
insertion made in the abdomen. The skin from the top of the head cannot
be removed however. In mounting, proceed exactly as in mammals, but as
there is no hair to hide defects, all cotton, excelsior, etc., wound
on the bones must be very smooth. The attitudes of all this class of
animals are apt to be stiff and ungainly even in life; but by putting a
bend or two into the tail, turning the head, or slightly curving the
body, too much rigidness may be avoided.
SECTION II.: MOUNTING TURTLES.--To remove the skin from a turtle, cut
away a square portion of the under shell, using a small saw for this
purpose. Then remove the softer portion through this hole, and draw
out the legs and head as in mammals; but the top of the head cannot be
skinned over. In mounting proceed as nearly as possible as in mammals,
only the legs may be filled with clay or plaster in small specimens.
Care should be taken not to fill the skin too full; but let the
wrinkles show, as seen in life, and imitated as nearly as possible.
The shell of the soft-shelled turtle, like the leather-back, is quite
difficult to keep in good condition--is apt to become distorted in
drying. The only method which has occurred to me is to cover the body,
and exposed under portions, with layers of plaster, which will keep the
shell in position until it is dry, when it may be removed.
SECTION III.: MOUNTING FISHES.--Fishes are quite difficult to skin,
especially those with scales. In flat fishes I remove a portion of
one side, skinning the other; then, in mounting, lay the animal on
its side. Mounting in this case means filling the fish to its natural
life-size with cotton, tow, or other available material. Plaster
or clay will also answer. The fins may be pinned out flat against
pasteboard, or put in place with fine wire.
In skinning larger fishes, or those which have no scales, or scaled
fishes which have cylindrical shaped bodies, open from beneath by
cutting nearly the whole length of the body. The skin from some fishes
comes off easily, while in others it is more difficult to remove. In
mounting large fishes use a hard core to the body, made of either wire
or wood. The fins should be wired from the inside; care should be taken
that the skin lies smoothly over the surface beneath, as it shows
considerably in drying, and all imperfections around it.
In preserving the skins of all reptiles and fishes the dermal will be
found excellent, especially in removing the oil from the skins, etc.
Cover well with the preservative, and nothing more will be necessary.
Skins of this class of animals may be kept for future mounting by
simply coating with the preservative, and kept turned wrong side out
without filling. When they are to be mounted throw them into water, in
which a small quantity of dermal has been dissolved. When they are soft
turn and mount as in fresh skins.
INDEX.
A.
Alaudidæ, 14
Alcidæ, 26
Alcidinidæ, 15
Alligators, 98
American warblers, 14
Ammunition for repeating guns, 10
Ampelidæ, 15
Anatidæ, 24
Aramidæ, 23
Ardeidæ, 23
Arsenic a dangerous poison, 49
Ascertaining the sex of birds, 43
Auks, 26
Avocets, 22
B.
Batrachians, 97
Basket for collecting birds, 29
Bird lime, 6
Birds, 1
Box-trap, 1
Blackbirds, 16
Breech-loading guns, 8
Burrowing owl, Newburyport, Mass, 27
C.
Cabinets, 59
Caprimulgidæ, 17
Care of skins, 59
Care of specimens, 28
Catching wounded birds, 31
Cathartidæ, 21
Charadridæ, 22
Chamæidæ, 13
Cinclidæ, 13
Clap-net, 2
Cypselidæ, 18
Collecting birds, 1
Collecting mammals, 84
Collectors, 27
Columbidæ, 21
Colymbidæ, 26
Coots, 24
Cormorant, 25
Corvidæ, 17
Coturniculus, 16
Courlans, 23
Cranes, 23
Crested birds--mounting, 76
Crows, 17
Cuckoos, 19
Cuculidæ, 19
Cuts of the skull, 37
Cutting-pliers, 64
D.
Darters, 25
Dermal preservative, 45
Dried skins, mounting, 78
Drying forms, 51
Ducks, 24
Ducks' skins, 57
Dusting birds, 80
E.
Eagle as decoy, 6
Eagles, 20
Ever-ready bird-trap, 3
Exceptions to the usual method of skinning, 39
F.
Falconidæ, 20
Falcons, 20
Finches, 16
Fishes, 97
Form for measurements of mammals, 89
Flycatchers, 17
Frigate birds, 25
Fringillidæ, 16
G.
Gallinules, 24
Gannets, 24
Game pieces, 79
Geese, 24
Goatsuckers, 17
Graculidæ, 75
Grebes, 26
Grosbeaks, 16
Grouse, 21
Gruidæ, 23
Gulls, 26
H.
Hæmatopodidæ, 22
Hawk as decoy, 5
Hawks, 20
Herons, 23
Herons' skins, 24
Hirundinidæ, 15
Humming birds, 18
I.
Ibis, 23
Ibis' skins, 56
Icteridæ, 16
Instruments for mounting, 64
J.
Jays, 17
K.
Killing wounded birds, 30
Kingfishers, 19
L.
Labelling specimens, 58
Label, sample, 58
Laniidæ, 15
Large birds, mounting, 76
Large mammals, mounting, 92
Large mammals' skins, 88
Laridæ, 26
Lizards, 98
Loading shells, 8
Loons, 26
M.
Making over old skins, 61
Making skins, 49
Making skins of long-necked birds, 55
Making skins of mammals, 86
Making skins of small birds, 50
Making stands, 84
Mammals, 84
Maynard's dermal preservative, 49
Measurements of birds recorded, 62
Measuring birds, 58
Measuring mammals, 88
Meleagridæ, 21
Motacilidæ, 14
Mounting birds, 64
Mounting dried skins, birds, 78
Mounting dried skins, mammals, 94
Mounting fishes, 99
Mounting fresh specimens, birds, 64
Mounting fresh specimens, mammals, 90
Mounting lizards, alligators, etc., 98
Mounting mammals, 88
Mounting mammals without any bones, 95
Mounting with wings spread, 76
Mounting reptiles, batrachians, and fishes, 97
Mounting screens, 76
Mounting turtles, 99
N.
Naturalists' guide, 44
Nuthatches, 13
O.
Old skins, making over, 61
Other methods of preparing skins, 47
Ordinary method of skinning birds, 43
Orioles, 16
Ouzels, 13
Owl as decoy, 5
Owls, 20
Oyster-catchers, 22
P.
Panel work, 70
Papier-maché, 82
Paridæ, 13
Parrots, 21
Part I., 1
Part II., 84
Pelecanidæ, 24
Pelicans, 24
Petrels, 26
Phætonidæ, 25
Phalaropodidæ, 22
Phalarops, 22
Phoenicopteridæ, 24
Picidæ, 19
Plain stands, 81
Pliers, 64
Pigeons, 22
Plovers, 22
Plotidæ, 25
Plugging mouths of birds, 33
Podicipidæ, 26
Preservative, 45
Preserving skins, 44
Prices for mounting birds, 79
Procellaridæ, 26
Procuring birds, 11
Psittacidæ, 19
Puffins, 26
Q.
Quail, 21
R.
Rails, 24
Rallidæ, 24
Recurvirostridæ, 22
Repeating collecting gun, 9
S.
Sample label for birds, 58
Saxicolidæ, 12
Screens, 77
Sex of birds, 43
Shooting birds, 7
Shot for birds, 11
Sieve trap, 2
Sittidæ, 13
Skinning birds, 33
Skinning-knife, 33
Skinning large mammals, 87
Skinning small mammals, 86
Skins of birds, 54
Skins of hawks, 57
Skins of herons, ibises, etc., 56
Skins of long-necked birds, 55
Skins of owls, 57
Skins of small birds, 52
Skins of vultures, 57
Small mammals, 88
Snipe, 23
Scolopacidæ, 23
Sparrows, 16
Spoonbills, 23
Steel traps, 4
Stilts, 23
Stone-chats, 12
Strigidæ, 22
Sulidæ, 24
Swallows, 15
Swifts, 18
Sylvidæ, 13
Sylvicolidæ, 14
T.
Tachypetidæ, 25
Tanagers, 15
Tanagridæ, 15
Tantalidæ, 23
Terns, 26
Tetraonidæ, 21
Thrushes, 12
Titmice, 13
Trapping birds, 1
Trochilidæ, 18
Troglodytidæ, 13
Tropic birds, 25
True larks, 14
True warblers, 13
Turdidæ, 12
Turnstones, 22
Tweezers, 50
Tyrannidæ, 17
V.
Vireonidæ, 15
Vireos, 15
Vultures, 21
W.
Wagtails, 14
Warblers, American, 14
Warblers, true, 13
Waxwings, 15
Wings spread, mounting, 76
Woodpeckers, 18
Wrens, 13
Wrentits, 13
C. J. MAYNARD & CO.,
No. 9 Pemberton Square,
Boston, Mass.
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Transcriber's Note
Minor typographical errors have been corrected.
The astronomical symbols for Mars and Venus on page 58 are represented
in this text version by [M] and [V] respectively.
End of Project Gutenberg's Manual of Taxidermy, by Charles Johnson Maynard