Still feeling his great interest in mining to an extent that makes one
wonder that he did not make that pursuit the work of his life to the
same extent as he made yachting the pleasure, Henty now made his way to
Idria to make a careful examination of the quicksilver mines, the
property of the Austrian government. The journey was undertaken partly
from its being likely to form an interesting letter, but still more
probably from a desire to foster his own inclinations. And no wonder!
For it is not every man who could write in perfect sincerity, "My
experience of mines is very extensive," and then go on to talk like a
past master of mining in general, not in support of this assertion, but
in proof of his general knowledge.
Reaching the quicksilver mines, which are, as is probably known, very
few and far between upon the face of the earth, he gives a thorough
description of the place. The workmen, he tells us, number some six
hundred, the buildings connected with the mine are good and well kept,
the posts and doors painted the familiar black and yellow of Austria,
while the imperial arms, surmounted by the two crossed hammers, are
fixed to the various offices.
In old works accounts are given about condemnation to the quicksilver
mines and the convict life of the unfortunates, but Henty's account of
the place seems to prove everything to be very businesslike and
matter-of-fact, and the old descriptions that blackened the
administration would appear to have been extremely highly coloured. The
government has erected a theatre for the use of the workmen, and has in
other ways laid itself out to study their comforts in a manner for which
its habitual detractors would hardly have given it credit.
The pay of the miners is about eightpence a day, apparently a very small
sum, but which is above the average gain in a country where the
necessaries of life are extremely cheap. When they are ill, and this is
not infrequently the case, for the fumes of mercury are extremely
deleterious, they receive three-quarter pay, together with medicine and
medical attendance, while they are provided for in old age.
After this brief socio-political statement, the businesslike miner and
student of geology speaks of the formation of the country where the
mines are situated. This is an oolite limestone, that is to say, the
cream-coloured soft building stone so familiar in building, which
hardens in time, and is generally dubbed Bath-stone.
He was rather surprised that a quicksilver mine should be here, and he
made a careful examination of the surface of the neighbourhood before
descending, but could discover no signs of the existence of a mineral
vein, and so felt at a loss to imagine what induced the original
investigators to set to work at that particular spot.
Here is his version of the old story which credits the discovery of
quicksilver as being due to a barrel-maker who, after making a tub,
placed it under a dropping spring to see if it would hold water. When
he came to look at it again, he found it contained what he took to be a
certain amount of glistening water; but on attempting to move the tub,
he discovered it to be so heavy that he could not lift it, the supposed
water being the enormously heavy liquid, quicksilver.
Henty also relates that a spring that arose in Idria had been observed
to deposit in the hollows of the stone small quantities of quicksilver.
This came to the notice of a merchant from Trieste, who happened to be
stopping in the neighbourhood. Being a business man whose head was
screwed on the right way, he came to the conclusion that this
quicksilver must issue from the rock in company with water, and that if
he sank to a sufficient depth, the source from which the spring drew the
mercury would be discovered. Without any delay he obtained a grant from
government, began to sink, and carried on quicksilver-mining for some
years with success. But it soon became evident to him that the primary
source of the fluent metal was much deeper down, and to reach it much
larger capital was required than he could command; so, still acting as
the business man, he sold his works to the government, no doubt at an
excellent profit, and by the government they have been carried on ever
since. They are now the richest and most extensive of any in Europe,
with the exception only of those at Almaden, in Spain.
Henty's stay in Idria was only short; but being furnished with a guide,
and having put on the suit of miner's clothes provided for visitors, he
commenced his descent. This was made by means of a number of inclined
shafts of admirable masonry, worked in a perfect oval, and about seven
feet in height. These can be best conceived by imagining a perfectly
dry London sewer being placed nearly on end. In these shafts small
stone steps were formed, by which the descent was made without fatigue
or difficulty. He considered that these shafts were superior, both in
arrangement and workmanship, to anything he had ever seen in his great
experience.
On descending he noticed that the mine was worked, to speak technically,
in five levels, and that in some places the quicksilver was in the
familiar glistening globules in a soft and partially decomposed state.
But the greater portion occurred in the aforesaid limestone itself, and
even where it was present in the enormous proportion of eighty per cent
it was not visible; but the ore resembled very rich brown haematite
ironstone. In describing his visit, Henty goes on to write about the
warmth of the atmosphere and the close mineral odour, and to relate how,
in consequence of the deleterious mercurial fumes, the miners are unable
to work in the richest parts for more than two hours at a time.
He continues, then, quite as a man accustomed to inspecting mines,
declaring that the timbering, i.e. the supports, of the levels,
ventilation, and other arrangements of the mine are good. But he never
saw labour so completely thrown away in any undertaking of the kind he
ever visited; for the miners were constantly employed upon poor
barren-looking stuff, which the most unpractised mining man--including,
of course, himself--might have seen would never lead to anything. Had
their work taken the shape of small galleries for exploration, it might
have been explicable; but the men were almost all engaged in greatly
widening previously-made passages where nothing whatever had been found,
nor was likely to be. He accounts for this, like a practical man, by
supposing that, as a miner could only work for a few hours a week upon
the rich spots, and as the management are obliged to keep a large
succession of men for working continuously, they put the men to work in
the barren places purely to keep them employed.
Satisfied with his inspection, he at last made the ascent, coming up a
nearly perpendicular shaft, worked by water-power, in the large and
dirty basket in which the ore is lifted to the surface. He then
proceeded to the smelting-houses, where the quicksilver is extracted
from the ore. These were about a mile from the town; but the furnaces
were not at work at that time of year--October--on account of the fumes
thrown off being so extremely deleterious to vegetation and to the
cattle which fed upon it, as in grazing they, of course, took up a
certain amount of the mercury deposited upon the herbage.
The smelting, or, as it might more properly be called, the distilling,
of the mercury is only carried on in winter, when the fumes that escape
from the furnaces fall upon the surface of the snow, which in that
mountainous country covers the earth, and are washed away when the thaw
comes in the spring. The poorer ores are crushed under stamps, and the
mineral is separated by dressing and shaking tables. The richer stuff
is at once carried to the furnaces, where it is roasted, and the
mercurial fumes which are evolved by this process are collected in
adjoining chambers. Henty goes on, like a mining expert, to criticise
the imperfect way in which the processes are carried out, adjudging that
under better management the fumes which spread over the surrounding
country would be far less noxious.
The total amount of quicksilver produced by this one mine annually is
about two thousand five hundred pounds, and this is exported in iron
bottles for the use of the gold and silver mines of Mexico, Peru, and
Brazil.
Surprise was expressed at the commencement of this chapter that
literature had not lost her able writer for boys by his being absorbed
by the mining profession. His remarks concerning miners gained from his
own observation pretty well justify this comment, for, moralising upon
the people under observation at the quicksilver mines of Idria, he says
that among no class of the population of various countries is there so
great a resemblance as between miners. However the peasantry in general
may attire themselves, the miner wears a universal garb. He shaves
closely, so that the dust and dirt, which his occupation involves, may
be the more readily removed when he returns to the upper air; and if the
workers in the lead-mines of the island of Sardinia (where he had been,
to study them), the Slav from Illyria, the Frenchman, the Belgian, the
Cornish, Welsh and Newcastle miner, with all of whom he had made
acquaintance, were massed together, the shrewdest observer would be
puzzled to separate the men belonging to the different nationalities.
They wear the same coarse flannel attire; they have the same
loosely-hung limbs, the same muscular development about the shoulders,
and the same weakness of leg; their faces are uniformly pale and sallow
from working in places where daylight never penetrates; they are hard
drinkers, strong in their likes and dislikes, very independent, and
great sticklers for their rights.
Certainly, he continues, these Idrian miners are more fortunate in many
respects than their fellows, for their houses are singularly large,
clean, and commodious. Their government lays a considerable extra tax
upon wine, because its use is very hurtful to the men engaged in the
mercury works, but its price does not prevent the miners from partaking
of it freely.
Henty slept in Idria but one night, and he found it very late before the
little town settled into tranquillity. Every time he closed his eyes
and endeavoured to go to sleep, a burst of discordant singing from
parties returning from wine-shops reminded him unpleasantly that miners
will be miners all the world over.
The next morning he left for Italy, and he amusingly describes his
experiences of travel in a primitive conveyance hung very low, without
any springs whatever. This should have been drawn by a pair of horses,
but was actually only drawn by a single beast trotting upon one side of
the pole. The shaking upon the rough road traversed was something
terrible, and in the course of a six hours' journey he was rather glad
of a rest of half an hour and a relief from the shaking.
As the village inns were all alike, he describes one as a sample, in
which he partook of some very weak, warm stuff which they called broth.
The room set apart for the meal was low and whitewashed, crossed by the
rough beams which supported the room above. In one corner was an
immense stove, five feet high and six feet square, covered with
green-glazed earthenware tiles. A seat ran round this, and upon the top
a layer of maize was spread out to dry. In another corner was a small
cupboard. But even there art was represented by roughly-coloured prints
dealing with the Prodigal Son, in the attire of a Venetian senator of
the Middle Ages. There was a crucifix with a small lamp upon it, a
great clock like those seen in English country cottages, with a
preternaturally loud tick, and there was a strange-looking table, which
he found upon examination was a paste-board and flour-bin combined.
Three puppies and two kittens scampered and played about upon the floor,
which was of stone, but beautifully clean.
Reader, do you like struddle? Most probably you are quite ignorant of
what the question means. Henty was in precisely the same mental
condition when, after eating his soup, his hostess asked him if he would
like some struddle.
Henty assented, without having the slightest idea of what struddle might
be, and the hostess brought in a plate of what resembled boiled
three-corner puffs; but, though sweet, they were not triangular jam
tarts, for the contents were principally onions and parsley, and quite
uneatable.