_Stay in England, and return to Ghent._
Among the gentlemen who shortly after my arrival in Liverpool favoured
me with a visit, was the American consul, Mr. Maury. He is a native of
Virginia, about eighty years of age, and a school-mate of President
Jefferson. He is the American consul who, after the treaty of
Versailles, came to England with credentials signed by WASHINGTON.
The gloomy and smoky appearance of the city of Liverpool, as well as its
many narrow and partly angular streets, had no pleasant effect upon me.
However, I found the pavements much better than in America. I visited
several splendid porcelain shops, which article is made in the vicinity
and in Staffordshire. The chinaware is very fine, the painting and
gilding good, and this ware also is very durable. In these stores one
likewise finds Wedgewood white and blue crockery, and the so called
stone-china, representing landscapes and all kinds of figures, and in
solidity much resembling the porcelain of Tournay.
I afterwards visited the House of Correction, which was built seven
years ago, and is a mile and a half distant from the city. This
institution is the central prison of Lancastershire, and contains
prisoners whose time of imprisonment does not exceed three years. Those
who have to undergo a more severe punishment, are generally transported
to New South Wales. I had a written permission from a magistrate to
visit the establishment, through which I was accompanied by the
governor; the building stands on a rising ground, enjoys a free
circulation of air, and can accommodate eight hundred prisoners; at this
period they amounted to six hundred and fifty.
The prisoners are divided into twenty-one classes, thirteen for the men
and eight for the women, according to the extent of their crimes and
ages. Those who are prisoners for the first time are dressed in gray and
yellow garments; those incarcerated for the second time, in blue and
red; and those requiring particular attention are dressed in complete
suits of blue or gray. The treatment observed towards women and children
is pretty much the same, for even the children are divided into
different classes, and entirely separated from the grown persons.
For food the prisoners have daily either meat or fish. On Sunday there
is service in the chapel, but for each sex separately, and every morning
there are prayers. The prisoners were formerly principally employed in
spinning or weaving cotton; but as for some months this article had much
fallen in value, the working of the prisoners, except those engaged on
the tread-mill, had in some measure ceased, and the greater portion of
them were idle.
Whipping is expressly forbidden in the prison. The most severe
punishment which the governor is allowed to inflict, is three days
solitary confinement. Should it become necessary to exercise a greater
punishment, application must be made to a committee of magistrates, who
meet weekly in the prison, and the punishment is left to their option.
A court-house, built of sandstone, adjoins the prison. The grand entry
is ornamented with a portico of six Ionic columns: it communicates with
the prison by a small back-door, through which the prisoners are
conducted unperceived into court. It is two stories high, has large
rooms, and is handsomely laid out. The hall for the public sessions is
extremely elegant, and is the whole height of the building. The
antechambers are destined for the jury, witnesses and judges, to meet in
private, and for the different offices attached to the court. One of
them is a dressing-room for the judges and lawyers; there are several
shelves in it for their wigs and cloaks; for in the English courts the
judges and lawyers must in open court be dressed in powdered wigs.
After I had inspected this interesting prison, we went to visit the
institution for the blind, of which I had heard such a high character.
Unfortunately, the hour for the admission of strangers had passed, and
notwithstanding all our intreaties, we were denied admission by a
handsome girl, who opened the door.
We next visited a small museum, which was pretty much on the plan of
those in America, and like most of these establishments, was furnished
with a hand-organ, on which they played at certain hours, to induce
people to enter. This museum possesses rare stuffed animals, viz.
a large ant-eater, and a quantity of foreign lizards and snakes; many
living ones of the same kind I had seen in America; they are attached in
a very natural manner to moss-covered rocks. It has likewise a
collection of foreign birds and shells; garments and weapons of the
savages of America, and the Southern Islands; a boa constrictor coiled
round and choking a young antelope, &c. A Miss Brown, a young person,
born without arms, was to be seen working with her feet in the most
ingenious style. She eats not only with her feet, but likewise pours out
a glass of wine, and carries it to her mouth without spilling a drop;
she mends a pen, and writes very distinctly with her right foot; she
threads a needle, sews, &c.
On the 16th of July, at eight o’clock in the morning, I departed from
Liverpool in the stage for Birmingham, with the intention of soon
proceeding to the continent. The English stages are better closed, and
run easier than the American, but I prefer the latter, because their
seats are more comfortable. The distance from Liverpool to Birmingham is
one hundred and one miles; the turnpike is most excellent, and the road
even the whole way. On one side of the turnpike, along the whole length
of the road, there is a side-walk for pedestrians; it has a pebbly
surface, and is enclosed on both sides with sandstone, to heighten the
pavement. Wherever this side-walk is not paved, it is at least smoothed
and lined with small sods; at equal distances two posts are driven into
the ground, to prevent the passage of horsemen and wheelbarrows.
I admired the peculiar care with which the stones destined for the
repairs of the highway, are broken into the smallest pieces. With such
stones it is easy to make a good road, and the Americans and other
nations might well take example from the British, whenever they wish to
have a good road, or to repair one. The number of villages that lay upon
our route had a very handsome appearance. The dwellings of the farmers
are small, but they have a very neat appearance, owing to the
straw-thatched roofs, variegated with small windows, the bowers in front
of the doors, and the garlands of roses and ivy, which twine gracefully
along the walls; the little flower-gardens by the road side, also
enhance the charms of these cottages. On the other hand, the towns have
narrow streets, and a gloomy, smoky look.
Soldiers are garrisoned in the towns as far as Wolverhampton. This
arrangement had been made for some months past, because several large
manufactories in this neighbourhood had stopped working, and the
famishing artizans had adopted forcible measures in order to procure
bread. The country is very well cultivated; mostly with wheat and
barley. The wheat appeared already nearly ripe; the straw was however
very small, owing to the want of rain. The green and blooming hedges
that ran along the fields had a delightful aspect. In comparing the
beautiful and large trees of America, with those of this country, I was
astonished at the contrast between the two, the latter consisting of low
and miserable woodland. However, in the parks and large gardens, several
of which I saw, there are many fine trees; but it is on account of these
many parks of the nobility, that a great quantity of land remains
uncultivated, which, in a country so populous as England, becomes a
matter of the highest importance.
Between Newcastle and Stone we passed through a village called Trentham,
where the Marquis of Stafford possesses a large castle, situated in an
extensive park; to the left of the road stand large square masses of
stone, said to be the burial place of the Stafford family. Near the town
of Stafford, which is the capital of Staffordshire, the old castle of
Stafford is erected on a high hill. Two of its towers are still
remaining, several rooms of which are fitted up for a sporting
rendezvous. In former times it is said to have been a very important
fortress, but was destroyed during the protectorate of Cromwell.
Staffordshire is celebrated for its manufactures of earthenware; there
are two very respectable establishments of this kind at
Newcastle-under-Lyne, the most excellent of which is that of Wedgewood
in Etruria, situated two miles from the aforesaid town. We passed
several cotton manufactories, and a silk factory near Congleton, a town
on the other side of Knutsford, containing six thousand souls.
We crossed at several times to-day two excellent canals, one belonging
to the Sankey Navigation Company, and the other to the Duke of
Bridgewater. We drove twice under this canal. In Stafford I observed a
very decent looking court-house, and upon a hill the central prison of
Staffordshire. I also remarked to-day several coal-mines; particularly
at the last post between Wolverhampton and Birmingham they are very
numerous. For a considerable distance no sign of cultivation was to be
seen; nothing was to be seen but coal and iron-works, with
steam-machines and colossal chimneys in the form of obelisks, and high
flaming furnaces. This district had the appearance of a conflagrated
city, several of whose houses were still burning; the sulphurous smell
that pervaded the atmosphere, almost took the breath away. As we
approached Birmingham, these works began to disappear; we passed through
pleasant villages interspersed with charming blooming gardens, and every
thing foretold that we were approaching a large and wealthy city. This
impression was strengthened on our seeing the citizens returning from
the country in their holy-day suits. It was about nine o’clock in the
evening, when we reached Birmingham. I took up my quarters in the Royal
Hotel, an excellent tavern, where I resided three years previous. In a
public advertisement, stating the advantages connected with this
establishment, travellers are notified that it is located in the
pleasantest part of the town, whereas the finest prospect it presents,
opens upon a burial ground, which also answers as a promenade for the
inhabitants, and as a playground for children.
In Birmingham three years past, I spent several days; I wished, however,
to see several things once more, and therefore sojourned a few days in
this city. I went to Mr. Thomason’s show-room, where every thing,
manufactured in Birmingham, is to be seen. Several rooms contain
uncommonly tasteful plated ware, others trinkets, medals, curiosities,
steel ware, guns, works in papier maché, crystals, &c. The well known
Warwick castle Vase, I again saw of multifarious dimensions; firstly,
of the full size in bronze, for which Mr. Thomason had expressly built a
small house adjoining his own; then another of smaller dimensions,
likewise of bronze, with the marks and ornaments in silver, or
silver-gilt, which must make a very elegant appearance at table. I here
likewise saw imitations of the greatest precious stones known, in their
exact form, size and colour. This collection, in a very neat box, costs
twenty-five guineas.
Mr. Thomason has connected himself with an artist, who, during his
residence of many years in Russia, had acquired at Tula the secret of
steel working, and was beginning to imitate it here. In his first essay
he tried to inlay a silver waiter with steel; in this attempt, however,
he did not succeed properly. Should it succeed, the introduction of this
invention into England, would be of great importance, as this art being
now confined to Russia, is there considered as a very important secret.
Mr. Thomason had likewise the politeness to conduct me to an armory;
here an immense quantity of various sword-blades was shown me, and also
the mode of trying them; they are strained in a machine, by which they
are bent to a certain degree, and then unbent; they are then examined,
to see if they are not curved, then a block of steel is struck with the
flat of the blade, and a wooden one cut with the edge; and if it is
proof to this, it is considered sound, and stamped. At this moment,
owing to the existence of profound peace, there was little work done in
this manufactory, consequently I could not see the sharpening and
polishing of the blades, which takes place in a particular workhouse.
In lieu thereof I saw in it the silvering of polished brass wire. This,
first of all consists of a piece half an inch thick, which receives a
very thin silver covering; it is heated in an oven, seized with tongs,
and drawn through different holes, which are cut in pieces of steel,
gradually diminishing in size, until they attain the size of a common
piece of wire. By this means the wire may be drawn out to the thinness
of a hair, and it is remarkable, that it still retains the silver. The
tongs are pulled by a patent chain, the links of which are double
folded, and for the invention of which, the owner of this establishment
has obtained a patent from government. I also visited another show-room,
which has only been two years fitted up; it is very splendidly arranged;
it has a larger space than Mr. Thomason’s, but is not so richly and well
provided.
In the evening I went to the theatre; they exhibited the disagreeable
tragedy of Jane Shore, after which we had a tolerable pantomime, called
the Village Festival, and it closed with an uninteresting melo-drama,
the Woodman’s Hut. In the first piece Miss Lacy, from Covent-garden,
personified the character of Jane Shore most capitally, and was well
supported by several of the other actors; the piece, however, is
abominable in itself, and I can imagine nothing more disgusting than to
behold an unfortunate being, struggling on the stage in the arms of
death. In this country, however, it is a favourite piece. They
endeavoured to produce it on the French boards, but it would not take at
all. The theatre is well fitted up: it has a pit, two rows of boxes, and
a gallery, which can accommodate a great many spectators; on this
occasion it was likewise greatly crowded by a noisy mob. I found in the
boxes and pit fewer spectators than I expected, the decorations are well
painted, and the interior lighted with gas. The provincial theatres
receive generally but little encouragement, and their receipts only
increase in summer, when the large London theatres of Covent-garden and
Drury-lane are closed, and the celebrated actors there engaged, make a
trip to the provinces.
On the 18th of July, at eight o’clock in the morning, I left Birmingham
in a post-chaise and proceeded by a circuitous route to Oxford. I sent
on my baggage by the direct course in the stage. I went out of my way
for the purpose of visiting the ruins of Kenilworth and Warwick castles.
The distance from Birmingham to Oxford by this road is seventy-one
miles, the turnpike at times hilly, but invariably good. Our route lay
through Knowles, a very charming country town. Kenilworth, on the
contrary, is a small ill-looking place, but inclosing splendid ruins of
the old castle, which have become universally notorious by the romance
of Kenilworth. Excepting the ruins of Paulinzelle, those of Kenilworth
are the most beautiful I ever beheld. The castle was built at three
different periods. The most ancient northern part erroneously called
Cæsar’s tower, was erected about the year 1120, by Geoffroy de Clinton,
and was a fortress during the early inland strifes between the barons,
the scene of many important events. Towards the close of the fourteenth
century, it fell into the possession of John of Gaunt, who added to it
the western and largest wing, called after him Lancaster buildings. At a
later period Queen Elizabeth bestowed it upon her favourite, the Earl of
Leicester, who, in 1571, erected the southern portion, called Leicester
buildings; he also built between two towers a tilting yard for
tournaments, and erected likewise, the large portico, which now is
occupied as a dwelling. In this palace he entertained his queen with a
splendid feast, that lasted seventeen days, and which is described in a
particular book. After the earl’s death, the castle with its extensive
domains, escheated to the crown. Cromwell partitioned it among several
of his officers, who drained the ditch, that circumscribed the greater
portion of the castle walls, and likewise destroyed the park, and
ultimately the castle, to sell the timber. Nothing but the tower,
containing the portico, remains standing, because one of the officers
occupied two rooms over the gateway, he turned this building into a
dwelling place. This is still to be seen, and is now inhabited by Lord
Clarendon’s agent, whose forefathers received a grant of this castle
from Charles II.
Through this building you enter the grounds belonging to the castle,
after passing through a file of beggarly children, who offer you a
description of the ruins for eighteen pence. Near the old house, called
Gateway, there is a sign saying that the chimney-piece may be seen for
sixpence. A tidy girl receives this stipend with a smart courtsey, and
opens the door leading into an old room; it is one of the two which have
been made out of the gateway. The chimney-piece was probably transported
from the castle during the sacking of it. It is of alabaster, and bears
the inscription, “_Droit et Loyal_,” and on each side the initial
letters R. L., Robert Leicester; beneath it is Leicester’s coat of arms,
surrounded by the order of the garter; below is inscribed the year 1571,
and the motto, _Vivit post funera virtus_. Over the chimney-piece there
is a square frame, containing the initial letters E. R., Elizabeth
Regina; in the centre of it are holes, which lead one to believe that
weapons were formerly fastened in them.
The garden lies to the right of this building. Close thereto is the
dungeon, which stands on rising ground between the castle and the moat,
which is now transformed into meadow-ground, and it runs north, west,
and south, round the castle to the tilting ground. The bank of the moat
was lined by a wall, crowned with several towers, one of which was
called the Swan-tower. On the left hand one perceives a large yard, in
the rear of which are the out-houses, and behind them lie the fortified
walls with several towers. On ascending to the right of the castle, you
arrive at the grand court, which is now only encompassed on three sides
by ruins of edifices; of the buildings that were situated on the fourth
side, no trace is remaining. The first ruin that you discover on the
right is that called Cæsar’s tower; of this building, which was
quadrangular, three sides are still standing; the walls are on an
average sixteen feet thick. Here a flight of stairs lead to a door, now
built up, which opened to the garden. Here is the only fountain which
has as yet been discovered among the ruins. It is, like the whole
castle, built of red sandstone, and cut, farther down, out of the hard
rock; it is seventy feet deep, but is gradually filling up by the many
stones cast into it. The kitchen adjoins Cæsar’s tower, and must have
been a considerably large building, but there are only a few remains of
it. The place where the furnaces and large kettles stood is still
perceptible.
Adjoining the kitchen is the strong tower, forming the north-west
corner; it is here that the Lancaster buildings commence. In this tower,
which is also supported by uncommonly strong walls, are several
tolerably well preserved winding stairs, by means of which one can
ascend the walls to enjoy a fine and delightful prospect. Here are
likewise cellars, still in good condition. The corners of this tower
lead to small outer-towers provided with port-holes, which must have
served for the defence of the place. Left of this building you reach the
great hall. You observe in the basement story the servant’s hall,
vaulted and furnished with central columns, which support the broken
arches to the right and left. Over those arches is still to be seen
where the flooring of the grand banquet-hall stood. The windows of this
hall are very high, in a Gothic style, with columns in their centre. In
the recesses of the windows are still several stone benches, and there
are also two chimney-pieces to be seen in this hall. A smaller room is
connected with it, having likewise a fire-place, which served as a
chapel; and there is also a small closet, which the folks here call
Queen Elizabeth’s dressing-room.
The great hall forms the south-west corner of the castle, and the ruins
connected with it, belong to the southern wing. Close to the great hall,
there are two ruins, of which but little remains to be seen, the first
is called the white hall, the other the presence chamber. The so called
privy chamber is next to them, in which a window and fire-place are
still distinguishable; they say, that the chimney-piece, now in the
gate-house, was taken from this place. Here begins the newest part of
the castle, or the Leicester buildings. They consist of a large,
quadrangular tower, four stories high, in which the place for the
staircase, as well as the different stories, may still be clearly
distinguished. And here terminate these uncommonly interesting and
picturesque ruins, to the beauties of which the creeping ivy, which has
grown very thickly over them, adds considerably. Fortunately, Lord
Clarendon has forbidden, that any portion of the ruins should be taken
away, for previous to the prohibition of such an abuse, the peasantry
were in the habit of carrying away stones from the ruins to build their
houses and for repairing their garden-walls.
From Kenilworth I travelled five miles through a lovely country to the
town of Warwick, the capital of Warwickshire, to behold the Earl of
Warwick’s castle, at that place. Two miles from this town, lie the now
much visited and fashionable springs of Leamington, where with the
exception of the company, nothing remarkable is to be seen. Warwick
stands on stony heights, on the banks of the river Avon, contains about
nine thousand inhabitants, and though a very ancient city, has a
tolerably agreeable appearance. The principal church has an ancient and
venerable aspect, as also two gateways, the remains of the old city
walls, now standing in the middle of the streets. The court-house is a
new edifice, and as the town assizes were then holding, several splendid
equipages were drawn up in front of it.
I immediately afterwards proceeded to the castle close to the city. It
is a very old building, the foundation of which, it is said, was laid
before the conquest of England by the Normans; the walls and towers
still standing, which environ the court-yard of the castle, are said to
have been erected at that period. The castle stands upon a rock by the
bank of the Avon, and commands a view of a surprisingly romantic
country. At the foot of this ancient castle, at the water’s edge, are
the castle mills, which on account of their venerable appearance, and
the waterfall, caused by a dam in the river, greatly enhance the beauty
of the scene. Behind the mill are to be seen the ruins of a bridge which
led over the river, and is now overgrown with ivy. Quite in the back
ground, one discovers the new bridge over which the road from Leamington
runs. These groups produce an uncommonly pleasing prospect.
On approaching the castle from the city, you see a gate with a Gothic
tower, which serves as a habitation for the gate-keeper. Hence, after
inscribing your name in a book, you continue on your way to the castle.
This road leads through the park, and is mostly cut in the rock, the
sides of which are very picturesquely overgrown with ivy.
On attaining an open space, the whole castle stands in view; it is
approached over a stone bridge, through a gate furnished with a
portcullis, and then you find yourself in a spacious court-yard, the
castle standing to your left, in front, and to the right the lofty walls
that surround the court-yard, studded with towers. Grated gates lead
underneath the towers, to the park that surrounds the castle. I entered
the castle up a handsome spacious staircase, and there I found the neat
house-keeper, who for money and good words, shows strangers the interior
of the castle.
First you enter the great hall, the walls are lined with carved oak
wood, and ornamented with scutcheons and ancient arms, and with three
real colossal elk-horns, the largest of which was found in Ireland, and
the other two in America. From this hall there is a fine view into a
considerable suite of rooms, and from the windows the charming prospect
of the Avon, and the before-mentioned mills and bridges.
From the hall you proceed into the ante-room; here I admired two
paintings by Van Dyk; one represents a lady as large as life, belonging
to the Brooke family, with her son; the other is the portrait of Queen
Henrietta Maria, the consort of Charles the first. In the same room is
to be seen, the extremely handsome portrait of Queen Johanna of Naples,
by Raphael; also the portrait of the Marquis Spinola, armed cap-à-pied,
a painting of Rubens; the portrait of count Gondomar, the Spanish
ambassador, near the court of James I., a production of Don Diego
Velasquez de Silva; and two very charming landscapes, by Poussin, which
however, require to be retouched. In the same room there is a table
inlaid in Florentine mosaic, two vases of lava, several Etruscan vases
and lances, which are to be seen in almost all the rooms, a marble bust
of the present Lord Warwick, by Nollekens, and a book-case of tortoise
shell inlaid with brass.
Adjoining this chamber is the cedar drawing-room, so called, because the
walls are wainscoted with cedar wood, which, notwithstanding its
antiquity, sends forth a charming odour. There is likewise in this room
a handsome fire-place, and a marble table, inlaid with lava. Among the
paintings are five by Van Dyk, viz. the Countess of Carlisle,
Charles I., the Duke of Alba, the Marquis of Montrose and the landscape
painter, Martin Ryckaerds. Beside these there is a Circe of Guido,
a very beautiful piece, and two paintings of less value, one by Romney,
representing the celebrated E. W. Montague in a Turkish costume, and the
other by Patoun, representing a muse.
Adjoining this hall there is a room, which, owing to the heavy gildings
on its walls, is called the gilt-room. Here are two paintings by Rubens,
the one of Lord Arundel, the collector of the celebrated antiquities at
Oxford, known by the name of the Arundelian marbles, and the other
representing St. Ignatius. This piece was painted by Rubens, for the
Jesuits College at Antwerp, and was transported hither from that city.
There is also a well painted portrait of Prince Rupert, by an unknown
artist, another of the Prince of Orange, by Holbein; the portrait of a
lady, by Sir Peter Lely; several of Vandyk’s productions, one
representing Admiral Russell, and another a Spanish General; by the same
master hand, the portraits of Charles I., Lord Northumberland, Queen
Henrietta Maria, two portraits of the celebrated Lord Stafford, one of
them representing this unfortunate statesman in his earlier, and the
other in his latter years, the portrait of Lord Warwick, a full-size
portrait of Prince Rupert, and another of the Marquis of Huntley. Those
portraits are altogether executed in a masterly manner. The portrait of
a lady, by Sir Peter Lely; two small Murillos, one representing a girl
with a pen, and the other a child, blowing soap-bubbles; moreover,
a portrait of Lord Lindsay of Charles 1st’s time, by Cornelius Janssen,
and a Tintoretto, representing the Italian sage Davila. It it a pity
that several of these pictures hung in the shade, and that in the
usually clouded atmosphere of England, they cannot be properly seen.
In this as well as in the ante-room, were several vessels by Majolica,
ornamented with handsome paintings copied from drawings of Raphael.
You next proceed to the state bed-room, hung with old tapestry,
representing French gardens. The richly ornamented bed is said to have
been fitted up by the order of Queen Ann. It contains a bust of the
Black Prince in full armour by Wildon, and three paintings, a full-size
portrait of the Duchess Margaret of Parma, by Titian, a family portrait
by Sir Peter Lely, and a profile of the unhappy Earl of Essex, done by
Zucchero, an Italian painter, whom political causes had driven from his
native land to England, where he received protection, patronage, and a
friendly reception from Queen Elizabeth.
Next to this room is the small state dressing-room, from the windows of
which there is an extensive and fine prospect. It contains a precious
collection of paintings; one by Paul Veronese; a very grand sketch by
Rubens, of the four evangelists; two old men’s heads by the same master;
two landscapes by Salvator Rosa; four Vandyk’s, consisting of the second
Earl of Bedford; tritons and sea-horses; a study; a sketch of St.
Sebastian, and a bacchanalian scene; two by Gerard Douw, one an
excellent portrait of a Mrs. Digby, abbess of a convent, and the other
an effect of light, representing an old woman eating; two by Teniers,
scenes of witches and the interior of a watch-house, hung with armour;
three Holbeins, the first a portrait of Luther, the second the
unfortunate Ann Boleyn, and the third her sister Catharine Boleyn, aunt
and tutress of Queen Elizabeth, and in the midst of these portraits,
that of Henry VIII. in his childhood. There are two pieces by Steenwyck,
one representing St. Peter in prison, and the other his liberation
therefrom. Portraits of two of Charles the second’s mistresses are
likewise to be seen here, as also a copy of a portrait of Henry IV.
of France, by Patoun.
A small cabinet, called the Compass Window, adjoins the just mentioned
apartment; it takes its name from a painted window. Among the paintings
in this room are a battle piece by Schut, a sea-storm by Vandervelde,
and several invaluable pieces.
From this cabinet you enter the chapel by a gallery which runs in the
rear of the before-mentioned room. I remarked in it a full-length
portrait of Charles I. on horseback, by Vandyk, and a half-length
portrait of Oliver Cromwell, by R. Walker. The chapel is rather small,
contains the arms of the Warwick family, and over the altar Gothic
ornaments, carved in wood.
On returning to the large hall, you reach the dining-room through it. It
is a splendid, large hall, containing an ancient marble table, and three
large portraits of the Prince of Wales, grandfather of the present king,
his consort a princess of Gotha, holding George III. in baby-clothes on
her lap; a Lord Brook, a copy by Patoun, who, as preceptor to Lord
Warwick, was more of an amateur than a painter. These paintings are
devoid of taste, and the best things about them are their heavy gilt and
ornamented frames. Over the portrait of the princess are the arms of
Saxony.
Adjoining the large hall is likewise the breakfast-room. In this room
are the following most excellently executed paintings: Charles 1st’s
children, by Vandyk, and a portrait of a female, by the same artist; two
lions, by Rubens; and a full-length portrait of Admiral Tromp, by
Rembrandt. Three paintings by an unknown master; the unfortunate Mary
Stuart, with her son as a child; a Lord Brooke, and Sir Philip Sydney.
After I had inspected the castle, I passed out through a private gate in
the lofty wall of the castle-yard, and proceeded to the park over a
stone bridge that crosses the dry castle moat. Groves are beautifully
interspersed with bowling greens in this park; a solid pebbled path
takes you round the park in about half an hour. There are several fine
prospects, and the place is well stocked with evergreens, which during
the last winter, I had many opportunities of admiring in a state of
nature. Three years ago, while journeying for the first time through
Great Britain, I could not help admiring in the English parks, the
luxurious abundance of evergreens and their lovely growth; but after
beholding these plants in their native land, growing in their full
vigour, the most splendid English gardens dwindled into insignificance,
when compared with the beauties of nature in America. I observed a
number of fine lofty cedars of Lebanon, which are to be found in most of
the extensive English gardens. In this park there is also a very large
hot-house, the plants raised in which are now elegantly distributed
throughout the garden. In this hot-house I perceived the celebrated
antique vase, the copy of which, in bronze, I had seen at Mr. Thomason’s
in Birmingham. This remarkable antique was found not far from Hadrian’s
Villa in the vicinity of Tivoli. It was first purchased by Sir William
Hamilton, then English ambassador at Naples, who sold it to the late
Lord Warwick. It is of white marble, round in form, and will hold one
hundred and sixty-three gallons. It has two handles of entwined vine
branches, which with their elegant leaves and heavy clusters of grapes,
wind themselves round the upper part of the vase. On the under part is
seen the panther’s skin, and on it several well finished heads of
satyrs, as well as several thyrsus and augur staves. The vase is in a
state of high preservation, and only one satyr’s head is replaced; the
remaining ornaments are not in the least injured.
During my walk through the park, I passed along the bank of the Avon,
which runs at the foot of the rock, on which the castle is built. On a
small black slate, attached to the rock, there is an inscription,
stating that a young man, one of the Bagot family, was drowned there
while bathing. The unfortunate father has erected this little monument
to the memory of his son. On my return to the castle, I ascended one of
the towers, called Gay’s tower, about one hundred and fifty feet high;
this tower is very well preserved, and is provided with fortifications.
In the interior there is a small room, and from the top of the tower
there is a fine and extensive prospect.
On my return to the city, the stage for Stratford-on-Avon was about
starting; I took a seat, and after eight miles journey, found myself
once more on the grand turnpike leading from Birmingham to Oxford.
Stratford is a small, inconsiderable, ill-built town, but celebrated as
the birth place of SHAKSPEARE. One of the smallest houses bears the
following inscription, “in this house the great Shakspeare was born.” It
is now a butcher’s stall and belongs to strangers, to whom Shakspeare’s
posterity were compelled by poverty to dispose of it. It is said that he
was born in a room of the Upper story; in this apartment are several old
pieces of furniture, the existence of which they flatteringly endeavour
to trace from the days of Shakspeare, also a poor portrait of the poet,
and a copy of his will; and a spectacle case made of the wood of a
mulberry tree, which they say was planted by him.
At Stratford I took a post-chaise, proceeded on my journey, and at ten
o’clock in the evening reached Oxford, which is thirty-nine miles from
Stratford. I took up my lodgings in the Star Hotel. As I had seen Oxford
three years previous, I merely sojourned there half a day, with the
intention of beholding once more, in the Bodleïan Library, the lovely
portrait of the unfortunate Mary Stuart, painted by Zucchero, and which
had formerly pleased me so much that I considered it as the best
likeness I had ever seen of that interesting woman. I therefore
proceeded to that library: I hurried through the library hall, but made
a much longer stay in the gallery of paintings. The sight of the
portrait of Mary Stuart renewed all my old impressions, and I gazed
intently upon it for a considerable time with the greatest pleasure.
I likewise remarked a collection of seven paintings by Schalk, effects
of light, representing the seven mortal sins, very well painted,
moreover a number of pieces by English painters, and a number of
portraits of the patrons and benefactors of the university, of its
chancellors, and several of the most celebrated literati who had resided
in the university. Also a few by Holbein, among which, the portraits of
Luther and Erasmus, pleased me the most. A full-length likeness of
Charles XII. of Sweden, by Schroeder, is uncommonly well finished; of
the same size, and next to it, hangs the portrait of Frederic William I.
King of Prussia. The physiognomy of the former, and the entire form, are
expressive of the great and original genius of that monarch; there is
something abhorrent, pedantic, and tyrannical in the features of the
latter.
The library contains several models of Grecian architecture, which are
skilful imitations in plaster; also a model of the Parthenon at Athens,
which very agreeably recalled to my mind Philadelphia and the Bank of
the United States. Here is likewise to be seen a model of the
Amphitheatre of Verona, cut in cork, and an elegant collection of the
Elgin marble bas reliefs, well imitated in plaster. A full-length statue
of one of the Lords of Warwick, in bronze, representing him in a warlike
costume, is also well worthy of the attention of travellers.
After having here satisfied my curiosity, I went to the Radcliff
Library, which is built in the form of a cupola, in order to enjoy a
view of the city from its roof. Fortunately the weather was very clear,
which seldom occurs in England, and as there are no manufactories and
steam-engines in Oxford, the atmosphere is not obscured by coal smoke.
The city, owing to its ancient university and churches, has a singular
appearance, and though I had seen during my travels a great many cities,
still I found none to be compared with Oxford. The university, its
twenty colleges, and five halls, have the appearance of so many old
castles: such is also the appearance of the Bodleïan Library, that
stands near the Radcliff library. In the court-yard of the former, there
is a gate, in which the five orders of architecture are placed over each
other, which produces a strange effect. Near the gate are four Tuscan
pillars, over these four Doric, above these four Ionic, and again over
these four Corinthian, and this strange conjunction is terminated by
four Roman columns. Two columns are always joined together. Between the
fourth row, the statue of James I. stands in a niche, next which, on the
right, as I believe, there is a Minerva, and on the left the university
is personified by a kneeling figure, to whom the learned king most
graciously tenders his own works. Four thousand students are said to
belong to the university, but there were very few then present, it being
vacation time. Therefore the city with its ancient buildings, looked
rather dull.
At twelve o’clock, noon, on the 19th of July, I left Oxford in the
post-chaise, and proceeded to London, which although fifty-eight miles
from Oxford, I reached in six hours. It is incredible how fast one
travels on this route and how quick they change horses. I was by chance
enabled to retain the chaise all the way from Oxford to Hounslow. The
moment I arrived at a post-house, a servant came instantly to demand,
whether I wished to stop or proceed; no sooner did I answer in the
affirmative, than he would call out for horses, and the whole proceeding
lasted at the utmost one minute. The leader was brought out, ready
harnessed, and put to; the postillion followed on the saddle-horse from
the stable, and remained in the saddle while they were gearing the
horses; the stable boy then requested his fee, and off we went. During
this journey, I was only detained three minutes at each post. They
charge for carriage and horses, eighteen pence a mile, and the
drink-money, three pence per mile. Since my journeying in this country
three years previous, postage had been raised three pence.
The road lay through a cultivated and woody country, and we traversed
several rising grounds. We passed many fine large country-seats,
surrounded by extensive parks. From Salt Hill, which is a very pretty
little place, there is on the right, a charming view of the castle of
Windsor, two miles distant, on the lofty round tower of which was
displayed the royal standard as a sign that the king was there. The
castle has really a very imposing appearance. The large Gothic church of
Eton College, recalled unpleasant recollections to my mind. For on my
visit to this college, three years past, they showed me on a shelf a
number of elegantly tied, long birch rods, with which youth, engaged
there in study, are flogged, and for the supply of which, a regular
contract is made with the steward. In a handsome village, called Slough,
stands the dwelling of the celebrated German astronomer, Herschel; there
is still to be seen in the garden, the stand supporting the telescope,
forty-eight feet long, by five feet in diameter, with which Herschel
made his great astronomical discoveries. Hounslow is a charming town,
and very lively, owing to its proximity to London. The number of stages
and other carriage, which I met with in this neighbourhood, is scarcely
to be credited. This concourse of vehicles, and afterwards the multitude
of country-seats, which follow one another in rapid succession, together
with the chain of towns, that continually present themselves, indicated
clearly, that I was approaching the greatest city in Europe, and perhaps
in the world. I remarked in Hammersmith and in Kensington,
a considerable number of new and handsomely built houses, that had been
erected within the last three years. We drove through Hyde Park into
Piccadilly street, and thence into Albemarle street, where I found
excellent quarters in Grillion’s hotel.
I made a stay of six days in London. To speak of the circle of my
acquaintance in which I moved during my residence in this bustling city,
would ill become this book, and to make any mention of London itself
would be both useless and superfluous. Consequently, I shall present but
a few particulars.
Whoever is obliged to make many visits to London, or whose business
takes him to many houses, loses an enormous quantity of time; to him one
day is as nothing. From my hotel to Mr. Goeman’s,[II-40] who resides in
the city, in the neighbourhood of the East India company’s stores, it
took me three quarters of an hour. At first to a stranger, a walk of
this kind is by no means tedious, on account of the great and strange
bustle surrounding him. In the stirring part of the city there is a
store in almost every house, and as the English are known to possess
much taste in displaying their wares, these stores have an amusing,
interesting, and charming appearance. In most of the streets the
pavement had been cast aside, and the streets were Macadamised; an
improvement which is both beneficial to those who ride, and to the
poor-built houses, which, owing to the rolling of heavy carriages along
the pavement, were dreadfully shaken. I had long been aware that several
merchants and tradesmen decorated their signs with the names of those
members of the royal family, by whom they were particularly patronised,
viz. corset inventress to the Dutchess of Kent, &c.; this time I
remarked in Knight’s bridge, on my way to Kensington, a sign bearing the
inscription of “only purveyor of asses milk to the royal family.”
Through the medium of Mr. Goeman, I received from the celebrated
engineer Brunel, an admission to visit the new tunnel, under the Thames;
it was a five miles drive from my lodgings. The entrance is near the
church of Rotherhithe. To commence the work they had to dig a round pit
seventy-five feet deep, above twenty feet in diameter, and walled in
with bricks. In the centre of this pit they have constructed a
quadrangular wooden scaffold. On this is erected a pumping machine, by
which the spring water that gushes out from the tunnel, is pumped off.
The water collects itself in a basin under the scaffold. The ejection of
it is accomplished by means of an iron pump, which draws off the water
from the basin, and forces it into an iron tube, which passes out from
the pit. Another pump and tube is in reserve to be immediately used, in
case the former should require repair. In the interior of this scaffold
there are two buckets, to hoist the earth from out the tunnel, one of
which comes up filled while the other goes down empty. These buckets
have four small iron wheels, and rest upon a board. The moment it
reaches the top, it is received by a workman, who carries it twenty feet
along a railway, to the place for depositing the earth, and after
emptying it carries it back on its board; that it may be let down while
the other is coming up filled. The place, into which the earth is
thrown, is a large wooden receiver, which is erected in the manner of a
bridge. In the bottom of this receiver are several holes, which can be
opened and closed by means of slides. The wagons destined for carrying
away the earth, drive underneath such a hole, the slide then is drawn
back, and the wagon is filled with earth and drives off. Up to this time
none but silicious earth has been dug out of the tunnel, and this was
appropriated to the filling up of the swampy ground, near Southwark. But
now they find clay, which is used in burning bricks. The machinery, by
which the buckets are hoisted and lowered, and that moves the pump, is
set in motion by a species of steam-engine, called the expansive engine,
an invention of Mr. Brunel. I did not perfectly comprehend its
mechanism, and could only perceive that it occupies a very small space,
and acts with great facility; there are two boilers and two machines,
one of which is unemployed, but can immediately be set in motion,
whenever any thing happens to the other, so that nothing may stop the
work.
[Footnote II-40: A respectable London merchant, and native of
Flanders, to whom I am much indebted for very important services.]
Around the wooden scaffold, stairs run down to the bottom of the pit.
My guide, Mr. Armstrong, who inspects the work under Mr. Brunel’s
direction, conducted me. When arrived at the bottom of the pit, we found
ourselves at the entrance of the tunnel, which then ran already, one
hundred and twenty feet under ground, to the bed of the Thames. It was
conceived that about one-third part of the work had been completed. The
tunnel consists of two vaults for two passages, one of them is for
carriages passing in, and the other for those going out. Along the
partition wall of those two vaults, there is on each side a somewhat
elevated side-walk for pedestrians; this wall is open in some places in
order to admit of a communication between both walks. It is lighted by
means of portable gas, which is contained in copper barrels.
The manner that the work is conducted, cannot be clearly explained
without a drawing. The scaffold, upon which the workmen stand who are
employed in digging out the earth, consists of thirty-six small boxes,
lying in three rows above each other. This scaffold is at the end of the
tunnel, and rests exactly against the earth to be taken away. There are
three men in each box, one to break the ground with a pick-axe, the
other to shovel it out of the box, and the third to throw it on a cart,
in which it is carried into the pit, whence it is raised in the buckets.
For the safety of the workmen, cross-timbers are used to prop up the
earth that is to be dug out. The first workman, on beginning his
excavation, removes the upper beam and hacks out the earth behind it;
which done, he takes away the second beam, and removes the second tier
of earth, then the third, &c. If sufficient earth, about a foot wide,
has been dug away from behind the first box, then the two boxes
adjoining, begin the same operation. During this time the masons are not
idle; for they continue working in the same proportion at the vault
which has to support the earth above the tunnel. When, however, all the
earth before the whole scaffold has been taken away, it is moved forward
by means of steel screws. Both above and below the scaffold there are
iron plates, with sharp edges, to facilitate the moving of it. On this
plan the work proceeds at the rate of two feet in twenty-four hours; it
is hoped that it would be completed in two years time; they have been
over a year already working at it. I regret very much my not having met
with Mr. Brunel, who is likewise the inventor of the block-machine at
Portsmouth, and other very useful engines.
In Leicester square there were two fine panoramas; one representing the
city of Edinburgh, and the other that of Mexico;[II-41] the former
panoramic view was taken from Caltonhill, and I recognized every place,
owing to my having been there three years previous. In beholding the
second, I regretted anew that my affairs during the last winter did not
permit me to undertake a journey to Mexico. The beautiful blue sky
reminded me of the happy days I passed in New Orleans, and I recognized
the lofty Andes from the description, which I have so often read of
them. Mexico deserves, if I am to judge from the panorama, to be called
the city of palaces, as it is generally styled. In order to give an idea
of the manners of the people, the artist gives a representation of the
circus on the great square during the time of a bull-fight, and not far
from it a procession.
[Footnote II-41: [Now exhibiting in New York.]--TRANS.]
At Regent’s place a diorama was to be seen. You are conducted into a
pretty dark round saloon, and you perceive there, through a square hole,
a painting that is lighted in a manner which cannot be discovered. The
painting represents a church in Scotland called Rosslyn chapel. You seem
to be at the entrance of the church, and you see that the sun darts his
beams from the side and causes multifarious shades, on account of the
bushes and trees in front of the windows of the church. In the rear of
the church you see a small door, leading to a yard, planted with
underwood, and in the back ground, a Gothic building. By and by the sun
disappears, and you perceive by the effect of light, that a storm is
approaching; then you see the effect of rain, and after this disappears,
you enjoy the finest sunshine. The illusion is so perfect, that you seem
to hear the rain. In the interior of the church several objects are
represented with the greatest accuracy, viz. a part of a scaffold, to
which ropes are attached, a basket with tools, &c. The Gothic pillars of
the church display a particularly handsome view.
After having contemplated this painting for a considerable time,
a signal is given with a bell. The floor on which the spectators stand,
turns to another opening through which you have a view of the city of
Rouen, in France. Now the same effects of light as in the other piece
are displayed, and you imagine yourself to be in the place, which is
represented to your sight. But the first piece made the best impression
on me. The finest part of this diorama is the representation of interior
parts of buildings.
I was delighted at the fine view of the newly-finished buildings of
Regent’s park, the construction of which was begun during my visit three
years ago. This new quarter consists of palaces. At Mr. Ackermann’s
store I enjoyed a sight of the greatest variety of fancy articles. It is
only to be regretted that the works published at his establishment are
so very expensive. I had the pleasure of becoming personally acquainted
with Mr. Ackermann, this venerable philanthropist is plain in
appearance, but is very interesting in his conversation. He spoke much
with me about my happily finished travels, and invited me to his
country-seat; but I was obliged to decline this invitation on account of
the short time which remained at my disposal. I next visited the store
of another German, a cutler and manufacturer of surgical instruments,
Mr. Weiss; he is a native of Rostock, but already more than thirty years
established in this city, and particularly in making surgical
instruments, he is said to be the first manufacturer in England. He
showed me several apparatus and instruments, among which there was one
for removing a stone, without the necessity of performing the operation
of cutting. He showed me the cast of a stone as large as a chesnut,
which had been extracted from the bladder of a man, without any cutting
operation. Moreover, he showed me a poison pump of his own invention, by
means of which, poisons that have been swallowed, may be extracted from
the stomach. This machine consists of a brass tube which contains the
pump; to this is attached a long tube of elastic gum, which terminates
in a sack of the same substance provided with holes. This tube is passed
through the throat into the stomach, and when the sack has entered the
stomach, the poison is pumped through the flexible tube into the brass
one. By turning the handle of the pump the gum tube is closed; then it
is forced down again, by means of which another valve on the other side
of the brass tube opens, and to this another elastic tube is attached,
through which the extracted poison is ejected. Then the handle is turned
a second time, which closes this valve and opens the first one, leading
to the tube that is fixed in the stomach, and the operation is continued
until no poison is left in the stomach. Mr. Weiss told me, that some
weeks ago, by means of this instrument, his son had saved the life of a
girl, who had taken a considerable dose of arsenic in a fit of amorous
desperation.
The English nobility give, at certain times, in the British institution,
Pallmall street, a public exhibition of their collections of precious
paintings. Just now there was the king’s collection of paintings from
his palace, Carlton-house, because they were about to demolish this
palace, and in its place erect an edifice after the model of the
Parthenon at Athens, which is calculated to contain the works of English
artists. This is a fine idea, and certainly encouraging for the artists
of this nation, but it is a pity that it causes the destruction of this
elegant palace. The British institution is a building which consists of
three large halls, and which receive their light from above. The
collection mostly contained paintings of Flemish artists, some English,
and a few Italian and French. There were seven pieces by Rubens, amongst
which I particularly noticed his own likeness and that of his first
wife, finished in the same manner as those in the collection of Mr.
Schamp at Ghent, and at Warwick Castle; besides these, a landscape with
figures, representing the history of St. George, with the portraits of
Queen Henrietta Maria and Charles I. for whom it was done. Seven
paintings by Vandyk, among which the portraits of Charles I. in three
views, which his lady had sent to the statuary Bernini at Rome, to
finish the bust of the king therefrom. A sketch, studies of horses and
horsemen, of remarkable value, and a full-size portrait of Gaston de
France, and two portraits of Queen Henrietta Maria, which, like that of
her unfortunate husband, I might call unavoidable, because it is to be
found almost in every collection of paintings in England. I found seven
pieces by Rembrandt, among which were several excellent portraits, and
his own; they were all easily distinguished by his particular colouring.
Fourteen paintings by Teniers, collections of people; small portraits;
a view of the towns of Holland, and a couple of landscapes, one of which
represents likewise, the artist, his wife, and his gardener; a real
ornament to this collection. One of these pieces, representing a village
festival, had been on the artist’s harpsichord. I admired two other
pieces, in the same style, by J. Ostade, and seven by A. Ostade; six by
Jan Steen. One of the latter, very excellently finished, represented an
elderly man, just rising from bed, who is listening to the reproaches of
a young girl, for his niggardliness; she holds forth to him a trifle of
money, and an old woman is urging him to be more generous. Four effects
of light, by Schalken, and a portrait by Holbein, are likewise worthy of
attention. Nine pieces by Wouverman are easily distinguished by the
white horses, representing skirmishes and country scenes. Seven pictures
by Mieris are to be known by their fine keeping. Three pieces are by
G. Douw, one by Slingelandt, and five by Metzu. A landscape by Ruisdael,
and two by Hobbema, attracted my particular attention, as well as eleven
pieces by Vandevelde, representing sea-pieces, landscapes, and views of
several cities of Holland; two of the latter are finished by him and
Vanderheyden jointly; I observed likewise, four very fine pieces by
Vanderwerff, one of them representing the Roman Mercy, the other a
concert, the third Lot with his daughters, and the fourth two children.
The collection is likewise rich in paintings of animals; there are four
capital works by G. Potter, one of them representing two hogs, as true
as if they were living. A piece by Hondekoeter, representing a chicken,
belongs likewise to this class, as well as ten pieces by Cuyp, in which
the landscapes are very well finished. Among these I enjoyed
particularly a camp-scene with a horseman in the fore-ground, engaged in
currying his horse. Six very good pieces, by Berghem ought not to be
omitted, nor a handsome sea-piece by Buckhuizen, with a view of Briel in
the back-ground.
Besides these pieces, there is a good collection of other paintings of
the same school, but it would lead me too far, to mention them all. From
other schools there are but a few and of less value. A landscape with
sheep, by Titian; Christ taken down from the Cross, by Michael Angelo
and Venusti, and another piece by Gonzalez. Among the paintings of
modern times, I found the portrait of Garrick and his wife, by Hogarth;
a domestic scene, by Greuze, and several pieces of an Italian painter,
Zeffani. One of them, which has become more generally known by the
copperplate of Bartolozzi, represents the Royal Academy of London, and
the other the Gallery of Florence, with the portraits of several
Englishmen of note, who sojourned at that time in Florence. By the same
artist I saw two pieces, representing the interior of two royal palaces,
with the children of George III. and their mother. These tasteless
pieces, compared with the before-mentioned elegant paintings, make an
unpleasant impression. I saw eight pieces by Sir Joshua Reynolds, among
which his own portrait and two full-size portraits of the Portuguese
Chief Marshal Count von der Lippe, and of the English General Marquis of
Granby. These two pieces are masterly works, and full of expression. You
distinguish in the countenance of Count von der Lippe and in his whole
posture, his profound and enterprising spirit, and in the features of
Lord Granby his great benevolence, which procured him in the army the
name of the soldier’s friend. The features of the count excite respect,
while those of the lord claim your attachment. I was much less pleased
with the historical pieces of Sir Joshua. The most handsome of the newer
paintings was undoubtedly the interior of the choir of a Capuchin chapel
by the French painter Granet. The expression of the countenances of the
monks is unparalleled; in some you see piety, in others listlessness;
another couple make sport of the exceeding piety of a monk, kneeling in
the middle of the hall; the countenance of a young, tall, stout monk, is
the personification of fanaticism. Near the altar stands a monk in the
sacerdotal habit, with two choristers and tapers in their hands, the
monk singing a hymn. The light is very well executed; it enters through
a large window in the back ground, and makes a fine effect on the bare
crown of the head and the gray beard of the priest. I think this piece
one of the finest of the whole collection. I saw here a great many
gentlemen and ladies, and it is said to be fashionable to visit this
splendid gallery in the afternoon.
On the 26th of July, (the anniversary of the day on which I first landed
on American ground at Boston,) I went to the custom-house for the
purpose of taking passage for Ostend on board the steam-boat Earl of
Liverpool, Captain Peak, which was laying there at anchor. At the
custom-house I was quite surprised. I expected to see the splendid,
newly-erected palace for the offices of the custom-house, the same
which, three years ago, I had admired so much, and instead of it, found
nothing but ruins. They said that the foundation had not been well
enough examined upon which the custom-house had been built by contract;
the building cracked, the large, splendid hall was near falling down,
and in order to prevent this accident, they were obliged to demolish the
centre building; both wings of the building were yet supported by beams,
but they soon will have to demolish them likewise, in order to build an
entirely new house. The gentleman who made the contract to have the
house built, lays the blame of this bad work upon the architect, and he
upon a commission, under whose control he acted.
The Earl of Liverpool, of one hundred and thirty tons, with two engines,
left London at eleven o’clock, A. M., and on the next morning at six
o’clock I landed at Ostend. At four o’clock, P. M. I proceeded by the
way of Bruegge to Ghent. During this journey I remembered an observation
which I had heard frequently in America, that upon an American visiting
Europe for the first time, nothing makes a greater impression than the
old monuments, which trace the time past for many centuries, and which
are a proof of the prosperity and good taste of preceding generations.
I found this observation perfectly true, by my own feelings on returning
from America, which exhibits none but new objects, and has nothing but a
bustling present struggling for future improvement.
On the 28th of July, at four o’clock, P. M., I arrived at Ghent.
THE END.
* * * * *
* * * *
* * * * *
Errors and Inconsistencies (noted by transcriber)
Spelling was corrected if the mistake was clearly mechanical, or
inconsistent with the author’s (or translator’s) usage elsewhere.
This includes some spellings that were acceptable in 1828, but are
different from other occurrences of the same word.
All commas are as printed. Inconsistent italicization of ships’ names
is as in the original. The notation “invisible” means that there is an
appropriately sized empty space, but the punctuation itself is missing.
“Bodleïan” is written with dieresis
“chesnut” is standard for the time and is used consistently
“team boat” (referring to canals) is not an error
“lime-stone” and “sand-stone” are hyphenated at the beginning
of the book but later become single words
“free-stone” or “freestone” are not frequent enough to establish
a pattern
“country seat” starts out as two words, but later becomes
hyphenated “country-seat”
the inconsistent spacing of “no( )where” “every( )where”
and “else( )where” is unchanged
“back ground” is generally two words; “fore-ground” occurs only once
Spelling (unchanged):
appointed him his aid
present as aid to the Emperor
Mr. Butler, his aid
[_the spelling “aid” is used consistently_]
the tatoed and dried head of a New Zealand chief
roast-beef, plumb-pudding, &c.
This place is called the antichamber.
it is fixed in a cramp [_text unchanged: error for “clamp”?_]
some negroes, who were frolicing during the Christmas holy-days
corset inventress to the Dutchess of Kent
[_“Duchess” and “Dutchess” are each used once_]
French (corrected):
From the left wing a line runs _en crémaillère_
[crémaillére]
When a lady is left sitting, she is said to be “bredouille.”
[bredouillè]
so that they would consider their labour in the light of a corvée.
[corveè]
Errors (corrected):
strange bas-reliefs, representing ancient hunting scenes
[bass-reliefs]
the rooms are not large; the beds [is not]
On the top of the capitol is a cupola [cupalo]
the pen is too feeble to delineate the simultaneous feelings
of insignificance and grandeur [simultaneons ... insignificence]
then a company of sappers and miners, [minors]
in which again each sex has its own side [each sect]
There are two paintings by Teniers [painting]
the office and place of deposit for bound bibles [deposite]
They recall to memory Glenn’s Falls on the Hudson
[recal; _“recall” is used consistently elsewhere_]
the other loses by faint colouring [looses]
an English copy of the illustrations of Göthe’s Faust laid open.
[illustratrations; _spelling “Göthe” with umlaut unchanged_]
In a hollow place there is a basin, or rather a reservoir [their is]
close by it stands the prison, or county gaol, [goal]
this journey of one hundred and ninety-eight miles [ninty-eight]
the log houses were only employed as negro cabins [onegr]
we might lie several days, perhaps weeks here [several day]
because they had not received their pay for some time.
[_missing “not”_]
Several of the French families here settled [familes]
so as not to lose themselves in the woods [loose]
and on this account, the proceeding to me appeared arbitrary [acount]
has followed me even in America like an evil genius [and evil]
an inspection on the Red river, the Arkansas, and New Orleans
[Arkansa; _“Arkansas” is used consistently elsewhere_]
a great part of the houses are built of brick; [_missing “a”_]
We frequently rode along the new national turnpike road
[frequently road]
over some stone bridges of sumptuous construction [contruction]
about the right bank of the Alleghany and Ohio [righ]
parallel ridges, called Laurel hill. [callel]
the girls learn to sew and knit [sow]
The gentlemen above named accompanied me to the vessel. [accompaned]
every thing, manufactured in Birmingham, [Burmingham]
a fine view into a considerable suite of rooms [considerble]
until no poison is left in the stomach [stomuch]
Spacing, hyphenization, capitalization:
By his highness, Bernhard, Duke of Saxe-Weimar Eisenach.
[_capitalized as shown_]
two stories besides a ground floor, and may contain [floor,and]
so that it is excellently adapted to waterworks
[_anomalous missing hyphen unchanged_]
They have a large kitchen garden [they have]
The corpse is put in the corpse-house [the corpse]
views of Monticello, Mount Vernon, the principal buildings in
Washington [Mount-Vernon]
many evergreen trees and bushes. [ever green]
with Madam Herries; he is a Frenchman [Herries;he]
This is, however, the case with most of the stores [this is]
Punctuation:
Footnote I-4: [This manuscript .... of London.]--TRANS.
[_printed “of London.--TRANS.]”: changed for consistency_]
On the 9th, at 6 A. M. she arrived at _Falmouth_. [6 A. M]
Schenectady.-- Utica.-- Rochester. [--Utica--]
and produce much vexation in consequence of the baggage.
[_final . missing_]
the village of St. Regis, the last belonging to the United States.
[_final . missing_]
a monument erected by the colony in honour of Lord Nelson.
[_final . missing_]
to protect the place of embarkation by a fort.
[_final . missing_]
On the ensuing morning I went with Mr. Halbach to Mr. Vaux
[Mr Vaux: _period invisible_]
mineralogy and geology.-- ... lectures on chemistry.
[_missing . after “geology” and “chemistry”_]
drawing of the human figure.-- [_final . missing_]
The cotton cleaned from its seed is put into a large chest,
pressed in, and packed up.
[_final . missing_]
Mr. Nott studied in England and France
[Mr Nott: _period invisible_]
the 16th ultimo from Liverpool [ultimo.]
[Footnote II-9: [... within these accursed walls.]--TRANS.
[_missing -- before “Trans.”_]
the river is fordable in many places above the falls.”
[_close quote missing_]
a diameter of one hundred and fifty yards during forty miles.”
[_close quote missing_]
even this navigation so expensive and destructive to the wood,
will cease [_punctuation unchanged_]
one hundred and twenty horses, which daily work here, [work here.]
in the neighbourhood of Lake Ontario and the river St. Lawrence
[St Lawrence]