_Cincinnati, interior of the State of Ohio.-- Pittsburgh, in
Pennsylvania._
On the 30th of April I was very agreeably surprised by a visit from
Colonel Wool, returning from an inspection on the Red river, the
Arkansas, and New Orleans: he had ascended the stream in the steam-boat
Washington, and arrived in the night at Shippingport. Being on his
return to Washington, he took his passage on board the steam-boat
Atlanta, for Pittsburgh. As this boat stopped at Cincinnati, whither it
was my intention to go, I immediately concluded upon continuing my
journey in the same boat, to enjoy as long as possible the society of so
estimable a friend. We went on board between ten and eleven. The Atlanta
was crowded with passengers, but we were fixed very comfortably and
neatly. The greater part of the passengers were from Natchez, who came
with the intention of spending the summer in the healthier northern
states. Among them was Major Chotard, who was going with his family to
New York, whence he intended to embark for France; and Abbé Martial,
a Frenchman, who had kept a boarding-school in New Orleans for a long
time, and was at that time employed by the Bishop of Kentucky in
Bairdstown, on whose account he was to travel in France and Italy.
Our trip up the river was very pleasant. The weather was fine; the
shores of the Ohio became more and more interesting the higher we
ascended the stream. In the afternoon, we perceived on the right shore
the little town of Madison, situated on an eminence. It appeared to be
in a flourishing condition, and contained many brick houses; a multitude
of well-dressed persons were standing on the shore. Towards evening we
passed the mouth of the Kentucky river on the left shore. The Kentucky
river, according to the Western Navigator, is a beautiful river in
Kentucky. It originates in the Cumberland mountains, is two hundred
miles in length, one hundred and fifty of which are navigable. Its mouth
is one hundred and sixty yards broad, and proves to be an excellent
harbour for boats. The town occupies a very pretty situation; above its
mouth, and farther down lies Prestonville. The flourishing town of
Frankfort, the seat of government, is situated about sixty miles from
the mouth of the river. The former is five hundred and twenty-four and a
half miles distant from Pittsburgh, fifty-seven and a half from
Cincinnati, and fifty-five and a half from Louisville. Shortly after
leaving Louisville, we were followed by another steam-boat called the
General Marion, towards evening it reached, and wanted to pass us;
a race took place, which discomposed us considerably, and became
dangerous to a high degree. The boilers, being soon over-heated, might
have burst and occasioned a great disaster; during this time we were so
close together, that the railing, as well as the roofs of the wheels
knocked against each other. The danger increased as night drew on, and
particularly so as there were a great number of ladies on board, who
were crying in a most piteous manner. One of them conducted herself most
distractedly; she fell into hysteric fits, wanted to throw herself in
the water on the opposite side of the boat, and could scarcely be
prevented by three strong men. The heating of the boilers of the General
Marion had been so violent, that they ran short of wood, and to their
great confusion, and our extreme satisfaction, they were not only left
behind, but were overtaken by the slow steam-boat Ohio: thus the Atlanta
obtained a brilliant victory. Ten miles above the mouth of the Kentucky
river on the right shore, is the little town of Vevay, built and
inhabited by Switzers. They planted vineyards, which it is said give
them a good revenue. I regretted very much that we passed them by night,
and thus were deprived of the view of Vevay. On the left shore is a
small village called Ghent, in honour of the treaty concluded in that
city, in Flanders. I regretted not to have been able to visit that
place, if only on account of the name. Without farther accident we went
on the whole night, and next morning found ourselves opposite to the
mouth of the Great Miami, which joins the Ohio from the right shore.
This stream forms the boundary between the states of Indiana and Ohio,
and the Western Navigator makes the following observation concerning it.
“The Great Miami is a considerable river, which takes its sources in
Allen, Logan, Shelby, Merion, and Drake counties. It runs southerly
through Miami and Montgomery counties, and receives in the last two
considerable rivers, on the left the Mad river, and on the right the
south-west fork. On entering Butler county the Miami takes a
south-westerly direction, and flows into the Ohio at the south-west
corner of this state, and the north-east one of Indiana. Its course is
one hundred and twenty miles. Its sources situated between 40° and 41°
lat. are in the vicinity of the Massassinaway, a branch of the Wabash,
the Auglaize and St. Mary’s, which are branches of the Maumée and the
Sciota, its course is in general rapid, but without any considerable
falls, and runs through a large and fertile valley which is partly
submerged by high water. Near Dayton, about seventy-five miles from its
mouth, the Miami receives on the east side the Mad river; from this
place boats carrying three and four thousand barrels, may run into the
Ohio during high water. The trial of ascending Mad river is seldom made,
the stream being too rapid and there being a great many sand-banks and
dams. The Miami has a diameter of one hundred and fifty yards during
forty miles.”
We found the shores of the Ohio well cultivated, with orchards and
Indian corn: we observed several very pretty country-seats. These shores
are mostly elevated, and at the distance of about a mile we could
perceive a chain of hills covered with woods, which made a fine
prospect. Towards ten o’clock in the morning we reached Cincinnati, four
hundred and forty-nine miles from Pittsburgh, one hundred and thirty-one
from Louisville, and fourteen hundred and eighty from New Orleans. It is
situated on the right shore of the Ohio, and built at the foot of a
hill, which is surrounded by a half circle of higher hills covered with
forests. This city presents a very fine aspect. The hills on the
opposite side likewise form a half circle, and in this manner the hill
on which Cincinnati is built, lies as it were in a basin. On the left
shore, the Licking river flows into the Ohio. This, says the Western
Navigator, is a considerable river in Kentucky, which, originating not
far from the sources of the Cumberland and running about two hundred
miles in a north-westerly direction, flows into the Ohio opposite
Cincinnati. The towns of Newport and Covington, the former immediately
above, and the latter below the mouth of Licking river, are beautifully
situated in Campbell county, Kentucky: Newport contains a military depot
of the United States. The shores near Cincinnati are rather steep, and
to render the loading and unloading of boats more convenient, they are
paved and provided with rings and chains of iron.
Before we could land, the health officers came on board to seek
information respecting the health of the passengers, as great fears were
entertained in Cincinnati of the small-pox, which was raging in
Louisville. We took lodgings at Mack’s, a good hotel, near the shore.
Shortly after our arrival, I took a walk in town with Colonel Wool and
Major Foster, of the sixth regiment, who came here to recruit. We
visited some bookstores. The town contains about fifteen thousand
inhabitants, and consists mostly of brick houses. Some of the streets
run parallel with the Ohio, and others form a right-angle with them,
which makes them very regular; they are wide, well-paved, and have
side-walks. Those streets which cross in the direction of the river,
ascend and lead to the top of the hill, from which there is a view
resembling a panorama. Here they were building a large Catholic
cathedral, which was commenced during the last year, and would probably
be finished the next: it will be an ornament to the city. The Bishop,
Mr. Fenwick, had been travelling for some years past in the Catholic
countries of Europe, and had collected considerable contributions for
the construction of this cathedral. The old cathedral, a modest wooden
building, stands yet in the rear of the new one; it is to be demolished
when the former is finished. Cincinnati was settled in the year 1788,
round an old fort, called Washington. The first settlers came from New
England. The settlement did not succeed until 1794, when General Wayne
subdued the Indians. In 1815, it contained six thousand five hundred,
in 1818, about nine thousand, and in 1826, about fifteen thousand.
Cincinnati is the most important city of the western states. There are
two Presbyterian, two Methodist, one Episcopal, one Baptist, one
Swedenborg, and one Quaker church, and the Catholic cathedral. There are
three markets, and several museums. We visited the principal one, called
the Western Museum, but did not meet with any thing new: several Indian
dresses, weapons, pipes, a human scalp, a dried human head from the
South Sea Islands, the head of an Egyptian mummy, manuscripts on papyrus
from the sarcophagus of the mummies, several ancient and modern coins,
the last consisting mostly of foreign gold coins, and some objects of
natural history; a handsome collection of birds, many of them European,
several quadrupeds, some minerals, as well as an indifferent collection
of butterflies. We also saw some oil paintings,[II-23] scarcely worth
mentioning, and finally some show-boxes.
[Footnote II-23: These had been presented to Bishop Fenwick by
Cardinal Fesch, for his cathedral, and were only here, until they
could find their place in the Temple of God.]
To my great regret, Colonel Wool left us this day, to continue his
journey up the river, on board the Atlanta. Having seen on the map of
the city of Cincinnati, the indication of some Indian mounds, I went in
search of them, but was unsuccessful, for the very good reason that the
hills had been demolished and in their place houses built. After this I
called on Bishop Fenwick, but he was not at home. I here met with a
clergyman who was a native of Hildesheim, his name was Rese, who was
educated in the Propaganda in Rome. This man showed me the old and new
cathedral. The former is built of wood, resembling a German village
church; in its interior the splendid episcopal seat is particularly
distinguished. The altar had but few ornaments with the exception of
four silver chandeliers which the Queen of Etruria gave to Bishop
Fenwick for his church, and a gilded tabernacle a gift from Pope Pius
VII. In the sacristy there were no ornaments, with the exception of two
gilded frames with relics. The new cathedral is a spacious and lofty
building: they were building the choir, in which an organ made in
Pittsburgh was to be placed. There was to be a large vault under the
altar, destined for the sepulture of the bishops and clergymen. The
church had not as yet any bells, with respect to these, the clergy
expected some contributions from Italy. The vicar-general of the bishop
was Abbé Hill,[II-24] he had formerly been a captain in the British
service, and having become a Catholic while in Italy, entered the
Dominican order. He was said to be a good orator.
[Footnote II-24: [Brother of Lord Hill.]--TRANS.]
Deer creek runs into the Ohio above the town--two wooden bridges lead
over it. This brook was very inconsiderable, and could be leaped over,
but it was evident from its steep shores that it swelled sometimes to a
great height. On the other side of this creek is the highest hill in the
vicinity. From its summit there is a delightful prospect over the city
and valley, the centre of which it occupies. This view, _even_ in
Europe, would be considered as very handsome. I found on the top a great
quantity of reddish limestone with shells, an evident proof that this
part of the country was formerly covered by the sea. Among the gentlemen
who favoured me with their visits, I remember a General Neville, from
Pittsburgh, whose father had been adjutant to General La Fayette during
the revolutionary war. Mr. Symmes,[II-25] brother of Captain Symmes,
author of the theory that our planet is hollow and inhabited, drew very
well, and had collected the likenesses of all the persons visiting
Cincinnati who had interested him: he had the kindness to include my
portrait in his collection. Some of these gentlemen conducted me to see
the remains of Indian antiquities which are yet existing, but which
could scarcely be recognized. We ascended an Indian mound, which is
about thirty feet high, situated in a garden. One part of it had been
cut off, but nothing being found in it, they began to plant it with
trees. I had resolved on travelling in the interior of the state of
Ohio, in order to convince myself of the condition of this country,
which has been inhabited but thirty years by a white population.
I therefore renounced the comfortable travelling on the Ohio for the
inconvenient passage by land. To be enabled to travel at my leisure,
I hired a carriage with four horses, at six dollars per day, and left
Cincinnati on the 3rd of May, at eleven o’clock, A. M. We rode that day
twenty-one miles, to the lodgings of the governor, Mr. Morrow, to whom I
had letters from Governor Johnson, of New Orleans. The road led through
a hilly and well-cultivated country. The fields separated by worm fences
adjoin each other, and contain good dwelling-houses and barns. Their
extensive orchards mostly contain apple and peach trees. I had not seen
before any place in the United States in so high a state of cultivation.
But alas! the rain had made the roads so muddy, that it was with
difficulty we proceeded. Fourteen miles from Cincinnati we reached a
little country town, Montgomery, of very good appearance, surrounded
with handsome fields. A few years past there were nothing but woods
here, as the roots which still exist bear testimony. They cultivate
Indian corn and wheat, which is said to succeed better here than in the
state of Indiana. The dwelling of the governor consists of a plain frame
house, situated on a little elevation not far from the shore of the
little Miami, and is entirely surrounded by fields. The business of the
state calls him once a month to Columbus, the seat of government, and
the remainder of his time he passes at his country-seat, occupied with
farming, a faithful copy of an ancient Cincinnatus; he was engaged at
our arrival in cutting a wagon pole, but he immediately stopt his work
to give us a hearty welcome. He appeared to be about fifty years of age;
is not tall, but thin and strong, and has an expressive physiognomy,
with dark and animated eyes. He is a native of Pennsylvania, and was one
of the first settlers in the state of Ohio. He offered us a night’s
lodging at his house, which invitation we accepted very thankfully. When
seated round the chimney fire in the evening, he related to us a great
many of the dangers and difficulties the first settlers had to contend
with. They suffered mostly from the Delawares, the Indians then living
there. They had to place their houses in a state of defence. There are
at present scarcely any Indians in the state of Ohio, and it is not now
necessary for the inhabitants to guard their crops and cattle, or to
tremble for their lives. The governor told us that the increase of
population in the state of Ohio was almost incredible. In the year 1800,
it amounted to two hundred thousand inhabitants, in 1810, between four
and five hundred thousand, in 1820, about eight hundred thousand, and it
is to be expected that at the next census of 1830, it will pass one
million. Very few of the settlers brought any thing with them, it was
therefore necessary that they should do every thing by their industry
and exertion. The state had not yet been able to undertake any public
works, roads, &c. The two canals which were constructing, were the first
great work which they had attempted. We spent our evening with the
governor and his lady. Their children are settled, and they have with
them only a couple of grandchildren. When we took our seats at supper,
the governor made a prayer. There was a bible and several religious
books lying on the table. After breakfasting with our hospitable host,
we took our leave at nine o’clock, and rode fifteen miles to Union
Village, a settlement of the Shakers. The road was again hilly, and the
country as well cultivated as that we saw yesterday; we passed through a
country town of good appearance, Lebanon, which lies only four miles
from the Shaker Village.
[Footnote II-25: [Peyton Symmes, Esq. receiver of the land
office.]--TRANS.]
Towards three o’clock, P. M. we reached Union Village, and as the
Shakers do not allow any taverns nor public houses, we were received
with great hospitality into one of their private dwellings; we had a
clean and very nice apartment. Soon after our arrival, we were visited
by a great number of the brothers, who looked at us in a very
scrutinizing manner, and asked us a great many questions. The
inquisitiveness of these people resembles very much that of the monks,
to whom they bear a strong resemblance. I remarked among them two old
persons named M‘Naman and Houston, on account of their sensible
conversation; they had formerly been Presbyterian clergymen, and are now
a sort of church-wardens to the congregation. This sect consists of six
hundred members, and is of more recent origin than the one in the state
of New York, containing mostly people of limited fortune. It had to
contend in the commencement with great difficulties, and was not in so
flourishing a condition as the one in New Lebanon. The produce of their
labours is scarcely sufficient for their wants, they have therefore not
been able as yet to establish stores, which are so productive to their
fellow believers in New Lebanon. Their houses are good and clean, they
are almost all of brick, and distant from each other. Each house has a
stone staircase leading to two doors, separated only by a window. The
right one is for the men, and the left for the females or sisters, and
so the right side of the house is destined for the brothers and the left
for the sisters. In the rear of the dwelling-houses, some of which
contain sixty members, there is a separate building for the kitchen and
dining-room, and for the workshops. The houses are surrounded with sods,
over these boards are laid leading to the pumps, stables, wash-houses,
&c.; along the side-walk and the road through the village, there are
also boards for the pedestrian. At six o’clock in the evening, the
members take supper in the adjacent refectories; I was permitted to look
at them. Two long tables were covered on each side of the room, behind
the tables were benches, in the midst of the room was a cupboard. At a
signal given with a horn, the brothers entered the door to the right,
and the sisters the one to the left, marching two and two to the table.
The sisters in waiting, to the number of six, came at the same time from
the kitchen and ranged themselves in one file opposite the table of the
sisters. After which they all fell on their knees making a silent
prayer, then arose, took hold of the benches behind them, sat down and
took their meal in the greatest silence. I was told this manner was
observed at all their daily meals. They eat bread, butter and cakes, and
drank tea. Each member found his cup filled before him--the serving
sisters filling them when required. One of the sisters was standing at
the cupboard to pour out the tea--the meal was very short, the whole
society rose at once, the benches were put back, they fell again on
their knees, rose again, and wheeling to the right, left the room with a
quick step. I remarked among the females some very pretty faces, but
they were all without exception of a pale and sickly hue. They were
disfigured by their ugly costume, which consists of a white starched
bonnet. The men likewise had bad complexions. During the whole evening I
was visited by the brothers, by whom I was completely examined; among
them were two Frenchmen of the name of Conchon, father and son, who told
me they were very well satisfied. The son had perfectly adopted the
humble manner of the monks, did not open his eyes, and in explaining the
principles of their sect according to the bible, he maintained that they
were the only Christian sect who followed the true spirit of the gospel.
Respecting their political regulations, they are entirely founded on
perfect community of goods, and renunciation of all private property;
they live in a perfect equality. It will be found that Mr. Owen has
borrowed the greater part of the laws of his new social system from the
Shakers, with this difference, that the Shakers are united by the tie of
religion, and the hope of a better life, which is entirely disbelieved
by Owen.
It is known that a part of the worship of the believers in mother Ann
Lee, as the Shakers call themselves, consists in dancing. The bible
gives us several examples of worship by dancing--king David danced
before the ark. Mother Ann Lee, founder of this sect, taught that God
should not only be worshipped with the tongue but with the whole body,
and in consequence she introduced jumping and dancing in her divine
service. This is practised publicly in church, accompanied by the
singing of hymns composed for the purpose--strangers are admitted as
spectators. Their church consists of a plain and spacious room, but not
near so large as the church at New Lebanon. On the mornings and evenings
during the week, there are private dancing prayers in the dwelling
houses. The walls of the rooms of the brothers and sisters consists of
large folding doors, which, when opened, form with the corridor one
large room, in which they dance and jump. Our presence putting them
under some restraint, there was no dancing in the evening, which was a
great disappointment to us. Delicacy prevented my inquiring after the
dance. At nine o’clock in the evening every one retired. I was shown to
a very good and clean room.
The following day, 5th May, several brothers called upon me. Among them
was a German, the only one belonging to this sect. His name was
Christian Bockholder, a native of Neuwied on the Rhine. He is a small,
weakly man, who was converted to this sect but six years ago, and who
seemed much pleased, particularly with the good order, tranquillity, and
peace, which reigns among them; but he observed that this life not
suiting every one, it was necessary to try it carefully before becoming
a member; he had lived six months among them before being received.
Finally he remarked, that notwithstanding every one was free to leave
the society when he thought proper, it would be very wrong to do so, as
when once accustomed to it he would be utterly unfit for the world. At
nine o’clock, when we left Union Village, they, to our surprise, refused
to receive either pay or presents, and nothing now remained but to
return verbal thanks for their hospitality, after which we parted. We
rode twenty-six miles to Xenia, a small country town, where we arrived
after five o’clock, P. M.
We rode through a very fine and cultivated country, which originally
consisted of woods. We saw at least every five hundred paces with an
habitation or some fields. Those forests which still remain, are chiefly
composed of oak, ash, sugar-maple, plane, shumac, and dogwood trees; the
latter bears handsome white flowers. I did not find the vegetation so
much advanced as in the states of Indiana and Kentucky. We suffered very
much from the bad roads, a greater part of which were log causeways.
I walked a great part of the way. We forded several little rivulets and
creeks, among them the Little Miami; we found a tree laid across without
a rail, intended as a bridge. At several of these we saw some flour and
saw-mills, and passed several small and new settlements, with neat brick
houses and large barns. The handsomest is Bellbrook. Xenia, where we
found a good tavern, is situated very agreeably. The streets are large,
and cross each other at right angles: most of the houses are of brick,
and are situated at a certain distance from each other. The number of
inhabitants is about eight hundred, who farm and carry on different
trades. This little place has two printing-offices, a Latin school, and
several stores. In the centre of the town is the court-house, built of
brick. Xenia is the chief town of Green county. Next to it is a massive
jail. In an excursion we made the following day, May 6th, I remarked one
of the machines for preparing flax, of which I bought a copyright at the
patent-office in Washington. It was worked by a single horse, and did
the work of five men, besides which the flax does not require any
rotting. After nine o’clock we departed, and rode eighteen miles to
Springfield. We stopped on our way at a small village, Yellow Springs,
to see the spring from which this place derives its name. The village
occupies a woody elevation on the shore of the Little Miami, rushing
through a deep rocky valley. The place is small, and was bought by a
society of twelve gentlemen, under the direction of Mr. Lowndes,
a friend of Mr. M‘Clure. These gentlemen intended to found a sect upon
Owen’s system; there had been one established here previously, but
dissolved on account of the majority of them being worthless creatures,
who had brought neither capital, nor inclination to work. Mr. Lowndes,
whose acquaintance I made, said that he expected new and better members.
The locality is healthy and favourable for such an establishment. The
spring originates in a limestone rock, the water has a little taste of
iron, and deposits a great quantity of ochre, from which it takes its
name. The spring is said to give one hundred and ten gallons of water
per minute, which is received in a basin, surrounded with cedar trees.
The yellow stream which comes from the basin, runs a short distance over
a bed of limestone and is afterwards precipitated into the valley. These
limestone rocks form very singular figures on the edge of this valley;
the detached pieces resemble the Devil’s Wall of the Hartz.
They had no baths fitted up, as yet there is only a shower-bath. The
former will most probably be established, when it becomes a place of
public resort. Mr. Lowndes told me that it was their intention to take
more water in, and to have some walks established in the vicinity, to
which the surrounding country is very favourable. Following Mr. Lowndes’
advice, we took a roundabout way of one mile and rode to a saw-mill
called Patterson’s mill, to see the lesser falls of the Little Miami.
I had no reason to repent it, as I was richly rewarded with one of the
finest prospects I ever beheld. The Little Miami forces itself for the
length of a mile with most singular windings through a rocky dale at
least fifty feet deep, which in many places is but eighteen feet wide,
it forms little cataracts, and suddenly disappears for a short distance.
Large cedar trees shade this precipice, which makes it very gloomy, and
contribute in a great measure to the peculiarity of this imposing scene
of nature. The rocks are very steep, and are connected by a bridge, on
which one looks from the dizzy precipice into a real abyss. Following a
narrow path, I went down to the water and found myself almost in
obscurity. I felt entirely separated from the world, and was scarcely
able to preserve the consciousness of my own existence. I experienced a
peculiar feeling on again perceiving the day-light. Following the course
of the rushing waters I reached Patterson’s saw-mill, where the men
working for their daily bread, recalled me to human life. Near the
saw-mill a dam forms an artificial waterfall, making a very handsome
effect, being about twenty feet high. The saw-mill has a horizontal
water-mill of the same description as those which I had previously seen
in the United States. With a strong fall of water these wheels have more
effect, and are cheaper than those used in other countries. The road
from the mill to Springfield was bad, mostly by causeways, and I was
again compelled to walk a greater part of the way. Springfield is the
chief town of Clark county, and lies partly at the foot of a hill and
partly upon it, at the confluence of two creeks, the shores are so
marshy that I believe it would be possible to cut turf there. The town
contains fifteen hundred inhabitants, nearly all the houses are built of
brick, the streets are wide and right-angled, they are not paved; the
principal street has a side-walk of brick. In the centre of this little
town is a court-house built of brick, and having the form of an octagon;
next to it stands a jail. The place is surrounded with orchards, meadows
and well cultivated fenced fields. A chain of hills end in a point
behind the town, not far from the confluence of both creeks. On this
point are four insulated hills, which are said to be Indian mounds,
three stand on the edge of one of the creeks, and at some distance is
the fourth, which is quite detached from the others. The latter is the
highest, its elevation is more than one hundred feet above the level of
the valley; from this hill the eye commands a view over Springfield, the
whole surrounding valley, the union of both valleys and the woody
heights encircling the whole, there are clusters of blooming and high
black thorn bushes growing in the meadows, which produce a good effect.
This place seems to be opulent, it contains several good stores, and
depends chiefly on the breeding of cattle and agriculture. We were very
comfortably lodged at the inn at which we stopped.
On the 7th of May, at nine o’clock, we left Springfield on a beautiful
Sunday morning, and curiosity had assembled a crowd of people before our
inn, to gaze at such wonders as we were. We went twenty-three miles on
the road to Columbus, until we arrived at a single tavern, called
Pike’s. The country was less cultivated than we had seen since leaving
Cincinnati; we saw however, several fine orchards and fields; all the
settlements are new, and the habitations mostly consist of log-houses;
we met several carts filled with well-dressed country people and several
of both sexes on horseback, they were all going to church at
Springfield. The road was generally very bad, and over many log
causeways, kept in bad order. Beyond the woods, we saw vast tracts of
meadow ground, on which only a few trees could be seen, but there were
very handsome black thorns in flower. On the meadows numerous cattle
were grazing, we passed two with a great number of sheep, and hogs were
always plenty; the breeding of cattle is carried on to a great extent;
quantities of cheese and butter are made here for sale; the cattle are
drove to the eastern states, or the meat is salted and sent to New
Orleans. We observed a great many partridges of a large kind, which they
call pheasants[II-26] here; the forests abound with wild pigeons. We
reached our lodging place, Pike’s tavern, about four o’clock in the
afternoon. It is situated amidst meadows[II-27] and consists of two
log-houses erected close behind each other, they resemble those of the
state of Georgia, differing only in being better suited for a colder
climate, as the crevices are filled with clay. Our landlord only began
his establishment five years ago; he came from Massachusetts. Towards
evening we saw a fine drove of cattle belonging to him, and in which his
fortune chiefly consisted. Next morning we left our abode where we had
been better lodged than we had expected, and went twenty miles farther
to Columbus. The road was worse than any I had ever met with, consisting
generally of log causeways, which are badly assorted and have large
holes between them. We were barbarously jolted about, and therefore I
went more than half the way on foot; the soil principally consists of a
black meadow ground, marshy, with little wood and less cultivated. It is
said to be unwholesome during the summer; the houses are scattered and
in a bad condition. At one mile from Columbus, is a small place called
Franklinton, having several brick houses and a court-house. Its increase
was at one time promising, but Columbus prevents its future advancement.
Columbus is situated on the high left bank of the Sciota; we forded this
river, which was perilous, as the water ran into our carriage; there was
a wooden bridge formerly between Franklinton and Columbus, but it was
broken down a year ago; trees are growing very fast in the woods in the
vicinity, but the wood is without strength and becomes rotten as soon as
it attains its growth, which makes it impossible to depend on the
duration of wooden buildings. Columbus is the chief town of the state of
Ohio, and contains about one thousand eight hundred inhabitants, and
three churches; one Presbyterian, one Lutheran, and one Methodist. In
the year 1812, there were nothing but forests, and in the same year the
lots of the city with the wood were sold, upon which they immediately
commenced building. It is astonishing how this place has since
increased, and still continues to improve--the streets are wide, and
cross each other at right angles. The principal street running parallel
with the Sciota, is about one hundred feet wide, having side-walks, and
a considerable number of brick houses--the adjoining streets are not yet
much occupied. In building the principal streets, one of the Indian
mounds has been opened, and nearly destroyed. A great number of human
bones were found, remains of urns, and an owl carved in stone, but very
clumsy; with the clay of which the mound was made, bricks were burned
which served for the construction of the state-house; this building
contains the offices of the state, and the United States court. These
three buildings stand near each other at one end of the principal
street, each of them having two stories--the state-house as well as the
court, are situated at the sides of these long offices, which gives them
the appearance of barracks; they have steeples and galleries, from which
the course of the Sciota, receiving a mile above the town the Whetstone
river, can be followed with the eye to a great distance over the fertile
plain on the right shore of the Sciota, where Franklinton is situated,
and is a very handsome sight. The Sciota originates in the state of
Ohio, runs one hundred and eighty-two miles, and flows in the Ohio
between Portsmouth and Alexandria, its mouth is one hundred and fifty
yards wide; it is navigable one hundred and thirty miles and upwards.
The Whetstone, which it receives above Columbus, is at certain times
navigable for nine miles. About five miles above Columbus, on the left
shore of the Sciota, is a quarry of white sandstone, which resembles
marble until polished, after which it turns grey. Columbus contains
three printing-offices, each of which issues a newspaper. There are also
bookstores, one of them belongs to Mr. Kilbourn, author of the Ohio
Gazetteer; this book having been of great use to me, during my journey
through this state, I wished to see the author of so useful a work,
an attention with which he appeared much pleased. Respecting the three
newspapers, I found their number great for so small a place, but I heard
that only one, which is in some measure the official paper of the state,
was much read, and had many subscribers; the other two having but fifty,
and could only maintain themselves by advertisements, &c. I met in
Columbus with a Mr. Doherty, whose acquaintance I had made in
Cincinnati, and who conducted me to see the town. There is nothing
remarkable in the public buildings above mentioned; the state
penitentiary interested me much more; it is well situated, appears to be
well arranged, and contains one hundred and fifty-two convicts; the
principal building is on a rising ground; in the rear are several yards
where the workshops of the prisoners are situated, they are clothed in a
dress part grey and part white, and sleep two together, in airy but
narrow cells, on straw mattresses; during the day they are employed in
the workshops, or in the work of the house. They have a large refectory,
where their meals, consisting of meat and vegetables are served up in
wooden plates; each prisoner is obliged to work at the trade which he
understands, and he who is acquainted with none is obliged to learn one,
being permitted to choose which he prefers. All the clothing used in the
house, as well as the cotton cloth, are made by the prisoners, who
receive no payment; there is also a wheelwright shop in operation, as
well as blacksmiths, coopers, cabinet-makers, comb-makers, saddlers, and
gunsmiths, who make very good rifles: the articles manufactured by the
coopers consist chiefly of buckets and barrels, made of white and red
cedar wood; there is a store attached to the prison, where all these
articles are exposed for sale. I understand that the prison maintains
itself, and causes but a trifling expense to the state. The favourite
solitary confinement in dark and subterraneous cells is used as a
capital punishment. A couple of prisoners who had tried to escape and
were retaken, wore an iron collar with a horn attached to it; the prison
has been in use ten years, during which time, ten men only had escaped,
nearly all of whom had been retaken: the prisoners are so well treated,
that I was assured that several of them stole again, after having served
their time out, in order to return to their prison. It is worthy of
notice that during ten years, two white females only, were committed to
this prison; the yards are surrounded by a large and high wall, where
sentries keep watch day and night with loaded muskets. We left Columbus
on the 9th of May, at eight o’clock in the morning, and rode to
Circleville, a distance of twenty-six miles. The road passes along the
left shore of the Sciota, through a woody and rather uncultivated
country, two days of rain had softened the ground considerably;
fortunately we met with very few log causeways; we forded two small
rivers which flow into the Sciota, called Big-Belly creek, and Lower
Walnut creek. We passed a small place, Bloomfield, consisting of small
frame houses, and reached Circleville towards two o’clock, P. M.
Circleville is built in one of the old Indian forts, whose origin, as
well as that of the nation which erected it, is buried in utter
darkness. The circular part immediately joins the square, and
communicates with it by means of a single outlet. The square fort has
eight outlets, and in the rear of each of them there is a little mound,
which appears to have served as traverses for the defence of the
entries; the round fort has two parallel ramparts separated by a ditch.
The quadrangular fort has but a single one, where there are no traces of
a trench; the diameter of the circular fort, taken between the exterior
ramparts, is one hundred and ninety-six rods; both of them are twenty
feet high, taken from the base of the ditch; the inner one is filled up,
and the exterior is dug from the ground; the fortress consists of clay,
the latter of sand and flintstone; the rampart of the square fort is ten
feet higher, and of clay; the length of one side of the square is
fifty-four rods; the town, containing six hundred inhabitants, is for
the greatest part built inside of the round and square fort, of which it
occupies the fourth part of the surface. In its centre is a round space,
in the midst of which stands a court-house of brick in the shape of an
octagon. Circleville is the chief town of Pickaway county. From this
circular place four principal streets run towards the north, south,
east, and west; in order to open them, the double round wall has
unfortunately been partly demolished; the selfishness of the inhabitants
goes so far that they take the clay of the inner wall and the square
fort to burn bricks of it; this little town was founded in 1812, at the
same time with Columbus, but has not increased much since; the houses
are generally of wood. The prison alone is of solid construction, built
of free-stone.
[Footnote II-26: [_Tetrao Umbellus_, L.]--TRANS.]
[Footnote II-27: These meadows are designated in America, by the
name of prairies, and extend over large tracts of land in the
western country; they are covered with high grass; trees grow very
sparingly on them, while the surrounding forests exhibit the most
beautiful trees; the soil of these prairies generally consists of
turf-moor.]
On the outside of the circular fort, on the hill opposite the
quadrangular fort, is another hill ninety feet high, that commands all
the neighbouring parts, which appear to have been a burying-ground--a
great number of human skeletons of all sizes having been found there;
they were all in a horizontal position, the heads being turned towards
the centre of the hill. With the skeletons were several stone axes, and
oval, polished black stones, having a hole in their centre, probably to
fix them on a string, to be worn as ornaments or talismans.
In the centre of the circular fort, where the court-house now stands,
there was formerly another hill, on the eastern side of which are the
remains of a semicircular pavement, made of pebble-stones, the same
which are found in the bed of the Sciota; the top of the hill is of
thirty feet diameter, and has a flight of steps leading to it; two human
skeletons were found there. At the natural level of the ground a great
number of stone arrow-heads, which were so strong that they must have
belonged to lances. A great quantity of wood ashes and hard burnt bricks
induce the belief that the bodies were burnt; there was a looking-glass
made of mica membranacea. More minute details of these antiquities,
as well as all the others which have been found in this state, are
described in Mr. Caleb Atwater’s _Archaelogia Americana_. I paid a visit
to this gentleman, who resides here; he is a great antiquarian, and
exists more in the antiquities of Ohio, than in the present world.
I spent the evening with this interesting man, and was very agreeably
entertained; he possesses a collection of objects which were found in
different mounds; it contains fragments of urns, arrow-heads of a large
size, battle-axes made of flintstone, and several human bones. Mr.
Atwater likewise possesses a very handsome collection of minerals, among
which I found some interesting petrifactions of wood and plants, in
particular, the whortleberry plant. He offered to send to the university
of Jena a collection of these petrifactions which are found near
Zanesville, in this state, and for which he desired to obtain some
German minerals. I must not omit to mention, that on the hill, outside
of the circular fort, is a small wooden house nearly destroyed by
storms, which commands a view of all the surrounding country. It had
been a house of ill fame, but being visited one night by a violent
storm, it was abandoned by its inhabitants, to the great edification of
the whole town.
The 10th of May we rode nineteen miles, from Circleville to Chillicothe,
formerly the capital of Ohio, situated on the right shore of the Sciota.
Our way led us through a handsome and very well cultivated country;
we saw fine fields, good dwelling-houses, orchards, and gardens; also
several mills, turned by the water of the Sciota, and several other
little creeks; some of these mills are at the same time fulling, flour,
and saw-mills.
The forests are chiefly of sugar maple, plane, and different kinds of
nut trees: the road was tolerably good, the weather fine and warm; there
is a covered wooden bridge which crosses the Sciota not far from
Chillicothe; this bridge runs at least five hundred paces on piers, over
a meadow which is sometimes inundated by the Sciota. We were comfortably
lodged at Watson’s hotel, in Chillicothe. This town, like Philadelphia,
lies between two rivers--the Sciota may be considered as the Delaware,
and Paint creek rivulet takes place of the Schuylkill: the streets are
large, at right angles, and without pavement, but have side-walks:
a great part of the houses are built of brick; there are several fine
stores. Over the whole prosperity and liveliness appears to reign.
Chillicothe is the chief town of Ross county; it contains a court-house,
built of freestone, which, at the time it was the seat of the state
government, was used for the senate house; the representatives met in
the building now used for the court offices: there is also in this city
a jail, and a market-house of brick. I received visits from several of
the most distinguished inhabitants, among them was a lawyer, Mr.
Leonard, Dr. Vethake and Colonel King, son of the celebrated Rufus King,
the American minister to London, and son-in-law of the former governor
of this state, Mr. Worthington: the latter lived at a country-seat two
miles from Chillicothe, where he enjoyed his rents and the revenue of
his considerable property, in the midst of an amiable family and an
agreeable old age, free from cares. His son-in-law invited us to his
father’s house; we accepted his invitation and rode in Messrs. Leonard
and Vethake’s company, towards evening, to the country-seat; our road
led us through a beautiful and well cultivated valley, near a little
Indian mound, and through a forest of beach, maple, chesnut and hickory
trees; finally we rode through handsome fields, where here and there we
saw groups of white thorn. The governor’s house is surrounded with
Lombardy poplars; it is constructed in the style of an Italian villa, of
free stone, with stone steps on the exterior, is two stories high, and
has two wings, having a court in front of the centre building containing
honeysuckles and roses: on one side of the house is a terrace with
flowers and kitchen vegetables; this garden was arranged by German
gardeners who keep it in very good order: behind the house are large
clover fields, and to the right the farm buildings. Governor Worthington
occupies himself with the raising of cattle, particularly sheep; he had
a flock of one hundred and fifty merinos. I understood that they were
numerous in the state of Ohio. Colonel King and his highly accomplished
lady, came to meet us; the governor and his lady soon appeared: he has
travelled a great deal, has been a long time in public offices, and was
for several years a member of the United States’ senate; his eldest son
was travelling in Europe, another son was in the military academy at
West Point. He has ten children, on whom he expended a great deal for
their education; the evening passed rapidly in instructive and
interesting conversation, the hospitable governor insisted on our
passing the night at his house; the house is very commodious, the
furniture plain, but testifies the good taste and easy circumstances of
the owner. I arose early next morning and took a walk in the governor’s
garden, I ascended to a platform on the roof to take a view of the
surrounding lands, but there is as yet nothing but woods covering the
greater part of the country. Fires, which were burning in some places,
were proofs, that new settlers were clearing the woods; from this
platform the governor can overlook the greater part of his property,
containing twenty-five thousand acres of land; by this means he has the
greater part of his workmen under his control; the ground consists of
low hills, and it is only towards the east in the direction of
Zanesville, that more considerable elevations are perceived. I took
breakfast with the worthy governor and his family, and found here, as at
Governor Morrow’s, that the father of the family, observed the laudable
custom of making a prayer before sitting down. After breakfast we took
leave of this respectable family, whose acquaintance I consider as one
of the most interesting I made in the United States, and returned to
town. Chillicothe contains from two to three thousand inhabitants, who
subsist chiefly by farming, raising of cattle and retail commerce; they
had also commenced establishing woollen factories, and possessed a bank;
it was formerly a branch of the United States Bank, but doing too little
business, was suppressed by the mother bank in Philadelphia. We visited
two churches, one Methodist and one Episcopalian, the former was rather
large, both of them were very plain and contained nothing worthy of
remark. We paid a visit to Mr. Hufnagel, a native of Würzburg, an
elderly man who had experienced misfortune, and who is now established
as a butcher and trader in cattle, and finds himself in easy
circumstances; he appeared to be very much delighted at my visit, and
received us very heartily in his well arranged house, situated in an
orchard. Between two and three o’clock, the stage took us to Colonel
King’s house, where we dined, in order to drive us eighteen miles to
Tarleton; we took leave of him with grateful hearts; the road ran
through a well cultivated country, which is very hilly and presents
several picturesque situations; ten miles from Chillicothe on a hill, is
a small village, Kingston, with farms of a good appearance, and several
mills. Towards sunset we reached Tarleton, a handsome little spot of
about twenty houses, and took our lodgings at a very good tavern, kept
by a Pennsylvanian German. I had lost my pocket-book, probably by one of
the hard jolts which our stage had received; it contained several papers
of importance. It was found one mile from Chillicothe, and by its
contents I was known to be the owner; a man set out in the night to
bring it to me; at midnight this man arrived in Tarleton, had me called
up, and safely returned me my pocket-book. I was so much delighted to
recover it, that I expressed my thankfulness in every way I could. On
the 12th of May, we left Tarleton at two o’clock in the morning, and
rode to New Lancaster, which is sixteen miles; we arrived between seven
and eight o’clock, and took our lodgings at Steinman’s hotel; the mail
stage which went that day to Zanesville, had only two horses and took no
passengers, I therefore resolved to stay until the following day, as it
was said there would be a stage with four horses, and I found no cause
to repent it. New Lancaster has its name from the city of Lancaster in
Pennsylvania, and was founded by Pennsylvanian Germans, who were joined
by many German emigrants, particularly Wurtembergers, and some Switzers,
all of whom were pleased with the good climate, the fertile soil, which
requires but little cultivation and manure, and above all, by the cheap
living and profitable earnings. New Lancaster is the principal town of
Fairfield county, and is handsomely situated on the side of a hill on
the Hockhocking river, not far distant from its source; it contains
nearly two thousand inhabitants, living by retail commerce, farming, and
cattle raising. Since 1822, the culture of tobacco has also been
introduced; this tobacco is called yellow, and is esteemed; I understand
that it sells very well in Holland. The streets of the town are wide and
rectangular; the court-house is a brick building; there is also a
market-house of brick, and above it a lodge for freemasons. Shortly
after my arrival, I received the visits of several of the German and
half German inhabitants, among the latter I remarked Judge Dietrich,
a native of Philadelphia, an agreeable, plain and well-informed man; he
offered to be my guide through the town, which I thankfully accepted. He
introduced me to several of the merchants, whose well-furnished stores I
visited. Such a store in America contains a great variety of articles:
all kinds of dry-goods, porcelain, earthenware, glasses, stationary,
implements of husbandry, iron wares, saddlery, and spirits; the latter
are only by wholesale; also school-books, bibles, and psalm-books.
I observed in almost all the cities in the state of Ohio, that German
translations were affixed to all the signs over the stores, in large
golden letters, which is not only a proof that a great many Germans
inhabit the state, but also that they are good customers. We saw an
English and German printing-office; the latter was under the direction
of a German, Mr. Herrman, who publishes a German newspaper under the
title of _Der Ohio Adler_,[II-28] the English printing-office likewise
publishes a paper; the type for the German paper is from the foundry in
Philadelphia, and cannot be said to be elegant; it is true there is
generally but little elegance to be observed in German type. I read in
Mr. Herrman’s office about twelve different German papers, published in
the United States; they were mostly written in a corrupted German; the
only well written one, was edited in Philadelphia, by Mr. Ritter.
[Footnote II-28: [The Ohio Eagle.]--TRANS.]
Judge Dietrich conducted me to a cloth manufactory belonging to Mr.
Risey, whose machinery is moved by the waters of the Hockhocking. It was
of recent date, and furnished cloth of middling quality; the want of a
sufficient quantity of water made it necessary to divide the manufactory
into different parts, at different situations; one was occupied by the
machines for carding wool, and some by looms; the wool was spun by
country women. We visited the county jail, a brick building, the
interior has partitions made of strong beams, separating obscure cells;
a dark and miserable hole called the dungeon, was destined for solitary
confinement; there was but a single prisoner, and for debt. Mr. Dietrich
introduced me to a Mr. Sherman, judge of the supreme court, who is one
of the most respectable inhabitants of the place. He invited me to tea,
and I met with a very agreeable society; we all took a walk to Mount
Pleasant, two miles from town, which on three sides presents steep
cliffs; this mountain is only accessible from one side, through a forest
and hollow between rocks. From the top of the mountain the town seems to
lay below your feet, and is surrounded with fenced fields; this point
being one of the highest in this hilly country, the prospect would be
very handsome if the eye could perceive any thing but woods. Next
morning some Swabian farmers came to see me; I was sitting at my
writing-table when they entered; they sat down without taking off their
hats, and conversed very sensibly; I understood from them that they were
very much pleased with the country, and that they felt conscious of
being honest and useful men. At eight o’clock we went into the mail
stage, an uncomfortable box, in which we rode thirty-six miles to
Zanesville, on a rough road with many causeways leading through a hilly
region, so that we had to stop at least forty times. It was very warm
and dusty during the day; the land was less fertile than what we had
previously seen in the state of Ohio, containing more clay and sand;
we arrived in the district of the coal and salt mines, both of which
articles are found in the vicinity of Zanesville. We passed between New
Lancaster and Zanesville the insignificant places of Rush-hill,
Somerset, Union town, and Jonathan’s creek; Rush-hill is in a pretty
situation on Rush-creek, a strong rivulet which works several mills; it
consists of about thirty houses, some of them of brick. Somerset, half
way from New Lancaster to Zanesville, contains four hundred inhabitants,
it is on an elevated situation and is the chief town of Perry county.
Jonathan’s creek has given its name to the little village situated on
both of its shores; the true name of this creek is Maxahala; it is very
convenient for mills. We met with two herds of beautiful cattle, which
had been brought from Chillicothe, and were driving to the eastern
seaports for sale; towards six o’clock we arrived in a well-cultivated
district, our road led us through orchards and neat houses; finally we
arrived at Putnam, a little place situated on the right shore of the
Muskingum, opposite Zanesville. We crossed the river by a covered wooden
bridge, resting on five stone piers. The Muskingum is one of the most
considerable rivers in the state of Ohio, it begins in the most northern
part, runs in a southerly direction, waters several counties, and
empties by a mouth twenty-five yards broad, into the Ohio at Marietta;
it is navigable from Zanesville upwards; below, the mill-dams prevent
the navigation. On account of the new canal which is to unite the Ohio
with Lake Erie, on which they were working, though slowly, for want of
funds, the navigation on this river will cease.
In Zanesville we took good lodgings at Hughes’ hotel; there must be a
great number of travellers, as in the principal street we could count
seven other taverns. Zanesville contains three thousand inhabitants: its
streets are large and straight, a great number of brick houses, upwards
of twenty stores, two printing-offices, and two glass-houses, where
common window-glass and bottles are manufactured, which are well paid
for in the vicinity; this town has been for some time the chief town of
the state of Ohio, and is now the principal place of Muskingum county;
the court-house is a large brick building, in front of it was erected a
triumphal arch in honour of General La Fayette, but he did not pass
here. We returned in the evening over the bridge to Putnam, to deliver
letters to Mr. Ebenezer Buckingham. On this occasion I found that the
length of this bridge was about two hundred and seventy-seven ordinary
paces; it is divided in two parts, the wagons keeping the right side.
Putnam consists of a single street, running along the river, behind
which is a rocky elevation; the street afterwards forms an angle,
leaving the river and looses itself in a picturesque valley between
fields and orchards. This place has six hundred inhabitants, a great
many brick houses, and presents a flourishing appearance. Mr. Buckingham
is one of the most respectable inhabitants, and has a large store in
which he keeps all articles that may be required here; he received us in
his store, and gave us much information relative to Zanesville, Putnam
and its vicinity; the ground is not so fertile here as in other parts of
the state, but kind Providence has indemnified them in some measure with
salt, and coal-mines; the salt springs were previously known to the
Indians, but not used by them. When the country became inhabited by a
white population, they bored to the depth of two hundred feet and found
abundant salt springs, some of them were deeper; the openings being made
larger, walled cisterns were fixed to collect the running water. The
salt is boiled in large kettles, after which it is made to run over flat
reservoirs, where it is cooled, and the salt separated; this is the same
method which is followed in England, and which I had seen in the salt
works of Northwich; having heard this description, and the springs being
four miles distant, I gave up the idea of visiting them. A great many
petrifactions and impressions of plants are found here, some of which I
had seen at Mr. Atwater’s, in Circleville.
On the next day, Mr. Buckingham came for me, to introduce me to his
family, consisting of his wife and three daughters, very good children;
the eldest was nine years old, his only son was a cadet in the military
school at West Point. The house in which he resides at Putnam is at some
distance from his store, is two stories high, built of brick with a
stone porch; in front of the house is a space planted with trees and
flowers separated from the street by an iron railing with large stone
posts. In the rear of the house is a kitchen garden and orchard; the
house is very convenient and furnished with taste and well-directed
luxury. All this was interesting to me, because I heard from Mr.
Buckingham that twenty-nine years since, he emigrated as a poor man from
the state of New York to that wild country, and on the spot where his
property now stands he had himself felled the trees, and built a
log-house in which he lived several years; he owes his welfare to his
integrity, his industry, and economy. In his business, he informed me
money was a rare thing, which he seldom saw; the greatest number of
persons who buy articles from his store, pay for them in corn, beef,
lard, corn meal, vegetables, fruits, &c. This is, however, the case with
most of the stores in the western states, and give the merchants
considerable trouble to sell them. I accompanied Mr. Buckingham and
family to the Presbyterian church in Zanesville, a large brick building,
which was very full and very warm. I understood very little of the
sermon; the singing was excellent, without organ or any musical
accompaniment. In the centre of the church was a long table, as a
greater part of the congregation were communicants. Mr. Buckingham and
family partook of this religious rite. I took a walk through the town,
and visited a second bridge crossing the Muskingum, situated above the
first; this bridge is more ancient than the first, and likewise rests on
five stone piers; it is covered and made of wood, but badly constructed
and in a decayed condition. It does not run in a straight line, but
forms an obtuse angle, in order to reach a point of land which is
produced by the union of the Licking with the Muskingum, from this angle
of the bridge, another begins, which goes towards the point of land;
this is not roofed; this bridge leads to the Newark road, meanwhile the
covered branch is directed to the New Lancaster road. Since the
construction of the better bridge below, the older one is very little
used. The prospect from it over the Muskingum and Licking is very
handsome. Both of them have, not far from their junction, high dams
forming waterfalls, and on all the four shores mills for flour, oil and
sawing. The Licking begins at the junction of three little rivers in
Licking county, and has some falls above, where it unites with the
Muskingum, which have been used for mills. At two o’clock we returned to
our mail stage; the weather being very hot, we rode but twelve miles, to
an insulated house called Dugan’s tavern, where we arrived between five
and six o’clock, and met with tolerably good quarters. The country is
woody and very hilly, the road was so bad that we had to stop
frequently, and for this reason I again went the greatest part of the
road on foot, in spite of the heat and dust; the next day we travelled
in the same manner to Fairview, forty-eight miles distant, along a very
hilly country, bad road, rocks, causeways, and so many rapid
declivities, that we had to stop thirty times. We passed through Salt
creek, Cambridge, Washington, and Frankfort. Salt creek lies on a small
river of the same name, over which there is a bridge. Cambridge is a
flourishing place of about seventy houses, on a height situated on
Will’s creek, which is crossed by a plain wooden bridge of one hundred
and seventy-five yards, which passes over a low meadow; this town is the
chief place in Gurnsey county, and contains a court-house and several
stores. We arrived on a court day, and the tavern was filled with
lawyers. Will’s creek runs through many windings, about one hundred and
fifty miles, and flows into the Muskingum; it is in some seasons
navigable to Cambridge, in boats of seventy-five feet length. Washington
and Frankfort are small places, of which nothing can be said. On the
road, especially near dwelling houses, were several large open buildings
constructed with beams to dry the yellow tobacco. The country is mostly
covered with woods. The ground consists of yellow and red clay, &c.
Fairview, which we reached towards five o’clock in the evening, is a
little place containing about twenty houses, most of them frame; it is
situated on an elevation commanding an extensive prospect, whence it
derives its name. We met here with part of the great national road which
leads from Washington city to Wheeling, and is to be continued as far as
St. Louis. It is a turnpike road, dug out six inches deep, and is
covered six inches thick with small stones, having a ditch on each side;
they were working slowly at it: Fairview is now at the end of the road.
On the 16th of May we left Fairview, in a beautiful starlight and warm
night, and continued our journey sixty miles to Washington in
Pennsylvania. The country was hilly. The two last villages we passed in
the state of Ohio, were Morristown and St. Clairsville. Both places are
small, but well situated on elevations, and surrounded with fields and
orchards. St. Clairsville is the chief town of Bellmont county; it
contains a court-house, jail, market-house, and printing-office, which
issues a newspaper; also several stores. The houses are merely of wood.
The nearer we approached to the Ohio, the handsomer was the country.
Finally, we came to a romantic dale, through which flows in a serpentine
direction a rivulet called Indian Wheeling, which joins the Ohio
opposite Wheeling. We frequently rode along the new national turnpike
road, on which they were working rapidly. This road carefully avoids the
numerous hills, cuts through several of them, and has, where it is
requisite, solid stone bridges. It was said that it would be finished in
the autumn. When arrived at the Ohio, which runs between hilly shores,
partly covered with woods, partly cultivated, twenty-nine miles from
Fairview, we crossed over the river and arrived at a considerable woody
island, and crossed the left arm in a horse-boat, which took us to
Wheeling, a town containing two thousand inhabitants, built on a terrace
along a steep and high hill. Thus we left the state of Ohio, an
important and daily increasing state, which, with the exception of the
bad roads, had pleased me very much. We entered the state of Virginia,
of which a part runs like a wedge between the states of Pennsylvania and
Ohio. In Wheeling we took the stage on the great national road to
Washington in Pennsylvania, which is twenty-nine miles distant. We soon
ascended a high mountain, from the top of which we could discover on one
side the beautiful valley of the Ohio, the woody mountains bordering the
valley, and the town of Wheeling with its orchards and gardens on the
other; a deep valley along which the Wheeling creek runs in a
picturesque manner. The national road gradually descends this steep
hill, forming the western border of the valley, continues in it and goes
over a handsome stone bridge across Wheeling creek. A neighbouring
family who profited considerably by the construction of the national
road, have erected at the bridge a monument in honour of the secretary
of state, (H. Clay,) who was the chief promoter of it in congress. This
monument consists, as far as I could perceive in my hurry, of a statue
of liberty, coarsely sculptured in sandstone, placed on a clumsy
pedestal ornamented with inscriptions and bas relief. Monuments erected
to living persons have always something suspicious; they generally
exhibit that vile adulation to which the Dutch give a characteristic
name.[II-29] I was greatly surprised to find such sentiments in this
country, and to see them tolerated. The national road, which is finished
seven years ago, requires considerable repairs, or at least to be kept
in better order. Since it has been finished nothing has been done to it.
The tracks are deep, and the road is very rough. The stage we rode in
was of the description made in the north-eastern states, which are the
best and most convenient I had met with since October last year. We
changed horses twice in West Alexandria and Claysville. We passed
several little places through a well cultivated country, over some stone
bridges of sumptuous construction. Fifteen miles from Wheeling we left
the state of Virginia, and entered the state of Pennsylvania partly
known to me, and which I now intended to cross from its western to its
eastern extremity. We arrived at Washington at ten o’clock at night, and
left there at one o’clock on the morning of the 17th of May, the weather
being cloudy. Abandoning the national road, we turned to the left
towards Pittsburgh, twenty-five miles from Washington. To Cannonsburg,
a distance of seven miles, the road was tolerably good, but after this
it became bad, and I was compelled, in conformity to my old custom,
to walk a great part of the way.
[Footnote II-29: Knopendraayerye.]
To the cloudy night succeeded a fine warm morning, and a picturesque
valley where handsome houses and mills cheered the spirits. The
mountains are filled with coal and several openings penetrating into
them, prove that this important fuel is not neglected. We finally came
to the left shore of the Ohio, and before us was Pittsburgh covered by a
black cloud of smoke. This city is situated at the confluence of the
Alleghany and Monongahela; both these rivers after their union form the
majestic Ohio. The water of the Monongahela is much more muddy than that
of the Alleghany, and both rivers are distinguished separately at a
great distance. The situation of Pittsburgh, as well as the Ohio valley,
resemble in some measure the environs of Liege, on the Meuse, with the
exception that the mountains of the Meuse are higher than these. We
passed through a little village called Birmingham, where are salt-works,
a glass-house, and iron-works, and arrived at the bridge which crosses
the Monongahela. This bridge is marked on the map as projected, but has
been finished for six or seven years. It is of wood resting on five
stone piers, and consists of six arches of very solid construction,
being covered and divided in two parts. A fine of fifteen dollars is
exacted of those who ride on horseback or carriage faster than a walk;
there are also foot-walks. Pittsburgh contains fifteen thousand
inhabitants--it has not a pleasing appearance, containing a great number
of wooden buildings, all of a smoky colour from the smoke continually
ascending from the numerous manufactories. Pittsburgh reminds you of an
English city, and therefore is called the American Birmingham. It was
nine o’clock, A. M. when we arrived, and took lodgings at the
Mansion-house, kept by Colonel Ramsay, a good hotel, and a very polite
landlord.