CHAPTER XIX.

_Journey to New Orleans, and Residence in that City._

On the 18th of January, we embarked in the schooner Emblem, whose cabin

was proportioned to her tonnage, (which was but fifty tons,) but

comfortably high, and well ornamented. The sides were of mahogany and

maple; on each side were two state-rooms, with two births each; the back

part of the cabin, being something higher than the forward part,

contained a birth on each side. Of these, the starboard was occupied by

Mr. Bowdoin, the other by myself.

The shores of Mobile Bay, which is very wide, are low and overgrown with

wood, before us lay a long island, called Isle Dauphine, by the

unfortunate Delasalle, who discovered it. Mobile point lies to the left,

where, after sunset, we beheld the light in the light-house. There stood

on this point in the late war a small fort, called Fort Bowyer, which

the present Lieutenant-Colonel, then Major Lawrence, gallantly defended,

with a garrison of one hundred and thirty men, against eight hundred

disembarked English sailors and Seminole Indians, under Major Nichols.

The assailants were defeated, after their ordnance was dismounted, with

considerable loss, and the English corvette Hermes, which covered the

attack, was blown up by the well-directed fire of the fort. In February,

1815, this brave officer found himself obliged to yield to superior

force, and to capitulate to Admiral Cockburn, who was on his return from

the unsuccessful expedition to New Orleans. This was the last act of

hostility that occurred during that war. Fort Bowyer is since

demolished, and in its stead a more extensive fortress is erecting,

which we would willingly have inspected, had the wind been more

favourable, and brought us there earlier. We steered between Mobile

Point and Dauphin Island, so as to reach the Mexican gulf, and turning

then to the right, southward of the Sandy Islands, which laid along the

coast, sailed towards Lake Borgne. Scarcely were we at sea, when a

strong wind rose from the west, which blew directly against us. We

struggled nearly the whole night to beat to windward, but in vain. The

wind changed to a gale, with rain, thunder, and lightning. The

main-topmast was carried away, and fell on deck. The mate was injured by

the helm striking him in the side, and was for a time unfit for duty. On

account of the great bustle on deck, the passengers could hardly close

an eye all night. The motion of the vessel was violent, on account of

her small size. A falling block broke out several of the panes in the

sky-light of the cabin, so that the rain was admitted, and the furniture

was tossed about by the rolling.

On the morning of the 19th of January, we were driven back to the strait

between Dauphin Island and Mobile Point, and the anchor was dropt to

prevent farther drifting. I was sea-sick, but had the consolation that

several passengers shared my misfortune. The whole day continued

disagreeable, cold, and cloudy. As we lay not far from Dauphin Island,

several of our company went on shore, and brought back a few thrushes

which they had shot. I was too unwell to feel any desire of visiting

this inhospitable island, a mere strip of sand, bearing nothing but

everlasting pines. Upon it, stands some remains of an old entrenchment

and barrack. Besides the custom-house officers, only three families live

on the whole island. We saw the light-house, and the houses at Mobile

Point, not far from us. I wished to have gone there to see the

fortification lately commenced, but it was too far to go on a rough sea

in a skiff.

On the 20th of January, the wind was more favourable; it blew from the

north-east, and dispersed the clouds, and we set sail. After several

delays, caused by striking on sand-banks, we proceeded with a favourable

wind, passed Dauphin Island and the islands Petit Bois, Massacre, Horn,

and Ship Island.

These islands consist of high sand-hills, some of them covered with

pine, and remind one strongly of the coasts of Holland and Flanders.

Behind Horn and Massacre Islands lies a bay, which is called Pascagoula,

from a river rising in the state of Mississippi, and emptying here into

the sea. Ship Island is about nine miles long, and it was here that the

English fleet which transported the troops sent on the expedition

against New Orleans, remained during the months of December and January,

1814-15. At a considerable distance from us to the left, were some

scattered islands, called Les Malheureux. Behind these were the islands

De la Chandeleur, and still farther La Clef du Francmaçon. Afterwards we

passed a muddy shallow, upon which, luckily, we did not stick fast, and

arrived in the gulf Lac Borgne, which connects itself with Lake

Ponchartrain, lying back of it, by two communications, each above a mile

broad; of which one is called Chef Menteur, and the other the Rigolets.

Both are guarded by forts, the first by the fort of Chef Menteur, the

other by that of the Petites Coquilles, so called because it is built on

a foundation of muscle shells, and its walls are composed of a cement of

the same. We took this last direction, and passed the Rigolets in the

night, with a fair wind. Night had already fallen when we reached Lake

Borgne. After we had passed the Rigolets, we arrived in Lake

Ponchartrain, then turned left from the light-house of Fort St. John,

which protects the entrance of the bayou of the same name, leading to

New Orleans.

I awoke on the 21st of January, as we entered the bayou St. John. This

water is so broad, that we could not see the northern shore. We remained

at the entrance one hour, to give the sailors a short rest, who had

worked the whole night, and whose duty it was now to tow the vessel to

the city, six miles distant. This fort, which has lost its importance

since the erection of Chef Menteur, and Petites Coquilles, is abandoned,

and a tavern is now building in its place. It lies about five hundred

paces distant from the sea, but on account of the marshy banks cannot be

thence attacked without great difficulty. The bank is covered with thick

beams, to make it hold firm, which covering in this hot and damp climate

perishes very quickly. The causeway which runs along the bayou, is of

made earth on a foundation of timber. Behind the fort is a public house,

called Ponchartrain Hotel, which is much frequented by persons from the

city during summer. I recognized the darling amusements of the

inhabitants, in a pharo and roulette table.

As the passage hence to the city is very tedious in stages, we proposed

to hire a carriage, but there was none to be found; six dollars was

asked for a boat; we therefore, decided to go on foot. The Colonel, Mr.

Huygens, Mr. Egbert, Mr. Chew, and myself made up this walking party.

The morning was beautiful spring weather; we passed through a shocking

marshy country, along the right side of the bayou. The woods were

hanging full of the hateful Spanish moss, and a number of palmettoes

were the only variety afforded. The causeway was very muddy; there were

good wooden bridges over little ditches, which conveyed the water from

the surrounding marshes into the bayou.

After we had proceeded three miles in this manner, we came into a

cultivated district, passed a sort of gate, and found ourselves quite in

another world. Plantations, with handsome buildings, followed in quick

succession; noble live oaks, which had been trimmed to regular shapes,

young orange trees, pride of China, and other tropical trees and bushes,

along the road. Several inns and public gardens were exhibited, for a

population that willingly seeks amusement. We noticed several

mansion-houses, ornamented with columns, piazzas, and covered galleries;

some of these were of ancient style in building. It was naturally

agreeable to me, after wandering a long time in mere wildernesses, once

more to come into a long civilized country. We saw from afar, the white

spires of the cathedral of New Orleans, also the masts of the ships

lying in the Mississippi. The bayou unites itself, three miles from this

city, with a canal leading thither, which we passed upon a turning

bridge, to strike into the city by a nearer way.

This road carried us between well-built mansions, and over the streets

were hung reflecting lamps. The first view of the city, as we reached,

without knowing it, was really not handsome; for we came into the oldest

section, which consisted only of little one-story houses, with mud

walls, and wide projecting roofs. On the whole, the streets are

regularly laid out, part parallel with the river, the rest perpendicular

to it. The ancient town was surrounded by a wall, which is destroyed, in

its room there is a boulevard laid out, called Rue de Remparts. Next to

the old town below, lies the suburb Marigny, and above, that of St.

Mary; then begins the most elegant part of the city.

Before we searched for lodgings, we looked about a little through the

city, and went first to the Mississippi, to pay our homage to this

“father of rivers.” It is about half a mile wide, and must be above

eighty fathoms deep; it is separated from the city by a compost of

muscle shells. This causeway defends it from inundations. There are no

wharves, they cannot be fixed, as the river would sweep them away. The

ships lay four and five deep, in tiers along the bank, as in the Thames,

at London. Below them, were ten very large steam-boats, employed in the

river trade. In a line with the bank stood houses, which were two or

three stories high, and built of brick, also ancient massive Spanish

houses, known by their heavy, solid style, and mostly white. We passed

by a square, of which the river formed one side, opposite stood the

cathedral, and on each side of it, a massive public edifice, with

arcades. Along the bank stood the market-houses, built of brick,

modelled after the Propylæa, in Athens, and divided into separate

blocks. We saw in these, fine pine-apples, oranges, bananas,

peccan-nuts, cocoa-nuts, and vegetables of different descriptions; also

several shops, in which coffee and oysters were sold. The black

population appeared very large; we were informed, that above one-half of

the inhabitants, forty-five thousand in number, were of the darker

colour. The custom-house on the Levée, is a pretty building.

We met a merchant, Mr. Ogden, partner of Mr. William Nott, to whose

house I had letters, who had the politeness to take charge of us, and

assist us in our search for lodgings. We obtained tolerable quarters in

the boarding house of Madame Herries, Rue de Chartres. The first person

I encountered in this house, was Count Vidua, with whom I had become

acquainted in New York, and who since had travelled through Canada, the

western country, and down the Ohio and Mississippi.

My first excursion was to visit Mr. Grymes, who here inhabits a large,

massive, and splendidly furnished house. I found only Mrs. Grymes at

home, who after an exceedingly fatiguing journey arrived here, and in

fourteen days after had given birth to a fine son. I found two elegantly

arranged rooms prepared for me, but I did not accept this hospitable

invitation. After some time Mr. Grymes came home, and accompanied me

back to my lodgings. As our schooner had not yet arrived, we went to

meet it and found it in the canal, a mile and a half from town, where

two cotton boats blocked up the way. We had our baggage put into the

skiff, and came with it into the basin, where the canal terminates.

In the evening we paid our visit to the governor of the state of

Louisiana, Mr. Johnson, but did not find him at home. After this we went

to several coffee-houses, where the lower class amused themselves,

hearing a workman singing in Spanish, which he accompanied with the

guitar. Mr. Grymes took me to the masked ball, which is held every

evening during the carnival at the French theatre. The saloon in which

they danced, was quite long, well planned, and adorned with large

mirrors. Round it were three rows of benches amphitheatrically arranged.

There were few masks, only a few dominos, none in character. Cotillions

and waltzes were the dances performed. The dress of the ladies I

observed to be very elegant, but understood that most of those dancing

did not belong to the better class of society. There were several

adjoining rooms open, in which there is a supper when subscription balls

are given. In the ground floor of the building are rooms, in which pharo

and roulette are played. These places were obscure, and resembled

caverns: the company playing there appeared from their dress, not to be

of the best description.

Next day, we made new acquaintances, and renewed some old ones.

I remained in this city several weeks, for I was obliged to give up my

plan of visiting Mexico, as no stranger was allowed to go to that

country who was not a subject of such states as had recognized the new

government. There were too many obstacles in my way, and therefore I

determined to wait in New Orleans for the mild season, and then to

ascend the Mississippi. The result was an extensive acquaintance,

a succession of visits, a certain conformity in living, from which one

cannot refrain yielding to in a city. No day passed over this winter

which did not produce something pleasant or interesting, each day

however, was nearly the same as its predecessors. Dinners, evening

parties, plays, masquerades, and other amusements followed close on each

other, and were interrupted only by the little circumstances which

accompany life in this hemisphere, as well as in the other.

The cathedral in New Orleans is built in a dull and heavy style of

architecture externally, with a gable on which a tower and two lateral

cupolas are erected. The façade is so confused, that I cannot pretend to

describe it. Within, the church resembles a village church in Flanders.

The ceiling is of wood, the pillars which support it, and divide the

nave into three aisles, are heavy, made of wood, covered with plaster:

as well as the walls, they are constructed without taste. The three

altars are distinguished by no remarkable ornament. Upon one of the side

altars stands an ugly wax image of the virgin and child. Near the great

altar is a throne for the bishop. On Sundays and holy-days, this

cathedral is visited by the beau monde; except on these occasions,

I found that most of the worshippers consisted only of blacks, and

coloured people, the chief part of them females.

The sinking of the earth of the Levée is guarded against in a peculiar

way. In Holland piles are driven in along the water for this purpose,

and held together by wattling. After the dam is raised up, there are

palisades of the same kind placed behind each other. Here the twigs of

the palmetto are inserted in the ground close together, and their

fan-like leaves form a wall, which prevents the earth from rolling down.

There are only two streets paved in the city; but all have brick

side-walks. The paving stones are brought as ballast by the ships from

the northern states, and sell here very high. Several side-walks are

also laid with broad flag stones. In the carriage way of the streets

there is a prodigious quantity of mud. After a rain it is difficult even

for a carriage to pass; the walkers who wish to go from one side to the

other, have a severe inconvenience before them; either they must make a

long digression, to find some stones that are placed in the abyss, for

the benefit of jumping over, or if they undertake to wade through, run a

risk of sticking fast.

Sunday is not observed with the puritanic strictness in New Orleans,

that it is in the north. The shops are open, and there is singing and

guitar-playing in the streets. In New York, or Philadelphia, such

proceedings would be regarded as outrageously indecent. On a Sunday we

went for the first time, to the French theatre, in which a play was

performed every Sunday and Thursday. The piece for this night, was the

tragedy of Regulus, and two vaudevilles. The dramatic corps was merely

tolerable, such as those of the small French provincial towns,[II-3]

where they never presume to present tragedies, or comedies of the

highest class. “Regulus” was murdered; Mr. Marchand and Madame Clozel,

whose husband performed the comic parts very well in the vaudevilles,

alone distinguished themselves. The saloon is not very large, but well

ornamented; below is the pit and parquet, a row of boxes each for four

persons, and before them a balcony. The boxes are not divided by walls,

but only separated by a low partition, so that the ladies can exhibit

themselves conveniently. Over the first row of boxes is a second, to

which the free colored people resort, who are not admitted to any other

part of the theatre, and above this row is the gallery, in which slaves

may go, with the permission of their masters. Behind the boxes is a

lobby, where the gentlemen who do not wish to sit in a box, stand, or

walk about, where they can see over the boxes. The theatre was less

attended, than we had supposed it would be; and it was said, that the

great shock felt in the commercial world, on account of the bankruptcy

of three of the most distinguished houses, in consequence of unfortunate

speculations in cotton, and the failures in Liverpool, was the cause of

this desertion.

[Footnote II-3: [This is the same corps which the Philadelphians

extol so highly, that one might almost suppose them equal to the

artists of the _Theatre Français_, if, unfortunately, one visit to

the theatre, did not completely dispel the illusion!]--TRANS.]

The garrison consists of two companies of infantry, of the first and

fourth regiments. This has been here since the last insurrection of the

negroes, and has been continued, to overawe them. In case of a serious

alarm, this would prove but of little service! and what security is

there against such an alarm? In Chartres street, where we dwelt, there

were two establishments, which constantly revolted my feelings, to wit:

shops in which negroes were purchased and sold. These unfortunate

beings, of both sexes, stood or sat the whole day, in these shops, or in

front of them, to exhibit themselves, and wait for purchasers. The

abomination is shocking, and the barbarity and indifference, produced by

the custom in white men, is indescribable.[II-4]

[Footnote II-4: Among the slave traders, a Hollander from

Amsterdam, disgusted me particularly, his name was Jacobs. He had

the most vulgar and sinister countenance imaginable, was

constantly drunk, and treated the wretched negroes in the most

brutal manner; he was, however, severely beaten by these miserable

beings, driven to despair.[II-4a]]

[Footnote II-4a: The virtuous indignation of the Duke, at

these horrible consequences of slavery, is such as every man,

not hardened by long familiarity with such scenes, must feel;

those to whom they are daily presented regard them with calm

indifference, or even attempt to argue in favour of their

continuance and harmlessness. It is not as generally known, as

it should be, that the _slave trade_ is carried on, almost as

vigorously now, as ever it was, and by citizens of almost

every nation; not in the least excepting Americans. The slave

vessels sail principally from Havanna and St. Thomas, and land

their cargoes on the island of Puerto Rico, and elsewhere,

whither purchasers and agents resort, when such an arrival

occurs. Two schooners, with large cargoes, arrived in Puerto

Rico in February last, and two brigs were daily expected. It

is said in the West Indies, that all ships of war, of powers

owning West India Colonies, _connive_ at the trade, which is

fully supported by facts; as French, Danish, and English

cruisers were in the vicinity, when the above mentioned

cargoes arrived. The idea of cruising off the coast of Africa,

to prevent the trade, is ridiculed by the slave dealers, with

one of whom the writer of this note conversed. If the

American, or any other government _really wished_ to put an

end to this trade, it could be very effectually accomplished,

by sending small armed vessels to intercept the slave traders

near their places of landing cargoes, which are not very

numerous. It is also said, in the West Indies, that the

Havanna traders still contrive to introduce Africans into the

southern part of the United States; of the truth or falsehood

of this, we know nothing. The slave vessels are generally

Baltimore clipper brigs, and schooners, completely armed and

very fast sailers. Two of them sailed on this execrable trade

in February last, from a part visited by the writer. --_Trans._]

There were subscription balls given in New Orleans, to which the

managers had the politeness to invite us. These balls took place twice a

week, Tuesdays and Fridays, at the French theatre, where the masquerade

had been, which I mentioned before. None but good society were admitted

to these subscription balls; the first that we attended was not crowded,

however, the generality of the ladies present were very pretty, and had

a very genteel French air. The dress was extremely elegant, and after

the latest Paris fashion. The ladies danced, upon the whole,

excellently, and did great honour to their French teachers. Dancing, and

some instruction in music, is almost the whole education of the female

creoles.

Most of the gentlemen here are far behind the ladies in elegance. They

did not remain long at the ball, but hasted away to the quadroon ball,

so called, where they amused themselves more, and were more at their

ease. This was the reason why there were more ladies than gentlemen

present at the ball, and that many were obliged to form “tapestry.” When

a lady is left sitting, she is said to be “bredouille.” Two cotillions

and a waltz, are danced in succession, and there is hardly an interval

of two or three minutes between the dances. The music was performed by

negroes and coloured people, and was pretty good. The governor was also

at the ball, and introduced me to several gentlemen, among others,

a Frenchman, General Garrigues de Flaugeac, who, having emigrated here

from St. Domingo, had married, and given the world some very handsome

daughters. Several of the French families here settled, and indeed, the

most respectable, were emigrants from that island, who wait for the

indemnification due to them, but without any great hopes of receiving

it.

Colonel Wool inspected the two companies of the first and fourth

regiments, under Major Twiggs stationed here; both together made at the

most, eighty men under arms. The inspection took place before the

Cathedral. I admired the good order and great propriety of these

companies, as well as their uniformity of march and dressing, which I

had no opportunity to observe before, in the troops of the United

States. There was indeed many things to be wished for; as for example,

the coats of the men did not fit, and many were too short; the grey

cloth pantaloons were of different shades, and much too short; no

bayonet sheaths, nor gun straps; the belt intended for the bayonet

sheath over that of the cartridge box: the privates had wooden flints in

their guns, and none in their cartridge boxes, also no spare flints,

files, screwdrivers, nor oil flasks. From the false maxim, that the

second rank, if they are shorter men, cannot fire over the front, the

lesser men are ranged in the first, and the taller in the second rank

through the whole army of the United States, and this produces a great

eye-sore. There was some manual exercise, and manœuvres in battalion

training: all good. The soldiers were mostly young, handsome and strong

men, well fed and healthy looking natives of the western states; there

were some Germans and Irish among them. The Irish, however, since their

conduct is often in nowise commendable, are no longer admitted. Governor

Johnson remained during the review, which lasted above an hour or more;

there were also several members of the legislature now assembling,

present. I formed an acquaintance here with General La Coste, who

formerly had been engaged in the Spanish service, and at present

commanded a division of the Louisiana militia. Colonel Croghan also

attended the review.[II-5]

[Footnote II-5: Colonel CROGHAN was one of the most distinguished

officers of the American army. In the last war, he defended a

miserable stockade, (Fort Stephenson) on Lake Erie, against a

force eight times greater than his own, which had artillery, and

drove it back. After the peace, he was appointed Post Master of

New Orleans, and during my stay in this city, he had entered again

into the army, and held the post of second Inspector-General.]

When the review was over, the governor showed me the two extensive

buildings, joining the Cathedral, with arcades, as before-mentioned. One

of them is devoted to the use of the several courts of justice, and the

other is the City Hall. In the first, the United States court was

holding its sessions, and as it was rather cold, the judge had removed

himself to the fire-place, there to have the business transacted before

him. The suit in controversy related to the sale of a negro. The buyer

had purchased him as a slave for life; after the bargain had been

concluded, and payment made, he discovered, by the declaration of his

former master, the seller, that at a certain period he was to be free.

I could not remain long enough in the court, to wait for the decision.

We passed then to the City Hall. In the lower story, is the guard-house

of the city guard, besides a prison[II-6] for runaways, or negroes

punished by order of their masters, who are here incarcerated, and

employed in all servile labours for the city; they are termed _negres

marrons_. The masters receive a daily recompense of twenty-five cents

for each imprisoned negro. Near the guard-house stands a small piece of

ordnance, from which the signal tattoo is fired. After this shot, no

negro can tread the streets without a pass.[II-7] The upper stories of

this building contains the offices and court halls of the magistrates.

Part of them were ornamented very richly, as these chambers served as

quarters for General La Fayette, who was here in the month of April

last. Before the chambers, the whole length of the building, ran a

gallery with very large windows, which being raised in summer, change

the gallery into an airy balcony: an arrangement which I had remarked to

exist also in the other building, where the courts of justice sat.

[Footnote II-6: [Commonly known in New Orleans by the name of the

Calaboose, (from Calabozo, the Spanish term for a vaulted

dungeon,) and a great terror to evil-doers in that city; the

efficiency of the police of which can never be enough

admired.]--TRANS.]

[Footnote II-7: I have already made some remarks with regard to

the apprehension of negroes in Charleston. If a person wishes here

to have a house-negro, male or female, chastised, they are sent

with a note, in which the number of lashes which the bearer is to

receive are specified, with a quarter of a dollar; he or she is

lodged in the slave prison. Here the slave receives the

punishment, and a certificate, which he must carry to his master.

The maximum of lashes is thirty-nine, according to the Mosaic law.

The species of punishment is specified as in Charleston, or “_aux

quatre piquets_.” In this last case, the poor wretch is pressed

out flat on his face upon the earth, and his hands and feet bound

to four posts. In this posture he receives his flogging. This

frightful method of chastisement, is principally in use on the

plantations; and cruel discipline is there chiefly practised.

Whoever wishes to punish a house servant severely, either hires or

sells him to work on the plantations.]

Hence the governor next conducted me to the old Spanish government

house, in which the senators and representatives of the state of

Louisiana were now assembled. The building is ancient and crazy,

otherwise situated in a handsome spot on the levée, surrounded by a

balcony. There is nothing more done for the repair of this building, as

in a few years the legislature will be removed to Donaldsonville. The

reason given for this is, that many members of the legislature are plain

people, who feel embarrassed in New Orleans, and hope to be more at

their ease in Donaldsonville. The office of the governor is in the yard,

in a small house, where the secretary of the Spanish governor formerly

had his office.

In a magazine belonging to the state, there are still several articles

which belonged to the former navy-yard, and which, hereafter, are to be

sent to Pensacola. Among these, I remarked brass and iron cannon of

various calibres, and from different countries, English, Spanish, and

French. There were some ancient ones among the French, with beautiful

ornaments and inscriptions. On one was, “_ultima ratio regum_;” on

others, the darling “_liberté, egalité_.” These pieces were found in the

trifling fortifications that formerly surrounded the city, when the

United States took possession of Louisiana, in 1803.

During the last of January, it rained uncommonly hard and steady. The

streets became bottomless: holes formed in them, where carriages and

carts were in constant peril of upsetting. At first it was cold; while

the rain continued, there followed such an oppressive heat, that it was

feared an earthquake was about to take place: it thundered and lightened

also very heavily.

At the masked balls, each paid a dollar for admission. As I visited it

for the second time, I observed, however, many present by free tickets,

and I was told that the company was very much mixed. The unmasked ladies

belonging to good society, sat in the recesses of the windows, which

were higher than the saloon, and furnished with galleries. There were

some masks in character, but none worthy of remark. Two quarrels took

place, which commenced in the ball-room with blows, and terminated in

the vestibule, with pocket-pistols and kicking, without any interruption

from the police.

On the same evening, what was called a quadroon ball took place.

A quadroon is the child of a mestize mother and a white father, as a

mestize is the child of a mulatto mother and a white father. The

quadroons are almost entirely white: from their skin no one would detect

their origin; nay many of them have as fair a complexion as many of the

haughty creole females. Such of them as frequent these balls are free.

Formerly they were known by their black hair and eyes, but at present

there are completely fair quadroon males and females. Still, however,

the strongest prejudice reigns against them on account of their black

blood, and the white ladies maintain, or affect to maintain, the most

violent aversion towards them. Marriage between the white and coloured

population is forbidden by the law of the state. As the quadroons on

their part regard the negroes and mulattoes with contempt, and will not

mix with them, so nothing remains for them but to be the friends, as it

is termed, of the white men. The female quadroon looks upon such an

engagement as a matrimonial contract, though it goes no farther than a

formal contract by which the “friend” engages to pay the father or

mother of the quadroon a specified sum. The quadroons both assume the

name of their friends, and as I am assured preserve this engagement with

as much fidelity as ladies espoused at the altar. Several of these girls

have inherited property from their fathers or friends, and possess

handsome fortunes. Notwithstanding this, their situation is always very

humiliating. They cannot drive through the streets in a carriage, and

their “friends” are forced to bring them in their own conveyances after

dark to the ball: they dare not sit in the presence of white ladies, and

cannot enter their apartments without especial permission. The whites

have the privilege to procure these unfortunate creatures a whipping

like that inflicted on slaves, upon an accusation, proved by two

witnesses. Several of these females have enjoyed the benefits of as

careful an education as most of the whites; they conduct themselves

ordinarily with more propriety and decorum, and confer more happiness on

their “friends,” than many of the white ladies to their married lords.

Still, the white ladies constantly speak with the greatest contempt, and

even with animosity, of these unhappy and oppressed beings. The

strongest language of high nobility in the monarchies of the old world,

cannot be more haughty, overweening or contemptuous towards their fellow

creatures, than the expressions of the creole females with regard to the

quadroons, in one of the much vaunted states of the free Union. In fact,

such comparison strikes the mind of a thinking being very singularly!

Many wealthy fathers, on account of the existing prejudices send

daughters of this description to France, where these girls with a good

education and property, find no difficulty in forming a legitimate

establishment. At the quadroon ball, only coloured ladies are admitted,

the men of that caste, be it understood, are shut out by the white

gentlemen. To take away all semblance of vulgarity, the price of

admission is fixed at two dollars, so that only persons of the better

class can appear there.

As a stranger in my situation should see every thing, to acquire a

knowledge of the habits, customs, opinions and prejudices of the people

he is among, therefore I accepted the offer of some gentlemen who

proposed to carry me to this quadroon ball. And I must avow I found it

much more decent than the masked ball. The coloured ladies were under

the eyes of their mothers, they were well and gracefully dressed, and

conducted themselves with much propriety and modesty. Cotillions and

waltzes were danced, and several of the ladies performed elegantly.

I did not remain long there that I might not utterly destroy my standing

in New Orleans, but returned to the masked ball and took great care not

to disclose to the white ladies where I had been. I could not however

refrain from making comparisons, which in no wise redounded to the

advantage of the white assembly. As soon as I entered I found a state of

formality.[II-8]

[Footnote II-8: If it be known that a stranger, who has

pretensions to mix with good society, frequents such balls as

these, he may rely upon a cold reception from the white ladies.]

At the end of January, a contagious disorder prevailed, called the

varioloid. It was said to be a species of small-pox, and was described

as malignant in the highest degree. Even persons who had undergone

vaccination, and those who had passed through the natural small-pox,

were attacked by this disorder. The garrison lost six men, of whom two

were severely marked. The garrison were placed in the barracks to

preserve them from this malady. It was thought that it was imported by

some negro slaves from the north. Many owners of slaves in the states of

Maryland and Virginia have real--(pardon the loathsome expression,

I know not how otherwise to designate the beastly idea,) stud nurseries

for slaves, whence the planters of Louisiana, Mississippi, and the other

southern states draw their supplies, which increase every day in price.

Such a disease as the varioloid is a fit present, in return for slaves

thus obtained![II-9]

[Footnote II-9: [A plain, unvarnished history of the _internal

slave trade_ carried on in this country, would shock and disgust

the reader to a degree that would almost render him ashamed to

acknowledge himself a member of the same community. In unmanly and

degrading barbarity, wanton cruelty, and horrible indifference to

every human emotion, facts could be produced worthy of association

with whatever is recorded of the slave trade in any other form.

One of these internal slave traders has built, in a neighbouring

city, a range of _private prisons_, fronting the main road to

Washington, in which he collects his _cattle_ previous to sending

off a caravan to the south. The voice of lamentation is seldom

stilled within these accursed walls.]--TRANS.]

We paid the late governor of the state, Mr. Robinson, a visit. It gave

me much pleasure to cultivate his acquaintance. Mr. Robinson is regarded

with universal respect, and I met in him a highly interesting and well

informed man, who converses with wit and spirit. At a dinner, given by

the acting governor, I became acquainted with the former governor and

militia general Villaret, as well as with Dr. Herman, from Cassel, who

was employed in the navy of the United States as surgeon-general. From

this dinner we went to the child’s ball, which was given in the

customary ball room of the French theatre, for the benefit of the

dancing master. Most of the children were quite charming, and danced

very prettily: only the little girls from ten to eleven years of age,

were dressed and tricked off like full grown ladies. About eight o’clock

the little children left off dancing and were mostly sent home, and in

their place the larger girls resumed the dance. The costume of the

ladies was very elegant. To my discomfiture, however, a pair of

tobacco-chewing gentlemen engaged me in conversation, from which I

received such a sensation of disgust, that I was nearly in the situation

of one sea-sick.

On the 1st of February, to my great sorrow, the brave Colonel Wool,

who had become exceedingly dear and valuable to me, took leave.

I accompanied him to his steam-boat, which departed at eleven o’clock,

and gazed after him for a long time.

I paid a visit to the bishop of Louisiana, Mr. Dubourg, and was very

politely received. He is a Jesuit, a native of St. Domingo, and appears

to be about sixty years old. He delivers himself very well, and

conversed with me concerning the disturbances in the diocese of Ghent,

in the time of the Prince Broglio, in which he, as friend and counsellor

of that prince, whom he accompanied in his progress through his diocese,

took an active part. In his chamber, I saw a very fine portrait of Pope

Pius VII. a copy of one painted by Camuccini, and given by the pope to

the deceased duke of Saxe-Gotha. The bishop inhabited a quondam nunnery,

the greater part of which he had assigned for, and established as a

school for boys. The bishop returned my visit on the next day.

At a dinner, which Mr. Grymes gave with the greatest display of

magnificence, after the second course, large folding doors opened and we

beheld another dining room, in which stood a table with the dessert. We

withdrew from the first table, and seated ourselves at the second, in

the same order in which we had partaken of the first. As the variety of

wines began to set the tongues of the guests at liberty, the ladies

rose, retired to another apartment, and resorted to music for amusement.

Some of the gentlemen remained with the bottle, while others, among whom

I was one, followed the ladies, and regaled ourselves with harmony. We

had waltzing until ten o’clock, when we went to the masquerade in the

theatre of St. Phillip’s street, a small building, in which, at other

times, Spanish dramas were exhibited. The female company consisted of

quadroons, who, however, were masked. Several of them addressed me, and

coquetted with me some time, in the most subtle and amusing manner.

A young lawyer from Paris, of the name of Souliez, paid me a visit.

He was involved in unpleasant circumstances in his native country, on

account of some liberal publications which he had made against the

Jesuits in the newspapers. On this account, he, full of liberal ideas,

had left his home, and gone to Hayti, with recommendatory letters from

bishop Gregoire to President Boyer. There, however, he found the state

of things widely different from what he had fancied them at home. The

consequence was, he had come to the United States, and he now candidly

confessed that he was completely cured of his fine dreams of liberty.

Dr. Herman gave a dinner, at which were more than twenty guests. Among

them were the governor, Colonel Croghan, and several of the public

characters here. Mr. Bowdoin, who was slowly recovering from his gout,

and Count Vidua, were also there. Except our hostess there was no lady

present. Mrs. Herman, a very beautiful young woman, was very unwell, and

obliged to leave the table soon. The dinner was very splendid.

We crossed the Mississippi in a boat, like a small chest, such a boat is

styled a “ferry-boat.” This was the only stated means of communication

supported between the city and the right bank. Formerly there was a

steam ferry-boat, and afterwards a horse-boat, but neither the one nor

the other could be supported by the business. The stream is nearly

three-fourths of a mile broad. Arrived on the right bank, we found a

little inconsiderable place called Macdonaldville, that did not appear

very thriving. Along the bank runs a levée, to protect the land from

inundation. Several vessels are laid up here. The country is exceedingly

level, and is composed of swampy meadows, and in the back ground, of

forest, partly of live oaks, which is much concealed, however, by long

ugly moss. Farther inward is a sugar plantation belonging to Baron

Marigny. The river makes a remarkable bend opposite New Orleans, and the

city, with its white spires, and crowds of vessels lying in the stream,

looks uncommonly well from the right bank.

General Villaret invited us to dinner at his country-house, which is

eight miles distant from New Orleans, and had the politeness to bring us

in his carriage. At half past eleven o’clock, I went out with Count

Vidua, and Mr. Huygens. The habitation, as the mansion-houses lying in a

sugar plantation are termed, is upon the left bank of the Mississippi,

about a short mile from the river. In December, 1814, it served the

English army for head quarters. The road to it led along the levée, past

country houses, which succeeded each other rapidly for five miles.

Several display the comfort and good taste of their owners. The

mansion-house, commonly, is situated about one hundred paces from the

entrance, and an avenue of laurel trees, which are cut in a pyramidical

form, and pride of China trees, leads to the door. The most of these

houses are two stories high, and are surrounded with piazzas and covered

galleries. Back of the elegant mansion-house stand the negro cabins,

like a camp, and behind the sugar-cane fields, which extend to the

marshy cypress woods about a mile back, called the cypress swamp. Among

these country-houses is a nunnery of Ursulines, the inhabitants of which

are employed in the education of female youth.

Five miles from the city we reached the former plantation of M‘Carthy,

now belonging to Mr. Montgomery, in which General Jackson had his head

quarters. About one hundred paces farther, commences the right of the

line, to the defence of which this general owes his great renown. I left

the carriage here, and went along the remainder of the line, at most a

mile in length, with the right wing on the river, and the left resting

on the cypress swamp.

The English landed in Lake Borgne, which is about three miles distant

from General Villaret’s dwelling. On the 23d of December, a company of

soldiers attacked this house, and took two of the general’s sons

prisoners. The third of his sons escaped, and brought to General

Jackson, whose head quarters were at that time in the city, the

intelligence of the landing and progress of the British. Immediately the

alarm guns were fired, and the general marched with the few troops and

militia under his command, not two thousand in number, against the

habitation of Villaret. The English had established themselves here,

with the intent to attack the city directly, which was without the least

protection. The general advanced along the line of the woods, and nearly

surprised the English. He would probably have captured them, if he had

had time to despatch a few riflemen through the generally passable

cypress swamp to the right wing: and had not the night come on, and a

sudden fog also prevented it. He judged it more prudent to fall back,

and stationed his troops at the narrowest point between the river and

the cypress swamp, while he took up his head quarters in the habitation

of M‘Carthy.

There was a small ditch in front of his line, and on the next day some

young men of the militia commenced, on their own motion, to throw up a

little breast-work, with the spades and shovels they found in the

habitation. This suggested to the general the idea of forming a line

here. This line was, however, the very feeblest an engineer could have

devised, that is, a strait one. There was not sufficient earth to make

the breast work of the requisite height and strength, since, if the

ground here was dug two feet, water flowed out. To remedy this evil in

some measure, a number of cotton bales were brought from the warehouses

of the city, and the breast-work was strengthened by them. Behind these

bales artillery was placed, mostly ship’s cannon, and they endeavoured,

by a redoubt erected on the right wing at the levée, to render it more

susceptible of defence; especially as no time was to be lost, and the

offensive operations of the British were daily perceptible; still the

defensive preparations which General Jackson could effect were very

imperfect. The English force strengthened itself constantly, they threw

up batteries, widened the canal leading from Villaret’s to Lake Borgne,

so as to admit their boats into the Mississippi, and covered this canal

by several detached entrenchments.

A cannonade was maintained by their batteries for several days on the

American line, but they could not reach it, and had several of their own

pieces dismounted by the well-directed fire of the American artillery.

Finally, on the 8th of January, after General Jackson had time to

procure reinforcements, of which the best were the volunteer riflemen of

Tennessee, who were distributed along the line, well covered by the

cotton bales, and each of which had one or two men behind him, to load

the rifles, the English commenced storming the line, under Sir Edward

Packenham’s personal direction. The soil in front of the line consisted

of perfectly level cane fields, which had been cut down, not a single

tree or bush was to be found. The unfortunate Englishmen, whose force in

the field was reckoned at from eight to ten thousand men, were obliged

to advance without any shelter, and remain a long time, first under the

fire of the well-directed cannon, afterwards under the fire of the

rifles and small arms of the Americans, without being able to effect any

thing in return against them. The first attack was made upon the left

wing of the line. The British did not reach the ditch, but began soon to

give way. Sir Edward attempted to lead them on again; a cannon-shot,

however, killed his horse and wounded him in both legs. The soldiers

carried him off, but he unluckily received some rifle-shots, that put an

end to his life, having five balls in his body. The Major-generals Gibbs

and Keane were struck at the same time, the first killed and the latter

mortally wounded. By this the troops, who had continually supported a

most murderous fire, were at length obliged completely to give way.

Major-general Lambert, who commanded the reserve, and upon whom also at

this period the whole command of the army devolved, made a last attempt

to force the line. He led his troops in a run upon the batture, between

the levée and the river, (which at that time was very low,) against the

right wing of the line, where the small redoubt was placed, stormed, and

took possession of it, but was forced, by the well-supported fire of the

riflemen behind the line, to evacuate it again. The English colonel of

engineers, Rennee, met with a glorious death, upon the breast-work, in

this affair. After this unsuccessful attempt, the English retreated to

their entrenchments at Villaret’s, and in a few days re-embarked.

During the failure of this principal attack, the English had conveyed

eight hundred men to the right shore of the river, who gained some

advantages there against insignificant entrenchments. These advantages,

when they heard of the bad results of the main attack, they were obliged

to abandon, and to return to the left bank. Had the storm of the right

wing, and the feigned assault on the left been successful, in all

probability General Jackson would have been obliged to evacuate not only

his lines, but the city itself. Providence surely took the city under

its protection; for the English were promised the plunder of New Orleans

in case of success, as was asserted in that city: General Jackson

moreover had given orders, in case of his retreat, not only to blow up

the powder magazine of the city on the right bank, but to destroy the

public buildings, and set the city on fire at the four corners. The

general himself so fully recognized the hand of Providence in the event,

that on the day after his victory, he expressed himself to Bishop

Dubourg thus: that he knew the city owed its preservation to a merciful

Providence alone, and that his first step should be on his return to the

city, to thank God in his temple for the victory so wonderfully

obtained. The bishop immediately gave directions for a thanksgiving, and

it was unanimously celebrated with a sincere feeling of gratitude.

From the battle ground to General Villaret’s dwelling, we had three

miles still to go over. For some days back, we had dry weather, and the

road, which after a hard rain, must be bottomless, was on that account,

hard and good. The Mississippi has the peculiarity possessed by several

streams in Holland, of changing its bed. The house of General Villaret,

was once much nearer the river; for some years, however, it has inclined

so much to the right, that it constantly wears away the soil there,

while it forms new deposits to the left. The general’s possessions are

therefrom increased, and that with very good soil. The visit of the

English nearly ruined the general. Their landing on this side was so

entirely unexpected, that he, being employed in collecting the militia

in the districts above the city, had not been able to remove the least

of his property. The English took all the cattle away, as well as above

sixty negroes. There has not been any intelligence of what was the fate

of these negroes, probably they were sold in the West Indies. All the

fences, bridges, and negro cabins were destroyed. The mansion-house was

only spared, as it was occupied as head-quarters. The youngest son of

the general, between thirteen and fourteen years old, was obliged to

remain in the house the whole time it was retained, and was very well

treated by the English generals and officers. As the English were on the

point of re-embarking, General Lambert gave young Villaret four hundred

dollars in silver to carry to his father, as indemnification for the

cattle carried off. The young man went to the city, and delivered the

money to his father. General Villaret requested General Jackson to send

a flag of truce on board the English fleet, to carry the money back to

General Lambert, with a letter from General Villaret. This was done, but

the general never received an answer.

The removal of the negroes was a severe stroke for the General, from

which, as he told me himself, it cost him much trouble gradually to

recover. The canal or bayou, which ran from his plantation to Lake

Borgne, was shut up by order of General Jackson after the retreat of the

English, and there were not labourers sufficient left with General

Villaret to reinstate it; it was of great importance to him for the

conveyance of wood and other necessaries.

We found at the general’s, his sons, his son-in-law, Mr. Lavoisne, and

several gentlemen from the city, among them Governor Johnson. We took

some walks in the adjacent grounds. The house was not very large, and

was not very much ornamented, for reasons already mentioned. Behind it

was a brick sugar-boiling house, and another one for the sugar mill.

Near that was a large yard, with stables and neat negro cabins for the

house-servants. The huts of the field slaves were removed farther off.

The whole is surrounded by cane fields, of which some were then brought

in, and others all cut down. A field of this description must rest

fallow for five years, and be manured, before being again set out in

plants. For manure, a large species of bean is sown, which is left to

rot in the field, and answers the purpose very well. The cane is

commonly cut in December, and brought to the mill. These mills consists

of three iron cylinders, which stand upright, the centre one of which is

put in motion by a horse-mill underneath, so as to turn the other by

crown-wheels. The cane is shoved in between these, and must pass twice

through to be thoroughly squeezed out. The fresh juice thus pressed out,

runs through a groove into a reservoir. From this it is drawn off into

the kettles, in which it is boiled, to expel the watery part by

evaporation. There are three of these kettles close together, so as to

pour the juice when it boils from one to the other, and thus facilitate

the evaporation of the water. The boiling in these kettles lasts one

hour; one set gives half a hogshead of brown sugar. In several of the

plantations there is a steam-engine employed in place of the

horse-power: the general’s misfortunes have not yet permitted him to

incur this expense.

After dinner we walked in the yard, where we remarked several Guinea

fowls, which are common here, a pair of Mexican pheasants, and a tame

fawn. Before the house stood a number of lofty nut-trees, called peccan

trees. At the foot of one, Sir Edward Packenham’s bowels are interred;

his body was embalmed and sent to England. In the fields there are

numbers of English buried, and a place was shown to me where forty

officers alone were laid. We took leave of our friendly host at sundown,

and returned to the city.

On Shrove Tuesday, all the ball-rooms in the city were opened. I went to

the great masked ball in the French theatre. The price of admission was

raised to two dollars for a gentleman, and one dollar for a lady. There

was dancing, not only in the ball-room, but also in the theatre itself,

and on this occasion, the parterre was raised to a level with the stage.

The illumination of the house was very good, and presented a handsome

view. Many of the ladies were in masks, and intrigued as well as they

were able. I could not restrain my curiosity, and visited the quadroon

ball in the theatre of St. Philippe. It however was too late when I

arrived there, many of the ladies had left the ball, and the gentlemen,

a motly society, were for the most part drunk. This being the case,

I returned after a quarter of an hour to the principal ball. But here

too, some gentlemen had dipped too deep in the glass, and several

quarrels with fists and canes took place. The police is not strict

enough here to prevent gentlemen from bringing canes with them to balls.

The balls continue through lent, when they are but little frequented.

On the 12th of February the intelligence of the death of the Emperor

Alexander was spread abroad, which had been received by the ship Mogul,

yesterday arrived from Liverpool, and by London gazettes of the 24th of

December. I could not believe this to be a fact, and betook myself to

the office of one of the public papers. I was here given the English

gazette to read, and I found, to my no small terror, the detailed

account of this sorrowful event. Consternation entered into my mind, on

reflecting what effect this must have produced in Weimar, and increased

my troubled state of feeling!

The volunteer battalion of artillery of this place is a handsome corps,

uniformed as the artillery of the old French guard. It is above one

hundred men strong, and presents a very military front. This corps

manœuvred about half an hour in the square before the cathedral, and

then marched to the City Hall, to receive a standard. Upon the right

wing of the battalion, a detachment of flying artillery was placed. The

corps had done essential service on the 8th of January, 1815, in the

defence of the line, and stands here in high respect.

About four miles below the city Mr. Grymes has a country-seat, or

habitation. The house is entirely new, and situated on a piece of ground

formerly employed as a sugar-cane field. The new plantings made in the

garden, consisted of young orange-trees and magnolias. Behind the house

is an artificial hill, with a temple upon it, and within the hill

itself, a grotto, arranged artificially with shells. At the entrance

stands a banana tree, and this, with several creeping plants, will

conceal it very well in summer. I observed in the garden several

singular heaps of earth, which are hollow within, and stand over a hole

in the ground. They are said to be formed by a species of land-crab, for

their residence. If a stone be thrown into the hole, you hear that it

immediately falls into water. Generally, in this country, you cannot dig

more than a foot deep in the earth, without meeting water.

It was pure curiosity that carried me a third time to the masquerade, in

St. Philippe’s theatre. It was, however, no more agreeable than the one

eight days previous. There were but few masks; and among the

tobacco-chewing gentry, several Spanish visages slipped about, who

carried sword-canes, and seemed to have no good design in carrying them.

Some of these visiters were intoxicated, and there appeared a willing

disposition for disturbance. The whole aspect was that of a den of

ruffians. I did not remain here a half hour, and learned next day that I

was judicious in going home early, as later, battles with canes and

dirks had taken place. Twenty persons were more or less dangerously

wounded!

It rained very frequently during the first half of the month of

February; in the middle it was warm, and for a time, about the 20th, an

oppressive heat prevailed, which made me quite lethargic, and operated

equally unpleasantly on every one. Indeed a real sirocco blew at this

time. It surprised me very much, that with such extraordinary weather,

not at all uncommon here, that there should be so many handsome,

healthy, and robust children. This climate, so unhealthy, and almost

mortal to strangers, seems to produce no injurious effect upon the

children born here.

In the vacant space, where the walls of New Orleans formerly stood, are

at present the _Esplanade rue des Remparts_, and _rue du canal_. The

city proper forms a parallelogram, and was once surrounded by a palisade

and a ditch. At each of the four corners stood a redoubt. The last of

these redoubts, which stood at the entrance of the Fauxbourg Marigny,

was demolished only since the last war. It would be important for the

security of the present inhabitants, to have a fortress on the bank of

the river, so that in case of an insurrection of the negroes, not only

the trifling garrison, but the white women and children should possess a

place of refuge, which is now totally wanting. The ditch is filled up,

and planted with trees; there are no buildings newly erected here, and

these open spaces are the worst parts of the city.

On the night of the 22d of February, the alarm bell was sounded: a fire

had broken out in the warehouse of a merchant. There was time to save

every thing, even the wooden building was not consumed, but in the

course of two hours the fire was extinguished.

On the same day, was celebrated the birth of the great Washington. All

the vessels lying in the river were adorned with flags, and fired

salutes. The volunteer legion of Louisiana was called out in full

uniform, to fire volleys in honour of the day. The artillery before

mentioned, which gave thirteen discharges from two pieces, distinguished

themselves again by their excellent discipline. The infantry was very

weak, not exceeding fifty men, with a most monstrous standard. A company

of riflemen of thirty men, who had done good service on the 8th of

January, 1815, appeared very singular in their costume: it consisted of

a sky-blue frock and pantaloons, with white fringe and borders, and fur

hoods. This legion was established in the last war, and considering

itself independent of the militia, it has clothed itself after the

French taste, and is officered by Frenchmen.

In the evening there was a subscription ball, in the ball-room of the

French theatre. This ball was given also, on account of the festival

celebrated this day. In former years, each person had subscribed ten

dollars for this ball; the saloon had been decorated with Washington’s

portrait, and a number of standards, and a splendid supper spread for

the ladies. This year the subscription had been reduced to three dollars

for a ticket, and hardly filled up at that price. It was attempted to be

accounted for, by the critical juncture of commercial affairs, in which

the city was placed; the true cause, however, might be traced to the

incomprehensible want of attachment among the creoles to the United

States. Although the city of New Orleans, and the whole state of

Louisiana, has benefited extremely by its union with the United States,

and daily increases; yet the creoles appear rather to wish their country

should be a French colony, than annexed to the Union. From their

conversations, one would conclude that they do not regard the Americans

as their countrymen. This aversion certainly will lessen, as the better

part of the young people acquire their scientific education in the

northern states; at this moment, however, it is very powerful. Under

this state of things, Mr. Davis, the manager of the French theatre, the

balls, and several gaming houses, announced a masked ball, at one dollar

admission, for Washington’s birth-night. The young ladies, however, to

whom a subscription ball was in anticipation, and on account of it had

prepared a fresh set of ornaments, to assist their toilet, felt

themselves exceedingly disappointed by this arrangement; as there would

be a very mixed company at the masked ball, and they would not be able

to distinguish themselves by individual ornament. For this reason, their

parents and relations had exerted themselves, and happily brought it to

pass, that instead of a ticket ball, there should be one by

subscription. In fact, this ball was very splendid, so far as the dress

of the ladies contributed thereto. Moreover, no battles took place.

In the neighbourhood of the city, some Choctaw Indians hunted, and lived

a wandering life. They frequently resorted to the city to sell the

produce of their hunting, also canes, palmetto baskets, and many other

articles. The money for these was afterwards consumed in liquor. They

are of very dark colour, have coats made of woollen blankets; wear

mocassins, and undressed leather leggings, necklaces of checkered glass

beads, with a large shell in the form of a collar, silver rings in the

nose and ears, and smooth copper rings on the wrists. The children until

four years old are quite naked; only wearing mocassins, leggings, and

the rings round the wrists.

In a tavern on the Levée, there was a collection of fossil bones, which

had been dug out of a swamp, not far from the mouth of the Mississippi,

the preceding year, and must have belonged to a colossal amphibious

animal. The single piece of the spine remaining appeared to be that of a

whale; a single rib however, also found, was too much curved ever to

have been the rib of a whale. The largest piece of those that were dug

up, appeared to be a jaw bone. Unfortunately I understand too little of

these things, to be able to venture upon a description of these

remarkable remains of an apparently antideluvian animal; certainly it

would be worth the trouble of having them examined and described by a

scientific person. Two of the bones appeared to have belonged to the

legs, and from these alone, some would determine, that the animal was a

crocodile. I was informed at this time--I say, with Herodotus, that I

only tell now what others have told me, and perhaps some one may either

believe it, or know it,--I was told that a perfect skeleton of a mammoth

was collected many years ago in one of the meadows, on the banks of the

Mississippi, not far from its mouth, and was conveyed to London, and

that very old inhabitants had heard as a tradition from their ancestors,

that this mammoth had been thrown ashore by the sea, part rotted, and in

part was devoured by the buzzards.

There is no particular market day in New Orleans, as in other places,

but every morning market is open for all kinds of vegetables, fruits,

game, &c. This market is very well provided on Sunday, as the slaves

have permission to offer for sale on this day all they desire to dispose

of.

I visited Captain Harney of the first regiment of infantry, who in the

year 1825, as lieutenant to General Atkinson, had accompanied the

expedition to Yellow Stone river, and had brought back with him several

of the curiosities of those western regions, so little known. These

curiosities consisted of a variety of skins of bears, for example, of

the grizzled bear, also skins of buffalo, foxes, of a white wolf, (which

is a great rarity,) of a porcupine, whose quills are much shorter than

those of the African species, and of wild cats. Besides these, Mr.

Harney has procured pieces of Indian habiliments, coats and leggings

made of deer skin. The warriors among these Indians wear the mark of

their dignity--the scalps--on the leggings, those of the inferior grade

on one leg, those higher, on both. The coats are made with a checkered

sewing, ornamented partly with glass beads, and partly with split

porcupine quills. The Indian women, who are designated by the universal

name of squaw, work these ornaments very ingeniously. Mr. Harney showed

me also a quiver, made of cougar’s skin with different sorts of arrows,

a bow of elk’s horn, strung with tendons drawn from the elk; several

tobacco pipes, with heads of serpentine stone, of which I had seen some

on Lake Ontario already, hunting pouches, a head dress of eagle’s

feathers for the great chief of the Crow nation, a set of the claws of

the grizzled bear, which also were worn for ornament, and a tomahawk of

flint with a variety of bunches of human hair: for every time a warrior

has killed his enemy with his tomahawk, he fastens a bunch of his hair,

with a piece of the scalp on his weapon. He farther showed me a pipe

made of a sheep’s rib, adorned with glass beads, upon which the Indians

blow all the time they are engaged in a fight, so as not to lose

themselves in the woods; a spoon made of the horn of a wild mountain

ram; various minerals, and among them petrified wood, which is found in

great quantities in that western region; serpentine, and other

curiosities. The coats of the squaws are trimmed with long thin strips

of leather, on one of these a bunch of yellow moss and grass was tied,

which the Indians regard as a sort of amulet or talisman.

On the 28th of February, in the forenoon, I went with Mr. Huygens to pay

General Villaret a visit at his country-house. A pretty strong west wind

moderated the great heat outside of the city; within it, the thermometer

of Fahrenheit had stood at eighty-one degrees in the shade. Most of the

fruit trees were in blossom. Every where we saw fresh green and bloom;

all was fresh and lively. In a sugar-cane field, there were oats a foot

and a half high, cut as green fodder. The general and his son were

occupied in managing the labours of the field. We went with them to walk

in the garden. The soil is very fruitful, that, however, is the most so,

which is reclaimed from the swamp of the Mississippi, or the Bayou. In

this soil, nevertheless the germ of a real land plague, the coco, as it

is called, shows itself, the same which was made use of on the continent

of Europe, as a substitute for coffee, during the existence of the

vexatious continental system. This knotty growth is principally found in

the mud; and one lump or knot of it multiplies itself so extremely

quick, that it kills all the plants growing near it, and covers the

whole field, in which it has taken root. It is very difficult to

extirpate, since the smallest knot, that remains in the earth, serves

for the root of a new plant, and several hundred new knots. The

legislature of Louisiana, has offered a considerable reward to whoever

shall succeed in the discovery of an efficient remedy against this pest

of the soil. No one has yet obtained the desired object.

The general explained to me, the manner in which the sugar-cane fields

were managed. Parallel furrows are made through them at intervals of

three feet. In these furrows, the cane is laid lengthwise, and covered

with earth. Some planters lay two cane joints together, others content

themselves with but one. The end of the successive piece of cane, is so

placed, that it lies about six inches above the end of the first. From

each joint of the cane, there shoot up new sprouts, and form new stalks.

In St. Domingo, there is another method of arranging the cane field. The

field is digged in square holes, placed checkerwise at the distance of

three feet apart, in which four pieces of cane are laid in the square,

and then covered up. This method is judged the best.

The tragedy of Marie Stuart by Le Brun from Schiller, and a vaudeville,

la Demoiselle et la Dame, were produced at the theatre, to which I went.

The first piece was announced at the request of several American

families, of course there were numbers of ladies of that nation in the

boxes. The tragedy of Le Brun is changed very little from that by

Schiller; it is only curtailed, and two parts, those of Shrewsbury and

Mellvil, are thrown into one. Many scenes in it, particularly the

meeting of the two queens, is translated almost word for word. Madam

Clozel undertook the part of Marie Stuart, and supported it from

beginning to end in a masterly style; but she was not properly

supported. Nevertheless, the piece met with great approbation.

Unluckily, however, the machinery was not in order. At the close of the

piece, when Leicester falls in the greatest distraction into the arms of

an officer of the guard, the curtain could not be lowered, and several

minutes elapsed, before poor Leicester could leave his painful attitude.

On this account the audience made known their displeasure by hissing,

which marred very much the effect produced by the piece.

A representation of Hamlet, in the French theatre was uncommonly well

attended. The Colombian Commodore Jolly, who had brought a brig of his

nation into New Orleans, appeared in uniform, and drew the attention of

the public upon himself, partly by his dress, and partly by his huge

dress hat, with a white feather. The next morning I made acquaintance

with the commodore, and with his two officers, of whom one is a

Colombian, and the other an Englishman by birth. The commodore had also

taken up his quarters with Madam Herries; he is a Frenchman, fifty-six

years of age, of which he has passed forty in the West Indies. I carried

him and the two officers to visit Governor Johnson, and also Bishop

Dubourg. The latter appeared very much flattered by this visit. On going

away, the Englishman kissed the Bishop’s hand. He, the bishop, expressed

his surprise at receiving this testimony of respect from a protestant;

to which the officer replied, that this reverence was paid to the

episcopal ring. Mr. Dubourg, indeed, wore a costly amethyst on his

finger, as a representation of the fisher’s ring.

For some days back the weather had become oppressively warm, like the

heat of summer. Several persons who were not accustomed to this degree

of heat, found themselves unwell; it, however, agreed with me. After a

while considerable showers of rain, accompanied by thunder and lightning

took place. The consequence of this was, in one way, that the mud became

excessively deep in the streets, but on the other hand, the river began

to rise, which occasioned great joy in the city. Numbers of steam-boats,

and flat-boats were looked for, with provisions from the western states,

as they began to grow scarce and dear.

An acquaintance very dear to me, and of which I shall always preserve a

grateful remembrance, was that which I made with Baron Marigny, a creole

by birth, and one of the most distinguished inhabitants of the state.

One of the suburbs of New Orleans was laid out by his father, and bears

his name; at the entrance of it, he lives in a mansion-house, erected

with taste and splendour. Never shall I forget the happy days, which I

passed in the circle of his amiable family. During the troubles of the

French revolution, the then duke of Orleans, found a refuge and active

assistance with M. Marigny. After some time, this gentleman made a

voyage to France, and was well received by the duke. I saw at his house,

a coffee-set of French china, which he had received from him as a

present. The cups contained the well executed portraits of the duke, the

dutchess, and their nine children, and upon the larger pieces were views

of the palais royal, and of the castle and park in Neuilly. The Baron

Marigny, also had in his possession a very fine portrait of the duke,

painted by Augustin, in Paris; likewise an engraving, representing him,

as he supported himself during his exile in Switzerland, by giving

lessons in the mathematics.

On the 11th of March, in a small company of ladies and gentlemen, I saw

a cosmorama, which was set up here. It is known generally, to be a sort

of prospect, given by being in a dark room, and beholding various

objects, through glasses of different magnifying powers. This cosmorama

contained ten views of different places, which are changed every week.

Some views of East Indian antiquities, and remarkable buildings, were

well displayed, as also, a representation of a hall in the former

prisons of the Inquisition at Goa, not so good; and a couple of views in

Japan and Macao, in China. The examination of all the objects, detained

us until evening. We then accompanied the ladies home, they lived in a

country-house, a mile below the Fauxbourg Marigny, on the Levée. It was

eight o’clock as we descended the Levée; the evening was clear, with

star-light; the bustle in the harbour had ceased; we only remarked on

board of some ships the sailors collected on the deck, under an

illuminated awning, where the captain held evening divine service.

Precisely at eight o’clock, the retreat-gun fired at the City Hall,

which is the signal for the negroes to return home, immediately after,

the two Colombian brigs fired, the drums and bugles sounded the retreat,

while the barracks of the infantry did the same. All this, added to the

lighted ships, and the solitary gleams from the opposite side of the

river, made an impression upon me, which I cannot venture to describe.

The wretched miry way, in which we nearly stuck fast, was almost

forgotten. One of the gentlemen accompanying us, had the politeness to

send me home in his chaise. This was a pleasant attention to me, for

there are drunken sailors, and fellows of the lower class, (which are

called here, as in Mexico, Guichinangos,) in great numbers here, and as

these creatures have a strong propensity to street-robbing and stabbing,

it is not very prudent to be alone on a dark evening, upon this deserted

road.

In an excursion to the country-house of Mr. David Urquhart, I observed

the great injury done by the coco, before alluded to, in his garden; it

covered both the walks and beds, from which daily industry will not root

it out. In the vegetable garden, I found most kinds of those used in

Europe, the peas were as large on the 13th of March, as they are in

Flanders on the beginning of June; we ate of green peas full three weeks

ago. The melons are first deposited in beds of manure, to force them for

earlier use, and when they begin to sprout, are planted afresh in the

field. The soil is so rich, that it does not require manure. I noticed

several fruit trees of various kinds, but was informed, that the fruit

produced by them, on account of the intense heat of summer, would not be

of good quality.

The brig Arcturus arrived on the 14th of March from Boston, with a cargo

of ice. This article is very conducive to comfort in a warm climate, but

it is exceedingly difficult to preserve it. Where there is water every

where two feet below the surface of the earth, of course, ice-vaults are

impracticable. The cargo which now arrived, was thrown into a large

brick building, and it was asserted that it would keep there till

winter. I examined the construction of this building. A coffer, made of

strong thick planks, and some forty feet in height, is provided with a

small opening under the roof. Through this opening the ice is thrown in,

and again taken out for use. About the coffer there is carried a brick

wall, and the vacant space between the wall and the planks of the

coffer, which is about two feet, is filled up with a mixture of shavings

and saw-dust, which resists the influence of the exterior warm

atmosphere.

A great quantity of drift timber was floating on the river, even huge

trees. Negroes were busied in small canoes in collecting it, as it

serves the residents on the Levée for fire-wood. The largest part of it,

however, is driven into the Gulf of Mexico, strikes the gulf stream, is

again carried into the Atlantic ocean, and driven upon the shores of

Iceland and Greenland, where it serves to warm the miserable inhabitants

of those inhospitable countries.

On the 17th of March, I accompanied Commodore Jolly to the criminal

court, before which he was cited. The cause thereof was as follows:--The

year previous, a Colombian corvette had arrived at New Orleans, from

which several sailors deserted. One of these sailors, an Indian, native

of Maracaybo, had hired himself as a servant at a Spanish grog-shop, and

came on board the Pichincha, Commodore Jolly’s brig, to visit his old

comrades, and to induce several to desert. He was recognised as a

deserter, and as such arrested. The Spaniard, with whom the sailor

Ramirez had served, laid his complaint before the criminal court, and

the commodore was cited to appear. The Spaniard had employed two

lawyers, a Frenchman, named Canonge, and an old Spaniard, Rodriguez, who

defended the cause of the sailor, and laboured to prove the commodore’s

proceedings to be illegal. The pleading of the Frenchman was full of

common place and far-fetched haranguing. Mr. Rodriguez explained his

arguments more logically, though by his Spanish accent he excited great

merriment among the audience. The commodore had no counsel, wherefore a

Mr. Morel was assigned to him as such, who, as he had no time for

preparation, requested the postponement of the cause to the following

day. This request was granted.

On the next day, we again visited the criminal court. I was apprized

that several Spaniards had combined, and promised five hundred dollars

for the setting Ramirez at liberty. They had employed a Mr. Davezac as

their third advocate. The officers, some petty officers, and one seaman,

of the two brigs, were heard as witnesses. These proved in the fullest

manner, that the sailor had deserted from the corvette Ourika last year.

The Spaniards produced opposing witnesses. These contradicted each other

so vilely in their respective declarations, that they were soon held

back, so as not to be involved in a charge of perjury as false

witnesses. By this opportunity I learnt, that it was considered

difficult among the Spaniards here to obtain a witness for the sum of

eight dollars, to say any thing in evidence that was required. And yet

that is more than such a complacent witness costs in some other

countries. The lawyers put such strange questions to the Colombian

witnesses, and particularly to the seamen, (as for instance, in what

manner was he enlisted, what was his pay, and how he was paid, how he

was fed and treated?) that the judge called them to order several times.

Mr. Morel conducted his defence very well, and successfully combated the

arguments produced by his antagonists. He then laid down the principle,

which certainly is a very just one, that the person who is on board of a

vessel of war, is within the limits and jurisdiction of that government

to which the vessel may belong. Upon this principle the commodore

necessarily must gain his suit, and this he did in a very satisfactory

manner.

After the disposal of this cause, on the 17th of March another one was

taken up. A resident lawyer, named Lloyd, whose reputation stood very

low, had, on the preceding day, insulted the presiding Judge Turner in

the street, for which reason the judge had him taken in custody by the

sheriff, and thrown into prison. The injured judge presided in his own

suit, and in this manner was both judge and party. I was informed that

Mr. Turner was insulted in his individual capacity, but that he decided

as a judge in the name of the state of Louisiana. This explanation did

not satisfy me, the distinction between person and his office, may be

correct in theory, it is, however, very hardly so in practice; and on

this account, the proceeding to me appeared arbitrary. It appeared

unfair also to me, that the judge was not assisted by a jury. Farther,

Mr. Lloyd wished to defend his own cause, he was, however, half

intoxicated, and attacked the judge so grossly from time to time, that

he ordered him frequently to be silent. The examination of the witnesses

consumed so much time, that I was obliged to leave the court before the

termination of the case. I heard afterwards that Mr. Lloyd had been

adjudged, to provide two sureties for his good behaviour, during one

year, each in a penalty of one thousand dollars, and since he was not

able to find these securities immediately, to be remanded to prison.

On the same day, Mr. Bowdoin left us, and embarked on board the

steam-boat George Washington, bound to Louisville: afterwards to return

to New York. I accompanied him on board of the boat, and had an

opportunity of observing her most excellent accommodations. The part

devoted to lodging passengers, is built like a house in a boat. The

lower deck, or deck on which the engine is placed, is occupied by what

are called deck-passengers, those who pay a lower price,--there are cot

frames suspended for them, but if there should be too many, the last

comers must of course sleep on the deck. Above this, is the principal

cabin, the passage in which to Louisville costs fifty dollars. Here is a

handsome saloon lighted from above, in the centre and on each side are

enclosed state-rooms, each with two births, one over the other. Behind

this is the ladies cabin, which can be so joined to it by the opening of

two folding doors, that both apartments may be thrown into one at

pleasure. Around this principal deck, runs a broad and lofty gallery,

for the convenience of travellers. Above the cabin, is the deck also

covered with a roof, where cotton, other articles, and deck-passengers

find accommodation. For such as smoke tobacco, there is a separate

apartment provided, in which they enjoy this acquired habit, without

incommoding the other passengers, or the ladies thereby. For the use of

travellers, there is likewise a library provided on board. The elevated

position of the cabin is very agreeable, because one is not annoyed by

the engine; moreover in case a boiler should burst, he is exposed to

less danger, as the explosion can only direct a fatal force along the

lower deck. There were a pretty large number of passengers on board; the

vessel sailed about half after four o’clock, P. M. and presented a

majestic appearance in her progress.

On the 19th of March, at nine o’clock, I went with Mr. Huygens, and a

Mr. Authur Andry, to his brother Michael Andry’s habitation, about

eleven miles distant from the city below, situated on the right bank of

the Mississippi. The road carried us over the field of battle, and past

the habitation of General Villaret: about two miles farther on, we

stopped at the habitation of Jumonville, left the carriage and embarked

in one of Mr. Andry’s ferry-boats, sent over for us, manned by seven

negroes, and crossed the river. There was much drift wood collected on

the left bank, through which we worked our way with difficulty. Then we

had also both wind and current against us, and had to keep guard against

the floating trunks of trees. We spent three quarters of an hour in this

passage. We landed at a large field of clover, belonging to Mr. Andry,

and through the garden reached his large and handsome mansion-house, two

stories high, with a piazza and very broad gallery, which is defended

from the heat of the sun by large curtains extended from pillar to

pillar. Here Mr. Andry received us.

Not long after our arrival, we went to the sugar-mills, behind the

mansion-house, near the negro-quarter. The mill, in which the cylinders

lie horizontally, is set in motion by a steam-engine of twelve

horse-power, made in Liverpool by Faucett. The juice from the cane flows

into the boiling-house, in which there are ten kettles. Mr. Andry

directs himself all the operations, and while the mill is at work

resides in a small room not far from the engine. He has the reputation

of being very severe to his negroes. Whether this imputation be just or

not, I could not decide, but twelve years ago an insurrection of the

slaves broke out at his habitation, in which one of his brothers was

murdered, and his father received three severe wounds with an axe. The

garden here was not well kept. Scientific gardeners are very difficult

to be procured here. Some years before two ships arrived with German

emigrants, who were sold to defray the price of their passage. There

were several gardeners among them. These men very soon extricated

themselves from their dependent situation, and part of them established

themselves; but the rest fell a sacrifice to the noxious climate. As the

term of their service was limited to a few years, their masters did not

give themselves much trouble to reclaim the runaways. Mr. Andry’s garden

was surrounded by a thick hedge of orange trees, and contained many

magnolias, orange trees, myrtles, jasmines, &c. We returned to the left

bank about eleven o’clock at night, and our carriage conveyed us through

the beautiful, mild moonlight, back to New Orleans in an hour.

In the American theatre, “Der Freischutz” was presented under the title

of the “Black Huntsman of Bohemia.” This drama, so universally known and

admired, and which has followed me even in America like an evil genius,

(since detached pieces of it were sung and played in almost all

companies,) I had never yet witnessed. Determined not to remain longer

in the rear of the age, I therefore went to the theatre. The orchestra

was very weak and badly filled, hardly any of the performers could sing;

I was told that the handsomest pieces of music are either abridged or

entirely omitted. The decorations, nevertheless, were tolerably good,

I found the boxes and galleries thronged. In the pit there were but few

spectators, and these consisted of sailors and countrymen from Kentucky,

who made themselves quite at ease on the benches, and cracked nuts

during the finest pieces of music; a custom I have noticed in all

English theatres, and from which my tobacco-chewing neighbours in the

boxes did not refrain. The theatre is newly erected, and is arranged not

untastefully. It contains, besides the pit and parquet, three rows of

galleries as the French theatre; the boxes are only divided by low

balustrades, so that you look out as if from a balcony; the second

gallery is destined for the reception of coloured spectators, among whom

I saw not a single female, and in the upper gallery the mob and women of

the town sit. The saloon is lit with gas, and has a very tasteful

girandole. I remained but for a short time.

One witnesses almost daily examples of the degrading treatment which the

poor negroes experience. I should say nothing of it, but one particular

scene, which roused my indignation in the highest manner, on the 22d of

March, I cannot suffer to pass in silence. There was a young Virginian

female slave in our boarding-house, employed as a chamber maid,

a cleanly, attentive, quiet, and very regular individual. A Frenchman

residing in the house, called, in the morning early, for water to wash.

As the water was not instantly brought to him, he went down the steps,

and encountered this poor girl, who just then had some other occupation

in hand. He struck her immediately with the fist, in the face, so that

the blood ran from her forehead. The poor creature, roused by this

unmerited abuse, put herself on her defence, and caught the Frenchman by

the throat. He screamed for help, but no one would interfere. The fellow

then ran to his room, gathered his things together, and designed to

leave the house. But when our landlady, Madam Herries, was informed of

this, in order to satisfy the wretch, she disgraced herself by having

twenty-six lashes inflicted upon the poor girl with a cow-hide, and

refined upon her cruelty so much, that she forced the sweetheart of the

girl, a young negro slave, who waited in the house, to count off the

lashes upon her.[II-10]

[Footnote II-10: This Frenchman, a merchant’s clerk from

Montpelier, was not satisfied with this: he went to the police,

lodged a complaint against the girl, had her arrested by two

constables, and whipped again by them in his presence. I regret

that I did not take a note of this miscreant’s name, in order that

I might give his disgraceful conduct its merited publicity.]

The river was progressively on the rise: the level of the water already

higher than the land. It still brought down great quantities of drift

timber with it. It was said, that about three days before, an uncommonly

long and thick rattlesnake had been caught upon a tree that had been

fished out. It was killed by a stroke of an axe, and had eighteen

rattles on its tail. From this it was concluded that extraordinary

inundations had taken place in the upper countries.

In order to pay my farewell visit to Mr. and Madam Andry, I crossed the

Mississippi river in a little boat, and it occupied me full

three-quarters of an hour to gain the right bank. It required a quarter

of an hour alone to pass through the drift wood, which had collected on

the shore. We were compelled, nevertheless, to direct our course

parallel with the bank, for if we had attained the main current, it

would have swept us down with great force. In addition to this, we

experienced a real equinoctial tempest, so that the passage was far from

being comfortable. I hired a horse upon the opposite bank, and rode in

less than an hour to Mr. Andry’s habitation, ten miles distance. The

horses here are trained to a small gallop or canter, which is upon the

whole not fatiguing, and carries you speedily. The storm had driven off

in a thunder-squall, I felt but the beginning of it, and reached the

habitation just at the right time. I galloped back again about five

o’clock in the evening, under a beautiful clear sky. The road ran partly

on the levée, partly along side of it. The land is chiefly cane-fields.

I came past three considerable sugar plantations, from which canals were

made in the cypress woods behind the fields, and thence to the Lake

Barataria. These canals are intended principally for the carriage of

wood. The young sprouts of the sugar cane made their appearance above

ground, and the negroes were employed in weeding it. The passage over

the river was shorter this evening than in the morning, it lasted an

half hour.

Dr. Herman showed me, at my farewell visit to him, besides his library,

the claws and head of an alligator, which he had shot on the lake

Barataria. The teeth of this reptile are indeed very long, but they do

not appear to be fixed firmly in, but are hollow, and seem as if the

animal changed them periodically; for in the cavities of several teeth,

which had appeared to leave no roots, you see young teeth pushing forth.

Below the under jaw, the alligator has two little glands, which have a

strong odour of musk. The Doctor has dried these glands, and hung them

up in that state for several years, yet still they impart a strong musky

smell. The alligator perhaps may avail himself of this substance to

benumb the fish which come within his reach, and then swallow

them.[II-11]

[Footnote II-11: [Nonsense.]--TRANS.]

Bishop Dubourg, whom I have often visited during my residence in this

place, received me one day in his library, which contains besides

theological works, many books of science and belles lettres. I remarked

a perfect set of the French _Encyclopédie_, and complimented the bishop

upon it, and expressed my surprise that he should have been able to

purchase this work so complete in this country. The worthy man related

with a smile how he had acquired it. As he was travelling through

Flanders in 1816 and 1817, in company with the Bishop Prince de Broglio,

he formed an acquaintance with a gentleman and his daughter, well known

for their bigotry. The latter, a great admirer of books, told him

confidingly, that she experienced great scruples on account of keeping

in her library the Encyclopédie, in which so many wicked things were

contained in opposition to the church. She inquired of him whether she

had not better throw this shocking book into the fire? He himself being

a great book fancier, and having observed that the work was complete,

forbid this pious proceeding, and told her that if she would commit it

to his custody, he would provide against its proving prejudicial. In

this manner he saved this expensive work from destruction, and thereby

enriched his own library.