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* * * * *
* * * *
* * * * *
TRAVELS
through
NORTH AMERICA,
during the
YEARS 1825 AND 1826.
* * *
By His Highness,
BERNHARD, DUKE OF SAXE-WEIMAR EISENACH.
* * *
IN TWO VOLUMES.
* * *
VOL. I.
* * *
PHILADELPHIA:
CAREY, LEA & CAREY--CHESNUT STREET.
Sold in New York by G. & C. Carvill.
* * *
1828.
EASTERN DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA, to wit:
Be it remembered, that on the seventh day of October, in the fifty-third
year of the independence of the United States of America, A. D. 1828,
Carey, Lea and Carey of the said district, have deposited in this office
the title of a book, the right whereof they claim as Proprietors, in the
words following, to wit:
“Travels through North America, during the years 1825 and 1826. By his
highness, Bernhard, Duke of Saxe-Weimar Eisenach. In two volumes.”
In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States,
entituled, “An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the
copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of
such copies, during the times therein mentioned.” And also to the act,
entitled, “An act supplementary to an act, entitled, ‘An act for the
encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and
books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies during the times
therein mentioned,’ and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of
designing, engraving, and etching historical and other prints.”
D. CALDWELL,
Clerk of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.
Skerrett--Ninth Street,
Philadelphia.
PREFACE.
The following journal was by no means originally designed for
publication. I wrote it during my travels, partly to recall past
incidents at a future period, partly to give, with more ease and
certainty, information to my much-honoured parents, my relatives, and
friends, on any subject, upon which inquiry might be made. After my
return, the book was read by several, for whose perusal it had not been
altogether intended. Many judicious persons imagined that it would be of
interest to a larger number of readers, and variously and repeatedly
requested its publication, in order to give it a more extensive
circulation. As I could not easily withstand these solicitations, and
besides met with an experienced and worthy person, Counsellor Luden,
to whom, as editor, I might without hesitation entrust the whole
manuscript, I yielded; whether with propriety or not, I cannot tell.
As to the voyage itself, I have nothing to say, either with regard to
its cause or design. The idea of visiting America, occupied me, almost
from my earliest years. Why this idea arose, or why it continued in my
mind, is not a matter of much moment. The chief reason was, I wished to
see the new world; the country; the people; their conditions and
institutions; their customs and manners. The more I became acquainted
with the old world, the more my desire to see the new increased.
The state and relations of the European countries, however, and the
duties by which I deem myself bound, as a military man, to the country,
to which I had dedicated my services, precluded the hope of an early
accomplishment of my design. Still I made the necessary preparations as
far as my situation and circumstances allowed, so that the voyage might
not be made at a future time without some advantage. At last Europe
appeared to have attained a degree of tranquillity which would permit an
absence of a year or eighteen months, without a fear on my part that I
should fail in any of my engagements. His majesty, the King of the
Netherlands, whom I have the honour to serve, not only allowed me the
requisite time, but also granted me a passage in the Pallas, a royal
sloop of war, commanded by Captain-Lieutenant Ryk, a gallant,
highly-esteemed, and experienced seaman.
Under which order of travellers I am to be ranked, according to poor
Yorick’s classification, is submitted to the decision of the kind
reader.
BERNHARD,
_Duke of Saxe-Weimar_.
Ghent, May 20, 1827.
TRAVELS, &c.
CHAPTER I.
_Departure from Ghent.-- Sojourn at Hellevoetsluis.-- Arrival at
Spithead._
On the 4th of April, 1825, I set out from Ghent for Antwerp. This
ancient and noble city is in every point of view interesting; to the
admirers of the fine arts, on account of the unique treasures she
possesses; to the military observer for her long defence against the
army of the Duke of Parma, and for her military and maritime importance
obtained in modern times through him who long guided the destiny of
Europe; and to the philanthropist, who derives satisfaction from the
increasing prosperity of mankind, for numerous reasons. Long the victim
of politics and the jealousy of her neighbours, which kept the mighty
Scheld, the harbour of Antwerp, blockaded, she now powerfully lifts her
head above her rivals, and her commerce, nearly as flourishing as under
the Hanseatic league, is annually becoming more extensive, thanks to the
foresight of the wise prince whom Providence has placed at the head of
our country’s government.
A government yacht received us at Antwerp, and with a fair wind and most
delightful spring weather, conveyed us, by the evening of the 6th of
April, to the road of Hellevoetsluis, where the corvette Pallas was
lying at anchor, which had orders to sail on the following day. The
first part of the voyage to Hellevoetsluis is down the Scheld; the
beautiful steeple of the cathedral of Antwerp long remains in sight; the
forts on both shores attract the attention of military men, and perhaps
remind them of the remains of the great bridge between forts St. Mary
and St. Philip, by which Alexander Farnese, Duke of Parma, crossed the
stream and forced the city to surrender.
At an hour’s sail below Antwerp, the Scheld forms a large basin, and
divides into two arms the East and West Scheld, which are separated by
the island of _Zuid-Beveland_. The West Scheld is the deepest, and flows
into the North Sea: we sailed on the eastern branch to the place of our
destination.
A century ago South Beveland was well cultivated, and contained a town
and numerous villages: it was swallowed up by the water, and still
remains overflowed. It may be reserved for the creative spirit peculiar
to our existing government and its illustrious chief, to give employment
to the plough of the industrious farmer on the spot where at present the
poor fisherman protracts a wretched existence.
We afterwards left the East Scheld, and sailed past several well
cultivated islands, protected against the violence of the stormy waves
by artificial dams. We entered upon the stream formed by the confluence
of the Maas and Rhine, and advanced immediately to Hellevoetsluis,
whence in former times the victorious fleets of Holland frequently
sailed to the remotest parts of the world, and dictated terms to her
enemies. The ships which convey the treasures of the tropical regions to
the rich city of Rotterdam, or carry the products of our own industry,
as well as the defenders of our extensive possessions, are often
obliged, by contrary winds, to remain here for various periods. Hence
Hellevoetsluis is generally very lively.
The corvette _Pallas_, in which our government permitted me to sail for
America, was a new vessel, fitted out as an instruction ship.
A selection of young naval officers was made for this voyage, as
midshipmen. To these were added a young naval architect named TROMP,
a worthy descendant of historically renowned ancestors, whose deep
knowledge, distinguished talents, and estimable character, I became
acquainted with and cherished in the course of the voyage. These
selected officers were entrusted to the direction of Captain _Ryk_, one
of our most approved commanders,[I-1] who had orders to visit some of
the principal English and American naval depôts, in order to acquire
whatever knowledge might best promote the interests of his country. On
this account the corvette was fitted out rather as a packet ship than a
man of war. She had no long guns on deck, except two long sixes in the
bows as chase guns; her battery consisted of eighteen twenty-four pound
carronades. I was established in the captain’s cabin, and a swinging cot
was suspended at night for my sleeping place.
[Footnote I-1: For the benefit of my readers who are not
military, I subjoin the names of offices in our navy, and their
correspondence in rank with army offices:--
Admiral is equal to General.
Vice-admiral ” ” Lieutenant-general.
Rear-admiral ” ” Major-general.
Captain ” ” Colonel.
Captain-lieutenant ” ” Lieutenant-colonel.
Lieutenant of the first class ” ” Captain.
Lieutenant of the second class ” ” First lieutenant.]
In consequence of contrary winds and other causes which it is needless
to mention, the corvette could not sail as quickly as ordered. In the
mean time I stayed at Hellevoetsluis, and employed my forced leisure in
examining this small town and its vicinity.
Hellevoetsluis contains upwards of two thousand inhabitants, among whom
there is scarcely a poor one to be found. The town properly consists of
but one street, on both sides of the harbour, having walled quays, and
united by a double drawbridge, built two years ago. Where the town
terminates, the dock-yard commences, which contains most of the
fortifications. Near the dock-yard are the barracks, which can, if
necessary, contain two thousand men. The frigate Rhine lay in harbour as
guard-ship. There was one ship repairing in the dock, none building. For
the purpose of repairing there is, behind the basin of the dock-yard,
a dry, terrace-shaped, walled basin, or _dry dock_, large enough for a
ship. When the ship is brought into this dock, the gates are closed, and
the water pumped out by a steam machine of thirty horse-power. This
being done, the ship is dry, and may be examined on all sides. When the
repairs are completed, the gates are again opened, the water admitted,
and the ship floated out. A _boat-gate_ is better adapted to this
purpose: a boat-gate consists of a box which exactly enters the canal
leading to the dry dock: when brought to the place where it is to be
used, a quantity of water is admitted sufficient to sink it to the level
of the shores, and then it forms a bridge. When it is necessary to open
the gate, the water is pumped out, and the box is withdrawn from the
canal. The frigate _Kenau Hasselaar_ was in the basin getting ready for
sea, and with the crew of the guard-ship under command of Captain
Dibbetz, she was to sail for the East Indies. The frigates _Scheld_,
_Maas_, _Yssel_, and _Java_, with the brig _Havic_, and about twenty
gun-boats, were laid up in ordinary. One of the gun-boats was built
after a _Danish_ model, which allows the upper part of the rudder to be
taken down and two ports to be opened, by which the stern can be used in
battery. The magazines and smithies are not large, but are kept in very
neat order.
The admiralty have a very large building here which is used as the
residence of the marine commander in chief. From a belvidere of this
house there is a fine view of the harbour and surrounding country. In
the former, the frigate _Amstel_, corvette _Pallas_, brig _De Gier_, and
transport-ship _Zeemeeuw_ rode at anchor, the two latter bound to the
Mediterranean. In the dock-yard we remarked a very large mast-crane,
which may be seen far at sea, and serves mariners as a landmark. There
is also a light-house upon one of the two dams which secure the harbour,
also built two years ago.
[From the 11th to the 25th of April, contrary winds detained the
corvette at Hellevoetsluis, during which time an excursion was made to
_Goedereede_, _Stellendam_, &c. After various changes of winds, and a
storm while lying at anchor, nothing of interest occurred until four
P. M. of the 25th, when the ship weighed anchor and stood out to sea.]
Fair wind and good weather continued until the forenoon of the 27th.
About four o’clock we saw the English coast, being the North Foreland,
not far from Margate. Here we were obliged to steer to the left to enter
the Channel, in order to reach Portsmouth and avoid the dangerous
_Goodwin Sands_. At the same time the barometer had fallen, the air was
thick and rainy, and a disagreeable south-west wind began to blow. The
passage between these sand-banks was by no means pleasant; the wind was
quite boisterous and almost stormy; we lost all hope of reaching the
Channel during this day, and were forced to be content with beating
about in our perilous situation. The motion of the ship became very
vehement towards evening, and I became sea-sick; it was not so bad while
I remained motionless in my cot. During the night the ship was in a very
dangerous situation, and Captain _Ryk_ remained all the time on deck.
The lead was regularly thrown during the night. In attempting to get
into my cot, which was very much inclined, and the ship giving a heavy
lurch at the same time, I received a heavy fall on my head, which,
however, was not productive of much injury. On the morning of the 28th
the wind was somewhat lighter, and we discovered that during the night
we had been in a situation of extreme danger, and had reason to be
thankful to the great Creator for our safety. The weather gradually
cleared up, and we enjoyed with great satisfaction the noble prospect of
the English coast. Immediately ahead lay Margate with the southern shore
of the Thames; farther to the left, Ramsgate, and still farther, Deal.
We were moreover surrounded by shipping, and in the Downs we saw the
English ship of the line, Ramilies, which cruised this year on this
station, lying at anchor.
The wind was now westerly, and our commander having no wish to pass
another night as dangerously as the preceding, resolved to cast anchor
in the Downs. This determination led me to think of landing at Deal,
going to London for a day, and then returning to Portsmouth. In the
course of the day, however, an east wind sprung up, which changed all
our resolutions. We passed the cape of South Foreland, and entered the
Channel prosperously, where we saw the high chalk rock between Deal and
Dover, with several castles, and Dover itself, with its ancient and
strong castle, near the ruins, &c. We were also delighted with a
beautiful view of the French coast, the white rocks of which were
illumined by the sun. The wind, as we passed by Dover, was very light,
the current was against us, and during the night it rained and blew. The
anchor was consequently dropped, and we remained off Dover till one
o’clock the following day. In the mean time the weather improved, though
the wind continued to be very slight and unfavourable. I embraced this
opportunity to visit Dover, in company with Captain _Ryk_, his nephew,
and Mr. Tromp. We breakfasted at Wright’s hotel, in which, eighteen
months before I had stayed with my family, and at that time took a walk
to the fortified camp, that lies westwardly from the town, on an
important height. To this place we ascended by stairs cut about twenty
years ago. A subterranean passage leads from the town to the foot of
these stairs. For a supply of water a well was dug through the rock to
the depth of about two hundred feet, and to this well three stairs were
cut of two hundred and sixty-eight steps each. These stairways are wide
enough to allow two men to walk conveniently abreast. They terminate in
a funnel-shaped excavation, whence a stone staircase leads towards four
terrace-shaped barracks, built one above the other. Somewhat higher is a
pentagonal redoubt, also employed as a barrack, in which at this time a
detachment of artillery, the only garrison of Dover was quartered. The
redoubt forms the right wing of the position. From this point an
irregular line of masonry, partly hewed out of the rock, runs to the
left wing, where there is an oblong quadrangular fort. In front of this
fort is a tolerably deep valley, through which the London road passes.
We were delighted with the view of this beautiful vale and the fresh
green of the turf. Messrs. Tromp and Ryk made a sketch of the rocks and
mountains, which would make a strong impression upon one who had not
beheld them, even upon me who am familiar with their appearance, it
produced a very agreeable feeling. From the left wing a line runs _en
crémaillère_, beside which, at an entering angle, a casemated magazine
is placed near a small fort that defends the harbour. From this line a
door opens towards the high rock called Shakspeare’s Cliff, which we had
not leisure to visit. The masonry of the fortification is of brick, with
a half _revêtement_. The rock is throughout chalk, containing flint.
These flints are much employed in paving roads and streets, to the great
injury of the hoofs of horses; some houses in Dover are also built of
them. We turned back again towards the corvette, highly gratified with
our excursion. We saw two steam-boats arrive at Dover, one from Calais
and the other from Boulogne. A water spout was pointed out to me at a
distance. At one o’clock the wind began to blow fair, the anchor was
weighed, and we stood onwards with fine weather, delighted with the
continuous view of the English coast.
On the 30th of April with a fresh wind we made the eastern point of the
Isle of Wight, where we hoisted a flag, and fired a gun for a pilot, who
did not come on board immediately. We sailed cautiously onwards, came in
sight of Portsmouth, and neared St. Helen’s point, Isle of Wight. The
pilot then came on board, and steered us into Spithead road, off
Portsmouth. This town, in which I was so much pleased two years before,
has a very handsome appearance. Several ships of the line were lying in
the harbour, among which was the _Victory_, on board of which Lord
Nelson was killed. When we saw the admiral’s flag floating from her
mainmast head, we saluted her with seventeen guns, which she returned
with thirteen. We anchored in the road where we found two English
corvettes, an East India company’s ship, and a Portuguese frigate, which
had brought the Portuguese ambassador, the Marquis Palmella, to England.