HEDGES: THEIR FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT
Strictly speaking, hedges are divided into two kinds—useful and
ornamental—the former being employed for keeping farm stock in bounds,
and the latter in the subdivision of private gardens and for lawn and
park purposes generally. Where the fences are intended purely for
protective purposes the thorn, beech, hornbeam or holly are the plants
usually employed, while for ornamental garden subdivisions almost any
shrub may be used, the choice of which will lie with the operator.
Amongst all the trees and shrubs that have been found suitable for
the climate of Britain, none equals the common whitethorn, or Quick,
for hedge-formation, where strength and shelter are points of first
consideration. The beech and hornbeam certainly can thrive better on
exposed and high-lying ground and where the soil is poor and thin, but
neither forms so durable a protection against farm stock as the thorn.
When properly treated the thorn is a fast grower, and as a fence plant
it is ornamental, smooth, stubborn, and long lived. It is also not at
all subject to disease, and is very readily propagated. Few soils come
amiss to the thorn—that is, if they are not overcharged with moisture,
but it delights in a rich hazelly loam.
(1) =Plantation Hedges—Preparation of the Ground and Planting.=—Thorough
preparation of the ground where live fences are formed should take
precedence of all other operations—indeed, nothing can repay the
planter more satisfactorily than the previous suiting of the land,
in the way of draining and trenching, to the plants intended to be
inserted.
In all cases we have found it well to have the ground along the line
of fence trenched to a depth of 2 ft., and about 3 ft. in width, and
a quantity of manure incorporated at the same time. If this can be
done some months before planting the thorns or other fence plants, so
much the better, as it gives time for the loosely upturned soil to get
mellowed and sweetened, as also for the manure to get well decomposed.
In all cases it may not be necessary to apply manure, but, where the
soil is at all poor, the addition of a quantity of well-rotted manure
has a wonderful effect in stimulating the quick into active and strong
growth. The vigorous and rapid growth of a hedge, when the soil has
been well worked and manured, is remarkable, and in all cases the
labour and outlay expended on the fence is amply repaid.
[Illustration: HEDGING TOOLS]
It is well to plant rather above than below the general ground level,
so that in trenching the soil a slight mound should be raised along
the intended line of fence, which will not only materially assist in
keeping the plants from excessive moisture, but aid in the cleaning and
general management of the hedge. Where superfluous moisture is present
in the soil the hedge-and-ditch system is to be recommended, which
consists in digging out a ditch parallel with the line on which it is
intended to place the fence. It should be 3 ft. deep, 5 ft. wide at
top, and 1 ft. at bottom, and the soil removed in so doing is thrown
upon that side where the hedge is to be planted, thus forming a mound,
or rather ridge, on which the plants are to be placed.
In wet soils such a ditch is indispensable, but, under ordinary
circumstances, it is to be condemned, and for the simple reasons that
it is expensive and rather against than in favour of the free growth of
the fence.
=Thorn or Quick.=—The best time to plant the whitethorn is just after
the fall of the leaf in autumn; but the operation is usually extended
from that time until early spring, though in the latter case perhaps
with less satisfactory results.
In selecting the plants a great amount of care is necessary, as also in
the lifting and after-planting. Four-year-old plants are best suited
for hedge-formation, and they should be stout of growth and well
rooted. The size of the plants is of more importance than the age, and
those with stems as thick as one’s finger are to be preferred to others
of greater height, but lank and small of stem. Frequent transplanting
while in the nursery border should have been paid attention to, as
then the roots are bushy and fibrous and well suited for planting out
permanently.
Great damage is frequently done to thorn plants by careless lifting,
and, worse still, by bundling the plants in lots ready for the planter.
This should never be tolerated, as it is quite evident that when tied
up in bundles and covered over with soil, the plants in the centre of
each bundle get dust-dry and fall a prey to the searching winds of
spring.
Plants should in all cases, where it is possible, be lifted and
replanted within the week, but, much better still—and this is readily
effected where a home nursery is on the estate—on the same or the
following day.
In planting, stretch a line along the centre of the prepared ground,
and close to the line take out a perpendicular trench with the spade of
sufficient size to allow of the roots of the plants being spread out
to their full extent. From 6 in. to 8 in. will be found a convenient
distance apart to place the thorns, and they should not be planted
deeper than they stood whilst in the nursery border, which will readily
be seen by the mark on the stems. A small quantity of fine soil should
now be placed next the roots, and this firmly trodden, the remainder
of the soil being added afterwards. Dibbling the plants is sometimes
recommended, but, in our own opinion, it is a dangerous practice and to
be avoided, the roots necessarily being thus confined to small space
and placed in an unnatural position. Planting in single line is in most
cases preferable to inserting in double line, as it is by the former
method that the strongest and most durable fences have been formed.
Some planters cut back the young thorns to within 2 in. of the ground,
and the practice, although not readily reconciled with physiological
principles, is to be recommended. It is unquestionable that headed-back
thorns shoot out with greater vigour, and become thicker, than such
as have been left untouched, but the fact that they are then greedily
devoured by ground game has somewhat caused the practice to fall into
disuse, at least where game is abundant and the cost of fencing cannot
be entertained.
The =Beech=, as a hedge-plant, must not be despised, being a rapid
grower on most soils, and soon forming a very valuable fence. In rich
soils it retains a great proportion of its leaves during winter, and
is, therefore, an excellent shelter-plant. It, however, lacks the
rigidity of the thorn, and for that reason is not very suitable for
planting where farm stock have access. It may be planted in a manner
similar to that recommended for the thorn, only the individual plants
should stand farther apart.
The =Hornbeam= makes a good live fence, and will grow readily in
any fairly good soil and not too exposed ground. It may be treated
similarly to the beech.
=Privet=—both the common and oval-leaved—have been largely used, either
alone or with other plants, in the formation of hedges, for which they
are peculiarly suitable. They, however, want stiffness, so as to be
able to cope with farm stock, and for this reason are principally used
in ornamental garden subdivisions.
=Gorse or Furze.=—Strikingly beautiful as well as useful hedges may be
formed of gorse. It is well adapted for planting on light dry or sandy
soils, or on the top of a dyke or sunk fence.
Seed sowing is to be recommended in the formation of gorse fences,
and after preparing and well working the soil, 1 lb. of seed to every
100 lineal yards will be found sufficient for sowing down. It should
be remembered that in order to keep the fence full and bushy, pruning
should take place immediately after flowering and before seeds are
produced.
Cutting over the hedge at ground level every third year will be very
beneficial to this fence.
(2) =Ornamental Hedges—Holly.=—This makes an excellent ornamental
fence, and it is occasionally though rarely used for plantation
purposes. The ground should be thoroughly prepared, and, if necessary,
enriched by a dressing of strong loam, and the plants inserted in
May. The holly can be planted when of almost any height, if previous
transplanting was attended to.
=Yew.=—For purposes similar to the latter, the yew is generally in use.
It may be planted at any time, but should be kept well watered until it
has become established.
=Laurustinus.=—As a flowering hedge for garden or lawn purposes few
shrubs are of greater value than the laurustinus, particularly in
maritime districts. In severe winters it suffers considerably, though
generally fresh growths are sent up from the root-stock. Pruning should
be carefully done, so that the flowering shoots are not cut away.
=Box.=—Very neat and serviceable garden fences are made of this shrub.
It grows freely and stands pruning well.
=Rosa rugosa= and =R. rubiginosa= (Sweet Briar).—Both these species of
rose have come greatly into favour for garden subdivisions, for which
they are peculiarly suitable. They make charming hedges, are of easy
growth, and stand pruning with impunity. Of course, where they are
wanted to flower great care in pruning is necessary.
=Laurel.=—Both the common and Colchic laurels make fairly good hedges,
but they are apt to get gappy by portions dying out. This can, however,
easily be remedied by filling up with others instead. They bear
trimming well.
=Aucuba japonica= forms a useful and ornamental hedge, stands pruning
well, and lasts for a long time.
=Berberis Darwinii= and =B. stenophylla= are both highly ornamental
hedge shrubs, and when not pruned too severely flower with great
freedom. Shortening the long shoots with a pocket-knife is best.
=Cleaning and Pruning.=—An annual cleaning of the ground alongside
hedges must never be neglected, as weeds rob the soil of its
nourishment, choke the young plants, and to a great extent prevent the
free access of rain to the roots of the hedge plants. The common hoe
is, for this purpose, to be recommended, and any weeds that cannot
be got at around the stems must be removed by the hand. Ivy, elder
and honeysuckle should all be treated as weeds, for they are highly
injurious to hedges, be these young or old.
Very little, if any, pruning or switching should be done till the third
year after the fence has been formed, and then only the longer twigs
cut back, so as to get by degrees a general uniformity of shape. The
switching-knife is alone to be recommended for pruning fences, shears
never making a clean cut, and pressing and loosening the bark at the
point where amputation took place. A well-sharpened switching-knife in
the hands of a dexterous hedger turns out beautiful and commendable
work.
Unless it be an annual cleaning and trimming, a well-formed hedge
should require but little attention for many years. Should it,
however, when old, begin to show signs of distress and become gappy,
a top-dressing of rich farmyard manure will go a great way towards
throwing fresh energy into the plants. This should be applied in
winter, and lightly forked in the following spring, and before growth
has commenced. Should gaps occur by reason of deaths in the old plants
these should be removed, and others of young growth substituted, the
soil at the same time being dug out and other fresh from a field or
roadside used instead. Great care should be exercised that the roots of
living plants are not injured whilst removing the dead and substituting
the live specimens. Specially-prepared plants and such as are unusually
stout and bushy should alone be used in hedge-repairing.