ORNAMENTAL PLANTING
As the beauty and picturesqueness of an estate are so dependent on the
disposition of its single trees, groups and plantations, the forester
should never lose sight of the fact, even when dealing with plantations
that are mainly intended for the value of the timber produced.
In ornamental planting one of the principal things to bear in mind
is to allow sufficient space for each of the permanent standards
to develop its true and natural character. Instead, therefore, of
planting indiscriminately and in a sort of haphazard way, have a fixed
idea, and only plant on a regular and well-matured plan. Should the
individual standards be considered stiff or unsightly for the first
few years, a good plan is to fill up the spaces between them with
small-growing trees and shrubs, these being removed subsequently as
necessity demands, but always before damage to the permanent specimens
has been brought about by too close contact. The habit of the tree or
shrub, and the size to which it will ultimately attain are points that
should never be lost sight of in ornamental planting. Far too often
the mistake is made of planting specimen trees too near roads and
buildings, or, quite as bad, too close to each other. This is a most
unfortunate mistake, as it sooner or later necessitates the sacrifice
of specimens when their full beauty is probably developed, or when they
can least be spared.
In the case of both hard-wooded and coniferous, the latter in
particular, the trees are planted when young and small, and ample
room is supposed to be given to them; but, as they grow up and near
perfect development, the spread of branches soon points out that a
great mistake has been made in the space of ground allotted, and that
the ultimate size to which the particular specimen would attain had
never, at the time of planting, been duly considered. There is little
left then to be done but either to put up with crowded and ill-formed
specimens, or to attempt their removal to more suitable quarters. The
latter, in the case of trees that have been left undisturbed for many
years, and when tap and side roots have been sent down to a great
depth for safe anchorage, is quite out of the question, the only
remaining way out of the evil being to sacrifice the specimen by having
it stubbed out and removed. In any case, in the event of one tree
encroaching too closely on another, no time should be lost in deciding
which is to be removed, for, if they crowd into and interfere with each
other, the branches on that side will get thin and die off, and the
tree will thus lose the uniformity of appearance on which its whole
beauty depends. Should crowding of specimen trees be permitted for even
a few years, partial disfiguration of the trees will have been brought
about, and it will take years of careful management to restore them to
their original beauty.
In order to plant with any degree of certainty as to future results,
it is absolutely necessary to become first of all well acquainted with
the nature and habit of every tree planted, as also the properties and
peculiarities of the various soils, and aspect and position of the
ground to be planted.
Probably no other branch of forestry requires sound judgment and
correct ideas to such an extent as the laying out of parks and grounds,
or, in other words, landscape and ornamental planting—and this
knowledge can only be attained by perseverance, investigation, and
study.
In selecting sites for the various trees, it will be well to bear in
mind that certain species are better suited than others for planting
in exposed places, for using in particular soils, and for inserting in
either dry or damp ground.
By the lake or pond side the =Deciduous Cypress= (_Taxodium
distichum_), the =Bhoton Pine= (_Pinus excelsa_), the beautiful
cut-leaved =Imperial Alder= (_Alnus glutinosa imperialis_), the
=Golden= and =Purple Willows= may all be planted with the best chances
of success; whereas none of these would thrive well on dry or sandy
soils. Should chalk or calcareous soil crop up, we have good subjects
in the =Fern-leaved Beech= (_Fagus sylvatica asplenifolia_), the
=Cephalonian= and =Spanish Silver Firs= (_Abies cephalonica_ and _A.
Pinsapo_) and many of the =Pyrus= family; while, where only a small
quantity of loam overlies the gravel, the =Scotch= and =Cluster Pines=
(_Pinus sylvestris_ and _P. Pinaster_), the pretty and far from common
=Manna Ash= (_Fraxinus Ornus_), and many others may be successfully
planted. In good, rich soil, and where the position is fairly
sheltered, there are no end of ornamental trees, both hard-wooded
and coniferous, that may be planted. Some of the =Magnolias=, but
particularly _Magnolia stellata_, _M. acuminata_, and _M. Umbrella_
should find a place, while the =Juneberry= (_Amelanchier canadensis_),
the =Cornelian Cherry= (_Cornus Mas_), and various =Thorns= should
not be neglected. In exposed places plant clumps of the =Corsican=
and =Austrian Pines= (_Pinus laricio_ and _P. austriaca_), following
up with the hardy =Spruces= and =Cypresses=. Such dainty conifers as
the =Japanese Cryptomeria= (_C. japonica_), the =Elegant Cryptomeria=
(_C. elegans_), =Fitzroya patagonica=, =Prince Albert’s Fir= (_Tsuga
Mertensiana_,) and =Umbrella Pine= (_Sciadopitys verticillata_) must
have cosy corners and good soil to show their beauty to perfection.
=Pitting and Planting.=—The pits for the reception of ornamental trees
should be well formed: that is to say, should be made of sufficiently
large size for the specimens to be planted—indeed, it is always
preferable to dig out pits of a greater size than are required, thus
allowing of a quantity of broken-up soil being placed beneath and
around the roots. In any case, have the bottom and side of each pit
thoroughly broken up, and should the soil be found to be of inferior
quality, it is best to substitute that of a more desirable kind such
as is known to be suitable for the wants of the particular specimen.
In removing large specimen trees great care should be exercised—first,
that the roots are uninjured, or if at all, in a very small degree;
second, that a good ball of earth is attached; and, third, that
replanting is delayed as short a time as possible. Have the pit, for
the reception of the tree, dug out and prepared before the specimen is
lifted. Lift carefully by undermining the roots, and digging out a deep
trench at a reasonable distance from the stems, the distance from the
stem to be regulated by the root spread, size of the specimen, etc. In
order to avoid falling apart, the ball of earth should be bound with a
strong mat or tarpaulin, the ends being made fast around the stem.
A stout low-wheeled truck has been found a most convenient appliance
for removing the specimen; but in the case of large and heavy trees the
common timber wheels, or janker, may be found of great service. The
truck to which we refer should be specially made, and should be of the
following dimensions: length, 5 ft.; width, 3 ft.; on wheels 1 ft. 3
in. in diameter, these being placed so as to be below the level of the
body, thus avoiding contact with the load when that is either longer
or broader than the specified dimensions. The framework should be of
stout oak, and the bottom 3 in. thick boarding. The timber wheels, or
janker, being an adjunct of forest appliances, is always at hand, and
does away with the necessity of procuring any of the elaborate and
costly carriages usually recommended for transplanting large trees and
shrubs. The tree being placed in the pit opened for its reception, the
roots should be spread out and the soil replaced and trampled firmly,
and afterwards well watered.
=Staking the Trees.=—Next to careful planting and watering a matter of
the most vital importance—but one that, unfortunately, is too often
lost sight of—is the efficient staking or otherwise securing of large
transplanted trees. The great strain and consequent damage to the roots
of large transplants when allowed to rock about with every gust of wind
is not only highly injurious, but, viewing the matter from a point of
neatness, few things in forestry have a more unsightly or neglected
appearance than trees almost blown over by the wind. Various are the
methods usually adopted in staking and tying newly-transplanted trees.
As no hard and fast lines can be laid down, as a rule, the size of
the trees and the exposure of the positions in which they are planted
must determine the method of procedure to be adopted. It may be that
when growing in a low-lying, sheltered valley, trees of even 8 or 10
ft. in height may be perfectly safe without stake or tie of any kind,
whereas others of similar or even smaller size, growing in an open
position and exposed to the prevailing winds of the district, will
require a mooring of the most secure description, and adjusted in the
most efficient manner. For trees and shrubs up to 6 ft. in height, a
strong, sharp-pointed stake should be driven firmly into the ground,
within about 9 in. of the main stem, and on the most exposed side. The
stake should be fully 7 ft. long, and driven, not perpendicularly, but
with the head slightly inclined from the tree, and in the direction
from which the prevailing winds usually blow. A strong ligature of some
kind, such as tarred rope or thick matting, is then placed round the
stem of the tree requiring support, at about 4 ft. from the ground, and
made fast to the stake at a similar height.
By crossing the tie between the tree and stake, a more efficient job
results, as there is then less room for the tree to work in when
rocking with the wind. It will thus be seen that the nearer to the
stem of the tree the stake is placed, the greater will be the power of
resistance.
When the trees and shrubs are from 8 ft. in height and upwards, but
especially in the case of evergreen species, stronger moorings than
those just described will have to be employed, and the following plan
we have found suitable for almost any emergency. A strong band of
leather, or several strands of tarred rope, are placed loosely around
the stem of the tree to be staked, and at, say, three-quarters of its
height. Three wires—ordinary fencing wire does well—are then joined to
this collar, two on the most exposed side and one on the other, and
made fast to stout stakes driven firmly into the ground, at a distance
from the main stem proportionate to the tree’s height. In the case of
very large trees, or those that have been reinstated from a fallen
position, double wires are used in a manner similar to that just
described, the collar, however, being unusually strong. The advantages
of double wires are extra strength, and the fact that they admit of
being twisted at any time to the tightness required.
The above may be considered the two principal ways of staking large
transplants, but occasionally cases will crop up in which it may be
necessary to resort to other methods, but such are peculiar cases, and
must be dealt with in a peculiar manner.
CUT-LEAVED, WEEPING AND FASTIGIATE TREES
These have their own place in landscape gardening, and when placed
in the hands of a skilful planter are capable of producing the most
beautiful and pleasing effects. The majority are graceful in outline,
distinct and impressive in appearance; in fact, possess all those
qualities which render them specially valuable for the embellishment
of park or garden. Great care is, however, necessary in planting these
trees, for if not used with the greatest discretion, the good effects
they are so capable of producing in the hands of a trained planter are
destroyed.
=Weeping Trees.=—Both picturesque and beautiful is a well-developed
specimen of the Weeping Beech, and particularly so when associated with
trees of a light and airy appearance, for the general character of the
tree is somewhat massive and lumpy. Being of large growth, the Weeping
Beech wants plenty of room for development. There is also a desirable
weeping form of the purple Beech.
The Kilmarnock Weeping Willow (_Salix caprea pendula_) is one of the
most popular and widely cultivated of weeping trees. It originated
near Ayr, in Scotland, and was so named to distinguish it from two
other well-known varieties, the common Weeping Willow and the American
Weeping Willow—two desirable forms for waterside planting. In the
American Fountain Willow we have another excellent weeping tree, while
the ringed-leaved Willow (_S. Babylonica annularis_ or _crispa_) is one
of the most curious and picturesque of the whole group.
Amongst the Birches are at least two desirable weeping forms in the
cut-leaved (_Betula pendula Youngi_), Young’s weeping Birch, and the
weeping white Birch (_B. alba pendula_), both of which are admirably
adapted for lawns, even where space is restricted. The Birch will
thrive on poor, light soil, and is, therefore, peculiarly suitable for
planting in gravelly or rocky formations.
The distinct habit of the Weeping Mountain Ash, or Rowan tree, has made
it a favourite in the embellishment of small grounds, and the wealth
of conspicuous fruit produces a telling effect, especially if the tree
is backed up by darker foliaged trees or shrubs. There are other forms
of Pyrus well worthy of attention, such as the pendulous Siberian
Crab (_P. prunifolia pendula_) and _Salicifolia pendula_, the latter
in particular being a distinct and graceful small-growing tree. The
Weeping Mulberry (_Morus alba pendula_) is occasionally seen in good
form when it is a desirable acquisition, so is the Weeping Laburnum
(_L. vulgare pendulum_) and the curious and scarce _Gleditschia
triacanthos excelsa pendula_. In the silver-leaved Weeping Holly we
have one of the best of evergreens for confined situations; and _Cornus
florida pendula_ is a strikingly beautiful tree in which the weeping
habit is decidedly pronounced.
Among Weeping Elms some varieties are most pronounced, but there are
several others all equally worthy of culture. Of the English Elm,
probably the best is _Ulmus campestris Petersii pendula_, while of the
Mountain or Scotch, that known as _U. montana pendula_ is the most
desirable. Weeping thorns are by no means common, but they are probably
the most natural and graceful of all drooping trees of modern growth.
In the flower garden at Regent’s Park is growing a beautiful specimen
of this tree.
Perhaps the most common of weeping trees is the Weeping Ash (_Fraxinus
excelsior pendula_), and its strong, vigorous growth causes it to be
employed where others would not succeed. Even in smoky localities it is
quite at home, as many fine old trees throughout London clearly prove
that the deleterious effects of an impure atmosphere have but little
effect on its hardy constitution. It is one of the best of weeping
trees for forming an arbour, and as a distinctly ornamental specimen
for the park or large lawn it has few equals.
Amongst coniferous trees we have several distinct and beautiful
pendulous trees or shrubs, such as _Abies excelsa inverta_ and the
well-known and much appreciated _A. Smithian_ or _morinda_. The
pendulous Hemlock spruce (_A. Canadensis pendula_) is one of the
prettiest and most natural in appearance of all weeping trees.
There are several distinct and beautiful forms of the Cypress,
particularly _C. Lawsoniana gracilis pendula_ and _C. Lawsoniana alba
pendula_. The Weeping Chinese Juniper (_Juniperus Chinensis pendula_)
and _Virginiana pendula_ are well worthy of attention where this
particular class of trees or shrubs is in request. Than the weeping
form of the common Larch, perhaps no tree is more beautiful, the
feathery pea-green foliage being distinct from that of every other tree.
=Cut-leaved Trees.=—Of the Maples we have several cut-leaved forms,
such as the beautiful _Acer palmatum laciniatum_ and _dissectum_, while
of the Norway Maple, the variety known as _Platanoides dissectum_ is
particularly valuable on account of the freely divided and beautifully
coloured leaves.
In the cut-leaved Birch (_Betula alba laciniatum pendula_), we have at
once one of the most graceful and distinct of hardy trees. Not only
are the leaves cut up and divided, but the weeping sprays of foliage,
owing to the fine, whipcord-like branchlets, produce a most beautiful
and graceful effect. In addition, this Birch is a tree of neat, clean
growth, and will succeed in a satisfactory way even on poor gravelly
soils and upland situations.
Amongst the Beam trees (_Pyrus_) we find several good cut-leaved
forms, such as _pinnatifida_ and _salicifolia_, both highly desirable
medium-sized trees and valuable for woodland margins or steep,
undulating grounds. Numerous forms of the Oak have appeared with
incised leaves, such as _Quercus dentata_ and the fern-leaved variety
of the Turkey Oak (_Quercus Cerris asplenifolia_), a decidedly
beautiful and worthy form. Of the English Oak (_Q. Robur_) we have
at least two good cut-leaved forms in _Pedunculata asplenifolia_ and
_pectinata_. There are other varieties of the Oak in which the foliage
differs considerably from that of the species in being much more freely
divided.
_Rhus glabra laciniata_ has become widely known of late years on
account of its neatly divided foliage and as being a good town shrub.
The leaves are of a delicate pea-green and the flowers inconspicuous
and succeeded by feathery lawns.
The common Alder has at least two forms that are much sought after for
dampish ground by the pond or lake side, in _Alnus glutinosa laciniata_
and its well-marked and distinct variety _imperialis_. Both attain to a
goodly size, and when suitably placed where the abundant, rich green,
deeply divided leaves can be readily seen, are distinctly valuable for
contrast and waterside effect.
The incised or cut-leaved Hornbeam (_Carpinus Betulus incisa_) is
rarely seen, but it is of so distinct a type that its inclusion in this
list is considered desirable. In this case the almost entire beech-like
leaf is finely divided and the whole tree presents a comparatively
light and airy appearance. Of the common Hawthorn there is a specially
elegant cut-leaved form in that named _laciniata_, but its distinctive
characteristics are best revealed when planted in conjunction with the
species.
Several of the Vine family are rendered highly ornamental for covering
walls and pergolas by reason of their beautifully coloured and divided
leaves. _Vitis heterophylla dissecta_ is one of the best in this way,
but others of the less-incised forms are well worthy of attention. _V.
vinifera purpurea_ has much to recommend it as an ornamental-leaved
variety, and is specially suitable for covering mounds of earth, stones
or tree stumps.
We must not omit to include the cut or fern-leaved variety of the
Lime (_Tilia platyphillos laciniata_), which for neat habit of growth
and distinct character from the species merits special attention. The
cut-leaved Japan Maples are exceedingly beautiful, but their slow
growth and difficult propagation will always be against extensive
planting, and render them rare and expensive. Other interesting
cut-leaved trees are the willow-leaved Ash, laurel-leaved Willow,
scarlet Oak, Maidenhair tree, and that most beautiful of all, the
fern-leaved form of the golden Elder.
Though somewhat stiff of outline the cut-leaved Horse Chestnut
(_Æsculus_), in the form known as laciniatum, is not to be despised,
and affords a striking contrast to the species.
The fern-leaved Beech (_Fagus sylvatica asplenifolia_) is probably the
most commonly distributed of cut-leaved trees, and rightly so, for it
is certainly one of the most beautiful and distinct of the type. _F.
sylvatica quercifolia_, the Oak-leaved, is also worthy of attention,
but cannot compare with the former in point of beauty. Even of the
common Walnut (_Juglans Regia_) there is a cut-leaved variety, which
is distinct and worthy of culture as an ornamental tree. It is named
_laciniata_ and is fairly common.
Of the numerous varieties of the Sweet or Spanish Chestnut, the most
desirable is that which bears the rather cumbrous name of _Castanea
vesca heterophylla dissecta_. It is one of the most beautiful of hardy
trees, in which the long, narrow leaves of the upper parts of the
branches droop in a graceful manner and render it so much sought after
in ornamental gardening.
=Fastigiate Trees.=—The Lombardy Poplar (_Populus fastigiata_) is
at once one of the most conspicuous and picturesque of tapering
trees. Though it can hardly be described as a beautiful tree, yet
for landscape effect the tall, spiry, column-like appearance renders
the Lombardy Poplar of particular value for certain well-chosen
positions in our parks and grounds. In the neighbourhood of a town or
country village it produces an effect almost akin to architectural
embellishment, while in flat or low-lying districts, and particularly
near water, it is most at home and probably looks best. It also
associates kindly with old ruins and has a pleasing effect when rising
out of pointed-headed Cypresses or Yews, but in all cases it is a
tree that should be used sparingly and with extreme caution. Forming
avenues or lines of the tree is not good taste, while planting single
specimens in open situations should be avoided.
Of the Poplars there are several upright-growing varieties in addition
to the Lombardy, such as the beautiful _P. alba Bolleana_, a desirable
fast-growing tree with a character of its own.
The Oak, too, has its decidedly upright form in _Quercus pedunculata
fastigiata_, which in old parks is a fairly common tree. A decidedly
beautiful small-growing tree is the upright form of the dwarf Acacia
(_Robinia Pseudo-acacia inermis fastigiata_) which for confined spaces
and wealth of delightful pea-green foliage is a valuable small-growing
variety.
The Elms are not wanting in upright-growing forms, both the English
and Scotch being represented, the former in _Dampieri aurea_, and
the latter in _Montana fastigiata_. A beautiful and distinct tree of
upright habit will be found in the fastigiate variety of the Tulip tree
(_Liriodendron tulipifera fastigiata_).
_Cupressus sempervirens_, in many parts of England, but particularly
by the coast, forms a beautiful tapering evergreen tree with the
darkest-green foliage. For clump planting it is particularly desirable,
but it is not quite hardy in some parts of the country. Another
coniferous tree of naturally erect growth is the red or Virginian Cedar
(_Juniperus Virginiana_), which in sheltered sites is a most desirable
member of the family. Two other Junipers are of decidedly strict
growth, _J. drupacea_ and _J. thurifera_.
The Irish Juniper (_Juniperus hibernica_) originated in Ireland, most
probably as a chance seedling. It is a most desirable shrub, and on
account of its singular habit of growing in a compact, slender and
graceful column, has proved itself a most valuable evergreen for
almost any position, but particularly where geometrical gardening is
carried out. The silvery glaucous hue of the thickly produced foliage
is extremely beautiful. The nearly allied but much smaller growing _J.
hibernica compressa_ forms a compact slender pyramid of bright-tinted
foliage and is an excellent plant for rockwork or small gardens.
Amongst the Cypresses are several upright-growing forms, probably the
best, and certainly the most widely distributed, being Lawson’s erect
Cypress (_Cupressus Lawsoniana erecta viridis_), of dense, erect habit
and with vivid green foliage. _Cupressus macrocorpa lutea_, raised by
Messrs. Dicksons, of Chester, has a decidedly neat and upright habit
of growth, while the distinct golden tint of the foliage renders it a
desirable acquisition for ornamental planting.
Than the Irish Yew (_Taxus baccata fastigiata_) with its dark sombre
foliage and neat columnar outline, few evergreens are more conspicuous
and effective. This favourite and far-distributed variety originated at
Florence Court, in Ireland, a century and a quarter ago.
_Cupressus macrocarpa fastigiata_ is a well-marked variety in
which the branches closely press to the main stem. The foliage is
of the brightest green, and the long whip-cord-like shoots with
the conspicuous reddish back, impart a peculiar grace to healthy
specimens. _C. torulosa_, for planting where space is confined, is
a decided acquisition, the easy though columnar habit of growth,
slender branchlets and bright glaucous foliage being all points of
recommendation.
The upright form of the Birch (_Betula alba fastigiata_) has a
peculiarity of habit that, associated with the slender weeping shoots,
is highly ornamental; while _Cornus stricta_ and the upright variety of
our common Hawthorn have both points of recommendation.