OUR JOURNEY TO MOJANGÁ.
Last Meetings in the Capital—Farewell interview with the Queen—Departure
to Vonizongo—North Vonizongo—Angavo—The five Garrison
Towns—Religious condition of their People—Crossing the Wilderness—No
man’s land—The Cataracts of the Ikopa—Vast deposits of Drift—Town of
Mevatanána—Voyage in Canoes—Junction of the Ikopa and Betsiboka
Rivers—Amparihibe—Crocodiles in the River—The Level Plains—Town of
Trabonjy, its Governor and People—Marovoay—Arrival at Mojangá: Its
Churches and People—Religious condition of the District—Trade and
History of Mojangá.
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CHAPTER IX.
OUR JOURNEY TO MOJANGÁ.
OUR work in Imerina was done: we had only a fortnight left to make our
preparations for another voyage, to complete sundry matters of business,
and say farewell to our friends. The day after our return we attended
the opening services of Mr. Jukes’s church at Ankadibeváva on the east
slope of the city-hill. The Directors of the Society had assisted the
native congregation by a grant of £300: and for that sum and other
contributions raised by the people, Mr. Pool had erected a substantial
and handsome building, convenient for worship and an ornament to the
city. The church, when the seats are finished, will hold eight hundred
people. The congregations were large at the opening services, and as in
other lands on similar occasions the ladies appeared in bright and even
gorgeous dresses. Several new hymns and tunes, prepared for the
occasion, were most effectively sung by choirs from various churches and
the congregation at large. Amongst other addresses, a touching sermon
was preached by an officer high in the Government and the community,
from the text: “Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one of the least of
these my brethren, ye have done it unto me.”
Among minor incidents of our life at this time, I may mention that,
while spending a pleasant evening with Dr. Davidson, the house and city
were well shaken by an earthquake, the second we have experienced during
our year in the island. The shock was a moderate one, and its general
direction was north and south.
On Thursday, July 16th, we were invited to a very pleasant
entertainment, by the members of the Friends’ Mission, the Medical
Mission and of our own Society, that they might express their kind
feelings toward us in relation to our visit, and together wish us
farewell. The members of the Friends’ Mission have all along been
working in perfect harmony with our own: and it was a source of great
satisfaction to my colleague and myself, that by making their
acquaintance, looking into the form and character of their work, and
settling one or two questions which had been pending, we had been able
to draw the bonds between the two missions even closer than before. To
the members of the Medical Mission the families of our mission are under
great obligations for constant and unvarying kindness: while in their
special work of giving effective help to the native families of the
city, young and old, rich and poor, and in the medical education of
young men, our brethren and ourselves can feel nothing but warm
sympathy, and give them willing co-operation and aid. The stations of
the Norwegian Mission we had seen in various parts of the southern
country; and from all the missionary brethren, in country and in town,
we had experienced great kindness. The members of all four missions are
at the present time in complete accord; they have the same spiritual
aims; they teach the same Evangelical doctrine: they are co-operating in
many ways together in their plans: and week by week they meet together
in each other’s homes to ask for the same Divine blessing on the
missions to which they belong. That we had done anything to promote this
loving union, was a source of much pleasure to us both. We were assured
in various quarters that it was so. And at this social gathering Mr.
Dahl spoke in affectionate and emphatic terms of the benefit which, in
this direction of union, our visit had conferred upon them all.
The native pastors manifested the warmest affection toward us, as the
time of our departure drew near: and on Saturday evening they paid us a
formal visit. Fifteen were present. They said kind things of ourselves
and our coming amongst them: gave each of us a beautiful silk lamba as a
parting gift: sent the most affectionate messages to the Directors and
the friends of the Society at home; and then requested Mr. Pillans as a
pastor of long experience to give them some parting counsels in regard
to their work. When he had finished the younger pastors, who had but
just left the College and entered upon Church work, asked for a few
special words for themselves. No young pastors in England could have
made the request more naturally, have listened more intelligently, or
have been more grateful for the weighty words which fell from my
colleague’s lips, than these young men. And it gives us hope and
confidence in regard to the future of our churches, that such are the
simple, true-hearted, well-trained ministers of Christ, whom our
Theological College has begun to send forth to be the guides and
instructors of the Malagasy Church.
Our friends within the Palace also studiously manifested their regard
for us. Three of the principal officers, from whom we have all along
received much kindness, visited us, and presented us with dresses and
other manufactures of the country; each giving us different specimens of
native work. And one, not only sent messages to his young cousins, now
being educated in Europe, but desired us to express his warmest thanks
to the Directors and our Churches, for the service which they have long
rendered to his countrymen in Madagascar by preaching among them the
gospel of Christ. The Queen and Prime Minister added many expressions
and proofs of their regard to those of their relatives and friends. And
it was arranged that on the morning of Saturday, July 18th, the Queen
should in the presence of the Court, grant us audience to say farewell,
as she had given us a formal reception on our arrival; and that she
should then place in our hands her reply to the Address of the Directors
which we had brought with us.
We were accompanied by several members of the Mission, including our
kind interpreter, the Rev. W. E. Cousins, and punctually at ten o’clock
we were introduced. The Queen received us in the usual audience hall of
her own palace. She was seated on a sofa on the north side of the hall:
and we observed that she had under her feet a gilded footstool, sent by
a member of my family, while an illuminated Scripture card, given by
Mrs. Pillans, was hanging on the wall; a thoughtful recognition of
little attentions shown to her in our first interview. There was a large
assembly of the officers of government, who stood chiefly on the Queen’s
right: and almost as numerous a gathering of ladies, who were seated in
two rows upon her left, wearing English morning dress. The interview was
a remarkable one in many ways.
Addressing the Queen for my colleague and myself I made the usual
enquiries after her health, and the welfare of her kingdom; and then
said that we had completed the work which had brought us to Madagascar,
and had come to say farewell. We had been sent by their friends across
the sea to salute the churches of Madagascar, to consult with them and
with the missionaries as to their welfare, to arrange for the
enlargement of the mission, and to visit those parts of the country in
which the mission is carried on. We had in this way visited the Betsileo
province and Imámo, Vonizóngo and the Sihánaka; we had described to her
in our letters what we had seen, and especially had expressed our
gratification at the great progress of the gospel among the churches of
her people. We were now anxious to see the churches in the Sákaláva
country, and proposed to take the English steamer at Mojangá.
We thanked her and the Prime Minister for much personal kindness; for
their warm interest in the welfare of the churches; and for the wise
words spoken by the Queen on several occasions about the schools. We
thanked them for their special interest in the progress of the students
in the College and in the Normal Schools: and we commended these
institutions to their continued care. We thanked the Queen for her care
over the English missionaries; and that they and their families and
ourselves lived so safely in the land. Might we add one thing. We had
seen how the churches were growing: how they worshipped, and kept the
Sabbath-day and were governed in an orderly way. But forms were not
faith: the spirit and life are needed: the Teacher is the Holy Spirit,
the root and rule of faith are to be found only in His word. We should
pray for the churches that they might have this life in a large measure:
Madagascar has many friends in England, and will have many more. To this
Mr. Pillans added a few words. The address was translated sentence by
sentence by Mr. Cousins; as was also the reply.
The reply of the Prime Minister was warm and hearty. The Queen (he said)
was pleased to see us again and to hear our words; those words were
good. The Queen and himself thanked the Directors for their kind
presents and the messages they had sent. They were glad, very glad, to
see the progress of the gospel among their people: for “What should it
profit a man if he gain the whole world, yet lose his own soul?” They
were glad we had come to visit the churches and the island: they had
often wished that some friends might specially be sent to see the
progress which the mission and people had made: therefore they had given
us full opportunity to travel everywhere and see things for ourselves:
they had nothing to conceal, they wished us to see that the money and
labour expended on Madagascar had not been expended in vain. In respect
to the missionaries, he said they thought them good men and good
preachers and did their work well: but we were sensible men and could
judge of this for ourselves. The Queen would still protect them and
permit them to continue their work in perfect freedom.
The Prime Minister then, in the name of the Queen, desired us to convey
their thanks to the Directors for all the good which the Society had
been doing in Madagascar. They remembered that it was our Society, which
had sent missionaries and the gospel in the days of Radáma I.: that it
had always been their friend; and that it was now sending thirty
missionaries for the instruction of their people. Therefore they desired
us to convey their thanks to the friends of the Society across the sea
for all their kindness. He added a special message about the education
of his son, who is under the care of the Directors. Lastly the Queen
regretted that we could not be present at the opening of the
Palace-church; she would have liked us to be present: but we could see
that it was not yet finished. After a few further remarks we took our
leave.
The written address, forwarded by the Queen in reply to that of the
Directors, is as clear and explicit as the Prime Minister’s spoken
words. It is in itself a most interesting document. But the authorities,
to manifest their appreciation of the honour which the Directors had
shown to them, employed all the means in their power to illuminate and
ornament their reply as the Directors had done. The result was a work of
art most creditable to the island: it gave the Board great satisfaction;
and it will be framed and placed in the Board-room. The words are as
follows:—
“TO THE DIRECTORS OF THE LONDON MISSIONARY SOCIETY.
“GENTLEMEN,
“Our good friends, the REV. DR. MULLENS, Foreign Secretary
to the LONDON MISSIONARY SOCIETY, and the REV. J. PILLANS, one
of the Directors, and his lady, have reached Madagascar in
safety; and, whilst we were in Fianarantsoa, had an opportunity
of joining with HER MAJESTY and MYSELF in public worship at the
camp.
“ON our return to the Capital, they had again an audience of HER
MAJESTY and MYSELF in the Palace, and on that occasion they
presented your Address, dated London, June 30, 1873, together
with the various presents sent by your SOCIETY to HER MAJESTY
and MYSELF.
“The Address has been carefully perused, and its contents duly
noted by HER MAJESTY, and I am authorised by HER to answer it.
“I have to inform you that, through the blessings of the DIVINE
BEING, HER MAJESTY the QUEEN, MYSELF and all the members of the
Government, are well. The Kingdom enjoys peace; but, more than
that, HER MAJESTY is happy to tell you, that by the power of the
MOST HIGH and the mercy of JESUS CHRIST our SAVIOUR, according
to the saying, ‘THE KING’S HEART is in the hands of the LORD,’
GOD has shown mercy to our SOVEREIGN, and has enlightened HER to
know JESUS CHRIST, and has endowed HER with strength, so that
from the time when she began to receive the GOSPEL, SHE has led
and encouraged her subjects to serve GOD and pray to HIM through
JESUS CHRIST, and to be diligent in using all opportunities of
acquiring useful knowledge. SHE has also done her best to help
the missionaries of your SOCIETY, so that, during the reign of
HER MAJESTY RANAVALOMANJAKA, the Kingdom of CHRIST has made
great progress in MADAGASCAR, and the number of believers has
increased more than during any period, notwithstanding the way
in which the missionaries for many years contended with
difficulties, and exerted themselves to the utmost. But still
the QUEEN continues to pray GOD that His Kingdom may advance
until the joyful words shall be fulfilled which say, ‘They shall
all know Me, from the least of them unto the greatest of them,
saith the Lord,’
“HER MAJESTY the QUEEN thanks you, the DIRECTORS, and all the
constituents of the Society, because she knows your ardent
desire to benefit her kingdom by your sending Missionaries and
Teachers to preach and teach the GOSPEL and other useful
knowledge, from the reign of HIS MAJESTY RADÁMA I. to the
present time. HER MAJESTY therefore wishes me to assure you that
the missionaries and teachers sent by you to labour in
Madagascar shall continue to enjoy HER protection, and be
allowed full liberty to preach the Gospel, and to impart useful
knowledge in accordance with the laws of the kingdom.
“OUR friends, the REV. DR. MULLENS and the REV. J. PILLANS, have
been allowed perfect liberty to travel where-ever they have
pleased to visit the Churches of Madagascar, they have had full
opportunities of making their own observation, and will be able
to bring you a reliable report of the state of things here. MAY
GOD protect them to reach you in safety! What they have done
here has been good, and has given us much pleasure. They are
worthy men, and well fitted to act as the representatives of
you, our friends, across the seas. We are especially pleased
with their words saying,—‘WE DO NOT TRADE NOR DESIRE TO GAIN
ANYTHING FOR OURSELVES, but only that the people may know JESUS
CHRIST.’ These are indeed very good words, for they show both
the excellence of your views, and also what will be sought by
your good brethren the missionaries in Madagascar.
“HER MAJESTY thanks you very much for your kind message, and the
good wishes for the prosperity of her kingdom; and SHE prays GOD
that they may be fulfilled. SHE also thanks you for the presents
you sent HER, and accepts them as a mark of your friendly
feelings towards HER.
“AND I, too, thank you very much for the nice presents you sent
to me.
“HER MAJESTY also desires me to thank you for the very kind care
you have taken of RAPENOELINA, for he was sent by HER Government
that he might obtain a good English education. What you have
done for him has given HER MAJESTY great satisfaction, as his
progress is already manifest from his letters to me. HER MAJESTY
will be pleased if you convey to RAPENOELINA’S teacher the
thanks of HERSELF and HER GOVERNMENT; for his instruction and
kind care have given HER very much pleasure.
“MAY the ALMIGHTY GOD bless you in your useful labours for the
evangelizing of mankind, and may HE ever give to the people
earnest hearts to help you to spread the GOSPEL of JESUS CHRIST
among all nations.
“THAT, dear friends, is the wish of HER MAJESTY the QUEEN of
MADAGASCAR and MYSELF for you all.
“I AM, GENTLEMEN,
‘In the name of HER MAJESTY the QUEEN of MADAGASCAR,
“YOUR SINCERE FRIEND,
“RAINILAIARIVONY,
“Prime Minister.
“GIVEN at the COURT of HER MAJESTY the QUEEN of MADAGASCAR, at
ANTANANARIVO, this 18th day of July, in the year of OUR LORD,
1874.”
The news of what had passed at this interview, was speedily circulated
among the people, and gave them much satisfaction. Pastors and
congregations everywhere expressed a hearty concurrence with the words
of their Sovereign; for there prevails among them a deep feeling of
attachment to the Society, which for fifty years has stood their friend,
which never forgot them in the dark days, which sprang at once to their
side when light and order returned, and which is doing at the present
time more than ever for the edification of its Malagasy children.
Our heavy baggage was sent on a-head. On Sunday we held a farewell
service with our missionary brethren of the four Societies and their
families: and on Tuesday morning many of them accompanied us several
miles along the banks of the Ikopa. Then with difficulty we said
farewell; and took our last look of the city of Antanánarivo, in which
we had spent so many pleasant days. Just at sunset, we safely reached
Vonizongo: and occupied our old quarters at Fiháonana in Mr. Matthews’s
house.
The route to the north-west coast which we were about to follow was new
to Englishmen, though employed for fifty years by the native
authorities. Since Radáma and his cousin Rámanétaka, with the Hova army,
subdued the Iboina district in 1824, and governors (or commanders as
they are termed) and garrisons had been placed in several of its towns,
messengers, officers and detachments of troops have continually passed
up and down country between Imerina and the conquered province.
Unhappily little information could be gathered from them; for our native
friends make neither Itineraries nor maps; they have no good standard
for measuring distance or time: and changes in the scenery, details as
to valleys, hills and rivers, are things which they have not yet learned
to note. M. Grandidier travelled from Mojangá to the Capital; but he did
so by a route some miles to the east of our own: and even of that route
he has spoken only in brief terms. Mr. Maynard, who returned to England
a few months before ourselves, had at our suggestion taken this route;
and he gave us several valuable hints and indicated the general
character of our journey. A colporteur also from Vonizongo prepared for
us an outline of his own proceedings and adventures, when he visited the
churches down country last year.
All parties took great interest in our proposed expedition: the majority
regarding it with hearty approval, while others gravely shook their
heads. “It was a serious experiment:” “the fevers were deadly.” “The
roads were rough and rocky,” said the bearers: “Sákalávas, enemies,
robbers, were to be expected:” “for some days the country was a desert;
and we should find nothing to eat for ourselves and our people, and no
place to sleep!” We persevered; for we have conquered such difficulties
before: and have found Malagasy, as well as English, bugbears and bogies
collapse when well grasped. It was of importance that the churches in
the Sakalava country should no longer be overlooked; that an attempt
should be made to open the route more fully to Mojangá; and that the
Directors should be enabled to decide whether an English missionary
should or should not be placed at that station, with a view to
superintend the churches and the mission work of the district at large.
The fears of the bearers could of course be gauged by money: they soon
showed that if they were to go at all, they intended to make a good
thing of the journey: and it was not without difficulty that their
exorbitant demands were reduced within reasonable limits. Even then we
had to pay twenty-six shillings to each man for the journey down, before
our arrangements could be completed; and several of our best men
deserted us at the last moment, because they thought that rate not
sufficiently remunerative. Mr. Matthews had engaged to be our companion
and interpreter: but early in July, family illness compelled him to lay
the plan aside, and Mr. Jukes very kindly took his place. We were
greatly indebted to him for much kind and effective service rendered to
us on the way.
In Vonizongo we rested a day to complete our preparations, to rearrange
our baggage, and write our last letters. On Thursday, July 23d, we
fairly entered upon the unknown; and we reached Mojangá in perfect
health and comfort on Saturday, August 8th, having spent sixteen days on
the way. All our men, ninety-five in number, were with us, suffering
from nothing worse than fatigue. And it was amusing to find that, after
all that had been said and feared, we had had one of the most safe, easy
and enjoyable journeys, performed during our visit to the island.
The country we now visited divides itself into three sections, differing
in a marked degree from one another. The first section includes the
inhabited country among the hills: Noman’s land occupies the middle
position; and the Sákaláva plains, as far as the sea, take the third.
The first section of our journey carried us along four broad terraces,
of which three mark very decided falls of the ground towards the sea. At
the same time our course led us, not directly to the most abrupt descent
of the ground, viz. toward the west; but obliquely along the descent,
and over a larger space of ground. This is the reason why we found the
journey so easy and pleasant.
While travelling on Thursday, July 21, through Vonizongo, we followed
the track we had already taken, on that pleasant Sunday which we spent
in December 1873, with the people of Sambaina. As then, we traversed the
high moors beyond Fiháonana, the ground rising higher and higher, till
we came abreast of the great ridge of Ambohimanga which here curves
toward the east. As before, the south-east wind blew keen and cold over
these exposed moors, which lie 4600 feet above the sea. We descended
over the edge of the ridge, seven hundred feet: and came into North
Vonizongo, a long level valley, between two pleasant lines of hills and
drained by the river Andránobe. On the left we had the noble ridge of
Ambóhidambínana, with a large village Ambohizáfy at its foot. Other
small villages are near. Proceeding due north, we came upon a curious
bend of the Andranobe (3880 feet), and crossed that river twice. The
people informed us that it rises on the north side of Andringitra and
east of Lohavóhitra: it passes through the populous valleys near
Ambóhitrólona, with their numerous churches; rounding the promontory of
Ambohimanga, it enters north Vonizongo; and having watered that valley
for many miles, passes through the western line of hills and falls into
the Ikopa. We have ourselves seen the greater part of this course.
Passing a few villages beyond this bend of the river we came to
Ambohitromby, where our men had their morning meal. We ourselves had
tiffin in a private house: and the good people took the opportunity of
seeking light on a variety of outside Biblical questions which trouble
the Malagasy mind. We did our best to explain them: and everything would
have gone well, if the long strings of venerable soot hanging from the
roof had not diverted themselves by dropping contributions into our rice
and tea. A pleasant and easy journey during the afternoon, brought us
early to the village of Ankazobe (3830 feet). With fourteen houses,
surrounded by deep fosses and high cactus hedges, full of dust and pigs,
a chapel with a falling wall, clumsy window-frames and no windows, it
was not a first-rate place of accommodation either for ourselves or our
men. We managed however: though the night was very cold.
Next day we continued along North Vonizongo, and sent our baggage direct
to Maháridaza, a few miles distant, where we were to sleep. We ourselves
turned aside to climb the lofty ridge of Angavo (4880 feet), which
promised numerous and valuable observations. We had a long and heavy
climb, but were amply repaid by the prospect we obtained. It was no
scene of beauty that spread around us: we looked upon a treeless, empty
wilderness: the only population was in the long valley up which we had
come. The whole district is within the region of the sedimentary clay:
the valleys have been scored out of it by water: and naturally the clay
hills are of one height. Looking over the eastern ridge in the direction
of the Anátivolo, we could not discern one prominent hill: all the
summits were of uniform height. To the west it was the same. The only
exception was in portions of ridges like the Angavo on which we stood.
This was a grand mass of gneiss; and the bluff at its northern end is a
lofty perpendicular precipice, one of the finest rocks we have seen in
the country. North of Angavo, the next ridge is unbroken, the valley of
North Vonizongo is completely shut in; part of the waters have escaped
down the Andránobe on the south-west: the remainder have swirled round
the precipice at the head of the ridge, have cut out a beautiful hollow
in the northern hills and have escaped along the west side of Angavo,
down what is now the valley of the River Antrobo. The ridge itself and
others parallel with it trend off to the south-west. To the south
Lohavohitra and Tsi-áfa-balála were conspicuous points: and to the north
we fixed the position of several prominent hills, near which we
subsequently passed. Descending the Angavo ridge on its western side, we
crossed the Antrobo, and as we went along saluted the inhabitants of
Antándrokomby, a village of forty houses, who came out to meet us. The
precipice of Angavo overhangs this village and it looked grand indeed,
as we passed close to its foot.
Maharidaza we found to be a village of forty-two houses; very dirty and
with countless herds of swine. The people were very ignorant but very
willing. Some of them had never seen a person write, until Mrs. Pillans
showed them how it was done and what meaning it had. It reminded me of
the early days of Raiatea, when John Williams, to the astonishment of
his people, used “to make chips talk.” They have had but little
attention paid to their wants, and although there are chapels all up the
valley to this point, the means of instruction at their command have
been very scanty. Now however that the organisation of the Imerina
Mission has been extended, Mr. Stribling will probably give regular
superintendence to all these churches. With them and their neighbours
the ordinary population of Northern Imerina in this direction comes to
an end.
On Saturday we had a short journey. Our course lay up the inner bend of
the long valley, and then we climbed over the ridge by the pass of
Ambohimena (4800 feet): and on the hill to the west we took several
useful observations. Nowhere did we see signs of upheaval in the latest
and existing stage of things. The entire country was sedimentary clay,
which had buried and enveloped the gneiss ridges and boulders of an
earlier time, and was now cut and scored to great depths by the action
of water.
To the east and west the tops of the hills were of the same height. To
the north the clay had given way. The red hill of Ambohimena and the
ridge to which it belongs is the edge of the Vonizongo terrace. On the
north side the ground begins rapidly to fall. And we pass down two or
three long stairs before we reach Noman’s Land; the total fall in which,
over a length of sixty miles is 1700 feet. The fall was patent to the
eye, and it showed itself in two parallel valleys, divided by a
remarkable line of conical hills. In less than three hours we reached
Kinajy (3490).
The town of KINAJY is the first of a series of military stations, five
in number, in the direction of the Sakalava country, and along the line
of easiest access. It is the guard and gate of the north-west road into
Imerina. Each of these towns has its commander, its government house,
and its garrison. Each is at the same time a great cattle post; and
immense herds, belonging to men high in authority in Imerina, are fed
and tended in their neighbourhood. The kraals in which they are kept are
very large. The town consists of sixty-eight houses, and is placed on a
spur of the hills, having many deep gullies on its northern side. On the
south it has a double gateway: and each gate can be closed both with
poles and stones. The pigs as usual were multitudinous. But the chapel
was a clean little building, neatly fitted with mats, and the Governor
and his people willingly allowed us to occupy it. We spent a most
pleasant Sunday with them. The building was well filled both morning and
afternoon: the congregation included several respectable Hova families,
dressed with great neatness: and as Mr. Jukes had not yet overtaken us,
we were glad to find that we had in our camp two native preachers, who
could speak well and to whom the people listened with pleasure. All day
long we were receiving applications for books, especially the new
lesson-book: the young people were delighted to practise the new tunes
and hymns; and I had a large number of patients suffering from feverish
colds.
We spent the next three days in completing our journey through the Hova
stations; and found the country very easy to traverse. The moment we
left Kinajy, the ground began to fall. We crossed a fine valley to the
north; and at an opening between two conical hills, came upon a little
winding river, the Mánankázo, “that which has wood,” a truly descriptive
name, when in the midst of this dry, clay country, the only bushes and
trees were to be found in the ravine of the stream. The river rises in
the hills near Vohilena, to the north of the Anátivolo. On the bank and
along the roots of the hills the grass was truly beautiful: much of it
was in vast tufts, very tall, tinted with pink and purple; another kind
was a strong, reedy grass: and a third was crowned with a handsome white
feather, soft as down. Passing to the eastward over the shoulder of
these rounded hills, we came into a second valley, and found ourselves
between high parallel gneiss ranges, with a rough and rocky edge. A
stream of clear water came out of the eastern hills, called the
Firingáláva: and we crossed many streamlets rushing down to join it.
We took our lunch at AMBOHINORINA, the second of these garrison towns,
with fifty houses and a clay chapel: duly enclosed by a ditch, wall, and
gates. Four miles north was a deep basin, which ended in a ravine down
which the river ran. Here the grass was on fire, and we had to run the
gauntlet: then we climbed the ridge to a higher level, and passed
between two noble mountains, Sáháfásika, on the west, four miles in
length; and Ambohibe on the right. Both these mountains we had duly
noted from Angavo: and the double head of the latter, made it a
conspicuous object for many miles. We spent the night at AMPOTAKA
(2490), a dirty town of thirty houses, with an immense cattle fold and
fine herds that filled it. Beyond Ampotaka, we mounted high ridges,
which gave us excellent observing stations, but over which the east wind
was sweeping with violence. We looked down at one point upon deep
valleys, and passed along the upper edge of a fine waterfall. The hills
were very fine in all directions and the scenery was truly picturesque.
We now descended into the valley of the Máhamókamita, “that which makes
musquitoes to cross,” which passes clean through the western ridge. The
river comes from the moor on the south-east; it winds much through the
clay, into which it has cut deep, and in the middle of the glen into
which we descended it falls in a fine cascade over a reef of hard rocks.
All through the glen the scenery was bold and pleasing. We came out into
an open and level basin, in the centre of which was the town of
MANGASOAVINA (2160).
This was a pleasant town of eighty houses, enclosing a rova and
stockade: with abundance of cattle, pigs and fowls. The people were
exceedingly intelligent and we found them hospitable and kind. The basin
in which it stands is eight miles across; the land is grassy and level:
several villages were in sight: and we judged that altogether there were
four hundred houses in the town and neighbourhood. A fine gneiss hill
Andriba, formed its northern boundary: and when we had rounded it, we
found beyond a second basin, containing fine clumps of the rofia palm,
and a few travellers’ trees. It was a charming spot, with small villages
and rice cultivation. The basin was crossed by the river Kámolándi,
which like the Máhamókamita, drains the eastern moors and passes to the
west into the Ikopa. Half a mile beyond the river was the town of
MALATSY (2140), the fifth and last of these garrison towns. The town has
sixty houses; on the slopes there may be some ninety more; and about a
hundred others scattered about the valley. Near the centre of the valley
is a Sakaláva village, the people of which were greatly interested in my
photographing, when I endeavoured to take successively pictures of the
Andriba Hill and of the Rofia palms. Here once more the grass was on
fire and the roaring flames passed within a short distance of our
position. We secured valuable additions to our series of observations
and carried our stations onward into the districts we have yet to
traverse.
The religious and social condition of these five towns was a matter of
serious concern to us all. The populations are not numerous: they are
exiled: they are isolated. But they are important in themselves; and
they have an important relation to the communities still beyond them.
They are easy of access. They lie along the valleys at intervals of from
six to ten miles, and small clumps of houses are found in their
neighbourhood. East and west the country seemed entirely empty. No
English missionary had visited them, till we went along the line. Mr.
Matthews, their nearest neighbour, had been too occupied with the
pressing work of his own district to see them personally: but he had
several times sent a colporteur among them with books and Scriptures.
The only other help they have received is from Hova officers and
soldiers and their families, who have passed by them on their journeys
northward or when they have come to settle on public duty in their
midst. Naturally therefore we found their condition backward and needing
much attention from Christian people.
Kinajy contains some active Christians, and the little chapel is not
only well kept, but is usually well filled. There are sixteen church
members in the community: many could read: four could write; and there
was an earnest and persevering demand for books, which we were glad to
supply. Ambohinorina has a little clay chapel: no school: scarcely one
person able to spell out a few words. Yet they were most hearty in their
hospitality and they seemed eager to learn. Ampotoka has a little chapel
of reeds and mud. Two could read. A few knew the alphabet. There was not
a Bible in the village; there was however one Testament. Altogether the
people were very dark.
Mangasoavina was much more advanced. There were twenty who could read:
many more knew their letters. Sixteen were baptized and form the church.
They have one service on the Sabbath and one hundred and fifty people
attend. They have two pastors.
The people were anxious to have a service during the evening of our
stay; and Mr. Jukes gladly assented to their request. My colleague, Mr.
Pillans, has given an interesting account of this little conference at
which he was present. In going into the governor’s house where the
people had assembled, he passed through the kitchen, where a fire was
burning on the floor filling the house with smoke. In an inner room were
thirty or forty people seated on the floor. In the midst stood a native
lamp, with a thick wick; and a little girl fed the lamp from time to
time by dipping a stick into a lump of grease and stripping it into the
lamp with her fingers. The light was sufficient to make darkness
visible: but scarcely enough to enable Mr. Jukes, though down on his
knees, to read the texts to which his enquiring companions continually
referred him. “We were anxious to learn what kind of teaching these
people received, and enquired what the pastors taught. ‘To do no evil’
(they said) ‘and to love one another.’ ‘But what do they teach about
Christ?’ ‘To observe his laws.’ ‘What do they teach about Christ
himself?’ ‘That he was a substitute for the guilty.’ ‘What about the
Holy Spirit?’ One said it was a difficult subject.—They had many
questions to ask about the Bible and particular texts: some of which
reminded us of questions which have occupied both learned and unlearned
at home. ‘Who was Melchizedek?’ ‘Who wrote the Epistle to the Hebrews?’
‘Why did Christ call himself the Son of man?’ ‘What is the meaning of
the parable of the tares?’ and so on. The wife of one of the pastors, a
daughter of the governor, took a leading part in this conversation. She
seemed a most intelligent woman and an eager inquirer. All the people
expressed themselves as most grateful for our visit and urged their need
of help from the Imerina Mission. Mr. Jukes suggested that they should
unite with their neighbours in the villages around and get a teacher
from Imerina. They could easily support him and he would have a good
sphere of labour.” They should also enjoy occasional visits from the
missionaries in Vonizongo. The distance is not great: the influence and
sympathy of an Englishman go very far with our native converts and
encourage them much: and the assurance that they were known and watched
and cared for by their Imerina friends would prove an invaluable
stimulus to their improvement.
Beyond Malatsy came the second distinct section of our journey, a
portion of the Noman’s Land of Madagascar. It took us two days to cross
it. It is usually termed “the desert;” but that name is scarcely
applicable to a land full of valleys, small streams of clear, fresh
water, and chains of hills covered in part with wood. It is scarcely
applicable to a region in the midst of which we found the river Ikopa, a
fine broad stream, falling over huge rocks in noble cataracts and
watering a thousand fair islands, that stud its bosom with bright and
living green. The region is doubtless unpeopled: we saw not a hut on our
line of march, not a blade of rice, not a yard of cultivation. It was
interesting to us to meet this district once more. We have come upon it
in the South; in the East; away in the West; and now in two places in
the North. It is easily accounted for as the border land between the
Coast tribes and the Hovas of Imerina and Betsileo, between whom till
recent times there was perpetual feud; and therefore not to be
cultivated with any hope of profit. It seems to form a complete ring
round the central provinces: and it leaves the sea-coast a poor,
ill-peopled district indeed.
Our bearers made elaborate preparations for crossing this region of “the
unknown.” They spent half a day in pounding and husking rice; in eating
hearty meals; and in sharpening their numerous spears. With a view to
prevent the loss of stragglers, who might be sick or footsore, we
arranged to march in military order: and while my colleague led the
little column, Mr. Jukes and I agreed to bring up the rear. The
announcement that we would do so, gave the liveliest satisfaction: and
when we allowed Mr. Jukes’s empty rifle to be strapped outside his
baggage as a warning to evil-minded persons, there stole over the
countenances of our friends an expression of serenity and peace truly
refreshing to behold. The Malagasy as a rule have immense faith in an
empty gun, even though they have no powder near.
We left Malatsy early on Thursday, July 30th. The need of our
precautions against straggling was soon seen. Within the first quarter
of an hour of our march, seven men lagged behind for no solid reason
whatever. But we whipped them up and kept them to their duty: and we
reached the resting-place within a quarter of an hour of my colleague’s
arrival. On two subsequent occasions we picked up a poor fellow
suffering from fever, and thoroughly unable to manage his load. His
companions readily shared it or carried it in turn; and we were able to
bring the invalids safely in. Had we left them, it is certain that they
would have travelled for miles in perfect loneliness and at the best
would have arrived long after ourselves. It is these unhappy stragglers
who alone are exposed to real danger.
We had a most pleasant march through the solitudes of this “lone land.”
Our course lay up long valleys, over first one pass and then another; or
over hard clay ridges, sprinkled with quartz gravel, and then along some
clear stream, bordered with fresh, green wood. The valleys were simple
and open and very green. The rofia palm grew more abundant: there were
varieties of the acacia with their pinnate leaves; with a few specimens
of the bamboo palm; and of the _dábo_, a coarse fig tree. The bamboo
cane was common, with its tall stalk, from fifteen to twenty feet high,
and its soft, white feather at the crown; there was the wild citron
also. Everywhere the grass was strong and full of beauty. All the
streams too had cut their way down to the rock. The eye could see that
the ground was falling rapidly: we were continually descending the
slopes of hills: the gullies in the red clay were deep and numerous:
nowhere was the ground level, till we reached the rock.
Our first halt was by a pretty stream, under the Pass of Marókolohy. The
men spread themselves out along the water and soon had their little
fires blazing and the rice boiling in their iron pots and tin saucepans.
We ourselves rested under a tree: and a small supply of English stores
on this and similar journeys, tins of soup and meat and vegetables, good
cocoa and first-rate tea, rendered us independent of surrounding
circumstances and satisfied our English tastes. The ridge behind us was
bold and high. When we climbed to the summit, we travelled some distance
along the crest and found an excellent station for observations.
Crossing a second ridge called Kalomainty, we descended into a green
valley with a stream of water. At the north end of the valley the dried
grass was blazing furiously, under the strong wind and it was not easy
to avoid the flames. More than once our men had to run for it, and but
for the hardness of their feet would have suffered from the hot ashes
and stones on which they trod. Crossing a third ridge, we passed down a
rocky valley and entered a piece of country, like an English park, well
watered by the River Andránobé. All day the loneliness was most
complete. Not a bird started from the brake, not an animal appeared in
the wood. The silence was intense and Nature was here in complete
wildness: for untold ages has she had her will: and calm, still beauty
is the result. We had only one trouble, a plague of flies. We were
followed by swarms of creatures with the look of a fly, but with the
power of biting and stinging like a musquito. They settled everywhere,
on the hands, the neck, the face: and unless soon driven off, inflicted
an irritating bite. The men suffered from them as much as ourselves.
Very strangely they disappeared at sunset and only a few followed us
next day. It was just at sundown that we crossed the shoulder of a hill
between two bends of the Andranobe, and encamped on its western arm
under a fine wooded hill.
We pitched our tents upon a terrace which overhangs the stream: the men
lit their fires, ten in number, on the sandy bed, where they resolved to
sleep. And it added to the charm of our position, that as the moon rose
full behind us the whole body of our bearers gathered together for
evening prayers: sang with spirit their plaintive Malagasy hymns, said a
hearty Amen to the words of the 91st Psalm: and cast themselves on the
protection of that Saviour, to whom (they said explicitly) they have
found it good to pray. Let none say that in this prosaic age, the days
of romance have passed away. To me the simple realities of life often
bring scenes as romantic as any which fiction can pourtray.
The following morning while the baggage was being packed, we breakfasted
by the light of a brilliant moon, and recommenced our march. The men
were in good spirits, though stiff after their _al-fresco_ sleep. We
soon traversed a natural park, full of beauty, spread out for miles, and
waiting for a master. We again followed for a space the rocky valley of
the Andranobe: and just at sunrise came upon the most charming scene
which we had beheld in all our journey. We had reached the bottom of the
hill country: and the plain of Ménaváva lay stretched before us away to
the distant horizon. The River Ikopa was turning toward us from round a
rocky hill four hundred yards broad, its bed for miles very rocky, a
hundred green islands rising from its bosom, clothed with wood, while
the rushing water fell in cataracts of foam over a reef of rocks which
completely covered the stream. The cataracts reminded me of those of the
River Máveligunga in the middle of the island of Ceylon. The islands,
rocks and rapids were our companions for several miles, to Nosifito,
where “seven islands” form a striking group in the river.
We now turned a little inland; crossed a small stream, the
Andranobe-vava, and came upon a region of wild disorder. The gneiss
strata were tilted perpendicular. Hills of quartz, gneiss, and clay were
thrown up, made of broken fragments of primitive rock. The boulders were
countless: the country was covered with them, and many were of enormous
size. They were rounded, ground, water-worn: multitudes were half-buried
in the clay. The reason was simple. We were travelling over the surface
of the drift and debris of the higher districts. The present Ikopa
indicates the line of valley down which for many ages the drainage of
Imerina has poured; and we had reached the point at the bottom of the
hills at which the material brought down by the waters has been
deposited upon the plains. It was not the fact of that deposit which
surprised us. It was the extent to which it had been carried. We saw
that mighty forces had been at work; we saw the results of enormous
floods, of the rending of barriers and outpouring of lakes, everywhere
stamped upon this wide-spread scene of ruin. We were nearly four hours
traversing it, in a hot sun: not a stream crossed our path, and our men
suffered much from thirst.
At last we reached a beautiful glen, on the north edge of the drift,
down which was flowing a stream of the purest water. The men were wild
with delight; they just flung down their burdens; rushed pell-mell into
the stream; and drank and bathed and revelled in the water. The fires
were soon blazing and the cooking-pots well occupied. We did not need to
hurry them, as we were near our destination: and a short run of five
miles brought us to the town of Mevatanána, which we reached safe and
well.
With MEVATANÁNA, we were in the SAKALAVA country, and continued through
it to the sea. This was the third principal section of our journey. We
found it well-defined; the granite hills and their long spurs forming an
inner boundary to its broad and fertile plains. It was everywhere
beautifully green. Warm in climate, it gave us back the fan-palm, the
tamarind, the mangoe and the plantain as strong, beautiful and fruitful
trees. The grass was rich for the many herds of cattle: the enclosed
basins and undulating plains seemed capable of producing roots,
vegetables, rice and fruit. But the population is thin and scattered:
the Sakalava villages consist of ten, fifteen, twenty houses; and they
are few and far between. We found that there are twelve churches in the
district; the six most important of these are in six towns, garrisoned
by Hovas, all of which we visited except one. Only in one of these
churches are there Sakalavas. That people have as yet scarcely been
touched by the gospel: it is to the Hovas and their surroundings it is
almost entirely confined. Everywhere we were heartily welcomed. The
people had heard of our coming and had looked for us long. Presents were
showered upon us, including oxen, turkeys, geese, fowls, eggs and milk:
our congregations were very large: our men were happy.
[Illustration:
GATEWAY OF POLES—MEVATANANA.
]
MEVATANANA justifies its name which means “an excellent site for a
city.” It stands on a spur of that inner ridge of clay through which the
Ikopa has cut its way: and has deep ravines on three sides. The town is
240 feet above the sea level: the river is 150 feet. The town contains
168 houses, of which 80 are within the stockade. The governor’s house is
in a broad open square: close to which are the principal shops for
cloth, meat, vegetables and fruit. The town occupies an admirable
position in relation to the country generally. It stands on the edge of
the hill districts and of the fertile plains: it is two miles from the
east bank of the river: it is the point up to which the river is
navigable by canoes. It is a good stopping station for all travellers
from the coast; and the first resting-place to others journeying from
the Capital. It is also the edge of the population. To the east and
south the country is empty. Across the river to the west the district
contains a few Sakaláva villages of three, five, seven houses at long
intervals. On the north at moderate intervals are the six garrison towns
in line, which end with the port and harbour of Mojangá. A considerable
number of the inhabitants of the town are the Hova garrison from
Imerina.
The people gave us a hearty welcome. We occupied the chapel, outside the
stockade, on the edge of the ravine: and weary with our wilderness
journey were glad to secure a long and refreshing sleep. Surveying,
photographing, looking round, talking with the shopkeepers, talking with
the Governor of the town and the pastor of the church, writing journals,
making sketch-maps, and idling generally, made up a quiet, pleasant
Saturday: though our wild friend, the south-east wind, did not forget
us, but blew hard all day, raised great clouds of dust, drove away
plenty of malaria, and made himself generally disagreeable.
In the evening we dined with the Governor. He is an old gentleman, who
ought long since to have been put on pension. But he and his nice, old
wife, were hospitable and kind. The feast was simple and truly
primitive. Roast fowls, boiled rice, abundance of gravy and bowls of
milk are no bad provision for hungry men. The Governor and his lady sat
at table with us, as did three of his officers. We brought our knives
and spoons with us: but the three officers ate out of a common plate
with a horn spoon each. Three other officers sat on the ground and
against the wall: while the cook, who superintended the primitive light,
and evidently had great faith in the usefulness of his fingers, freely
joined in the conversation and gave his opinion upon various matters
without the slightest hesitation. Amongst other questions discussed, was
the important topic of our journey onward. Was it better to go by water
or by land: if the latter, was the journey long or difficult: if the
former, could we get canoes here? We had tried in vain to get clear
light upon these points, from the captains of our baggage, during the
day: so we asked the opinion of our friends to-night. After serious
discussion among themselves, the Governor and his officers delivered the
following judgment. “If you take boats, that is good. If you go by land,
that is good; because you prefer it. What you like, we like. What
pleases you, satisfies us.”
We spent a pleasant Sunday at Mevatanâna. The little chapel was well
filled: our own bearers making a considerable addition to the usual
congregation. Some twenty of them presented to the native pastor their
tickets of membership in churches in the Capital and joined with the
local members and ourselves at the communion of the Lord’s Supper. Mr.
Jukes, who speaks Malagasy well, preached an excellent sermon, from the
text, “God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son” &c.,
which was listened to with deep attention. We had a second service in
the afternoon, with sermons from our two chaplains. But we were not
impressed with the spiritual life of the people. They seemed very
ignorant, very dead. There was no leader among them; no man of real,
spiritual force, who by his example and his teachings could stimulate
his brethren. The native pastor could scarcely read and seemed in other
ways an ignorant man. I do not think there was any school in the town.
We could not but regret that things were so backward.
At times it has been thought and said, that by the route of the Ikopa,
boats and steamers could reach to within sixty miles of the Capital. The
student of the Map, which represents our route, can form his own opinion
on this subject. Near the sea at certain seasons there are shallows. All
about Mevatanána and above the influence of the tides, the shallows are
more numerous and more formidable. Above Mevatanána the river is full of
rocks and islands. And above Nósifito come the great cataracts, from
which upward to the Fárahántsana, the entire bed of the Ikopa, so far as
we have heard, is a series of rocky rapids. Now Mevatanána is one
hundred and fifty miles from the Capital: and as we shall see is ninety
miles from Mojangá. From Mevatanána at least all the upward trade must
go by land.
We now hired canoes for our whole party. We could only find three,
though they were long and spacious: and I felt rather nervous. We had to
stow in them all our baggage and just a hundred men. One canoe was about
forty feet long and over three feet broad. It carried forty-three men.
But we were tight-packed: and it required great care to change the
rowers from time to time, while the canoes were still afloat. Our trip
down the stream was delightful. We left the bank at ten o’clock, the men
in high spirits at having nothing to carry. The river was about three
hundred yards broad; and was shallow and full of islands. Three miles
onward, the islands ceased and we had two long reaches to the north and
west. The banks were fair and green: profusely covered with the bamboo
cane, with its long lithe stalk and its white feathery flower. We soon
began to see crocodiles; and were astonished at their numbers. They
appeared in groups; they lay on the banks in the hot sun, lazy and
asleep: and when awoke by the shouts of our men, quietly went and hid
themselves beneath the water. There was one enormous creature, full
twenty feet long, with a huge body and vast jaws. These reptiles were
visible all the way down. After resting for tiffin at the village of
Ambinány under a noble tamarind tree, we pitched our camp upon a broad
bank of sand. There was abundance of drift wood lying about, and the men
lit large fires and maintained them all night to keep the crocodiles
away.
The spot which we had reached was to us full of interest. Opposite to
the camp was the BETSIBOKA river coming up from the south-east, and here
the two rivers joined together. The Ikopa is a quarter of a mile broad:
the Betsiboka is much broader and in the rainy season comes down in
great flood, so as to throw the Ikopa waters far into the western bank
and produce the broad sand on which we stood. High up in the moors of
Imérina and among the roots of Angávokely, we had seen the fountains of
numerous streams from which these rivers take their rise. At Ambatomena
and Anjozorobe we had seen the Mananára, the Zábo, the Manánta: near
Mantasóa we had seen the beginnings of the Ikopa and the Varáhina: at
Andramásina and under Ankárat, the Sisaony, the Andromba, the Katsáoka
and many more: all the waters of the Anátivolo, of Lohavohitra and North
Vonizongo find their way hither; and now the united streams, keeping the
name of the larger, the Betsiboka, will bear us to the sea.
Four miles up the stream of the Betsiboka and on its eastern bank is the
flourishing town of AMPARIHIBE “the town of the big lakes.” We could see
it plainly from our camp, standing out prominently on its clay hill. Mr.
Jukes had paid it a visit by land and told us about its people. The town
is well built: its people are unusually intelligent and amiable. On
Sunday afternoon when he arrived, they gave him a most hearty reception.
This morning at the monthly missionary meeting, five hundred people were
present. He gave them our salutations and preached to them; and then for
two hours, answered their questions about the Word of God. He found them
most anxious to learn, most anxious to do right. The service concluded,
they all walked down to the river with him and said good-bye. They
loaded him with presents, and sent us most kind messages. They expressed
the deepest regret that they had not met us: and they begged Mr. Jukes
on his return to spend a Sunday with them.
We were away early on Tuesday, and found the river broader, but winding
and somewhat more shallow. The banks were beautiful with their light
green: and here and there the trees were large. But nothing struck us
like the crocodiles. They were more numerous than ever. We seemed never
to lose sight of them: here there was a group of five, there of eight,
six and ten. Sometimes they rose to twenty: and on one occasion on a
broad spit of sand, we found no less than forty sleeping in the sun.
When we took to counting this was the result: in the first hour we
counted a hundred and five; in the next half hour, we saw one hundred
and two. During the four days of our river trip, we must have seen not
less than sixteen hundred crocodiles: indeed my opinion is that the
number rose to two thousand. Some were babies, from twelve to eighteen
inches long: others were strong and active; a few were old, of enormous
size and very sluggish. The skins of the last were course and rough; and
the studs and knobs along the back stood out prominently. Their colour
was a brown yellow. I could not detect among them the _gayál_ or
fish-alligator, so common in the Ganges; they all seemed to belong to
the _magars_ or true crocodiles. The natives of the district told us
that the river swarms with fish, which the crocodiles eat; they lie in
wait to seize the cattle, when they come down to drink; and now and then
some poor Sakaláve, crossing the river, half tipsy, in a frail canoe,
falls into the water and is never seen again. A crocodile moves slowly
on land, with his short legs and heavy tail: but once in the water, he
is master, and his tail is an engine of great power.
Our course to-day was about north-west: and our speed down the stream
about four miles an hour. The flow of the water was strong and in our
favour. We were leaving behind us and on the south-east, a fine, lofty
ridge, with a very conspicuous gap. The hill on the south of the gap is
Namakía; and close to it is Tóngodrahóds. M. Grandidier, travelling from
the coast by land, passed close to these points, and has inserted them
in his map. Toward the north-west we were gradually approaching another
ridge, the bearings of which, as of the former, we had taken at
Mévatanána.
Early in the afternoon we passed a little Sakalava village, named
Kárambíly; and at 3.25, reached the mouth of a small stream, the Kámona,
near to which we knew was the important town of TRABONJY. We found it
five miles inland, in an open basin upon a low hill. The hill was
prettily covered by mango trees, in full flower, by fine tamarinds, and
numerous palmettoes, the fruit of which is unhappily used to distil rum.
The Sakalava town is on the west side of the Hova town. It contains a
very large house, the residence of the princess and head of the tribe:
and numerous simple dwellings of the Sakalava people. To us they had a
singular appearance: they looked like huge bird-cages, being formed of
split bamboo and reeds, and quite open to the winds. The houses of the
Hova town are unusually large and built in rows with wide streets
between: they are formed of wood, reeds and palmetto leaves. The people
were on the look-out for us, met us in a crowd at the city-gate; and
manifested unmistakeable pleasure at our arrival.
From the intelligent and able governor of Trabónjy, Ráinisóamánana, as
well as from his intelligent wife and daughters, we received a
peculiarly kind welcome. They could not make enough of us: and we had
just to tear ourselves away, if we would reach our port in good time for
the steamer that was to bear us home. With the governor we had abundance
of serious talk on many things. He saw the importance of our visit; set
before us the condition of the churches of the district; and sent an
earnest request to the Directors that an English Missionary might be
appointed to instruct and guide them. Both he and his people sent the
most grateful and affectionate salutations to the Society which has so
long been the friend of the Malagasy people.
We were invited to visit the family. We found that their house, built in
Sakalava shape, was spacious and the roof was high. It contained but one
room the portions of which were parted from one another by screens of
cloth. On one side stood a table, covered with bright crockery, water
decanters and glasses. Above it were hung two engravings of Queen
Victoria and the late Emperor Napoleon. A large wardrobe contained,
among other things, numerous bottles of medicine. One of the governor’s
sons has been a medical student with Dr. Davidson and is exercising his
gifts among his people here. The governor told us that the church in
Trabónjy contains 250 members: that fifty of these are Sakalavas and 150
Sakalavas profess to be Christians and worship with the congregation.
All the Sakalavas of this district, friendly to the Hova Government,
burnt their idols, when those of Imerina were consumed. The independent
Sakalavas worship their ancestors and keep to their idols still. There
are two hundred houses in Trabonjy: in the neighbourhood there are quite
two hundred more. And the entire basin must contain two thousand people.
Embarking once more in our canoes, we made steady progress down the
river. At five o’clock we came to a fine bend in the river, under a
wooded ridge; and turning the boats’ noses in shore we disturbed a
“happy family” of twelve crocodiles, who had retired to rest for the
night; and took possession of the sand-bank from which they were
dislodged. Again we pitched our tents upon the upper terrace, made large
fires, and slept well.
We had now reached the ridge, the bearings of which we had taken from
Mevatanána. It was very broad, and the river wound its way through,
having high banks on either side. These banks were covered with dark
thick woods. The air was warm; the vegetation luxuriant. Here and there
we passed long gardens of plantains, the plantations of the Sakalavas.
The palms were full grown and had broad leafy fronds. We saw too
abundance of birds. Wild ducks rose in flocks as we passed on: the
flamingo, with his pale purple legs, rose over our heads: the heron was
disturbed, while fishing in the stream: white storks were numerous:
there were a few wild pigeons: and one little humming-bird kept flitting
in and out of the jungle, curious yet afraid.
Early to-day we met the tides, some fifty miles from the sea. The marks
on the banks did not indicate a high rise of the water, probably from
the fact that the land itself has not yet reached the sea level. During
the afternoon we pulled steadily along a fine reach of the river for
several miles: its direction was nearly north: and some fine hills were
in sight, under one of which, with a double head, was the town of
MAHABO. At sunset we passed along the east side of a large island; wood
and jungle were rich; the mud banks were evidently fertile: the mangrove
was thick with its matted roots: and again we saw vast quantities of the
_Via_, the great Arum lily, which we had admired so much on the east
coast a year ago. At the north end of this reach we turned eastward into
a narrow stream for five miles, and at eight o’clock, were landed in the
mud at the important town of Marovoay.
MAROVOAY contains five thousand people and consists of two towns, the
Hova settlement and stockade on the hill, and the trading town on the
river bank. The latter is extremely dirty: it is full of hides and
offal, sweltering in the burning sun; and is reputed to be extremely
unhealthy. How can it be otherwise? A large number of Hindu merchants
reside in the town; who responded heartily to salutations in Hindustani,
and were greatly surprised and interested to meet an old Calcutta-walla
in this out-of-the-way corner of the world. We observed with regret the
large number of pure Africans in the town, many of them quite young. The
Hova houses within the stockade are large and numerous; the chapel is a
spacious building, and near the chapel and the gate of the stockade are
two noble tamarind trees.
The governor is a most intelligent man and evidently has the interest of
his people thoroughly at heart. He and his wife were extremely
thoughtful and kind. In the morning, before we went round the town, he
and his officers and their families, came in force, with the earnest
request that we would stay over the Sunday at Marovoay and help them.
They pleaded eloquently also that they might have an English Missionary
for themselves. It was hard to refuse. Their arguments were ingenious:
they parried objections most skilfully and turned them against
ourselves. But we were pledged to the people of Mojangá. For our own
purpose, as well as to keep faith with the native churches, it was
necessary that we should spend our last Sabbath in the island with them.
And so, though with deep reluctance, we were compelled to go forward.
Mr. Jukes promised, that if it were practicable, he would spend a Sunday
with them, on his return. Paying off our canoes, we secured two boats,
fit to cross Bémbatóka Bay, in which strong winds and high seas are
often met with. At three o’clock, the kind governor and all his people
escorted us in procession to the river side, with drums beating, fifes
playing, banners flying. We embarked in our little vessels, in presence
of the entire town: and hoisting sail, and giving the governor three
cheers, we started on our way.
Our dhows were no great things for a sea voyage. They were open boats:
thirty feet long, eight feet broad and six feet deep. We stowed our
larger baggage and several men in one, and placed our personal effects
and ourselves, with some ten men, in the other. There was a quarter deck
aft, seven feet by eight. Altogether our space was limited. The sails
were of the usual Eastern type, the lateen sails of Malta and the
Levant. We managed to boil a kettle and get some tea, while going out of
our little river and sailing along the still waters of the Betsiboka;
but it was an amusing affair. Then it grew dark and we settled down for
the night. Mrs. Pillans buried herself in rugs in the hold, on the top
of the baggage. Mr. Jukes, my colleague and myself occupied the
quarter-deck in parallel lines, which like those of longitude, converged
on the helmsman at our feet. A mattress beneath us softened the boards
and plenty of plaids and rugs kept us warm: while, like the Egyptians of
old and the Samoans of modern days, we made a pillow of the quarter-deck
rail, which had but little down in its composition. The night was
lovely: the stars shone brightly and clear. Ere long the wind freshened,
though it kept very steady; and the boats flew along the water. Our
course was for a while north-west: then due west, which we kept for at
least five hours. After a time we slept for very weariness: and at the
end of ten hours, were run ashore high and dry, under Mr. Laing’s
windows at Mojangá, under a brilliant moon, at three o’clock in the
morning.
Our little trip was a truly pleasant one, though we were exceedingly
fatigued all the next day. We could not but feel grateful and happy that
we had suffered no delay from contrary winds or a rough sea. We were
able too, in God’s good providence, to fulfil our purpose of spending a
Sunday with our Christian friends and to enjoy that intercourse with
them which would make us acquainted with their condition and wants. Our
arrival gave them great satisfaction, and they showed every kindness
both to ourselves and our men. Pleasant quarters were kindly offered to
us in the house of Messrs. Porter, Muir and Laing; by Mr. Angravink, the
gentleman in charge of their agency. Our men however were not
particularly gratified with the airy houses of the Sákalávas.
The town of MOJANGÁ stands on a long tongue of land, on the north and
east side of a vast inlet, called Bembatóka Bay. It is in lat. 15° 42′
54″ S. and long. 44° 20′ E. The bay is from seventeen to twenty miles
deep. It is eight miles across from north to south: and the entrance
from the sea is three and a half miles wide. The river Betsiboka enters
the bay by two channels on its south-east and east sides, a large island
coming in between: and so great is the force with which it has scored
out the bay, that near the western entrance, the water is sixty-three
fathoms deep. In the centre of the bay a long promontory projects from
the northern shore. On this were once situated the town of Bembatoka and
the village of Ambátolámpy. Ruins of these places may still be seen:
otherwise they have disappeared, and at the present day they are
represented by Mojangá, which lies much nearer to the sea, on the north
shore of the outer bay. The entrance of this outer bay is guarded by two
promontories; that on the south is named Katsépa: that on the north is
Amorombáto. These points of land are parts of a long limestone ridge,
which here forms the sea-coast of the island. This ridge is capped with
the usual red clay: on the Katsepa point it showed itself as two white
bands beneath the clay, each about ten feet thick. It runs half a day’s
journey, about twelve miles, inland toward the north-east. The district
south of the Bay is termed Ambongo: that to the north, in which Mojangá
is situated, is called Ibóina. The latter includes all the Hova towns as
far as Mevatanána, and the district to the foot of the Namakia ridge.
Like other important places of trade Mojangá consists in reality of two
separate towns, and has done so for many generations. This fact, so
simple and patent to a visitor on the spot, has introduced a curious
confusion into descriptions of its history; its one name appearing under
two perfectly different forms of spelling. The upper town is on the
ridge, and is the stockaded residence of the Hova garrison. The lower
town is the trading town, built on the inner side of the promontory and
on the north shore of the outer bay. The two places are joined by a
broad road running straight up the slope of the hill.
The upper town is laid out with great regularity. It includes the house
of the Governor, now old, with thick walls and in need of considerable
repair. It has numerous houses of large size for the garrison: and in it
are the garrison church and the house in which the Sákalávas have
deposited relics of some former king, whom they greatly honour. The
palisade of the Hova town is surrounded by a ditch and a platform, and
is defended by a number of old English navy guns, 12- and 9-pounders.
Below and around the Hova town, the hill is covered richly with wood.
Indeed there is quite a forest of tamarind, mango, palm and cocoanut
trees, many of which are noble specimens of their class. The
talipot-palms also were strong and massive. And there were ten or twelve
specimens of the baobab, called in Malagasy, the _Botona_. Of the great
baobab I obtained a good photograph: the tree is over sixty feet high:
and the trunk near the ground is forty feet in girth.
The lower town extends half a mile along the shore: in the central parts
it is five rows of houses deep: at the east end these are thinner. These
houses are very light and frail: they have a wooden frame: but the
panels are filled in with palmetto leaves, which form a pretty pattern:
they are thatched with larger leaves of the cocoanut and palm. They are
of course very inflammable and one does not wonder to hear that the town
is burnt down nearly once a year. At the west end of the town on a spit
of sand in the market, with a vast collection of bullocks’ skulls, bones
and remnants: the smell of which was dreadful.
An important element in the lower town is the Hindu and Arab houses,
which are employed both as residences for their owners and as safe
storehouses for goods. They are built on the Indian pattern: they are of
solid material, stone or brick, cemented with lime dug from the hill;
they are of two or three stories; have flat roofs and terraces, and
contain small rooms. There are about forty of these houses in the town:
they have been built by Malagasy workmen, look rough and coarse: and are
wholly wanting in the neatness and finish which are given to such houses
in Calcutta or Bombay. The town has two mosques: one for the Arab
merchants: and one for the Mahomedan traders from Bombay, whose customs
doubtless differ in some points from one another. Rival muezzins,
morning and evening, summon the faithful to their prayers.
The number of houses amounts to 1327: and the entire population reaches
probably to ten thousand. The Hova element is very strong. The Indian
adults are about fifty. There are a few Sákalávas in both towns: and the
African slaves, universally called by the Malagasy “Mojambikas,” are
very numerous. Their skin is very dark: and they have thick lips and
curling hair. But they are not pure negroes. They belong to various
tribes on the east coast of Africa, who all understand more or less the
Swahili language.
The port of Mojangá has long been known to history. The entire districts
of Ambóngo and Iboina belonged originally to the Sákalávas tribes. But
the Arab traders from East Africa and the Persian Gulf found them out
centuries ago: and it was from them that Marco Paolo heard about the
island. Several generations back these Arab merchants made themselves
strong as advisers of the Sakalava princes; and all last century they
had the chief power in their hands. They held the fort on the hill; were
masters of the trading settlement. And of course were deeply involved in
the slave trade. The high-handed proceedings of the Portuguese fleets,
and the later piracies of Captain Kyd and his companions had crippled
their commerce, but had not destroyed it: and as the Indian trade, after
the days of Admiral Watson and the destruction of Saverndrog once more
grew secure, the strength of the Arab trade also was renewed. Mojangá
was a strong place in 1824: the town was then a mile long; and it
contained a considerable population of Arab blood, “whose fathers had
been there from time immemorial.” Radáma had cast his eyes on the
district and in 1824, he had his first expedition down to the coast. He
was seconded with great energy and skill by his brother-in-law and
cousin, Rámanétaka; and Mojangá and all its companions fell into his
hands. The district rose in rebellion the following year: but it was
again subdued, and Rámanétaka was appointed the first governor. The town
is said to have been burnt, a thing quite probable; but it must have
been rebuilt. It was far more seriously affected by the stoppage of the
slave trade, on which Radáma insisted; according to his recent treaties
with the English government. Since then, with varying fortunes, it has
remained in Hova hands.
With the year 1874 the British India Steam Navigation Company have made
an enterprising attempt to increase the trade of Mojangá, by linking it
on to their steam lines to Zanzibar and Aden. Having obtained a ten
years’ contract with the French government to carry the mails from
Zanzibar, through the Comóro Islands to Nósibé, of their own accord they
have extended the steamer’s course, without contract, from Nosibe to
Mojangá: and during 1874 a visit has been paid to the port once a month.
The effort is a most praiseworthy one. It deserves to succeed. Its
success would prove a great benefit to the island. But what are its
prospects?
Fully developed, the export and import trade of Mojangá should include
two distinct elements: the local trade (among the garrison towns and the
Sakalávas of the district): and the through trade with the Central
Provinces and the Capital, Antanánarivo. In favour of this through
trade, is the consideration that the gradients of the country are easy;
and were villages planted in line, as they might easily be, at short
distances through Noman’s land, the entire line of traffic could be made
safe, as well as easy, and the direct connection with Europe would be
complete. On the other side it has to be remembered that that direct
trade is of moderate value; that the bearers are thoroughly used to the
Tamatave road; and that they asked twenty-six shillings a man for the
Mojangá trip, as against ten shillings a man for that to Tamatave. The
chief element of the outward trade of the island is bullocks and hides;
and as sailing ships carry these articles between Port Louis and
Tamatave, they are available for bringing the direct imports at cheaper
rates of freight than would prevail in the purely steam line from
Mojangá.
What then are the prospects of the local trade? Hitherto it has been
very poor for three reasons. The Sakalava population in the whole
district is not numerous: the people are poor, ignorant and uncivilised:
they have few wants: they get fish from the rivers; plantains from their
gardens; beef from their flocks and herds: their houses cost them a
little labour: a few hides will purchase their clothes: at present they
produce little more than they can use: they sell a few hides, a little
rice, a little bees’ wax. The Hova officers and garrisons in the
district are poor: they live upon the public allowances: they are
numerous: they produce very little: the idlers and hangers-on form a
little army: what money have they with which to purchase goods? The
largest portion of the public allowances consists of food of various
kinds: only a certain surplus gathers in the hands of the chief
officers: and they are the only traders. This brings up the third
difficulty in the way of trade: a difficulty felt all over Madagascar.
The number of masters, of various grades, doing nothing, living without
pay, and living on what they can squeeze out of slaves and clients below
them, is countless. Christian justice is softening down these things;
but changes in the laws and life of the people are essential to any
great improvement. And even with these changes we must give the people
time to adapt themselves to their new circumstances: while vested
interests die out and public opinion becomes settled and grows strong.
We spent a most pleasant Sabbath with our friends in Mojangá. In the
morning we worshipped with the church in the garrison: in the afternoon,
we attended the church in the lower town. We saw a good deal of the fine
old governor and his family. And we were specially pleased with the
young pastor, Rakótobáo; of whom Sir Bartle Frere spoke so kindly in his
letters to the Foreign Office and in his address at Exeter Hall. From
the sermons he preached to-day; from his views about church life and
discipline; and from the spiritual influence he is exercising over the
two congregations here, we judged him worthy of all the commendation he
received and even of more. He has only been here eighteen months, and
things have greatly improved.
We learned that the ordinary attendance in one of these churches is
three hundred: in the other, two hundred and thirty. There are fifty-six
members in the two: and all join together in celebrating the communion.
They have among them six preachers and six deacons. There are sixty
children in the school: of whom thirty can read well. Some thirty adults
can read. Six or seven Sakalavas attend worship. In receiving members,
they follow the rule prevailing at the Capital of two months’ probation;
then the case comes before the whole church. In a similar way, if a
member goes astray, he is visited and counsel given him; if unrepentant,
he is dealt with by the whole church. In visiting the twelve churches in
the district in 1871, the pastor formed schools in them all.
The SAKALAVAS as a people have not yet been reached. In some places as
at Trabonjy, a number of them attend worship; but they need to be dealt
with very cautiously to prevent their going off altogether. Their regard
for Christianity is more a sign of their political relation to the Hovas
than a token that the gospel has fairly taken hold of them. Work among
the Sakalavas has yet to begin at the beginning.
We asked ourselves whether we should recommend the Board to place an
English missionary in this district. Our judgment is that such an
appointment is most desirable. We would not urge the Board to enter upon
new ground, and commence an entirely new mission. But all the good in
the Sihanaka Mission and in this Mojangá district has sprung from our
old work; is based upon it; and in order to complete the old, these
elements in it should without delay be heartily followed up. We should
thus consolidate and strengthen the good already existing; we should
gather new fruit from past efforts; and prepare the way for new
movements and local extensions by the native churches themselves.
We had hoped to remain in Mojangá for six days. But to our surprise the
_Malacca_ came into the bay on Monday morning; and would leave again on
Wednesday. We had however only to select the tents and other portions of
our travelling gear, which we no longer needed and which we purposed to
hand over for the use of the mission. Our baggage for board ship packed
into very small compass. We saw the young pastor once more: completed
our preparations; and said our farewells to the willing and careful men,
who had travelled with us so often and so far. Then the school children
sang to us as we went into the boats: and so we quitted the land, in
which we had spent a delightful twelvemonth, and a people, among whom
the grace of God has wrought great marvels, in the face of a sceptical
and unbelieving world.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHAPTER X.
OUR RETURN HOME.
Domestic Slavery in Madagascar—Ancient Trade in Slaves—Rádama’s Treaty
with Governor Farquhar well observed—Similar clause in the Treaty of
1865—Slaves imported nevertheless—Capture of Slaves by the
_Vulture_—Successful efforts against the Slave trade—Recent
Proclamation of the Queen of Madagascar—Our Return Home—The new
Bishopric in Madagascar—Its aggressive attitude and spirit—God’s
care of His people.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHAPTER X.
OUR RETURN HOME.
THROUGHOUT our visit we felt that there is one very weak point in
Malagasy social life, the system of domestic slavery. We saw it; we
touched it at many points; it forced itself continually upon our
attention. And we were glad to find that many thoughtful men among the
upper classes of Malagasy society feel it to be a serious evil, which
must some day be carefully considered by the Malagasy people and be
entirely abolished. It is an ancient institution in the island: and as
in other lands, for the sake of a present and temporary advantage, it
has done, and is still doing, deep and permanent harm. It has been fed
from two sources, without and within. From abroad there have been
imported into Madagascar a multitude of pure Africans, who have to some
extent been absorbed into the community, and have tainted the pure
Malagasy blood. Many individuals in the highest Hova families have crisp
woolly hair and thick lips, even with the high forehead and straight
nose of the Malay races. From within the slave-class has been increased
by captives in war from all the native tribes, Hova and Betsileo, as
well as Sakalavas; also by the criminal classes, whether condemned for
theft and murder, or (in the dark days) for the crime of reading the
Word of God. In general slaves are very cheap: they may be purchased for
as little as ten dollars, or for as much as forty and fifty. To possess
slaves is one sign of respectability: and many a man, especially of Hova
blood, who has redeemed himself from bondage, as soon as he can manage
it, will buy slaves for himself. The general effect of the system is to
degrade labour, to give the community the idea that people of station
should not work, but should live on the labour of others. Slaves are
held in large numbers by the leaders of society: some individuals own
hundreds; and some have even two and three thousand slaves. Many
excellent Christians own them: many pastors of churches have them. And
the churches and congregations are filled with slaves. The system is
local and domestic. Christianity is greatly affecting it and influencing
it for good. As a rule it is not harshly administered. Opportunities are
of frequent occurrence under which slaves can purchase their freedom
either by their own efforts or by loans from their friends. The male
slaves too have a great deal of independence both in action and spirit.
They are allowed to earn money, to carry burdens to great distances, and
to receive the price of their service. Sometimes they give their owners
nothing: at other times they agree to give a portion, say half their
earnings. Sometimes the owners are hard and selfish and demand the
whole. In such cases spirited slaves run off. The country is large and
wide: Noman’s land is not distant; and the injured people go to another
part of the country and settle in the forests or dig new land. Under the
influence of Christianity, and in the absence of any imperative demand
for produce of special kinds, this domestic slavery has become serfdom
rather than slavery: and there are many points of resemblance between it
and the former system of Russia. The most prominent among its evil
effects at the present time is that it encourages and increases the
general idleness of the community, and renders all labour inefficient;
because to such a large extent feudal service, as well as slavery,
denies to the man who would be industrious, any large share in the
fruits of his industry. As there spread among the community a deeper
sense of what is just between man and man, a deeper respect for good
women, slave as well as free, and a truer estimate of the worth of men
as men, the way will be prepared for a right settlement of these
important questions; and the relations of the members of the community
to one another will be placed upon a healthy footing.
The system was in a much worse position in former days than it is now.
Before Radáma I. inaugurated the great change, the trade in slaves, both
for home use and foreign export, was very active. We have already seen
how captives in war, even of Hova and Betsileo blood, were fastened in
gangs and sent down to Tamatave to be sold to Mauritius and Bourbon, to
the Cape and to the West Indies. Radáma, when appealed to by Governor
Farquhar, heartily acknowledged the wrong and set himself to remedy it.
The “vested interests” among his people were the chief difficulty: but
his shrewdness and his strong will carried the day. The Treaty was made:
and he and his people steadily kept it. For a while it produced a great
change on both coasts, and Mojangá and its neighbours lost a
considerable trade. The treaties all broke down in the days of his
successor: but when the late Queen Rasoherina in 1865 renewed a Treaty
with the English government, among other humane enactments, the clause
against the foreign slave trade was again inserted and put in force.
By the Hova Government it is still observed: and there is reason to
believe that by the Government and by the officers and people generally
any infringement of its stipulations is disapproved. But the territory
is larger than the government. Over the unfriendly Sakalavas on the west
coast they have no control whatever. The officers in the garrison towns
among the friendly tribes apparently tamper with the evil. And
individuals are freely named both in Imerina and in the provinces who
are said privately to soil their hands with the traffic and to make from
it large profits. The Arab and Hindu merchants live on the coast: the
Arab dhows run backward and forward between the west coast of the island
and Mozambique: they are said to run their vessels, not into Mojangá
Bay, but up the deep river Loza, some forty miles to the north, or into
the quiet bays away from the Hova towns. And Sir Bartle Frere not only
exposed the system, as the result of his inquiries on both sides the
Mozambique Channel: but he avers on good grounds that the number of
Africans, run in by these vessels, amounts to six thousand a year.
That the import trade into Madagascar has been active to the present
time we can ourselves testify. Not seldom were pure African slaves,
knowing but little of the Malagasy tongue, met with in the Capital and
other parts of Imerina. The people in general know them as “Mójambíkas.”
Still more numerous did we find them in the seven garrison towns in the
north-west. Several came round us in Mevatanána. Márovoay was full of
them. In Mojangá they form a large portion of the population in the
lower town. And they all have a great dislike to the Hovas, whom they
regard as the authors of their exile and captivity. The other proof of
the activity of the trade is found in the important captures that have
been made, since the vessels of the English navy and their crews on
boat-service, have been hunting down the slave dhows during the last
three years. Capt. Sullivan in his _Dhow-chasing_ on the coast of Africa
has testified amply to the reality, the effectiveness and the success of
this work. The captures by the _Daphne_ are well known: others of the
greatest value were made by the _Thetis_ and the _Vulture_ during the
period of our visit.
My colleague and I had just embarked at Mojangá, on board the _Malacca_,
which was ready to sail for Zanzibar, when the _Vulture_ came into the
Bay, and we were invited on board. We found the open deck covered with
Africans, captured out of a slave-dhow the previous day: and near them,
sitting in a corner by themselves, were thirty-seven Arabs, crew and
“passengers,” _alias_ slave-dealers, who had had the unhappy people in
charge. Commander Brooke welcomed us to his vessel and kindly explained
to us what had occurred. He had been cruising about the coast for some
time, and several of his boats were away, examining the bays and river
mouths to the northward. Yesterday morning they had spied a dhow making
for the land, but with little progress, owing to the light wind. His
steamer was soon alongside; the flag was hauled down and his men went on
board to take possession. Having sent away the crew, they proceeded to
open the slaver’s hold. They lifted out several children, and then one
of the men said to the officer, “Sir, these are only at the top: _there
are three tiers of them; and the men and women are at the bottom_.”
Exhausted, attenuated, wholly unable to stand, the poor creatures were
carefully lifted out, one by one, into the boats, were rowed to the
_Vulture_ and placed upon her deck. There were two hundred and
thirty-six in all: forty-two men, fifty-seven women, and a hundred and
thirty-seven children. They had all been packed, like herrings, in the
hold of the dhow in a space, a yard and a half high, the little ones at
the top. They had been seven days on board; and had been nearly starved.
The dhow had all but made good her voyage, when in God’s providence, she
was captured and her victims were set free. I had often read of the
“horrors of the middle passage:” but they never came home to me as they
did then. Poor people! Many of them were injured by their cruel
confinement beyond recovery. The _Vulture_ carried them to the English
colony in Sechelles: but before their ten days’ voyage was completed,
seventeen of them were dead. Since our return to England we have seen
with pleasure that the _Vulture_ and her companions have made other
captures: that the squadron on the East Coast of Africa has been
strengthened: and that the English government and people are determined
to have the trade stopped.
Apparently the Madagascar government and people have adopted the same
resolve. It was with special satisfaction that only a few weeks ago the
friends of the mission received the proclamation issued by the Queen in
November last, under which every African slave imported into the island
since the date of the treaty in June 1865 has been set free, and is
allowed either to remain in Madagascar a free subject, or to return to
Africa. If well carried out that arrangement ought to ruin the Arab
slave trade in the island and completely stop the importation. We may
well hope that in due time the difficult problems connected with the
domestic system will also be solved, and the system entirely disappear.
We left Mojangá in the _Malacca_ on Wednesday, August 12th: having been
in the island of Madagascar twelve months, wanting two days. What a
comfort it was to travel and sleep in a clean, bright English steamer,
instead of in close packed canoes and uuswept chapels. I need not
describe the journey. I may not dwell on the wide Bays of the north-west
coast, the Hova Stations, or the great hills: I cannot describe our
visit to the island of Nosibe with its many craters; our run through the
Comoro Islands; the beauties of Johannna: and the pleasure we derived
from a week’s stay in Zanzibar. Again we touched at Aden, more
interesting than ever in its connection with the native navigation of
these Eastern Seas; just saw the minarets of Suez and the palaces of
Alexandria; skirted the barren shores of Messenia; saw the spires of
Loretto; and were rowed along the canals of Venice; and at length were
welcomed once more to home and work in London, on the evening of
Tuesday, Sept. 22nd, after an absence of fifteen months.
My visit to Madagascar not merely afforded me intense pleasure; it gave
me a very high idea of the spiritual work going on amongst its people.
From reading and correspondence that work had for years appeared to me,
as to others, truly marvellous. I found it all that I had hoped, and
even more. In certain respects its form differed from what I looked for:
the outward civilisation of the Malagasy was less advanced. But the tide
of Chrstian life through all the Central Provinces and its offshoots was
flowing wider, deeper, stronger than I had imagined. The Christian
renovation of the Malagasy people is truly the work of God; and by the
direct use of his own instruments, the teaching of the Word, the
bestowment of gracious gifts, and the discipline of sorrow, the Holy
Ghost has long been leading, not individuals only, but multitudes of the
nation toward himself. It was a source of the greatest satisfaction to
my colleague and myself that in the spirit and the aims of the four
evangelical missions working side by side in Imerina, we found nothing
to mar that Divine work, but every thing to carry it forward, in
dependence upon the Saviour’s blessing and to his praise. And what we
desire and hope for these Malagasy converts is that they may grow up
unto the full stature of men in Christ Jesus, not as a branch of any
English Church or Denomination, but as a veritable Malagasy Church,
organised in a way natural to itself, worshipping God in its own
fashion, and offering its own contribution of national life and faith
and love at the feet of the Saviour.
Therefore it is that we join heartily in the objections which have been
offered by many Christian Churches in England, though offered
unsuccessfully, against the attempt which has been made to turn aside
our Malagasy Churches from their simple faith, and annex them to a
foreign institution, the Episcopal Church of England. So far as a
Bishopric in Madagascar or the visits of a Bishop from Mauritius, were
intended to complete the framework of the Episcopal Churches and
congregations gathered in the island, while the necessary arrangements
involved no attack upon churches which had long preceded them, the
Directors of the London Missionary Society and other Christian men
declined to interfere. But established as that Bishopric has now been,
in the face of remonstrance, planted as it is in the very midst of our
oldest churches, with the avowed purpose of “showing” to those churches
“a more excellent way,” the way of the Church of England, they regard it
as an intrusion, they regard it as an aggression; they hold it therefore
to be an injustice to themselves; and they hold it to be a great wrong
to the native churches. If the missionaries of the many churches of
Christendom, labouring in foreign countries, have learned one lesson
more than another in their common toil, it is this, not to trouble their
children in the faith, the converts new from heathenism, with outside
questions of church order, but to do their utmost to lead them to the
Saviour and the highest forms of inner spiritual life. It cannot
therefore be otherwise than a wrong, a hindrance and an “offence” to
these “little ones,” when another Englishman enters among these churches
and says: “I alone teach and hold Christianity in the true way: your
missionaries are not authorised teachers; I cannot worship with them or
attend their prayer-meetings; and so long as you do not join me as your
Bishop, I cannot worship in your churches or pray with you.” The
advocates of this project little know the intensity of disapproval with
which it has been regarded by all churches in Great Britain outside
their own. I have talked with many laymen of the Church of England
respecting the scheme. I have never heard one of them defend or approve
it.
I feel objection to it the more strongly, that it ignores entirely the
past history of the mission and the mode in which God himself has been
dealing with his Malagasy children. Nothing more instructive than that
method has been seen in the history of Christianity. He has led them
himself; and has guided them, sustained them, moulded them, taught them,
in ways so simple, so efficient, so loving, that his work and its fruit
are at this hour the joy and the praise of the whole Christian Church.
Stereotyped systems seem to me wholly out of place among a people so
directed. Indeed stereotyped methods in missionary work ought everywhere
to be carefully avoided. “I BELIEVE IN THE HOLY GHOST.” I believe that
He lives still in the church as the guide and helper of all who work for
Him: and that it is when we appeal to Him most fully and cast ourselves
upon Him most freely, that He will “make all grace abound” to his
children, and varied as the works of creation among which they dwell, He
will make the scenes, the history, the fruitfulness of the churches
which He gathers around the Cross of Christ.
Let us then fearlessly and lovingly commit these Malagasy converts and
churches into His hands. He can preserve them from all evil. He knows
them well and has loved them long. He brought their fathers across the
sea to raise up a people whose Christian faithfulness all tribes and
tongues should know. He formed their land and endowed it with its many
rich resources for their good. He pours the sun-flood on the moist, warm
earth, breathes over field and forest in the summer days rich airs like
fragrant wine, and sends on all the toil and all the prayer of his
struggling children Divine benediction and peace. He has never forgotten
earing and harvest; he maketh grass to grow for the cattle, and herb for
the service of man; and fills all hearts with food and gladness
throughout the varied seasons of the revolving year. The towering palm
with its feathery crown, the massive breadfruit, the lithe bamboo with
its trembling leaves, and the tall tree-fern with its shady fronds, grow
at His bidding. He clothes the huge timber-trees with moss and lichen,
binds together their massive arms with the tough, pliant creeper, or
covers them with ferns, or brightens their sombre hue with myriads of
orchids and their soft waxy flowers. All living creatures are His daily
care: the creeping lizard and the spotted snake, the great spider with
his silver coat, and the locust-clouds, whirring as they fly. He made
the gentle lemur with its ring of fur, the little aye-aye that gropes
for its rich morsels in the darkness, and the huge butterflies which
flit joyously in the sun. The forces of nature are under His command. He
lays His hand upon the violet lightning; He guides the course of the
great waterspouts; forms in the upper sky the rattling hail; and arches
the drenched earth with the warm radiance of His promised bow.
He who has given all this, shall He not give still more? “Is not the
life more than meat, and the body than raiment?” “Man doth not live by
bread alone.” From Him came the Gospel which enlightened their fathers,
and the faith that led them to accept and obey it. From Him came the
priceless privilege of their hard training, their baptism of blood, of
fire, and of tears. Thence sprang the manliness of their children, their
strong convictions, their clear knowledge, and that firm grasp of the
truth from which, like the skin of the chrysalis, idolatry has died
away, leaving the nation free to unfold the wings of a new life, to bask
in the sunlight of divine love, and breathe the fragrance of the upper
air.
The very hairs of their head are all numbered. The Son of God has come
down among them, working for them wondrously, living in them, leading
them onward. Let us pray for them, and commit them fearlessly into His
hands. In the face of all evil powers He has said, “Behold I have
refined thee, but not with silver: I have chosen thee in the furnace of
affliction:” “This people have I formed for myself, they shall shew
forth my praise.” Therefore, “As the mountains are round about
Jerusalem, so the Lord is round about His people.” “The God of Israel is
he that giveth strength and power unto his people. BLESSED BE GOD.”
THE END.
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DUNCAN GRANT AND CO., PRINTERS, EDINBURGH.
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[Illustration]
[Illustration:
THE
CENTRAL PROVINCES
OF
MADAGASCAR
BY
JOSEPH MULLENS D. D.
]
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● Transcriber’s Notes:
○ A Table of Contents entry was added for the map of Madagascar.
○ The List of Illustrations was re-arranged to be in page number
sequence.
○ Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected.
○ Typographical errors were silently corrected.
○ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only
when a predominant form was found in this book.
○ Text that:
was in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_).