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COURSE OF THE SENEGAL, AND DISTINCTION BETWEEN IT AND THE NIGER. —
ACCOUNT OF THE PEOPLE WHO OCCUPY ITS BANKS. — KINGDOMS AND
INHABITANTS ON THE LEFT SIDE. — ACCOUNT OF KING BRACK, AND HIS
LUDICROUS CONDUCT AT AN INTERVIEW WITH THE GOVERNOR. — DEFEAT OF A
MOORISH PRINCE. — BATTLE BETWEEN THE VICTOR AND THE KING OF CAYOR,
WITH ITS RESULTS. — ANIMALS OF THE BANKS OF THE SENEGAL.
THE Senegal, on the banks of which almost all the commerce of
western Africa is carried on, and which has given its name to the
French establishment in this part of the world, runs from its source
for forty leagues or thereabout N. N. W. and then turns due N. as
far as the cataracts of Govina: thence it runs to the N. W. till it
reaches the cataracts of Felou; W. as far as Galam; N. W. to Faribé;
and W. to Serimpalé. From this part it turns abruptly to the S.;
and after several curvations it continues the same direction to
the sea. In its course it divides itself into several branches,
and forms two large lakes and some isles, of which I shall have
occasion to speak.
It has long been thought that the Senegal and the Niger were the same
river; and they were indifferently called by each name. Several
ancient and modern authors have maintained this opinion; and
others have controverted it. But the discoveries of Mungo Park
have irrevocably decided the point; as this traveller has found,
that the Senegal and the Niger are two different rivers whose course
is opposite; the former running in a western, and the latter in an
eastern direction.
In all seasons, the Senegal is navigable for small vessels and large
boats, from its mouth as far as Podor, and even to Domus, which is
twelve leagues higher. It cannot be ascended higher so as to reach
Galam, except in the rainy season, when there is sufficient water
to navigate vessels from 130 to 150 tons burthen.
There are two lakes formed by this river, one called the Basket-lake;
and the other taking its name from Cayor. The banks of the former are
fertile, and well peopled; but the inhabitants being intolerably
lazy, often suffer the greatest misery, particularly when the
harvest happens to fail. They are likewise exposed to the ravages
of locusts and other calamities; and yet they have never had the
presence of mind to guard against such disasters.
The grass-hopper or locusts come from the deserts that lie to the
S. W. in bodies so numerous, that they obscure the light of the
sun. They follow the direction of the wind, which seems to drive them
forwards; and wherever they stop, they spread desolation; they devour
all the fruit, grain, herbage and the leaves, and shoots of trees,
so as to leave nothing but the bark. They are about as thick as
one’s finger, or rather longer; and have sharp and cutting teeth,
the attacks of which nothing can resist.
The Moors are sometimes victims of these terrible animals; but
they avenge themselves by eating them: they carefully collect them,
put them into leather bags, skin them, and boil them in milk. When
thus prepared, they afford a very delicate and wholesome food.
Near the abovementioned lake there is a forest of the finest black
ebony in the world, the wood of which may be had for the trouble of
cutting it, and conveying it to boats; the expence of which does
not make it come to more than forty sous the cwt. Large supplies
might be obtained every year when the waters have risen.
The other is situated to the right of the river, about fifty leagues
from its mouth, is much larger than the one just described, and is
inhabited by Moors and Negroes, who live in easy circumstances.
The Senegal in its course forms forty-one isles. Those in the
neighbourhood of isle St. Louis have been already described; and the
others are not of sufficient importance to deserve particular notice.
The banks of the Senegal are occupied by various tribes; the right is
inhabited, to the north, by the Moors; and the left, to the south,
by the Negroes. But this demarcation is not rigorously observed,
as some hordes of Moors have long established themselves in the
Negro country, where they follow the occupation of shepherds and
farmers, and live on good terms with their neighbours.
The left bank comprises several kingdoms and various nations. The
Yolofs, who inhabit a vast tract of country between the Senegal and
Gambia, are a powerful, active, and warlike native people, who differ
from the other Negroes not only in their language, but in their
features and colour. Their noses are not so flat, nor their lips so
thick as those of most other Africans; their skin is of a fine black;
and the Europeans, who carry on the slave trade, consider them as
the handsomest Negroes on that part of the continent. These people
are divided into several kingdoms or independent states, which are
frequently at war with each other, or with their neighbours. Their
religion is that of Mahomet; and their manners, superstitions,
and forms of government, bear a perfect resemblance to those of
the Mandingos already described. They excel the latter in the art
of manufacturing cotton, and they also spin the finest wool, which
they card and weave into broad cloths. I have spoken of their dress
and language in an early part of the present work.
King Brack, the sovereign of Hoval, has an absolute power over
his subjects, and can reduce them to slavery, or sell them with
impunity. He is the owner of all the lands; and those which he has
chosen for himself, are cultivated by any of the subjects whom he
may fix on. During the journies which he makes, he is kept, and his
expences are defrayed by his people. His revenues certainly are
not considerable; but he wants for nothing. This prince receives
annually from France, a duty in money, to the amount of 4915 livres.
In time of war all his subjects are obliged to take up arms at their
own expence; the chiefs of each village conduct their troops, and
unite round the prince. The greatest portion of this undisciplined
military force is the cavalry. They march without provisions,
and have no other advantage than what they derive from spoliation,
of which the king has the greatest share. The princes and chiefs
have nearly an equal portion, and they all profit more or less by
the spoils of the vanquished party. The value and importance of
such booty depend on the number of men taken and made slaves at the
time of the engagement; and a single battle decides the fate of the
country. The vanquished side capitulates in the field of action, and
the conquerors return home; but the conditions being rarely observed,
they cause a new war to break out, which leads to the same result.
I shall give a few particulars of the manners and customs of king
Brack, which I observed during an interview that I had with him at
his express desire.
In the beginning of April 1788, I made a journey to Podor, with
the intention of reconnoitering the coast, ascertaining the course
of the river, and making some regulations in the gum-trade. A few
leagues before I arrived at the isle of Toddee, I perceived on the
left bank, a numerous body of cavalry, and was informed, that king
Brack wished for boats to be sent to bring him on board my vessel. I
therefore sent two canoes, which returned with the king, five of his
ministers, and four of his musicians. As soon as the prince embarked,
I saluted him with nine pieces of cannon; and on reaching the ship,
I paid him every attention which could flatter and please him.
His majesty was dressed in a white shirt, which hung down to his
knees and was tied round him by a red swash; he had over it a large
open tunic of a yellow colour; and his head and feet were naked,
except that he wore a pair of yellow slippers. His suite were
dressed according to the custom of the country.
I conducted the king under an awning placed on the deck, where we sat
down together, and passed reciprocal protestations of friendship. I
offered him some refreshments which he accepted; and was presented
with Bourdeaux wine, but would not drink it. He asked me for brandy;
on which I immediately ordered several flagons of that liquor to
be placed before him: in a very short time he drank four large
glasses full, and ate scarcely any thing. On taking a fifth he lost
his speech; and the sixth set him fast asleep. His ministers and
musicians were very sober, as they had drunk but little.
The king while in this state of inebriety was surrounded by his
suite: some of them endeavoured to purify the air by agitating over
his head, and in every direction with great violence, a pagne or
cotton cloth; which manner of renewing the air is in general use
in that country. The rest were occupied in keeping off the flies
from his person, lest they should disturb his sleep.
I amused myself with this ridiculous farce, till my people
informed me that dinner was on table, when I invited the ministers
to accompany me; but they refused to quit their master: I therefore
sat down to table alone. Shortly after his majesty awoke, and asked
to see me, when they told him I was at dinner. “What,” observed
he, “without letting me know? This white man is very unkind.”
He then got up, came into the cabin, where the cloth was laid,
stepped upon a chair, jumped on the other side; and at last seating
himself at one of the windows, placed his feet upon the table.
In this posture, which caused me to laugh heartily, his majesty
was supplied with what he wished to eat, but he would drink nothing
but brandy. I therefore ordered the attendants to present him with
as much he chose, on which he drank the same quantity as at first,
and soon afterwards he fell dead drunk upon the floor.
His ministers raised him up, and attempted to carry him upon deck,
by lifting him over the table; but his majesty was sufficiently
awake to express his regret at leaving it: he therefore suddenly
seized hold of a hare by the head, and carried it with him. I think
I still see him holding the hare like a sceptre.
After my dinner, which I had much difficulty to finish for laughing,
I went upon deck, to inquire after his majesty; and found him a
little refreshed. We then talked for a few minutes on commercial
affairs. Nothing worth notice afterwards occurred till it was time
to separate; when I made him the customary presents, with which
he appeared satisfied; and I did not forget to repeat the dose
of brandy, nor to give the ministers and musicians what they had
a right to expect. All the company then returned me thanks, and
we parted on the best terms imaginable. While he was proceeding
to the shore, I again saluted him with nine guns; and on landing,
I saw him mount his horse, put himself at the head of his troops,
and proceed towards his village.
In the evening he entered into conversation with his ministers, and
wished to know what I had given them. Each of them told him what he
had received; and they all acknowledged that they had been favoured
with a tolerable portion of brandy. This his majesty insisted on
abridging, in order to increase his own stock; and one person only
refused to obey his orders, for which he was immediately seized. The
negro made some resistance, and was wounded severely in the shoulder
by a sabre. The next morning this ex-minister, a man of fine figure,
tall and robust, was brought on board my ship, loaded with irons,
and sold for a hundred bars.
I was much affected at the fate of this unfortunate man, and had
him conducted to isle St. Louis, where his wounds were dressed
and speedily cured. In the end his friends came to beg him off,
and I restored him to his family.
The kingdom of the Foulahs, which is next to that of Hoval, begins
at Ivory island, near Podor, and is governed by a prince named
Siratick. This is likewise a name of dignity, which the king adds to
that of his family: his states are much greater than those of Brack,
as they extend along the banks of the river, as far as the kingdom
of Galam, a distance of 200 leagues; their width is unknown. The
country is well peopled, and the lands are good and rich.
The Foulahs have a deep black skin, and are neither so large, nor
so handsome as the Yolofs. Siratick is more powerful than Brack,
and has a more numerous cavalry. His states are divided into several
provinces, each of which is governed by a lieutenant who commands
its army, and whose power is absolute.
The religion, constitution, manners, &c. are like those of Brack,
nearly similar to the Mandingo regulations; but the language
differs. We pay to Siratick and his princes, an annual duty of 4333
livres. The crown amongst the Foulahs is hereditary, and descends
to the eldest son of the king, if he be married to a princess of
the blood royal: in the contrary case, it devolves to the eldest
brother of the king or his nephew. In case of any disputes, which
may afterwards happen, the great people unite, and elect a king;
but they can only take him from amongst the reigning family.
In my time this country was governed by a Marabou negro, named
_Almamy Abdulkader_: This prince had a very high character for his
sanctity and valour, and had the absolute confidence of his own
subjects, as well as of the neighbouring states; insomuch that
people came from all parts to buy his _gris-gris_, and kiss his
feet. He had reason to complain of Alikoury, a Moorish king of the
Trarzas tribe, and marched against him with a numerous army: in his
way he passed through the states of Hamet Mocktar, another Moorish
prince, who was king of the Bracknas, formed an alliance with him,
and at length arrived on the territories of Alikoury. This Moorish
prince met his enemies, fought valiantly, and was killed; on which
Almamy returned more powerful and revered than ever.
Alikoury was with me at isle St. Louis, when he was informed of the
march of Almamy: he immediately set off with the utmost calmness,
though without dissimulating as to the danger with which he was
threatened; and took of me his last farewell. This brave man
foresaw his destiny, and might have avoided it by retreating to
the desert; but flight with him would have been cowardice, and he
preferred death.
After this event Damel, king of Cayor, who was jealous of the power
of Almamy, and of his influence over other states, was invaded by
him and personally insulted. The following is the manner in which
this event has been related. Almamy set no bounds to the authority
which he had usurped, till his successes and the flatterers to
whom he listened, had nearly cost him his head. One day he sent an
ambassador to Damel, accompanied by two men, each of which carried
a large sabre fixed to the end of pole. On obtaining an audience,
the ambassador stated the intention of his master, and on laying
the two blades before him said, “with this weapon Almamy will
shave the head of Damel, if he, like a true Mussulman, refuses to
acknowledge himself his vassal; and with this Almamy will cut the
throat of Damel, if he refuse to subscribe to those conditions.”
Damel answered coldly, that he had no choice to make; and that he
would neither have his head shaved, nor his throat cut. He then
politely dismissed the ambassador.
Almamy was irritated at this unexpected resistance; and putting
himself at the head of a powerful army, he entered the states of
Damel. On his approach, the inhabitants of the towns and villages
stopped up their wells, destroyed their stores, and abandoned their
houses; he therefore marched from place to place, without meeting
with any opposition. Nevertheless his army suffered greatly for want
of water, and many soldiers dropped dead on the road. At length he
conducted his forces to a wood where he found water: the soldiers
then allayed their thirst, and overcome with fatigue, laid down,
and fell asleep. In this situation they were attacked by Damel,
and completely defeated; many were trodden to death by the horses;
others who attempted to escape were killed, and the remainder made
prisoners. Almamy himself was made a slave, and taken before Damel,
whom he had dared to threaten: he prostrated himself upon the ground
before this generous king, who, instead of running him through
with his lance, as is the custom in such cases, regarded him with
pity, and said, “if I were in your place, what would you do to
me?” “I would kill you,” replied Almamy, with much firmness,
“and I know that is the fate which I am to expect.” “No,”
replied Damel,“my lance is tinged with the blood of your subjects
killed in battle; and I will not stain it deeper. The dipping of
it in your’s would not restore my towns, or give life to the
men who died in the wood. You shall not therefore die by my hand;
but I shall keep you, till I am certain that your presence in your
own states will no more be dangerous to your neighbours.” Almamy
after this remained prisoner at the court of Damel for about three
months; and instead of being reduced to the condition of a slave, was
treated with the greatest distinction. At the end of that period,
Damel yielded to the solicitations of the subjects of Almamy,
and gave them back their king.
Almamy profited by this lesson: he governed with more prudence
and wisdom; never disturbed his neighbours, but rendered his own
people happy.
From the details which I have given, it will be seen, that the
soil on all this side of the Senegal is of the richest kind, and
gives food to a vast number of wild animals. There are besides
abundance of oxen, sheep, poultry, and fish. Amongst the domestic
animals is the camel: it carries great burdens, and is patient and
submissive. They cause it to undergo great fatigues, and to travel
several months together over burning sands, with very little food
or water; its milk furnishes excellent drink; the Moors even drink
its urine, and its flesh is their principal food.
The horses of this country are generally smaller than those of
Europe; but they are well made, strong, active, and cunning.
The most remarkable of the wild animals, are the elephant, lion,
and tiger: the wild boar, buffalo, tiger-cat, civet, gazelle,
panther, leopard, stag, hind, and common deer are equally numerous.
The elephant is celebrated for its sagacity, docility, courage,
strength, and size, and particularly for its attachment to its
owner. The Africans have been mistaken in, or they despise the
benevolent disposition of this animal; and instead of endeavouring
to tame it, and apply it to useful purposes, they hunt it, kill it,
eat its flesh, and sell its teeth.
The country also contains a vast number of apes of a small species:
those of Galam are larger; the people often go into the woods
to amuse themselves with their tricks. When they wish for young
ones in order to tame them, they hunt the dams, which always carry
their young in their arms: they fire at them, and the dam generally
falls either dead or mortally wounded, pressing her young to her
bosom. The hunter then takes it from the mother, which, if not dead,
expires through despair.
After the accounts of Buffon and Daubenton, nothing remains for me
to say of the lion, tiger, &c. The river horse which I have already
described, is common in the Senegal.
The birds of Africa have likewise been described by several
naturalists. The paroquets of the Senegal are not esteemed: they
speak with difficulty, and pronounce badly; in fact this is a
heavy, melancholy, and stupid bird. A species, however, unknown
either at Senegal or in Europe, was discovered by chance during my
governorship, in the isle of Sor: it was a young bird, and as yellow
as a lemon. A Negro made me a present of it; I reared it with care,
and in a short time it began to speak, but its voice was broken
and harsh. As it grew up it acquired a few green feathers; but the
yellow colour was always predominant. In the course of time it spoke
much better than at first. This extraordinary bird which I wished
to present to our naturalists, came to an unfortunate end. Being
saved with me at the time of my shipwreck on the coast of Wales,
it was seized and eaten by a cat on the very night of my landing.
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