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DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLE OF BULAM. — ITS ADVANTAGES AND
PRODUCTIONS. — ORIGIN AND FAILURE OF THE ENGLISH ESTABLISHMENT. —
RIVERS WHICH FORM THE ARCHIPELAGOS OF THE BISSAGOS, WITH SOME
PARTICULARS OF THE PEOPLE WHO RESIDE ON THEIR BANKS. — PARTICULARS
OF THE KINGDOM OF CABO, AND ITS SOVEREIGN. — COMMERCIAL ADVANTAGES
OF THE VILLAGE OF GESVES, AND THE KINGDOM OF GUENALA.
THE isle of Bulam is situated in 11° 18′ 6″ lat. and 17°
19′ long. It was discovered by the French, who frequented
it for a long time, and examined it in every direction, without
forming any establishment upon it, though they always intended the
contrary. Some of the plans, however, were badly conceived, having
originated with men who possessed no knowledge of the country;
while others indicated objects of the greatest advantage: amongst
the latter were those of M. Brue at the beginning of the last
century; of the Abbe Desmance, towards the middle; and of Barber,
an Englishman, who resided at Havre, in 1787. All these schemes,
however, came to nothing, and are now forgotten.
The island of Bulam is eight or nine leagues long from east to west,
about five leagues in breadth from north to south; and between
twenty-five and thirty in circumference: it is only separated from
the main land by a channel, which forms the harbour at the east
end. It is contiguous to many navigable rivers, which ascend to a
vast distance in the continent and offer the greatest commercial
advantages. The climate is better than that of most of the West
India Islands, and is only unhealthy where the rough state of nature
is predominant: by cultivation and industry it might be rendered
very salubrious.
The shore, which affords an easy landing, is bordered with large
and fine trees; the soil rises insensibly during the space of two
leagues from the sea to a few hills, serving as the bases of some
considerable mountains, which are in the centre of the island. These
mountains are neither steep nor barren; they are easy of access,
and might be cultivated without much trouble; their summits are
covered with trees; and rivers, which always contain plenty of
water, issue from them, and fertilize the whole of the country. It
is doubtless to this irrigation that the soil is indebted for its
fecundity. Palm-trees of every kind, as well as all those which are
indigenous in hot climates, are most abundant. The southern quarter
is a natural meadow, in which are herds of oxen and wild horses; the
former of a very large size, but the latter smaller than ordinary.
In every part of the island may be found a prodigious number of
stags, hinds, goats, buffaloes, and elephants; while tigers, lions,
and wolves do not infest this charming retreat. Game and smaller
birds breed undisturbed, and are seen in vast flocks all over the
island. The shores afford plenty of fish, and amongst them great
numbers of turtle; in short, it produces in abundance all the
necessaries of life: it is, however, uninhabited, and has been so
ever since the Bissagos expelled the Biafares, to whom it belonged,
and banished them to the continent. This was the termination of a
sanguinary war, in which the Biafares being overcome, were either
dispersed, or made slaves, or sold.
The conquerors did not think proper to establish themselves on the
territory which they had acquired; but they repair thither every
year, to the number of three or four hundred, in the months of
February, March, April, and May, and plant fields of rice, millet,
and other pulse. After their harvest, which is always plentiful,
they return to their own country.
From the known richness of the soil it would doubtlessly produce,
without much trouble, sugar, coffee, cocoa, indigo, cotton, tobacco,
and in general all the productions of America. The labour might be
performed by slaves purchased on the spot, or hired at the rate of
three or four bars for each man per month: the bar is a nominal coin
of Africa, valued at four livres sixteen sous, about 3s. 8d. English,
and costs in Europe little more than half that sum. These slaves
would in time have a liking for the island, might become free,
purchase land, and finally be civilized. The navy of that country
which might first form the establishment would also derive great
advantages: the expeditions of Europeans in this part of the world
have had commerce exclusively for their object, and the cultivation
of land or the building of ships has never been thought of; though
in the isle of Bulam almost every thing requisite for this important
object might be obtained. The Portuguese who are naturalized in
this part of Africa, employ the large trees which grow at Bulam
and the neighbouring islands, for making their boats. There is one
species, called _micheiry_, of which they construct their decks;
it is easy to work, and is never perforated by worms: specimens
of this wood have been sent to Europe and America, where it is
deemed preferable to those kinds that are generally used: it must,
however, be admitted, that mast-timber is not to be procured; the
micheiry is too short, and the palm and most of the other trees are
too heavy and brittle. The Portuguese, however, are obliged to make
their masts of palm-trees; but on account of their weight they form
them very short, and dispense with top-masts.
The marshy spots produce some peculiar trees, the leaves of which
are large and thin, the wood is spongy, and the bark thick and
supple, insomuch that it is made into tow. To effect this object
they peel the inner from the outer rind, and the former makes a
kind of tow, which never rots. With respect to cordage, the country
furnishes abundance of materials for this purpose, as it is made
from a species of reed which abounds in all the marshy spots. This
vegetable is cut and left to macerate in water, when, after beating
it to deprive it of the outer rind, it is spun and made into good
ropes. The cocoa-trees also afford a supply for this purpose; the
fibrous substance which covers the shell makes excellent tow; and
the ropes which are spun from it, are cheaper and more in use there
than those of hemp. The natives understand this sort of manufacture,
and the well-informed Negroes convert it to their own use.
We continue to send insignificant expeditions to this part
of the world, and trade in slaves, wax, ivory, hides, cotton,
ostrich-feathers, and gold; but fortunate will that nation be,
which shall establish a powerful colony in the isle of Bulam.
The English, in 1792, were the first who made an attempt at an
establishment of this description: they formed an association, and
raised by subscription a sum of 9,000l. sterling; each subscriber
giving 50l. for 300 acres of arable land in the island. They sent
off three ships, which carried nearly 300 colonists, and a variety
of articles necessary for their establishment.
The principal objects to this association was the abolition of the
slave-trade; the civilization of the Negroes; and the opening of
a humane and social intercourse between Europe and Africa, founded
on the exchange of useful goods and on pecuniary speculations.
The new colonists were well received by the natives, and particularly
by the naturalized Portuguese on the continent, who had long been in
the habit of trading for slaves. After their arrival they elected
a chief; and their choice fell on Lieutenant Beaver, who proved
himself worthy of their confidence[1]. He agreed with Captain
Dalrymple, who commanded the expedition, to buy in the name of the
colonists the whole of the isle of Bulam, as well as a great tract
of territory on the neighbouring continent.
This project was carried into execution, and the sale was made to
them by three negroes, who seemed to have an equal right to the
property which they sold; the price of this acquisition was 473 bars.
This transaction put a stop to one of the causes of dissension
which had always prevailed amongst the Europeans; it terminated
those incessant quarrels which took place amongst the Negro kings
about the possession of the island, and which always caused the
shedding of blood. The English were wise enough to renounce all
ideas of usurpation; they bought and became masters of the island
by a written and voluntary convention.
The directors of this benevolent association, however, wanted
practical knowledge in such kinds of enterprise. The colonists
arrived in the rainy season, which is the most unhealthy
period. Several individuals became terrified at the insalubrity
of the climate; they supposed that a more extensive degree of
cultivation would be necessary to support them in the colony:
hence they returned to England with their wives and children.
Another cause of failure was, that they did not pay a sufficient
regard to the choice of their colonists: for amongst those whom they
took out were several men of bad principles and immoral conduct,
who excited divisions in this infant establishment. On the other
hand, the leaders neglected to bring with them carcasses and other
materials necessary for building houses, which were indispensable
to secure them from the rain and sun.
At length the late war was one of the principal causes of the want
of success to this undertaking, as it cut off all communication
between the colony and Europe. Captain Beaver in his Report on the
19th of January, 1794, said, that the enterprise had not failed,
but that it had been unfortunate through unforeseen circumstances:
he, however, made the greatest efforts, and his good conduct and
perseverance from the 5th of May, 1792, to the 29th of November,
1793, afford the highest idea of his courage and abilities.
Mr. Beaver and the valiant colonists who would not abandon him,
braved the climate, and resisted the repeated attacks of the
inhabitants of the Bissagos, by whom they were often disturbed,
though they always repelled them with loss. These Negroes consider
the island of Bulam a part of their domain. It would be difficult
to persuade them to the contrary; but their forbearance might be
purchased at a trifling rate; and this mode is preferable to a
state of war, which otherwise would always disturb the colony.
The first months were employed in cultivating a considerable
tract of the island, and in building a large house in the form of
a barricade, which was the general magazine, the residence of the
colonists, and their citadel. The gardens which they formed, were
handsome and agreeable; and different botanical experiments were
successfully made, with tropical and European seeds and plants:
all the vegetable productions answered their expectations, and
arrived at maturity with astonishing quickness. The colonists,
however, informed of the declaration of war, while their separation
from Europe deprived them of clothes, medicines, and implements of
agriculture, induced Captain Beaver to retire to Sierra Leone, to
pass the rainy season. He therefore left Bulam under the protection
of the neighbouring Negro kings, whose confidence and esteem he
had acquire and who promised to keep the island in trust for the
colonists till the termination of the war.
These princes, who were sincerely attached to Captain Beaver, had
discovered, that commerce and agriculture, which increase mankind
and the products of nature, are preferable to speculations which
have for their object the depopulation of Africa.
On the 29th November, 1793, Captain Beaver left the island of Bulam,
with the extreme regret of not having been seconded in proportion
to his zeal and perseverance. It appears, however, that the labours
which were begun, were not entirely suspended till after the war. The
English will certainly appear again on that island; and I have no
doubt, that their generous efforts will be crowned with success.
To return to the archipelago of the Bissagos; it must be stated,
that it is formed by a multitude of rivers, which empty themselves
into the sea. I have already spoken of the Casamança and Saint
Domingo, as well as of the Portuguese establishments, their commerce,
and connections with the various tribes of natives who inhabit the
banks of those rivers. I have, however, yet to offer some remarks
on the kingdom of Cabo, which deserves particular notice.
About one hundred and fifty leagues from the mouth of the river
Casamança is a vast and deep bend of land, which has given the
name of Cabo or Cape to a considerable kingdom that occupies it. It
is said that this territory was governed at the beginning of the
last century by a Negro king named Bizam Mansaré, who lived in
greater splendour and magnificence than any of the other Negro
sovereigns. He had a numerous court, and more than four thousand
marks in table plate; he also kept six or seven thousand soldiers
well armed and disciplined. This king knew how to make himself
respected by the labouring people, and to maintain good order in his
states: he subjected to military punishment such of his subjects as
refused to pay him tribute, or who were asked for it twice before
they produced it; and he had established such a vigilant police
throughout his kingdom, that merchants might leave their goods
out on the highway, without any danger of losing them. He enacted
severe laws against robbery, which were so rigorously executed that
no one dared to break them. His slaves were not chained together;
and as soon as the buyers had fixed upon them, they had no fear of
their escaping or being carried off, as the guards on the frontiers
were inexorable and faithful.
This prince generally supplied the Portuguese in the course of each
year with six hundred slaves, besides gold and ivory, in exchange
for European merchandize: he used to prefer the fennel-water from
the isle of Rhé; cinnamon-water, rosolis, sabres with ornamented
hilts, French saddles, easy chairs covered with velvet, and various
articles of household furniture.
When a white person came to visit him, he had him conducted to
and from his residence, and paid all his expences from the moment
he entered till he had left his states: his subjects dared not
receive any perquisites from the stranger under penalty of being
made slaves. The king always gave him an audience the moment he
demanded it; and it was customary on such occasions for the European
to make a present to the king equal in value to three slaves. The
visits and presents were continued upon the same footing till
the merchant perceived some diminution in the generosity of the
king; when he treated with him for what remained, and the merchant
received payment. When he was about to have his audience of leave,
he would ask the king to make him a present for his wife, and the
sovereign in general used to give him a slave or a piece of gold.
The prince of whom I have been speaking, died in 1705, generally
regretted. But from many private accounts which I received during
my government at Senegal, I have reason to know that his successors
have continued to imitate his just and equitable conduct.
To the N. N. W. of the Bissaux isle is the river of Gesves, which
takes its name from a village sixty-six leagues from its mouth. At
the part where it disembogues itself into the sea is another
village called the Boat, the inhabitants of which cultivate rice
in abundance, and exchange it for merchandize. It is asserted that
these people are particularly famous for their talents in taming
the most ferocious animals.
The Gesves is extremely rapid, which is attributed to the natural
and considerable descent of its bed, as well as to an eddy or
irregularity of the tide which is very dangerous, and is known by
the name of _mascaret_: it arises from the tide being six hours
in running down, and only three or less in coming up; while it
ascends with such rapidity that the waves seem like mountains of
water rolling over one another, and their impulse is so great that
they carry off whatever comes in their way. Hence vessels moor in
these roads in such a manner as to keep always afloat, or to move
on, when they see the mascaret approaching.
The trade of Gesves consists annually of about two hundred slaves,
five tons of wax, as much ivory, and four or five hundred common
pagnes, or pieces of common Negro-cloth. This last article could
not be dispensed with in the trade carried on with the Negro kings
and the Bissagos: there are also other kinds of cotton, which are
bartered, and are of a superior quality. The most certain method
of carrying on trade with advantage, and giving it all the extent
of which it is susceptible, is to have a number of boats, which
should frequent all the rivers and creeks of the country, for the
purpose of procuring merchandize; which might thus be obtained at
first hand, and would deprive the Portuguese of the great benefits
which they derive from their interference.
On penetrating up the mouth of this river, that is to say, up the
curve which it makes to the north-west, we arrive at a village
named Gonfode; it is inhabited by the Biafares Negroes, who are
tolerably civilized, and attached to commerce. To the south of
the Gesves is another, to which they give the name of Goli, which
is likewise inhabited by the Biafares, who trade to some extent
with the Portuguese. The river in question leads to one of the
ordinary residences of the king of Guenala: the trade carried on
along its banks is very considerable, but its navigation is very
difficult, on account of the numerous shoals and rocks with which
it is filled. This obstacle, however, does not prevent the Negroes
employed by the Portuguese from trading continually along it with
their canoes, though the mascaret attacks them in a very violent
manner.
On the shores of this river the Portuguese, and those who pretend
to be so, have established themselves in great numbers: they live
in the most disgusting idleness, passing the whole day on mats in
the vestibule of their houses, smoking and gossiping. They very
seldom take a walk, and never hunt; indeed they take no sort of
exercise, every thing being done for them by their domestics: the
latter are constantly employed in trading for their masters; and
the profits which they derive, are sufficient for the subsistence
of the Portuguese, many of whom even obtain a small fortune from
the industry of their servants. But notwithstanding this, most of
them are so indolent, that they live in the manner of the Negroes,
and even worse; insomuch that they often want the necessaries of
life: they have neither the foresight nor the courage to procure
themselves vegetables in such a fertile country, the industry to
breed domestic animals, nor the strength to hunt game, with which
the whole territory abounds.
One may judge of the apathy of these people by the state of the
village of Goli, which contains about four thousand inhabitants,
who call themselves Portuguese, though there are not amongst them
more than ten or twelve families; all the rest being Mulattoes
or Negroes. It is situated on an eminence and in an advantageous
position; but it has no wall. The houses are built of wood; and
the environs, which were formerly cultivated, are now fallows. The
inhabitants get their provisions from the Negroes of the surrounding
villages.
About ten or twelve leagues to the south of the river of Gesves,
is that to which the Portuguese have given the name of Rio Grande,
on account of its extent compared with the others which are near
it. From this river they derive ivory, wax, gold, and slaves;
the quantity or number of which varies according to the wars which
the people make among themselves. On ascending this river to the
height of eighty leagues or thereabouts from its mouth, you meet
with a nation of Negroes called _Anabous_: they are good merchants,
and supply much ivory and rice, as well as some slaves.
On proceeding along the coast to the southward, and about sixteen
leagues from Rio Grande, you come to the river of _Nongne_; it is
considerable, and extends very far up the country: it furnishes
about three hundred quintals of ivory, some slaves, and rice at a
very cheap rate. Sugar-canes and indigo grow spontaneously in that
quarter, and are very good.
From these districts a salt is derived which is held in much
estimation by the Portuguese, who consider it an excellent
antidote. The history of the discovery of such a great virtue in
this salt is worthy of relation. It appears to have been owing to an
elephant, who when wounded by a poisoned arrow, a weapon which the
Negroes shoot at those monstrous animals, continued, to the great
astonishment of the hunters, to walk and graze without shewing any
sign of pain. One of the Negroes asserted that he saw the elephant
go to the side of a stream, and convey some sand to its mouth by
means of its trunk: he and his companions then went to look at what
they supposed to be sand, when they found that it was a white salt,
having a slight taste of alum. They then attacked another elephant,
which did the same; on which the Negroes communicated their discovery
to the Portuguese, who are dreadfully alarmed at poisoned weapons:
they made various experiments with this salt, and discovered it to
be the best antidote hitherto known. To cure one-self radically of
any poison absorbed, it is only necessary to drink a drachm of this
salt dissolved in water.
In the river of Nongne, a trade is carried on from the month of March
till August, at which time ships must take the advantage of returning
with the south winds. Between this river and that of Sierra Leone
there are four others, namely those of _Pongue_, _Tafali_, _Samos_,
and _Cassores_; they are all navigable, and present great commercial
advantages. The people who inhabit the countries through which they
run, are the _Zapes_, the _Foules_, the _Cocolis_, and the _Nalez_.
The Zapes divide themselves into hordes, who go by different names;
there are for instance, the vagabond Zapes, who have no settled
habitations; the athletic Zapes; the thin Zapes, &c. All these
people are idolaters, though they acknowledge a Supreme Being,
but do not worship him, though they consider him as the master of
all other gods. They are extremely clever in the art of poisoning
arrows, and make use of poison in various ways: they also know
the antidote lately mentioned, and sell it; so that they circulate
both the poison and the cure; their greatest trade, however, is in
elephants’ teeth. There is likewise a certain fruit which they
dispose of, called _Colles_, which the Portuguese are very fond of:
it has a bitter taste, and imparts an excellent flavour to water.
It is not impossible to spread civilization amongst people who are
still savage, nor to render highly valuable those extensive lands
which are fertile, and so favourably treated by nature. Our interest,
humanity, and love for the arts and sciences, all conspire to render
such attempts a duty of morality.
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