He was in a spacious veranda in front of his harem, looking out on the
palace court, above which it was raised for about three feet. Three or
four beautiful hawks were perched near the sheikh, and he was patting a
couple of favourite greyhounds. Below, in the court, stood a
considerable guard, and about the sheikh's person were a number of
subordinate sheikhs. Those of the highest rank merely bowed and took
their places, others advanced and kissed the sheikh's hand while the
humblest officers knelt on one knee to perform the same ceremony. I
observed, however, that great respect was always paid to age in this
little court, for when the head of a village, far advanced in years,
limped up to the _nummud_, the sheikh rose and embraced him, though he
held but a trifling post, and was a man of little personal merit. My own
reception was most flattering. "Ah, ha! khoob! khoob! shahbas!" (good,
good, admirable!) exclaimed Mobader Khan, in Persian--"you are now
yourself. It is long since I looked upon an Englishman, but I do not
forget that they are a great nation." He then discoursed with me about
my plans for the future prosecution of my journey, and gave me some
instructions for going through the Chab territory. Talking of hunting,
and more especially of falconry, he told me that his deserts abounded
with game, and that if I would stay with him, I should see herds of
antelopes fall to his noble hawks. He was curious about our field
sports, but showed very little interest in more important matters;
because, said he, "I am already well informed in all that concerns
Europeans and their empires."
The sheikh is held in great veneration by all the tribes, who fly to
Fellahi at his summons, bringing their own _materiel_ of war. In this
way he can command the services of six or seven thousand cavalry, and
above fifteen thousand infantry, independently of the wandering
Illyauts, who inhabit the deserts of Chab.
(At Bebuhan are some interesting notes.)
The Khans and Meerzas of Bebuhan are considerable consumers of coffee,
but not after the fashion of Turks, Arabs, or Europeans. It is with them
a kind of _bon-bon_ eaten in a powdered and roasted state, without
having had any connexion with hot water. When Meer Goolam Hussein called
on me, he was always accompanied by his coffee-bearer, who carried about
the fragrant berry in a _snuff-box_, and handed it frequently to the
company present. The first time it was brought to me, deceived by its
colour and quality, and strengthened in the delusion by its singular
repository, I took a _pinch_ of the coffee and applied it to my nose,
amidst the roars of laughter and looks of surprise of all the party.
(A _vestry dinner_ in Persia must be one of our _selections_.)
At the convent of Julfa the governing bishop and his confreres have
ample room, plenty of society, and a well furnished table. I dined once
with his lordship and the churchwardens, and found that vestry honours
and vestry appetites are not exclusively English characteristics. The
dinner was spread as usual on the ground, on a large white cloth, around
which the guests assembled. Placed opposite each guest was a plate,
knife, fork, spoon, and glass, a piece of cheese, two or three feet of
bread, and a hard boiled egg. The feast commenced by each person
drinking a dram of aniseed; then came in quick succession mutton chops,
boiled fowls, boiled kidneys, sour curds, tea, apricots, apples, and
grapes, sweetmeats, and salt fish; to each of which laymen and churchmen
did equal justice, finishing the feast with a sacrifice to Bacchus.
* * * * *