On leaving New Orleans, in ascending the river, the country, still the
same continuous flat, is enriched and enlivened by a succession of
pretty houses and plantations, with each a small negro town near them,
as well as the sugar-houses, gardens, and summer-houses, which give the
idea of wealth and industry. For sixty miles the banks present the
appearance of one continued village skirted with plantations of cotton,
sugar-cane, and rice, for about two miles from the river, bounded in the
rear, by the uncultivated swamps and woods. The boat proceeds
continually near the shore on one side or the other, and attracts the
inhabitants to the front of their neat houses, placed amidst orange
groves, and shaded with vines and beautiful evergreens. I was surprised
to see the swarms of children of all colours that issued from these
abodes. In infancy, the progeny of the slave, and that of his master,
seem to know no distinction; they mix in their sports, and appear as
fond of each other as the brothers and sisters of one family; but in
activity, life, joy, and animal spirits, the little negro, unconscious
of his future situation seems to me to enjoy more pleasure in this
period of existence, than his pale companions. The sultry climate of
Louisiana, perhaps, is more congenial to the African constitution, than
to that of the European.
The next morning we arrived at Baton Rouge, 127 miles on our journey; a
pretty little town, on the east side, and the first rising ground we had
seen, being delightfully situated on a gradual acclivity, from which is
a fine view of the surrounding flats. The fine barracks close to it,
contain a few companies of troops. We here stopped to take in some
ladies, who continued with us till the end of the voyage. To this place
the leveé, or artificial banks, are continued on both sides of the river
from New Orleans, without which the land would be continually
overflowed. From this to Natches (232 miles,) the country is not
interesting, consisting principally of dense forest and wilderness,
impenetrable to the eye, diversified, however, by the various water fowl
which the passing vessels disturb, in their otherwise solitary haunts,
and by the number of black and grey squirrels leaping from branch to
branch in the trees. The great blue kingfisher, which is common here, is
so tame, as scarcely to move, as the boat passes, and we frequently saw,
and passed close to large alligators, which generally appeared to be
asleep, stretched on the half-floating logs. Several were fired at from
the vessel, but none procured. One pair that I saw together, must have
been each upwards of twelve feet long.
Natches is a pleasantly situated town, or rather a steep hill, about
half a mile from the landing place, where are many stores and public
houses. The boat remained here an hour, and we ascended to the upper
town, a considerable place, with a town-house, and several good streets
and well-furnished shops, in which we purchased some books. This place
exports much cotton, and the planters are said to be rich. It commands a
fine prospect over the river and surrounding country. It has been tried
as a summer residence by some of the inhabitants of New Orleans, but the
scourges of this part of America (fever and ague) extend their ravages
for more than 1000 miles higher up. A partial elevation of ground, in an
unhealthy district, has been proved to be more pernicious, than even the
level itself. From hence, to the junction of the Ohio, there is little
to interest the stranger, excepting the diversity of wood and water. The
ground rises in some places, though with little variety, till you pass
the junction of the Ohio, 1253 miles from the sea. Shortly after
entering the Ohio, the country begins to improve; you perceive the
ground beginning to rise in the distance, and the bank occasionally to
rear into small hills, which show their strata of stone, and rise into
bluffs, projecting into the bends of the river, shutting it in, so as to
produce the effect of sailing on a succession of the finest lakes,
through magnificent woods, which momentarily changed their form, from
the rapid motion of our boat. It was now full moon, and these scenes
viewed during the clear nights, were indescribably beautiful.--
_Bullock's Journey to New York_.
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