The visitor to Palo Duro Canyon can choose from a number of recreational
and educational activities. Moreover, regardless of whether one visits
for a few hours to picnic along the banks of the river, or spends a week
at one of the well-kept campgrounds, the visit will probably be both
pleasant and rewarding. In the pages that follow there is a brief
description of certain of the park landmarks and some of the more
popular attractions within the canyon. The numbers in parentheses refer
to numbers which designate these places on the map of Palo Duro Canyon
(fig. 2, pp. 4-5). Hopefully, this information will help one to plan his
visit to the canyon and thereby make his stay more enjoyable and
worthwhile.
_Park Entrance_ (1).—
The first stop in the park is the gate at the ranger station (fig. 21).
Here one pays a modest admission fee and receives literature and
information about the park. The park is open every day of the year, but
the entrance gates close at sundown.
_Coronado Lodge and Observation Point_ (2).—
The overlook at Coronado Lodge (fig. 22), located about half a mile from
the Park Entrance, is a good place to start one’s visit. Situated on a
ledge of Ogallala caliche (p. 26), the Lodge is an attractive, rustic
structure constructed of blocks of Trujillo sandstone (p. 22). Its
picture windows and outdoor overlook provide a matchless view of the
canyon and make it possible to become oriented for the descent to the
canyon floor. Large, coin-operated telescopes permit close-up views of
distant parts of the canyon, and there are museum cases containing
objects of historical and geological interest from the Palo Duro area.
If possible one should visit the Coronado Observation Point more than
once during the visit, preferably at different times of the day. Because
of shifting clouds and changing lighting conditions, the canyon presents
a continually changing panorama from sunrise to sunset. Open year-round,
the Lodge offers a complete line of souvenirs, film, and camping
supplies. There is also a snack bar where coffee, sandwiches, and cold
drinks can be purchased.
_The Scenic Drive_ (1-16).—
After viewing the canyon from Coronado Lodge, one should take the scenic
drive on Park Road 5. This paved, all-weather road descends the
northwest rim of the canyon and continues on to the turnaround at Cow
Camp, a distance of about 8 miles. Although the present scenic drive was
completed in 1951, the path that it follows is essentially that which
was laid out by Colonel Charles Goodnight when he established Palo Duro
ranch in 1876. The road descends to the canyon floor in a series of
well-engineered turns, but because it drops some 800 feet in little more
than a mile it is wise to use second or low gear on the descent. One
should also observe the posted speed limits (10 to 20 miles per hour)
and keep to the right side of the road at all times.
In the 800-foot drop from rim to floor, the complete geologic section of
the canyon is traversed, as one passes from the Pleistocene sands
through the Ogallala, Trujillo, and Tecovas Formations, before reaching
the Quartermaster Formation which is exposed in the canyon floor. Each
of these geologic formations is discussed elsewhere in this publication
(pp. 16-28).
_Pioneer Amphitheatre_ (3).—
Upon reaching the canyon floor, Park Road 5 flattens out and from this
point it is but a short distance to the Pioneer Amphitheatre, one of the
canyon’s newest and most popular attractions. Here, located at the foot
of a colorful 600-foot cliff, is a remarkable 1500-seat outdoor theatre
of latest design (fig. 23). Each evening during a ten-week summer
season, a symphonic drama portraying the history of the Texas Panhandle
is presented in the amphitheatre. Information about these productions
can be obtained at the Park Entrance, Coronado Lodge, and other points
within the park.
[Illustration: Fig. 21. The entrance gate to Palo Duro Canyon State
Park.]
[Illustration: Fig. 22. Coronado Lodge on the canyon’s northwest rim
affords panoramic views of the canyon.]
_Sad Monkey Train Ride_ (4).—
The Sad Monkey Railroad begins—and ends—at Sad Monkey, Texas, a small
“community” that lies at the foot of Triassic Peak (fig. 24). Unlike
most miniature railroads, the Sad Monkey Special is not a “kiddie” ride.
Instead, this 2-mile journey provides an opportunity to get away from
the road for a closer look at the geologic formations exposed along the
track. There are especially good views of the Spanish Skirts (fig. 26),
Catarina Cave (fig. 27), and Triassic Peak (fig. 25). These, and other
features of geologic interest, are pointed out by an experienced
lecturer who also presents a brief review of the geologic history of the
area.
_Triassic Peak_ (5).—
Long used by Indians and ranchers as a Palo Duro landmark, the canyon
visitor will find Triassic Peak to be equally useful as a geologic
landmark. When viewed from the Sad Monkey Railroad Terminal, the south
face of Triassic Peak clearly reveals three of the four major geologic
formations of the canyon (fig. 25).
[Illustration: Fig. 23. Located on the canyon floor, Pioneer
Amphitheatre is a modern outdoor theatre where symphonic dramas are
presented each summer. (Courtesy Mrs. Ples Harper, Texas Panhandle
Heritage Foundation, Inc.; photograph by Ron Horn.)]
The lower one-third of the peak consists of deeply furrowed, red and
white banded shales of the Quartermaster Formation (p. 17). Overlying
the Permian red beds are the brightly colored, multi-hued Tecovas shales
of Triassic age (p. 19). The composition of the Tecovas is such that the
lower shales tend to weather into relatively gentle slopes with rather
smooth surfaces. Triassic Peak is capped by a weather-resistant layer of
Trujillo sandstone, and this durable cliff-forming sandstone has served
as a protective covering to impede the erosion of the softer rocks of
the Tecovas and Quartermaster Formations. Although it has withstood the
ravages of time exceedingly well, the large blocks of Trujillo sandstone
which litter the flanks and foot of Triassic Peak clearly indicate that
weathering and mass-wasting have exacted their toll in the geologic
past.
[Illustration: Fig. 24. A trip on the Sad Monkey Railroad is a good
place to learn more about the canyon’s geology and get a closer look
at the rocks.]
[Illustration: Fig. 25. Excellent exposures of the Quartermaster
Formation of Permian age (1) and the Triassic Tecovas (2) and
Trujillo (3) Formations can be seen in the south face of Triassic
Peak. The feature known as the Sad Monkey is indicated by the
arrow.]
Sad Monkey, Texas derives its name from the prominent mass of Trujillo
sandstone at the southern extremity of Triassic Peak. When viewed in the
proper perspective—and with the proper amount of imagination—this
massive block of sandstone bears a striking resemblance to an aged and
saddened monkey.
_Spanish Skirts_ (6).—
Few of the canyon’s features are as well-named as the gaudy Spanish
Skirts (fig. 26). The lower part of this multi-colored bluff consists of
alternating layers of red and white Quartermaster shale, capped by the
colorful maroon and lavender Tecovas shales. Located on the north flank
of Timber Mesa, the Spanish Skirts and nearby Catarina Cave can be
reached by an easy half-mile path. The trail begins on the west side of
Park Road 5, just beyond the Timber Creek bridge located several hundred
feet from the Sad Monkey Station.
_Catarina Cave_ (7).—
A short distance west of the Spanish Skirts lies Catarina Cave. This
depression has been washed out of the relatively soluble Permian shales
(fig. 27).
_Santana’s Face_ (8).—
Like Triassic Peak, Timber Mesa is capped by a thick layer of massively
bedded Trujillo sandstone. On the eastern tip of the mesa the sandstone
has been eroded in such a fashion that it resembles the profile of an
Indian (fig. 28). This feature, called Santana’s Face, is best seen from
the park road shortly after leaving Sad Monkey Station.
[Illustration: Fig. 26. The gaudy Spanish Skirts are a colorful
expanse of Quartermaster and Tecovas strata exposed on the north
flank of Timber Mesa. Note the contrast in weathering in the lower,
gullied Quartermaster Formation and the smooth slopes of the Tecovas
shales above it. Catarina Cave (arrow) is at the right.]
_The Sky Ride_ (9).—
The Sky Ride, located near the first water crossing on Park Road 5,
transports visitors from the canyon floor to the top of Timber Mesa
(fig. 28). The 300-foot ascent is made in ski-lift chairs that are
comfortable and safe. The observation area atop the mesa offers an
unusually fine view of most parts of the canyon.
[Illustration: Fig. 27. Catarina Cave (arrow) is easily reached by a
half-mile trail from Park Road 5.]
[Illustration: Fig. 28. Santana’s Face (left arrow) has been
sculptured from the Trujillo sandstone cap of Timber Mesa. The cable
for the Sky Ride (p. 37) passes through the notch indicated by arrow
at right.]
_The First Water Crossing_ (10).—
As it winds through the canyon, the park road crosses the Prairie Dog
Town Fork of the Red River seven times in a distance of about 4 miles.
These fords, or water crossings as they are called locally, are paved
and are normally safe to pass through. They should, however, be avoided
during times of heavy rains and flash flooding. Because of stream
erosion, especially fine exposures of the Quartermaster Formation are
revealed in the stream banks near several of the crossings.
The first of these crossings (fig. 29) is about 1 mile from the Sad
Monkey Station and is one of the more popular picnic areas in the park.
This area was also popular with earlier residents of the park, for it is
believed to have been the campgrounds of both the Kiowa and Comanche
Indians.
_Colonel Charles Goodnight’s Dugout_ (11).—
As mentioned earlier (p. 6) Colonel Charles Goodnight entered the canyon
in 1876 with more than 16,000 head of cattle. Although he later
established more comfortable quarters, Col. Goodnight first lived in a
primitive dugout similar to the one shown in figure 30. A replica of
this early shelter has been constructed of mud, stone, and logs and can
be seen on the west side of the park road just beyond the first water
crossing (_see_ fig. 29).
[Illustration: Fig. 29. Now a popular picnic spot, the wooded area
near the first water crossing through the Prairie Dog Town Fork of
the Red River was a favorite Indian campground.]
_The Lighthouse_ (12).—
The unpaved road to the Lighthouse enters Park Road 5 about two-tenths
of a mile beyond the first water crossing. Although considered by many
to be the canyon’s best-known landmark, the Lighthouse is actually not
within park boundaries. It is located in Little Sunday Canyon about 3
miles west of the road and is not easily accessible to the average
visitor. Like many of the park’s natural attractions, the Lighthouse is
an erosional remnant of colorful Trujillo shales and sandstones (fig.
31). A similar pedestal rock, the Devil’s Tombstone, can be reached by
means of a trail which leaves the Lighthouse road and enters Sunday
Canyon.
[Illustration: Fig. 30. When Colonel Charles Goodnight settled in
the canyon in 1876 he lived in a primitive dugout similar to the one
shown here.]
_Capitol Peak_ (13).—
Capitol Peak (figs. 20 and 32) is a rather imposing geologic feature
that can be seen from a number of points along Park Road 5. There are
especially good views in the vicinity of the second water crossing if
one will look to the west of the road. Just beyond the crossing an
unimproved road leads to the foot of Capitol Peak. The lower part of
this feature is composed of Quartermaster shales of Permian age and the
upper section consists largely of Triassic Tecovas shales. When viewed
from the proper angle, the silhouette of Capitol Peak is thought to
resemble the prostrate form of a human (fig. 32). For this reason it has
also been called the Sleeping Indian.
_Fortress Cliff_ (14).—
The Ogallala Formation of Pliocene age (p. 23) forms the upper rim of
the canyon and is well exposed in impressive Fortress Cliff (fig. 33).
Although this precipitous cliff dominates the eastern rim of the canyon
along most of the scenic drive, especially good views are afforded
between the second and third water crossings.
_The Rock Garden_ (15).—
Shortly after fording the river at the fifth water crossing, there is a
jumbled pile of boulders on the west side of the road (fig. 34). This
accumulation of Trujillo sandstone blocks has been named the Rock
Garden. Many boulders such as these have accumulated on the floor of the
canyon in ages past. However, most of these have been destroyed by
weathering and their fragments removed by the canyon’s streams.
_The Devil’s Slide_ (16).—
The Devil’s Slide can be reached by an unimproved road that leads
southwest from the scenic drive for a distance of about half a mile.
Composed of upper Quartermaster and lower Tecovas shales, the surface of
this eroded spur is laced with many trails and “slides” that have been
made by previous visitors (fig. 35).
[Illustration: Fig. 31. The Lighthouse, an erosional remnant and the
“trademark” of Palo Duro Canyon, exhibits well the geologic
phenomenon of differential erosion (p. 31).]
_The Turnaround_ (17).—
A loop marks the end of Park Road 5 and the conclusion of the scenic
drive. Located in this area are a number of fine camping areas, picnic
grounds, the old stone cottages called the “Cow Cabins,” and rest rooms
with shower facilities (fig. 36).
[Illustration: Fig. 32. The “dome” on Capitol Peak is a well-known
canyon landmark. Composed of the Tecovas and Quartermaster
Formations, the profile of Capitol Peak is referred to as the
Sleeping Indian. (The “Indian’s” head can be seen in the right
background.)]
[Illustration: Fig. 33. Fortress Cliff is a prominent feature on the
eastern rim of the canyon. Seen here are the precipitous cliffs
developed in the Ogallala caliche (p. 26) and the sandstones and
shales of the Trujillo Formation.]
[Illustration: Fig. 34. The Rock Garden is a jumbled mass of
Trujillo sandstone boulders that mark the site of an ancient
landslide.]
_Hiking._—
There are a number of established trails for the visitor who is
interested in hiking. The more popular trails include those to the
Spanish Skirts and Catarina Cave (p. 37), the Devil’s Tombstone, the
Lighthouse (p. 39), and the Devil’s Slide (p. 40). Park rangers will be
glad to provide more complete information about these and other trails
within the canyon.
_Horseback riding._—
Saddle horses can be rented at the stables located east of the road near
the Pioneer Amphitheatre. There are a number of trail rides that can be
taken on well-trained horses accustomed to the rugged terrain of the
canyon. Additional information may be obtained from the attendants at
the stable.
_Camping and picnicking._—
An ample number of well-developed camping and picnic areas are scattered
throughout the canyon. Most are located adjacent to or a short distance
from Park Road 5; they are equipped with outdoor fireplaces and tables.
Running water, rest rooms, and showers are provided in certain areas.
Campsites are available on a first-come first-served basis, and there is
a 10-day limit on overnight camping. Detailed information on camping
regulations and camping areas is available from a park ranger or at the
Entrance Station.
_Photography._—
Palo Duro Canyon offers many opportunities for both amateur and
professional photography. The multi-colored rock formations, erosional
land-forms, and plants and animals offer limitless possibilities to the
creative and imaginative photographer. Color shots are especially
effective, but a haze filter will be helpful when photographing distant
objects. Morning and afternoon are the best times for picture taking as
the mid-day sun is “flat” and lends little perspective to the canyon
scene.
[Illustration: Fig. 35. The Devil’s Slide in the south end of the
park is an eroded spur of Tecovas shales. Some of the “slides” made
by visitors are indicated by the arrow.]
[Illustration: Fig. 36. Outcrops of the Quartermaster (1) and
Tecovas (2) Formations provide a geological backdrop for this
campsite near the turnaround at the end of Park Road 5.]