CHAPTER IX

THE THIRD ATTEMPT

Early in April 1907, when I had recovered from the poison, I returned to

Oruro, getting there in time for the great Indian Market at Juare. I

bought five fresh cargo mules at the market, and engaged a man, his son,

wife and daughter to cook for me and look after the camp as far as

Cochabamba. The women rode on two donkeys. At Cochabamba I discharged

them, and picked up Manuel’s son and another man to look after the mules

and horse, and his daughter to cook and look after the camp on the way,

and arrived at Mendizabal’s place at Cuti on May 4th.

Mendizabal had bad news, old José Maria Ampuera was dead. He had gone

down one day with a sheep for the two caretakers at Sacambaja, who

signalled to him not to cross the river, as it was too high. He

insisted, and in mid-stream his horse lost its footing, and was taken

off its legs by the current, but managed to get ashore with the old man

on his side of the river. He rode back to his home, got fever that night

and died of the effects a few days after. He was 110 years old,

according to his own reckoning, but Mendizabal said he was probably

older. He was a little deaf, but, otherwise, had all his faculties about

him; all his teeth were in good order, and he had never been to a

dentist in his life; he could eat ship’s biscuits without soaking them,

and take a tot of rum without showing it. He used often to ride down

from Cuti with a sheep for me, and go down the river next day another

nine leagues to get bananas, oranges, pines and other things. But for

this accident he would probably have lived some years longer.

Mendizabal’s Indians now begged him not to ask them to go down and work

at the Caballo Cunco Hill. They said it was so unhealthy that many would

die, and if they were to die they preferred to die in their own homes.

Three of the eight men that had worked there last year had died, and the

dead nigger hill was exactly opposite. They told him they would go

anywhere else for him, or his English friend, but implored him not to

ask them to work down there. However, I went down with Manuel and his

family and all the gear, and Manuel and I went up the hill and worked

alone most days, while his wife and daughter attended to the camp, and

the boys stayed with the mules. The weather was perfect, eighty-two

degrees at 1 p.m., and seventy degrees at 8 p.m., and I sent Manuel up

to tell Mendizabal, who soon came down with the priest and his two head

men. They stayed a week cattle hunting, and tried their best to convince

the Indians that last year was a phenomenal year, and probably we should

not have one like it for a long time; but it was no use, they could not

be persuaded. Mendizabal then decided to send a letter to his friend

Solis at Palca, who owned a big estancia, some leagues from there with

over a hundred families of colonias. In the meantime, there was nothing

to do, but wait.

I often tried to find one of those bears with a tail that Mendizabal

said existed here. Several times I saw the track of what he said were

tree bear, but I never even saw one.

On 4th June Mendizabal sent me down a note, saying there were jaguars

(or tigers as he called them) about again; that the night before they

had killed three mules and a colt, four miles further down the river

from where I was, and that they had laid down poison.

Three days later he wrote again that the poison was no good; they never

touched the carcasses again, but killed another of his mules and four of

the Indians’ llamas. He said he had laid down more poison.

Next day came another note saying that they never touched the poison,

but had gone further up my way, that there were several, and the tracks

showed big footprints, and smaller ones which looked like two lots. He

promised to come up next week and get up a hunt.

A few days later the cattle came out of the forest, and remained about

the beach, showing that jaguars or pumas were disturbing them, and soon

an Indian came from down the river, and told me that if I came with him

for a mile or so along the beach he would show me the track of several

pumas. I went along, and he pointed them out, but I told him I thought

the pads looked too big for the pumas, and were more like jaguars, the

larger ones anyway. That evening about nine o’clock, we heard animals

moving in the bush, on the other side of the stream. Manuel looked

carefully out, and saw what he thought was a big jaguar gazing over at

the fires; he pointed it out to me, and soon after it moved off. I got

the rifle and sat near the kitchen fire, but I did not see anything

again. In the morning we found several tracks on the edge of the forest

on the beach, only thirty yards from the fires. They were spoor of

jaguars right enough, there had been at least two of them. In the

morning the cattle were still on the beach, showing that jaguars were

still about, and in the afternoon Mendizabal, his son, and ten of his

men arrived with several dogs, and pitched his tent near mine. He had

poisoned the dead animals, but the jaguars had left them entirely alone,

whether by instinct, or because they were not hungry, I do not know.

That night at about 10, when we were just thinking of turning in, and

were sitting with our rifles by the fire watching the edge of the

forest, on chance of anything appearing, a big fellow showed himself

about seventy yards off. We could make out the form, but not the colour

as, although the night was clear and the moon bright, he was in the

shadow on the outside of the forest. I had a shot at the body of the

beast, and he turned round sharply, and entered the bush again. We both

thought he was hit with the ounce ball, and in the morning we found

marks of blood in his track. Quite near the place where we saw the

jaguar, we came across the dead body of a big black cow, which had been

killed and partly eaten by the beasts. We cut her up, and appropriated

all the meat, deciding that it was of no use to poison it, as

experience had shown that the jaguars would not return to poisoned meat.

The Indians then followed up the spoor of the wounded jaguar, and we

told them to be careful, and return if they saw that he had gone into

the thick of the forest. They came back and said that he had gone into

the forest, and must have been badly hit. In the afternoon the Indians

and the dogs went along a path at the edge of the forest, which the

wounded animal had made for last night, while Mendizabal and I waited

about a mile further down in an open spot, the other side of an arm of

the Sacambaja. Nothing came out and soon the jaguar was found dead by

the Indians. It was a well marked male, in very good condition, and

measured 7ft. 11ins. when skinned. A week afterwards the Indians found

another jaguar, a female, that had been shot by some one else, and

brought me the skin. It was smaller than the other, but a better colour,

and measured 7ft. 7ins. I have still got both of these skins. Next day

Mendizabal and his men left.

Three days after our big jaguar hunt and two days after Mendizabal and

his men had left, an Indian came to the camp early in the afternoon to

tell me he had seen what he called a black tiger. He said that the beast

was well known to the Indians for leagues round; it was very savage and

as large as a big donkey, and killed cattle and mules frequently. They

were afraid it would take to killing people. I thought the size was

exaggerated, and in fact I took it to be an unusually large black puma.

As the native told me he had seen it cross the path in the forest about

two leagues from the river on the other side and nearly opposite my

camp, I hoped to be lucky enough to get a shot at it, so I crossed the

river on my good little white mule, and walked about or sat on logs of

wood on the banks. About 6 p.m. I was rewarded by seeing the beast. He

crossed the path in the forest, walking slowly about two hundred yards

up the hill. I took my father’s good double barrel sixteen bore rifle by

Holland and Holland, put the sight at three hundred yards, fired, and

missed him; the bullet appeared to strike the ground just about a yard

or two exactly below him. The Indian had not exaggerated; he was no

black puma, he was a black jaguar and seemed to be as large as the one I

got on the banks of the Challana River, which was 9ft. 2ins. long. He

was black and looked in splendid condition, and I thought what a pity it

was that Mendizabal and his son Juan were not with me, as if we had all

of us taken a shot at him one bullet would have hit him. Anyhow, I am

sorry to say I was duffer enough to miss this beautiful and rare

specimen and never had the luck to see him again.

The next morning after my bathe in the river, I took my gun with me and

strolled along a small stream that runs into the big river, to have some

pot shots at the parrots as they settled on a big wild cotton tree. This

tree was a very favourite one for birds of all sorts to alight on, and

nearly every morning and evening you could be pretty sure to get either

parrots or bush chickens for a savoury stew. Before I got to the big

cotton tree, I saw a young bull calf standing in the stream, about a

year and four or five months old I should say, fat, and in nice

condition. He was standing on three legs and easing his near fore. On

closer examination I found that he had been wounded in that limb, so I

thought to myself somebody has been after the wild cattle, never

thinking for a moment it could have any connection with our late cattle

hunt. I returned at once to the camp and brought Manuel with a lasso,

which we threw over his neck. With the help of four Indians we dragged

the calf ashore and after killing and skinning we found that one of my

bullets had penetrated the flesh, injured the bone, and lodged in his

leg. The only way I can account for it is this. When we were shooting

wild cattle five days before, one of the three that fell to my rifle

was a big fat cow, I aimed behind the left shoulder and hit her just

above the root of the tail, breaking the bone. We went up and killed the

cow with a shot in the head behind the ear. There were seven or eight

head of cattle stampeding in a body quite close to us, and as they

passed I aimed at the big cow with the result described, and the bullet

must have glanced off the cow, and lodged in the shoulder of the year

and half old calf. So I had killed two head of wild cattle with one

shot, which does not occur very often, I should say. The wild cattle

live all through the forest round hereabouts; you can see their fresh

dung in different Indian paths every now and again. There is very little

grass about and yet the cattle are all in good fat condition; the

natives say they eat leaves from the various trees and guavas. My mules

got very thin on being turned into the forest to cater for themselves,

and the only thing they seemed to go for was the wild guava. When I

found they were losing condition I sent Manuel’s son José up the

mountains on part of Mendizabal’s estate to cure the mules and graze

them, leaving only my white saddle mule and one of the donkeys in camp,

with plenty of barley in bundles for them. Another reason for sending

them up the mountain was that the dun coloured mule had been bitten by

a vampire bat three weeks before. I healed it up and washed it every

day, morning and night, with lysol and water and plugged it up with a

little cotton wool dipped in balsam, sprinkling the withers over with a

powder of iodoform and zinc mixed, to keep off the loathsome Verni fly.

One day while walking up the long steep path to work, I was stung on the

back of the neck by a big black ant, called tucanderos. The sting was

very painful, and swelled up as big as a walnut, but I cured myself by

hot fomentations, and the application of young castor oil leaves, which

grew everywhere about. The ants measure an inch or more; the males are

black, and the females brown; they are fortunately not common.

On one part of the Treasure Hill just where the big egg-shaped stone

blasted out, there were also dozens of big scorpions, of which I

preserved a few. No one was stung by them. A few days after Mendizabal

left, one of his mountain Indians, who came down with a sheep, eggs,

butter and other provisions, told me that there was a Condor Real (King

of the Condors) which lived up the mountains near his shepherd’s hut.

He said there were several common condors with the Condor Real, which

was much bigger than any condor he had ever seen before. This man had

lived all his life in the high Andes, and was, therefore, competent to

judge.

It will be interesting here to quote what Baron von Humboldt says about

these birds in his book “Earth and Sea”:

“The condors of the Cordilleras are the biggest birds that fly.

They are black with a white collar; the females are just as large,

but are a coffee colour brown and have no collar. They live at a

height of fourteen to sixteen thousand feet and measure anything

from tip to tip from 7ft. to 14 ft. The Condor Real or King of the

Condors is a pure white bird, and measures as much as twenty to

twenty-five feet from tip to tip. In the whole range of the Andes,

I do not think twenty-five exist.”

I arranged to go to the home of the Indian the following week, and he

agreed to sell me a llama for 28/-, which we would kill and leave near

the place where he had seen the big bird, and then I would try to get

him with a rifle. I gave him a note to Mendizabal, telling him about it,

and asking whether I might go to his shepherd’s hut in eight days. He

readily gave me permission, and very kindly sent down his favourite Arab

grey to bring me up to his place, so that my saddle mule could be kept

for the mountain climb. He also said he would come with me both for the

sport, and also to see his sheep feeding in the mountains.

Six days later I left on Mendizabal’s horse, starting after breakfast at

7 a.m. It was nine leagues to Cuti, and all uphill. At about 7 p.m.,

when it was just dark, and the stars were out, but not the moon, I got

off my horse to walk down a few yards for a drink of water, and not

taking sufficient care and notice of the path I stepped over the side,

and slid right down the steep bank, dragging the horse with me, till I

fell up against a big rock with the horse against me. I helped him to

slue round, and scramble up again, and, by hanging on to his tail, I got

dragged up again. I found that I had hurt my back and side so much that

I could not mount, and I had to sit there in my white tropical clothes,

with my big poncho over me, for the whole night. In the morning, at

daylight, an Indian came along, and, with his help, I mounted and rode

the three miles down to Mendizabal’s place. This piece of stupidity kept

me on my back for four weeks, and the worst of it was that I had to give

up the Condor Real, and it was six months before I could do without

plaster or bandage. Three weeks previously a man fell over this same

spot, and when picked up dead his body was in a pulp.

While I am on the subject of the Condor Real I will relate what I was

told by C. Franc, whom I met with his wife and sister at Jura. His

father who was a very good shot, and extremely fond of sport in the

Andes, heard from the mountain Indians that there was a big white bird

far larger than any condor living in the mountains, at the back of

Inquisivi near some old abandoned mines. There were several white-necked

condors guarding the King of the Condors, and bringing him food. No

house was near and nobody was working there. The father, who had a fine

collection of birds in his house in Italy, knew at once that this bird

was a specimen of the Condor Real. He got two of the men to accompany

him and his mule men, and started off with provisions for a fortnight.

They camped near some of the abandoned mines, killed two llamas they had

brought for the purpose, and abandoned the carcasses about half a mile

from his camp. The next day the white-necked condors began to fly down

and circle round the dead llamas. His father and the men remained

watching, quietly, in the camp, and on the third day the big white bird

was seen feasting on one of the dead llamas, with some of the other

condors sitting at a distance, and others hovering overhead. He started,

very carefully, to stalk the white bird, so as to get a sure shot, but,

when he got a little less than three hundred yards away, the big bird

looked as though it were disturbed, and fearing he might miss his chance

he fired, sighting the Winchester at three hundred yards, and was lucky

enough to kill the bird stone dead. But as soon as the other birds saw

what had happened to their King they began to circle round over him,

making angry noises and flapping their wings, so fiercely that, though

he saw the big white bird lying still, he was afraid to go nearer, and

thought it prudent to return to the shelter of his camp in the mines.

The condors came flying round his camp, flapping their wings angrily

against the entrance of the mines. All that afternoon and the whole of

the next day, the condors kept flying about the mine close to the

entrance, flapping their wings and shrieking. On the third day

everything seemed quiet, and they ventured out again, only to find that

all the white-necked condors had gone, and the big white bird had

disappeared too. He said there was no doubt that the condors had carried

away their King. This was in July, 1903, and the next year he made a

special trip out from home to try and locate the bird again, but was

unsuccessful. A Condor Real is worth a good sum, I should say about £500

or more. Before closing with the Jesuits and their mines and treasure,

I will relate three instances of discovered treasure that came to my

knowledge. All three finders were personally very well known to me. The

first concerned a very rich gold mine in Peru, which we will call the

Monte Cristo mine, formerly worked by Jesuits, and abandoned by them

when they were expelled from Peru. A captain formerly belonging to an

English cavalry regiment was staying at San Francisco a few years ago,

and made friends there with a Jesuit Father, who told him he had all the

papers relating to the rich Monte Cristo mine, with all directions where

to go and how to find it. He said he would hand the captain the papers

if he liked, and should he succeed in locating the mine he could

denounce it and give the priest ten per cent of the proceeds. The

captain gladly accepted on these terms, and eventually found the mine

and denounced it.

I must explain here that there are strict rules laid down by all the

republics of South America and British Guiana, which have existed for

hundreds of years, and which are called the old Spanish Laws of Mines.

These rules are meant to prevent mining concessions lying idle, and once

ground is applied for, and old mines or new ones denounced, when the

concession is granted the mines have to be worked and must not remain

idle. Often the owner, who either cannot afford to work the ground or

else has no intention of doing so, simply pays up the annual rent to the

Government of the country, which is not a very costly thing to do, and

then calmly waits for some big Company to come along and give him a good

lump sum for doing practically nothing. This happens occasionally, but

not very often, as Company owners know the mining laws, and most of them

are not in the habit of throwing money away for nothing.

Here are some of these rules:

(1) After a discoverer has denounced a mining property and asked

for the concession, a notice shall appear for fifteen days in any

newspaper of the district. Should no opposition be made at the end

of that time the concession shall be granted.

(2) Forty-two days after the concession has been granted a stone

monument at least three feet high, with four corner stones, must be

erected, and then possession will be given.

(3) Forty-two days after possession has been given work must be

started, two men to be employed to each hectare applied for.

(4) If the discoverer does not comply with these conditions the

mine may be re-denounced by anybody, and the original discoverer

loses all right to the ground.

(5) Anyone re-denouncing the claim must, after notifying the

Minister of Mines or his agent, put an advertisement in any paper

published and sold in the district, calling on the original owner

to comply with the law within fifteen days, and also paste up a

copy in the District Court House. If he does this, and the owner of

the claim does not comply with the law and gives no satisfactory

reason for his delay to work his mine according to law within the

said time of fifteen days, he loses all right, and the mine is then

transferred to the re-denouncer.

Two years after the captain had denounced the rich old Jesuit mine,

Monte Cristo, he returned ready to start work and re-develop the

property, but on arriving there he was disagreeably surprised to find

work going on in full swing. He was told by the manager that his

discovery had been re-denounced by Don Fulano six months after he left,

under the Mining Laws No. 3 and No. 4 quoted above, and as neither he

nor his authorized representative had answered the notice as per Rule

No. 5 quoted, after fifteen days it was made over to him, and he worked

it with a considerable number of men for eight months, and then sold it

to a company for £72,000. The manager said the Company gave him a salary

of £1,200 a year. He told the captain it was very hard lines on him, but

it showed how fatal it was to denounce a rich discovery and apply for a

concession, until he was certain of being able to comply with the mining

laws. The captain was so disappointed and grieved at his loss that he

immediately went on a shooting trip into the forest, where he got

malarial fever and died.

A similar thing happened to me once. One year I bought two good saddle

mules, hired some cargo animals, two men and a boy, and went shooting

guanacos, and vicuñas, and looking for old mines in the Cordilleras. I

was away for four months, and during this time I came across a good many

Indians who lived there with their sheep and llamas far away from any

town, and in some cases miles from the nearest neighbour, and they

showed me many old gold and silver mines and one copper mine. I made a

note of them all, and took samples from each one. On returning to

civilization, I denounced one, not the best, but a good mine, paid the

dues, and exactly a year afterwards forfeited the property through not

complying with the law respecting labour. The man who re-denounced it

put on forty men for six months, and sold it to a Company for £7,000.

Personally I think the mining law respecting the proper working of

concessions a very good one and most fair. You should always be careful

not to denounce unless you know you are going to derive benefit by doing

so. There are many people who are quite ready to reap the profits of any

rich find, but who would never dream of taking the trouble, and going

through the rough preliminary work of finding them.

The second instance I am going to relate refers to a great silver mine

in Bolivia, which we will call San Carlos, and which was worked by the

Jesuits and subsequently lost sight of for many years when they left

Peru. In this case there were two partners concerned, both of whom I

know personally; the one was a rich man who found all the money for

expenses, and the other a well known mining engineer, who did the rough

part of the work, and went to locate the lost mine. After two years

among the Indians they showed him the place, and he was guided there by

two Indian girls. The mine was opened out and proved to be so rich in

silver that in a few years the two men were worth half a million

sterling and over. This mine is still in work, and still belongs to the

finders, whom we will call Don Alfredo and Don Jorge. Don Jorge died,

and left his share to his eldest son, who has extensive properties at

home and in Bolivia, is a good sportsman, and divides his time between

England and Bolivia and Chili. The other partner is still alive and

enjoys the income derived from his half share. Many workmen are employed

on this property, and much expensive machinery has been erected. In this

case no one received any benefit except the discoverers.

The third case was that of a gentleman whom we will call Mr. Clarke from

San Francisco. He got hold of some documents relating to an old Jesuit

mine, which we will call San Martin, and which they had worked till they

left Peru. There were a lot of silver bars ready for shipment, supposed

to be buried in this mine, and he started off with the documents to

locate the place. He found nothing but a big high hill; the place to all

appearances had been covered over by a slide of earth and stones caused

by the earthquake shocks of 1842 and 1867. However, he began the work of

uncovering this big mound, with the help of two men and a boy. Clarke

had a few thousand pounds to start with, and after working away for

fourteen years with a few men, never more than five and sometimes not so

many, and being convinced he was on the right spot, he went to the

States to see his brother, who had done pretty well with his horses in

South America, and try and persuade him to help. His brother, however,

did not believe in this old mine hunt and refused to stand in. But

Clarke found another man, a manager of a big store, who thought he was

on the spot right enough, and offered him £40 a month of his £60 monthly

pay, to enable him to employ more labour. In two years’ time he removed

the big mound of hill and found the mine. Six months afterwards the bank

shipped on Clarke’s account silver bars worth £400,000. He gave his

friend £3,000 in cash, and £1,500 a year for life, and continued the

working of the mine, which proved a valuable one, making his friend

manager with an additional salary of £1,500 a year. Clarke died in

London a few years ago, leaving £2,000,000.

Upper Peru, now called Bolivia, was always considered by the Incas as

the richest part of the Empire. The Jesuits came to the country some

years before the last Inca Chief died, and found and continued to work

many of the richest gold and silver mines belonging to the Incas,

prospecting and exploring the Andes and the tropical rivers all the time

they were in Peru. They thought so much of Upper Peru for its great

mineral wealth that they actually plotted a revolution against the

Government, their idea being to form a republic of their own in the

country that is now Bolivia. It was for this reason that the Government

of Lima, on discovering this plot, expelled them from the country.

The Jesuits never worked for long at a mine that was not a good one, and

in prospecting for old mines the good can always be told from the bad by

the way they have been worked. There are many fabulously wealthy mines

which have been lying idle since their times, and up to the present have

never been denounced. I personally know of several, gold, silver,

copper, lapis lazuli, quicksilver and others. I have a sample of copper

out of a lode six feet wide taken from one of these old mines, which

gives fifty-nine per cent of copper and is still undenounced. Mining

companies, instead of sending men to prospect for new fields, would do

well to send and look for some of these abandoned Jesuit mines.

In the provinces of San Juan and Rioja in the Argentine and in Bolivia I

have seen many so rich that the lodes are actually in sight and no dump

is to be seen. The famous silver mines of Potosi, to which I have

already referred, gave in three hundred years a total value of

£340,000,000 worth of silver, and is still giving £40 to £50,000 worth a

year. The Cerro Potosi is 15,400ft. high, the town 13,200ft., and the

atmosphere is so rarified that many children die soon after birth. The

Indians in this district eat clay dumplings which they put in their

stew. Then there are the silver mines of Muanchaca, 13,200ft. high,

which exported 8,000,000ozs. of silver annually between 1892 and 1897,

till the lower workings of the Pulacago mine were flooded with water.

The silver mines of Oruro for years yielded 1,700,000 ozs. a year,

Colguechaca 1,500,000, and Guadaloupe, 700,000. The most valuable tin

mines are those on the Huanuni near Oruro; there are others at

Inquisivi, Tres Cruces (?), Arque, and other places. I discovered one at

the Tres Cruces that was afterwards taken up and sold for £19,000. The

tin mines of Bolivia are very rich, and the higher altitudes seem to

yield a bigger percentage than the lower, and the workings are more

accessible. I once located a tin property that gave at 13,000ft. 9 per

cent, 15 per cent at 14,000ft., 25 per cent at 15,000ft., and at

16,000ft. as much as 60 per cent, according to samples essayed at Lima.

The same thing happens in the case of gold, silver, and copper; the

richest mines are often found in the most inaccessible places.

Prospecting for old mines is a rough life, but when your journeys take

you along the Cordilleras you are sure of a healthy and enjoyable time

in an exhilarating climate. You have bright sunshine all day and

freezing cold at night. There is a fair amount of sport to be had on

these trips, and it is advisable to take both gun and rifle. For the gun

there are geese, duck, martinettes, partridges, woodcock, and snipe; and

for the rifle you get jaguar, bear, wild cattle, puma, vicuña, deer,

guanaco, and the white-collared condor, the biggest bird that flies. On

several occasions when I was far away from any kind of civilization, and

there was no habitation in sight so far as the eye could see, vicuñas

have remained staring at me, and allowed me to get up quite close to

them before galloping off. I remember once suddenly coming across a herd

of eleven vicuñas, which stood up in a line not more than fifty to

seventy yards off, and remained stationary for quite two minutes; they

were wondering I suppose what object it was that suddenly appeared on a

big black mule. They looked so graceful that I did not disturb them and

never fired at all. I have shot them for their pelts when the Indians

have told me the fur is at its best, and on two occasions for meat when

we ran short; their flesh is not very nice to eat, but not quite so

nasty as llama. I managed also to get three puma on these prospecting

trips; one was a pretty good one measuring 7ft. 7ins. when green,

another was 7ft. 2ins. and the third 6ft. 7ins.

While on one of these trips to locate silver mines and bring back

samples for a German firm, I was travelling one day with fourteen cargo

mules, two saddle mules, bell mare and horse, and happened to be riding

along with a gun in front about half-way up the forest, with my boy

walking behind carrying the rifle, when I heard some poujil. I got off

the mule to get a stalking shot, and on turning the corner just round

the bend came on a magnificent jaguar, lying down sunning himself on a

green bank not twenty yards off. I was much relieved when he got up and

trotted quietly away into the jungle. These beasts will never attack a

man in daylight unless they are hungry or angry. The natives in the

interior of Bolivia near Santa Cruz hunt them with the spear, rifle, and

dogs, when they can locate them in the savannas or grass plains, and the

Government pay them £2 10s. for each skull, as they are known to be

dangerous man-eaters. But they only go after men when they get too old

and inactive to catch wild cattle, deer and pigs. It is also said that

once they have tasted human blood they prefer it to any other kind of

food.

In spite of all the trouble I had taken, I had eventually to give up

the search for the treasure on the Caballo Cunco Hill. Neither Solis

Mendizabal nor I could get the necessary number of men to continue the

work satisfactorily, and we tried several times to form a small company

from Chili to go into the work, and also to uncover the many smaller

tapadas that still remain intact near the convent and the church, but

without success. Colonel Trollope, of Lord’s Castle, Barbados, who was

interested in the project and promised me the money to take over fifty

men from Barbados in 1912, unfortunately died before this could be done.

A well known mining engineer came all the way from Tacna at my

suggestion to look at my handiwork, and see whether he thought what was

being uncovered was the work of man or nature; I have his report in

which he forms the same idea as I do.

Now what has this big cave been dug out of the mountain side for, and

why has it been covered over with so much care? Not for any amusement, I

am sure. The only thing I know for certain is that José Ampuera found a

big gold bell there, sixty years ago, but ceased excavating because one

of his sons was killed by a piece of rock. Then there is the case of the

two mule men, who uncovered one of the numerous smaller tapadas, and in

eight days took out £1,500 worth of treasure. I still have hopes of

being able to bring, say, forty men from the West Indies for each dry

season, May to September, and finish the job. It might or it might not

be a success; who can tell?

Adventures in Bolivia · 第 9 / 10 章