In the present state of science we understand by sugar a substance
mild to the taste, crystalizable, and which by fermentation
resolves itself into carbonic acid and alcohol.
By sugar once was understood only the crystalized juice of the
cane, (arundo saccharifera.)
A few pages of old authors would induce us to think the ancients
had observed in certain arundines a sweet and extractible portion.
Lucanus says:
"Qui bibunt tenera dulces ab arundine succos."
Between water sweetened by the juice of the cane, and the sugar we
have, there is a great difference. Art in Rome was not far enough
advanced to accomplish it.
Sugar really originated in the colonies of the New World. The cane
was imported thither two centuries ago and prospered, and effort
was made to utilize the juice which flowed from it, and by gradual
experiments they accomplished the manufacture of all the variety
of its productions we know of.
The culture of the sugar cane has become an object of the greatest
importance; it is a great source of wealth both to the cultivators
and the vendors, and also to the taxes of governments who levy an
import on it.
INDIGENOUS SUGAR.
It has long been thought that tropical heat was not needed to form
sugar. About 1740 Morgroff discovered that many plants of the
temperate zones, and among others the beet contained it.
Towards the beginning of the nineteenth century, circumstances
having made sugar scarce, and consequently dear, the government
made it an object for savants to look for it.
The idea was successful, and it was ascertained that sugar was
found in the whole vegetable kingdom; that it existed in the
grape, chestnut, potato, and in the beet especially.
This last plant became an object of the greatest culture, and many
experiments proved that in this respect, the old world could do
without the new. France was covered with manufactories, which
worked with different success, and the manufacture of sugar became
naturalized; the art was a new one which may any day be recalled.
Among the various manufactories, the most prominent was that
established at Passy, near Paris, by Mr. Benjamin Delassert, a
citizen, the name of whom is always connected with the good and
useful.
By means of a series of extensive operations, he got rid of all
that was doubtful in the practice, and made no mystery of his plan
of procedure, even to those who were his rivals. He was visited by
the head of the government, and was ordered to furnish all that
was needed at the Tuilleries.
New circumstances, the restoration of peace, having again reduced
colonial sugar to a lower price, the French manufacturers lost the
advantages they had gained. Many, however, yet prosper, and
Delassert makes some thousands every year. This also enables him
to preserve his processes until the time comes when they may again
he useful. [Footnote: We may add, that at the session for the
general encouragement of national industry, a medal was ordered to
be presented to M. Crespel, a manufacturer of arrus, who
manufactures every year one hundred and fifty thousand pounds of
beet sugar, which he sells at a profit, even--when Colonial sugar
is 2 francs 50 centimes the kilogramme. The reason is, that the
refuse is used for distillation, and subsequently fed out to
cattle.]
When beet sugar was in the market, party men, up-starts and fools,
took it into their heads that its flavor was unpleasant, and some
even said it was unhealthy.
Many experiments have proved the contrary, and the Count de
Chaptal, in his excellent book, Chemistry Applied to Agriculture,"
(vol. ii. page 13,) says:
"Sugars obtained from various plants, says a celebrated chemist,
are in fact of the same nature, and have no intrinsic difference
when they are equally pure. Taste, crystalization, color, weight,
are absolutely identical, and the most acute observer cannot
distinguish the one from the other."
An idea of the force of prejudice is afforded by the fact, that
out of one hundred British subjects, taken at random, not ten
believe in the possibility of obtaining sugar from the beet.
USES OF SUGAR.
Sugar was introduced by the apothecaries. With them it was a most
important article, for when a person was greatly in want of any
article, there was a proverb, "Like an apothecary without sugar."
To say that it came thence, is to say that it was received with
disfavor; some said that it was heating, others that it injured
the chest; some that it disposed persons to apoplexy. Calumny,
however, had to give way to truth, and for eighty years this
apothegm has been current, "Sugar hurts nothing but the purse."
Under this impenetrable aegis the use of sugar has increased every
day, and no alimentary substance has undergone so many
transformations. Many persons like sugar in a pure state, and in
hopeless cases the faculty recommend it as a substance which can
do no possible harm, and which is not unpleasant.
Mixed with water, it gives us eau sucree, a refreshing drink,
which is healthful, agreeable, and sometimes salutary.
Mingled in large quantities with water it constitutes sirops,
which are perfumed, and from their variety are most refreshing.
Mingled with water, the caloric of which is artificially
extracted, it furnishes two kinds, which are of Italian origin,
and were introduced into France by Catharine de Medici.
With wine it furnishes such a restorative power that in some
countries roasted meats taken to the bride and groom are covered
with it, just as in Persia soused sheeps' feet are given them.
Mingled with flour and eggs, it furnishes biscuits, maccaronies,
etc., etc., ad infinitum.
With milk it unites in the composition of creams, blanc-mangers
and other dishes of the second course, substituting for the
substantial taste of meat, ethereal perfumes.
It causes the aroma of coffee to be exhaled.
Mingled with cafe au lait, a light, pleasant aliment is produced,
precisely suited to those who have to go to their offices
immediately after breakfast.
With fruits and flowers it contributes to furnish confitures,
marmalades, preserves, pates and candies, and enables us to enjoy
the perfume of those flowers long after they have withered.
It may be that sugar might be advantageously employed in
embalming, an art of which we know little.
Sugar mingled with alcohol furnishes spirituous liquors, such as
were used, it is said, to warm the old blood of Louis XIV., which,
by their energy, seized the palate and the taste by the perfumed
gas united to them, the two qualities forming the ne plus ultra of
the pleasures of the taste.
Such is the substance which the French of the time of Louis XIII.
scarcely knew the name of, and which to the people of the
nineteenth century is become so important; no woman, in easy
circumstances, spends as much money for bread as she does for
sugar.
M. Delacroix, a man of letters, who is as industrious as he is
profound, was one day complaining of the price of sugar, which
then cost five francs a pound, "Ah!" said he, "if sugar should
ever again be thirty sous a pound, I will drink nothing but eau
sucree." His wishes were granted; he yet lives, and I trust he
keeps his word.