The Fish-Market of Havana. -- The Dying Dolphin. -- Tax upon
the Trade. -- Extraordinary Monopoly. -- Harbor Boats. -- A
Story about Marti, the Ex-Smuggler. -- King of the Isle of
Pines. -- The Offered Reward. -- Sentinels in the Plaza de
Armas. -- The Governor General and the Intruder. -- "I am
Captain Marti!" -- The Betrayal. -- The Ex-Smuggler as Pilot.
-- The Pardon and the Reward. -- Tacon's Stewardship and
Official Career. -- Monopoly of Theatricals. -- A Negro
Festival.
The fish-market of Havana doubtless affords the best variety and
quality of this article to be found in any city of the world, not even
excepting Madras and Bombay, where the Indian Ocean and the Bay of
Bengal enter into rivalry with each other as to their products. The
scientist Poey gives a list of six hundred species of fishes
indigenous to the shores of Cuba. The supply of the city is not only
procured from the neighboring waters, but fishermen come regularly a
distance of over a hundred miles to the ports of the island, from
Florida and Yucatan, with their small cutters well loaded. It was
through the means afforded by these fishing crafts that communication
was kept up between the Cuban patriots at Key West and their friends
on the island, and no doubt smuggling was also carried on by them,
until they came under the strict surveillance of the revenue officers.
The long marble counter of the Marti fish-market, at the end of
Mercaderes Street, affords a display of the finny tribe which we have
never seen equaled elsewhere. Every hue and combination of iris
colors is represented, while the variety and oddity of shapes is
ludicrous. Even fishing on the coast and the sale of the article are
virtually government monopolies; indeed, everything is taxed and
double taxed in Cuba; the air one breathes would be, could it be
measured. Fish are brought into this market, as at many other tropical
ports, alive, being preserved in wells of salt water which also act as
ballast for the fishing vessels. One morning, among others brought to
the Marti market a dolphin was observed, but as it is not a fish much
used for the table why it came hither was not so clear to us. Being
curious as to the accuracy of the poetical simile of changing colors
which characterize its dying hours, the just landed dolphin was
closely watched. The varying and multiform hues were clearly exhibited
by the expiring fish. First its skin presented a golden shade, as if
reflecting the sun, this changing gradually into a light purple.
Presently the body became silvery white, followed slowly by
alternating hues of pearl and yellow, and finally death left it of a
dull, lustreless gray.
The market is about two hundred feet long, with one broad marble table
extending from end to end. The roof is supported by a series of arches
resting upon pillars. One side is entirely open to the street, thus
insuring good ventilation. It is not far from the cathedral, and in
the vicinity of the shore, but is in some measure superseded by the
large central Mercado de Tacon in the Calzada de la Reina, one block
from the Campo de Marte. In this latter market we saw shark's flesh
sold for food and freely bought by the negroes and Chinese coolies.
The monopoly granted in Tacon's time to the famous smuggler whose name
the fish-market on Mercaderes Street still bears has reverted to the
government, which requires every fisherman, like every cab driver, to
pay a heavy tax for the privilege of following his calling. The
boatman who pulls an oar in the harbor for hire is obliged to pay the
government for the simple privilege. A writer in a popular magazine
lately compared these harbor boats of Havana to Venetian gondolas; but
even poetical license will not admit of this. They do, however, almost
precisely resemble the thousand and one boats which besprinkle the
Pearl River at Canton, being of the same shape, and covered in the
stern by a similar arched frame and canvas, the Chinese substituting
for this latter the universal matting. The Havana boatmen have so long
suffered from the extortion of the Spanish officials that they have
learned the trick of it, and practice the same upon travelers who make
no bargain with them before entering their tiny vessels.
The fish monopoly referred to was established under the governorship
of Tacon, and is of peculiar origin. We cannot do better, perhaps, by
way of illustrating his arbitrary rule, than to relate for the
reader's benefit the story of its inauguration and enforcement.
One of the most successful rogues whose history is connected with that
of modern Cuba was one Marti, who during his life was a prominent
individual upon a limited stage of action. He first became known as a
notorious and successful smuggler on the coast of the island, a daring
and reckless leader of desperate men. At one time he bore the
pretentious title of King of the Isle of Pines, where he maintained a
fortified position, more secure in its inaccessibility than for any
other reason. From hence Marti dispatched his small fleet of cutters
to operate between Key West and the southern coast of Cuba, sometimes
extending his trips to Charleston, Savannah, and even to New Orleans.
With the duty at ten dollars a barrel on American flour legitimately
imported into the island, it was a paying business to smuggle even
that prosaic but necessary article from one country to the other, and
to transport it inland for consumption. By this business Marti is said
to have amassed a large amount of money. He is described as having
been a tall, dark man of mixed descent, Spanish, Creole, and mulatto.
His great physical strength and brute courage are supposed to have
given him precedence among his associates, added to which he possessed
a large share of native shrewdness, cunning, and business tact. His
masquerading capacity, if we may believe the current stories told of
him, was very remarkable, enabling him to assume almost any disguise
and to effectually carry it out, so as to go safely among his enemies
or the government officials and gain whatever intelligence he desired.
Little authentic information can be had of such a man, and one depends
upon common report only in making up a sketch of his career; but he is
known to have been one of the last of the Caribbean rovers, finally
turning his attention to smuggling as being both the safer and more
profitable occupation. The southern coast of Cuba is so formed as to
be peculiarly adapted to the business of the contrabandists, who even
to-day carry on this adventurous game with more or less impunity,
being stimulated by the excessive and unreasonable excise duties
imposed upon the necessities of life.
When Tacon first arrived in the colony he found the revenue laws in a
very lax condition. Smuggling was connived at by the venal
authorities, and the laws, which were so stringent in the letter, were
practically null and void. It is said that Marti could land a
contraband cargo, at that time, on the Regla side of Havana harbor in
broad daylight without fear of molestation. The internal affairs of
the island were also in a most confused condition; assassinations even
in the streets of Havana were frequent, and brigandage was carried on
in the near environs of the city. The Governor seemed actuated by a
determination to reform these outrages, and set himself seriously
about the business. He found that the Spanish vessels of the navy sent
hither to sustain the laws lay idly in port, the officers passing
their time in search of amusement on shore, or in giving balls and
dances on board their ships. Tacon saw that one of the very first
moves essential to be made was to suppress the wholesale system of
smuggling upon the coast. The heretofore idle navy became infused with
life and was promptly detailed upon this service, coasting night and
day along the shore from Cape Antonio to the Point of Maysi, but to
little or no good effect. A few captures were made, but the result was
only to cause a greater degree of caution on the part of the
contrabandists. In vain were all the measures taken by the officials.
The smuggling was as successful as ever, and the law was completely
defied. At last, finding that his expeditions against the outlaws
failed, partly from their adroitness and bravery and partly from want
of pilots capable of guiding attacking parties among the shoals
frequented by the smugglers, a large and tempting reward in gold was
offered to any one of them who would desert his comrades and act as
pilot to the King's ships. At the same time a double reward was
offered for the person of Marti, dead or alive, as he was known to be
the leader of the desperate men who so successfully defied the
authorities. These offers were fully promulgated, and care was taken
that those who were most interested should be made aware of their
purport. But the hoped-for result did not ensue. There was either too
much honor among the guilty characters to whom the bribe was offered
to permit them to betray each other, or they feared the condign
punishment which was the portion of all traitors among them. The
government had done its best, but had failed to accomplish its object.
It was a dark, cloudy night in Havana, some three or four months
subsequent to the offering of the rewards to which we have referred.
Two sentinels were pacing back and forth before the main entrance of
the Governor's palace which forms one side of the area inclosing the
Plaza de Armas. The military band had performed as usual that evening
in the Plaza and had retired. The public, after enjoying the music,
had partaken of their ices and favorite drinks at La Domenica's and
found their way to their homes. The square was now very quiet, the
stillness only broken by the music of the fountain mingled with the
tread of the two sentinels. The stars looked calmly down from between
the rifts of hanging clouds which crowded one another onward as though
bound to some important rendezvous, where they were to perform their
part in a pending storm. A little before midnight a tall figure,
wrapped in a half military cloak, might have been observed watching
the two guards from behind the marble statue of Ferdinand. After
observing that they paced their apportioned walk, meeting each other
face to face, and then separated, leaving a brief moment when the eyes
of both were turned away from the entrance they were placed to guard,
the stranger seemed to calculate the chances of passing them without
being discovered. It was an exceedingly delicate manoeuvre,
requiring great care and dexterity. Watching for the favorable moment
the purpose was, however, accomplished; the tall man in the cloak at a
bound passed within the portal and quickly secreted himself in the
shadows of the inner court. The sentinels paced on undisturbed.
The individual who had thus stealthily effected an entrance within the
gates of the palace now sought the broad marble steps which led to the
Governor's business suite of rooms, with a confidence that evinced a
perfect knowledge of the place. A second sentinel was to be passed at
the head of the stairs, but, assuming an air of authority, the
stranger gave a formal military salute and passed quickly forward as
though there was not the least question as to his right to do so. The
drowsy guard promptly presented arms, doubtless mistaking him for some
regular officer of the Governor's staff. The stranger boldly entered
the Governor's reception-room and closed the door behind him. In a
large chair sat the commander-in-chief before a broad table, engaged
in writing, but he was quite alone. An expression of undisguised
satisfaction passed across the weather-beaten countenance of the
new-comer at this state of affairs, as he coolly cast off his cloak,
tossed it carelessly over his arm, and proceeded to wipe the
perspiration from his face. The Governor, looking up with surprise
and fixing his keen eyes upon the intruder, asked peremptorily:--
"Who enters here unannounced and at this hour?"
"One who has important information to impart to the government," was
the quiet reply.
"But why seek this manner of audience?"
"For reasons, Excellency, that will soon appear."
"How did you pass the guard unchallenged?"
"Do not mind that for the present, Excellency."
"But I do mind it very seriously."
"It can be explained by and by."
"Very well," said the Governor, "speak quickly then. What is your
business here?"
"Excellency, you have publicly offered a handsome reward for any
information concerning the contrabandists," continued the stranger.
"Is it not so?"
"Ha!" said the Governor, "is that your errand here? What have you to
say about those outlaws? Speak, speak quickly."
"Excellency, I must do so with caution," said the stranger, "otherwise
I may condemn myself by what I have to communicate."
"Not so," interrupted Tacon, "the offer"--
"I know, Excellency, a free pardon is promised to him who shall turn
state's evidence, but there may be circumstances"--
"The offer is unconditional, as it regards pardon."
"True, but"--
"I say you have naught to fear," continued Tacon; "the offered reward
involves unconditional pardon to the informant."
"You offer an additional reward, Excellency, for the discovery of the
leader of the contrabandists, Captain Marti."
"Ay."
"It is a full revelation I have come hither to make."
"Speak, then."
"First, Excellency, will you give me your knightly word that you will
grant a free pardon to me, a personal pardon, if I reveal all that you
require?"
"I pledge you my word of honor," replied the Governor.
"No matter how heinous in the eyes of the law my offenses may have
been, still you will pardon me under the King's seal?"
"Why all this reiteration?" asked Tacon impatiently.
"Excellency, it is necessary," was the reply.
"I will do so, if you reveal truly and to any good purpose," answered
the Governor, weighing carefully in his mind the purpose of all this
precaution.
"Even if I were a leader among these men?"
The Governor hesitated but for a single moment, while he gave the man
before him a searching glance, then said:--
"Even then, be you whom you may, if you are able and willing to pilot
our ships and reveal the rendezvous of Marti and his followers, you
shall be rewarded and pardoned according to the published card."
"Excellency, I think that I know your character well enough to fully
trust these words, else I should not have ventured here."
"Speak, then, and without further delay. My time is precious,"
continued the Governor with manifest impatience, and half rising from
his seat.
"It is well. I will speak without further parley. The man for whom you
have offered the largest reward--ay, dead or alive--is before you!"
"And you are"--
"Captain Marti!"
Tacon had not expected this, but supposed himself talking to some
lieutenant of the famous outlaw, and though no coward he instinctively
cast his eyes towards a brace of pistols that lay within reach of his
right hand. This was but for a moment; yet the motion was not
unobserved by his visitor, who, stepping forward, drew a couple of
similar weapons from his own person and laid them quietly on the
table, saying:--
"I have no further use for these; it is to be diplomacy for the
future, not fighting."
"That is well," responded the Governor; and after a few moments of
thought he continued: "I shall keep my promise, be assured of that,
provided you faithfully perform your part, notwithstanding the law
demands your immediate punishment. For good reasons, as well as to
secure your faithfulness, you must remain under guard," he added.
"I have anticipated that, and am prepared," was the reply.
"We understand each other then."
Saying which he rang a small silver bell by his side, and issued a
verbal order to the attendant who responded. In a few moments after,
the officer of the watch entered, and Marti was placed in confinement,
with directions to render him as comfortable as possible under the
circumstances. His name was withheld from the officers.
Left alone, the Governor mused for a few moments thoughtfully over the
scene which we have described, then, summoning the officer of the
guard, demanded that the three sentinels on duty should be relieved
and brought at once before him. What transpired between them was not
made public, but it was known on the following day that they had been
condemned to the chain-gang for a whole month. Military law is rigid.
On the subsequent day, one of the light-draught corvettes which lay
under the guns of Moro Castle suddenly became the scene of the utmost
activity, and before noon had weighed anchor and was standing out of
the harbor. Captain Marti was on board acting as pilot, and faithfully
did he guide the government ship in the discharge of her errand among
the bays and shoals of the southern coast. For more than a month he
was engaged in this piloting to all the secret haunts and storage
places of the contrabandists, but it was observed that very few stores
were found in them! On this famous expedition one or two small vessels
were taken and destroyed in the bays of the Isle of Pines, but not one
of the smugglers was captured. Information of the approach of the
would-be captors was always mysteriously conveyed to them, and when a
rendezvous was reached the occupants, it was found, had fled a few
hours previously! The amount of property secured was very small, but
still the organization which had so long and so successfully defied
the government was broken up, and the smugglers' place of rendezvous
became known. Marti returned with the ship to claim his reward. Tacon
was well satisfied with the result and with the manner in which the
ex-smuggler had fulfilled his agreement. The officials did not look
very deeply into the business, and they believed that Marti had
really betrayed his former comrades. The Governor-General summoned him
to his presence and said to Marti:--
"As you have faithfully performed your part of our agreement, I am
prepared to fulfill mine. In this package you will find a free and
unconditional pardon for all your past offenses against the law. Mark
the word _past_ offenses," reiterated the Governor. "Any new
disloyalty on your part shall be as promptly and rigorously treated as
though these late services had never been rendered. And here is an
order upon the treasury for the sum"--
"Excellency, excuse me," said the pardoned smuggler, stepping back,
and holding up his hand in significance of declining the reward.
"What does this mean?" asked Tacon.
"Permit me to explain, Excellency."
"What, more conditions?" asked the Governor.
"The pardon, Excellency, I gladly receive," continued Marti. "As to
the sum of money you propose to give me, let me make you a proposal."
"Speak out. Let us know what it is."
"The treasury is poor," said the ex-smuggler, "I am rich. Retain the
money, and in place of it guarantee me alone the right to fish on the
coast of Cuba, and declare the business of supplying the people with
fish contraband, except to me and my agents. This will amply
compensate me, and I will erect a public market at my own expense,
which shall be an ornament to the city, and which at the expiration of
twenty-five years shall revert to the government."
"So singular a proposition requires to be considered," said the
Governor.
"In the mean time I will await your commands," said Marti, preparing
to leave.
"Stay," said the Governor. "I like your proposal, and shall probably
accede to it; but I will take a day to give it careful thought."
As Tacon said, he was pleased with the idea from the outset. He saw
that he was dealing with a thorough man of business. He remembered
that he should always have the man under his control, and so the
proposal was finally accepted and confirmed.
The ci-devant smuggler at once assumed all the rights which this
extraordinary grant gave to him. Seeking his former comrades, they
were all employed by Marti on profitable terms as fishermen, and
realized an immunity from danger not to be expected in their old
business. Having in his roving life learned where to seek fish in the
largest quantities, he furnished the city bountifully with the
article, and reaped a large annual profit, until the period expired
for which the monopoly was granted, and the market reverted to the
government.
Marti, in the mean time, possessing great wealth, looked about him to
see in what enterprise he could best invest it. The idea struck him
that if he could obtain some such agreement relating to theatricals in
Havana as he had enjoyed in connection with the fishery on the coast,
he could make a profitable business of it. He was granted the
privilege he sought, provided he should build one of the largest and
best appointed theatres in the world on the Paseo, and name it the
Tacon Theatre. This agreement he fulfilled. The detailed conditions of
this monopoly were never made public.
Many romantic stories are told relating to Captain Marti, but these
are the only ones bearing upon the subject of our present work which
are believed to be authentic.
Of all the Governors-General who have occupied that position in Cuba,
none are better known at home or abroad than Tacon, though he filled
the post but four years, having been appointed in 1834, and returning
to Spain in 1838. His reputation at Havana is of a somewhat doubtful
character, for although he followed out with energy the various
improvements suggested by Arranjo, yet his modes of procedure were
often so violent that he was an object of terror to the people
generally rather than one of gratitude. It must be admitted that he
vastly improved the appearance of the capital and its vicinity, built
a new prison, rebuilt the Governor's palace, constructed several new
roads in the environs, including the Paseo bearing his name, and
opened a large parade-ground just outside the old city walls, thus
laying the foundation of the new city which has sprung up in the
formerly desolate neighborhood of the Campo de Marte. Tacon also
practically suppressed the public gaming-houses, but this radical
effort to check an inherent vice only resulted in transferring the
gambling-tables of the private houses devoted to the purpose into the
public restaurants, which was not much of an improvement.
In one important matter he was more successful; namely, in instituting
a system of police, and rendering the streets of Havana, which were
formerly infested with robbers, as secure as those of most of our
American cities. But his reforms were all consummated with a rude,
arbitrary arm, and in a military fashion. Life or property were
counted by him of little value, if either required to be sacrificed
for his purpose. Many people fell before his relentless orders. There
was undoubtedly much of right mingled with his wrongs, but if he left
lasting monuments of energy and skill behind him, he also left many
tombs filled by his victims. Notwithstanding all, there seemed to be
throughout his notable career a sort of romantic spirit of
justice--wild justice--prompting him. Some of the stories still
current relating to him go far to show this to have been the case,
while others exhibit the possibilities of arbitrary power, as
exercised in the contract with Captain Marti.
On January 6th, the day of Epiphany, the negroes of Havana, as well as
in the other cities of the island, make a grand public demonstration;
indeed, the occasion may be said to be given up to them as a holiday
for their race. They march about the principal streets in bands, each
with its leader got up like a tambour major, and accompanied by rude
African drum notes and songs. They are dressed in the most fantastic
and barbarous disguises, some wearing cow's horns, others masks
representing the heads of wild beasts, and some are seen prancing on
dummy horses. All wear the most gorgeous colors, and go from point to
point on the plazas and paseos, asking for donations from every one
they meet. It is customary to respond to these demands in a moderate
way, and the greatest reasonable latitude is given to the blacks on
the occasion; reminding one of a well-manned ship at sea in a dead
calm, before the days of steam, when all hands were piped to mischief.
But what it all means except improving a special occasion for
wholesale noise, grotesque parading, and organized begging, it will
puzzle the stranger to make out. Among the colored performers there is
but a small proportion of native Africans, that is, negroes actually
imported into Cuba; most of them are direct descendants, however,
from parents who were brought from the slave coast, but it must be
remembered that none have been imported for about thirty years.
The Isle of Pines, which has been more than once alluded to in these
notes, is situated less than forty miles south of Cuba, being under
the jurisdiction of the Governor-General of Havana. It is forty-four
miles long and nearly as wide, having an area of between twelve and
thirteen hundred square miles. It is supposed that there are about two
thousand inhabitants, though Spanish statistics are not to be relied
upon. Like Cuba, it has a mountain range traversing the middle for its
whole length, but the highest portion does not reach quite two
thousand feet. The island has several rivers and is well watered by
springs. The climate is pronounced to be even more salubrious than
that of Cuba, while the soil is marvelously fertile. An English
physician, who, with a patient, passed a winter at Nueva Gerona, which
has a population of only a hundred souls, says the climate is
remarkably bland and equable, especially adapted for pulmonary
invalids. The coast is deeply indented by bays, some of which afford
good anchorage, though the island is surrounded by innumerable rocky
islets or keys. The Isle of Pines is very nearly in the same condition
in which Columbus found it in 1494, containing a large amount of
precious woods, and some valuable mines of silver, iron, sulphur,
quicksilver, and quarries of beautifully variegated marble. It is
reached by special steamers from Havana, not oftener than once a
month.