Monte Video--Excursion to Colonia del Sacramiento--Horse swimming
--Value of an Estancia--Cattle, how counted--Geology--Great
thistle-beds--Rio Negro--Perforated pebbles--Shepherd dogs--Horses
broken in, Gauchos riding, feats with lazo--Toxodon--Armadillo-like
gigantic covering--Great tail--Return to Monte Video--Character
of inhabitants.
BANDA ORIENTAL.
Having been delayed for nearly a fortnight in the city, I was glad to
escape on board a packet bound for Monte Video. A town in a state of
blockade must always be a disagreeable place of residence; in this
case moreover there were constant apprehensions from robbers within.
The sentinels were the worst of all; for, from their office and from
having arms in their hands, they robbed with a degree of authority,
which other men could not imitate.
Our passage was a very long and tedious one. The Plata looks like a
noble estuary on the map; but it is in truth a poor affair. A wide
expanse of muddy water, has neither grandeur nor beauty. At one time
of the day the two shores, both of which are extremely low, could
just be distinguished from the deck. On arriving at Monte Video I
found the Beagle would not sail for some time, so I prepared for a
short excursion in this part of Banda Oriental. Every thing which
I said about the country near Maldonado is applicable to this; the
land, however, with the one exception of the Green Mount, 450 feet
high, from which it takes its name, is far more level. Very little of
the undulating grassy plain is enclosed; but near the town there are
a few hedge banks, covered with agaves, cacti, and fennel.
NOVEMBER 14TH.--We left Monte Video in the afternoon. I intended to
proceed to Colonia del Sacramiento, situated on the northern bank
of the Plata and opposite to Buenos Ayres, and thence following up
the Uruguay, to the village of Mercedes on the Rio Negro (one of the
many rivers of this name in South America), and from this point to
return direct to Monte Video. We slept at the house of my guide at
Canelones. In the morning we rose early in the hopes of being able
to ride a good distance; but it was a vain attempt, for all the
rivers were flooded. We passed in boats the streams of Canelones, St.
Lucia, and San José, and thus lost much time. On a former excursion
I crossed the Lucia, near its mouth, and I was surprised to observe
how easily our horses, although not used to swim, passed over a width
of at least six hundred yards. On mentioning this at Monte Video I
was told that a vessel containing some mountebanks and their horses,
being wrecked in the Piata, one horse swam seven miles to the shore.
In the course of the day I was amused by the dexterity with which a
Gaucho forced a restive horse to swim a river. He stripped off his
clothes, and jumping on its back, rode into the water till it was out
of its depth; then slipping off over the crupper, he caught hold of
the tail, and as often as the horse turned round, the man frightened
it back, by splashing water in its face. As soon as the horse touched
the bottom on the other side, the man pulled himself on, and was
firmly seated, bridle in hand, before the horse gained the bank. A
naked man, on a naked horse, is a fine spectacle; I had no idea how
well the two animals suited each other. The tail of a horse is a very
useful appendage; I have passed a river in a boat with four people in
it, which was ferried across in the same way as the Gaucho. If a man
and horse have to cross a broad river, the best plan is for the man
to catch hold of the pummel or mane, and help himself with the other
arm.
We slept, and staid the following day at the post of Cufre. In the
evening the postman or letter-carrier arrived. He was a day after his
time, owing to the Rio Rozario being flooded. It would not, however,
be of much consequence; for, although he had passed through some of
the principal towns in Banda Oriental, his luggage consisted of
two letters. The view from the house was pleasing; an undulating
green surface, with distant glimpses of the Plata. I find I look
at this province with very different eyes, from what I did upon my
first arrival. I recollect I then thought it singularly level; but
now, after galloping over the Pampas, my only surprise is, what
could have induced me ever to have called it level. The country is a
series of undulations, in themselves perhaps not absolutely great,
but as compared to the plains of St. Fe, real mountains. From these
inequalities, there is an abundance of small rivulets, and the turf
is green and luxuriant.
NOVEMBER 17TH.--We crossed the Rozario, which was deep and rapid,
and passing the village of Colla, arrived at mid-day at Colonia
del Sacramiento. The distance is twenty leagues, through a country
covered with fine grass, but poorly stocked with cattle or
inhabitants. I was invited to sleep at Colonia, and to accompany on
the following day a gentleman to his estancia, where there were some
limestone rocks. The town is built on a stony promontory something
in the same manner as at Monte Video. It is strongly fortified;
but both fortifications and town suffered much from the Brazilian
war. It is very ancient; and the irregularity of the streets, and
the surrounding groves of old orange and peach trees gave it a
pretty appearance. The church is a curious ruin; it was used as
a powder-magazine, and was struck by lightning in one of the ten
thousand thunderstorms of the Rio Plata. Two-thirds of the building
were blown away to the very foundation; and the rest stands a
shattered and curious monument, of the united powers of lightning and
gunpowder. In the evening I wandered about the half-demolished walls
of the town. It was the chief seat of the Brazilian war;--a war most
injurious to this country, not so much in its immediate effects, as
in being the origin of a multitude of generals and all other grades
of officers. More generals are numbered (but not paid) in the United
Provinces of la Plata, than in the United Kingdom of Great Britain.
These gentlemen have learned to like power, and do not object to a
little skirmishing. Hence there are many, always on the watch to
create disturbance and to overturn a government, which as yet has
never rested on any stable foundation. I noticed however, both here
and in other places, a very general interest in the ensuing election
for the President; and this appears a good sign for the prosperity of
this little country. The inhabitants do not require much education
in their representatives; I heard some men discussing the merits of
those for Colonia; and it was said that, “although they were not
men of business, they could all sign their names:” with this every
reasonable man was satisfied.
18TH.--Rode with my host to his estancia, at the Arroyo de San
Juan. In the evening we took a ride round the estate. It contained
two square leagues and a half; and was situated in what is called
a rincon; that is, one side was fronted by the Plata, and the two
others guarded by impassable brooks. There was an excellent port for
little vessels, and an abundance of small wood, which is valuable
as supplying fuel to Buenos Ayres. I was curious to know the value
of so complete an estancia. Of cattle there were 3000, and it would
well support three or four times that number; of mares 800, together
with 150 broken horses, and 600 sheep. There was plenty of water and
limestone, a rough house, excellent corrals, and a peach orchard.
For all this he had been offered 2000_l._, and only wanted 500_l._
additional, and probably would sell it for less. The chief trouble
with an estancia, is driving the cattle twice a week to a central
spot, in order to make them tame, and to count them. This latter
operation would be thought difficult, where there are ten or fifteen
thousand head together. It is managed on the principle that the
cattle invariably divide themselves into little troops of from forty
to one hundred. Each troop is recognised by a few peculiarly marked
animals, and its number is known: so that, one being lost out of ten
thousand, it is perceived by its absence from one of the tropillas.
During a stormy night the cattle all mingle together; but the next
morning the tropillas separate as before.
NOVEMBER 19TH.--Passing the village of Las Vacas, we slept at a
house of a North American, who worked a lime-kiln on the Arroyo de
las Vivoras. In the morning we rode to a projecting headland on the
banks of the river, called Punta Gorda. On the way we tried to find a
jaguar. There were plenty of fresh tracks, and we visited the trees,
on which they are said to sharpen their claws; but we did not succeed
in disturbing one. From this point the Rio Uruguay presented to our
view a noble volume of water. From the clearness and rapidity of the
stream, its appearance was far superior to that of its neighbour the
Parana. On the opposite coast, several branches from the latter river
entered the Uruguay. As the sun was shining, the two colours of the
waters could be seen quite distinct. The geological section presented
by the cliffs was interesting. At St. Fe, a stratum with marine
remains was seen gradually passing into an estuary deposit. Here we
have an alternation of action;--a circumstance no ways improbable in
a great bay. A formation of red earthy clay, with nodules of marl,
and in every respect identical with that of the Pampas, is covered by
a white limestone, containing large extinct oysters, and other marine
shells; and over this again, is placed the reddish earthy matter, as
in the rest of Banda Oriental.
In the evening we proceeded on our road towards Mercedes on the Rio
Negro. At night we asked permission to sleep at an estancia, at
which we happened to arrive. It was a very large estate, being ten
leagues square, and the owner is one of the greatest landowners in
the country. His nephew had charge of it, and with him there was a
captain in the army, who the other day ran away from Buenos Ayres.
Considering their station, their conversation was rather amusing.
They expressed, as was usual, unbounded astonishment at the globe
being round, and could scarcely credit that a hole would, if deep
enough, come out on the other side. They had, however, heard of a
country where there were six months light and six of darkness, and
where the inhabitants were very tall and thin! They were curious
about the price and condition of horses and cattle in England.
Upon finding out we did not catch our animals with the lazo, they
cried out, “Ah then, you use nothing but the bolas:” the idea of an
enclosed country was quite novel to them. The captain at last said,
he had one question to ask me, which he should be very much obliged
if I would answer with all truth. I trembled to think how deeply
scientific it would be: it was, “Whether the ladies of Buenos Ayres
were not the handsomest in the world.” I replied, “Charmingly so.” He
added, I have one other question: “Do ladies in any other part of the
world wear such large combs?” I solemnly assured him they did not.
They were absolutely delighted. The captain exclaimed, “Look there!
a man who has seen half the world says it is the case; we always
thought so, but now we know it.” My excellent judgment in beauty
procured me a most hospitable reception; the captain forced me to
take his bed, and he would sleep on his recado.
21ST.--Started at sunrise, and rode slowly during the whole day. The
geological nature of this part of the province was different from
the rest, and closely resembled that of the Pampas. In consequence,
there were immense beds of the thistle, as well as of the cardoon:
the whole country, indeed, may be called one great bed. The two sorts
grow separate, each plant in company with its own kind. The cardoon
is as high as a horse’s back, but the Pampas thistle is often higher
than the crown of the rider’s head. To leave the road for a yard is
out of the question; and the road itself is partly, and in some cases
entirely, closed. Pasture, of course, there is none; if cattle or
horses once enter the bed, they are for the time completely lost.
Hence it is very hazardous to attempt to drive cattle at this season
of the year; for when jaded enough to face the thistles, they rush
among them, and are seen no more. In these districts there are very
few estancias, and these few are situated in the neighbourhood of
damp valleys, where fortunately neither of these overwhelming plants
can exist. As night came on before we arrived at our journey’s end,
we slept at a miserable little hovel, inhabited by the poorest
people. The extreme, though rather formal courtesy, of our host and
hostess, considering their grade of life, was quite delightful.
NOVEMBER 22D.--Arrived at an estancia on the Berquelo belonging to a
very hospitable Englishman, to whom I had a letter of introduction
from my friend Mr. Lumb. I staid here three days. One morning I
rode with my host to the Sierra del Pedro Flaco, about twenty miles
up the Rio Negro. Nearly the whole country was covered with good,
though coarse grass, which was as high as a horse’s belly; yet there
were square leagues without a single head of cattle. The province
of Banda Oriental, if well stocked, would support an astonishing
number of animals; at present the annual export of hides from Monte
Video amounts to three hundred thousand; and the home consumption,
from waste, is very considerable. The view of the Rio Negro from the
Sierra was the most picturesque which I any where saw. The river,
broad, deep, and rapid, wound at the foot of a rocky precipitous
cliff: a belt of wood followed its course, and the horizon was
terminated by the distant undulations of the plain of turf.
When in this neighbourhood I several times heard of the Sierra de
las Cuentas; a hill distant many miles to the northward. The name
signifies hill of beads. I was assured that vast numbers of little
round stones, of various colours, each with a small cylindrical
hole, are found there. Formerly the Indians used to collect them,
for the purpose of making necklaces and bracelets--a taste, I may
observe, which is common to all savage nations, as well as to the
most polished. I did not know what to understand from this story,
but upon mentioning it at the Cape of Good Hope to Dr. Andrew Smith,
he told me that he recollected finding on the south-eastern coast of
Africa, about one hundred miles to the eastward of St. John’s river,
some quartz crystals with their edges blunted from attrition, and
mixed with gravel on the sea-beach. Each crystal was about five lines
in diameter, and from an inch to an inch and a half in length. Many
of them had a small canal extending from one extremity to the other,
perfectly cylindrical, and of a size that readily admitted a coarse
thread, or a piece of fine catgut. Their colour was red or dull
white. The natives were acquainted with this structure in crystals. I
have mentioned these circumstances, because, although no crystallized
body is at present known to assume this form, it may lead some future
traveller to investigate the real nature of such stones.
While staying at this estancia, I was amused with what I saw and
heard of the shepherd dogs of the country.[1] When riding, it is a
common thing to meet a large flock of sheep guarded by one or two
dogs, at the distance of some miles from any house or man. I often
wondered how so firm a friendship had been established. The method
of education consists in separating the puppy, while very young,
from the bitch, and in accustoming it to its future companions. An
ewe is held three or four times a day for the little thing to suck;
and a nest of wool is made for it in the sheep-pen; at no time is it
allowed to associate with other dogs, or with the children of the
family. The puppy is, moreover, generally castrated; so that, when
grown up, it can scarcely have any feelings in common with the rest
of its kind. From this education it has no wish to leave the flock,
and just as another dog will defend its master, man, so will these,
the sheep. It is amusing to observe, when approaching a flock, how
the dog immediately advances barking, and the sheep all close in his
rear, as if round the oldest ram. These dogs are also easily taught
to bring home the flock, at a certain hour in the evening. Their most
troublesome fault, when young, is their desire of playing with the
sheep; for in their sport they sometimes gallop their poor subjects
most unmercifully.
The shepherd dog comes to the house every day for some meat, and
immediately it is given him, he skulks away as if ashamed of himself.
On these occasions the house-dogs are very tyrannical, and the least
of them will attack and pursue the stranger. The minute, however, the
latter has reached the flock, he turns round, and begins to bark,
and then all the house-dogs take very quickly to their heels. In a
similar manner a whole pack of the hungry wild dogs will scarcely
ever (and I was told by some, never) venture to attack a flock
guarded even by one of these faithful shepherds. The whole account
appears to me a curious instance of the pliability of the affections
in the dog race; and yet, whether wild, or however educated, with a
mutual feeling of respect or fear for those that are fulfilling their
instinct of association. For we can understand on no principle, the
wild dogs being driven away by the single one with its flock, except
that they consider, from some confused notion, that the one thus
associated gains power, as if in company with its own kind. F. Cuvier
has observed, that all animals that readily enter into domestication,
consider man as a member of their society, and thus fulfil their
instinct of association. In the above case the shepherd dogs rank the
sheep as their fellow brethren; and the wild dogs, though knowing
that the individual sheep are not dogs, but are good to eat, yet
partly consent to this view, when seeing them in a flock with a
shepherd dog at their head.
One evening a “domidor” (a subduer of horses) came for the purpose of
breaking in some colts. I will describe the preparatory steps, for
I believe they have not been mentioned by other travellers. A troop
of wild young horses is driven into the corral, or large enclosure
of stakes, and the door is shut. We will suppose that one man alone
has to catch and mount a horse, which as yet had never felt bridle or
saddle. I conceive, except by a Gaucho, such a feat would be utterly
impracticable. The Gaucho picks out a full-grown colt; and as the
beast rushes round the circus, he throws his lazo so as to catch both
the front legs. Instantly the horse rolls over with a heavy shock,
and, whilst struggling on the ground, the Gaucho, holding the lazo
tight, makes a circle, so as to catch one of the hind legs, just
beneath the fetlock, and draws it close to the two front. He then
hitches the lazo, so that the three legs are bound together. Then
sitting on the horse’s neck, he fixes a strong bridle, without a bit,
to the lower jaw. This he does by passing a narrow thong through the
eye holes, at the end of the reins, and several times round both jaw
and tongue. The two front legs are now tied closely together with
a strong leathern thong, fastened by a slip-knot. The lazo, which
bound the three together, being then loosed, the horse rises with
difficulty. The Gaucho now holding fast the bridle fixed to the lower
jaw, leads the horse outside the corral. If a second man is present
(otherwise the trouble is much greater) he holds the animal’s head,
whilst the first puts on the horsecloths and saddle, and girths the
whole together. During this operation, the horse, from dread and
astonishment at thus being bound round the waist, throws himself,
over and over again, on the ground, and, till beaten, is unwilling
to rise. At last, when the saddling is finished, the poor animal can
hardly breathe from fear, and is white with foam and sweat. The man
now prepares to mount, by pressing heavily on the stirrup, so that
the horse may not lose its balance; and at the moment he throws his
leg over the animal’s back he pulls the slip-knot, and the beast is
free. Some “domidors” pull the knot while the animal is lying on
the ground, and, standing over the saddle, allow it to rise beneath
them. The horse, wild with dread, gives a few most violent bounds,
and then starts off at full gallop: when quite exhausted, the man,
by patience, brings him back to the corral, where reeking hot, and
scarcely alive, the poor beast is let free. Those animals which will
not gallop away, but obstinately throw themselves on the ground, are
by far the most troublesome. This process is tremendously severe,[2]
but in two or three trials the horse is tamed. It is not, however,
for some weeks that the animal is ridden with the iron bit and solid
ring; for it must learn to associate the will of its rider with the
feel of the rein, before the most powerful bridle can be of any
service.
The Gauchos are well known to be perfect riders. The idea of being
thrown, let the horse do what it likes, never enters their head.
Their criterion of a good rider, is a man who can manage an untamed
colt, or who, if his horse falls, alights on his own feet, or can
perform other such exploits. I have heard of a man betting that he
would throw his horse down twenty times, and that nineteen out of
these he would not fall himself. I recollect seeing a Gaucho riding a
very stubborn horse, which three times successively reared so high as
to fall backwards with great violence. The man judged with uncommon
coolness the proper moment for slipping off, not an instant before or
after the right time. Directly the horse rose the man jumped on his
back, and at last they started at a gallop. The Gaucho never appears
to exert any muscular force. I was one day watching a good rider,
as we were galloping along at a rapid pace, and thought to myself,
“surely if the horse starts, you appear so careless on your seat you
must fall.” At this moment, a male ostrich sprang from its nest right
beneath the horse’s nose. The young colt bounded on one side, like
a stag; but as for the man, all that could be said, was, that he
started and took fright, as part of his horse.
In Chile and Peru more pains are taken with the mouth of the horse
than in La Plata, and this is evidently a consequence of the more
intricate nature of the country. In Chile a horse is not considered
perfectly broken till he can be brought up standing, in the midst of
his full speed, on any particular spot,--for instance, on a cloak
thrown on the ground: or, again, will charge a wall, and rearing,
scrape the surface with his hoofs. I have seen an animal bounding
with spirit, yet merely reined by a fore-finger and thumb, taken at
full gallop across a courtyard, and then made to wheel round the post
of a verandah with great speed, but at so equal a distance, that the
rider, with outstretched arm, all the while kept one finger rubbing
the post. Then making a demi-volte in the air, with the other arm
outstretched in a like manner, he wheeled round, with astonishing
force, in an opposite direction.
Such a horse is well-broken; and although this at first may appear
useless, it is far otherwise. It is only carrying that which is daily
necessary into perfection. When a bullock is checked and caught by
the lazo, it will sometimes gallop round and round in a circle, and
the horse being alarmed at the great strain, if not well broken, will
not readily turn like the pivot of a wheel. In consequence many men
have been killed; for if the lazo once takes a twist round a man’s
body, it will instantly, from the power of the two opposed animals,
almost cut him in twain. On the same principle the races are managed;
the course is only two or three hundred yards long, the desideratum
being to have horses that can make a rapid dash. The race-horses are
trained not only to stand with their hoofs touching a line, but to
draw all four feet together, so as at the first spring to bring into
play the full action of the hind quarters. In Chile I was told an
anecdote, which I believe was true; and it offers a good illustration
of the use of a well-broken animal. A respectable man riding one day
met two others, one of whom was mounted on a horse, which he knew
to have been stolen from himself. He challenged them; they answered
him by drawing their sabres and giving chase. The man, on his good
and fleet beast kept just ahead: as he passed a thick bush he wheeled
round it, and brought up his horse to a dead check. The pursuers were
obliged to shoot on one side and ahead. Then instantly dashing on,
right behind them, he buried his knife in the back of one, wounded
the other, recovered his horse from the dying robber, and rode home.
For these feats of horsemanship two things are necessary: a most
severe bit, like the Mameluke, the power of which though seldom
used, the horse knows full well; and large blunt spurs, that can be
applied either as a mere touch, or as an instrument of extreme pain.
I conceive that with English spurs, the slightest touch of which
pricks the skin, it would be impossible to break in a horse after the
South-American fashion.
At an estancia near Las Vacas, large numbers of mares, are weekly
slaughtered for the sake of their hides, although worth only five
paper dollars, or about half-a-crown apiece. It seems at first
strange that it can answer to kill mares for such a trifle; but as it
is thought ridiculous in this country, ever to break in, or to ride
a mare, they are of no value, except for breeding. The only thing
for which I ever saw mares used was to tread out wheat from the ear;
for which purpose they were driven round a circular enclosure, where
the wheat-sheaves were strewed. The man employed for slaughtering
the mares, happened to be celebrated for his dexterity with the
lazo. Standing at the distance of twelve yards from the mouth of the
corral, he has laid a wager that he would catch by the legs every
animal, without missing one, as it rushed past him. There was another
man who said he would enter the corral on foot, catch a mare, fasten
her front legs together, drive her out, throw her down, kill, skin,
and stake the hide for drying (which latter is a tedious job); and
he engaged that he would perform this whole operation on twenty-two
animals in one day. Or, he would kill and take the skin off fifty
in the same time. This would have been a prodigious task, for it is
considered a good day’s work to skin and stake the hides of fifteen
or sixteen animals.
NOVEMBER 26TH.--I set out on my return in a direct line for Monte
Video. Having heard of some giant’s bones at a neighbouring
farm-house on the Sarandis, a small stream entering the Rio Negro,
I rode there accompanied by my host, and purchased for the value
of eighteen pence, the head of an animal equalling in size that of
the hippopotamus. Mr. Owen in a paper read before the Geological
Society,[3] has called this very extraordinary animal, Toxodon, from
the curvature of its teeth. The following notice is taken from the
proceedings of that society: Mr. Owen says, judging from the portion
of the skeleton preserved, the Toxodon, as far as dental characters
have weight, must be referred to the rodent order. But from that
order it deviates in the relative position of its supernumerary
incisors, in the number and direction of the curvature of its molars,
and in some other respects. It again deviates, in several parts of
its structure which Mr. Owen enumerated, both from the _Rodentia_,
and the existing _Pachydermata_, and it manifests an affinity to the
_Dinotherium_ and the _Cetaceous_ order. Mr. Owen, however, observed,
that “the development of the nasal cavity and the presence of frontal
sinuses, renders it extremely improbable that the habits of the
_Toxodon_ were so exclusively aquatic as would result from the total
absence of hinder extremities; and concludes, therefore, that it was
a quadruped, and not a Cetacean; and that it manifested an additional
step in the gradation of mammiferous forms leading from the
_Rodentia_, through the _Pachydermata_ to the _Cetacea_; a gradation
of which the water-hog of South America (_Hydrochærus capybara_)
already indicates the commencement amongst existing _Rodentia_, of
which order it is interesting to observe this species is the largest,
while at the same time it is peculiar to the continent in which the
remains of the gigantic _Toxodon_ were discovered.”
The people at the farm-house told me that the remains were exposed,
by a flood having washed down part of a bank of earth. When founds
the head was quite perfect; but the boys knocked the teeth out with
stones, and then set up the head as a mark to throw at. By a most
fortunate chance, I found a perfect tooth, which exactly fits one of
the sockets in this skull, embedded by itself on the banks of the
Rio Tercero, at the distance of about 180 miles from this place.
Near the Toxodon I found the fragments of the head of an animal,
rather larger than the horse, which has some points of resemblance
with the Toxodon, and others perhaps with the Edentata. The head
of this animal, as well as that of the Toxodon, and especially the
former, appear so fresh, that it is difficult to believe they have
lain buried for ages under ground. The bone contains so much animal
matter, that when heated in the flame of a spirit-lamp, it not only
exhales a very strong animal odour, but likewise burns with a slight
flame.[4]
At the distance of a few leagues I visited a place where the
remains of another great animal, associated with large pieces of
armadillo-like covering, had been found. Similar pieces were likewise
lying in the bed of the stream, close to the spot where the skeleton
of the Toxodon had been exposed. These portions are dissimilar from
those mentioned at Bahia Blanca. It is a most interesting fact thus
to discover, that more than one gigantic animal in former ages was
protected by a coat of mail,[5] very similar to the kind now found
on the numerous species of armadillo, and exclusively confined to
that South-American genus.
By the middle of the day on the 28th we arrived at Monte Video,
having been two days and a half on the road. The country for the
whole way was of a very uniform character, some parts being rather
more rocky and hilly than near the Plata. Not far from Monte Video
we passed through the village of Las Pietras, so named from some
large rounded masses of syenite. Its appearance was rather pretty. In
this country, a few fig-trees around the houses, and a site elevated
a hundred feet above the general level, ought always to be called
picturesque.
During the last six months, I have had an opportunity of seeing
a little of the character of the inhabitants of these provinces.
The Gauchos, or countrymen, are very superior to those who reside
in the towns. The Gaucho is invariably most obliging, polite, and
hospitable. I did not meet even with one instance of rudeness or
inhospitality. He is modest, both respecting himself and country,
at the same time being a spirited, bold fellow. On the other
hand, there is much blood shed, and many robberies committed. The
constant presence of the knife is the chief cause of the former.
It is lamentable to hear how many lives are lost in trifling
quarrels. In fighting, each party tries to mark the face of his
adversary, by slashing his nose or eyes; as is often attested by
deep and horrid-looking scars. Robberies are a natural consequence
of universal gambling, much drinking, and extreme indolence. At
Mercedes, I asked two men why they did not work. One gravely said
the days were too long, the other that he was too poor. The number
of horses, and the profusion of food, are the destruction of all
industry. Moreover, there are so many feast-days; and then nothing
can succeed without it is begun when the moon is on the increase; so
that half the month is lost from these two causes.
Police and justice are quite inefficient. If a man who is poor,
commits murder, and is taken, he will be imprisoned, and perhaps
even shot; but if he is rich and has friends, he may rely on it,
no very severe consequence will ensue. It is curious that the most
respectable people in the country invariably assist a murderer to
escape. They seem to think the individual sins against the governing
powers and not against the state. A traveller has no protection
besides his fire-arms: and the constant habit of carrying them, is
the main check to a more frequent occurrence of robbery.
The character of the higher and more educated classes, who reside
in the towns, partakes, but perhaps in a lesser degree, of the good
parts of the Gaucho, but is I fear stained by many vices of which
he is free. Sensuality, mockery of all religion, and the grossest
corruption, are far from uncommon. Nearly every public officer can
be bribed. The head man in the post-office sold forged government
franks. The governor and prime minister openly combined to plunder
the state. Justice, where gold came into play, was hardly expected
by any one. I knew an Englishman, who went to the chief justice (he
told me that not understanding the ways of the place, he trembled as
he entered the room), and said, “Sir, I have come to offer you 200
dollars (value about five pounds sterling) if you will arrest before
a certain time a man who has cheated me. I know it is against the
law, but my lawyer (naming him) recommended me to take this step.”
The chief justice smiled acquiescence, thanked him, and the man
before night was safe in prison. With this entire want of principle
in many of the leading men, with the country full of ill-paid
turbulent officers, the people yet hope that a democratic form of
government can succeed!
On first entering society in these countries, two or three features
strike one as particularly remarkable. The polite and dignified
manners pervading every grade of life; the excellent taste displayed
by the women in their dresses; and the equality amongst all ranks.
At the Rio Colorado some men who kept the humblest shops, used to
dine with General Rosas. A son of a major at Bahia Blanca gained his
livelihood by making paper cigars, and he wished to accompany me, as
guide or servant, to Buenos Ayres, but his father objected on the
score of the danger alone. Many officers in the army can neither read
nor write, yet all meet in society as equals. In Entre Rios, the Sala
consisted of only six representatives. One of them kept a common
shop, and evidently was not degraded by the office. All this is what
would be expected in a new country; nevertheless, the absence of
gentlemen by profession appears to an Englishman something strange.
When speaking of these countries, the manner in which they have been
brought up by their unnatural parent, Spain, should always be borne
in mind. On the whole, perhaps, more credit is due for what has been
done, than blame for that which may be deficient. It is impossible
to doubt but that the extreme liberalism of these countries, must
ultimately lead to good results. The very general toleration of
foreign religions, the regard paid to the means of education, the
freedom of the press, the facilities offered to all foreigners,
and especially, as I am bound to add, to every one professing
the humblest pretensions to science, should be recollected with
gratitude, by those who have visited Spanish South America.[6]
FOOTNOTES:
[1] M. D’Orbigny has given nearly a similar account of these dogs,
vol. i., p. 175.
[2] Animals are so abundant in these countries that humanity and
self-interest are not closely united; therefore the former is
scarcely known. One day, riding in the Pampas with a very respectable
“Estanciero,” my horse, being tired, lagged behind. The man often
shouted to me to spur him. When I remonstrated that it was a pity,
for the horse was quite exhausted, he cried out, “Why not?--never
mind--spur him--it is _my_ horse.” I had then some difficulty in
making him comprehend that it was for the horse’s sake, and not on
his account, that I did not choose to use my spurs. He exclaimed,
with a look of great surprise, “Ah Don Carlos que cosa!” It was clear
that such an idea had never before entered his head.
[3] Read, April 19th, 1837. A detailed account will appear in the
first part of the zoology of the voyage of the Beagle.
[4] I must express my obligation to Mr. Keane, at whose house I was
staying on the Berquelo, and to Mr. Lumb at Buenos Ayres, for without
their assistance, these valuable remains would never have reached
England.
[5] I may here just mention, that I saw in the possession of a
clergyman near Monte Video, the terminal portion of a tail, which
precisely resembled, but on a gigantic scale, that of the common
armadillo. The fragment was 17 inches long, 11½ in circumference at
the upper end, and 8½ at the _extreme_ point. As we do not know what
proportion the tail bore to the body of the animal, we cannot compare
it with that of any living species. But at the same time we may
conjecture that, in all probability, this extinct monster was from
six to ten feet long.
[6] I cannot conclude without adding my testimony to the spirit and
accuracy of “Head’s Rough Notes.” I do not think the picture is at
all more exaggerated than every good one must be--that is, by taking
the strong examples, and neglecting those of lesser interest.