canoe, who was father of the three children--one boy and two girls. He
asked me to let him come with them, and besought me much. They are now
all consoled at being with one who is a relation of them all. He is a man
of about 45 years of age." All these are the words of the Admiral. He
also says that he had felt some cold, and that it would not be wise to
continue discoveries in a northerly direction in the winter. On this
Monday, until sunset, he steered a course E. b. S., making 18 leagues,
and reaching a cape, to which he gave the name of Cabo de Cuba.
_Tuesday, 13th of November_
This night the ships were on a bowline, as the sailors say, beating to
windward without making any progress. At sunset they began to see an
opening in the mountains, where two very high peaks[146-1] were visible.
It appeared that here was the division between the land of Cuba and that
of Bohio, and this was affirmed by signs, by the Indians who were on
board. As soon as the day had dawned, the Admiral made sail toward the
land, passing a point which appeared at night to be distant two leagues.
He then entered a large gulf, 5 leagues to the S.S.E., and there remained
5 more, to arrive at the point where, between two great mountains, there
appeared to be an opening; but it could not be made out whether it was an
inlet of the sea. As he desired to go to the island called Babeque,
where according to the information he had received, there was much gold;
and as it bore east, and as no large town was in sight the wind
freshening more than ever, he resolved to put out to sea, and work to the
east with a northerly wind. The ship made 8 miles an hour, and from ten
in the forenoon, when that course was taken, until sunset, 56 miles,
which is 14 leagues to the eastward from the Cabo de Cuba. The other land
of Bohio was left to leeward. Commencing from the cape of the said gulf,
he discovered, according to his reckoning, 80 miles, equal to 20 leagues,
all that coast running E.S.E. and W.N.W.
_Wednesday, 14th of November_
All last night the Admiral was beating to windward (he said that it would
be unreasonable to navigate among those islands during the night, until
they had been explored), for the Indians said yesterday that it would
take three days to go from Rio de Mares to the island of Babeque, by
which should be understood days' journeys in their canoes equal to about
7 leagues. The wind fell, and, the course being east, she could not lay
her course nearer than S.E., and, owing to other mischances, he was
detained until the morning. At sunrise he determined to go in search of a
port, because the wind had shifted from north to N.E., and, if a port
could not be found, it would be necessary to go back to the ports in the
island of Cuba, whence they came. The Admiral approached the shore,
having gone over 28 miles E.S.E. that night. He steered south ... miles
to the land, where he saw many islets and openings. As the wind was high
and the sea rough, he did not dare to risk an attempt to enter, but ran
along the coast W.N.W., looking out for a port, and saw many, but none
very clear of rocks. After having proceeded for 64 miles, he found a very
deep opening, a quarter of a mile wide, with a good port and river. He
ran in with her head S.S.W., afterwards south to S.E. The port[147-1] was
spacious and very deep, and he saw so many islands that he could not
count them all, with very high land covered with trees of many kinds,
and an infinite number of palms. He was much astonished to see so many
lofty islands; and assured the Sovereigns that the mountains and isles he
had seen since yesterday seemed to him to be second to none in the world;
so high and clear of clouds and snow, with the sea at their bases so
deep. He believes that these islands are those innumerable ones that are
depicted on the maps of the world in the Far East.[148-1] He believed
that they yielded very great riches in precious stones and spices and
that they extend much further to the south, widening out in all
directions. He gave the name of La Mar de Nuestra Senora, and to the
haven, which is near the mouth of the entrance to these islands, Puerto
del Principe. He did not enter it, but examined it from outside, until
another time, on Saturday of the next week, as will there appear. He
speaks highly of the fertility, beauty, and height of the islands which
he found in this gulf, and he tells the Sovereigns not to wonder at his
praise of them, for that he has not told them the hundredth part. Some of
them seemed to reach to heaven, running up into peaks like diamonds.
Others rising to a great height have a flat top like a table. At their
bases the sea is of a great depth, with enough water for a very large
carrack. All are covered with foliage and without rocks.
_Thursday, 15th of November_
The Admiral went to examine these islands in the ships' boats, and speaks
marvels of them, how he found mastic, and aloes without end. Some of them
were cultivated with the roots of which the Indians make bread; and he
found that fires had been lighted in several places. He saw no fresh
water. There were some natives, but they fled. In all parts of the sea
where the vessels were navigated he found a depth of 15 or 16 fathoms,
and all _basa_, by which he means that the ground is sand and not rocks;
a thing much desired by sailors, for the rocks cut their anchor cables.
_Friday, 16th of November_
As in all parts, whether islands or mainlands, that he visited, the
Admiral always left a cross; so, on this occasion, he went in a boat to
the entrance of these havens, and found two very large trees on a point
of land, one longer than the other. One being placed over the other, made
a cross, and he said that a carpenter could not have made it better. He
ordered a very large and high cross to be made out of these timbers. He
found canes on the beach, and did not know where they had grown, but
thought they must have been brought down by some river, and washed up on
the beach (in which opinion he had reason). He went to a creek on the
south-east side of the entrance to the port. Here, under a height of rock
and stone like a cape, there was depth enough for the largest carrack in
the world close in shore, and there was a corner where six ships might
lie without anchors as in a room. It seemed to the Admiral that a
fortress might be built here at small cost, if at any time any famous
trade should arise in that sea of islands.
Returning to the ship, he found that the Indians who were on board had
fished up very large shells found in those seas. He made the people
examine them, to see if there was mother-o'-pearl, which is in the shells
where pearls grow. They found a great deal, but no pearls, and their
absence was attributed to its not being the season, which is May and
June. The sailors found an animal which seemed to be a _taso_, or
_taxo_.[149-1] They also fished with nets, and, among many others, caught
a fish which was exactly like a pig, not like a tunny, but all covered
with a very hard shell, without a soft place except the tail and the
eyes, and a hole underneath to discharge its superfluities. It was
ordered to be salted, to bring home for the Sovereigns to see.[149-2]
_Saturday, 17th of November_
The Admiral got into the boat, and went to visit the islands he had not
yet seen to the S.W. He saw many more very fertile and pleasant islands,
with a great depth between them. Some of them had springs of fresh water,
and he believed that the water of those streams came from some sources at
the summits of the mountains. He went on, and found a beach bordering on
very sweet water, which was very cold. There was a beautiful meadow, and
many very tall palms. They found a large nut of the kind belonging to
India, great rats,[150-1] and enormous crabs. He saw many birds, and
there was a strong smell of musk, which made him think it must be there.
This day the two eldest of the six youths brought from the Rio de Mares,
who were on board the caravel _Nina_, made their escape.
_Sunday, 18th of November_
The Admiral again went away with the boats, accompanied by many of the
sailors, to set up the cross which he had ordered to be made out of the
two large trees at the entrance to the Puerto del Principe, on a fair
site cleared of trees, whence there was an extensive and very beautiful
view. He says that there is a greater rise and fall of the sea there than
in any other port he has seen, and that this is no marvel, considering
the numerous islands. The tide is the reverse of ours, because here, when
the moon is S.S.W., it is low water in the port. He did not get under
way, because it was Sunday.
_Monday, 19th of November_
The Admiral got under way before sunrise, in a calm. In the afternoon
there was some wind from the east, and he shaped a N.N.E. course. At
sunset the Puerto del Principe bore S.S.W. 7 leagues. He saw the island
of Babeque bearing due east about 60 miles. He steered N.E. all that
night, making 60 miles, and up to ten o'clock of Tuesday another dozen;
altogether 18 leagues N.E. b. W.
_Tuesday, 20th of November_
They left Babeque, or the islands of Babeque, to the E.S.E., the wind
being contrary; and, seeing that no progress was being made, and the sea
was getting rough, the Admiral determined to return to the Puerto del
Principe, whence he had started, which was 25 leagues distant. He did not
wish to go to the island he had called Isabella, which was twelve leagues
off, and where he might have anchored that night, for two reasons: one
was that he had seen two islands to the south which he wished to explore;
the other, because the Indians he brought with him, whom he had taken at
the island of Guanahani, which he named San Salvador, eight leagues from
Isabella, might get away, and he said that he wanted them to take to
Spain. They thought that, when the Admiral had found gold, he would let
them return to their homes. He came near the Puerto del Principe, but
could not reach it, because it was night, and because the current drifted
them to the N.W. He turned her head to N.E. with a light wind. At three
o'clock in the morning the wind changed, and a course was shaped E.N.E.,
the wind being S.S.W., and changing at dawn to south and S.E. At sunset
Puerto del Principe bore nearly S.W. by W. 48 miles, which are 12
leagues.
_Wednesday, 21st of November_
At sunrise the Admiral steered east, with a southerly wind, but made
little progress, owing to a contrary sea. At vespers he had gone 24
miles. Afterwards the wind changed to east and he steered S. b. E., at
sunset having gone 12 miles. Here he found himself forty-two degrees
north of the equinoctial line, as in the port of Mares, but he says that
he kept the result from the quadrant in suspense until he reached the
shore, that it might be adjusted (as it would seem that he thought this
distance was too great, and he had reason, it not being possible, as
these islands are only in ... degrees).[152-1] To believe the quadrant
was right he was led by seeing the north star as high as in Castile ...
Reinforcing this was the great heat which he says he found there.... From
this heat which the Admiral says he endured there he argued that in these
Indies and where he was going there must be much gold.[152-2]
This day Martin Alonso Pinzon parted company with the caravel _Pinta_, in
disobedience to and against the wish of the Admiral, and out of avarice,
thinking that an Indian who had been put on board his caravel could show
him where there was much gold. So he parted company, not owing to bad
weather, but because he chose. Here the Admiral says: "He had done and
said many other things to me."
_Thursday, 22nd of November_
On Wednesday night the Admiral steered S.S.E., with the wind east, but it
was nearly calm. At 3 it began to blow from N.N.E.; and he continued to
steer south to see the land he had seen in that quarter. When the sun
rose he was as far off as the day before, owing to adverse currents, the
land being 40 miles off. This night Martin Alonso shaped a course to the
east, to go to the island of Babeque, where the Indians say there is much
gold. He did this in sight of the Admiral, from whom he was distant 16
miles. The Admiral stood towards the land all night. He shortened sail,
and showed a lantern, because Pinzon would thus have an opportunity of
joining him, the night being very clear, and the wind fair to come, if he
had wished to do so.
_Friday, 23rd of November_
The Admiral stood towards the land all day, always steering south with
little wind, but the current would never let them reach it, being as far
off at sunset as in the morning. The wind was E.N.E., and they could
shape a southerly course, but there was little of it. Beyond this cape
there stretched out another land or cape, also trending east, which the
Indians on board called Bohio. They said that it was very large, and that
there were people in it who had one eye in their foreheads, and others
who were cannibals, and of whom they were much afraid.[153-1] When they
saw that this course was taken, they said that they could not talk to
these people because they would be eaten, and that they were very well
armed. The Admiral says that he well believes that there were such
people, and that if they are armed they must have some ability. He
thought that they may have captured some of the Indians, and because they
did not return to their homes, the others believed that they had been
eaten. They thought the same of the Christians and of the Admiral when
some of them first saw the strangers.
_Saturday, 24th of November_
They navigated all night, and at 3[153-2] they reached the level
island[153-3] at the very same point they had come to the week before,
when they started for the island of Babeque. At first the Admiral did not
dare to approach the shore, because it seemed that there would be a great
surf in that mountain-girded bay. Finally he reached the sea of Nuestra
Senora, where there are many islands, and entered a port near the mouth
of the opening to the islands. He says that if he had known of this port
before he need not have occupied himself in exploring the islands, and it
would not have been necessary to go back. He, however, considered that
the time was well spent in examining the islands. On nearing the land he
sent in the boat to sound, finding a good sandy bottom in 6 to 20
fathoms. He entered the haven, pointing the ship's head S.W. and then
west, the flat island bearing north. This, with another island near it,
forms a harbor which would hold all the ships of Spain safe from all
winds. This entrance on the S.W. side is passed by steering S.S.W., the
outlet being to the west very deep and wide. Thus a vessel can pass
amidst these islands, and he who approaches from the north, with a
knowledge of them can pass along the coast. These islands are at the foot
of a great mountain-chain running east and west, which is longer and
higher than any others on this coast, where there are many. A reef of
rocks outside runs parallel with the said mountains, like a bench,
extending to the entrance. On the side of the flat island, and also to
the S.E., there is another small reef, but between them there is great
width and depth. Within the port, near the S.E. side of the entrance,
they saw a large and very fine river,[154-1] with more volume than any
they had yet met with, and fresh water could be taken from it as far as
the sea. At the entrance there is a bar, but within it is very deep, 19
fathoms. The banks are lined with palms and many other trees.
_Sunday, 25th of November_
Before sunrise the Admiral got into the boat, and went to see a cape
or point of land[154-2] to the S.E. of the flat island, about a league
and a half distant, because there appeared to be a good river there.
Presently, near to the S.E. side of the cape, at a distance of two
cross-bow shots, he saw a large stream of beautiful water falling from
the mountains[154-3] above, with a loud noise. He went to it, and saw
some stones shining in its bed like gold.[154-4] He remembered that
in the river Tagus, near its junction with the sea, there was gold; so
it seemed to him that this should contain gold, and he ordered some of
these stones to be collected, to be brought to the Sovereigns. Just
then the sailor boys called out that they had found large pines. The
Admiral looked up the hill, and saw that they were so wonderfully
large that he could not exaggerate their height and straightness, like
stout yet fine spindles. He perceived that here there was material for
great store of planks and masts for the largest ships in Spain. He saw
oaks and arbutus trees,[155-1] with a good river, and the means of
making water-power.[155-2] The climate was temperate, owing to the
height of the mountains. On the beach he saw many other stones of the
color of iron, and others that some said were like silver ore, all
brought down by the river. Here he obtained a new mast and yard for
the mizzen of the caravel _Nina_. He came to the mouth of the river,
and entered a creek which was deep and wide, at the foot of that S.E.
part of the cape, which would accommodate a hundred ships without any
anchor or hawsers. Eyes never beheld a better harbor. The mountains
are very high, whence descend many limpid streams, and all the hills
are covered with pines, and an infinity of diverse and beautiful
trees. Two or three other rivers were not visited.
The Admiral described all this, in much detail, to the Sovereigns, and
declared that he had derived unspeakable joy and pleasure at seeing it,
more especially the pines, because they enable as many ships as is
desired to be built here, bringing out the rigging, but finding here
abundant supplies of wood and provisions. He affirms that he has not
enumerated a hundredth part of what there is here, and that it pleased
our Lord always to show him one thing better than another, as well on the
ground and among the trees, herbs, fruits, and flowers, as in the people,
and always something different in each place. It had been the same as
regards the havens and the waters. Finally, he says that if it caused
him who saw it so much wonder, how much more will it affect those who
hear about it; yet no one can believe until he sees it.
_Monday, 26th of November_
At sunrise the Admiral weighed the anchors in the haven of Santa
Catalina, where he was behind the flat island, and steered along the
coast in the direction of Cabo del Pico, which was S.E. He reached the
cape late, because the wind failed and then saw another cape, S.E. b. E.
60 miles, which, when 20 miles off, was named Cabo de Campana, but it
could not be reached that day. They made good 32 miles during the day,
which is 8 leagues. During this time the Admiral noted nine remarkable
ports,[156-1] which all the sailors thought wonderfully good, and five
large rivers; for they sailed close along the land, so as to see
everything. All along the coast there are very high and beautiful
mountains, not arid or rocky, but all accessible, and very lovely. The
valleys, like the mountains, were full of tall and fine trees, so that it
was a glory to look upon them, and there seemed to be many pines. Also,
beyond the said Cabo de Pico to the S.E. there are two islets, each about
two leagues round, and inside them three excellent havens and two large
rivers. Along the whole coast no inhabited places were visible from the
sea. There may have been some, and there were indications of them, for,
when the men landed, they found signs of people and numerous remains of
fires. The Admiral conjectured that the land he saw to-day S.E. of the
Cabo de Campana was the island called by the Indians Bohio:[156-2] it
looked as if this cape was separated from the mainland. The Admiral says
that all the people he has hitherto met with have very great fear of
those of Caniba or Canima. They affirm that they live in the island of
Bohio, which must be very large, according to all accounts. The Admiral
understood that those of Caniba come to take people from their homes,
they being very cowardly, and without knowledge of arms. For this use it
appears that these Indians do not settle on the sea-coast owing to being
near the land of Caniba. When the natives who were on board saw a course
shaped for that land, they feared to speak, thinking they were going to
be eaten; nor could they rid themselves of their fear. They declared that
the Canibas[157-1] had only one eye and dogs' faces. The Admiral thought
they lied, and was inclined to believe that it was people from the
dominions of the Gran Can who took them into captivity.
_Tuesday, 27th of November_
Yesterday, at sunset, they arrived near a cape named Campana by the
Admiral; and, as the sky was clear and the wind light, he did not wish to
run in close to the land and anchor, although he had five or six
singularly good havens under his lee. The Admiral was attracted on the
one hand by the longing and delight he felt to gaze upon the beauty and
freshness of those lands, and on the other by a desire to complete the
work he had undertaken. For these reasons he remained close hauled, and
stood off and on during the night. But, as the currents had set him more
than 5 or 6 leagues to the S.E. beyond where he had been at nightfall,
passing the land of Campana, he came in sight of a great opening beyond
that cape, which seemed to divide one land from another, leaving an
island between them. He decided to go back, with the wind S.E., steering
to the point where the opening had appeared, where he found that it was
only a large bay,[157-2] and at the end of it, on the S.E. side, there
was a point of land on which was a high and square-cut hill,[157-3] which
had looked like an island. A breeze sprang up from the north, and the
Admiral continued on a S.E. course, to explore the coast and discover all
that was there. Presently he saw, at the foot of the Cabo de Campana, a
wonderfully good port[158-1], and a large river, and, a quarter of a
league on, another river, and a third, and a fourth to a seventh at
similar distances, from the furthest one to Cabo de Campana being 20
miles S.E. Most of these rivers have wide and deep mouths, with excellent
havens for large ships, without sandbanks or sunken rocks. Proceeding
onwards from the last of these rivers, on a S.E. course, they came to the
largest inhabited place they had yet seen, and a vast concourse of people
came down to the beach with loud shouts, all naked, with their darts in
their hands. The Admiral desired to have speech with them, so he furled
sails and anchored. The boats of the ship and the caravel were sent on
shore, with orders to do no harm whatever to the Indians, but to give
them presents. The Indians made as if they would resist the landing, but,
seeing that the boats of the Spaniards continued to advance without fear,
they retired from the beach. Thinking that they would not be terrified if
only two or three landed, three Christians were put on shore, who told
them not to be afraid, in their own language, for they had been able to
learn a little from the natives who were on board. But all ran away,
neither great nor small remaining. The Christians went to the houses,
which were of straw, and built like the others they had seen, but found
no one in any of them. They returned to the ships, and made sail at noon
in the direction of a fine cape[158-2] to the eastward, about 8 leagues
distant. Having gone about half a league, the Admiral saw, on the south
side of the same bay, a very remarkable harbor[158-3], and to the S.E.
some wonderfully beautiful country like a valley among the mountains,
whence much smoke arose, indicating a large population, with signs of
much cultivation. So he resolved to stop at this port, and see if he
could have any speech or intercourse with the inhabitants. It was so
that, if the Admiral had praised the other havens, he must praise this
still more for its lands, climate, and people. He tells marvels of the
beauty of the country and of the trees, there being palms and pine trees;
and also of the great valley which is not flat, but diversified by hill
and dale, the most lovely scene in the world. Many streams flow from it,
which fall from the mountains.
As soon as the ship was at anchor the Admiral jumped into the boat, to
get soundings in the port, which is the shape of a hammer. When he was
facing the entrance he found the mouth of a river on the south side of
sufficient width for a galley to enter it, but so concealed that it is
not visible until close to. Entering it for the length of the boat, there
was a depth of from 5 to 8 fathoms. In passing up it the freshness and
beauty of the trees, the clearness of the water, and the birds, made it
all so delightful that he wished never to leave them. He said to the men
who were with him that to give a true relation to the Sovereigns of the
things they had seen, a thousand tongues would not suffice, nor his hand
to write it, for that it was like a scene of enchantment. He desired that
many other prudent and credible witnesses might see it, and he was sure
that they would be as unable to exaggerate the scene as he was.
The Admiral also says:--"How great the benefit that is to be derived from
this country would be, I cannot say. It is certain that where there are
such lands there must be an infinite number of things that would be
profitable. But I did not remain long in one port, because I wished to
see as much of the country as possible, in order to make a report upon it
to your Highnesses; and besides, I do not know the language, and these
people neither understand me nor any other in my company; while the
Indians I have on board often misunderstand. Moreover, I have not been
able to see much of the natives, because they often take to flight. But
now, if our Lord pleases, I will see as much as possible, and will
proceed by little and little, learning and comprehending; and I will make
some of my followers learn the language. For I have perceived that there
is only one language up to this point. After they understand the
advantages, I shall labor to make all these people Christians. They will
become so readily, because they have no religion nor idolatry, and your
Highnesses will send orders to build a city and fortress, and to convert
the people. I assure your Highnesses that it does not appear to me that
there can be a more fertile country nor a better climate under the sun,
with abundant supplies of water. This is not like the rivers of Guinea,
which are all pestilential. I thank our Lord that, up to this time, there
has not been a person of my company who has had so much as a headache, or
been in bed from illness, except an old man who has suffered from the
stone all his life, and he was well again in two days. I speak of all
three vessels. If it will please God that your Highnesses should send
learned men out here, they will see the truth of all I have said. I have
related already how good a place Rio de Mares would be for a town and
fortress, and this is perfectly true; but it bears no comparison with
this place, nor with the Mar de Nuestra Senora. For here there must be a
large population, and very valuable productions, which I hope to discover
before I return to Castile. I say that if Christendom will find profit
among these people, how much more will Spain, to whom the whole country
should be subject. Your Highnesses ought not to consent that any stranger
should trade here, or put his foot in the country, except Catholic
Christians, for this was the beginning and end of the undertaking;
namely, the increase and glory of the Christian religion, and that no one
should come to these parts who was not a good Christian."[160-1]
All the above are the Admiral's words. He ascended the river for some
distance, examined some branches of it, and, returning to the mouth,
he found some pleasant groves of trees, like a delightful orchard.
Here he came upon a boat or _canoa_, dug out of one tree as big as a
_fusta_[161-1] of twelve benches, fastened under a boat-house or bower
made of wood, and thatched with palm-leaves, so that it could be
neither injured by sun nor by the water. He says that here would be
the proper site for a town and fort, by reason of the good port, good
water, good land, and abundance of fuel.
_Wednesday, 28th of November_
The Admiral remained during this day, in consequence of the rain and
thick weather, though he might have run along the coast, the wind being
S.W., but he did not weigh, because he was unacquainted with the coast
beyond, and did not know what danger there might be for the vessels. The
sailors of the two vessels went on shore to wash their clothes, and some
of them walked inland for a short distance. They found indications of a
large population, but the houses were all empty, everyone having fled.
They returned by the banks of another river, larger than that which they
knew of, at the port.
_Thursday, 29th of November_
The rain and thick weather continuing, the Admiral did not get under way.
Some of the Christians went to another village to the N.W., but found no
one, and nothing in the houses. On the road they met an old man who could
not run away, and caught him. They told him they did not wish to do him
any harm, gave him a few presents, and let him go. The Admiral would have
liked to have had speech with him, for he was exceedingly satisfied with
the delights of that land, and wished that a settlement might be formed
there, judging that it must support a large population. In one house they
found a cake of wax,[161-2] which was taken to the Sovereigns, the
Admiral saying that where there was wax there were also a thousand other
good things. The sailors also found, in one house, the head of a man in a
basket, covered with another basket, and fastened to a post of the house.
They found the same things in another village. The Admiral believed that
they must be the heads of some founder, or principal ancestor of a
lineage, for the houses are built to contain a great number of people in
each; and these should be relations, and descendants of a common
ancestor.
_Friday, 30th of November_
They could not get under way to-day because the wind was east, and dead
against them. The Admiral sent 8 men well armed, accompanied by two of
the Indians he had on board, to examine the villages inland, and get
speech with the people. They came to many houses, but found no one and
nothing, all having fled. They saw four youths who were digging in
their fields, but, as soon as they saw the Christians, they ran away,
and could not be overtaken. They marched a long distance, and saw many
villages and a most fertile land, with much cultivation and many
streams of water. Near one river they saw a canoe dug out of a single
tree, 95 _palmos_[162-1] long, and capable of carrying 150 persons.
_Saturday, 1st of December_
They did not depart, because there was still a foul wind, with much rain.
The Admiral set up a cross at the entrance of this port, which he called
Puerto Santo,[162-2] on some bare rocks. The point is that which is on
the S.E. side of the entrance; but he who has to enter should make more
over to the N.W.; for at the foot of both, near the rock, there are 12
fathoms and a very clean bottom. At the entrance of the port, toward the
S.E. point, there is a reef of rocks above water,[163-1] sufficiently far
from the shore to enable one to pass between if it is necessary, for both
on the side of the rock and the shore there is a depth of 12 to 15
fathoms; and, on entering, a ship's head should be turned S.W.
_Sunday, 2nd of December_
The wind was still contrary, and they could not depart. Every night the
wind blows on the land, but no vessel need be alarmed at all the gales in
the world, for they cannot blow home by reason of a reef of rocks at the
opening to the haven, etc. A sailor-boy found, at the mouth of the river,
some stones which looked as if they contained gold; so they were taken to
be shown to the Sovereigns. The Admiral says that there are great rivers
at the distance of a lombard shot.[163-2]
_Monday, 3rd of December_
By reason of the continuance of an easterly wind the Admiral did not
leave this port. He arranged to visit a very beautiful headland a quarter
of a league to the S.E. of the anchorage. He went with the boats and some
armed men. At the foot of the cape there was the mouth of a fair river,
and on entering it they found the width to be a hundred paces, with a
depth of one fathom. Inside they found 12, 5, 4, and 2 fathoms, so that
it would hold all the ships there are in Spain. Leaving the river, they
came to a cove in which were five very large canoes,[164-1] so well
constructed that it was a pleasure to look at them. They were under
spreading trees, and a path led from them to a very well-built
boat-house, so thatched that neither sun nor rain could do any harm.
Within it there was another canoe made out of a single tree like the
others, like a _fusta_ with 17 benches. It was a pleasant sight to look
upon such goodly work. The Admiral ascended a mountain, and afterwards
found the country level, and cultivated with many things of that land,
including such calabashes, as it was a glory to look upon them.[164-2] In
the middle there was a large village, and they came upon the people
suddenly; but, as soon as they were seen, men and women took to flight.
The Indian from on board, who was with the Admiral, cried out to them
that they need not be afraid, as the strangers were good people. The
Admiral made him give them bells, copper ornaments, and glass beads,
green and yellow, with which they were well content. He saw that they had
no gold nor any other precious thing, and that it would suffice to leave
them in peace. The whole district was well peopled, the rest having fled
from fear. The Admiral assures the Sovereigns that ten thousand of these
men would run from ten, so cowardly and timid are they. No arms are
carried by them, except wands,[164-3] on the point of which a short piece
of wood is fixed, hardened by fire, and these they are very ready to
exchange. Returning to where he had left the boats, he sent back some men
up the hill, because he fancied he had seen a large apiary. Before those
he had sent could return, they were joined by many Indians, and they
went to the boats, where the Admiral was waiting with all his people. One
of the natives advanced into the river near the stern of the boat, and
made a long speech, which the Admiral did not understand. At intervals
the other Indians raised their hands to Heaven, and shouted. The Admiral
thought he was assuring him that he was pleased at his arrival; but he
saw the Indian who came from the ship change the color of his face, and
turn as yellow as wax, trembling much, and letting the Admiral know by
signs that he should leave the river, as they were going to kill him. He
pointed to a cross-bow which one of the Spaniards had, and showed it to
the Indians, and the Admiral let it be understood that they would all be
slain, because that cross-bow carried far and killed people. He also took
a sword and drew it out of the sheath, showing it to them, and saying the
same, which, when they had heard, they all took to flight; while the
Indian from the ship still trembled from cowardice, though he was a tall,
strong man. The Admiral did not want to leave the river, but pulled
towards the place where the natives had assembled in great numbers, all
painted, and as naked as when their mothers bore them. Some had tufts of
feathers on their heads, and all had their bundles of darts.
The Admiral says: "I came to them, and gave them some mouthfuls of bread,
asking for the darts, for which I gave in exchange copper ornaments,
bells, and glass beads. This made them peaceable, so that they came to
the boats again, and gave us what they had. The sailors had killed a
turtle, and the shell was in the boat in pieces. The sailor-boys gave
them some in exchange for a bundle of darts. These are like the other
people we have seen, and with the same belief that we came from Heaven.
They are ready to give whatever thing they have in exchange for any
trifle without saying it is little; and I believe they would do the same
with gold and spices if they had any. I saw a fine house, not very large,
and with two doors, as all the rest have. On entering, I saw a marvellous
work, there being rooms made in a peculiar way, that I scarcely know how
to describe it. Shells and other things were fastened to the ceiling. I
thought it was a temple, and I called them and asked, by signs, whether
prayers were offered up there. They said that they were not, and one of
them climbed up and offered me all the things that were there, of which I
took some."
_Tuesday, 4th of December_
The Admiral made sail with little wind, and left that port, which he
called Puerto Santo. After going two leagues, he saw the great
river[166-1] of which he spoke yesterday. Passing along the land, and
beating to windward on S.E. and W.N.W. courses, they reached Cabo
Lindo,[166-2] which is E.S.E. 5 leagues from Cabo del Monte. A league and
a half from Cabo del Monte there is an important but rather narrow river,
which seemed to have a good entrance, and to be deep. Three-quarters of a
league further on, the Admiral saw another very large river, and he
thought it must have its source at a great distance. It had a hundred
paces at its mouth, and no bar, with a depth of 8 fathoms. The Admiral
sent the boat in, to take soundings, and they found the water fresh until
it enters the sea.
This river had great volume, and must have a large population on its
banks. Beyond Cabo Lindo there is a great bay, which would be open for
navigation to E.N.E. and S.E. and S.S.W.
_Wednesday, 5th of December_
All this night they were beating to windward off Cape Lindo, to reach the
land to the east, and at sunrise the Admiral sighted another cape,[166-3]
two and a half leagues to the east. Having passed it, he saw that the
land trended S. and S.W., and presently saw a fine high cape in that
direction, 7 leagues distant.[167-1] He would have wished to go there,
but his object was to reach the island of Babeque, which, according to
the Indians, bore N.E.; so he gave up the intention. He could not go to
Babeque either, because the wind was N.E. Looking to the S.E., he saw
land, which was a very large island, according to the information of the
Indians, well peopled, and called by them Bohio.[167-2] The Admiral says
that the inhabitants of Cuba, or Juana,[167-3] and of all the other
islands, are much afraid of the inhabitants of Bohio, because they say
that they eat people. The Indians relate other things, by signs, which
are very wonderful; but the Admiral did not believe them. He only
inferred that those of Bohio must have more cleverness and cunning to be
able to capture the others, who, however, are very poor-spirited. The
wind veered from N.E. to North, so the Admiral determined to leave Cuba,
or Juana, which, up to this time, he had supposed to be the mainland, on
account of its size, having coasted along it for 120 leagues.[167-4] He
shaped a course S.E. b. E., the land he had sighted bearing S.E.; taking
this precaution because the wind always veered from N. to N.E. again, and
thence to east and S.E. The wind increased, and he made all sail, the
current helping them; so that they were making 8 miles an hour from the
morning until one in the afternoon (which is barely 6 hours, for they say
that the nights were nearly 15 hours). Afterwards they went 10 miles an
hour, making good 88 miles by sunset, equal to 22 leagues, all to the
S.E. As night was coming on, the Admiral ordered the caravel _Nina_,
being a good sailer, to proceed ahead, so as to sight a harbor at
daylight. Arriving at the entrance of a port which was like the Bay of
Cadiz, while it was still dark, a boat was sent in to take soundings,
which showed a light from a lantern. Before the Admiral could beat up to
where the caravel was, hoping that the boat would show a leading-mark for
entering the port, the candle in the lantern went out. The caravel, not
seeing the light, showed a light to the Admiral, and, running down to
him, related what had happened. The boat's crew then showed another
light, and the caravel made for it; but the Admiral could not do so, and
was standing off and on all night.
_Thursday, 6th of December_
When daylight arrived the Admiral found himself four leagues from the
port, to which he gave the name of Puerto Maria,[168-1] and to a fine
cape bearing S.S.W. he gave the name of Cabo de la Estrella.[168-2] It
seemed to be the furthest point of the island towards the south, distant
28 miles. Another point of land, like an island, appeared about 40 miles
to the east. To another fine point, 54 miles to the east, he gave the
name of Cabo del Elefante,[168-3] and he called another, 28 miles to the
S.E., Cabo de Cinquin. There was a great opening or bay, which might be
the mouth of a river,[168-4] distant 20 miles. It seemed that between
Cabo del Elefante and that of Cinquin there was a great opening,[168-5]
and some of the sailors said that it formed an island, to which the name
of Isla de la Tortuga[168-6] was given. The island appeared to be very
high land, not closed in with mountains, but with beautiful valleys, well
cultivated, the crops appearing like the wheat on the plain of Cordova in
May. That night they saw many fires, and much smoke, as if from
workshops,[169-1] in the day time; it appeared to be a signal made by
people who were at war. All the coast of this land trends to the east.
At the hour of vespers the Admiral reached this port, to which he gave
the name of Puerto de San Nicolas, in honor of St. Nicholas, whose day it
was;[169-2] and on entering it he was astonished at its beauty and
excellence. Although he had given great praise to the ports of Cuba, he
had no doubt that this one not only equalled, but excelled them, and none
of them are like it. At the entrance it is a league and a half wide, and
a vessel's head should be turned S.S.E., though, owing to the great
width, she may be steered on any bearing that is convenient; proceeding
on this course for two leagues.[169-3] On the south side of the entrance
the coast forms a cape, and thence the course is almost the same as far
as a point where there is a fine beach, and a plain covered with
fruit-bearing trees of many kinds; so that the Admiral thought there must
be nutmegs and other spices among them, but he did not know them, and
they were not ripe. There is a river falling into the harbor, near the
middle of the beach. The depth of this port is surprising, for, until
reaching the land, for a distance of ...[169-4] the lead did not reach
the bottom at 40 fathoms; and up to this length there are 15 fathoms with
a very clean bottom. Throughout the port there is a depth of 15 fathoms,
with a clean bottom, at a short distance from the shore; and all along
the coast there are soundings with clean bottom, and not a single sunken
rock. Inside, at the length of a boat's oar from the land, there are 5
fathoms. Beyond the limit of the port to the S.S.E. a thousand carracks
could beat up. One branch of the port to the N.E. runs into the land for
a long half league, and always the same width, as if it had been measured
with a cord. Being in this creek, which is 25 paces wide, the principal
entrance to the harbor is not in sight, so that it appears
land-locked.[170-1] The depth of this creek is 11 fathoms throughout, all
with clean bottom; and close to the land, where one might put the
gangboards on the grass, there are eight fathoms.
The whole port is open to the air, and clear of trees. All the island
appeared to be more rocky than any that had been discovered. The trees
are smaller, and many of them of the same kinds as are found in Spain,
such as the ilex, the arbutus and others, and it is the same with the
herbs. It is a very high country, all open and clear, with a very fine
air, and no such cold has been met with elsewhere, though it cannot be
called cold except by comparison. Towards the front of the haven there is
a beautiful valley, watered by a river; and in that district there must
be many inhabitants, judging from the number of large canoes, like
galleys, with 15 benches. All the natives fled as soon as they saw the
ships. The Indians who were on board had such a longing to return to
their homes that the Admiral considered whether he should not take them
back when he should depart from here. They were already suspicious,
because he did not shape a course towards their country; whence he
neither believed what they said, nor could he understand them, nor they
him, properly. The Indians on board had the greatest fear in the world of
the people of this island. In order to get speech of the people it would
be necessary to remain some days in harbor; but the Admiral did not do
so, because he had to continue his discoveries, and because he could not
tell how long he might be detained. He trusted in our Lord that the
Indians he brought with him would understand the language of the people
of this island; and afterwards he would communicate with them, trusting
that it might please God's Majesty that he might find trade in gold
before he returned.
_Friday, 7th of December_
At daybreak the Admiral got under way, made sail, and left the port of
St. Nicholas. He went on with the wind in the west for two leagues,
until he reached the point which forms the Carenero, when the angle in
the coast bore S.E., and the Cabo de la Estrella was 24 miles to the
S.W. Thence he steered along the coast eastward to Cabo Cinquin about
48 miles, 20 of them being on an E.N.E. coast. All the coast is very
high, with a deep sea. Close in shore there are 20 to 30 fathoms, and
at the distance of a lombard-shot there is no bottom; all which the
Admiral discovered that day, as he sailed along the coast with the
wind S.W., much to his satisfaction. The cape, which runs out in the
port of St. Nicholas the length of a shot from a lombard, could be
made an island by cutting across it, while to sail round it is a
circuit of 3 or 4 miles. All that land is very high, not clothed with
very high trees, but with ilex, arbutus, and others proper to the land
of Castile. Before reaching Cape Cinquin by two leagues, the Admiral
discovered a small roadstead[171-1] like an opening in the mountains,
through which he could see a very large valley, covered with crops
like barley, and he therefore judged that it must sustain a large
population. Behind there was a high range of mountains. On reaching
Cabo Cinquin, the Cabo de la Tortuga bore N.E. 32 miles.[171-2] Off
Cabo Cinquin, at the distance of a lombard-shot, there is a high rock,
which is a good landmark. The Admiral being there, he took the bearing
of Cabo del Elefante, which was E.S.E. about 70 miles,[171-3] the
intervening land being very high. At a distance of 6 leagues there was
a conspicuous cape,[171-4] and he saw many large valleys and plains,
and high mountains inland, all reminding him of Spain. After 8 leagues
he came to a very deep but narrow river, though a carrack might
easily enter it, and the mouth without bar or rocks. After 16 miles
there was a wide and deep harbor,[172-1] with on bottom at the
entrance, nor, at 3 paces from the shore, less than 15 fathoms; and it
runs inland a quarter of a league. It being yet very early, only one
o'clock in the afternoon, and the wind being aft and blowing fresh,
yet, as the sky threatened much rain, and it was very thick, which is
dangerous even on a known coast, how much more in an unknown country,
the Admiral resolved to enter the port, which he called Puerto de la
Concepcion. He landed near a small river at the point of the haven,
flowing from valleys and plains, the beauty of which was a marvel to
behold. He took fishing-nets with him; and, before he landed, a
mullet, like those of Spain, jumped into the boat, this being the
first time they had seen fish resembling the fish of Castile. The
sailors caught and killed others and soles and other fish like those
of Castile. Walking a short distance inland, the Admiral found much
land under cultivation, and heard the singing of nightingales and
other birds of Castile. Five men were seen, but they would not stop,
running away. The Admiral found myrtles and other trees and plants,
like those of Castile, and so also were the land and mountains.[172-2]
_Saturday, 8th of December_
In this port there was heavy rain, with a fresh breeze from the north.
The harbor is protected from all winds except the north; but even this
can do no harm whatever, because there is a great surf outside, which
prevents such a sea within the river as would make a ship work on her
cables. After midnight the wind veered to N.E., and then to east, from
which winds this port is well sheltered by the island of Tortuga, distant
36 miles.[172-3]
_Sunday, 9th of December_
To-day it rained, and the weather was wintry, like October Castile. No
habitations had been seen except a very beautiful house in the Puerto de
S. Nicolas, which was better built than any that had been in other parts.
"The island is very large" says the Admiral: "it would not be much if it
has a circumference of 200 leagues. All the parts he had seen were well
cultivated. He believed that the villages must be at a distance from the
sea, whither they went when the ships arrived; for they all took to
flight, taking everything with them, and they made smoke-signals, like a
people at war."[TN-2] This port has a width of a thousand paces at its
entrance, equal to a quarter of a league. There is neither bank nor reef
within, and there are scarcely soundings close in shore. Its length,
running inland, is 3000 paces, all clean, and with a sandy bottom; so
that any ship may anchor in it without fear, and enter it without
precaution. At the upper end there are the mouths of two rivers, with the
most beautiful champaign country, almost like the lands of Spain: these
even have the advantage; for which reasons the Admiral gave the name of
the said island Isla Espanola.[173-1]
_Monday, 10th of December_
It blew hard from the N.E., which made them drag their anchors half a
cable's length. This surprised the Admiral, who had seen that the
anchors had taken good hold of the ground. As he saw that the wind was
foul for the direction in which he wanted to steer, he sent six men on
shore, well armed to go two or three leagues inland, and endeavor to open
communications with the natives. They came and returned without having
seen either people or houses. But they found some hovels, wide roads, and
some places where many fires had been made. They saw excellent lands, and
many mastic trees, some specimens of which they took; but this is not the
time for collecting it, as it does not coagulate.
_Tuesday, 11th of December_
The Admiral did not depart, because the wind was still east and S.E. In
front of this port, as has been said, is the island of La Tortuga. It
appears to be a large island, with the coast almost like that of
Espanola, and the distance between them is about ten leagues.[174-1] It
is well to know that from the Cabo de Cinquin, opposite Tortuga, the
coast trends to the south. The Admiral had a great desire to see that
channel between these two islands, and to examine the island of Espanola,
which is the most beautiful thing in the world. According to what the
Indians said who were on board, he would have to go to the island of
Babeque. They declared that it was very large, with great mountains,
rivers, and valleys; and that the island of Bohio was larger than Juana,
which they call Cuba, and that it is not surrounded by water. They seem
to imply that there is mainland behind Espanola, and they call it
Caritaba, and say it is of vast extent. They have reason in saying that
the inhabitants are a clever race, for all the people of these islands
are in great fear of those of Caniba. So the Admiral repeats, what he has
said before, that Caniba is nothing else but the Gran Can, who ought now
to be very near. He sends ships to capture the islanders; and as they do
not return, their countrymen believe that they have been eaten. Each day
we understand better what the Indians say, and they us, so that very
often we are intelligible to each other. The Admiral sent people on
shore, who found a great deal of mastic, but did not gather it. He says
that the rains make it, and that in Chios they collect it in March. In
these lands, being warmer, they might take it in January. They caught
many fish like those of Castile--dace, salmon, hake, dory, gilt heads,
mullets, _corbinas_, shrimps,[175-1] and they saw sardines. They found
many aloes.[175-2]
_Wednesday, 12th of December_
The Admiral did not leave the port to-day, for the same reason: a
contrary wind. He set up a great cross on the west side of the entrance,
on a very picturesque height, "in sign," he says, "that your Highnesses
hold this land for your own, but chiefly as a sign of our Lord Jesus
Christ." This being done, three sailors strolled into the woods to see
the trees and bushes. Suddenly they came upon a crowd of people, all
naked like the rest. They called to them, and went towards them, but they
ran away. At last they caught a woman; for I had ordered that some should
be caught, that they might be treated well, and made to lose their fear.
This would be a useful event, for it could scarcely be otherwise,
considering the beauty of the country. So they took the woman, who was
very young and beautiful, to the ship, where she talked to the Indians on
board; for they all speak the same language. The Admiral caused her to be
dressed, and gave her glass beads, hawks' bells, and brass ornaments;
then he sent her back to the shore very courteously, according to his
custom. He sent three of the crew with her, and three of the Indians he
had on board, that they might open communications with her people. The
sailors in the boat, who took her on shore, told the Admiral that she did
not want to leave the ship, but would rather remain with the other women
he had seized at the port of Mares, in the island of Juana or Cuba. The
Indians who went to put the woman on shore said that the natives came in
a canoe, which is their caravel, in which they navigate from one place to
another; but when they came to the entrance of the harbor, and saw the
ships, they turned back, left the canoe, and took the road to the
village. The woman pointed out the position of the village. She had a
piece of gold in her nose, which showed that there was gold in that
island.
_Thursday, 13th of December_
The three men who had been sent by the Admiral with the woman returned at
3 o'clock in the morning, not having gone with her to the village,
because the distance appeared to be long, or because they were afraid.
They said that next day many people would come to the ships, as they
would have been reassured by the news brought them by the woman. The
Admiral, with the desire of ascertaining whether there were any
profitable commodities in that land, being so beautiful and fertile, and
of having some speech with the people, and being desirous of serving the
Sovereigns, determined to send again to the village, trusting in the news
brought by the woman that the Christians were good people. For this
service he selected nine men well armed, and suited for such an
enterprise, with whom an Indian went from those who were on board. They
reached the village, which is 4-1/2 leagues to the S.E., and found that
it was situated in a very large and open valley. As soon as the
inhabitants saw the Christians coming they all fled inland, leaving all
their goods behind them. The village consisted of a thousand houses, with
over three thousand inhabitants. The Indian whom the Christians had
brought with them ran after the fugitives, saying that they should have
no fear, for the Christians did not come from Cariba, but were from
Heaven, and that they gave many beautiful things to all the people they
met. They were so impressed with what he said, that upwards of two
thousand came close up to the Christians, putting their hands on their
heads, which was a sign of great reverence and friendship; and they were
all trembling until they were reassured. The Christians related that, as
soon as the natives had cast off their fear, they all went to the houses,
and each one brought what he had to eat, consisting of yams,[177-1] which
are roots like large radishes, which they sow and cultivate in all their
lands, and is their staple food. They make bread of it, and roast it. The
yam has the smell of a chestnut, and anyone would think he was eating
chestnuts. They gave their guests bread and fish, and all they had. As
the Indians who came in the ship had understood that the Admiral wanted
to have some parrots, one of those who accompanied the Spaniards
mentioned this, and the natives brought out parrots, and gave them as
many as they wanted, without asking anything for them. The natives asked
the Spaniards not to go that night, and that they would give them many
other things that they had in the mountains. While all these people were
with the Spaniards, a great multitude was seen to come, with the husband
of the woman whom the Admiral had honored and sent away. They wore hair
over their shoulders, and came to give thanks to the Christians for the
honor the Admiral had done them, and for the gifts. The Christians
reported to the Admiral that this was a handsomer and finer people than
any that had hitherto been met with. But the Admiral says that he does
not see how they can be a finer people than the others, giving to
understand that all those he had found in the other islands were very
well conditioned. As regards beauty, the Christians said there was no
comparison, both men and women, and that their skins are whiter than the
others. They saw two girls whose skins were as white as any that could be
seen in Spain. They also said, with regard to the beauty of the country
they saw, that the best land in Castile could not be compared with it.
The Admiral also, comparing the lands they had seen before with these,
said that there was no comparison between them, nor did the plain of
Cordova come near them, the difference being as great as between night
and day. They said that all these lands were cultivated, and that a very
wide and large river passed through the centre of the valley, and could
irrigate all the fields. All the trees were green and full of fruit, and
the plants tall and covered with flowers. The roads were broad and good.
The climate was like April in Castile; the nightingale and other birds
sang as they do in Spain during that month, and it was the most pleasant
place in the world. Some birds sing sweetly at night. The crickets and
frogs are heard a good deal. The fish are like those of Spain. They saw
much aloe and mastic, and cotton-fields. Gold was not found, and it is
not wonderful that it should not have been found in so short a time.
Here the Admiral calculated the number of hours in the day and night, and
from sunrise to sunset. He found that twenty half-hour glasses passed,
though he says that here there may be a mistake, either because they were
not turned with equal quickness, or because some sand may not have
passed. He also observed with a quadrant, and found that he was 34
degrees from the equinoctial line.[178-1]
_Friday, 14th of December_
The Admiral left the Puerto de la Concepcion with the land-breeze, but
soon afterwards it fell calm (and this is experienced every day by those
who are on this coast). Later an east wind sprang up, so he steered
N.N.E., and arrived at the island of Tortuga. He sighted a point which he
named Punta Pierna, E.N.E. of the end of the island 12 miles; and from
thence another point was seen and named Punta Lanzada, in the same N.E.
direction 16 miles. Thus from the end of Tortuga to Punta Aguda the
distance is 44 miles, which is 11 leagues E.N.E. Along this route there
are several long stretches of beach. The island of Tortuga is very high,
but not mountainous, and is very beautiful and populous, like Espanola,
and the land is cultivated, so that it looked like the plain of Cordova.
Seeing that the wind was foul, and that he could not steer for the island
of Baneque,[179-1] he determined to return to the Puerto de la Concepcion
whence he had come; but he could not fetch a river which is two leagues
to the east of that port.
_Saturday, 15th of December_
Once more the Admiral left the Puerto de la Concepcion, but, on leaving
the port, he was again met by a contrary east wind. He stood over to
Tortuga, and then steered with the object of exploring the river he had
been unable to reach yesterday; nor was he able to fetch the river this
time, but he anchored half a league to leeward of it, where there was
clean and good anchoring ground. As soon as the vessels were secured, he
went with the boats to the river, entering an arm of the sea, which
proved not to be the river. Returning, he found the mouth, there being
only one, and the current very strong. He went in with the boats to find
the villagers that had been seen the day before. He ordered a tow-rope to
be got out and manned by the sailors, who hauled the boats up for a
distance of two lombard-shots. They could not get further owing to the
strength of the current. He saw some houses, and the large valley where
the villages were, and he said that a more beautiful valley he had never
seen, this river flowing through the centre of it. He also saw people at
the entrance, but they all took to flight. He further says that these
people must be much hunted, for they live in such a state of fear. When
the ships arrived at any port, they presently made signals by fires on
heights throughout the country; and this is done more in this island of
Espanola and in Tortuga, which is also a large island, than in the others
that were visited before. He called this valley Valle del Paraiso,[180-1]
and the river Guadalquivir; because he says that it is the size of the
Guadalquivir at Cordova. The banks consist of shingle, suitable for
walking.[180-2]
_Sunday, 16th of December_
At midnight the Admiral made sail with the land-breeze to get clear of
that gulf. Passing along the coast of Espanola on a bowline, for the wind
had veered to the east, he met a canoe in the middle of the gulf, with a
single Indian in it. The Admiral was surprised how he could have kept
afloat with such a gale blowing. Both the Indian and his canoe were taken
on board, and he was given glass beads, bells, and brass trinkets, and
taken in the ship, until she was off a village 17 miles from the former
anchorage, where the Admiral came to again. The village appeared to have
been lately built, for all the houses were new. The Indian then went on
shore in his canoe, bringing the news that the Admiral and his companions
were good people; although the intelligence had already been conveyed to
the village from the place where the natives had their interview with the
six Spaniards. Presently more than five hundred natives with their king
came to the shore opposite the ships, which were anchored very close to
the land. Presently one by one, then many by many, came to the ship
without bringing anything with them, except that some had a few grains of
very fine gold in their ears and noses, which they readily gave away. The
Admiral ordered them all to be well treated; and he says: "for they are
the best people in the world, and the gentlest; and above all I entertain
the hope in our Lord that your Highnesses will make them all Christians,
and that they will be all your subjects, for as yours I hold them." He
also saw that they all treated the king with respect, who was on the
sea-shore. The Admiral sent him a present, which he received in great
state. He was a youth of about 21 years of age, and he had with him an
aged tutor, and other councillors who advised and answered him, but he
uttered very few words. One of the Indians who had come in the Admiral's
ship spoke to him, telling him how the Christians had come from Heaven,
and how they came in search of gold, and wished to find the island of
Baneque. He said that it was well and that there was much gold in the
said island. He explained to the alguazil of the Admiral[181-1] that the
way they were going was the right way, and that in two days they would be
there; adding, that if they wanted anything from the shore he would give
it them with great pleasure. This king, and all the others, go naked as
their mothers bore them, as do the women without any covering, and these
were the most beautiful men and women that had yet been met with. They
are fairly white, and if they were clothed and protected from the sun and
air, they would be almost as fair as people in Spain. This land is cool,
and the best that words can describe. It is very high, yet the top of the
highest mountain could be ploughed with bullocks; and all is diversified
with plains and valleys. In all Castile there is no land that can be
compared with this for beauty and fertility. All this island, as well as
the island of Tortuga, is cultivated like the plain of Cordova. They
raise on these lands crops of yams,[181-2] which are small branches, at
the foot of which grow roots like carrots, which serve as bread. They
powder and knead them, and make them into bread; then they plant the same
branch in another part, which again sends out four or five of the same
roots, which are very nutritious, with the taste of chestnuts. Here they
have the largest the Admiral had seen in any part of the world, for he
says that they have the same plant in Guinea. At this place they were as
thick as a man's leg. All the people were stout and lusty, not thin, like
the natives that had been seen before, and of a very pleasant manner,
without religious belief. The trees were so luxuriant that the leaves
left off being green, and were dark colored with verdure. It was a
wonderful thing to see those valleys, and rivers of sweet water, and the
cultivated fields, and land fit for cattle, though they have none, for
orchards, and for anything in the world that a man could seek for.
In the afternoon the king came on board the ship, where the Admiral
received him in due form, and caused him to be told that the ships
belonged to the Sovereigns of Castile, who were the greatest princes in
the world. But neither the Indians who were on board, who acted as
interpreters, nor the king, believed a word of it. They maintained that
the Spaniards came from Heaven, and that the Sovereigns of Castile must
be in Heaven, and not in this world. They placed Spanish food before the
king to eat, and he ate a mouthful, and gave the rest to his councillors
and tutor, and to the rest who came with him.
"Your Highnesses may believe that these lands are so good and fertile,
especially these of the island of Espanola, that there is no one who
would know how to describe them, and no one who could believe if he had
not seen them. And your Highnesses may believe that this island, and all
the others, are as much yours as Castile. Here there is only wanting a
settlement and the order to the people to do what is required. For I,
with the force I have under me, which is not large, could march over all
these islands without opposition. I have seen only three sailors land,
without wishing to do harm, and a multitude of Indians fled before them.
They have no arms, and are without warlike instincts; they all go naked,
and are so timid that a thousand would not stand before three of our men.
So that they are good to be ordered about, to work and sow, and do all
that may be necessary, and to build towns, and they should be taught to
go about clothed and to adopt our customs."
_Monday, 17th of December_
It blew very hard during the night from E.N.E., but there was not much
sea, as this part of the coast is enclosed and sheltered by the island
of Tortuga. The sailors were sent away to fish with nets. They had
much intercourse with the natives, who brought them certain arrows of
the Caniba or Canibales. They are made of reeds, pointed with sharp
bits of wood hardened by fire, and are very long. They pointed out two
men who wanted certain pieces of flesh on their bodies, giving to
understand that the Canibales had eaten them by mouthfuls. The Admiral
did not believe it. Some Christians were again sent to the village,
and, in exchange for glass beads, obtained some pieces of gold beaten
out into fine leaf. They saw one man, whom the Admiral supposed to be
Governor of that province, called by them Cacique,[183-1] with a piece
of gold leaf as large as a hand, and it appears that he wanted to
barter with it. He went into his house, and the other remained in the
open space outside. He cut the leaf into small pieces, and each time
he came out he brought a piece and exchanged it. When he had no more
left, he said by signs that he had sent for more, and that he would
bring it another day. The Admiral says that all these things, and the
manner of doing them, with their gentleness and the information they
gave, showed these people to be more lively and intelligent than any
that had hitherto been met with. In the afternoon a canoe arrived from
the island of Tortuga with a crew of forty men; and when they arrived
on the beach, all the people of the village sat down in sign of peace,
and nearly all the crew came on shore. The cacique rose by himself,
and, with words that appeared to be of a menacing character, made them
go back to the canoe and shove off. He took up stones from the beach
and threw them into the water, all having obediently gone back into
the canoe. He also took a stone and put it in the hands of my
Alguazil,[183-2] that he might throw it. He had been sent on shore
with the Secretary[184-1] to see if the canoe had brought anything of
value. The alguazil did not wish to throw the stone. That cacique
showed that he was well disposed to the Admiral. Presently the canoe
departed, and afterwards they said to the Admiral that there was more
gold in Tortuga than in Espanola, because it is nearer to Baneque. The
Admiral did not think that there were gold mines either in Espanola or
Tortuga, but that the gold was brought from Baneque in small
quantities, there being nothing to give in return. That land is so
rich that there is no necessity to work much to sustain life, nor to
clothe themselves, as they go naked. He believed that they were very
near the source, and that our Lord would point out where the gold has
its origin. He had information that from here to Baneque was four
days' journey, about 34 leagues, which might be traversed with a fair
wind in a single day.
_Tuesday, 18th of December_
The Admiral remained at the same anchorage, because there was no wind,
and also because the cacique had said that he had sent for gold. The
Admiral did not expect much from what might be brought, but he wanted to
understand better whence it came. Presently he ordered the ship and
caravel to be adorned with arms and dressed with flags, in honor of the
feast of Santa Maria de la O,[184-2] or commemoration of the
Annunciation, which was on that day, and many rounds were fired from the
lombards. The king of that island of Espanola had got up very early and
left his house, which is about five leagues away, reaching the village at
three in the morning. There were several men from the ship in the
village, who had been sent by the Admiral to see if any gold had arrived.
They said that the king came with two hundred men; that he was carried in
a litter by four men; and that he was a youth, as has already been said.
To-day, when the Admiral was dining under the poop, the king came on
board with all his people.
The Admiral says to the Sovereigns: "Without doubt, his state, and the
reverence with which he is treated by all his people, would appear good
to your Highnesses, though they all go naked. When he came on board, he
found that I was dining at a table under the poop, and, at a quick walk,
he came to sit down by me, and did not wish that I should give place by
coming to receive him or rising from the table, but that I should go on
with my dinner. I thought that he would like to eat of our viands, and
ordered them to be brought for him to eat. When he came under the poop,
he made signs with his hand that all the rest should remain outside, and
so they did, with the greatest possible promptitude and reverence. They
all sat on the deck, except the men of mature age, whom I believe to be
his councillors and tutor, who came and sat at his feet. Of the viands
which I put before him, he took of each as much as would serve to taste
it, sending the rest to his people, who all partook of the dishes. The
same thing in drinking: he just touched with his lips, giving the rest to
his followers. They were all of fine presence and very few words. What
they did say, so far as I could make out, was very clear and intelligent.
The two at his feet watched his mouth, speaking to him and for him, and
with much reverence. After dinner, an attendant brought a girdle, made
like those of Castile, but of different material, which he took and gave
to me, with pieces of worked gold, very thin. I believe they get very
little here, but they say that they are very near the place where it is
found, and where there is plenty. I saw that he was pleased with some
drapery I had over my bed, so I gave it him, with some very good amber
beads I wore on my neck, some colored shoes, and a bottle of
orange-flower water. He was marvellously well content, and both he and
his tutor and councillors were very sorry that they could not understand
me, nor I them. However, I knew that they said that, if I wanted
anything, the whole island was at my disposal. I sent for some beads of
mine, with which, as a charm, I had a gold excelente,[186-1] on which
your Highnesses were stamped. I showed it to him, and said as I had done
yesterday, that your Highnesses ruled the best part of the world, and
that there were no princes so great. I also showed him the royal
standards, and the others with a cross, of which he thought much. He said
to his councillors what great lords your Highnesses must be to have sent
me from so far, even from Heaven to this country, without fear. Many
other things passed between them which I did not understand, except that
it was easy to see that they held everything to be very wonderful."
When it got late, and the king wanted to go, the Admiral sent him on
shore in his boat very honorably, and saluted him with many guns. Having
landed, he got into his litter, and departed with his 200 men, his son
being carried behind on the shoulders of an Indian, a man highly
respected. All the sailors and people from the ships were given to eat,
and treated with much honor wherever they liked to stop. One sailor said
that he had stopped in the road and seen all the things given by the
Admiral. A man carried each one before the king, and these men appeared
to be among those who were most respected. His son came a good distance
behind the king, with a similar number of attendants, and the same with a
brother of the king, except that the brother went on foot, supported
under the arms by two honored attendants. This brother came to the ship
after the king, and the Admiral presented him with some of the things
used for barter. It was then that the Admiral learnt that a king was
called Cacique in their language. This day little gold was got by barter,
but the Admiral heard from an old man that there were many neighboring
islands, at a distance of a hundred leagues or more, as he understood, in
which much gold is found; and there is even one island that was all gold.
In the others there was so much that it was said they gather it with
sieves, and they fuse it and make bars, and work it in a thousand ways.
They explained the work by signs. This old man pointed out to the Admiral
the direction and position, and he determined to go there, saying that if
the old man had not been a principal councillor of the king he would
detain him, and make him go, too; or if he knew the language he would ask
him, and he believed, as the old man was friendly with him and the other
Christians, that he would go of his own accord. But as these people were
now subjects of the King of Castile, and it would not be right to injure
them, he decided upon leaving him. The Admiral set up a very large cross
in the centre of the square of that village, the Indians giving much
help; they made prayers and worshipped it, and, from the feeling they
show, the Admiral trusted in our Lord that all the people of those
islands would become Christians.
_Wednesday, 19th of December_
This night the Admiral got under way to leave the gulf formed between the
islands of Tortuga and Espanola, but at dawn of day a breeze sprang up
from the east, against which he was unable to get clear of the strait
between the two islands during the whole day. At night he was unable to
reach a port which was in sight.[187-1] He made out four points of land,
and a great bay with a river, and beyond he saw a large bay,[187-2] where
there was a village, with a valley behind it among high mountains covered
with trees, which appeared to be pines. Over the Two Brothers there is a
very high mountain-range running N.E. and S.W., and E.S.E. from the Cabo
de Torres is a small island to which the Admiral gave the name of Santo
Tomas, because to-morrow was his vigil. The whole circuit of this island
alternates with capes and excellent harbors, so far as could be judged
from the sea. Before coming to the island on the west side, there is a
cape which runs far into the sea, in part high, the rest low; and for
this reason the Admiral named it Cabo Alto y Bajo.[188-1] From the
road[188-2] of Torres East by South 60 miles, there is a mountain higher
than any that reaches the sea,[188-3] and from a distance it looks like
an island, owing to a depression on the land side. It was named Monte
Caribata, because that province was called Caribata. It is very
beautiful, and covered with green trees, without snow or clouds. The
weather was then, as regards the air and temperature, like March in
Castile, and as regards vegetation, like May. The nights lasted 14
hours.[188-4]
_Thursday, 20th of December_
At sunrise they entered a port between the island of Santo Tomas and the
Cabo de Carabata,[188-5] and anchored. This port is very beautiful, and
would hold all the ships in Christendom. The entrance appears impossible
from the sea to those who have never entered, owing to some reefs of
rocks which run from the mountainous cape almost to the island. They are
not placed in a row, but one here, another there, some towards the sea,
others near the land. It is therefore necessary to keep a good look-out
for the entrances, which are wide and with a depth of 7 fathoms, so that
they can be used without fear. Inside the reefs there is a depth of 12
fathoms. A ship can lie with a cable made fast, against any wind that
blows. At the entrance of this port there is a channel on the west side
of a sandy islet with 7 fathoms, and many trees on its shore. But there
are many sunken rocks in that direction, and a look-out should be kept up
until the port is reached. Afterwards there is no need to fear the
greatest storm in the world. From this port a very beautiful cultivated
valley is in sight, descending from the S.E., surrounded by such lofty
mountains that they appear to reach the sky, and covered with green
trees. Without doubt there are mountains here which are higher than the
island of Tenerife, in the Canaries, which is held to be the highest yet
known.[189-1] On this side of the island of Santo Tomas, at a distance of
a league, there is another islet, and beyond it another, forming
wonderful harbors; though a good look-out must be kept for sunken rocks.
The Admiral also saw villages, and smoke made by them.
_Friday, 21st of December_
To-day the Admiral went with the ship's boats to examine this port, which
he found to be such that it could not be equalled by any he had yet seen;
but, having praised the others so much, he knew not how to express
himself, fearing that he will be looked upon as one who goes beyond the
truth. He therefore contents himself with saying that he had old sailors
with him who say the same. All the praises he has bestowed on the other
ports are true, and that this is better than any of them is equally true.
He further says: "I have traversed the sea for 23 years,[189-2] without
leaving it for any time worth counting, and I saw all the east and the
west, going on the route of the north, which is England, and I have been
to Guinea, but in all those parts there will not be found the perfection
of harbors ...[189-3] always found ...[189-4] better than another, that
I, with good care, saw written; and I again affirm it was well written,
that this one is better than all others, and will hold all the ships of
the world, secured with the oldest cables."[190-1] From the entrance to
the end is a distance of five leagues.[190-2] The Admiral saw some very
well cultivated lands, although they are all so, and he sent two of the
boat's crew to the top of a hill to see if any village was near, for none
could be seen from the sea. At about ten o'clock that night, certain
Indians came in a canoe to see the Admiral and the Christians, and they
were given presents, with which they were much pleased. The two men
returned, and reported that they had seen a very large village at a short
distance from the sea.[190-3] The Admiral ordered the boat to row towards
the place where the village was until they came near the land, when he
saw two Indians, who came to the shore apparently in a state of fear. So
he ordered the boats to stop, and the Indians that were with the Admiral
were told to assure the two natives that no harm whatever was intended to
them. Then they came nearer the sea, and the Admiral nearer the land. As
soon as the natives had got rid of their fear, so many came that they
covered the ground, with women and children, giving a thousand thanks.
They ran hither and thither to bring us bread made of _niames_, which
they call _ajes_, which is very white and good, and water in calabashes,
and in earthen jars made like those of Spain, and everything else they
had and that they thought the Admiral could want, and all so willingly
and cheerfully that it was wonderful. "It cannot be said that, because
what they gave was worth little, therefore they gave liberally, because
those who had pieces of gold gave as freely as those who had a calabash
of water; and it is easy to know when a thing is given with a hearty
desire to give." These are the Admiral's words. "These people have no
spears nor any other arms, nor have any of the inhabitants of the whole
island, which I believe to be very large. They go naked as when their
mothers bore them, both men and women. In Juana and the other islands the
women wear a small clout of cotton in front, with which to cover their
private parts, as large as the flap of a man's breeches, especially after
they have passed the age of twelve years, but here neither old nor young
do so. Also, the men in the other islands jealously hide their women from
the Christians, but here they do not." The women have very beautiful
bodies, and they were the first to come and give thanks to Heaven, and to
bring what they had, especially things to eat, such as bread of _ajes_,
nuts,[191-1] and four or five kinds of fruits, some of which the Admiral
ordered to be preserved, to be taken to the Sovereigns. He says that the
women did not do less in other ports before they were hidden; and he
always gave orders that none of his people should annoy them; that
nothing should be taken against their wills, and that everything that was
taken should be paid for. Finally, he says that no one could believe that
there could be such good-hearted people, so free to give, anxious to let
the Christians have all they wanted, and, when visitors arrived, running
to bring everything to them.
Afterwards the Admiral sent six Christians to the village to see what it
was like, and the natives showed them all the honor they could devise,
and gave them all they had; for no doubt was any longer entertained that
the Admiral and all his people had come from Heaven; and the same was
believed by the Indians who were brought from the other islands, although
they had now been told what they ought to think. When the six Christians
had gone, some _canoas_ came with people to ask the Admiral to come to
their village when he left the place where he was. _Canoa_ is a boat in
which they navigate, some large and others small. Seeing that this
village of the chief was on the road, and that many people were waiting
there for him, the Admiral went there; but, before he could depart, an
enormous crowd came to the shore, men, women, and children, crying out
to him not to go, but to stay with them. The messengers from the other
chief, who had come to invite him, were waiting with their canoes, that
he might not go away, but come to see their chief, and so he did. On
arriving where the chief was waiting for him with many things to eat, he
ordered that all the people should sit down, and that the food should be
taken to the boats, where the Admiral was, on the sea-shore. When he saw
that the Admiral had received what he sent, all or most of the Indians
ran to the village, which was near, to bring more food, parrots, and
other things they had, with such frankness of heart that it was
marvellous. The Admiral gave them glass beads, brass trinkets, and bells:
not because they asked for anything in return, but because it seemed
right, and, above all, because he now looked upon them as future
Christians, and subjects of the Sovereigns, as much as the people of
Castile. He further says that they want nothing except to know the
language and be under governance; for all they may be told to do will be
done without any contradiction. The Admiral left this place to go to the
ships, and the people, men, women, and children, cried out to him not to
go, but remain with them. After the boats departed, several canoes full
of people followed after them to the ship, who were received with much
honor, and given to eat. There had also come before another chief from
the west, and many people even came swimming, the ship being over a good
half-league from the shore. I sent certain persons to the chief, who had
gone back, to ask him about these islands. He received them very well,
and took them to his village, to give them some large pieces of gold.
They arrived at a large river, which the Indians crossed by swimming. The
Christians were unable, so they turned back. In all this district there
are very high mountains which seem to reach the sky, so that the mountain
in the island of Tenerife appears as nothing in height and beauty, and
they are all green with trees. Between them there are very delicious
valleys, and at the end of this port, to the south, there is a valley so
large that the end of it is not visible, though no mountains intervene, so
that it seems to be 15 or 20 leagues long. A river flows through it, and
it is all inhabited and cultivated, and as green as Castile in May or
June; but the night contains 14 hours, the land being so far north. This
port is very good for all the winds that can blow, being enclosed and
deep, and the shores peopled by a good and gentle race without arms or
evil designs. Any ship may lie within it without fear that other ships
will enter at night to attack her, because, although the entrance is over
two leagues wide, it is protected by reefs of rocks which are barely
awash; and there is only a very narrow channel through the reef, which
looks as if it had been artificially made, leaving an open door by which
ships may enter. In the entrance there are 7 fathoms of depth up to the
shore of a small flat island, which has a beach fringed with trees. The
entrance is on the west side, and a ship can come without fear until she
is close to the rock. On the N.W. side there are three islands, and a
great river a league from the cape on one side of the port. It is the
best harbor in the world, and the Admiral gave it the name of Puerto de
la Mar de Santo Tomas, because to-day it was that Saint's day. The
Admiral called it a sea, owing to its size.
_Saturday, 22nd of December_
At dawn the Admiral made sail to shape a course in search of the
islands which the Indians had told him contained much gold, some of
them having more gold than earth. But the weather was not favorable,
so he anchored again, and sent away the boat to fish with a net. The
lord of that land,[193-1] who had a place near there, sent a large
canoe full of people, including one of his principal attendants, to
invite the Admiral to come with the ships to his land, where he would
give him all he wanted. The chief sent, by this servant, a girdle
which, instead of a purse,[194-1] had attached to it a mask with two
large ears made of beaten gold, the tongue, and the nose. These people
are very open-hearted, and whatever they are asked for they give most
willingly; while, when they themselves ask for anything, they do so as
if receiving a great favor. So says the Admiral. They brought the
canoe alongside the boat, and gave the girdle to a boy; then they came
on board with their mission. It took a good part of the day before
they could be understood. Not even the Indians who were on board
understood them well, because they have some differences of words for
the names of things. At last their invitation was understood by signs.
The Admiral determined to start to-morrow, although he did not usually
sail on a Sunday, owing to a devout feeling, and not on account of any
superstition whatever. But in the hope that these people would become
Christians through the willingness they show, and that they will be
subjects of the Sovereigns of Castile, and because he now holds them
to be so, and that they may serve with love, he wished and endeavored
to please them. Before leaving, to-day, the Admiral sent six men to a
large village three leagues to the westward, because the chief had
come the day before and said that he had some pieces of gold. When the
Christians arrived, the secretary of the Admiral, who was one of them,
took the chief by the hand. The Admiral had sent him, to prevent the
others from imposing upon the Indians. As the Indians are so simple,
and the Spaniards so avaricious and grasping, it does not suffice that
the Indians should give them all they want in exchange for a bead or a
bit of glass, but the Spaniards would take everything without any
return at all. The Admiral always prohibits this, although, with the
exception of gold, the things given by the Indians are of little
value. But the Admiral, seeing the simplicity of the Indians, and
that they will give a piece of gold in exchange for six beads, gave
the order that nothing should be received from them unless something
had been given in exchange. Thus the chief took the secretary by the
hand and led him to his house, followed by the whole village, which
was very large. He made his guests eat, and the Indians brought them
many cotton fabrics, and spun-cotton in skeins. In the afternoon the
chief gave them three very fat geese and some small pieces of gold. A
great number of people went back with them, carrying all the things
they had got by barter, and they also carried the Spaniards themselves
across streams and muddy places. The Admiral ordered some things to be
given to the chief, and both he and his people were very well
satisfied, truly believing that the Christians had come from Heaven,
so that they considered themselves fortunate in beholding them. On
this day more than 120 canoes came to the ships, all full of people,
and all bringing something, especially their bread and fish, and fresh
water in earthen jars. They also brought seeds of good kinds, and
there was a grain which they put into a porringer of water and drank
it. The Indians who were on board said that this was very wholesome.
_Sunday, 23rd of December_
The Admiral could not go with the ships to that land whither he had been
invited by the chief, because there was no wind. But he sent, with the
three messengers who were waiting for the boats, some people, including
the secretary. While they were gone, he sent two of the Indians he had on
board with him to the villages which were near the anchorage. They
returned to the ship with a chief, who brought the news that there was a
great quantity of gold in that island of Espanola, and that people from
other parts came to buy it. They said that here the Admiral would find as
much as he wanted. Others came, who confirmed the statement that there
was much gold in the island, and explained the way it was collected. The
Admiral understood all this with much difficulty; nevertheless, he
concluded that there was a very great quantity in those parts, and that,
if he could find the place whence it was got, there would be abundance;
and, if not, there would be nothing. He believed there must be a great
deal, because during the three days that he had been in that port, he had
got several pieces of gold, and he could not believe that it was brought
from another land. "Our Lord, who holds all things in his hands, look
upon me, and grant what shall be for his service." These are the
Admiral's words. He says that, according to his reckoning, a thousand
people had visited the ship, all of them bringing something. Before they
come alongside, at a distance of a crossbow-shot, they stand up in the
canoe with what they bring in their hands, crying out, "Take it! take
it!" He also reckoned that 500 came to the ship swimming, because they
had no canoes, the ship being near a league from the shore. Among the
visitors, five chiefs had come, sons of chiefs, with all their families
of wives and children, to see the Christians. The Admiral ordered
something to be given to all, because such gifts were all well employed.
"May our Lord favor me by his clemency, that I may find this gold, I mean
the mine of gold, which I hold to be here, many saying that they know
it." These are his words. The boats arrived at night, and said that there
was a grand road as far as they went, and they found many canoes, with
people who went to see the Admiral and the Christians, at the mountain of
Caribatan. They held it for certain that, if the Christmas festival was
kept in that port,[196-1] all the people of the island would come, which
they calculated to be larger than England.[196-2] All the people went
with them to the village,[196-3] which they said was the largest, and the
best laid out with streets, of any they had seen. The Admiral says it is
part of the Punta Santa,[196-4] almost three leagues S.E. The canoes go
very fast with paddles; so they went ahead to apprise the _Cacique_, as
they call the chief. Up to that time the Admiral had not been able to
understand whether Cacique meant king or governor. They also have another
name for a great man--_Nitayno_;[197-1] but it was not clear whether they
used it for lord, or governor, or judge. At last the cacique came to
them, and joined them in the square, which was clean-swept, as was all
the village. The population numbered over 2,000 men. This king did great
honor to the people from the ship, and every inhabitant brought them
something to eat and drink. Afterwards the king gave each of them cotton
cloths such as women wear, with parrots for the Admiral, and some pieces
of gold. The people also gave cloths and other things from their houses
to the sailors; and as for the trifles they got in return, they seemed to
look upon them as relics. When they wanted to return in the afternoon, he
asked them to stay until the next day, and all the people did the same.
When they saw that the Spaniards were determined to go, they accompanied
them most of the way, carrying the gifts of the cacique on their backs as
far as the boats, which had been left at the mouth of the river.
_Monday, 24th of December_
Before sunrise the Admiral got under way with the land-breeze. Among the
numerous Indians who had come to the ship yesterday, and had made signs
that there was gold in the island, naming the places whence it was
collected, the Admiral noticed one who seemed more fully informed, or who
spoke with more willingness, so he asked him to come with the Christians
and show them the position of the gold mines. This Indian has a companion
or relation with him, and among other places they mentioned where gold
was found, they named Cipango, which they called Civao.[197-2] Here they
said that there was a great quantity of gold, and that the cacique
carried banners of beaten gold. But they added that it was very far off
to the eastward.
Here the Admiral addresses the following words to the Sovereigns: "Your
Highnesses may believe that there is no better nor gentler people in the
world. Your Highnesses ought to rejoice that they will soon become
Christians, and that they will be taught the good customs of your
kingdom. A better race there cannot be, and both the people and the lands
are in such quantity that I know not how to write it. I have spoken in
the superlative degree of the country and people of Juana which they call
Cuba, but there is as much difference between them and this island and
people as between day and night. I believe that no one who should see
them could say less than I have said, and I repeat that the things and
the great villages of this island of Espanola, which they call Bohio, are
wonderful. All here have a loving manner and gentle speech, unlike the
others, who seem to be menacing when they speak. Both men and women are
of good stature, and not black. It is true that they all paint, some with
black, others with other colors, but most with red. I know that they are
tanned by the sun, but this does not affect them much. Their houses and
villages are pretty, each with a chief, who acts as their judge, and who
is obeyed by them. All these lords use few words, and have excellent
manners. Most of their orders are given by a sign with the hand, which is
understood with surprising quickness." All these are the words of the
Admiral.
He who would enter the sea of Santo Tome[198-1] ought to stand for a good
league across the mouth to a flat island in the middle, which was named
La Amiga,[198-2] pointing her head towards it. When the ship is within a
stone's-throw of it the course should be altered to make for the eastern
shore, leaving the west side, and this shore, and not the other, should
be kept on board, because a great reef runs out from the west, and even
beyond that there are three sunken rocks. This reef comes within a
lombard-shot of the Amiga island. Between them there are seven fathoms at
least, with a gravelly bottom. Within, a harbor will be found large
enough for all the ships in the world, which would be there without need
of cables. There is another reef with sunken rocks, on the east side of
the island of Amiga, which are extensive and run out to sea, reaching
within two leagues of the cape. But it appeared that between them there
was an entrance, within two lombard-shots of Amiga, on the west side of
Monte Caribatan, where there was a good and very large port.[199-1]
_Tuesday, 25th of December. Christmas_