CHAPTER XLIII

LATER GREENLAND EXPLORATIONS--MIKKELSEN, RASMUSSEN--KOCH

MIKKELSEN

The quest of any further information respecting the Erichsen expedition

was a worthy object, and it called forth the zealous enthusiasm of

Einar Mikkelsen, the gallant young explorer who had already served

in the expedition of Captain Amdrup, and had later won fame from his

fine effort in the Beaufort Sea. He received the warm encouragement of

his former chief Amdrup, of Captain Holm, and others; a Committee was

formed, a fund was raised, half contributed by the Danish Government,

and the _Alabama_ of Stavanger (only 40 tons) was bought, strengthened,

equipped, and supplied with 18 months’ provisions. Dogs were obtained

in Greenland. Mikkelsen had with him Lieut. Laub of the Danish Navy,

Lieut. Jorgensen of the Danish army, Iver Iversen, a naval engineer,

Olsen and Paulsen, mates, and the carpenter, Carl Unger.

The _Alabama_ sailed from Copenhagen on the 20th of June, 1909, and

after many difficulties and much danger from the ice arrived safely off

Shannon Island. An autumn journey was made to the place where Brönlund

died, which proved a most dangerous undertaking. It was indeed a race

for life against water, thin ice, and darkness. The body was found,

a grave was built over it, and memorials were deposited. The party

returned on December 18th, 1909, after an absence of 95 days, one of

the most remarkable autumn Arctic journeys on record.

During the first winter, in the hope of finding documents, Mikkelsen

resolved to undertake a journey to Danmark Sound by crossing the

glacial land, a novel and hazardous undertaking. He made direct for the

head of the fjord, and for part of the way was accompanied by Lieut.

Laub with another dog sledge. Mikkelsen had only one companion, the

engineer Iver Iversen, a good cook, an expert dog driver, and a man of

many accomplishments. The two sledges carried respectively 600 and 650

lb. of provisions and were drawn one by nine and the other by eleven

dogs.

[Illustration: Greenland]

On April 1st Mikkelsen and Laub found that they were by observation

no less than 15 miles south of their dead reckoning, much to their

surprise and dismay--only another proof of the uselessness of dead

reckoning unless checked by astronomical observations. It was intended

that Laub should travel round the west side of the large nunatak called

Dronning Luisa’s Land and then return round the south end. At the north

end of the land there was a little moss here and there, but no sign

of any living thing. Bad weather, excessively difficult marching, and

shortage of provisions obliged Laub and his two companions to return by

the way they came, and on reaching the winter quarters they found that

the _Alabama_ had filled and sunk, and their shipmates were in a tent.

Eventually, however, they were able to build a house with some of the

ship’s timbers.

Meanwhile Captain Mikkelsen and his companion Iversen continued their

march, making a very remarkable and difficult journey across the

inland ice direct to the head of the Danmark Fjord which, it will be

remembered, had been discovered by Erichsen. On May 18th they reached

the head of the fjord. Several remains of Erichsen’s party were found,

then a record, and ultimately a second record. Erichsen recorded this

discovery of the long fjord, at the head of which was Peary’s furthest

point, with two fjords branching from it. He had also found that

Peary’s strait across Greenland had no existence. This information was

important, as Mikkelsen had intended to return by the imaginary channel

and the west coast of Greenland, in which case he and his companion

would probably have perished. As it was, the return by the coast with

the dogs worn out, deep soft snow, and much surface water, was a

sufficiently dangerous undertaking. Mikkelsen was for some time unable

to walk, and the explorers went through great hardships.

At length, after terrible sufferings, the two men returned to the

winter quarters, only to find that their ship had sunk and that all

their companions had gone home in a vessel that arrived in the summer.

A house, needing much repair and full of snow, had been built out

of timber from the wreck, and there were provisions. In view of the

paucity of game, their companions considered that they would serve the

absent men best by returning when there was a chance, thus avoiding

the consumption of the remaining provisions. “They were all persuaded

that Captain Mikkelsen would succeed in fighting his way through, armed

as he was with iron energy and great Arctic knowledge, and with a

companion who would stick to him through thick and thin.”

At last a vessel arrived to rescue them, after three winters, and

the two heroic explorers were brought safely back to Copenhagen.

This expedition, with its aspirations accomplished and its valuable

results, stands high in the polar record. Mikkelsen’s reward was

the appreciation of his work by the scientific geographers of all

countries. His interesting narrative is contained in the _Story of the

Alabama Expedition, 1909–1912_.

RASMUSSEN

The expedition across Greenland led by Knud Rasmussen, a Dane born in

Greenland, is of very special interest because it inaugurates what is

intended to be a permanent system of exploring work, which at the same

time undertakes the protection of the Arctic Highlanders, that most

interesting tribe, quite uncontaminated by contact with civilisation

when first discovered by Sir John Ross in 1818 and visited by the

writer in 1850. Under modern conditions the protection of the Danish

Government is much needed by these well-intentioned but simple and

isolated people.

With this most laudable object Rasmussen in July 1910 formed a

settlement among these people in Wolstenholme Sound, which he called

“Thule.” In the following year, becoming anxious for the safety of

Mikkelsen and his companion, he organised an expedition to cross

Greenland with the hope of relieving them. This was the main object,

discovery being secondary.

Rasmussen’s expedition was a thoroughly efficient one. He was

accompanied by two Eskimos and by young Freuchen who had served with

Erichsen, a joyous comrade, a cartographer, and possessed of hardihood

and great endurance. With four sledges and 54 dogs they started from

the Clements Markham glacier, a little to the north of Whale Sound, on

the 19th of April, 1912. They soon found that tents were much better

than snow huts, and the walrus meat they took with them kept the dogs

in good condition. The highest part of Greenland on this meridian

was found to be 7300 feet. In descending into the Danmark Fjord of

Erichsen some dogs fell over precipices, but otherwise all were in good

condition. Their rate of travelling was fast, 17 journeys bringing them

to Danmark Fjord, 504 miles. Rasmussen travelled down Danmark Fjord for

72 miles, until he reached the sea, and then proceeded up another fjord

of great length, running nearly east and west. This was all Erichsen’s

ground. It was found that the coasts of the fjord were more frequented

by game and had more vegetation on the north than on the south side.

On June 17th the head of the long fjord was reached, some extensive

ice-free land was discovered, and a glacier leading to the inland ice.

Peary’s record was found by Freuchen, on a height quite at the end of

the fjord. His incomplete observations, as already stated, caused the

recording of a non-existent channel from the east to the west coast of

Greenland, and the publication of quite erroneous maps for many years.

At the end of the long fjord discovered by Erichsen, which he called

Independence Fjord, Rasmussen found a steep glacier, and on the north

side a valley full of flowers, which he named Valmuedalen, or the

valley of poppies. Here the party rested for a few days and shot

several musk oxen. The return was commenced on August 8th by ascending

the glacier with great difficulty. They still had 27 dogs; and Thule

was safely reached on September 15th, 1912. The return journey alone

covered 621 miles, the double journey 1200 miles--the finest ever

performed by dogs.

By this remarkable and well-conducted journey Rasmussen corrected the

errors on our maps and made important discoveries. It is his intention,

while guarding the interests and looking after the welfare of the

Arctic Highlanders from his station at Thule in Wolstenholme Sound, to

undertake further exploring expeditions.

In the same year Dr de Quervain, a Swiss, made a journey over the

inland ice of Greenland, much further south, from Jacobshavn in Disco

Bay, on a S.E. course to Angmagssalik on the east coast. His highest

point was 8200 feet.

KOCH

The latest journey across Greenland from the east to the west coast was

specially interesting because ponies were used instead of dogs. Captain

Koch, the accomplished companion of Mylius Erichsen, when he decided

upon undertaking a much more northern crossing, resolved to attempt the

difficult enterprise with ponies. Sixteen of these were landed, but

unfortunately there was a stampede and only ten ponies were recaptured.

The companions of Captain Koch were three Danes named Larsen, Wegener,

and Vigfus. The intention was to winter at the interesting Dronning

Luisa nunatak, but after two months of hard work it was found that the

complete ascent could not be made before winter set in, and it became

necessary to establish winter quarters on the icy ascent. To add to

their misfortune Captain Koch fell down a crevasse and broke his leg.

They had brought the materials for a house, which was duly erected,

and served its purpose well during the winter, though--72° Fahr. was

registered. Several ponies died and others were used for food.

By the spring Captain Koch had recovered from his very serious

accident and the march across Greenland, a distance of 700 miles

on this meridian, was commenced on April 20th with five ponies and

five sledges. Violent storms had to be faced and the ponies suffered

severely from exhaustion and snow blindness. No land was seen from May

6th until July 2nd. A height of nearly 9800 ft. was attained in 43° W.

and 74° 30′ N. On July 4th the margin of the ice on the west side was

reached, and the last remaining pony was killed. The descent was made,

and a fjord called Lax (salmon) Fjord was crossed on a raft constructed

of the sledge and poles. They were then weather-bound without food for

35 hours. The party was ultimately rescued by a sailing boat, which

took them to the Danish settlement of Proven.

The difficulties encountered, the dangers faced and overcome, the

sufferings bravely endured, the scientific work throwing light on the

climatic conditions and physiography of the Greenland interior, place

all these Danish enterprises very high in the glorious record of polar

discovery.

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