CHAPTER XXXV

WEYPRECHT’S PLAN FOR SYNCHRONOUS OBSERVATIONS.

THE GREELY EXPEDITION

On the 18th September, 1875, Lieutenant Weyprecht, the colleague of

Lieutenant Payer when Franz Josef Land was discovered, delivered an

address to a meeting of German savants at Gratz in which he urged that,

in the greed for discovery, scientific research was often neglected.

The object of Arctic expeditions, he said, should be a nobler one

than mapping and naming ice-bound coasts, or reaching a higher

latitude than a predecessor. The North Pole, he held, had no greater

significance for science than any other point in the higher latitudes.

His contention was that meteorological and magnetic observations, to be

really valuable to science, must be synchronous, and that they must be

taken at selected stations round the Arctic regions, the instruments

identical, the instructions identical, and the observations synchronous

for at least a year.

Lieutenant Weyprecht’s views received respectful attention, and were

adopted by an international polar conference at Hamburg in 1879 and by

another at St Petersburg in 1882. Proposals were then made to all the

countries likely to take part, and finally the following arrangements

were made to carry out Weyprecht’s scheme.

The United States agreed to station Lieutenant Ray at Point Barrow, and

Lieutenant Greely at Lady Franklin Bay, in Smith Sound. The Austrians

sent Captain Wohlgemuth to Jan Mayen Island, and the Germans Dr Giese

to Cumberland Inlet in Davis Strait. England arranged for observations

to be taken at Fort Rae on the Great Slave Lake, Russia established

stations at Novaya Zemlya and at the mouth of the Lena, and the Danes

sent Dr Paulsen to Godthaab in Greenland. The Swedes were represented

by Dr Ekholm at Ice Fjord in Spitsbergen, and the Norwegians observed

at the Alten Fjord. The Dutch intended to establish a station at Port

Dickson in Siberia, but unfortunately the vessel conveying the observer

and his instruments was wrecked. The synchronous observations were

commenced at these stations in the summer of 1882, and continued for a

year, in accordance with the previously arranged plan.

One of these expeditions, the only one which concerns our subject,

combined geographical discovery with the main object--that sent up

Smith Sound by the United States. It was composed entirely of officers

and men of the army, under the command of Lieutenant Greely of the

Signal Corps. Under him the officers were Lieutenants Kislingbury

and Lockwood, and Dr Pavy as surgeon and naturalist. There were five

sergeants belonging to the signal corps, three of infantry, and two of

cavalry, altogether ten sergeants, one corporal, nine privates, and two

Eskimo hunters. The steamer _Proteus_ was hired to land the party at

Lady Franklin Bay, the _Discovery’s_ winter quarters. This was effected

on August 18th, 1881, and as soon as the stores and provisions were

landed and the house erected, the _Proteus_ departed.

It was arranged that the _Proteus_ should return to bring the observers

home in the summer of 1882, but no other precaution was taken. It was

quite possible that a vessel might find it impracticable to reach

Lady Franklin Bay owing to ice conditions, or that she might founder,

as actually happened. The commander of the expedition ought to have

insisted upon a depôt being landed at Cape Sabine, or some other point

in Smith Sound, complete in all respects for 24 men for nine months;

such a depôt as Captain Kellett left at Melville Island. The neglect of

this precaution was disastrous.

The house at Lady Franklin Bay, which was named Conger, was

comfortable, and the various observations, meteorological, magnetic,

pendulum, and tidal were commenced. But unfortunately the personnel of

the expedition did not form a very united family. There was resistance

to the Commander’s instructions for winter routine. Lieutenant

Kislingbury resigned his appointment in the expedition and wished to

return, but was too late. He remained as a volunteer. The surgeon was

frequently insubordinate and was at last put under arrest, and later

there was trouble with one of the sergeants named Cross. Lieutenant

Lockwood was the life and soul of the expedition. He undertook short

journeys in the autumn, laying out depôts, and upwards of a hundred

musk oxen were seen, and many shot, so that fresh meat could be served

out three times a week. During the dark winter months Lieutenant

Lockwood edited a paper entitled _The Arctic Moon_, with illustrations

by himself.

An expedition along the north coast of Greenland had been decided upon,

and during March Lieutenant Lockwood undertook a preliminary journey

across the channel to Thank God Harbour, visiting Hall’s grave. A depôt

was also placed at Cape Sumner.

On the 2nd April Lockwood’s expedition started, consisting of the

dog-sledge _Antoinette_ with a team of eight dogs, and some supporting

sledges. At Cape Britannia on the north coast of Greenland, near

Beaumont’s furthest, all the supporting sledges were sent back, a depôt

was left, and on April 30th Lockwood proceeded with Sergeant Brainard

and the Eskimo Frederick. The sledge was loaded with 25 days’ rations

for three persons weighing 230 lb., 300 lb. of dog pemmican, constant

weights 176 lb., the sledge itself 80 lb., total 786 lb. As they

advanced the snow became soft, and a portion of the load was thrown

off, to be picked up on the return journey. The ice foot further on

was smooth and the dogs went at a trot, the men sitting on the sledge

by turns. On the 14th May they reached their furthest point, which was

called Lockwood Island. On the 15th observations were taken, the result

being Lat. 83° 24′ N., Long. 40° 46′ 30″ W. The return was without

incident, and Conger was reached June 1st. The dogs had done well and

enabled a good journey of two months to be made.

Lockwood’s coast-line extends for 110 miles of longitude, or altogether

150 miles. It consists of a succession of high, rocky, and precipitous

promontories, with intervening inlets, and a mass of snow-clad

mountains inland. Along the shore was what was called a tidal crack,

varying in width, supposed to be caused by the motion of the polar

pack. Lieutenant Greely rightly concluded from the regularity of the

surface in the fjords or inlets, that this was really the north coast

of Greenland, and not a separate land as later alleged by Peary.

Greely himself started on an expedition inland on June 26th, and this

journey, combined with a shorter one in the spring, resulted in the

discovery of an extensive lake, and enabled him to obtain a clear

idea of this part of the great island, his furthest point being 175

miles from Conger. A number of Eskimo bone implements and remains of

sledges, of considerable antiquity, were found and brought back. But

now began the first hint of the misfortunes that were to befall them.

The _Proteus_, the relief vessel which was to bring the expedition

home, was anxiously expected but never arrived, and a second winter had

therefore to be faced.

On April 25th, 1883, Lieutenant Lockwood started for a month’s

exploration westward. He succeeded in crossing the island to a fjord

on the west coast to which he gave the name of Greely, and down this

he and Sergeant Brainard travelled for 25 miles. To the south of the

fjord the country appeared to be covered by an immense ice-cap with an

unbroken series of cliffs from 125 to 200 feet in height.

It was decided to commence a retreat on the 18th August, with a steam

launch, a whale-boat, and two English ice-boats, carrying 50 days’

provisions, to take them to Cape Dobbin, where they expected to find a

ship. All the records of observations as well as the reports of sledge

journeys were placed in tin cases carefully soldered. They picked up

the English depôt at Cape Collinson (240 rations of meat and 120 of

bread) and reached Cape Hawke with 60 days’ provisions. On October 2nd

they landed at Wade Point with 35 days’ food for 25 men. All the boats,

except one ice-boat, had been abandoned. On the 9th Sergeant Rice

arrived at Cape Sabine and obtained news. The _Proteus_ had foundered

on the 23rd July, and her commander Lieutenant Garlington and crew had

escaped to the east coast. The English depôt was found. The members

of the expedition reached Cape Sabine and built a hut with the boat

for a roof. Greely was obliged, on November 1st, to reduce the daily

rations to the smallest amount that would support life--meat 4 oz.

and biscuit 6 oz., altogether a total of only 14¼ oz. There were some

instances of theft of rum and provisions, but not many. In January

Sergeant Cross died. Though some of the party were indefatigable in

searching for game they were not fortunate, the bag consisting only of

one small seal, one bear, twenty-four foxes, fourteen ptarmigan and

sixty dovekies. The last issue of rations was on May 24th, after which

the deaths from starvation began, though during May Sergeant Brainard

had managed to get 475 lb. of shrimps and 81 lb. of sea-weed. That

gallant and loyal soldier, James Lockwood, died on the 9th April, Dr

Pavy on the 16th, and Kislingbury on the 1st June. Greely was left

without an officer. All the non-commissioned officers, except Brainard,

fell victims of starvation, as well as six of the privates and the two

Eskimos. Private Henry had been detected stealing bacon, and afterwards

strips of leather. He was stronger than any of the others, and they

became frightened of him, so Lieutenant Greely ordered him to be shot.

This was done on June 6th, 1884. The six survivors, Greely, Brainard,

Connell, Long, Fredericks, and Biederlich, were reduced to the very

last extremity when on June 22nd a relief vessel arrived, commanded by

Captain Sedley, and saved them.

Greely was in a most difficult position during the expedition owing to

the insubordination of two out of three of his officers, which set a

bad example to the men. There were possibly faults on both sides, and

Greely may have been injudicious, but he conducted an exceptionally

arduous and difficult service with ability and consideration for

others, and to the very last did not fail in his duty to those

dependent upon him.

Lieutenant (now General) Greely succeeded in bringing back the most

valuable part of his work. It is published in two large quarto volumes

which are admirably edited (Washington, 1888). The work opens with

Greely’s lucid and thoroughly honest report, and contains the reports

and diaries of all the sledge travellers, and the meteorological,

tidal, and magnetic observations during the whole sojourn in Lady

Franklin Bay.

Lieutenant P. H. Ray carried out the Weyprecht scheme at Point Barrow

with diligence and ability. His results, contained in a large quarto

volume (Washington, 1885), in addition to the narrative, comprise

the meteorological, magnetic, and tidal observations, together with

ethnographical and linguistic studies of the natives of Point Barrow.

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