CHAPTER XIX

THE HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY. HEARNE AND MACKENZIE, COOK AND PHIPPS

We have seen how quickly a lucrative trade and remunerative returns

followed on the heels of Arctic discoveries. It was so in the

Spitsbergen seas, it was so in Greenland and Davis Strait, and now we

shall see that it was so in Hudson’s Bay. The Hudson’s Bay Company,

under the auspices of Prince Rupert, was founded in 1668, and an

expedition was sent out, consisting of the ship _Nonsuch_, under the

command of Captain Zachariah Gillam. That officer wintered with his

crew in Rupert’s river and established a station called Fort Charles.

A charter was granted by which the sole right to trade in Hudson’s

Bay and Strait was given to the Company, with territorial rights and

jurisdiction. Stations were formed and a trade in furs was established

with the Indians, who received European goods in exchange.

Discovery was not altogether neglected, although nothing was thought

of but trade during the first 50 years. In 1720 a sloop was sent on a

voyage of discovery under two officers named Knight and Barlow, but

they were never heard of more. A Captain Scroggs was sent in search,

but without result. Again in 1737 a sloop and shallop were despatched

by the Company, also without result.

In 1741 a Mr Arthur Dobbs became the chief projector of an expedition

to discover a north-west passage by Hudson’s Bay. The Admiralty gave

assistance, and Captain Christopher Middleton received the command

of an old bomb vessel called the _Furnace_, with a pink called the

_Discovery_, under Captain William Moore, as a consort. Arriving

late in the season of 1741, Captain Middleton resolved to winter in

the Churchill river, housing his men in an old fort. In February,

1742, scurvy broke out. The only efficacious treatment was not then

understood, and Captain Middleton’s panacea was plenty of rum with

sugar to make punch. There were some deaths in March but not enough

to hinder the expedition, and in July 1742 the voyage was resumed,

the plan being to explore the great opening called by Luke Foxe “Sir

Thomas Roe his Welcome,” and to seek a passage by that route. The cape

on the western side of the sound in 65° 10′ N. Middleton named Cape

Dobbs. Proceeding up the Welcome he discovered an opening which at

first seemed likely to lead to the desired passage, but it turned out

to be the estuary of a river which was named the Wager River, after Sir

Charles Wager, then First Lord of the Admiralty. A point of land was

named Cape Hope, because hopes of a passage were revived on rounding

it and further north another opening to the west was seen, but it

could not be explored owing to the ice and the state of the weather.

It received the name of Repulse Bay. Then Frozen Strait was discovered

at the head of the Welcome and, on climbing a high hill, Middleton

saw that the coast trended south-east to the Cape Comfort of Baffin,

thus proving the insularity of Southampton Island. The expedition then

shaped a course down Hudson Strait, arriving in the Thames in October

1742.

Middleton had done his work well, and had made some important

discoveries. But he was subjected to an unjustifiable attack[100]

from Mr Dobbs, the projector, who accused the explorer of stating

that the Wager River was only a river when he knew it to be a strait.

Dobbs had sufficient influence to enable him to raise funds for a

second expedition. Two vessels, the _Dobbs_ and the _California_,

were fitted out and despatched under the command of Captain Moore,

who fully confirmed Middleton’s report. Mr Ellis wrote the history of

this voyage, and pointed to Chesterfield Inlet as a possible passage.

Accordingly Captain Christopher was sent to settle the question in the

sloop _Churchill_ in 1761, and again with Captain Norton in 1762, when

the survey of Chesterfield Inlet was completed.

[Illustration: Hudson Bay.]

The next expedition of the servants of the Hudson’s Bay Company was by

land, and was conducted by Samuel Hearne, who had been a naval officer.

Through the Indians who traded with the Company’s factories rumours

were received of a tribe which possessed copper mines on a river which

emptied itself into a northern sea, and the Governor of Fort Prince

of Wales on the Churchill river resolved to despatch an expedition to

ascertain the truth of these rumours.

Hearne made two false starts. In the first journey he was robbed by

Indians, in the second, when some months on the way, he had to return

owing to an accident to his great Cotton’s quadrant. At last he set out

in December, 1770, under the guidance of a remarkable Indian chief,

named Matonabi, and without any European companion. This guide was the

son of a northern Indian by a slave woman. His father had died, and

the boy was adopted and brought up by the Governor of Fort Prince of

Wales, who employed him as a hunter. He was a fine man, of nearly six

feet, and possessed of many good moral qualities. He had been on an

embassy to a powerful tribe, establishing peace and trade, and had also

visited the Coppermine river. It was indeed owing to his report that

the expedition was undertaken. Matonabi’s influence was so great that

he was made Chief of the northern Indians, and caused great quantities

of furs to be brought to the Churchill factory.

The method of travelling was for each man to drag his own little

sledge. These one-man sledges were 8 to 9 feet long by 12 to 14 inches

wide, made of boards a quarter of an inch thick sewn together with

thongs of deer-skin, with wooden cross-bars on the upper side. The fore

part was turned up so as to form a semicircle, to prevent the sledge

from diving into soft snow. The trace was a strip of leather with a

loop across the shoulders. The snow-shoes were 4½ feet long by 13

inches broad.

The country crossed by Hearne and Matonabi, accompanied by a large

party of Indians with their wives and children, was fairly well

supplied with game. In May, 1771, a lake was reached where they began

to build canoes and were joined by more Indians, eager to rob and

massacre the Eskimos.

The women and children were left behind, and the party of Indians,

in company with Hearne and Matonabi, entered the Arctic regions, and

began the descent of the Coppermine River on July 14th, 1771. Then five

Eskimo tents came in sight on the left bank. The Indians put on their

war-paint, formed an ambuscade, and approached stealthily. The wretched

Eskimos were completely taken by surprise, and Hearne was an unwilling

witness of a horrible massacre. One young girl clung to Hearne’s legs,

writhing in agony while the Indians drove their spears into her.

Hearne continued his voyage down the Coppermine River with his

bloodthirsty companions, until he reached the mouth on July 18th,

1771. He found that it was full of islets and shoals, with many seals

on the ice outside. For 30 miles there had been nothing but barren

hills and marshes. Above that distance there were stunted pines and

dwarf willows on the river banks. In returning, he visited one of the

surface copper mines. He gives an interesting account of the musk oxen,

deer, wild geese, salmon, and other sources of food-supply, and of the

building habits of beavers, and describes the Eskimo weapons and mode

of life.

[Illustration: Alexander Mackenzie]

On June 29th, 1772, Hearne returned to Fort Prince of Wales, and was

soon afterwards rewarded by being made Governor. But in 1782 a French

Expedition under La Pérouse destroyed the fort, carrying off Hearne and

the other Company’s servants as prisoners. Hearne was several years a

prisoner of war, and only returned to London to die. This disaster so

affected the faithful Matonabi that he committed suicide.

It was 18 years after Hearne’s discovery of the mouth of the Coppermine

that a young man named Alexander Mackenzie undertook to trace the

course of another river, flowing north from the Great Slave Lake. This

explorer was not one of the Hudson’s Bay Company’s servants, but at an

early period of life he had been led, with commercial views, to the

vast region north-west of Lake Superior. His voyage down the river

which received his name was undertaken in six canoes, chiefly manned

by French Canadians. Starting in June, 1789, he reached the numerous

channels which form the estuary of the Mackenzie river on July 13th,

and thus was the second European to reach the American polar ocean. The

river journey was over 1000 miles in length. Mackenzie was knighted in

recognition of the value of his discovery.

It was in a year between the dates of the two river mouth discoveries

that Captain Cook, during his third voyage, made his researches in

the Arctic Sea between the two continents of Asia and America. The

_Resolution_ under the command of the great navigator himself, and the

_Discovery_ under Captain Clerke, were commissioned in 1776, but it

was not until August, 1778, that they crossed the Arctic Circle. The

first Lieutenant of the _Discovery_ was James Burney, so well known to

geographers as the historian of voyages in the Pacific, and the writer

of an interesting account of Cook’s Arctic discoveries.

The Sandwich Islands had been discovered on January 18th, 1778, and on

August 4th the _Resolution_ and _Discovery_ anchored off Sledge Island

in 64° 30′ N. The westernmost extremity of the American continent

in Bering Strait, 65° 45′ N., received the name of Prince of Wales

Cape. Captain Cook then stood over to the Asiatic side, and landed to

investigate the Tchuktches, of which tribe he gives an interesting

account. Continuing his exploring work he crossed Bering Strait, and

proceeded along the American coast, naming a cape after another Arctic

explorer, Lord Mulgrave. On the 18th August the two ships were close to

the edge of a very heavy pack which was drifting towards the coast. The

furthest point seen was very low and much encumbered with ice. Captain

Cook gave it the name of Icy Cape, in lat. 70° 29′ N., long. 161° 42′

W. This was the furthest point reached on the American side.

Captain Cook found himself in a narrow lane in shoal water with the

ice coming down upon the ships. He plied to the westward, making short

boards between the ice and the shore. On the 19th the ships were

among loose pieces, and were brought to at the edge of a close pack.

There were immense herds of walrus on the ice, which afforded them a

welcome change of diet from the salt beef. Much attention was given to

soundings and to the force and direction of the currents. The sea in

Bering Strait is shallow, and the strait exercises no influence on the

general direction of the movement of the water. The principal current

in the strait is tidal and intermittent, flowing north with the flood

and south with the ebb.

From the 21st to the 29th of August the exploring ships were sailing

along the coast of Asia, which was low, with elevated land behind.

The furthest point was in lat. 65° 56′ N., long. 179° 11′ W., and

received the name of Cape North. The thick weather made it prudent

to return. The greatest depth north of Bering Strait was 30 fathoms,

the current slight. Passing through Bering Strait on a southerly

course, the distance across between Tchuktchi-nos and Prince of Wales

Cape was found to be 13 leagues. The ships arrived at a large bay on

the American side, which received the name of Norton Sound, after

the Speaker of the House of Commons (Lord Grantley). Here spruce was

collected to make spruce beer, and the men were sent on shore to

collect berries, for Captain Cook was ever thoughtful for the health of

his people. A corporal of Marines, John Ledyard, volunteered to go in

search of settlers in one of the frail _baidor_, a light wooden-frame

boat covered with whale skin, and he brought back two Russians whose

information was very useful to Captain Cook[101].

Captain Cook’s expedition returned to the Sandwich Islands, where the

great navigator was murdered. There was to have been a second voyage

to the Arctic regions in the next navigable season. Captain Clerke

succeeded to the command, but he was in a dying state. In April,

1779, the _Resolution_ and _Discovery_ arrived at Petropaulovsky in

Kamschatka, where they were most hospitably received by the Russian

Governor, and in July the ships again passed through Bering Strait, and

were among the ice in lat. 69° 20′ N. But on the 27th further attempts

were relinquished and it was decided to return to England. Captain

Clerke died on the 23rd of August.

The Arctic discoveries of Captain Cook extend on the Asiatic side to

Cape North, and on the American side to Icy Cape. For nearly 50 years

the knowledge of the polar sea north of America was bounded by Cook’s

Icy Cape, with the mouths of the two rivers Coppermine and Mackenzie.

A gun brig had been fitted out to meet Captain Cook in Baffin’s Bay,

the _Lion_, commanded by Lieutenant Pickersgill, who had served in

Cook’s second voyage. But he never got north of 68° 14′, though he

fixed several positions in Davis Strait. He left the Scilly Islands

June 20th, 1776, with instructions to protect the whalers from any

attacks from colonial rebels, as well as to meet Captain Cook’s

expedition[102]. In the following year the _Lion_ was sent north again,

under Lieutenant Young, but did still less.

Our Government then had a far clearer perception of their duties as

regards discovery than is the case now. By Acts George II cap. 17

(1745) and George III cap. 6 (1776) £5000 were offered for reaching 89°

N. and £20,000 for making the North-West Passage. In 1818 a further

attempt to stimulate discovery was made by offering proportionate

rewards for reaching high latitudes from 83° to 89°. But it was due

to the persistent representations of a private geographer that the

Government itself was induced to take action.

The Hon. Daines Barrington--brother of the excellent Dr Shute

Barrington, Bishop of Durham, and friend of Gilbert White of

Selborne--was born in 1727, and after leaving Oxford became a

barrister, and eventually a Bencher of the Inner Temple and Recorder

of Bristol. He was a Fellow of the Royal Society and of the Society of

Antiquaries, and the author of a translation of King Alfred’s work on

Orosius. He was deeply interested in northern voyages, and collected

many accounts of ships reaching high latitudes from English and Dutch

whaling captains. He published the information he had collected in

his _Possibility of approaching the North Pole asserted_[103], and at

the same time made strong representations to the Royal Society on the

scientific importance of a northern voyage. At last he induced that

body to make an appeal to the Government, and Lord Sandwich, then First

Lord of the Admiralty, resolved that an expedition should be fitted out

and despatched.

Two ship-rigged bomb vessels, the _Racehorse_ and _Carcass_, were

selected and specially strengthened. Captain Constantine John

Phipps, the eldest son of Lord Mulgrave, a scientific officer and

a good seaman, received the command of the expedition on board the

_Racehorse_, and Captain Lutwidge was appointed to the _Carcass_. The

Board of Longitude appointed Mr Israel Lyons as astronomer. Great pains

were taken with the outfit, but the ships were not intended to winter.

The surgeon, Dr Irving, had invented an apparatus for distilling fresh

from salt water, which was very simple, but answered its purpose

admirably. Lord Sandwich visited the ships on the 22nd April, and on

June 4th, 1773, the expedition left the Nore.

Phipps’s expedition was well conducted throughout. A latitude of 80°

50′ N. was reached, and the edge of the ice was examined along all the

meridians north of Spitsbergen, without a sign of any opening. Near

the Seven Islands the ships were closely beset, the ice piling up to a

great height, and there seemed little hope of extricating them without

a strong north-east wind. A party was sent to an island about 12 miles

off, under a midshipman, named Walden, to see if any open water was

in sight from its summit. He reported that there was water to the

westward. The island received the name of Walden. Boats were also sent

to see if a passage could be found into open water. One of the boats of

the _Racehorse_ was attacked by a herd of walrus, and was in danger of

being swamped when she was rescued by one of the boats of the _Carcass_

under the command of Horatio Nelson, a young midshipman not quite 15

years old.

The same young midshipman was keeping the middle watch on board the

_Carcass_, when a bear came in sight, and he started off after it with

a musket and one companion. A fog came down over the ice, and when it

rose young Nelson and his friend were seen at a considerable distance,

attacking the bear. A gun was fired which frightened their intended

quarry, and the boys returned. Nelson’s excuse to his Captain was that

he wanted the bear’s skin for his father.

The danger to the ships appeared to be so imminent that preparations

were made to abandon them, and all the boats were got ready. At the

same time all sail was made, and taking advantage of every slight

opening, the ships at length reached open water. They passed Hakluyt

Headland, and came to anchor in Smeerenburg Harbour in company with

some Dutch whalers. Very heavy weather was encountered during the

voyage home, but the ships reached the Thames safely and were paid off

in October, 1773.

This was an ably conducted expedition, and should have shown the folly

of attempting to approach the pole by trying to make headway against

ice drifting south, without the refuge of a land-floe. But it did

not. Captain Phipps published an interesting narrative of the voyage,

prefaced by a review of former attempts, with some valuable scientific

appendixes. He succeeded to the barony of Mulgrave on his father’s

death in the following year, and marrying into an old naval Yorkshire

family, Cholmley of Howsham, left an only daughter when he died in

1792. Captain Phipps was among the ablest of our scientific Arctic

explorers[104].

One important interest connected with the expedition of Captain Phipps

is the presence of Nelson as a midshipman on board the _Carcass_.

The future hero thus gained his first naval experience in the Arctic

regions, as other naval heroes of lesser fame have done before and

since his time. Nelson’s continued friendship for, and correspondence

with, his old captain show that his Arctic work was not forgotten

in after life. It is this phase of exploration that has the highest

importance. Great as are the commercial advantages obtained from Arctic

discovery, and still greater as are its scientific results, the most

important of all are its uses as a nursery for our seamen, as a school

for our future Nelsons, and as affording the best opportunities for

distinction to young naval officers in time of peace.

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