CHAPTER VIII

FIRST ENGLISH VOYAGES TO THE NORTH-EAST. WILLOUGHBY. CHANCELLOR.

BURROUGH. PET

Many reasons led English seamen to turn northward. East and west were

occupied by Portugal and by Spain, and our own adventurers, rather

later in the field, sought the discovery of routes to Cathay and the

Spice Islands by northern ways. Our seamen had long traded with Norway

and Iceland. The more northern voyages received hearty encouragement

from our Plantagenet kings, who granted charters in 1404, 1432, and

1463 for trade with the Scandinavian nations. Richard III specially

favoured the Iceland voyages. William of Worcester, in his chronicle,

tells us of the enterprises of William Canynge of Bristol, who sent

his ships not only to the Mediterranean and the Baltic, but so far as

Iceland, where one of his vessels of 160 tons was lost. Ships also went

northward from Lynn and other ports, and before long the commercial

ventures led to voyages of discovery. It must always be remembered that

the notices of voyages to be met with in the 15th century chronicles,

few and far between, represented but a small fraction of English

maritime activity and of the voyages actually undertaken. England was

preparing silently, but actively and strenuously, for her supremacy of

the sea, and for her great work in the Arctic regions.

Land was reported beyond the ocean to the westward of Bristol, and

as early as July 1480 we are told by William of Worcester that a

seaman named Thylde--the most scientific seaman, it is added, in all

England--led an expedition in search of the unknown land, and was

absent for 64 days. Others followed in his wake. At last the crew of

the Bristol ship _Matthew_ did actually discover Newfoundland, or

rather re-discover it, for it was the Vinland of the Norsemen. This

was in 1496, and in the following years there were other voyages from

Bristol to the new land. Nine years afterwards the Company of Merchant

Adventurers received their charter, and English Arctic enterprise was

not very long in starting under the auspices of that famous Company.

Mr Robert Thorne, a merchant of London who long resided at Seville,

and whose father had been an adventurer to the new land, was one of

those who urged the importance of northern exploration. In a letter

to the English Ambassador at Madrid, and in another to Henry VIII, he

counselled the discovery of routes to China and the Spice Islands by

the north. He pointed out that from the situation of this realm of

England it was nearest and aptest of all others for the prosecution

of such a discovery, which would win perpetual glory for the King and

infinite profit for his subjects. After reaching the Pole, he said, the

discoverers can decline to which part they list.

Such words were as seed falling on fertile soil. Arctic enterprise

needed stimulus, however, and received it from two young princes of

great promise, both alas! cut off in their prime--Edward VI and Prince

Henry of Wales. King Edward took a warm and personal interest in the

maritime prosperity of his country, and in the science of navigation.

His friend and companion, Henry Sidney[28], was imbued with the same

feeling. Under their auspices the first Arctic expedition was organised

and despatched by the Company of Merchant Adventurers to undertake a

voyage to Cathay by the north-east. The whole subject was considered

with the greatest care as regards the management and discipline, the

ships, the merchandise to be taken, and the provisions.

The most important matter of all was the selection of good commanders.

Sir Hugh Willoughby, a most valiant gentleman and well born, very

earnestly requested that he might be chosen to command the expedition.

Sir Hugh was a younger son of Sir Henry Willoughby, Knight Banneret

of Wollaton, who died in 1528, and whose altar tomb is in Wollaton

church[29]. Sir Henry left three sons John, Edward, and Hugh, and

Edward’s grandson was the builder of the present fine old mansion

at Wollaton, near Nottingham. Hugh was connected, by his father’s

marriages, with two names afterwards known in Arctic history, Markham

and Egerton. He himself married Joan, daughter of Sir Nicholas Strelly,

a Nottinghamshire neighbour. His portrait, now at Wollaton, of which

there is a replica in the Painted Hall at Greenwich, is that of a tall

and handsome man. He was to be Captain-General of the expedition on

board a ship of 120 tons called the _Bona Esperanza_, with a crew of

36 officers and men[30]; the second ship was the _Edward Bonaventure_

of 160 tons, with a crew of 51 officers and men; and the third was the

_Bona Confidentia_ of 90 tons, with 28 officers and men. Sir Hugh had a

relation with him, named Gabriel Willoughby, among the merchants.

As second in command, Richard Chancellor was selected from among many

applicants, on the recommendation of King Edward’s friend, Sir Henry

Sidney, who made a speech to the Merchant Adventurers, commending

an enterprise which, he said, would prove profitable and honourable

to our country. Chancellor had been in the service of Sidney, who

reminded the merchants that while they found the means but remained

at home, Chancellor hazarded his life amongst the perils of the sea.

He concluded by saying, “If it fall so happily out that he return

again, it is your part and duty liberally to reward him.” Chancellor

was in the _Edward Bonaventure_ as chief pilot of the fleet, and

he had with him Stephen Borough as master of the ship, his brother

William Borough, and Arthur Pet, all destined later to become famous as

Arctic navigators. The master of the _Bona Confidentia_ was Cornelius

Durforth, whose young son sailed with him as a seaman. King Edward VI

addressed a “letter missive,” in several languages, to the potentates

inhabiting the north-east parts of the world toward the mighty empire

of Cathay, commending the right valiant and worthy Sir Hugh Willoughby

to their good offices.

The three ships left Ratcliffe on May 10th, 1553, and started with

the ebb. They were towed by their boats, the sailors being dressed in

sky-coloured cloth, and passing Greenwich there was a great crowd on

the shore, and the courtiers stood at the windows of the palace, the

ships saluting. But, alas! the young King who had taken great interest

in the expedition, receiving news of it from his friend Henry Sidney,

was on his deathbed. There was a detention at Harwich owing to some of

the provisions being bad, but on the 23rd of June the little squadron

stood out to sea from Orfordness.

It was not until the 14th of July that Halgoland was sighted, the

home of Ohthere, the first Arctic navigator. They visited Udröst, on

the Arctic Circle and had friendly intercourse with the people of the

Lofoten Islands. They also touched at Senjen, but off the coast of

Finmarken, Chancellor, in the _Edward Bonaventure_, parted company

in a gale of wind. Sir Hugh Willoughby, with his own ship and the

_Bona Confidentia_, searched for the port of Vardö, which he called

“Wardhouse,” the rendezvous. But strong breezes obliged him to shape

a course to the eastward, and on the 14th of August he came in sight

of land in 72° N. He hoisted out the boat, but could not reach the

coast owing to the water being shoal. Sir Hugh had discovered Novaya

Zemlya, at the part now called the “Goose Coast,” It was known to the

adventurers of those days as “Willoughby’s Land,” but was shown on some

maps as a separate island[31]. Sir Hugh continued to work up along the

coast for three days, but the _Bona Confidentia_ was leaking badly,

and it was decided to seek a harbour in Finmarken in order to repair

her. After beating about for some days Sir Hugh finally brought the

two vessels into a haven at the mouth of the river Arzina, near Kegor

on the coast of Lapland. Here he determined to winter, as animals were

seen both on land and sea, but no human dwellers could be found.

The gallant explorer and all his companions perished before the

spring’s arrival, though some survived into January. The ship was found

by some Russian fishermen, and Mr Killingworth, the Company’s agent in

Russia, sent a ship to bring the property home. Sir Hugh Willoughby’s

journal and his will, with other papers, were recovered. Milton, in

his history of Muscovia, says that the ship was also despatched on

her return, “but being unstaunch as is supposed, she sunk by the way

with her dead, and them also that brought them.” Milton was, however,

mistaken. The ships returned safely to England under the command of

John Buckland, with the body of Sir Hugh Willoughby and his effects.

Like La Perouse and Franklin, Sir Hugh Willoughby, England’s first

Arctic explorer, perished in the midst of his discoveries--a glorious

close to his honourable career.

Chancellor, in the _Edward Bonaventure_, after parting from the other

two vessels, proceeded to Vardö, where he waited for seven days. He

then continued the voyage, entered the White Sea, and obtained supplies

and information from the Russians at Kholmogori, afterwards called

Archangel. He was told that the country was ruled by a king named

Ivan Vasilivitch, and eventually it was arranged that he should make

a journey to Moscow, where he was well received, travelling back to

his ship, and making the return voyage to England. He had discovered

Russia, and an important trade between the two countries was begun. It

would be difficult to over-estimate the commercial importance of our

first Arctic expedition.

The Muscovy Company received a charter of incorporation in February

1555, and in June Richard Chancellor was sent on a second voyage with

two ships, the _Edward Bonaventure_ and the _Philip and Mary_. George

Killingworth accompanied him as the Company’s agent. Chancellor again

visited Moscow, and rejoined the _Edward Bonaventure_ at Kholmogori

with a Russian Ambassador, in July 1556. In November she arrived off

Pitsligo, near Aberdeen, where she was driven on the rocks during a

heavy gale. Chancellor perished in an attempt to reach the shore in

a boat, but the Russian Ambassador was safely landed, and honourably

received in London. The narrative of Chancellor’s first voyage was

written in Latin by Edward Adam, the learned young schoolmaster to King

Edward’s pages, who received his information from Chancellor himself.

It is given in English by Hakluyt.

The first Arctic expedition thus opened the trade to Russia, a great

service, the first of many which Polar exploration has done to this

country. But we must leave the Company’s agents actively engaged in

the establishment of that trade to follow the course of discovery.

Of the crew of Chancellor’s ship, we hear again of at least six.

The two merchants John Hasse and Richard Johnson were useful agents

whose reports are given by Hakluyt. John Buckland, the master’s mate,

commanded the ship which went to recover the journal and effects of his

chief, Sir Hugh Willoughby. Stephen and William Burrough and Arthur

Pet continued the work of discovery, and the two former became very

distinguished naval officers.

Stephen Burrough is the third name on our Arctic roll of honour,

following Willoughby and Chancellor. He was born at Borough in the

parish of Northam near Bideford in Devonshire, in 1525, and was Master

of the _Edward Bonaventure_ under Chancellor at the age of 28. His

brother William was eleven years younger, and served as a sailor boy

under Stephen. In 1556 a pinnace called the _Searchthrift_ was fitted

out by the Muscovy Company for discovery, and Stephen Burrough was

entrusted with the command. His brother William went with him. On the

27th of April the _Searchthrift_ was at Gravesend, and was visited by

the managers of the Company and several ladies, who after a collation

on board, distributed liberal presents to the men, and gave a banquet

followed by dancing at the Christopher Inn. On the 29th they left

Gravesend, and by the end of May the _Searchthrift_ was off the

well-known headland to which Burrough gave the name North Cape.

Thence the explorers sailed along the Murman coast, as the Russians

call the northern shore of the Kola Peninsula. It consists of high and

precipitous granite cliffs with some harbours towards the western end.

At the river Kola the English voyagers met with a number of Russian

boats called _lodias_, chiefly belonging to Kholmogori (Archangel),

with 20 oars and a crew of 24 men each. They were engaged in walrus

and salmon fishing. The Russian captains were extremely friendly,

presenting Burrough with loaves of bread, oatmeal, and fish, and

piloting him along the coast. Crossing the entrance to the White

Sea, Burrough sighted Kolguev Island, the mouth of the Petchora, and

Kaninnoss, learning the names from his Russian friends. By the middle

of July the _Searchthrift_ sighted land right ahead, with distant

mountains to the north. This, he learnt, was called Waigatz, and the

northern land Novaya Zemlya. Part of its western coast, further to

the north, had, as we have seen, already been discovered by Sir Hugh

Willoughby.

Stephen Burrough discovered the strait, 25 miles wide, between Waigatz

and Novaya Zemlya, which rightfully bears his name. The limit of

knowledge was then the mouth of the Obi, but Burrough, pestered by

ice, fogs, and gales of wind, was unable to penetrate into the Kara

Sea. He landed on Waigatz, an island 70 miles long by 20 to 25 broad,

consisting of a limestone ridge on the east side, and a lower shaley

ridge to the west, with a swampy plain covered with small lakes

between. The climate is extremely severe in the winter, but in the

short summer the ground is covered with wild flowers. There are acres

of flowering plants a foot high, including a delicate pink-blossomed

crucifer, a yellow poppy, and a sort of lousewort (_Melampyrum

sylvaticum_) of many colours, from glorious yellows to rich pinks.

Buttercups carpet wide areas, and one water-loving species floats on

the meres and tarns like a miniature water-lily, filling the air with

its fragrance. There are stunted willows a foot high but no other

wood-forming plant. Birds are numerous, and the peregrine falcon and

the rough-legged buzzard nest on the cliffs of the island.

The approach of winter obliged our explorers to give up their attempt

for that year, and on the 11th September Burrough brought the

_Searchthrift_ to Kholmogori, intending to renew his efforts in the

following year. But the orders of the Company were that he should shape

a homeward course, and in the autumn of 1557 he returned to the Thames.

Both the brothers, Stephen and William, became distinguished officers,

showing what an admirable training Arctic service is for the navy, both

in its executive and scientific branches. Stephen Burrough induced

Richard Eden to translate the _Arte de Navegar_ of Martin Cortes,

then the best book on navigation, thus securing the means whereby our

seamen could obtain instruction. In 1563 he became Chief Pilot in the

Medway, with the duty of instructing and examining officers in the art

of navigation. He died in July, 1584, and was buried at Chatham. His

brother William continued to serve the Muscovy Company in voyages to

the White Sea, and in 1570 he commanded a fleet bound to Narva in the

Baltic. Both brothers were very attentive in observing the variation of

the compass during the voyage to Waigatz, and in 1581 William Burrough

published his _Discourse of the Variation of the Needle_. He became

Comptroller of the Navy in 1583, and commanded the fleet which conveyed

the Earl of Leicester from Harwich to Flushing in 1585. He constructed

charts and prepared sailing directions, besides serving with Drake at

Cadiz, and under Lord Howard against the Spanish Armada. His chart of

the mouth of the Thames was the best until the first trigonometrical

survey was made by Murdoch Mackenzie in 1790[32]. He died in 1599. For

such valuable services as these, the Arctic expeditions which trained

the Burroughs to observe and to act promptly and judiciously are

doubtless not a little to be thanked.

For more than 20 years after the return of the _Searchthrift_ the

northern voyages were devoted to the promotion of Russian trade and

not to discovery, but in 1580 Sir George Barne, a prominent citizen of

London, with his colleague, Sir Rowland Hayward, resolved to fit out

a small expedition with the object of continuing the discoveries made

by Stephen Burrough. They equipped two small vessels, the _George_ of

London, 40 tons, and the _William_ of London, 20 tons. Arthur Pet of

Ratcliffe, who had been a seaman in the _Edward Bonaventure_, received

command of the _George_ with a crew of nine men and a boy, including

Hugh Smith, an intelligent person who wrote an account of the voyage.

The _William_ was entrusted to Charles Jackman of Poplar, with a crew

of five men and a boy. Nicholas Chancellor, perhaps one of the two sons

of Richard, who caused him so much anxiety when he sailed into the

unknown with Sir Hugh Willoughby, sailed with Pet as merchant. They

were supplied with letters from the Queen. Sailing directions were

drawn up by William Burrough, with instructions for observing; a paper

of advice was written for them by Dr Dee, and a note on the commercial

aspects of the enterprise by Richard Hakluyt. Under these excellent

auspices the two tiny little vessels set out on the voyage to Cathay by

the north-east.

Leaving Harwich on the 30th May, 1580, the two boats rounded the North

Cape, and arrived at Vardö on the 23rd June. When they put to sea

again the _William_ was obliged to stop at Kegor for repairs, while

the _George_ continued her easterly course until she came in sight of

the coast of Novaya Zemlya. Here she was beset in the ice, and, having

been extricated with some difficulty, she reached the Bay of Petchora,

and sighted Waigatz on the 18th July. Six days afterwards the _William_

joined company again; but her stern post was broken, her rudder was

hanging loose, and she would not steer. The combined crews set to

work to remedy the damage by passing hawsers round the stern of the

_William_ and hauling them taut at a capstan, and they were again able

to steer her.

Captain Pet discovered the strait between Waigatz and the mainland,

and the two boats passed through it and made several attempts to bore

through the ice, sometimes entering the pack, and occasionally making

slight progress by sailing along lanes of water left between the

grounded ice and the shore. In August, when they found it impossible

to penetrate the ice, they gave up the attempt. Passing the shoals of

Kolguev Island, the _William_ again parted company in a fog on the

22nd August. Captain Pet brought the little _George_ safely back into

the Thames on the 25th of September. Jackman was less fortunate. The

_William_ wintered in the Trondhjem fjord, sailed in company with a

Danish vessel bound for Iceland in the spring, but was never heard of

more. The fearless audacity of these gallant seamen in attempting

to achieve the north-east passage in such frail vessels is worthy of

admiration, for they were well aware of the dangers and obstacles.

The moral effect of our earliest Arctic voyages was far-reaching

and enduring. They excited a spirit of emulation in our seamen, and

aroused a desire for honourable distinction in northern enterprise

and discovery which was deep and lasting. The immediate and practical

effect was the opening of a lucrative trade with Russia.

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