operation on a normally open circuit. The drop for the closed circuit must
be so constructed that its latch holds the shutter in a vertical position
when there is a current in the drop winding, but allows it to fall as soon
as the drop circuit is opened.
An ordinary telegraph relay may be used in connection with the
closed-circuit alarm. The connections to the relay are such that the bell
circuit is normally open and remains so until the armature of the relay
is released, which does not occur until the circuit of which its winding
is a part is opened at one of the alarm springs. A special switch, A, and
resistance, B, are shown connected in circuit in Fig. 3, the object of
which is as follows: When it is desired to disconnect the alarm springs
or make them inoperative they must be replaced by another circuit which
will permit a sufficient current to pass through the relay winding at
all times, to prevent its armature from being released and sounding the
alarm. The switch A is so constructed that either the alarm switches or
the resistance B is in series with the battery and relay winding at all
times, there being no open-circuit position for the switch.
The fire-alarm switch for this type of signal may be made from a narrow
piece of tin foil, or some metal having a low melting temperature, mounted
between two insulated clips that are connected in the alarm circuit.
Strips of gold or silver foil may be placed on windows and connected in
the alarm circuit, which will give a protection from theft by breaking
the glass.
Two or three gravity cells will serve very nicely for the closed-circuit
battery, while several dry cells will do for the open-circuit or bell
battery.
All types of alarm switches can be purchased at any up-to-date electrical
supply house, but their construction and operation is so simple that
they may be easily made by almost anyone. A detailed description of the
construction of the various parts of the above circuits will not be given
here, but such details can be safely left to the ingenuity of the person
installing the system.
It is easily seen from the above description that a burglar who might
discover that a house was wired for alarm would be greatly perplexed to
know what to do, for the very thing that would prevent one kind of alarm
from ringing would cause the other to ring.
Removing a Rear Bicycle Sprocket
If a bicycle rider desires to remove the rear sprocket for changing the
gear, or for any other reason, and there is no large pipe wrench at hand,
a piece of tube or pipe, as shown in the sketch, can be used as a lever.
Fasten one end of the chain in one end of the pipe with a wedge and place
the other end of the pipe on a sprocket. The chain is then placed over the
sprockets and a leverage equal to any pipe wrench is secured.--Contributed
by Jno. V. Loeffler, Evansville, Ind.
[Illustration: The Piece of Pipe Gives a Leverage Equal to That of a Large
Pipe Wrench]
Hand Propeller-Wheel Attachment for a Rowboat
The rear fork of an old bicycle frame, with the crank hanger attached, and
the rear hub constitute the main parts of the propelling device. One of
the cranks is cut from the hanger and a bracket attached to the frame, as
shown, for making it fast to the stern of the boat. Two propeller blades
are bolted to the rear hub. A rudder is fastened to the rear tube of the
frame with hooks and eyes so that it can be turned with a handle at the
top, or with ropes run to a wheel. The illustration shows the connection
of the device to a boat.--Contributed by Berge Lion, Fresno, Cal.
[Illustration: The Rear Fork of a Bicycle with Its Parts Constitutes the
Main Propeller Attachment]
An Attached Back for a Photographic Printing Frame
In using the ordinary photographic printing frame with a spring-pressure
back, the back must be entirely removed from the frame to put in the
paper, and as this operation is carried on in a dim light, the back is
often mislaid, causing no little inconvenience and delay. To do away with
this annoyance, I placed at one end of the frame, as shown in the sketch,
a second hinge made of cloth or any pliable material. When the pressure
springs are released, the back swings down on this auxiliary hinge, and
after changing the papers, it is instantly closed by a slight movement of
the hand, making it very rapid and easy to use.--Contributed by Thos. L.
Parker, Wibaux, Mont.
[Illustration: The Back, being Hinged to the Frame, Prevents It from being
Mislaid]
Repairing a Worn Stop Cock
The plug of a worn stop cock, or one that has been reground, of the type
shown in the illustration will project beyond the bottom so that the ring,
or washer, and screw will not draw it tightly into place.
[Illustration: Removing a Portion of the Plug and Shortening the Screw
Allows the Parts to be Drawn Tightly Together]
To remedy this trouble, file off a portion of the plug on the line AA and
also file off a sufficient amount of the screw on the line BB. When the
plug is replaced and the washer and screw drawn up, the stop cock will be
as good as a new one.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
Tool Holders Made of Brass Clips
Hangers to grip tool handles can be easily formed of sheet metal in any
desired material. The clips are shaped as shown at A in the sketch. Any
number of the clips may be fastened with screws to a wood crosspiece or a
wall in such a manner as to make openings into which the handles of the
tools are pressed. Before fastening the clips they should be spaced for
the widths of the handles.--Contributed by F. H. Tillotson, Sycamore, Ill.
[Illustration: The Clips can be Set So That They will Grip Any Size Tool
Handle]
Removing Perspiration Stains from Delicate Cloth
Lay the stain in the cloth over some blotting paper, and sponge the cloth
with a grain-alcohol and ether solution, which should be made by mixing
equal portions of each. The sponging should be quite vigorous and kept
up until the cloth is dry, then the spot should be touched lightly with
ammonia water, which can be purchased at any drug store. This will leave
a slight blur, which can be removed by rubbing with French chalk on the
wrong side. The chalk is cheap and can be procured with the ammonia water.
Do not forget the blotting paper, as it keeps the solution from forming
a ring around the spot.
Buttonhole Cutter
If the buttonhole scissors are mislaid or there are none at hand, the
holes may be cut in the manner shown in the sketch. Place a piece of wood,
having a width equal to the length of the buttonhole, on the table and lay
the cloth over it in the line where the holes are required, then draw a
sharp knife across the cloth on the wood where the holes are marked. This
will cut the cloth neatly and accurately.--Contributed by A. S. Thomas,
Gordon, Can.
[Illustration: Sharp Knife Drawn across the Cloth Laid over a Piece of
Wood Cuts the Holes]
Filing Small Rods in a Lathe
Reducing the diameter of a small rod by filing while it is turning in a
lathe is a difficult thing to do, as the pressure of the file on one side
bends the rod. The filing may be easily accomplished by using two files,
as shown in the sketch. In this manner almost any amount of pressure can
be applied by squeezing the files together without danger of bending the
rod.--Contributed by J.F. Tholl, Detroit, Mich.
[Illustration: The Pressure of One File Against the Other Prevents the
Rod from Bending]
* * * * *
Young sleepwalkers may be cured if watched and given
a good switching until they are wide awake.
A D'Arsonval Galvanometer
A galvanometer in which the moving part of the instrument is a permanent
magnet controlled by the action of the earth's magnetic field and the
magnetic effect of a current in a coil of wire, that usually surrounds
the magnet, has the great disadvantage of having its indications changed,
although the current itself may remain constant, due to a change in
the strength of the magnetic field in which the instrument operates.
The operation of instruments of the above type is satisfactory only in
localities where there is a practically constant magnetic field for them
to operate in, which it is almost impossible to have, due to the presence
of permanent and electric magnets and magnetic materials such as iron and
steel.
An instrument constructed as follows will not have the above disadvantage
and its operation will be a great deal more satisfactory, as its
indications will be practically independent of outside disturbances. In
this instrument, the moving part is the coil carrying the current, and
it moves in a permanent magnetic field so strong that other disturbing
magnetic effects can be neglected. The coil is hung by means of a fine
wire and the twist in this wire is the only force acting to bring the coil
back to its zero position, after it has been deflected, and maintain it
there.
[Illustration: The Permanent Magnet and Its Brass Support, and Their
Position on the Base (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3)]
The construction of the magnet and containing case for the instrument
will be taken up first. Obtain a piece of Norway iron, 1/2 in. square
and about 9 in. long. Bend this piece into the form shown in Fig. 1, and
file off the inner edges until they are parallel and about 7/8 in. apart.
Drill four 1/8-in. holes in the ends of this piece, two in each end, as
indicated. This piece of iron is first tempered and then magnetized by
placing it in contact with a powerful electromagnet. Cut a second piece
from some soft iron with dimensions corresponding to those given in
Fig. 2. Drill two 1/8-in. holes, A and B, in this piece as shown in the
sketch. This second piece is mounted between the poles of the magnet, as
follows: Cut from some 1/32-in. sheet brass a piece similar to the one
shown in Fig. 3. Drill the holes indicated and thread those designated by
A, B, C, D, E, and F to take a 1/8-in. machine screw. Bend the upper end
of the piece over at the point indicated by the dotted line until it is
perpendicular to the lower part. The center of the hole in the projecting
part K, when it is bent over, should be about 1/4 in. from the outer
surface of the main part of the piece. The small piece of iron is then
fastened to the piece of brass with two round-headed screws that pass
through the two holes in it and into the holes A and B in the brass piece.
The magnet is mounted, also with small brass screws, so that the main part
of the magnet and the piece of brass extend in opposite directions, as
shown in Fig. 1. The assembled parts are then mounted on a wooden board,
whose dimensions are given in Fig. 1, with three brass screws that pass
through the holes G, H, and J, as shown.
[Illustration: Upper and Lower Connections to the Coil and Supports, and
the Supports for Suspension (Fig. 4, Fig. 5, Fig. 6, Fig. 7)]
The moving coil of the galvanometer is constructed as follows: Cut from
some 1/8-in. pine a piece 1-1/8 in. long and 5/8 in. wide. Cut two other
pieces whose dimensions, except their thickness, are 1/4 in. larger than
the first piece. Then fasten these two pieces to the sides of the first,
with three or four small screws through each of them, thus forming a
small spool. Saw about 16 slots with a very fine saw in the edges of the
projecting pieces and a short way into the edge of the center piece. Wind
on this spool about 300 turns of No. 38 gauge silk-covered copper wire.
Start with the terminal of the wire in the center of one end of the spool,
with a few inches of free wire for making connections, and end up with the
terminal in the center of the opposite end of the spool. A small thread
is then passed through the slots under the coil and tied, thus serving to
hold the various turns of wire together when the coil is removed from the
form. The coil should be given a coat of shellac as soon as it is removed
from the form.
Two pieces must now be attached to the top and bottom of the coil to be
used in making electrical connections and suspending the coil. Cut from
some very thin sheet brass two pieces whose dimensions correspond to
those given in Figs. 4 and 5. Drill a small hole in the center of each of
these pieces. Bend the lower part of each piece over at the dotted lines L
until it is perpendicular to the main portion of the piece. The bent-over
portions of these two pieces are then fastened to the ends of the coil
with some fine thread, making sure that they are in the center of the
ends before they are fastened. The terminals of the coil are now soldered
to these pieces. It would be best to place a sheet or two of thin paper
between the brass pieces and the coil, to prevent any part of the coil,
except the ends, from coming into contact with the brass pieces. Obtain
a small piece of thin mirror and mount it with some glue, as shown by the
dotted lines in Fig. 4.
The upper support for the suspension is shown in Fig. 6 and consists of
a 1/8-in. threaded screw, A, that passes through the hole in the part
K, Fig. 3, and is provided with two lock nuts, B. The lower end of this
screw should be slotted a short distance, and a small screw put through
it, perpendicular to the slot, so that a wire can be easily clamped in
the slot by turning up the screw. Next, take a piece of 1/32-in. brass, as
shown in Fig. 7, and bend it at the dotted line A until it forms a right
angle. The hole B should be threaded to take a 1/8-in. screw. The holes C
and D are for mounting the piece on the back of the instrument. Slot the
end of a 1/8-in. screw, about 1/2 in. long, and put a screw through the
end as for the upper support for the suspension. This piece is mounted
below the position the coil is to occupy, as shown by M, Fig. 1.
[Illustration: (Fig. 8)]
A case should be made for the galvanometer whose inside dimensions
correspond to those of the piece N, Fig. 1, and whose depth is about
3/4 in. more than the thickness of that piece. Four pieces of wood can be
fastened in the corners that will allow the case to slip just far enough
on the piece N to make the edge of the case and the back surface of the
piece N flush. Cut an opening in the front of this case, about 2 in. long
and 1 in. wide, in such a place that the center of the opening is about
level with the ends of the magnet. Fasten, back of this opening, a piece
of thin glass with four small screws whose heads rest upon the edge of the
glass. The interior of this case and all the parts should be given a coat
of lampblack mixed with a little vinegar. Two small binding posts, O and
P, are mounted on the upper end of the piece N and connected to the upper
and lower supports for the suspension of the coil.
This galvanometer will work best, of course, when it is in an exactly
vertical position and the following simple device, when attached to it,
will allow it to assume this position independent of the level of the
surface its base may rest upon. Cut from some 1-1/8-in. brass two pieces,
1/2 in. wide and 2-1/2 in. long. Drill a 1/8-in. hole in the center of
each end of them, 1/4 in. from the end, and a 1/4-in. hole through the
center of each. Bend these pieces to a 3/4-in. radius. Cut from some
1/2-in. hard wood a block, 1-1/4 in. square. Fasten the two pieces of
brass to the wooden block with 1/8-in. screws, as shown in Fig. 8. One
of these pieces is fastened to the upper end of the piece N, Fig. 1, so
that the galvanometer will hang vertically. The other piece is fastened
to a bracket from which the galvanometer is suspended. A suitable bracket
for this purpose can be easily made. When the galvanometer is hung in
this way, two binding posts are mounted on the bracket, and connected
to the two on the galvanometer. In this way the galvanometer will not be
disturbed when making connections.
The suspension is made as follows: Take a piece of small copper wire and
roll it out flat. Solder one end of a piece of this wire in the hole in
the piece of brass, with the mirror mounted on it. Fasten a piece of the
same wire to the lower brass piece, attached to the coil. The upper piece
of wire is then clamped in the end of the screw A, Fig. 6, so that the
coil hangs perfectly free about the iron core. The lower piece of wire is
bent around a small rod several times and its end fastened in the slot in
the lower screw.
The deflection of the instrument is read by causing a beam of light from
a lamp or candle to be reflected from the mirror to a scale located in
front of the instrument. If the light from the lamp is allowed to shine
through a small slit in a piece of dark paper, there will be a streak of
light reflected upon the scale, instead of a spot.
To use this instrument in measuring larger currents than it will safely
carry, connect it in parallel with another resistance which will carry
the larger part of the total current. The galvanometer can be calibrated
with this resistance, which is known as a shunt.
How to Make Advertising Lantern Slides
Procure some old discarded photographic films and remove the gelatin
coating by soaking them in hot water. When dry, write the desired words on
the thin celluloid and place it between two pieces of glass, lantern-slide
size, and bind them as in making a lantern slide.
With the use of a carbon paper a very nice slide can be made by writing
the words on a typewriter, and it will serve the purpose of an expensive
announcement slide.--Contributed by F. P. Dickover, Atkinson, Neb.
Utilizing Old Brush Handles
[Illustration]
The handle cut from an old dusting brush, fitted with the brass end of a
shotgun shell, makes a first-class tool handle. The handle is cut off at
A and the wood cut down to fit tightly into the brass shell.--Contributed
by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
* * * * *
Tincture-of-iodine stains may be removed from clothing
or the skin by using strong ammonia water.
Preserving Paints and Pastes
White lead, thick shellac, and pastes that are used occasionally may be
preserved by laying a piece of leather over the exposed surface. When
these materials are kept in cans, cut a piece of leather from the upper of
a heavy boot of such a size that it will drop freely into the container.
Form a handle on the leather disk by driving a nail through its center
from the under side. Press the disk down smoothly over the surface of the
contents and a thin film of oil will soon form over the disk, effectually
excluding the air. A loose cover is placed over the container, to keep
out dust.--Contributed by Luther McKnight, Colorado City, Col.
A Burner for Soldering Small Work
[Illustration]
As it was necessary for me to solder the joints of fine wires on
electrical instruments, and other small work, I found myself in need of
a blowpipe that gave a small but very hot and easily directed flame, was
automatic in its operation and required no blast. I tried an ordinary
acetylene burner on coal or city gas, and found it gave an intensely hot,
nonluminous flame, due to the forced draft of air through the small holes.
This flame will melt silver, copper and, also, silver solder. Its great
advantage lies in the fact that it may be used for sweating together small
articles rapidly and with great neatness. I always keep this blowpipe
burning, as the gas it consumes is very small, and the burner is kept
within easy reach by using a hanger, as shown in the illustration.
A single jet of flame is obtained by stopping up one of the tips, which
is very useful in many ways. This flame may contain a small luminous spot
on some city gas, but it does not interfere with the heat.--Contributed
by Arthur Worischek, New York City.
A Safety-Match-Box Holder
A holder, as well as a tray, for safety matches can be made from any
ordinary tobacco can. The metal on one side is cut as shown and the
pieces bent up to form standards for holding the match box in an upright
position. The openings left where the metal was raised are used for
dropping the burned matches into the box. The hinged cover is used for
emptying the tray.--Contributed by David B. Lutz, E. St. Louis, Ill.
[Illustration: The Match Box is Held Upright between Standards Formed from
the Tin of the Tobacco Box]
Removing Ink Stains from Book Leaves
When the leaves of a book are accidentally stained with ink it can be
removed quite readily by the following process: After removing as much of
the ink as possible with a camel's-hair brush dipped in water, soak the
stained parts in a solution of oxalate of potash, or better still, oxalic
acid. This will remove all the ink. Treat again with water, as before, so
that when it dries out no salt will appear on the paper. This process does
not affect printer's ink.--Contributed by S. G. Thompson, Owensboro, Ky.
A Needle-Spray Nozzle
[Illustration]
To make a needle-spray nozzle, either insert a 22-caliber cartridge in
a small tube, or place a 45-caliber shell over the end of the tube and
solder it in place. The end is perforated to make one or more small holes,
as desired.
[Illustration]
How to Make an Electrotype Stamp
The method described in the following produces a very good metal stamp
for any name, initial, drawing, etc.
Procure a smooth and perfectly level sheet of brass about 1/16 in. thick
and about 3 by 4 in. in size. Nickelplate the brass so that the copper
deposit will not stick to it. If a small plating outfit is not at hand the
piece may be plated at a local plating works for a nominal price. Dip the
plate in melted paraffin until the coating is about 1/16 in. thick and see
that no metal is exposed. Drill a hole in one corner and attach a wire.
Draw the letters or sketch desired, using a metal stylus having a sharp
point, taking care to make the lines scratched in the wax clean and open
to the surface of the metal (Fig. 1).
[Illustration: Making the Copper Shell (Fig. 1)]
A large open-mouthed bottle or glass tank will be required for the plating
solution, which is made by dissolving copper sulphate in water until the
solution is saturated with the sulphate and then adding a few drops of
sulphuric acid. Immerse the plate in the solution as shown in Fig. 2 and
connect with the zinc pole of the battery. Put a piece of pure copper in
on the opposite side of the jar and connect with the carbon pole of the
battery, using care in each case to keep the connection of the wire and
the upper part of the plate above the surface. One or two dry cells will
be sufficient. If the current is right, the deposit on the waxed plate
will be a flesh pink; if too strong, it will be a dirty brick color and
the plate will have to be washed and the current reduced. When the desired
thickness of metal is deposited, remove the plate and pour boiling water
on the back. This will remove the thin copper shell and the nickeled plate
may be laid away for future use.
[Illustration: (Fig. 2)]
Procure a flat pan and after placing the shell in it, face down, sprinkle
a little resin or soldering flux on the back. Lay three or four sheets
of the lead from tea packages on the back of the shell and heat it over
a spirit lamp or on the stove until the lead melts and runs into the
crevices on the back of the copper, thus making it solid and suitable
for mounting. Mount as shown in Fig. 3 with small brass screws and after
polishing the surface to remove dirt, etc., the stamp is ready for use.
[Illustration: (Fig. 3)]
An ordinary stamp pad will do for inking, but the best ink to use is
printer's slightly thinned, as the ordinary rubber stamp ink is not
suitable for a metal stamp.--Contributed by S. V. Cooke, Hamilton, Ont.
A Cover for a Bottle
If a glass medicine bottle is to be carried constantly in the pocket, it
is best to cover it with leather or rubber. The sketch shows how to cut
the pattern so that it will fit a square bottle. The bottle is placed on
the leather, or a piece of paper as a pattern, and the outlines marked
upon it. The leather or paper is then folded over four times and cut
out as shown. This cover will prevent the glass from being scattered in
the pocket should the bottle be accidentally broken. It always provides
a means of distinguishing it from other bottles of the same type and
size.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
[Illustration: Pattern for Making a Bottle Cover of Leather or Rubber for
Bottles Carried in the Pocket]
Boring a Long Hole
[Illustration]
The usual method of boring a hole through a piece of wood longer than the
bit is to bore from each end. To make the hole straight by this method,
split the wood or saw it in halves, then make a knife kerf in both pieces
on a center line of the hole and glue the pieces together. The spur of the
bit will follow the kerf from either end, and the result will be a meeting
of the holes, almost perfectly in the center.--Contributed by Ernest J.
Dickert, Niagara Falls, N. Y.
Covering for a Gas-Stove Top
While frying or cooking on a gas stove the grease will spatter over the
top and make the cleaning rather difficult, especially where there are
many crevices. A simple method of avoiding this trouble is to place a
paper over the top of the stove, with round holes cut out for each burner
a little larger than the pots and pans used in the cooking. This will keep
the stove very clean with a minimum of bother. A paper cut to fit the
under pan will keep that part clean.--Contributed by S. F. Warner, East
Orange, N. J.
Homemade Skis
Not having a bent board suitable for a pair of skis, I proceeded to make
the skis in the following manner: A cheese box was procured and two pieces
cut out of the side, each 15 in. long and 3 in. wide. These were used
for the upturned ends and two boards, 6 ft. long and 3 in. wide, served
as the runners. A notch, 4 in. long and 1/8 in. deep, was cut in one end
of each board to receive one end of the thin curved pieces cut from the
cheese box, which were fastened with screws. The upper end of each thin
piece was cut to a point.
[Illustration: The Curved Part of the Runner is Made from Pieces Cut Out
of a Round Cheese Box]
A piece for the foot, 10 in. long and 3 in. wide, with a notch 1 in. wide
and 1/4 in. deep, was fastened in the center of the runner. A strap is run
through the notch for holding the ski to the foot--Contributed by Henry
Meuse, Reading, Mass.
* * * * *
To remove iron rust or ink stains from cloth, use a
warm solution of oxalic acid with a few crystals of
citric acid added. Repeat the washings until the stain
is removed.
How to Make a Dry Cell
The containing vessel for the cell should be made from sheet zinc. It
should be cylindrical in form, approximately 2-1/2 in. in diameter and
6 in. long. This vessel is to form the negative terminal of the cell and
a suitable connecting device, similar to the one shown in the sketch,
should be provided and securely fastened to the upper edge of the vessel.
The vessel should be lined with some heavy blotting paper, both sides and
bottom.
[Illustration: Cross Section through the Cell, Showing the Construction
and Location of the Parts]
Place into a glass jar a small quantity of chloride-of-zinc crystals, and
pour over them 1/2 pt. of distilled water. Allow the crystals to dissolve
at least one-half hour. If the crystals all dissolve, add more until
some remain in the bottom of the jar, or until the liquid is saturated.
Pour off the solution and dilute it by adding an equal part of distilled
water. Add to this solution sal ammoniac, in the proportion of 1 lb. of
sal ammoniac to every 2 qt. of liquid. Fill the dry-cell vessel with this
solution and allow it to remain until the blotting paper is completely
saturated.
Obtain a good size electric-light carbon, about 5/8 in. in diameter, and
file one end down as shown. Drill a hole through the carbon and mount a
terminal.
Make a mixture of equal parts of finely powdered carbon and manganese
dioxide of sufficient amount to almost fill the vessel. Add to this
mixture some of the solution and thoroughly mix them. Continue adding
solution until a thick paste is formed.
Pour the solution out of the vessel and allow the latter to drain for a
few minutes in an inverted position. Place the carbon rod in the center
of the vessel and pack the paste down around it, being careful not to move
the carbon rod from its central position. The vessel should be filled with
the paste to within about 5/8 in. of the top. The lower end of the carbon
rod should not be nearer the bottom of the vessel than 1/2 in. Over the
top of the paste place a mixture of equal parts sand and fine sawdust and
then, over this, a layer of pitch, which acts as a seal for the cell.
A layer of blotting paper should be placed between the sand-sawdust
mixture and the carbon-manganese mixture. The side lining of the vessel
should be turned in before the sand-sawdust mixture is placed in the top
of the cell. The outside of the cell should be covered with some heavy
pasteboard, which will serve to insulate the negative terminal from the
surface upon which the cell rests.
A Hose-Nozzle Handle
A handle for a garden-hose nozzle is easily made of a piece of wire and
the wooden part of a package carrier. The wire is bent to receive the
hose at A, and, after the handle is slipped on, the other end is formed
to fit tightly over the brass nozzle at B. The hose nozzle can be easily
carried with the handle, which will keep the hand dry.--Contributed by F.
G. Marbach, Cleveland, O.
[Illustration: The Handle Is Made of a Piece of Wire and a Package Grip]
Guide for Cutting Mortises
[Illustration]
After spending considerable time in cutting one mortise in a piece to make
the settee described in a recent issue of Popular Mechanics Magazine,
I devised the plan shown in the sketch which enabled me to cut all the
mortises required in the time that I cut one in the ordinary manner. Two
metal plates, one of which is shown in the sketch, having a perfectly
straight edge, are clamped on the piece with the straight edge on the line
of the mortise. A hacksaw is applied through holes bored at the ends and
a cut sawed along against the metal edges.--Contributed by George Gluck,
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.
Insect-Proof Poultry Roost
[Illustration]
To protect the poultry from mites and other insects while roosting,
I constructed a roost hanger, as shown, with oil cups made of empty
shoe-polish cans. The cover of the box was nailed to the roost and the
bottom, for holding the oil, on top of the roost support. A large nail was
driven through the support from the under side and through the center of
the can bottom, so that about 1-1/4 in. projected above the latter.
The can cover was perforated in the center and a hole, about 1/2 in. deep,
was drilled in the roost so that the end of the nail would easily slip
into it. The bottom of the can was filled with a mixture of kerosene,
vaseline and carbolic acid and the roost set in place. Both ends of each
roost are fixed in the same way. This makes it impossible for any insects
to get on the roost.--Contributed by Rudolph Netzeband, St. Louis, Mo.
To Prevent Shade Rollers from Unwinding
Obtain a stick for the hem on the lower end of the shade that is 2 in.
longer than the shade is wide. Place two small wood screws in the window
casing below the shade roller in such a position that they will catch the
ends of the stick when the shade is raised to the top.--Contributed by
Harry E. Kay, Ossining, N. Y.
A Screen and Storm-Door Cushion
[Illustration]
A good cushion that will prevent a spring door from slamming can be made
out of material cut from an old rubber boot or, better still, from an
old hollow rubber ball. Three strips of heavy rubber, 1-1/4 in. long and
3/8 in. wide, are cut and each fastened with two tacks so that the center
will make a hump, as shown in the sketch. One cushion is fastened near
the top, one near the bottom, and one in the center, in the rabbet of the
door frame.--Contributed by D. Andrew McComb, Toledo, O.
Repairing a Coaster Brake
[Illustration]
Anyone having a bicycle coaster brake that is apparently useless because
it will not brake, can easily repair it in the following manner: Remove
the inner hub by unscrewing the cones and insert a piece of clock spring,
about the same width as the brake shell and almost as long as its inside
periphery. Replace the parts and the repair will render the brake quite
as efficient as a new one. The spring serves as a braking surface for
the expanding steel shoes of the brake.--Contributed by Heber H. Clewett,
Pomona, Cal.
Flypaper Holder
The ordinary method of using sticky flypaper is quite annoying, as it
cannot be easily removed from anything that may come in contact with its
sticky surface. The best way to avoid this trouble is to make a holder
for the paper, and one can be constructed of a piece of wire and a metal
cover taken from a jelly glass. The wire is threaded at one end on which
the cover is clamped between two nuts. The upper end of the wire is shaped
into a hook for hanging it wherever desired. The paper is rolled with the
sticky side out and tied with strings, then slipped over the wire and set
into the inverted cover. The cover prevents any of the sticky substance
from dripping onto the floor and the wire holds it from being blown about
the room.--Contributed by Percy de Romtra, Cape May Point, N. J.
[Illustration: The Paper, Held in an Upright Position, will Catch More
Flies Than If Placed Flat]
A Fish Rake
The fish rake can be made in any size, for minnows or salmon, but it
is especially adapted for fish that run in schools, like smelt, herring
and minnows. Procure a piece of wood, 7 ft. long, 4 in. wide and 7/8 in.
thick, and make a handle 3 ft. long on one end. Dress the other end to an
edge, rip off a 1-in. strip and drill holes to receive nails or pieces of
wire from the back, through the edge, and projecting about 4 in. The strip
is then replaced and fastened with screws. The handle can be cut from the
blade and jointed by using tubing. This makes it handy to take apart and
pack.--Contributed by L. W. Pedrose, Seattle, Wash.
[Illustration: The Rake is so Constructed That It can be Taken Apart for
Packing]
To Harden Small Blocks of Wood
Small blocks of wood can be hardened so that they will not split so easily
when small screws are inserted by boiling them in olive oil for about
10 minutes. The olive oil can be kept for future use. If it is desired
to waterproof the blocks after hardening them, they should be placed in
melted paraffin and allowed to cool in the solution. This gives the block
of wood a good appearance and makes it nonabrasive and waterproof.
Homemade Clothesline Reel
[Illustration]
It is much better to make a small reel, like the one shown, for a
clothesline than to wind the line on the arm, the usual method of getting
it into shape for putting away.
The reel consists of two strips of wood, 16 in. long, 3 in. wide and
7/8 in. thick. These are joined together with two pieces of broom handle,
allowing a space of 9 in. between the sides and an extending handle
of 5 in. on opposite sides, as shown.--Contributed by Bert Longabaugh,
Davenport, Iowa.
Gear-Cutting Machine
Perhaps the last thing that would be thought within range of the amateur
who lacks a full equipment of machinery is the cutting of gear wheels. The
device shown in the sketch is very practical, and, with the most ordinary
assortment of iron-working tools, will serve to turn out an accurate gear.
[Illustration: Details of Gear-Cutting Machine (Fig. 1)]
No system of supports is shown, as they are easily supplied. A flat,
square board, B, as large as can be obtained--2 ft. on a side being
the safest minimum--is used for a dial. A sheet of paper is pasted over
the entire board and a large circle drawn on it. This circle is divided
into as many parts as there are to be teeth in the gear. A depression is
made with a prick punch at each division. A shaft, C, is run through the
center, to which an arm, A, is firmly attached. A nail, N, is placed at
the end of the arm so that the point can enter each of the punch marks
on the periphery or circumference of the circle. A blank wheel, W, is
attached to the shaft C, in the position shown, and resting on the iron
plate or strap F. A cutting tool, D, works up and down in a slot in F.
This cutter is held away from the blank wheel by the spring S, and moved
up to it by the screw G, acting through the sliding member H. A stove bolt
may be used for G, with the nut firmly fastened to the strap F. The cutter
is actuated with a handle E, whose motion is limited by the pegs as shown.
In Fig. 2 is shown a top view of the strap E, with a cross section of the
cutter and the slot in which it works.
[Illustration: (Fig. 2)]
The operation of the mechanism is as follows: With the blank wheel in
place set the nail N in one of the punch marks and move the handle E
downward. This will make a slight cut on the wheel. Then give the screw
G a turn or two, which will make the cutter take a deeper bite, and push
the handle down again. This operation is repeated, screwing G constantly
deeper, until it is stopped by the locknut J, which regulates the depth of
the cut. Move the nail N to the next punch mark and repeat. The operations
are very quickly performed and the circle will be closed almost before
you know it.
There are several points to be observed. The accuracy depends upon
three things. First, the slot through which the cutter passes must be
tight-fitting, even at the expense of working hard. Second, the shaft
C must fit tightly in the holes made for it through B and F, also the
arm A must be firmly attached, the shaft being filed flat at the point
of attachment. The blank wheel should be keyed on the shaft or securely
fastened with a setscrew. Third, the nail N must enter the punch marks
accurately. As the grinding circle is so much larger than the blank, any
error here is greatly reduced in the finished wheel. Once in a punch mark
the nail must not be allowed to slip until the tooth has been cut.
In practice, it will be found better, after each stroke of the handle, to
give a quarter turn outward to the screw G, thus avoiding the scraping of
the tool on the up stroke. The cutter can be made of any suitable steel
with the cutting point ground to give whatever shape is desired for the
tooth. The best shape for any particular purpose can be found by reference
to a book on gears.
This cutter is adapted, of course, only to the softer metals. For
experimental purposes a blank cast in type metal is excellent and will
last as long probably as required. The mechanism here described will
cut brass perfectly well and a gear made of this more durable metal will
answer for a finished construction. Type-metal blanks commend themselves
because they are so easily cast, any flame which will melt solder being
sufficient, and the molds, of wood, plaster of Paris or any easily worked
material, being quickly constructed.--Contributed by C. W. Nieman, New
York City.
A Potato Peeler
The guard is made of a piece of wire about 1 in. shorter than the blade
of an ordinary table knife. The ends of the wire are turned into a coil
to resemble a coil spring with coils close together. Allow enough wire to
project on one end to be flattened and pointed for an eye extractor.
[Illustration: Guard Made of Wire]
When this device is placed on the knife, the contrivance works on the same
principle as a spokeshave. The first setting peels the potato without
any appreciable waste, the other setting may be as desired for cutting
slices.--Contributed by H. W. Ravens, Seattle, Washington.
An Easy Way to Develop Roll Film
This is simply a different motion to the tiresome seesaw one usually
employs when films are being developed. In wetting them down previous to
immersion in the developer, do not keep them in the water long enough to
become limp, but remove them after a few quick dips, says Camera Craft,
They will then retain some of their curling tendency, so that by taking
one end in one hand and gradually lowering the film into the dish of
developer and then raising it out of the dish, it will be found that the
film will roll and unroll quite readily, much as one would let out or
wind in a reel. This method will result in quicker development, because
the roll is nearly always immersed in developer. The method necessitates
using only one hand, making it possible to develop a second strip at the
same time with the other. The illustration shows quite clearly just how
the film will behave.
[Illustration: Developing Film]
A Shoe Hanger
An inexpensive shoe hanger can be made of a strip of tin, about 1/2 in.
wide and as long as the space will permit. Cut notches along one edge and
bend the tin and tack or screw it on a strip of board or to the inside
of the closet door. The shoes are hung up by the heels with the toes
down.--Contributed by C. R. Poole, Los Angeles, Cal.
[Illustration: Notched Metal Hanger]
How to Make a Small Vertical Drill
[Illustration]
A small hand drill with a three-jaw chuck that will take the smallest
drill can be purchased very reasonably. For ordinary work these drills do
very well, but for comparatively deep holes, or when using long, slender
drills, some sort of a stand should be made, if for no other reason, to
avoid breaking the drills, which is almost invariably due to the side
motion of the hand. There are other reasons, however, for making such a
stand, and these lie in the fact that it is impossible to drill by hand
at right angles with the surface of the metal, or to hold such a drill
sufficiently steady to avoid widening the hole around the top.
As each make of hand drill will require a somewhat different form of
stand, no detailed description need be given of the one illustrated.
The principal point is to have the base and standard securely set at
right angles to each other, and then provide a smoothly sliding piece
to which the hand drill may be clamped. The edges on this slide and the
corresponding guides should be planed off to an angle of 45 deg. One of
the guides should be adjustable, which may be arranged by elongating the
screw holes and placing small washers under the heads of the screws that
hold this guide to the main standard.
A neat little hand drill, arranged in this manner and firmly secured to
the bench, may also be used for finishing the ends of small shafts, either
flat or pointed, for polishing screw heads, etc., to all of which it gives
that workmanlike appearance that can only be had when things are polished
with a true rotary motion.--Contributed by John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.
Decorating Candles
Candles can be easily decorated by the following method: The designs can
be selected from paper prints which are tightly wrapped around the candle
with the design in contact with the wax. Strike a match and play the flame
over the back of the paper. Allow time enough for the melted wax to harden
and then remove the paper. The print will be transferred to the wax.
Select designs that are not larger than the circumference of the candle.
A good impression of ink on thin paper works best.--Contributed by J. J.
Kolar, Maywood, Ill.
Homemade Hacksaw Frame
A home workshop not having a complete set of tools may be supplied in many
ways with tools made by the owner. The hacksaw frame illustrated is one
of these. The frame is made of hard wood. The saw end is inserted in a
slot sawed in the handle end, and a screw or small bolt holds it in place.
The other end is equipped with a bolt having a sheet-metal head, as shown
at A. The blade is kept from turning by a projection of the sheet metal
which fits in a saw cut made in the frame.--Contributed by W. A. Henry,
Galesburg, Ill.
[Illustration: Hacksaw Frame, Cut from Hard Wood, with Fittings Attached
to Draw the Blade Taut]
[Illustration]
Drill Press on an Ordinary Brace
As the greater part of the energy required for drilling metal by hand is
used for feeding the drill, I made what I term a drill box in which the
brace is held perfectly true and pressure is applied by a weight. The
feed can be changed for the different metals and sizes of drills, also
for drilling the hard outside of castings and relieving the drill for the
softer body. The constant feed will cause the drill to turn out a long
chip, and a number of holes may be drilled to a uniform depth by using
the same feed and counting the turns of the brace handle.
[Illustration: The Weights Apply a Constant Pressure to the Drill, Which
can be Easily Turned (Fig. 1)]
To build the box, first find the dimensions of the brace, as shown in
Fig. 1: the diameter of the head A, the clearance B from the top of the
head to 1/4 in. above the top of the handle C, and the over-all length
D when the longest drill is in the brace. Make a box having an inside
length equal to the dimension D, plus whatever additional height may be
necessary for the work. Make the inside width twice the distance C, plus
6 in. for clearance; and the inside depth the length C, plus one-half of
the dimension A, plus 3 in. Use material 7/8 in. thick and nail the parts
together to form a rectangular frame. Cut a piece of broomstick as long
as the dimension B, and two pieces of wood as long as the inside width
of the box and as wide as the dimension B. Cut two pieces 1/16 in. longer
than the dimension A and as wide as the length B. Nail these latter pieces
together as shown in Fig. 2, leaving a square space in the center. This
frame is to be nailed inside of the top of the box flush with the front,
but before doing so lay it on top of the box to determine where the center
of the square space will come, and bore a hole, large enough for the round
stick cut from the broom handle to slip through easily, then nail the
frame on the under side of the top piece.
[Illustration: (Fig. 2)]
Procure a tough piece of wood, 1-1/2 in. square and long enough to project
2 in. over the right and 10 in. over the left side of the box top, and
when in this position, locate the hole bored for the round stick and bore
a hole in the square stick, 1/8 in. deep, to coincide with it. Place the
head of the brace in the guide and push it up until it touches the top
of the box and block it up in this position, then drop the round stick
through the hole and rest it on the head of the brace. Place the socket
in the lever over the top of the round stick. Make a loop, 8 in. long, of
heavy wire and hang it over the right end of the lever and mark the box at
the lower end of the loop. Turn in a large screw 1/2 in. below this mark
allowing it to project enough to hook the loop under it. Remove the round
stick and put a screw at the point the bottom of the loop reaches when the
lever is flat on the top of the box. Another screw turned in between these
two will be sufficient to hold the lever in position. Different-sized
weights, of from 5 to 10 lb., are used on the lever, but for small drills
the weight of the brace alone is sufficient.--Contributed by Maurice
Coleman, W. Roxbury, Mass.
Homemade Picture-Frame Miter Box
Any person wishing to make a picture frame, or to cut down an old one,
requires a miter box for that purpose, so that the molding may be properly
held while sawing it, and also for nailing the corners together. I made a
miter box, as shown, and found it to be just the thing for this purpose.
It is built on a base similar to an overturned box, the saw guides being
held on the ends of a piece, constructed as shown at A. Holes are cut in
the top, as shown at B, for one of the guides and for the two wedges. Two
pieces, C, are fastened with their outer edges at perfectly right angles
on the top.
[Illustration: Homemade Miter Box for Sawing Frame Molding and to Hold
the Parts for Fastening Together]
The frame parts are clamped against the pieces on top with the wedges
driven in between the frame parts and the brackets DD. After cutting the
frame parts they are tightly held in place while fastening them, in any
manner desired.--Contributed by A. S. Thomas, Amherstburg, Can.
Tank-Development Methods Used in Tray Development
If there are a number of plates to be developed, place a rubber band,
about 1/8 in. wide, around the ends of each plate and put them together
in a tray. The bands keep the plates apart. The developer is made up
as for a tank and poured over the plates, then another tray, or dark
covering, is placed over the top. Allow this to stand, rocking the
tray from time to time, the same length of time as is required for tank
development.--Contributed by Earl R. Hastings, Corinth, Vermont.
A Pushmobile Racer for Ice
The pushmobile shown in the illustration takes the place of the one
with rollers that is now so popular with the boys. The materials
required, usually found about any home, consist of a foot board, 1 in.
thick, 2-1/2 in. wide and 2 ft. long; two pieces of wood, each 3/4 in.
thick, 2-1/2 in. wide and 9 in. long; one steering post, 1 in. thick,
1-1/2 in. wide and 30 in. long; one handle, 6 in. long; one small hinge;
one carriage bolt, 1/2 in. in diameter and 2-1/2 in. long; two 1/2-in.
washers; a few screws, and a pair of discarded ice skates.
[Illustration: Homemade Pushmobile, Constructed the Same as the Wheeled
Kind, with Runners for Snow and Ice]
One of the 3/4-in. thick pieces is fastened solidly to one end of the
foot board with the ends flush. The other piece is swiveled with the
bolt at the opposite or front end of the foot board so that at least
one-half of the piece projects beyond the end. The steering post is hinged
to the projecting end. The skates are fastened to the 3/4-in. pieces
for runners. The manner of propelling the racer is the same as for the
pushmobile.--Contributed by W. E. Crane, Cleveland, O.
Homemade Ellipsograph By Chelsea Curtis Fraser
An efficient ellipsograph is the only device that will make true ellipses
of various sizes quickly, and such a machine is in demand on some classes
of work in a drafting room. Its cost, however, is prohibitive where only
few ellipses are to be drawn, but a person handy with tools can make an
apparatus that will do the work as well as the most expensive instrument.
[Illustration: Practically Any Size or Proportion of Ellipse, from 1-1/2
to 16 In. Maximum Diameter, can be Drawn with an Instrument of This Size,
and Larger Instruments will Work Equally Well (Fig. 1)]
The completed ellipsograph, herein described, will appear as shown in
Fig. 1. It consists of two main parts, the base and the arm. The former
is a hardwood piece, A, Fig. 2, to the side center of which is attached
another hardwood piece, B. This latter piece may be dovetailed into A, but
an ordinary butt joint will suffice, as a one-piece base, C, also of hard
wood, is glued to the bottom surfaces of the pieces A and B, thus securely
holding them together. Before gluing, however, care must be taken to see
that the piece B is exactly at right angles with the piece A. This can be
done with a try-square. Dimensions are given in Fig. 2. The same letters
are used throughout for the same parts.
[Illustration: (Fig. 2)]
A 1/16-in. groove, H, is cut out at the juncture of A and B, to admit the
flange of the minor-axis swivel head. Another groove, J, is made along the
longitudinal center of the piece B, to receive the spine of the major-axis
swivel head. Sheet brass plates, D and E, are cut from 1/16-in. stock and
attached to the top of the piece A with screws. The plates F and G are
of the same material and fastened in a like manner to the upper surface
of the piece B. All plates project slightly where they touch the groove
borders, as shown. This is to provide a bearing for the projections on the
sliding parts against metal instead of wood. A piece of thin celluloid
or brass plate, K, is inserted in the bottom side of the base C so that
the point will be exactly in line with the center groove J, and extend
outward 1/8 in. This point indicates the center of all ellipses to be
drawn. In the bottom of the base C, at each end, drive an ordinary pin
and cut it off so that a part of it will project beyond the surface of the
wood. These extending ends are pointed with a file, and serve to keep the
instrument from slipping when in use.
[Illustration: (Fig. 3)]
The arm L is shown in Fig. 3. It is made of either maple or birch. Follow
the dimensions given, cutting a slot through it longitudinally, as shown
at M, narrower on the upper side than on the lower, the upper being
1/4 in. wide. An octagon-shaped piece of wood, N, 1/2 in. thick, is glued
to the end, to give a good seating for the sleeve O, which is a piece of
1/2-in. solid-brass rod, 2 in. long, drilled to receive closely the pencil
sheath. The latter, P, can be made from a section of brass tubing such
as is used in a bicycle-pump valve. The upper end is notched to receive
a rubber band, and an ordinary pencil can be cut down to fit closely into
the other end. The piece O fits tightly in a hole bored through N and L.
[Illustration: (Fig. 4)]
The detail of the minor-axis swivel head is shown in Fig. 4. This swivel
head consists of two pieces of brass, one, marked Q, being 3/8 in. square
by 3/4 in. long and the other, R, 7/8 in. square by 1/2 in. long, with
a notch cut out as shown. These parts, as well as the somewhat similar
ones for the major-axis swivel head, can be cast cheaply, or block brass
may be cut with a hacksaw and filed to the right shape. A shortened
dry-cell screw, S, with washer, to fit a tapped hole drilled in the piece
Q, serves to bind the head where desired on the arm. The flange T is a
piece of 1/16-in. brass driven into a slot cut in the piece R. The piece
R is pivoted to the piece Q, as shown, by means of a piece of wire nail
which engages Q, by friction, the lower end being fitted with a washer
and riveted loosely so that the parts will turn freely.
[Illustration: Fig. 5]
The major-axis swivel-head detail is shown in Fig. 5. The piece U is the
same size as Q, Fig. 4, with its screw set a little farther forward to
make room for the pivot V, which loosely joins U and W together. The pivot
is made of a wire nail, riveted on both ends. The piece W is of brass,
1/2 in. thick, 3/4 in. wide and 7/8 in. long. The spine X is made just
thick enough to pass freely in the groove J, Fig. 2. A screw taken from
a discarded dry-battery cell is used to bind the head to the arm.
To operate the ellipsograph, draw a line, Y, Fig. 1, on the paper, which
is to mark the major axis of the ellipse. About midway of its length make
a point to represent the center. On the latter set the point K, Fig. 2,
and adjust the bottom forward edge of the base C parallel with the line Y.
Set the minor-axis swivel head at such a point on the arm L that, when the
latter is directly on top of the piece B, the pencil will touch the paper
at a distance from the center, marked by K, equal to half the minor axis
of the proposed ellipse. To secure the major axis swing the arm until it
is parallel with the piece A, leaving the major-axis swivel head unset,
and set it when the pencil point has been adjusted to the proper major
radius.
Grasp the arm with the right hand between the swivel heads and bearing
down, swing the pencil end from right to left. The rubber band will keep
it constantly on the paper with even pressure. When half of the ellipse
is completed detach the rubber band and reverse the instrument to the
opposite side of the longitudinal line Y and draw the other half in the
same manner.
Protector Cap for a Chisel Handle
[Illustration]
The ordinary chisel handle will soon split and break under the continuous
blows of a mallet. A very good and inexpensive method of preventing this
is to procure an ordinary patent bottle cap and place it on the end of
the handle. It is advisable to shape the end of the handle like a bottle
top in order to firmly hold the cap in place.--Contributed by Bert Verne,
San Diego, Cal.
Sweeping Compound
A good sweeping compound may be made as follows: Mix 1/2 pt. of warm
paraffin oil with 2 oz. of melted paraffin wax and add 2 oz. of artificial
oil of sassafras. Then pour the mixture into 10 lb. of sawdust and work
the whole thoroughly together. Add to this mixture 4 lb. of clean sand
and 1/2 lb. of coarse salt. Each article mentioned is comparatively cheap,
and the compound can be kept in an open container.--Contributed by Loren
Ward, Des Moines, Iowa.
[Illustration]
Freezing a Basin to a Chair
Fill a basin or pot half full of snow, and secretly put a handful of table
salt in it and place the vessel on a chair or table, wetting the space
where it is to be set. After holding the basin in place for about two
minutes, continually stirring the contents, it will freeze to the chair
so solidly that when the basin is lifted the chair will come along with
it.
This experiment is quite interesting to an audience and can be performed
at any assemblage with success. If the instructions are carried out
closely, the trick will always succeed and the audience will consider it
magic. Even if performed in a warm room, the combination of snow and salt
will reduce the temperature below the freezing point where the bottom of
the vessel comes in contact with the chair seat.--Contributed by Harry
Slosower, Pittsburgh, Pa.
An Envelope and Stamp Moistener
[Illustration]
A moistener for postage stamps or envelopes can be easily made from a
screw-top jar. A strip of felt cut as wide as the jar is deep and made
into a roll large enough to fit the neck of the jar serves as a wick.
The metal top is perforated, and, after filling the jar with water, it
is screwed into place. This makes a very inexpensive moistener for the
library desk.
A Homemade Drill Press
An ordinary breast drill is used in the construction of this drill press,
it being rigidly secured to a piece of oak, A, 2 in. square and 18 in.
long, which is a sliding member on the pipe B. In attaching the breast
drill to the wood, a bolt, having a hook on the head end, was used at the
top, at C, and a stud at the bottom D. Pipe clips, EE, were attached on
one side of the block to fit loosely over the pipe B. The vertical part
of the pipe is supported by two horizontal pieces, FF, which are fastened
to a post. A feed lever, G, is pivoted at the top of the vertical piece of
oak A and fulcrumed on the post with a bolt through a slot, the extending
end carrying a weight as a counterbalance. The illustration clearly shows
the construction of this very useful drill press.--Contributed by W. A.
Ready, Boston, Mass.
[Illustration: The Breast Drill as It is Attached to an Upright, to Make
a Drill Press]
* * * * *
A pair of bicycle trousers guards makes excellent
sleeve bands when the cuffs are turned back and rolled
above the elbows.
Arts-Crafts Leather Work By Mary C. Scovel
Part I
Leather work is one of the most interesting of the crafts, first, because
the material is so pliable that anyone can work it, and secondly, because
any ordinary article can be made by simply following the directions
carefully, although each of the various kinds of leather demands a
different process.
The equipment necessary is simple, consisting of two special tools costing
50 cents each, one with a narrow edge for lining patterns, and one with
broad ends for tooling; and a piece of tin, plate glass, or very smooth
hard wood, which should not be smaller than 9 by 12 in. A soft sponge, a
triangle, a rule, tracing paper and a hard pencil are also needed.
The first attempt should be made on a piece of Russian calfskin. This may
be purchased at any leather store or craft shop and costs about 50 cents a
square foot, if cut to measure. Whole skins contain from 8 to 12 sq. ft.
and cost about 35 cents a square foot. Calfskin may be had in almost any
color.
[Illustration: Coin Purse--Back]
[Illustration: Coin Purse--Front]
The coin purse will be the first article described. The size, pattern and
design must first be determined. It consists of three parts, the front,
back and flap, as shown in the sketch. This purse will require a piece
of leather 4 by 8 in., in order to allow an extra 1/4 in. outside of the
pattern to pin the leather on the board while transferring the design.
The upper flap C folds over the front of the purse D. The design must
be divided, the part belonging to C placed on the flap, and the part
belonging to the front D, on the lower part of the front.
[Illustration: Pattern for Purse]
Take a piece of paper and fold it in accordance with the desired
proportions of the purse, taking care that the design for the front D is
on the same side of the paper as that of the flap C. The space F under the
flap is without any design. The design for the front D is on the lower
part of the upper division of the pattern. Fold the part F behind H,
and then the part C behind H and F. Turn the pattern over for the proper
position of the purse. Draw the entire design on tracing or tough tissue
paper. Wet the leather on the wrong or unfinished side with a soft sponge.
Pat the leather and endeavor to moisten, but not soak it, with water.
On some leather the water, if it comes through, leaves a stain. When the
leather is too wet it is very hard to tool, as the tool sticks and makes
an uneven background.
Pin the design firmly down against the leather and fasten the leather
with thumb tacks on the outer margin. With a hard pencil go over every
line of the design with a firm, even pressure. If the leather is properly
moistened, this will leave a clear outline of the design when the tracing
paper is removed. Then with a lining tool--the tool with the narrow
edge--go over the lines on the leather with a strong, firm stroke. Should
a line design only be desired, this operation finishes the decoration.
[Illustration: Stamp-Case Pattern]
Two other methods may be used: tooling or stamping. The design shown does
not go to the edge of the pattern. A margin of at least 1/8 in. between
the edge of the pattern and design must be left for tooling and stamping.
For tooling, after lining the pattern, use the broad end of the tool and
make even, long strokes to press down the background. If the background
is not easily pressed down, the leather is too dry. Take it off the board
and moisten the back again, move the tool back and forth and around until
the background is comparatively smooth. Keep the edges very sharp between
parts pressed down and those that remain raised. The depth of pressing
down the background is a matter of taste, but it should be tooled down
enough to make the design stand out plainly. Fold the parts together
and line with silk to match the leather and then stitch up the front and
back parts of the purse close to the edge. This can be done on any sewing
machine, or by a shoemaker. The circle M in the pattern is the catch or
button which can be furnished and put on by a shoemaker, or at a trunk
store.
Any ordinary article of leather can be stitched on a sewing machine in
the home. To do this successfully the stitch must be long and the needle
of a large rather than a small size. Try the stitch on a scrap of leather
before sewing the article. If the foot or feed of the machine mars the
leather, place tissue paper or a plain piece of paper over the leather
and stitch through both. After making the stitch the paper can be pulled
away. Use as heavy a silk as the needle will take. The card case, coin
purse, stamp case and bags can all be stitched on an ordinary machine,
if the above directions are followed. In stitching any soft leather,
such as ooze cow or ooze calf, if paper is not put between the leather
and the machine, the stitching will stretch the leather. In making bags,
instead of stitching on a machine one can punch holes close together with
a small punch, and then with strips of leather sew the sides together
over and over, or in any manner desired. If no machine is at hand, nor a
shoemaker's shop nearby, a large pin or awl may be used to prick holes in
the leather, and then the parts sewed together with needle and silk. Use
a running or over-and-over stitch. An over-and-over stitch from one end
of the seam to the other and back to the beginning of the seam, makes an
X-shaped stitch which gives a very good finish.
The second method after tooling is stamping. Line the pattern as
described. Purchase a common carpenter's nail set, with the head not too
large. The smaller sets fit the patterns better and make smaller circles.
Moisten the leather as described. Use a wooden mallet to strike the tool
in stamping the background. This may be done either along circular lines
or in a more irregular manner, but avoid striking the tool too hard, as
too much pressure cuts through the leather. Other stamping tools of good
patterns may be purchased at hardware stores or crafts shops.
A needle book or stamp case is another handy article to make in leather.
The sketch shows the design. A piece of Russian calf, 6-1/4 by 3-3/4 in.,
is necessary. This allows 1/4 in. on each side and end for pinning down
the pattern. Fold a piece of paper into three parts as A, B and C, the
front being A; the back, B, which is folded underneath the part A. The
flap C folds up with B and then over A toward the front. When the pattern
is open, the design for all parts must be on the same side of the paper.
The design for the back B is put on the leather upside down. When the
pattern is folded this makes the design upright. The parts A, B and C are
equal in length and width. The part C may be cut in any shape desired, but
keep the tongue D long and narrow. Make two horizontal cuts in the front
A about 3/16 in. apart.
These cuts must be at the same distance from the bottom of the front as
the narrowest part of the tongue is from the end. The tongue will then
fit the cuts. Make the horizontal cuts a little wider than the tongue. The
design is put on the leather in the same manner. It can be worked out in
line, tooling or stamping. The parts A and B are sewed together.
[Illustration: A Mat]
The mat illustrated is another useful article and easy to make. Any size
may be used, and the method of lining or tooling the design, or both,
gives a very beautiful effect.
How to Make a Wood Lathe
A strong, substantial lathe in which wood and light metal articles may be
turned can be made by carefully following the description below and the
detailed drawings of the parts.
[Illustration: Detail of Wood Lathe (Fig. 1)]
The bed is made of two pieces of straight-grained, smooth, 2 by 4-in.
hard wood, 5 ft. long. They are held apart at each end by blocks of
wood 2 in. wide. The bed can, of course, be made longer or shorter if
desired, but the above dimensions are very satisfactory. The frame of the
headstock, Figs. 1 and 2, is made of hard wood. The two end pieces have
the dimensions and shape shown. These are fastened with screws to the
base.
[Illustration: (Fig. 2)]
The base has a slider, a strip of wood 1 in. thick and 10 in. long, wide
enough to slide smoothly between the bed pieces, nailed to its bottom,
2 in. from the rear end. Two 1/2-in. holes are bored through the baseboard
and slide. Two 1/2-in. bolts are run through these holes and through
another slide and board which runs on the under side of the bed.
When the nuts on these bolts are tightened, the headstock is firmly
clamped to the bed. A half-round, wedge-shaped piece is fastened with
screws in the frame against the front end, to serve as a brace against any
strain, and will also add to its appearance. The spindle is of tool steel
or steel tubing, 3/4 in. in diameter and 14 in. long. Threads are cut on
one end.
A hardened steel collar, 1/4 by 1-1/2 in., is riveted on the spindle so it
may turn against another collar of the same size on the headstock. Another
collar is fastened with screws to the rear end piece, and a collar with
a removable pin is fixed on the spindle. These should be fitted so as to
revolve easily against each other and yet have no end play. The bearings
are of brass tubing drilled for a spindle. These are inserted and wedged
in the headstock, 6 in. from the bed.
Care should be taken to see that they are in line. Small holes are drilled
from the top for oil. The pulleys are 2 in. wide with the diameters given
in the drawing. They are fastened to the spindle with a removable pin.
[Illustration: (Fig. 3)]
A good chuck for this lathe is made, as shown in Fig. 3, of a piece of
shafting 1-1/2 in. in diameter and 2-1/2 in. long. A 1/2-in. hole is
drilled through its center and one end reamed out and threaded to fit the
threads on the end of the spindle. A setscrew is fitted over the 1/2-in.
hole. A center for turning wood is also shown. Many centers, drills, etc.,
can be made of 1/2-in. tool steel.
[Illustration: (Fig. 4)]
[Illustration: (Fig. 5)]
The tailstock, Figs. 4 and 5, is built up of three pieces of hard wood,
2 in. thick, and one piece, 1 in. thick, shaped as shown. These are held
together with four bolts, 7-1/2 in. long. It has sliders and is clamped
to the bed in the same manner as the headstock, but only one bolt is used.
A handle is welded to the nut. This will make the clamping easy.
[Illustration: SECTION THROUGH Fig. 4 (Fig. 6)]
A piece of tubing, 2 in. long, is drilled for a 1/2-in. dead center and
inserted for 1-1/2 in. between the two upper pieces, as shown in Fig. 6. A
hole for a 1/2-in. bolt is bored through the sections so as to allow the
bolt to slide freely in the tubing. The top section is taken off and a
place chiseled out just back of the tube for a 1/2-in. nut. A bolt, 7 in.
long and threaded for 2 in. of its length, is turned into the nut and
tubing. A handle or wheel is riveted on the end of the bolt. The center
is made of tool steel, 1/2 in. in diameter, with a tapering point. Other
centers can be made of 1/2-in, tool steel.
[Illustration: (Fig. 7)]
The tool rest, Figs. 7, 8 and 9, has a slide, 3/4 by 3 by 13 in., with a
slot 1/2 by 6 in. The base of the rest is bolted on this slide so it can
be adjusted. The rest is fastened on this base with screws. The height of
the rest can be varied. It can be raised or lowered by inserting wedges
between the slide and the rest base. The tool rest is clamped to the base
the same as the tailstock.
[Illustration: (Fig. 8)]
The power for this lathe can be supplied by means of a countershaft,
although a foot-power arrangement may be attached.--Contributed by E. E.
Hulgan, Marion, Ind.
[Illustration: (Fig. 9)]
To Reduce the Gasoline Consumption of an Automobile
Quite recently I tried out a method of reducing the consumption of
gasoline in my automobile, and, as a result, have higher efficiency
without resorting to any of the numerous and exceedingly costly devices
on the market.
I procured a piece of wire screen, cut it in the shape of the gasket
between the carburetor and the intake manifold, but leaving it blind, that
is, with the screen across the inlet. I put this between two gaskets and
fastened the whole back in place. The result was an increase of 3 miles
per gallon of fuel.--Contributed by W. J. Weber, New York City.
Cutting a Tin Ball from a Child's Finger
A three-year-old child found a globe of tin with a hole cut through the
center, and--it is hardly necessary to state--immediately thrust his
finger into the hole. But he could not get it out again, and the mother,
accompanied by several other small children, brought the screaming child
to my office. I found the hole had been punched, which caused three
harpoon-like fragments to be carried into the center of the globe.
The mother in her attempt to remove it had caused the sharp points to
enter the flesh of the finger in two or three places. Any attempt to pull
the ball off, drove the points of the harpoons deeper into the finger,
and it was therefore a question of cutting the tin or the finger. But what
kind of an instrument could I use on this tin globe?
I had nothing in my case that would cut it. My 35 years of medical
experience gave me no help. The tin was as hard and smooth as a glass
marble. Yet, it would have been ridiculous to be thus conquered by a tin
whistle, so after some meditation I called to mind that I had a pair of
heavy tinner's snips in the basement. By using the utmost care I succeeded
in cutting a small incision in the round ball, and then with the points
of the shears I cut the metal away from the finger.
Such an accident may come under the observation of any parent, and if so,
he can use the same method to relieve the child where medical assistance
is not near at hand.--Contributed by R. W. Battles, M. D., Erie, Pa.
Child's Seat for Theaters
As children must hold tickets for theaters the same as adults, but the
ordinary chair is too low to permit a child to see the performance, an
auxiliary seat such as shown in the sketch would sometimes be desirable
as it elevates the child so its head will be on a level with those of
other spectators. The seat is made of a strip of canvas with eyelets for
wire hooks that fit over the arms of the ordinary theater chair. It is
necessary to have extra eyelets at one end of the canvas to adjust it to
varying widths of seats.--Contributed by W. A. Jaquythe, Richmond, Cal.
[Illustration: Seat in a Theater Chair]
Holding Spoon on a Hot Dish
After repeatedly burning my fingers in the attempt to prevent the spoon
from sliding into the hot dish, I decided to do a little inventing on my
own hook. Taking a clean, straight hairpin I bent it to the shape shown in
Fig. 1, and after hooking it over the edge of the dish, I placed the spoon
in it as shown in Fig. 2, and my troubles were at an end.--Contributed by
Miss Genevieve Warner, Kalamazoo, Mich.
[Illustration: Spoon Holder on a Dish (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)]
Locating Gas and Electric Fixtures in the Dark
A gas or electric fixture in the center of a room is quite hard to locate
in the dark; more so if it is a single-light pendant. The location may
be easily found if the fixture is marked as follows: Coat small pieces of
cardboard on both sides with phosphorus and suspend them from the fixtures
with small wires. No matter how dark the room may be, the phosphorus on
the cardboard can be readily seen. The phosphorus is the same as used
on matches and can be obtained from any druggist. The phosphorus, being
poisonous, should be handled as little as possible, and, after using,
should be returned to the water-filled jar in which it was received when
bought. If left in the open, it may cause fire.--Contributed by Katharine
D. Morse, Syracuse, N. Y.
A Pea-Shooting Gun
The gun consists of only two parts. The barrel may be either a piece of
bamboo fishing pole or a section of sweet alder. The spring is a piece of
corset steel, such as can be usually found about the home.
[Illustration: A Pea-Shooting Gun Made of a Piece of Alder and a Corset
String]
Sweet alder can be found in the summer growing along the fences in the
country almost anywhere. Find a stalk, about 1 in. in diameter, which is
good and straight, and cut it off to a length of 6 or 7 in. Make a ram
rod of wood and use it to punch out the pith of the alder, rendering the
bore as smooth as possible. An old bamboo pole of like dimensions may be
used instead.
Cut out a section of the wood, 2-1/2 in. long, beginning 1-1/2 in. from
one end of the tube. The depth of this cut should be almost halfway
through the piece. The corset steel is then inserted into the short end of
the tube and bent over so that its other end will touch the bottom of the
open part of the bore. A nick is made with a knife across the bottom of
the bore at this point, to let the spring catch a little. The ammunition
is placed before the caught end of the spring, as shown, and discharged by
hooking the forefinger over the spring at the point A and pulling backward
as when pulling the trigger of a gun.
It is necessary to keep the muzzle elevated a little after the ammunition
is placed in position, otherwise the pea will roll out before the spring
has a chance to strike it.
Coloring Electric-Light Globes
Often it is desired to produce certain effects in lighting which demand a
different-colored light than that given by the modern tungsten lamp. As an
example, a soft, mellow light is sometimes desired similar to that given
by the old carbon-filament lamp. In such cases it is a great mistake to
install the carbon lamps on account of their exceedingly poor efficiency.
The ordinary tungsten lamp has an average efficiency of about 1.2 watts
per candlepower, while the carbon-filament lamp requires about 3 watts
per candlepower. Therefore, it is much more economical to color the globe
of the tungsten lamp so as to produce the required color than to use the
carbon lamp. Of course, both lamps must be colored when any color other
than a soft, yellow light is desired.
A cheap coloring solution may be made as follows: Soak a small amount
of gelatin in cold water for several hours, then boil it and strain
it through a piece of fine cloth. While the solution is still hot,
add a small quantity of aniline dye of the desired color that has been
previously mixed in a small quantity of cold water. The lamps are dipped
in the solution and then allowed to cool in a vertical position so that
the coating will be more uniform.
A more satisfactory coloring solution may be made from celluloid. Obtain
quite a number of old photographic films and remove all the gelatin by
washing them in hot water. Then dissolve them in a solution of equal parts
of ether and alcohol. Add the coloring solution and dip the lamps. The
coating produced by this method is impervious to water.
Support for an Open Book
[Illustration]
When a book is laid on a table for reading the pages at the beginning
or end, it will not stay open flat on account of the difference in the
thickness of the open parts. One person, doing a great deal of reading,
uses a small card, with the corner cut out, which is placed under the side
of the book having the smallest number of leaves, as shown.
[Illustration: Some Conventional Designs for Cardcases]
Arts-Crafts Leather Work By Mary C. Scovel
Part II
When laying out designs for leather work, avoid making them too small and
intricate. Bold, simple designs are the best. The relation between the
shapes of the background and of the design should be well balanced. The
design should not be so small that the large background shapes overbalance
it. One good way is to let the design partly follow or repeat the contour
of the object. If the article be rectangular in shape, let some of the
lines of the design follow rectangular lines; and if circular, follow the
curves of the circle.
[Illustration: Pattern for a Cardcase]
The first piece of leather work considered, will be an artistic cardcase.
The foundation of a cardcase is a rectangle. Take a piece of paper 10 by
4-3/4 in. and fold it in the middle, making each side 5 in., then fold
in 2 in. on each outside edge toward the center. This last fold makes
the pocket of the case. If a deeper pocket is desired, a longer piece
of paper must be used, and the fold more than 2 in. Cut out the leather
according to the paper pattern and allow at least 1/4 in. for the margin.
This gives enough extra material for fastening the leather on a board
outside of the pattern. Moisten the leather on the rough or unfinished
side. Remember that, as previously stated, Russian calfskin is the best
for tooling. Place the folded paper on the right side of the leather, then
with a ruler, triangle and lining tool draw the vertical lines where the
paper is folded. If the leather is moistened enough, the tool will make
a deep line. Make these lines where the leather is to be folded in the
center, and for each pocket. Line all around the pattern on four sides
to indicate the outside border of the pattern. Note that there are four
vertical panels or rectangles, two wide ones and two narrow ones, as the
leather lies flat on the board. Select either of the wider rectangles for
the front of the cardcase. Transfer the design onto this side. Place the
paper on the moistened leather and go over all the lines of the design
with a hard pencil. When this is done, take the paper away and deepen the
lines of the design with the lining tool. If tooling is desired, use the
broad-end tool and press down the background with firm even strokes. Keep
the background and edges of the design sharp. If stamping is desired, make
rows of small circles, regular or irregular, by using the nail set and a
wood mallet. The inside or lining is made of skiver leather or silk. The
two center rectangles are the only parts lined. Cut out the piece of silk
or leather about 1/16 in. less at the top and bottom of the rectangles and
1/4 in. wider on each side. If leather is used, apply library paste on its
back, then place carefully on the inside, smooth it down firmly and put it
under a heavy weight to dry. If silk is used, apply the paste around the
edges for a width of about 1/4 in., and put it under the weight. The case
is then folded and sewed at top and bottom. Cut off the surplus leather
about 1/8 in. from the stitches.
[Illustration: Cover Designs for Cardcases]
[Illustration: Back of Magazine Cover ]
[Illustration: Silk Lining of Magazine Cover]
The next article is the useful magazine cover, which anyone should delight
in making. It requires a piece of leather 11 by 15 in. Allow enough margin
to fasten it to the board. Fold the narrow edges together. The design
can be placed on either side. A border design bounded by rectangular
lines is very suitable. The margin allowed around the design shown in the
illustration is 1 in. from the front edge, 1-1/2 in. from the top edge,
and 2-1/4 in. from the bottom edge. The design is 5-1/4 in. wide. It is
placed on the moistened leather and lined, tooled or stamped as described
for the cardcase. The inside of this cover is lined with heavy silk.
Allow a 1/4-in. margin to turn in on all four sides. Two strips made of
the lining material, 2-1/2 in. wide and 11 in. long, are placed 1-1/2 in.
from each side, over the lining on the inside. The lining, strips and
the leather are stitched together about 1/8 in. from the edge on all four
sides. The strips are to hold the magazine in place as the cover of the
book is slipped between the cover and the strip.
[Illustration: Stampcase]
Other kinds of leather, such as ooze cow and ooze calf, may be used, but
these only allow the method of cutting out the design, as shown in the
bag and stampcase. The design is traced on the wrong or smooth side of
the leather. Do not moisten the ooze leather. Fasten the leather firmly
on the board and cut out the design with a sharp knife. A soft silk is
best for the lining. Apply the paste on the leather near the edge of the
design and after laying the silk in place, put it under a weight to dry.
[Illustration: Handbags]
The stampcase and handbags are laid out, and the designs made in the same
manner as for the cardcase and magazine cover, but instead of stitching
the edges on the handbags, they are joined with thongs run through holes
cut in the edges of the leather. The stampcase edges are sewed together.
Bear in mind that Russian calf is used for tooling and stamping, and ooze
cow or calf for perforated designs.
Furnace Electrodes of Lead Pencils
Furnace electrodes frequently consist of carbon rods, and if there is a
short gap between them, forming a break in the circuit, the current jumps
across that gap, forming an "arc." The intense heat of the arc is used in
fusing and melting metals. As large electrodes are necessary for use in
furnaces where great masses of metal are melted, so small electrodes are
adapted to finer or more delicate work, says Popular Electricity.
[Illustration: Pencil Electrodes Which Furnish Intense Heat]
As the lead or graphite in a lead pencil is a form of carbon, it will make
an excellent electrode for small work. Two ordinary lead pencils, costing
only one cent each, may be used. They are first sharpened as if they were
to be used for the usual purpose of writing. Then a small notch is cut in
one side of each pencil, laying the lead bare at a point about 2 in. from
the sharpened end.
A small copper wire is wound around the pencil and into this notch,
thereby making contact with the exposed lead or graphite. By means of
these small wires the pencils are connected to larger wires, which in turn
are connected to a switchboard or source of electric-current supply.
At some place in the circuit there should be a resistance to prevent
short-circuiting and also to control the strength of the current. As
the wood sheath on the pencils offers sufficient insulation, they may
be picked up, one in either hand, and no electrical effect will be felt
by the person so doing. If the pointed tips are touched together, a fine
little arc, not much larger than the tips of the pencils, will be formed.
The temperature of this arc, however, is such that fine wires or small
quantities of metal may be melted readily.
These little lead-pencil arcs may be used to fuse very small gold or
silver wires, or platinum thermometers, or wires for tungsten or tantalum
lamps. The bead or globule of molten metal formed on the end of a fine
wire need be no longer than a small-sized grain of sand.
Coat and Trousers Hangers
The hanger is simple in construction and can be easily made by following
the dimensions given in the drawing, and the directions given below.
[Illustration: Details of Hangers]
The back is first marked off on a soft-pine board and cut out. The curved
edge should be rounded off so as to prevent injury to the coat. The two
end pieces are then made, and fastened to the back with screws as shown.
The wedge is ripped diagonally from stock and the smaller edge made
slightly round. The wedge slides in between the two end pieces, and after
the trousers have been put in place, is pushed down until it holds them
securely. The hanger is a screw hook turned into the wood, or it may be
made of a piece of heavy wire run through a hole in the back and bent
over on the bottom edge. The wood may be stained any desired color and
then given two coats of shellac.--Contributed by Olaf Tronnes, Wilmette,
Illinois.
Mending Broken Fountain-Pen Barrels
Broken fountain-pen barrels may be mended by the use of melted
shellac. This can be done by heating some dry shellac and applying it
to the fracture. Do not scrape off the surplus shellac, but shape it
with a heated iron. A pen with such a repair has been in use for two
years.--Contributed by G. D. Whitney, Pittsburg, Pa.
Jig-Saw Blades
The ordinary form of jig-saw blade has a tendency to pull the fiber of
the wood in one direction, thereby producing a jagged cut. To overcome
this I made several blades with teeth as shown in the sketch. After the
downstroke is completed, the teeth A will cut on the upstroke, the teeth
B cutting on the downstroke, etc. The upstroke teeth should be a trifle
longer than the others and from 4 to 6 in number.--Contributed by Phillip
Caflish, Buffalo, N. Y.
[Illustration: Teeth Cut in Opposite Direction]
Leaded-Glass Panels for Furniture
Certain kinds of furniture may be greatly improved in appearance by the
use of simple glazed panels in the door frames. It would be inappropriate
to have anything elaborate in a small cabinet for the reception of china
as it distracts the attention from the contents, but a simple leaded
diapering or pattern of small design, such as shown in Figs. 1 and 2,
would be quite in place and have a good effect. For other purposes more
elaborate effects can be worked out in deep shades, says Work, London.
[Illustration: Simple Leaded Diapering of Small Design for a Small China
Closet or Cabinet (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)]
A hanging cabinet with leaded panels is shown in Fig. 3. These panels for
the doors are in the design shown in Fig. 2. Panels of this design can
be used either for furniture or for small windows. The process of making
these panels is not difficult and the ordinary workman can form them, the
only difficult part being the soldering of the joints.
[Illustration: A Small Hanging Cabinet with Doors Having the Leaded-Glass
Design Shown in Fig. 2 (Fig. 3)]
The beginner should confine himself to plain glazing, the design being
formed by piecing together glass of different shades. The method of
procedure is to first make a small sketch in color to a scale of about
1 in. to the foot, carefully arranging the parts and colors. A full-sized
panel can be drawn from this sketch. The effect of plain glazing depends
entirely on the arrangement of the lead lines and the art glass. In the
full-sized drawing the shapes are arranged so that they may be easily
cut, all long forms being either avoided in the design, or divided by a
cross-lead to guard against breakage in the cutting.
[Illustration: Only a Part of the Top of Each Window is Highly Decorated
so That the Maximum Light may Gain Access (Fig. 4, Fig. 5, Fig. 6)]
Two simple forms of glazing are shown in Figs. 1 and 2. The one shown in
Fig. 4 is somewhat different, the top of the panel being decorated with
simple curves. This general design is considerably elaborated in Figs. 5,
6 and 7. It is desirable to decorate only a part of a window so that the
maximum of light may gain access.
[Illustration: Two Windows Placed Together May Have Their Tops Leaded to
Produce a Combined Effect (Fig. 7)]
Two simple treatments of a sailing craft are shown in Figs. 8 and 9. The
effect of the introduction of this design in one of the panels of a small
cabinet is shown in Fig. 1.
[Illustration: Two Designs for the Tops of Windows, Showing Treatments of
Sailing Craft (Fig. 8, Fig. 9)]
An example of plain glazing is shown in Fig. 10. This is a piece of simple
leading and yet very effective, involving no difficulty of construction.
[Illustration: Example of Plain Glazing with Cross Section of Glass and
Lead Strip, also Showing Joint (Fig. 10)]
For this lead glazing a quantity of strip lead, the section of which is
shown in Fig. 11, will be required. This can be purchased from dealers in
art-glass supplies. The lead is sold on spools and it must be straightened
before it can be worked. This is most easily done by fastening one end
and pulling on the other. The glass for this work must be reasonably
thin as no advantage is gained by the use of thick material, and it is
difficult to cut. A piece of art glass has a right and a wrong side, the
side on which the spots and streaks appear is the right side, and it is
cut on this side. The tools required are a glass cutter, a heavy knife
and soldering appliances.
[Illustration: (Fig. 11)]
Sketch out the lines of the design full size on paper, drawing in only
one side of a symmetrical pattern and tracing the other. After the design
has been prepared, the next step is to make a cutting pattern. To do
this, take a piece of tracing cloth and lay it on the drawing. Trace the
lines and go over them with a brush dipped in black, making the lines
exactly the same thickness as the core of the lead, or the thickness of
the distance the glasses are separated from one another, as shown in Fig.
11. Each division is marked for the color it is to be and the paper is
then cut into sections on each side of the broad line. These pieces form
the patterns for cutting similar shapes from heavy cardboard which serve
as templates for cutting the glass.
Proceed to cut the glass by laying a pattern on the right side and scoring
around with the cutter guided by the pattern. Little difficulty will
be experienced in this work if the general design does not have very
irregular shapes.
[Illustration: (Fig. 12)]
When the various pieces of glass have been successfully cut and are ready
for leading up, arrange them in position on the preliminary sketch, and
then measure the outside leads and cut one piece for each side, the lead
being cut to fit against the core of the other at the joint, as shown in
Figs. 12 and 13. Proceed to cut the lead for the long curves obtaining
the length by bending the strips along the lines of the design. As each
is cut it will be found convenient to tack it in position on the working
table by means of small brads, so as to simplify the measuring and cutting
of the other parts. Continue until the panel is complete, when, after
truing up, it is ready for soldering. This is done in the usual way but
requires extraordinary care to avoid the possibility of melting the lead.
The overlapping parts of the leads are pressed well against the glass in
each division to keep it from rattling.
[Illustration: The Lead Frame is First Made, the Long Lines are Put in
and Then the Short, Horizontal Ones (Fig. 13)]
In making up the squares and rectangles such as appear in Figs. 2, 4, 5,
6 and 7, lead the long lines first, adding the shorter, horizontal pieces
last. The sketch, Fig. 14, will clearly illustrate this part of the work.
The sketch shows the starting of the panel, Fig. 5.
[Illustration: (Fig. 14)]
Raising Cucumbers on a Trellis
A novelty in cucumber culture, tried recently with great success, is as
follows: As soon as the vines are about 18 in. long, stretch wire mesh
24 in. wide on poles alongside the row of plants and train the vines on
the wire. The cucumbers will grow larger and the plants will require less
care than when they are on the ground.
A Barrel Boat
A boat that any handy boy can easily make is constructed of a barrel which
is kept with the opening cut in one side up by two 4 by 6-in. timbers and
two tie pieces, 2 by 4 in. The lengths of these pieces will depend on the
size of the barrel.
A good watertight barrel should be selected and an opening cut in the
center between the hoops, of such a size as to allow the body of the
occupant room for handling an oar. The timbers are attached to the barrel
with iron straps--pieces of old hoops will do. The two tie pieces are put
across the timbers at the ends of the barrel and spiked in place.
[Illustration: Boat Made of a Barrel Which is Kept from Capsizing by
Timbers Attached]
The boat is to be propelled with a single, double-end paddle. There is no
danger of the boat capsizing or the water splashing into the barrel.
Homemade Wing Nuts
A handle taken from a worn-out faucet, drilled out and threaded for a
bolt, makes a good wing nut. A discarded gas-bracket key, cut off on the
line AA and with the part within the dotted lines filed out, then drilled
and threaded, also makes a good wing nut.
[Illustration: Wing Nuts Made of Discarded Parts Taken from a Faucet or
a Gas Bracket]
A Spool-and-Ball Puzzle
Procure an empty basting-thread spool and make a hole in its side, at A,
just large enough to receive a 1/4-in. steel ball. A piece of celluloid,
B, is wrapped around the flanges, as shown, and fastened with small brads.
An old negative film, well cleaned, is suitable for the celluloid. Be sure
to put the steel ball in before fastening the celluloid in place.
The difficulty of the puzzle is to get the ball into the
hole.--Contributed by R. C. Knox, Waycross, Ga.
[Illustration: The Steel Ball is Not So Easily Run Into the Hole as It
Appears]
To Start the Ink Flowing from a Drawing Pen
In order to keep the ink flowing readily from a drawing pen it must be
kept clean and not allowed to stand with the ink in the nibs. A good plan
is to have a small piece of velvet fastened to the drawing board or upon a
small block, conveniently located where the pen may be drawn across it as
in making a line. The tuft of the velvet will clean out the partly dried
ink between the nibs.--Contributed by H. L. Woodward, Washington, D. C.
A Pencil-Sharpener Stick
Do not discard the sandpaper stick or pencil sharpener used by a draftsman
just because all the abrasive sheets have been removed. Make use of it
indefinitely by fitting a wedge in one edge, as shown in the illustration,
to hold fresh sheets of sand or emery paper. The wedge should fit tightly
so that the ends of the abrasive sheet, when wound around the block, will
be held tightly. Worn sheets can thus be removed and new ones applied when
necessary.--Contributed by Chas. J. La Prelle, Flushing, L. I.
[Illustration: A Wedge Attachment for a Pencil-Sharpener Stick for
Changing the Sheets of Abrasive]
Splice for Round Belts
Sash cords or round belts are easily spliced with a coil spring, and for
belts this joint will run smooth and noiseless. The coil should be a close
fit on the belt, and after turning one end halfway into the spring, the
belt itself is twisted in the reverse direction as many times as there are
coils remaining in the spring, before the other end is turned into it to
meet the first.--Contributed by F. S. Cummings, Detroit, Michigan.
[Illustration: A Coil Spring Used for Splicing Sash Cords or Small Round
Belts]
* * * * *
When painting wireless instruments use black
asphaltum, as it has high insulating qualities.
[Illustration: The Main Ambition of a Boy Mechanic is to Own a Lathe]
Amateur Mechanic's Combination Lathe By Joe V. Romig
The thing most desired by a young mechanic is a lathe, but the cost of
these machines is usually too high to be considered by the average boy,
and consequently he is hampered in executing more difficult work. The
combination lathe shown in the illustration comes as near filling the
wants of most boy mechanics as could be wished, the attachments making
it more than a lathe so that various kinds of work other than turning
may be accomplished. The materials necessary are few, and, outside of a
few parts, it can be constructed by the average boy at home with ordinary
tools.
The material used for the construction of the frame consists of either
well seasoned oak or maple, 2-3/4 in. wide and 1-1/2 in. thick. These
timbers can be purchased surfaced on all sides, and they must be straight
and true to size. The lengths to cut the pieces are given on the general
drawing. The end standard at the headstock is cut to the full length so
that the upper end is used as a bearing for the headstock spindle. A vise
jaw, about 2-1/2 ft. long and of the same kind and dimension material
as the frame, is attached with screws made of bolts on the standard, at
the tailstock end of the lathe. The feet are made of two boards for each
standard, and are of the same material as the frame and 7/8 in. thick.
After cutting the pieces to the right length, making sure that the ends
are square, and boring the holes to receive the bolts snugly, they are
put together, the horizontal pieces for the ways and feet at perfect right
angles to the uprights. This will insure the parts running freely in the
finished machine. All bolts should be supplied with a washer under both
head and nut, and the nuts drawn up tightly.
The headstock extends 7 in. above the upper surface of the ways, thus
making a swing of 12 in. One of the standards of the headstock is the
extension of the lathe standard, as previously mentioned; the other
standard being cut 9-3/4 in. long and attached with bolts between the
ways in the same manner as the lathe standards are fastened. A block,
3 in. long, is fastened between these standards to aid in holding them
rigid. The bearings for the spindle, which is a piece of steel, 3/4 in. in
diameter and about 9 in. long, are made in the upper ends of the standards
in the following manner:
A 1-1/4 in. square is laid out on the upper end of each standard, with
its center exactly over the center for the shaft, and the wood is cut out
to make a square hole, which should be slightly tapering one way or the
other toward the center of the standard, to hold the babbitt metal used
for the bearing. A 3/8-in. hole is bored, vertically down from the upper
end of each standard and in the center, to meet the square hole. This is
used as a gate for pouring the melted metal in and later to make an oil
hole. Prepare 8 pieces of cardboard to hold the melted metal in the square
holes while it cools, by cutting them about 2 in. square and making a
hole in the center of each, 3/4 in. in diameter. Two of these pieces are
held between the two standards while the shaft is run through them and
the square holes. Paint the parts of the shaft used in the bearing with
thick white lead, or wrap it with one thickness of writing paper, then
line it up perfectly parallel with the ways in both directions and tack
the cardboard pieces to the standards. Place the remaining two cardboard
disks on the ends of the shaft and tack them to the standards also. Place
putty over all the edges and pour melted babbitt metal into the hole at
the top. When the metal is cool, remove the cardboard disks and turn the
shaft, first in one direction and then in the other, until it can be taken
from the bearings. A 1/8-in. hole is then drilled through the metal in
the top for an oil hole. The ends of the shaft should be threaded by a
machinist, and nuts fitted to it and faced up true. The threads should be
cut just long enough to allow the back of each nut to turn freely against
a washer placed on the shaft against the standard. A split or solid pulley
may be used, as desired, on the shaft between the standards. If a solid
pulley is used, it must be slipped on the shaft as the latter is run into
the bearings.
[Illustration: Detail of the Plain Lathe, Showing the Construction of
the Clamp Devices for the Tailstock and Rest Slide, and the Manner of
Attaching a Vise Jaw on the End of the Lathe Bed]
The pulley is fastened to the shaft with a pin run through a hole drilled
in them. If a small flywheel is attached to the outer end of the spindle
it will aid in keeping a steady motion.
The same procedure is carried out in the construction of the tailstock
bearings. The standards for this part are about 8 in. long and are bolted
at right angles to and between two pieces that rest on top of the ways.
The shaft is threaded full length, which should be done in a lathe by a
machinist to get a true thread, and the melted metal run on it to make an
internal thread in the bearing. A nut is run on the threads of the shaft
between the standards, and provided with a small handle for use in locking
the shaft when it is set on work between centers. A small handwheel is
attached to the back end of the shaft, into the rim of which a handle is
set to make the turning easy.
The faceplate consists of a disk of metal, 6 in. in diameter and 1/4 in.
thick, attached with 3/16-in. machine screws to a 3/4-in. nut. The disk is
drilled in various places to receive ordinary wood screws. The faceplate
should be made by a machinist so that the surface of the face can be
turned true. The spur center is made of a 3/4-in. nut, drilled in opposite
corners for 1/4-in. pins, 1-1/4 in. long.
[Illustration: Detail of the Various Attachments for Use in Connection
with the Lathe for Sawing, Planing and Sanding, and the Shape of the Tools
Used in Turning, Together with the Faceplate and Spur Construction]
The drive wheel for this lathe was taken from an old discarded washing
machine. Such a wheel is a very common part of various kinds of machinery
and usually one that will answer the purpose can be found in a junk pile.
One from 20 to 24 in. in diameter will be about right. A 1/2-in. bolt is
used for the shaft, which is run through the standard at the headstock
end of the lathe from the outside, the threads being previously cut long
enough to introduce a nut between the wheel and the standard for clamping
the bolt in place. The extending threaded end of the bolt is then supplied
with two nuts, one on each side of the wheel hub, and a short piece of
pipe is slipped on, to make a bearing over the threads. One of the spokes
is drilled and a pin inserted and fastened to receive the upper end of
the pitman from the treadle. The wheel is adjusted on the shaft with the
nuts on each side of the hub so that its face runs true with the pulley
on the headstock. The wheels are connected with a 1-in. leather belt.
The treadle consists of a frame built up of boards and swung in the
centers at both ends on 3/8-in. steel rods, for bearing pins, the bearings
being made of wood standards with 3/8-in. holes bored in them to receive
the pins. The pitman is made of wood, its length being determined by
measurement of the distance between the crank pin and the treadle-arm end
when both are at their lowest point.
The slide for the rest consists of a 1-in. square steel bar, about 10 in.
long, having a hole drilled in one end and threads cut with a 1/2-in. tap.
The rest used in this hole is made of a 1/2-in. rod, threaded on one end
and bent at right angles on the other. The clamping device for the slide
is made of two bars, 1 in. by 3/16 in., fastened to the square bar and
extending down between the ways with sufficient ends beneath to attach
a wooden clamp block and cam with a handle. This construction is clearly
shown in the drawing. If only a lathe is required, the machine would be
complete as now described, but the other attachments illustrated will
greatly add to its usefulness and the owner will be well repaid by making
them.
Attachments
One table is used for the circular saw, planer head, sander, and jig saw,
and it is attached on top of the headstock and tailstock standards with
bolts, run through the back edge of the board and the ends of two brackets
which are screwed to the back edge of the inner standards. Thumb nuts are
used on the bolts to aid in making the change quickly. More than one hole
is provided in the back edge of the board, so that the tailstock bracket
can occupy the right position for the sander or planer head, as the case
may be. The holes in the bracket ends should be somewhat larger than the
bolt, to allow tilting of the table. An adjusting screw is substituted for
the rest, so that the table can be raised or lowered to suit the work in
hand.
The circular saw is 5 in. in diameter and should have fine teeth. It is
placed on the spindle threads against the nut, and held there with another
nut and washer on the end of the spindle. The table is attached over the
saw, and the spindle is driven at a high speed.
The planer head is made of a wood block, 9 in. long and 2-3/4 in. square.
A 3/8-in. hole is bored through one way near each end, as shown in the
drawing, and two steel knives, with 1/2-in. holes coinciding with the
3/8-in. holes in the wood, are made and attached with their edges opposite
or projecting diagonally from the corners. The holes in the knives being
larger than the bolts, makes the knives adjustable for setting the cutting
edges. These knives may be made from an old saw blade, ground to size and
one edge beveled and sharpened. A brass plate, with holes to fit the spur
center, is fastened in the center of the block, on one end, and the other
is centered for the cup of the tailstock screw. The adjusting screw for
the table is used to regulate the cut.
The sander is constructed of a wood piece, 9 in. long and 3-3/8 in. in
diameter. A groove is cut in one side of the rounding surface to admit
the ends of the abrasive which may be fastened there with tacks.
An emery wheel can be used on the spindle in the same manner as the
circular saw. Procure a wheel, 5 in. in diameter with a 1/2-in. face and
having a lead center. The hole should be bored out and tapped to fit the
threads on the lathe spindle, and to have the grinding surface run true,
this work should be done in a lathe by a machinist.
The drawings show the construction of the jig-saw attachment. The standard
on which the arms are pivoted is made of a 1/2-in. bolt, threaded for its
entire length and with a groove cut in the head and nut to receive the arm
pivots. A locknut is used beneath the notched nut to hold the adjustment.
Two nuts and washers are used near the center of the bolt for clamping
the attachment to the table. The pivots are made of sheet metal, bent and
drilled as shown. The small projection at each end of the edge is raised
slightly by hammering the corner of the metal. These projections prevent
the arms from sliding sideways. The clamps for holding the ends of the
saw blades are easily made of thin sheet steel, or brass, with a 3/16-in.
bolt and washer at the end for the clamp. The tension of the blade is
secured by a piece of wire, an eyebolt and a thumb nut, connecting the
rear ends of the arms as shown. The frame is driven by the spur center.
The pins are removed from the center and a 1/4-in. pin is inserted in one
of the holes so that it will project 5/8 in. The pin runs in a slot cut
in a brass plate that is attached to the lower arm.
Very serviceable tools can be made of discarded files by grinding them to
shape on the emery wheel. Always use a fine whetstone to finish the edge
on a woodworking tool.
Hanging a Clothesline Taut
The line is equipped with rings, one at each end, used for convenience
in quickly hanging the line, which is then drawn taut with a lever. A
screwhook is fastened in one end post and at the other end a screwhook
is attached to a lever which is pivoted to the post. The lever should be
about 3 ft. long, 1 in. thick, 3 in. wide at one end, and 1-1/2 in. wide
at the other, or handle, end. A large wood screw is used to attach it to
the post. A pin is placed in the post to hold the lever when the line is
drawn taut.--Contributed by Warren E. Crane, Cleveland, Ohio.
[Illustration: A Lever Attached on One End Post Makes It Easy to Draw the
Line Taut]
A Double Latch for a Door
[Illustration]
This latch is suitable for outbuildings, small shops and sheds, as it can
be opened from both sides of the door and is easily applied. It consists
of a rod of suitable size which is bent in the shape shown in the sketch
after the rod is inserted through a hole bored near the edge of the door.
The spring of the metal will hold the catch in place.
Maulstick Used as a Ruler
Procure a cork having the same diameter as the knob on the maulstick and
make a hole in the center so that it will slide on the stick. This is very
handy for using the stick as a ruler, as it forms a sliding rest.
[Illustration: The Sliding Cork and Knob Raises the Stick so that It may
be Used as a Ruler]
Hinge with a Wide Swing
In constructing a box I needed a hinge that would carry the cover farther
away from the top than the ordinary double-leaf hinge. I found that two
pieces of 1/4 by 5/8-in. wrought iron, attached in the manner shown,
answered the purpose. By using round-head screws it was unnecessary to
countersink the metal.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
[Illustration: The Two Bars Provide a Way to Carry the Cover Away from
the Box]
A Detachable Clamp for Stairway Handrails
The sketch shows a handrail clamp, or holding device, which is detachable,
for use on stone stairways in the winter when there is ice or snow on
the steps. The clamps are made of 3/16-in strap iron, of any desired
width, conforming to the shape of the balustrade and provided with a
hook at either end. To the inside end of the band an upright is riveted
and to this upright is riveted an ordinary handrail holder to take the
handrail. A heavy thumb screw allows the clamp to be fastened firmly to
the balustrade at the outside. This is a simple and inexpensive device
which affords protection against falls.--Contributed by John De La Mater,
Chicago, Ill.
[Illustration: A Detachable Handrail for Use on Stone or Concrete
Stairways during Winter]
A Homemade Leather Punch
An empty bottle-neck rifle cartridge can be easily made into a leather
punch by grinding the edge of the opening sharp and cutting a hole near
the top in one side. The hole is for removing the leather slugs and should
be just a little larger in diameter than the inside diameter of the shell.
The cartridges can be had in various sizes and almost any size of punch
can be made.--Contributed by Merhyle F. Spotts, Shelby, Ohio.
A Wood-Scraper Handle
In using a plain scraper on the surface of wood the task grew exceedingly
tiresome and I lightened the tedious work to some extent by making a
handle for the scraper. The handle consisted of a piece of wood, 1 in.
thick, 3 in. wide, and 6 in. long. A cut was made in the edge of the
wood the width of the scraper blade and about 3 in. deep, and a bolt run
through a hole bored centrally in the side, about 2-1/2 in. from the lower
edge. The blade was clamped in place with the bolt.--Contributed by J. D.
Keiley, Yonkers, New York.
[Illustration: A Handle Attached to a Plain Scraper Blade Makes the Work
Much Easier]
Polishing Gunstocks
The fine polish applied to gunstocks and wood parts of tools will not wear
well, and if one cares for a fine finish, a much better and more durable
polish can be applied as follows: Soak the wood in linseed oil for a week
and then rub the surface with an oil-soaked cloth for a short time every
day, for a couple of weeks.
A Prick-Punch Center Gauge
A simple instrument for finding and marking the center of shafting, etc.,
can be easily made of three pieces of sheet brass and a small prick punch.
[Illustration: The Point of the Punch is Quickly Adjusted to the Center
of the Work]
Take two pieces of stiff sheet brass, 2-1/2 by 3 in. in size, and cut
two corners, 1/2 in. square, out at one end of each piece as shown in
the sketch. Bend the metal on the dotted line A, until it stands at an
angle of 45 deg. The part B should be bent up in the same direction, but
at right angles to the plate, while the part C should be bent out only
slightly. A hole should be drilled near each corner for rivets. Be sure
that the two plates are bent in opposite directions, then rivet them
firmly together.
Roll one end of a strip of sheet brass, 7/16 in. wide and 2-3/4 in. long,
into a tube large enough to firmly hold a small steel prick punch. Place
the opposite end of the brass strip in between the two ends C. These
ends should spring together slightly in order to hold the punch D at any
height it may be placed. If accurately made, the point of the punch will
be exactly in the center of the V-shaped trough.
In use, to find and mark the center of a round bar, it is placed in
the trough with the end just touching the point of the punch. The brass
holding the punch is raised between the parts C until the point of the
punch is brought as near to the center of the shaft as can be judged.
Press the point of the punch against the end of the shaft and turn the
latter in the trough. If the punch marks a circle the center has not been
found. This is corrected by slowly moving the punch up or down until the
point ceases to make a circle, then the punch is tapped with a hammer to
mark the exact center.
A Whirligig Clapper
A good noise maker for Halloween or any other occasion, can be made by
carefully following the directions here given. The box is the first thing
to make. It is constructed of wood pieces, 1/2 in. thick, and consists of
two ends and two sides. The ends are each 1-1/2 in. square and the sides
1-1/2 in. wide and 6 in. long. These parts are nailed together with the
ends lapping the sides.
The ratchet wheel A is a disk of hard wood, 1-1/2 in. in diameter. Its rim
is divided into eight equal parts, and notched with a knife as shown. It
is placed in the forward end of the box on a wood axle of 3/8-in. diameter
to which it is glued. One end of this axle is squared and projects 1 in.
beyond the side of the box. The squared end passes through a square hole
in the end of the crank C, which is a piece of wood 3/4 in. thick, 1 in.
wide and 4 in. long, and is fastened with brads and glue. At the other
end of the crank, a similar hole connects with a handle whittled to the
shape shown at B.
[Illustration: Detail of the Parts and How They are Assembled to Make the
Clapper]
A flat piece of steel spring, 1/2 in. wide and long enough to reach from
the rear end of the box to the teeth of the ratchet wheel, is shaped as
shown at D. The spring may be made from a stiff piece of corset steel
or bicycle trousers guard. The spring is fastened with a nail through
the end and box sides and a second nail passes through the sides over
the spring, about 2 in. forward from the first nail. This is to give the
spring tension on the teeth.
To operate the clapper, it is allowed to hang straight down, while the
right hand grasps the handle and whirls the box in a circle around to the
left.--Contributed by C. C. Fraser.
Box Partitions
As I needed a box with a number of narrow partitions and it was impossible
to cut grooves for the sections without removing the bottom, I spaced off
the places for the partitions with pieces of thin wood and fastened these
in place with small nails clinched on the outside of the box. This method
was much more rapid and satisfactory than sawing the grooves and cutting
them out with a wood chisel.--Contributed by James M. Kane.
[Illustration: Grooves for the Partitions Made with the Use of Small, Thin
Strips of Wood]
Safety Catch for a Flour Bin
A flour bin, counterbalanced to swing closed at all times, is liable to
catch the arm of the one taking out flour. To make it safe, I applied
the device shown in the sketch. The bin, at rest, is shown in Fig. 1. The
safety catch consists of a stick of wood, A, notched at one end, and is
pivoted at B on a small bolt. Two stops, C and D, are located on the side
of the box to prevent the catch from being thrown out of position when
the bin is quickly pulled out. These stops are nails driven into the box
side. When the bin is pulled out the catch takes the position shown in
Fig. 2. The catch stick should be a little shorter than the distance the
bin is pulled out, so that it may be raised to release the bin for its
return.--Contributed by O. F. Fouche, Erie, Pa.
[Illustration: Automatically Operated Catch to Hold a Flour Bin Out While
Taking Flour from It (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)]
A Homemade Whistle
Procure two empty No. 30 gauge brass cartridge shells. Cut one shell
3/8 in. shorter than the other, then flatten and bend them as shown in
the sketch. The mouthpiece should be at an angle of 60 deg. File a slot,
3/16 in. in width, about 1/2 in. from the end. File off the flange on the
shorter shell so that it will fit snugly against the side of the other and
solder them together. A ring may be soldered on the end of the long shell
to fasten it on a chain or string. To give the whistle a shrill sound
place a large shot in each shell before flattening them.--Contributed by
Peter Veneman, Paterson, New Jersey.
[Illustration: The Tapering End of a Cartridge Shell is Flattened and Bent
to Make a Whistle]
How to Emboss Stationery
A person's monogram or any special lettering embossed on stationery
is quite expensive. The engraving of the dies by experts commanding
high salaries, and the subsequent presswork necessary to give relief
to the design upon the paper cause an expense which the economical
person hesitates to accept, much as the refinement and individuality
of the embossed work may be admired. But there is a way by which almost
anyone may emboss stationery at home with one's own design at no expense
whatever. The work is easy and the results pleasing, and monograms or
lettering thus done will compare very favorably with the printer's work,
especially if there is a good design to follow and the work is done with
care. A little artistic ability will, of course, aid one in preparing a
design, but is not essential, for the letters required may be cut from
printed matter and used as a guide for tracing. There is no limit to the
varieties of work possible by this process. Single letters, monograms,
words or designs are suitable for reproduction in raised characters.
All the materials required for embossing the stationery are the envelope
or paper on which the design is to appear, a stylus and a blotter. The
paper should be of fair quality. If it is too thin the stylus point is
likely to push through it. The linen-finished papers of medium weight and
tough texture give excellent results, although almost any grade of good
writing paper can be used successfully. As embossing by this process can
be done well only through one thickness of paper, in working on envelopes
it is best to put the design on the central portion of the flap, or turn
it up and make the design in the left-hand corner of the envelope.
The stylus may be any kind of a pencil-like instrument, easy to grip
between the fingers, with a hard, smooth point, rounded slightly so
that it will not cut the paper. The ordinary bone stiletto, used in
embroidering, makes an ideal tool for this purpose. If this is not to be
had, a substitute is easily whittled from a piece of hard wood. Even a
wire nail, with its point smoothed with a file, may be used, the upper
portion being wound with string to afford a better grip.
The blotter should be white, perfectly clean, and of good weight. A
thin, hard blotter will not produce a good raised letter as a softer one
will. When the surface of a blotter has become covered with creases from
repeated use, it should be discarded and a new one substituted.
[Illustration: Manner of Holding the Stylus When Tracing the Design on
the Back Side of the Paper]