THE BOY MECHANIC
BOOK 2
[Illustration: FOUR-PASSENGER COASTING BOBSLED See Page 24]
THE
BOY MECHANIC
BOOK 2
1000 THINGS FOR BOYS TO DO
HOW TO CONSTRUCT
DEVICES FOR WINTER SPORTS, MOTION-PICTURE CAMERA, INDOOR
GAMES, REED FURNITURE, ELECTRICAL NOVELTIES,
BOATS, FISHING RODS, CAMPS AND CAMP
APPLIANCES, KITES AND GLIDERS,
PUSHMOBILES, ROLLER
COASTER, FERRIS
WHEEL
AND
HUNDREDS OF OTHER THINGS WHICH DELIGHT EVERY BOY
WITH 995 ILLUSTRATIONS
COPYRIGHTED, 1915, BY H. H. WINDSOR
CHICAGO
POPULAR MECHANICS CO.
PUBLISHERS
* * * * *
Transcriber's Note:
This etext differs from the original as follows. Two minor typographical
errors were found and corrected. In the chapters on making fly-fishing
rods (pages 59-71), several lists of materials or dimensions that were
printed as running text have been reformatted as lists for clarity. The
text is unchanged.
* * * * *
[Illustration: After the First Station has been Selected, It is Marked by
a Pile of Stones, a Stake, or, If Precise Work is to be Done, a Tack in
the Top of a Stake. The Table is Then Set Up over This Station Point and
Leveled So That the Surface of the Paper will Be Truly Horizontal
(Inset: UNCLE JOHN'S FARM Scale 1/16" = 1' Jimmy Smith--Surveyor) ]
[Illustration: The Boy Surveyor]
Plane-Table Surveying By Harold G. McGee
[In the training of a boy for a trade or profession there is
none so profitable for outdoor work as that of a surveyor. This
article sets forth how to accomplish surveying and the making of
simple maps with the use of commonplace tools that any boy can
make.--Editor.]
Surveying and map making have always been two of the most interesting
things a civil engineer has had to do. And, like George Washington, many
of the men we look up to today as successes in different lines worked as
surveyors in their younger days. Surveying takes one out of doors, and is
apt to lead him into the unknown and unexplored byways of the earth.
Though modern surveyors often use precise and expensive instruments,
creditable surveys can be made with simple and inexpensive apparatus. Of
such apparatus, two of the simplest are the plane table and the camera.
Since one must know the principles of plane-table surveying before he
can do camera surveying, this paper will describe the plane table alone,
leaving the camera for another chapter.
A plane table is simply a drawing board mounted on a tripod so that it can
be set up and worked upon in the field. One kind of plane table, which is
used in the army for reconnaissance, does not even have a tripod; it is
simply strapped to the arm of the man who is using it.
Plane-table maps vary greatly in scale and the area they represent.
Landscape artists' plans may show only single city lots, while some
topographic maps cover hundreds of square miles on a single sheet. For
maps of a small farm, a park, or a residence block in the city, a plane
table is almost ideal, since plane-table maps are made with rather simple
apparatus and do not require much actual measuring on the ground. Most
objects are located without ever going to them, or even sending a rod-man
to them.
[Illustration: Just a Few Weeks After George Washington's Sixteenth
Birthday, in 1748, Lord Fairfax, Owner of a Large Estate in Virginia, Took
Him into His Employ as a Surveyor]
Besides the plane table itself and a sheet of paper, only a small
carpenter's level, a tape to measure a few distances with, and some spikes
for markers, a hard lead pencil, a ruler, and a few needles are absolutely
necessary for this sort of a map.
[Illustration: Three Stations are Used for Setting the Plane Table in
Succession to Locate the Various Objects
TABLE AT STA. A - TABLE AT STA. B - TABLE AT STA. C ]
To start a plane-table map, a station must first be selected from which as
many as possible of the objects to be located on the finished map can be
seen. Ordinarily, the objects one would locate are corners of buildings,
fence corners, intersections of roads, corners of lots, banks of streams,
possibly trees, and section and quarter-section corners in the country.
A railroad, a lake, a mountain, or anything which forms a noticeable
landmark in any particular locality, ought to be on the map. In mapping
a territory which has never been surveyed before, the first surveyor may
name the hills and streams.
After the first station has been selected, it is marked by a pile of
stones, a stake, or, if precise work is to be done, a tack in the top of
a stake. The table is then set up over this station point and leveled so
that the surface of the paper will be truly horizontal. Generally, too,
the board is "oriented," that is, placed so that two of its edges point
north and south and two east and west. It is then clamped so that it will
not move while working on it.
To begin the map, a point on the table is chosen to represent the station
on the ground over which the table is set. This point is marked by
sticking a fine needle into the paper, vertically. A small triangle should
be drawn around the needle hole in the paper and labeled "Sta. A," so
that it will not be lost in the maze of points which will soon cover the
sheet. By sighting past this needle toward some object which is wanted
on the map, like the corner of a house, its direction can be marked by
setting another needle on the far side of the table, in line with the
first and the given object. Then, if a ruler or straightedge be placed
against these two needles and a fine line drawn connecting them, this line
will show the exact direction of the object from Sta. A. All the other
objects which are wanted on the finished map and can be seen from Sta. A
are located by direction in the same way.
The first points to have their direction thus marked ought to be the
next stations to be occupied. If all the objects to be located can be
seen from three stations, or even two of three stations, three stations
will be sufficient. The distance to one of them from Sta. A should be
carefully measured and laid off to scale along its direction line on the
map. Its place on the map should be marked exactly as the first station
was, substituting B for A. It is wise, after every few sights at other
objects, to take a sight along the line AB to make sure that the board
has not turned. A good map is impossible if the board twists.
To measure the distance between stations, a 50 or 100-ft. tape, or some
accurate substitute, is necessary. An ordinary piece of iron telegraph
wire, 105 ft. long, is a good substitute. A point, about 2-1/2 ft. from
one end, is marked with a little lump of solder. A chisel dent in this
solder will mark one end of the 100-ft. section. Then, with a borrowed
tape or a good rule, measure off and mark every 10 ft., just as the first
point was marked, until the entire 100 ft. have been laid off. The last
10 ft. should be divided into feet. In all this measuring and marking,
the wire must be stretched out taut and straight. The extra 2-1/2 ft. at
each end are used for making handles. By estimating the tenths of a foot,
measurements can be made with such a tape, or "chain," as an old-time
surveyor might call it, just as accurately as they can be laid off on the
map.
[Illustration: An Alidade, Consisting of Two Sights and a Straightedge,
Takes the Place of the Two Needles]
[Illustration]
Two men are required for measuring, or "chaining," a head and a rear
chainman. The rear chainman holds the 100-ft. end of the tape on the
station point, while the head chainman takes his end forward toward the
station to which they are measuring. When he has gone nearly the length
of the tape, the rear chainman calls "halt." The head chainman stops and
draws the tape up tight, while the rear chainman holds his division end on
the starting point. Then the head chainman sticks a spike into the ground
to mark the place where his division end comes, calls out "stuck," and
starts on toward the object point.
Large spikes make good marking pins, especially if they have little red
or white strips of cloth tied to them. Surveyors use 11 markers. One is
stuck into the ground at the starting point and is carried forward by the
rear chainman, who also picks up the markers at each 100-ft. point as soon
as the head chainman calls "stuck." In this way, the number of markers
which the rear chainman has in his hand is always the same as the number
of hundreds of feet which the last set marker is from the starting point.
In measuring between two points, care must be taken to draw the tape out
taut and straight, its two ends must be level with each other, and it must
be exactly in line with the two points between which the measurement is
being made. In measuring downhill, one end may have to be held up high,
and the point on the ground where the end division would come, found by
dropping a stone from the place where it is in the air and watching for
the spot where the rock strikes the ground. A surer way to do this is to
hold a plumb-bob string on the last division and carefully let the bob
down until it touches the ground. A rod with a red or white flag on it
ought to be placed at or just beyond the point to which the measurement is
to be made so that the rear chainman can easily line in the head chainman.
The latter, before he places his marker, looks back to the rear chainman
to be told whether or not he is "on line" with the object point. If he is
not, and ought to go to the rear chainman's right to get "on," the latter
holds out his right arm and the head chainman moves accordingly. When he
reaches the right point, the rear chainman signals "all right" by holding
out both of his arms and then dropping them to his side; the marker is
stuck, and both move up a hundred feet and repeat the process.
After all the points possible have been located from Sta. A, and
the direction lines labeled lightly in pencil so that they can be
distinguished when the board has been removed from the station, the
plane table is picked up and carried to Sta. B. Here it is again set up,
leveled, and oriented by making the direction of the line AB on the paper
exactly the same as that of the line from Sta. A to Sta. B on the ground.
This is done by placing needles at points A and B on the table and then
turning the board until the two needles and Sta. A are in line. Sights
are taken on the same objects which were "shot" at Sta. A, and to objects
which were not visible from Sta. A. The intersection of the lines of sight
toward a given object from A and from B marks the location on the paper
of that object. If the two ends of a straight fence have been located in
this way, a straight line joining the points will show the location of
the fence on the map. By exactly similar methods, every other object is
located on the paper.
In order to avoid errors, it is an excellent scheme to locate three
stations near the outside edges of the area to be mapped, and locate all
objects possible by sights from each of the three stations. If, instead
of all three crossing each other at a point, the lines of sight from the
three stations form a triangle, something is wrong. If the triangle is
very small, it may be safe to use its center as the correct point; if not,
the work must be repeated and checked. Locating even a few points by this
method may prevent some bad blunders. The three stations ought to form
as nearly as possible, an equilateral triangle; and the distances between
all of them should be measured and laid out accurately on the plane table.
[Illustration: A Rigid Tripod is Made of Strips for Legs, Which are
Fastened to a Large Top]
There are two ways in which the map may be finished, inked, or traced.
By drawing in the "culture," that is, the things built by man, like
the houses, the fences, the roads, and the railroads, in black ink; the
topography, that is, the hills and valleys, in brown; the water, in blue,
and then erasing all the construction lines, a very neat map can be made.
Another way is to get some "onion-skin" paper, or some tracing cloth, tack
it over the penciled map, and trace the lines right through, using black
India ink. This tracing can be blueprinted, just as a photographic film.
A plain, neat title, describing location of map; who made it and when; the
scale used; why it was made, if it was made for a special purpose, and the
direction of the north point, ought to be on every map. The topographic
sheets published by the United States Geological Survey are good samples
to follow. They have been published for a great many places all over the
country, and single copies can be obtained by sending 10 cents to the
Director, United States Geological Survey, Washington, D. C.
[Illustration: From an Original Drawing of a Survey of Mount Vernon, Made
by George Washington at the Age of 14]
Plane tables are almost as easily made as they are bought. If there is no
old drawing board around the house, a new bread board from the ten-cent
store will serve. For ordinary work, a table which is 15 or 20 in.
square will do very well. The board must be mounted on a tripod so that
it will be rigid while it is being worked upon and yet can be unclamped
and oriented. A brass plate, with a hole in it and a nut soldered over
the hole, screwed to the bottom of the board will permit the board and
tripod to be bolted together in good shape. Another method, which is not
nearly as good, is to drill a hole clear through the board, countersink
it on top for a bolt head, and bolt the board and tripod head directly
together. With the brass plate and nut, the camera tripod can be pressed
into service if a nut of the proper size has been used. The camera tripod
is, however, apt to be wabbly with a drawing board on top; a much more
satisfactory tripod can be built as shown in the accompanying drawings.
Each leg is made of two strips of wood, 3/4 by 3/8 in. and 3 ft. long.
These strips are screwed together at their lower ends, gripping a spike
between them which will prevent the legs from slipping on the ground. The
tops of the strips are spread apart and screwed to the opposite ends of
an oak or maple cleat. This cleat is, in turn, screwed to the under side
of the circular tripod head.
In place of the two needles and the ruler described for marking the line
of sight, most plane-table men use an alidade, which is a combination
of two sights and a straightedge. A very simple alidade may be made by
mounting two needles on a ruler. The straight edge of the ruler is placed
against the needle which marks the station at which the plane table is
set up. Then, by swinging the ruler around this needle until its two
sighting needles come in line with some object, the line of sight can be
drawn directly on the paper along the edge of the ruler. A surveyor in
India once made an alidade out of a piece of straightedge and two sights
made of native coins hammered out by a native blacksmith. Two pieces of
cigar box, one with a fine vertical saw slit in it, and the other with a
vertical slot and a piece of fine wire or silk thread stretched down the
center, glued to a well planed, straight, flat piece of wood, make a fine
alidade. A careful worker may be able to put his sights on hinges so that
they will fold down when not in use.
More than anything else, map making rewards care and accuracy, and shows
up slipshod workmanship. If the pencils are sharp, the lines fine, and
if the work is checked often, beautiful maps can be made with very simple
apparatus.
* * * * *
White marks on waxed surfaces may be removed by
rubbing lightly with a soft rag moistened in alcohol,
after which rub with raw linseed oil.
Machine for Sketching Pictures
An ordinary drawing board, with the attachments shown, provides an easy
way to sketch pictures, even if one is not proficient in this line of
work. It is only necessary to look through the sight and move the pencil
about so that the knot in the thread follows the outline of the landscape
or object being drawn.
[Illustration: This Machine Aids a Person in Drawing the True Outline of
a Picture]
The size of the machine depends on the one building it, but a fair-sized
drawing board is sufficient for the beginner. A strip of wood is fastened
to the board, near one edge, which has a metal piece on each end, fastened
to the under side and bent up over the end to form an extension for the
rod to support the moving parts. The strip of wood should be 3/4 in. wide
and 1/4 in. thick, and the sliding arm, holding the pencil, 1/2 in. wide
and 1/4 in. thick. A like strip, but much shorter than the one fastened
to the board, is also fitted with metal pieces in an inverted position
so the projections will be downward. A 3/16-in. rod is run through holes
in the metal pieces of the strips at both ends, and soldered to those on
the strip fastened to the board. This will make a hinged joint, as well
as one that will allow the upper strip to slide horizontally.
Centrally located on the upper strip are two more strips, fastened with
screws at right angles to the former, with a space between them of 1/2 in.
for the sliding center piece holding the pencil. These pieces are further
braced with a wire at the back, and crosspieces are screwed both on top
and under side, to make a rigid guide for the sliding pencil holder. An
upright is fastened to the side of one of these pieces over the center of
the upper horizontal sliding piece for a screw eye to hold the thread.
Another screw eye is turned into the crosspiece just under the one on
the support, so that the thread will run perpendicularly between them.
Two more screw eyes are fastened, one into the upper surface of the
rear crosspiece, and the other in the end of the pencil holder, near the
pencil. By connecting these screw eyes, as shown, with a thread, having
a rubber band fastened in the rear end and a knot tied in it near the
screw eye in the upper end of the vertical stick, a means for following
the outlines of the picture is provided.
A vertical stick is fastened to the front edge of the board by means of
a notch and wedge. In the upper end of this stick a very small hole is
bored for a sight, similar to a peep sight on a rifle.
To use the machine, set the board on a table, or tripod, and level it up
in front of the object to be drawn. Look through the sight at the front
of the board and move the pencil about to keep the knot of the thread on
the outlines of the picture to be drawn.--Contributed by Wm. C. Coppess,
Union City, Ind.
* * * * *
A walnut filler is made of 3 lb. burnt Turkey umber,
1 lb. of burnt Italian sienna, both ground in oil,
then mixed to a paste with 1 qt. of turpentine and 1
pt. of japan drier.
[Illustration: THE BOY SURVEYOR]
Camera Surveying By Harold G. McGee
[This article explains the preparation of the camera for
taking the pictures at each of the three stations, after which the
plates are developed, printed and kept until a convenient time may
be had for plotting the ground. The succeeding article will give
in detail the making of the map from the photographs.--Editor.]
Camera surveying is simply plane-table surveying in which the landscape
has been photographically picked up and carried indoors. It has the
enormous advantage that one can obtain a record of the utmost fidelity in
a small fraction of the time taken to do the field work of even a sketchy
plane-table survey, and that plotting can be done in the comfort and with
the conveniences of a drafting room. When the hours one can work are short
or the periods of clear, dry weather are few and far between, a camera is
an ideal surveying instrument. It sees and records with the click of the
shutter.
Surveying by camera was proposed early in the infant days of photography;
but not until the eighties were photographic surveys commenced in earnest.
With the extensive surveys of the Canadian Rockies by the Canadian
government within the past decade and the topographic surveys of the Alps,
the camera has very recently indeed achieved the dignity of being known as
a "sure-enough" surveying instrument. Even today, few surveyors have ever
used photography for making surveys, even though for mountain topography
or any survey which includes a large number of distinctive, inaccessible
landmarks, the camera asks no odds of either the plane table or the stadia
transit.
A camera survey taken of the summer cottage or the camping ground will be
a source of great delight while it is being plotted up of winter evenings.
There is something weird in watching each tent and dock slip into its
place with naught but a pair of dividers and a few pictures to do the
trick. And when the map is done, there are all the data to tell just where
a tennis court can go or a walk ought to be built.
In making surveys, a plate camera will do more accurate work than will
a film camera; and a fixed focus is a big help in plotting. In spite of
the special and expensive instruments which have been designed solely for
surveying work, a little ingenuity on the part of the owner of most any
kind of a camera, be it big or little, film or plate, box or folding, will
do wonders toward producing good results.
[Illustration: A T-Shaped Level with Adjusting Nuts is Located on the
Camera Box, or on the Bed of the Folding Camera]
To be used for surveying, a camera must be fitted with a spirit level and
some arrangement for cross hairs. A T-shaped level on the bed or the box,
carefully adjusted, will show when the plate is vertical and when the
perpendicular line from the center of the plate to the center of the lens
is horizontal. Actual cross hairs in the camera are not as good as four
tiny points of V's, one projecting from the middle of each side, top, and
bottom of the camera box, just in front of the plate holder. How the level
is to be adjusted so that a line between the upper and lower points will
be truly vertical, and one through the die-side points truly horizontal
and on a level with the center of the lens when the bubbles are in the
center of the spirit level, will be described later.
[Illustration: To Prepare a Camera for Surveying, It is Necessary to
Arrange That the Axial Center Line through Lens to the Plate Shall be
Level
(Inset: The Camera is Set Up, Complete with Thread or Pencil-Line Cross
Hairs and Level, Then Focused on a Stake so That Its Top will Just Come to
the Horizontal Cross Hair at the Center of the Plate When the Level Tube
Parallel with the Center Line of Lens Reads Level) ]
Camera Preparation
To prepare a camera for surveying, it is necessary to arrange that the
axial center line through the lens to the plate shall be level, and
that the location of the horizontal and vertical center lines shall be
indicated on the plate. A spirit level is the best solution of the first
problem, and indicated center points of the second.
The spirit level preferably may be of the T-form, with two level tubes,
or of the "universal" circular form, with which some hand cameras are
equipped. However, ordinary hand-camera levels are generally too rough
and difficult of adjustment to insure accurate work. On a view camera, the
level may be conveniently located on the bed which carries the lens board.
If it is screwed to the under side of the arms it will be convenient for
use and out of the way. The bed is likewise a good location for the level
on a folding hand camera, while the top of the box is about the only
possible location with a box-type instrument.
The cross hairs or center-line indicators should be placed on the back
of the camera, just in front of the plate. If indicators are used,
fine-thread cross hairs or pencil lines drawn on the ground glass must be
used temporarily for making adjustments. Generally, the two cross hairs
will divide the plate vertically and horizontally into four equal parts
and the hairs or indicators will join the center point of the sides and
top and bottom of the opening immediately in front of the plate. But
it is essential that the cross hairs have their intersection in a line
perpendicular to the plate and passing through the center of the lens.
Thus in a camera in which the lens is not placed in the center of the
plate, or in which the rising and sliding front has placed the lens off
center, either or both of the cross hairs may be off center with regard
to the plate.
[Illustration: The Ordinary Round Level may be Used, but It Is Not so Good
as the T-Level]
After the cross-hair indicators and the level have been attached to the
camera, adjustments are necessary. Surveyors distinguish between permanent
and temporary adjustments, permanent adjustments being those for which
the instrument maker is responsible, and temporary adjustments being those
which can be and are made in the field. The principal permanent or maker's
adjustments of the surveying camera are those which insure the center
line through the lens, or axial center line, or line of collimation, being
perpendicular to the plate, the intersection of the cross hairs being on
this line, and that the cross hairs themselves are mutually perpendicular.
Temporary or field adjustments must be so made that one tube of the spirit
level shall be parallel with the axial center line through the lens and
the other parallel with the horizontal cross hair.
[Illustration: The Cross Hairs or Center-Line Indicators should be Placed
on the Back of the Camera]
The first field adjustment is made in the following manner. The camera
is set up, complete with thread or pencil-line cross hairs and level, and
focused on a stake whose top shall just come to the horizontal cross hair
at the center of the plate, when the level tube parallel with the center
line of the lens reads level. This stake may be driven to the required
elevation or a rod may be held on it and the point where, in the image
on the ground glass, it is intersected by the cross hair marked with
pencil on the rod as it is held vertically on the stake. The distance to
this stake is measured from the camera and another similar stake set at
the same elevation by the same method, but in an opposite direction and
at the same distance from the camera. The two stakes or the mark on the
vertical rod which is held on these stakes in turn will be level with each
other, though they may not be level with the camera. The camera is then
moved to a point very much closer to one stake than to the other and again
leveled. The vertical distance from one stake-top or mark on the rod is
measured and the camera then focused on the second stake. If the level
is actually in adjustment, the distance from the second stake top or mark
will be exactly the same as it was on the first. If not, the difference,
or "error," is found between the two vertical distances from the cross
hair to the two stake tops. Half this error is corrected by raising or
lowering one end of the level tube by means of the threaded nuts which are
placed on it for the purpose. The whole process is then repeated until the
vertical distances from the horizontal cross hair at the center to the two
level stakes, one close to and one distant from the camera, are identical.
The axial center line of the lens, or the line of collimation, is then
in adjustment with the level. All that remains is to make the horizontal
cross hair parallel with the cross level.
[Illustration: The Maker's Adjustments Should Insure the Line of
Collimation being Perpendicular to the Plate]
This is done by using one marked stake. The camera is leveled as far as
the "fore-and-aft" level is concerned and the horizontal cross-hair point
at the center marked on the stake. The camera is then swung round until
the stake just shows on one edge of the ground glass, the fore-and-aft
or longitudinal level being checked to make sure its bubble is still
in the center. Then the bubble in the cross or transverse level tube is
brought to the center by means of the threaded adjusting nuts, and the
camera is thrown hard over so that the stake appears along the opposite
edge of the plate. This time, the bubble of the longitudinal level being
kept in the center, half the error introduced by turning from one edge
to the other is corrected. All of the adjustments are then rechecked, and
if they are found correct the instrument is ready for use. If a circular
level be used, the method of adjustment is exactly the same, the swing of
the bubble along the axis of the camera and transverse to it being used
to determine the longitudinal and transverse adjustments. Slips of paper
may be used for lifting one side in place of the adjustment nuts of the
T-level.
A leveling head or ball-and-socket joint on the top of the tripod will be
found of material aid in leveling the instrument.
No great mechanical genius is necessary to prepare a camera for or to make
a successful camera survey. But if a boy have not patience and an infinite
desire for accuracy, camera surveying, or indeed any sort of surveying,
will be a source of neither pleasure, satisfaction, nor profit.
To Make Transparent Paper
Transparent paper of parchmentlike appearance and strength, which can be
dyed with almost all kinds of aniline dyes and assumes much more brilliant
hues than ordinary colored glass, can be made in the following manner:
Procure a white paper, made of cotton or linen rags, and put it to soak in
a saturated solution of camphor in alcohol. When dry, the paper so treated
can be cut up into any forms suitable for parts of lamp shades, etc.
Toasting Bread over an Open Fire
Having experienced some difficulty in obtaining good toast over a gas or
open fire I tried the following plan with good results: An old tin pan
was placed over the flame and the ordinary wire bread toaster clasping
the slice of bread was held about 1/2 in. from the pan. In a few minutes
the toast was crisp and ready to serve.--Contributed by Katy Doherty, New
York City.
Adjustable Stilts
The beginner with stilts always selects short sticks so that he will
not be very far from the ground, but as he becomes more experienced, the
longer the sticks the better. Then, too, the small boy and the large boy
require different lengths of sticks. The device shown makes a pair of
sticks universal for use of beginners or a boy of any age or height.
[Illustration: Stilts Having Stirrups That can be Set at Any Desired
Height]
To make the stilts, procure two long sticks of even length, and smooth up
the edges; then begin at a point 1 ft. from one end and bore 12 holes,
3/8 in. in diameter and 2 in. apart from center to center. If there is
no diestock at hand, have a blacksmith, or mechanic, make a thread on
both ends of a 3/8-in. rod, 12 in. long. Bend the rod in the shape shown,
so that the two threaded ends will be just 2 in. apart from center to
center. The thread on the straight horizontal end should be so long that
a nut can be placed on both sides of the stick. A piece of a garden hose
or small rubber hose, slipped on the rod, will keep the shoe sole from
slipping. The steps can be set in any two adjacent holes to give the
desired height.--Contributed by Walter Veene, San Diego, Cal.
Grape Arbor Built of Poles
In building outdoor structures, such as grape arbors, pergolas, or
arches, it is not necessary to use sawed lumber, as they can be built as
substantial, and frequently more artistic and cheap, of poles. These are
easily obtained, especially in the country or in the smaller cities where
there usually are many trees and gardens.
[Illustration: Arbor Made of Poles Which are Supported by One Row of
Uprights (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)]
The illustrated grape arbor consists of but one row of uprights. Across
the top of each is placed a horizontal support for the roof poles, as
shown in Fig. 1, which is carried near its outer end by an inclined brace.
The brace should be connected at each end with a toe joint, as shown in
Fig. 2. The upper end of the upright is beveled off on both sides, to form
a double-splayed joint with the crosspiece. In order to securely bind the
roof of the arbor, the long poles, or roof beams, should be notched near
each end to fit over the supports. Similar notches in the poles forming
the side of the arbor are to fit the uprights, thereby binding them
together and preventing toppling over. Each set of long poles connecting
two uprights should have the end notches the same distance apart, one pole
being used as a gauge. All the joints and notches may be cut with a sharp
hatchet.
In setting the arbor, the uprights should first be assembled complete
with braces and roof supports, and placed in the ground a distance apart
corresponding to that of the notches on the long poles. The uprights being
set, the long poles are placed and fastened with nails.--Contributed by
W. E. Crane, Cleveland, Ohio.
Forcing Fruit Blossoms for Decorations
Twigs trimmed from the fruit trees rather late in the season had quite
large buds on them, and we experimented with them in this way: A large box
was filled with wet sand, and the twigs were stuck in it and the box set
in the warmest corner of the yard. The buds soon swelled and burst into
bloom. We then arranged a smaller box of sand and put the blooming twigs
into it, and took it into the house where they remained fresh for several
days.--Contributed by A. Louise Culver, Oakland, Cal.
Corner Cleaner Attached to a Scrubbing Brush
[Illustration]
Dirt will accumulate and harden in the corners of a floor and the
baseboard just because the end of the scrubbing brush will not enter
them. The water gets in with the dirt and leaves a hard crust. This may
be easily cleaned out if a metal point is attached to the end of the brush
handle, as shown in the illustration. It is used as a scraper to break up
the crust and clean it out where the bristles will not enter.--Contributed
by L. E. Turner, New York City.
[Illustration: The Boy Surveyor]
Plotting a Camera Survey By Harold G. McGee
[The camera records pictures that can be taken in camp or on
a vacation trip and kept until more leisure may be had in winter
for plotting the ground.--Editor.]
A previously measured base triangle with "stations" at each corner is
necessary for making a camera survey, just as it is for the plane-table
survey. It is preferable to have each of the three sides measured
independently, though if one side has been accurately chained, the other
two may be less satisfactorily determined by the use of the plane table.
If the camera has a fixed focus, it is possible to make an entire survey
from the two ends of a single base line; but this method has no check and
should be used only when and where the triangle method is impossible. With
an adjustable focus, it will rarely give good results.
[Illustration: Two Fine Hair Lines must be Scratched on Each Plate Before
It is Used to Plot From, or to Make Pictures from Which the Plotting is
Done]
Once the triangle has been laid out, the fieldwork is very simple. The
camera is set up at one station, carefully leveled, and then a series of
pictures is taken, each single plate overlapping the last so as to form
a panorama of the area to be mapped. The focus of the lens must not be
changed during a series, and plotting is facilitated by keeping the focus
constant during all the exposures which make up a survey. To secure good
depth of focus, a small stop is generally used, since it is necessary to
use a tripod to keep the camera level. If contours are to be drawn, the
height of the lens above the ground at the station should be measured and
recorded. After a series has been taken at each station, the fieldwork is
complete. It is an excellent plan to keep a record of the plate numbers,
and the order in which and the station from which the exposures were made,
so that the 10 or 12 plates which a small survey will comprise may not
get hopelessly mixed up. If the camera is turned each time to the right,
clockwise, and the plates are numbered A-1, A-2, B-4, etc., indicating by
A-1, for example, the leftmost plate taken at Sta. A; by A-2, the plate
just to the right of A-1, just as II is to the right of I on the clock
dial, and by B-4, the fourth to the right taken at Sta. B, there ought to
be no difficulty in identifying the plates after the exact details of the
ground are forgotten.
[Illustration: Plot of the Ground as It Should Appear After Locating the
Objects as They are Shown on the Pictures from Each Point of the Triangle]
While the pictures are being taken, "flags" of white wood or with
white-cloth streamers tied to them must be stuck in the ground or held at
the other stations in order that their exact location can be readily and
certainly found on the plates. A few distinctive stakes, some with one and
some with two or three strips of cloth tied to them, placed at important
points on the ground will help immensely in the location of knolls and
shore lines.
In plotting a camera survey, either the original plates, the prints, or
enlargements may be used. The plates are the most accurate if a corrected
lens has been used; and the enlargements made back through the lens will
be best if the images on the plates are distorted. In any case, two fine
hair lines must be scratched on each plate before it is used to plot from,
or to make the prints from which the plotting is to be done. One of these
lines should connect the points at the top and bottom of the plate, and
the other, the points at the sides. The vertical line divides the objects
which were on the right of the center of the camera from those that were
on the left, and the horizontal line connecting the points on the sides
separates the objects that were above the camera from those that were
below.
If the survey has been made with a lens that does not cover the
plate fully or that has considerable uncorrected aberration, causing
distorted shapes near the edges and corners of the picture, results can
be materially improved by plotting from enlargements. In making the
enlargements, the back of the camera should be removed and the light
should be allowed to pass through the plate and the lens in the reverse
order and direction of that in which it passed when the negative was
made. In this way, the errors which were made by the lens originally will
be straightened out, and the resulting enlargements will be free from
distortion. To make successful enlargements for surveying work, the easel
on which the bromide paper is tacked must be square with the camera, and
the paper itself should be flat and smooth. It is just as necessary to
keep the easel at a constant distance from the camera during the enlarging
as it was to keep the same focus while the original negatives were being
made.
[Illustration: In Plotting a Camera Survey the Base Triangle is First
Carefully Laid Out on the Paper to Such a Scale That the Map will be of
Desirable Size]
In plotting a camera survey the base triangle is first carefully laid out
on the paper to such a scale that the map will be of a desirable size.
With the apex of the triangle representing Sta. A, say, as a center, a
circle is drawn with a radius as nearly equal as possible to the distance
between the optical center of the lens and the plate when the picture was
taken. Ordinarily this will be the focal length of the lens; but if the
camera was not focused most sharply on an object a great distance off,
the radius may be greater. This radius is called the "mapping constant."
When an approximate distance for the mapping constant has been determined
by measurements on the camera or by knowing the focal length of the lens,
the circle, or rather the arc, FG between the two lines to stations B and
C, is drawn. The plates taken at Sta. A, and ranged around this circle on
the outside and just touching it, will show the landscape exactly as seen
from A.
In the accompanying diagram showing the method of determining the mapping
constant and of locating the traces of the plates, the letters F, G, H,
J, P, R and S designate points referring to the true mapping constant,
and the construction necessary to locate the traces of the plates. The
primed letters F', F'', G', G'', etc., are used to show similar points
where the trial mapping constant is either too long or too short. The
following description refers equally to the construction necessary with
true or trial-mapping constants.
Next, a line FH is drawn perpendicular to the line AB of the triangle at
the point F where the arc intersects it. On this line is laid off, in
the proper direction, a distance equal to the distance on the plate or
print from Sta. B to the center vertical line. From this point is drawn
a light line, HJ, toward the center of the arc. Where this line crosses
the arc, at J, a tangent, KJM, is drawn, which will show the location
of the plate A-1 on the drawing. This line is called the trace of the
plate. An object which appears both on plate A-1 and A-2 is next picked
out and its location on the trace of plate A-1 determined by measuring
the distance JN equal to the distance on the plate from the image of
the object to the center vertical line. A light line, NO, joining this
last-found point with Sta. A, is then drawn. Where this last line crosses
the arc, at O, a tangent, OP, to the arc is drawn, and the trace of the
plate A-2 is found with the aid of the point which appears on both plates
just as plate A-1 was located from the picture of Sta. B. The traces of
plates A-3 and A-4 are found in exactly the same way as was that of A-2.
If the radius of the arc has been estimated correctly, Sta. C will be
found to be exactly on the point where the trace of the plate showing
the station crosses the line AC on the paper. If it does not fall on the
line AC, which is generally the case, everything must be erased except
the original triangle. First, however, a radial line S'G', or S''G'',
is drawn from the location of Sta. C on the trace of the plate A-2, 3
or 4, as the case may be, to the arc, and the point of intersection of
this line and the arc, G' or G'', is preserved. If this point, G' or G'',
is outside the base triangle, the next trial arc should be drawn with a
larger mapping constant as a radius, or vice versa. If the second mapping
constant is off, find again the point of intersection of the radial line
through the new location of Sta. C on the newly located trace of the
last plate and the new arc. Join this point and the one found previously,
in the same manner, with a straight line, G'G''. The point G where this
last drawn line intersects the line AC of the base triangle, will be the
point through which the arc, with the correct mapping constant as radius,
ought to pass, provided the first two approximations were not too far in
error. This third trial ought to make the location of the traces of the
plates exactly correct. If, however, the focus of the camera was changed
between exposures at one station, the traces of the plates will not all
be at an equal distance from the station point, and their location will
be an almost impossible task. The traces of the plates taken at stations
B and C are found in exactly the same manner as were those for Sta. A.
After the traces have all been located, it is a good plan to ink them in
lightly and erase the pencil construction lines which would otherwise form
an impenetrable maze. The traces located, the difficult and tiresome part
of the plotting is over; the landscape, brought indoors photographically,
is located as with the plane table; all that remains to be done is to take
the sights and find the points on the paper which show where the objects
were on the ground.
[Illustration: From Each Station the Mapping Constant is Laid Out by the
Focal Distance of the Camera or Distance of the Plate from the Lens, and
the Location of Traces of the Plates Determined]
This taking the sights is a simple matter. With a pair of dividers,
the distance from a given object from the center line of the plate is
measured. This distance is laid off on the proper side of the point
marking the center line of the trace of the same plate; a radial line is
drawn through the trace at the given distance from the center-line point
and the station at which the given plate is taken; this is one line of
sight to the object. The same object is located from another station in
the same way; as on the plane table, the intersection of the two lines
to the same object marks the location of the point which represents the
object on the map.
Obtaining elevations for the drawing of contours is a slightly longer
process. Contours are lines joining points of equal elevation; they
represent successive shore lines, if the area mapped were inundated and
the water should rise slowly foot by foot. If the contours are close
together, the ground represented has a steep slope, and vice versa. If, on
a map, a number of points are of known elevation, it is simply a question
of judgment and practice to tell where contour lines go.
Before contours can be drawn the elevations of a considerable number of
points must be known. If the elevation of any one of them is known and
the difference between that one and any other can be found, determining
the elevation of the second point is simply a problem in addition or
subtraction. If it be desired to find, for instance, the difference in
elevation between Sta. C and the corner of the fence, as shown in the
sketch, two solutions are possible, as follows:
First: Perpendicular to the line of sight from Sta. C to the fence corner,
two lines are drawn, one at the intersection of the trace of the plate
by the line of sight, and one at the point on the paper which shows the
location of the fence corner. On the first of these two lines is laid
off the distance Y', equal to the distance of the ground at the fence
post above or below the horizontal center line on the plate. Through this
point, on the first perpendicular on the line of sight, is drawn a line
through the Sta. C and extended to an intersection with the second drawn
perpendicular. The distance from the corner of the fence, on the paper,
to this intersection is the distance Y, the difference in elevation from
the center of the camera at Sta. C to the ground at the fence post. This
solution is longer and less desirable than the second.
Second: In place of perpendicular lines to the line of sight, the trace of
the plate, and a line, through the point representing the object, parallel
with the trace, may be used.
A datum plane, or reference surface, from which all elevations are
measured up to the ground surface must be assumed. The United States
Geological Survey uses mean, or average, sea level for the datum in
all its topographic sheets. Generally, unless there is a United States
Geological Survey "bench mark," a monument of carefully determined
elevation referred to sea level, within the limits of the survey, it is
better to assume the elevation of some point, as Sta. C, at 100 ft., or
greater if necessary to place the datum plane below the ground level at
all points within the area to be mapped. Other elevations are figured
from the assumed elevation of Sta. C. Allowance must be made for the
height of the center of the camera above the ground at Sta. C in computing
elevations above Sta. C. All elevations determined for the purpose of
drawing contours are ground elevations and not the elevation of the top
of objects located on the map. The topographic sheets of the Geological
Survey are good examples to follow, in drawing contours. For many
purposes, contours are not essential, and the refinements necessary for
their drawing may be omitted.
How to Build a Skiff
The following is a description of an easily constructed 12-ft. skiff,
suitable for rowing and paddling. This is the type used by many duck
hunters, as it may be easily pushed through marshes. It is constructed of
3/4-in. dressed pine, or cypress.
[Illustration: The Skiff is Especially Constructed for Use in Shallow
Water and Marshes by Duck Hunters, but with the Addition of a Keel It
Makes a Good Craft for Almost Any Water as a Rowboat (Fig. 1)]
[Illustration: (Fig. 2)]
The sides consist of planks, 14 in. wide, but 12-in. planks may be used,
the length being 12 ft. 4 in. Two stem pieces are constructed as shown
in Fig. 1, and the plank ends are fastened to them with screws. Nail a
crosspiece on the plank edges in the exact center, so as to space the
planks 34 in. apart, as shown in Fig. 2; then turn it over and nail
another crosspiece in the center of the planks for width, and make the
spacing of the other edges 40 in. Plane the lower edges so that, in
placing a board across them, the surfaces will be level. The floor boards
are 6 in. wide and fastened on crosswise, being careful to apply plenty
of red lead between all joints and using galvanized nails, 2 in. long.
[Illustration: (Fig. 3)]
A deck, 18 in. long, is fastened on each end, as shown in Fig. 3. It is
made of strips fastened to a crosspiece. The seats, or thwarts, consist of
10-in. boards, and are placed on short strips fastened to the side planks
about 5 in. from the bottom. The oarlocks are held in a wedge-shaped piece
of wood, having a piece of gas pipe in them for a bushing, the whole being
fastened at the upper edge of the side planks with screws, as shown in
Fig. 4. The location of these must be determined by the builder.
[Illustration: (Fig. 4)]
Some calking may be required between the bottom, or floor, boards, if they
are not nailed tightly against one another. The calking material may be
loosely woven cotton cord, which is well forced into the seams. The first
coat of paint should be of red lead mixed with raw linseed oil, and when
dry any color may be applied for the second coat.
While, for use in shallow water, these boats are not built with a keel,
one can be attached to prevent the boat from "sliding off" in a side wind
or when turning around. When one is attached, it should be 3/4 in. thick,
3 in. wide, and about 8 ft. long.--Contributed by B. Francis Dashiell,
Baltimore, Md.
* * * * *
An aniline color soluble in alcohol, by adding a
little carbolic acid, will hold fast on celluloid.
Double-Swing Gate with Common Hinge
[Illustration: The Post and Gate are Cut Away Back of the Hinge to Allow
the Latter to Swing Back]
Ordinary hinges can be easily bent and so placed on posts that a gate
can be swung in either direction. As shown in the illustration, hinges
can be made to fit either round or square posts. The gate half of the
hinge is fastened in the usual way. The post half is bent and so placed
that the hinge pin will approximately be on a line between the centers of
the posts. The gate and post should be beveled off to permit a full-open
gateway.--Contributed by R. R. Schmitz, Birmingham, Ala.
Testing Out Induction Coils
While winding an induction coil, I found it necessary to test the
sections for continuity. Having no galvanometer, I connected a battery
and low-resistance telephone receiver in series with the section and
battery. The battery and telephone receiver may also be used for testing
out the secondary of an induction coil, to determine if it is burnt
out.--Contributed by John M. Wells, Moosomin, Can.
How to Make a Surveyor's Transit By Bennett Blacklidge
[Illustration: Detail of Parts for the Construction of a Transit Which
can be Used, with Fairly Accurate Results, in Doing Amateur Surveying for
Railroad Work, Town Sites and the Laying Out of Maps]
A boy who likes to do the things that "grown ups" do can derive
considerable pleasure from the making of a transit, which will enable him
to start in surveying railroads, laying off town sites, and doing lots
of kindred work. It is necessary to have a compass, and one, 1-3/4 in.
in diameter, can be purchased at a reasonable price. A hole is bored with
an expansive bit into a board, 7/8 in. in thickness, just deep enough to
admit the compass snugly, then a circle, A, 4-1/2 in. in diameter, is
drawn, having the same center as the compass hole, and the disk is cut
out with a compass or scroll saw. A ring, B, is cut in the same manner
from the same material, its inside diameter being such that the ring just
fits around the disk A, and the outside diameter, 6-3/4 in. Another block,
5-1/2 in. in diameter, is glued to the bottom of the small disk A. This
will appear as shown at C. A small hole is bored in the center of the
bottom block on the under side to receive the threaded end of the screw on
a camera tripod. By careful adjustment the threads in the wood will hold
the transit firmly. A plumb bob must be attached exactly in the center of
the tripod head. This can be easily done if the head is wood, but in case
the top is of metal, the line can be attached to the screw with a double
loop, as shown at D, so that the bob will hang centrally. Two standards
are made as shown at E, each about 5 in. high, and fastened to the ring
B in the positions shown in the drawing of the complete instrument. An
arc of a circle is marked on one of the standards, as shown, to designate
angles, the markings being laid out with a bevel protractor. The pointer
is a hand from an old alarm clock.
The telescope arrangement consists of a piece of pasteboard tubing,
about 1-1/4 in. in diameter, one end being covered with a piece of black
paper with a pinhole in the exact center, and the other equipped with
"cross hairs." Four small notches are cut in the latter end of the tube,
exactly quartering it, and two silk threads as fine as can be obtained,
are stretched across in these notches. The tube is fastened to a block of
wood, 5 in. wide and 7 in. long, with small tacks and two pieces of fine
copper wire. This block is pinioned between the standards with two nails.
The hand is secured to the nail in such a position that it will point
straight down when the tube is level.
The instrument is adjusted in the following manner: It is set up where a
lone tree can be seen, about one mile distant, and the center of the cross
hairs is carefully set on the tree. Then a very fine wire is stretched
across the compass, as shown at F, and while keeping it directly over the
center of the compass it is also placed on a direct line pointing to the
tree. Very small brass nails, driven in at G and H, serve to fasten it in
the position thus found. When this adjustment has been made the telescope
can be turned to sight any object, after first placing the instrument so
that the needle points to the N on the dial, and a glance at the wire will
show the exact direction in which the object is located.
The instrument is then taken to a level stretch of road and set up, and
a stick is placed on end and marked at the height of the telescope. The
stick is taken along the road about 200 yd., the telescope sighted on it,
and the hand set. This makes the instrument level enough for all practical
purposes. The plumb bob is then dropped, a distance of 20 ft. measured
from it on the road, and a mark made. The telescope is sighted on this
mark, and a mark is made on the standard at the point of the arc, to which
the hand points. Another 20 ft. is measured, or 40 ft. from the bob, and
another mark made. The telescope is sighted on it, and the location of
the hand again marked. This works well up to about 300 ft., then the marks
begin to come very close together. This method is used for laying out town
sites. The instrument is set up directly over a stake from which to work,
and the telescope is turned down until the 20-ft. mark is indicated, when
the operator looks through the telescope and tells his helper where to set
the stake. Then another is driven at the next point, and so on, until the
limit of the instrument is reached.
When doing railroad surveying several start out together, one with an
ax to cut away brush; one to carry pegs; two to measure, or chain, the
distance between stakes, and one to do the sighting. In this manner a line
can be run that comes very near being perfectly straight for three miles.
A concrete example of how the transit was used to lay out a map of a
ranch will now be given. The start was made on an east and west fence.
The instrument was set 5 ft. from the fence at one point, and at the
other end of the fence the stick was set at a point 5 ft. from the fence.
When the stick was sighted, the wire cut the E and W on the compass, thus
showing that the fence was set on a line, due east and west. The distance
was measured from the fence to the house, which was 1/4 mile, and this
was noted in a book. This operation was repeated on the rear, and the
distance found to be 780 ft. while the compass showed the direction to
be 4 deg. west of south. The next line ran 427 ft. and 1 deg. east of
south. This was kept up all the way around. After these notes had been
obtained, it was an easy matter to take a piece of plain paper and strike
a line representing north and south and lay off the directions. A bevel
protractor was used to find the degrees. The transit was set on the posts
of the corrals and this saved the measuring out from the inclosure. The
creek was surveyed in the same manner. So many feet south-west, so many
feet west, so many feet 5 deg. south of west, and so on, until its length
was run.
The transit can also be used for finding distances without measuring. A
line from A to B is sighted, and F represents a point 1/2 mile distant,
the line from F to G being 100 ft. A line is now sighted from A, through
G to C. A person standing at D is directed to move toward the point E and
he is stopped as soon as sighted in the telescope. He then measures the
distance from D to E. Suppose this distance is 250 ft. As each 100 ft.
means 1/2 mile, and the 50 ft., 1/4 mile, the point E is 1-1/4 miles
from the transit. This method can be used quite extensively and distances
obtained are fairly accurate.
* * * * *
A small whisk broom makes a handy cleaner to brush
the caked grease and lint from pulleys and gear wheels
where waste and rags are useless.
To Enlarge or Reduce Plots
Sometimes it is necessary to enlarge or reduce a plot to a different
scale. This can be easily and quickly accomplished without resorting to
the slow process of protracting the angles and scaling the individual
lines.
[Illustration: Enlarging and Reducing Plots by Radial Lines from a Common
Point Located Properly]
Take any point, P, and from it draw light pencil lines through each of
the corners of the plot. On any one of these lines, as AP, lay off with
dividers AC equal to CP. Place a triangle on the line AB and with a
straightedge, or another triangle, laid on the line AP, slide the former
to the point C, then draw line CD parallel with AB until it intersects the
radial line PB. In the same manner draw line DE parallel with BF, and so
on, all about the plot. A test of accuracy will be in striking the point
C with the last line. If the original plot has a scale of 40 ft. to the
inch the reduced plot would be 80 ft. to the inch. If it is required to
enlarge the plot to 20 ft. to the inch, make AG equal to AP, and proceed
as in the first case, using G as the starting point.
The location of the point P is arbitrary and may be outside of the
boundary of the plot or figure to be enlarged or reduced, but should
be so located, if possible, that the radial line to any corner does not
parallel either of the plot lines to that corner. If the point cannot be
so located for all the lines, it may be necessary to scale the lines. A
little practice in picking out the best location for the point will give
gratifying results.--Contributed by Junius D. McCabe, Pittsburgh, Pa.
A Lathe Bench
While working at a bench, or foot-power lathe, it is quite convenient to
have some sort of a seat to sit on while at work, or between operations.
In making such a seat, I used a board, 27 in. long and 12 in. wide, for
the top, and two boards, 19 in. long and 12 in. wide, for the supports.
These boards were 3/4 in. thick. The supports were squared at the ends
and securely fastened to the top with nails, their positions being 3 in.
in from the ends of the top board. These were well braced, as shown, and
a cross board was placed between them, near the lower ends.
[Illustration: The Bench Provides a Seat for the Worker in Doing
Operations on a Small Foot Lathe]
The projecting ends of the top were cut out, and a box, 5 in. deep,
constructed against the supports. A covering was made to fit in each of
the openings in the top board and hinged to the outer edge of the box.
The boxes made a convenient place for the tools used in the turning
work.--Contributed by Harold R. Harvey, Buhl, Idaho.
Cleaning and Polishing Shoes
In using the polishes now on the market for tan shoes, I found that the
leather cracked in an unreasonably short time. The following was suggested
and tried out with good results. Wash the shoes with castile soap and
water by applying the mixture with a dauber. Work up a little lather and
then rub dry with a cloth, without rinsing. The leather will be cleaned
without becoming dark, and it will not crack. A higher polish may be
obtained by using some paste polish in the usual manner.--Contributed by
George Bliss, Washington, D. C.
Shaving Cabinet Mounted on an Adjustable Pedestal
The illustration represents a shaving cabinet mounted on an adjustable
pedestal, whose style and size are such that it may easily be moved about
or set away without requiring much room. The material required for its
construction is as follows:
1 framed mirror, 8 by 10 in.
1 square-head bolt and wing nut, 1/2 by 4 in.
2 cabinet sides, 1/2 by 7 by 15 in.
2 partitions and shelf, 1/2 by 6 by 6 in.
1 cabinet top, 1/2 by 7 by 10-1/2 in.
1 cabinet bottom, 1/2 by 6 by 10-1/2 in.
2 cabinet backs and doors, 1/2 by 6-1/2 by 10-1/2 in.
4 cabinet moldings, 1 by 4 by 4 in.
1 cabinet support, 2 by 2 by 26 in.
4 pedestal moldings, 1 by 1 by 6 in.
4 pedestal frames, 1 by 3 by 36 in.
1 base, 2 by 12 by 12 in.
Screws, nails, and varnish.
[Illustration: The Mirror and Cabinet are Mounted on a Pedestal That can
be Moved as Desired]
The sidepieces of the cabinet are extended at one corner, thereby forming
the supports for the mirror. The door fits in between the sides and
may be attached either by hinges or two wood screws, one on each side,
holes being bored in the sides forming a loose fit for the screw so they
can freely turn with the door. The pedestal consists of a 4-in. square
box resting on the base block, and secured in place by means of molding
strips. The sliding support for the cabinet consists of a 2-in. square
piece secured to the bottom of the cabinet by means of molding, and
provided with a slot so the support can freely slide over the clamp bolt,
which fastens it in place by clamping it against the pedestal. If it is
desired to conceal the head of the bolt, a recess should be made in the
pedestal frame for it, as shown, so the support will freely slide over it.
Before assembling the pedestal it will be necessary to drill a hole in
the front side in line with the recess of the back side, and insert the
bolt. If this precaution is not taken, it will not be possible to insert
the bolt, unless a hole be made for the head either through the back side
or front side.--Contributed by D. Toppan, Watervliet, N. Y.
Four-Passenger Coasting Bobsled By R. H. Allen
[Illustration: Coasting Is One of the Best Sports a Boy Enjoys during
Winter, and a Sled of Luxury Is Something to Be Proud of among Others on
a Hill or Toboggan Slide]
Coaster bobs usually have about the same form of construction, and only
slight changes from the ordinary are made to satisfy the builder. The
one shown has some distinctive features which make it a sled of luxury,
and the builder will pride himself in the making. A list of the materials
required is given on the opposite page. Any wood may be used for the sled,
except for the runners, which should be made of ash.
Shape the runners all alike by cutting one out and using it as a pattern
to make the others. After cutting them to the proper shape, a groove is
formed on the under edge to admit the curve of a 5/8-in. round iron rod
about 1/4 in. deep. The iron rods are then shaped to fit over the runner
in the groove and extend up the back part of the runner and over the top
at the front end. The extensions should be flattened so that two holes
can be drilled in them for two wood screws at each end. If the builder
does not have the necessary equipment for flattening these ends, a local
blacksmith can do it at a nominal price. After the irons are fitted, they
are fastened in place.
The top edges of the runners are notched for the crosspieces so that the
top surfaces of these pieces will come flush with the upper edges of the
runners. The location of these pieces is not essential, but should be near
the ends of the runners, and the notches of each pair of runners should
coincide. When the notches are cut, fit in the pieces snugly, and fasten
them with long, slim wood screws. Small metal braces are then fastened to
the runners and crosspiece on the inside, to stiffen the joint.
[Illustration: Details Showing the Method of Rear-Sled Oscillation, the
Bracing, and the Steering Wheel]
As the rear sled must oscillate some, means must be provided for this
tilting motion while at the same time preventing sidewise turning. The
construction used for this purpose is a hinged joint. The heavy 2 by 5-in.
crosspiece is cut sloping on the width so that it remains 2 in. thick
at one edge and tapers down to a feather edge at the opposite side. This
makes a wedge-shaped piece, to which surface the three large hinges are
attached. The piece is then solidly fastened to the upper edges of the
runners that are to be used for the rear sled, and so located that the
center of the piece will be 8 in. from the front end of the runners.
The supporting crosspiece on the front sled is fastened on top of the
runners, at a place where its center will be 11 in. from the front end of
the runners.
The top board is prepared by making both ends rounding and planing the
surfaces smooth. On the under side, the two crosspieces are placed, which
should have two 1/2-in. holes bored through the width of each, near the
ends, to receive the eyebolts. They are placed, one with its center 12 in.
from the end to be used for the rear, and the other with its center 8 in.
from the front end, and securely fastened with screws. The shore is placed
in the center of the board, and wires are run over it connecting the
eyebolts. The eyebolts are then drawn up tightly to make the wire taut
over the shore. This will prevent the long board from sagging.
LIST OF MATERIALS
1 top. 6-1/2 ft. long, 16 in. wide, and 1-1/4 in. thick.
4 runners. 22 in, long, 4 in. wide, and 1 in. thick.
4 crosspieces, 16 in. long, 3 in. wide, and 1 in. thick.
3 pieces, 16 in, long, 5 in. wide, and 2 in. thick.
1 piece, 16 in. long, 5 in. wide, and 1 in. thick.
1 shore, 16 in. long, 3 in. wide, and 1 in. thick.
4 seat backs. 12 in. long, 16 in. wide, and 1 in. thick.
1 dowel. 3 ft. long, and 1 in. in diameter.
4 rods. 5/8 in. in diameter, and 30 in. long.
4 eyebolts, 1/2 in. by 6 in. long.
3 hinges, 5-in. strap.
8 hinges, 3-in. strap.
On the upper side of the board and beginning at the rear end, the backs
are fastened at intervals of 18 in. They are first prepared by rounding
the corners on the ends used for the tops, and the opposite ends are cut
slightly on an angle to give the back a slant. They are then fastened with
the small hinges to the top board. On the edges of the top board, 1-in.
holes are bored about 1 in. deep, and pins driven for foot rests. These
are located 18 in. apart, beginning about 5 in. from the front end. The
dowel is used for the pins, which are made 4 in. long.
[Illustration: The Top Board is Well Braced on the Under Side and Fitted
with Four Backs on Top to Make It a Luxurious Riding Sled, and the Runners
are Provided with Metal Shoes for Speed]
The steering device consists of a broom handle, cut to 18 in. in length,
with one end fastened in a hole bored centrally in the 5-in. crosspiece
of the front sled. A hole is bored in the top board through the center
of the crosspiece fastened to the under side for the steering post. The
broomstick is run through this hole after first placing two metal washers
on it. After running the stick through, a collar is fastened to it just
above the top board, so that the top cannot be raised away from the sled.
At the upper end of the broomstick a steering wheel is attached, made from
a nail-keg hoop. A piece of wood is fastened across its diameter, and the
hoop is covered with a piece of garden hose and wrapped with twine. In
the center of the crosspiece, a hole is bored to snugly fit on the broom
handle, which is then fastened with screws.
The rear sled is fastened to the top board with screws through the
extending wings of the hinges and into the crosspiece. Holes are bored in
the front ends of all runners, and a chain or rope is attached in them,
the loop end of the rear one being attached to the under side of the top
board, and the one in the front used for drawing the sled.
To Prevent Drill from Catching As It Passes through Metal
The regular slope of a drill will cause the cutting edge to catch as it
breaks through the metal on the opposite side of the piece being drilled.
But if a twist drill is ground more flat like a flat drill, it will not
"grab" into the metal as it passes through.--Contributed by James H.
Beebee, Rochester, N. Y.
[Illustration]
An Ice Boat and Catamaran By Robert K. Patterson
This combination is produced by using the regular type of ice boat and
substituting boats for the runners, to make the catamaran.
In constructing the ice boat, use two poles, or timbers, one 16 ft. and
the other 10-1/2 ft. long, crossed at a point 2-1/2 ft. from one end of
the longer timber. The crossed pieces are firmly braced with wires, as
shown.
The mast, which should be about 12 ft. long, is set into a mortise cut
in the long timber, 15 in. from the front end, and is further stabilized
by wires, as shown. A jib boom, about 6 ft. long, as well as a main boom,
which is 11-1/2 ft. long, are hung on the mast in the usual manner.
[Illustration: The Ice Boat Provides an Ideal Outing in Winter Where There
Is a Body of Water Large Enough for Sailing]
The front runners consist of band-iron strips, 18 in. long, 3 in. wide,
and 1/8 in. thick, with one edge ground like the edge of a skate, and the
ends rounding, which are fastened with bolts to the sides of wood pieces,
18 in. long, 6 in. wide, and 2 in. thick, allowing the ground edge to
project about 1 inch.
When the ice-boat frame is made of poles, the runners are attached to a
piece of wood, 12 in. long, shaped as shown and fastened at right angles
with bolts running through the shouldered part diagonally. This makes a
surface on which the pole end rests and where it is securely fastened with
bolts. If squared timbers are used, the runners can be fastened directly
to them. The rear, or guiding, runner is fastened between two pieces of
wood, so that its edge projects; then it is clamped in a bicycle fork,
which should be cut down so that about 3 in. of the forks remain. A hole
is bored through the rear end of the long pole to receive the fork head,
the upper end of which is supplied with a lever. The lever is attached to
the fork head by boring a hole through the lever end at a slight angle to
fit the head, allowing sufficient end to be slotted, whereupon a hole is
bored through the width of the handle, and a bolt inserted, to act as a
clamp.
[Illustration: The Ice-Boat Details, Showing Construction with Straight
Poles Having Detachable Runners So the Boats can be Supplied in Their
Stead to Make a Sailing Catamaran for Use in Summer]
A board is fastened on two crosspieces mortised in the upper part of
the pole, for a place to sit on when driving the boat. The sail can be
constructed of any good material to the dimensions given.
To rig up the ice boat for use as a catamaran, place a pole across the
stern, the length of the pole being equal to the one used on the front
part of the ice boat. Two water-tight boats are constructed, 16 ft. long,
12 in. wide, and 10 in. deep at the center. To make these two boats
procure six boards, 16 ft. long, 10 in. wide, and 1 in. thick. Three
boards are used to make each boat. Bend one board so that it will be in an
arc of a circle, then nail on the two side boards, after which the edges
of the sides are cut away to the shape of the bent board. The runners
are removed from the ice boat, and the boats fastened to the pole ends. A
rudder is attached in the place of the rear, or guiding, runner. The tops
of the boats, or floats, can be covered and made water-tight.
Mind-Reading Effect with Cards
Five cards are shown, and some one person is asked to think of two cards
in the lot, after which the performer places the cards behind his back and
removes any two cards, then shows the remaining three and asks if the two
cards in mind have been removed. The answer is always yes, as it cannot
be otherwise.
To prepare the cards, take any 10 cards from the pack and paste the back
of one card to another, making five double cards. Removing any two cards
behind the performer's back reduces the number of cards to three, and when
these are turned over they will not have the same faces so that the ones
first seen cannot be shown the second time even though all five cards were
turned over and shown.
An Air Pencil to Make Embossed Letters
The device illustrated is for making embossed letters on show cards,
signs, post cards, etc. A small bulb, such as used on cameras, is
procured, also the spout from a small oilcan. The bulb is fastened to the
spout as shown.
The material for use in the pencil is quick-drying mucilage thickened
with flake white. If some special color is desired, tint the mixture with
aniline. Fill the spout with the mixture and attach the bulb. Squeeze the
bulb gently while forming the letters, then dust over with bronze, and
allow to dry.
[Illustration: The Oilcan Spout Is the Reservoir to Hold the Paint, and
the Bulb Produces the Air Pressure]
An Endless Dish or Floor Mop
A good way to use up cord that collects about the house, is to make an
endless dish or floor mop of it. Procure a thin board that will make a
good length and wind the cord around it, then remove it from the board
and tie the bunch together in the center.
Combination Tie Rack and Collar Holder
An unusual though simple tie rack can be made by supporting the tie bar
in the center. By this arrangement the ties can be placed on it from
either end, thus avoiding the tedious threading through, required on the
ordinary rack supported at each end. Collars may be hung on a peg placed
above the tie bar. The pieces can be glued together and a good finish
given in the usual way. The rack can be hung up by two screw eyes. The
material required consists of four pieces, dimensioned 5/8 by 5 by 8 in.,
3/8 by 7/8 by 7-1/2 in., 3/8 by 5/8 by 3-1/8 in., and 7/8 by 7/8 by 2 in.
respectively.--Contributed by Arthur C. Vener, Dallas, Texas.
[Illustration: Collar and Tie Rack with Open-End Hangers So That the
Articles can be Slipped On Easily without being Passed behind a Bar as Is
Usually the Case]
[Illustration:]
Skates Made of Wood
Skates that will take the place of the usual steel-runner kind and which
will prevent spraining of the ankles, can be made of a few pieces of
1/2-in. boards.
Four runners are cut out, 2 in. wide at the back and 1-1/2 in. wide at
the front, the length to be 2 in. longer than the shoe. The top edges of
a pair of runners are then nailed to the under side of a board 4 in. wide,
at its edges.
A piece of board, or block, 2 in. wide is fastened between the runners at
the rear, and one 1 in. wide, in front. Two bolts are run through holes
bored in the runners, one just back of the front board, or block, and the
other in front of the rear one.
Four triangular pieces are fastened, one on each corner, so that the heel
and toe of the shoe will fit between them, and, if desired, a crosspiece
can be nailed in front of the heel. Straps are attached to the sides for
attaching the skate to the shoe. Both skates are made alike.--Contributed
by F. E. Kennar, Hennessey, Okla.
[Illustration: Skates Made of Wood to Take the Place of the Steel-Runner
Kind and Prevent Sprained Ankles]
* * * * *
The best paint for paper roofing is asphaltum varnish.
[Illustration:]
An Ice Glider By Mildred E. Thomas
The enthusiastic pushmobilist need not put aside his hobby during the
winter, as an amusement device for use on ice, which will surpass the very
best pushmobile, can be easily made as shown in the illustration.
[Illustration: The Glider is Pushed over the Ice Similarly to a
Pushmobile, and the Speed That can be Attained is Much Greater]
Similar to an ice yacht, only a great deal smaller, the ice glider will
require three ordinary skates, two of which are fastened to the ends of
the front crosspiece, so that their blades will stand at an angle of about
30 deg. with their edges outward. To get this angle, tapering blocks are
fastened to the crosspiece ends, as shown. The skates are then fastened
to these blocks.
[Illustration: Detail of the Parts for the Construction of the Ice Glider,
or Pushmobile]
The crosspiece is 30 in. long and about 8 in. wide. In the center of this
piece an upright is constructed, 26 in. high. The edges of the front
crosspiece are cut on a slant so that a piece nailed to its front and
back edge will stand sloping toward the rear. A handle, 24 in. long, is
fastened between the two uprights at the upper end. The rear part is made
of a board, 8 in. wide and 40 in. long. The remaining skate is fastened in
a perfectly straight position on the rear end. The skates may be attached
with screws run through holes drilled in the top plates, or with straps.
The front end of the rear board has a hole for a bolt to attach it to the
center of the front crosspiece, so that the latter will turn to guide the
glider.
A pusher is prepared from a block of wood, into which nails are driven
with their ends projecting on the under side. The block is strapped to
one shoe, as shown.
[Illustration: The Block of Wood with Projecting Nails to Fasten on the
Shoe That Does the Pushing]
The glider is used in the same manner as a pushmobile.
The pusher can be made in another way by using sole leather instead of the
block. Small slots are cut in the sides for the straps. Nails are driven
through the leather so that the points project. Either kind of pusher is
especially adapted for the pushmobile to prevent wear on the shoe.
Prony Brake for Testing Small Motors
The ordinary prony brake is not, as a rule, sensitive enough to make
an accurate test on small motors, such as those used in driving sewing
machines, washing machines, vacuum cleaners, etc. The arrangement shown in
the accompanying sketch has been used for this purpose with good results
and was very accurate. The operation of the brake is exceedingly simple.
[Illustration: Prony Brake Used in Connection with a Small Balance to Find
the Horsepower]
A pulley without a crown face is attached to the shaft of the motor, which
is fastened to the top of a table or bench, and a balance mounted directly
over the pulley. The support for the balance should be a narrow strip,
which in turn is supported on two upright pieces, as shown. A light rope
is put under the pulley, and the ends are looped over the platforms of the
balance so that it does not interfere with the operation of the balance.
The ends of the rope should be vertical and parallel. The piece upon
which the balance rests is raised by inserting wedges, thus increasing
the tension in the rope. The resulting friction of the rope on the pulley
increases the load.
If the motor is running in the direction indicated by the arrow on the
pulley, the tension in the left-hand end of the rope will be greater
than in the right-hand end and a weight must be placed on the right-hand
platform of the balance. When the weight W is adjusted so that the two
pointers on the platforms are exactly opposite each other, the value of
the weight W, in pounds, will represent the difference in pull, in pounds,
between A and B. If the value of the weight W is known and also the speed
of the machine when the weight was determined, the horsepower output can
be computed by means of the following equation:
6.2832 × L × W × R.P.M.
Hp. = -----------------------
33,000 × 12
In this equation, L is the distance in inches from the center of the
pulley to the center of the rope. Two ordinary spring balances may be
substituted for the beam balance and the difference in their readings
taken for the value W. For best results, the tension in the slack end of
the rope should be as small as possible, and it may be necessary to wrap
the rope one or more times completely around the pulley.
A Mystic Fortune Teller
Fortune telling by means of weights striking glasses or bottles is quite
mysterious if controlled in a manner that cannot be seen by the audience.
The performer can arrange two strikes for "no," and three for "yes" to
answer questions. Any kind of bottles, glass, or cups may be used. In the
bottles the pendulum can be suspended from the cork, and in the glasses
from small tripods set on the table.
[Illustration: The Rocking of the Table is Caused by the Pressure of Air
in the Bulb under the Foot, the Movement Causing the Pendulum to Swing
and Strike the Glass]
The secret of the trick is as follows: A rubber tube with a bulb attached
to each end is placed under a rug, one bulb being located under one table
leg and the other near the chair of the performer set at some distance
from the table where it can be pressed with the foot. Some one selects a
pendulum; the performer gazes intently at it, and presses the bulb under
his foot lightly at first; then, by watching the swaying of the pendulum
selected, he will know when to give the second impulse, and continue until
the weight strikes the glass. As the pendulums are of different lengths
they must necessarily swing at different rates per second. The impulses
must be given at the proper time or else the pendulum will be retarded
instead of increased in amplitude. A table with four legs is best to
use, and the leg diagonally opposite that with the bulb beneath it must
not touch the carpet or floor. This can be arranged by placing pieces of
cardboard under the other two legs.--Contributed by James J. McIntyre.
Holding Prints in a Liquid-Filled Tray
[Illustration: Push Pins on the Under Side of the Board Raise It and
Provide a Space for the Prints in the Liquid]
After having considerable trouble in keeping my paper prints in the hypo
fixing bath from curling, which would force the edges out of the liquid,
I found the plan here illustrated a success. I procured a piece of wood,
the size of a postcard, and stuck four glass push pins into one surface,
one at each corner, and fastened a handle to the center of the upper side.
The papers are first placed in the bath, then the board is set over them
with the pins down. This holds the prints under the liquid but does not
press them tightly together.--Contributed by J. J. Kolar, Maywood, Ill.
* * * * *
A piece of an old gunny sack will polish brass work
very nicely.
Cellar-Door Holder
[Illustration]
A cellar door that opened up against a wall required a catch of some kind
to keep it open at times. As I did not want a catch to show on the wall, I
devised a holder as shown. Three pieces of wood were nailed to the under
side of the door in such positions that they formed a recess in which a
fourth piece, 2 in. wide and 1 in. thick, would slide endways. A knob was
attached to the upper end of the slide, which served the double purpose
of a handle and a stop for the slide. The manner of using the holder is
clearly shown.--Contributed by H. T. Smith, Topeka, Kansas.
An Emergency Pencil Compass
[Illustration]
The need of a compass when none was at hand caused me to quickly devise a
substitute for the work. A piece of stiff wire, about the length of the
pencil, was procured, and several turns were made around the pencil, as
shown. The lower straight end was filed to a point. The wire can be bent
to obtain the radius distance.--Contributed by Preston Ware, Rome, Ga.
* * * * *
A very effective dip for brass and copper articles,
that will leave a clean and bright finish, is 2 qt.
of aqua fortis, 1 gal. of sulphuric acid, 1 pt. of
water and a pinch of salt.
Renewing Carbon Paper
When carbon paper has been used several times, the preparation becomes
almost worn off on some parts, while other parts of the paper are as
good as new. The process of renewing is very simple and it can be done
by anyone without special apparatus. All that is necessary is to hold the
paper in front of a fire or over a radiator a few seconds. The heat will
cause the preparation to dissolve and spread over the paper, so that when
it is dry the paper will have a new coating. This can be repeated, and
in some cases will double the life of the carbon paper.--Contributed by
Chester M. Kearney, Danville, Quebec.
How to Clinch a Finishing Nail
[Illustration]
A wire or finishing nail may be clinched as nicely as a wrought nail, if
a nail punch or piece of iron is placed along the side of it, as shown at
A, and the nail hammered into an arched form, as at B. The punch or rod
is then withdrawn and the arch driven into the wood.--Contributed by James
M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
To Prevent Washbasin Bottom from Wearing Out
The ears from some sirup buckets were removed and three of them soldered,
at equal distances apart, on the bottom of the washbasin near the
outside edge of the lower part. These prevented the wear from coming
on the bottom of the basin, and it lasted several times as long as
ordinarily.--Contributed by A. A. Ashley, Blanket, Texas.
* * * * *
To curl feathers, heat slightly before a fire, then
stroke with something like the back of a case knife.
[Illustration]
Snowshoes: How to Make and Use Them By Stillman Taylor
Part I--Shapes of Snowshoes
To the inventive mind of the North American Indian we owe the snowshoe,
and its conception was doubtless brought about through that prolific
source of invention--necessity. The first models were crude web-footed
affairs, but improvements in model and manner of filling the frames were
gradually added until the perfected and graceful shoe of the present was
finally reached. The first snowshoes were made by the Indians, and the
Indians of Maine and Canada continue to fashion the finest models today.
The snowshoe is a necessity for the sportsman and trapper whose pleasure
or business leads him out in the open during the winter season, when
roads and trails are heavily blanketed by a deep fall of powdery snow.
But the use of the web shoe is by no means confined to the dweller in the
wilderness, since the charm of wintry wood and plain beckons many lovers
of the outdoors to participate in this invigorating sport, and snowshoe
tramps are fast growing in popularity in and about our cities and towns.
All the modern snowshoes are constructed upon practically the same general
lines, although the types of frames differ considerably in size as well
as in shape, and the filling of hide is often woven in many varied and
intricate patterns. The frame or bow--usually made of ash in order to get
strength with light weight--is bent in many shapes, but the one shown in
the diagram is a typical general-purpose shoe, and may be called standard.
The frame is held in shape by means of two wooden cross braces, neatly
mortised into the frame. These braces are spaced some 15 or 16 in. apart,
and so divide the shoe into three sections, known as the toe, center, and
heel. The filling is woven into a lanyard, which is a light strip of hide
firmly laced to the frame through a double row of holes drilled in the
wood. The center filling is woven of heavy strands of rawhide, in a fairly
coarse mesh, because this part of the shoe must bear the weight of the
body and the brunt of wear. The end fillers for toe and heel are woven of
lighter strands of hide, and the mesh is, of course, smaller.
[Illustration: The Frame of a Snowshoe in Its Usual Construction, Showing
the Crosspieces with Their Laced Fillings of Hide and the Different Parts
Named, for a Ready Reference]
As may be noted by referring to the drawing, a center opening or "toe
hole" is provided, and as the greater strain on the filling lies directly
under the ball of the foot, the shoe is reinforced at this point by the
"toe cord" running across, and the "toe-cord stays," which are tied in on
each side of the toe hole--one end being fastened to the toe cord and the
other lashed over the wooden cross bar of the frame. These reinforcing
cords are formed of several strands of hide, the stays being again wound
with finer strands.
To prevent slipping and to secure a good foothold while walking, the
manner of attaching the foot to the shoe is of importance, and this is
done by making use of a toe strap, which will allow the toe to push down
through the toe opening as the heel of the foot is lifted in the act of
walking. A second strap, or thong, leading from the top around the foot,
above the curve of the heel, is needed to lend additional support in
lifting the snowshoe, to effect the easy shambling stride characteristic
of the snowshoer.
There are, of course, a great number of models or styles, some one style
being popular in one locality, while an altogether different style is
preferred in another part of the country. The most representative types
are well shown in the illustrations, and a brief description will point
out their practical advantages, because each model possesses certain
merits--one model being designed for fast traveling in the open, another
better adapted for brush travel, while others are more convenient for use
in a hilly country where much climbing is done, and so on.
[Illustration: A: Snowshoe Experts Regard This as an Extreme Style, for
It is Long and Narrow]
Style A is regarded by snowshoe experts as an extreme style, for it is
long and narrow. It is designed for fast traveling over smooth and level
country, and over loose, powdery snow. This style is much used by the Cree
Indians, and is usually made 12 in. wide by 60 in. long, with a deeply
upcurved toe. It is a good shoe for cross-country work, but is somewhat
difficult to manage on broken trails, when the snow is packed, and also
affords rather slippery footing when crossing ice. Owing to the stout
construction of the frame and reinforcement needed to retain the high,
curved toe, style A is more difficult to manage than the more conservative
models, and its stiffness of frame makes it more fatiguing to wear, while
its use is a decided handicap in mountainous districts, because a curved
toe always makes hill climbing more difficult.
[Illustration: B: This Snowshoe is Considered the Ordinary Eastern Model
and One Best Adapted for All-Around Use]
Style B may be considered the ordinary eastern model, and a common style
best adapted for all-around use. It is a neat and gracefully designed
frame, about 12 in. wide and 42 in. long, and is usually made with a
slightly upcurving toe, about 2 in. turn at the toe being correct. When
made by the Indians of Maine, this model is fashioned with a rather heavy
heel, which is an advantage for fast walking, while it increases the
difficulty in quick turning.
[Illustration: C: The Style Illustrated Here is Splendid for General
Purposes and is a Favorite among Hunters and Woodsmen]
Style C is a favorite model among the hunters and woodsmen of New England.
This is a splendid style for general purposes in this section of the
country, since the full, round toe keeps the toe up near the surface, and
lets the heel cut down more than the narrow-toe models. Style C is an easy
shoe to wear, and while not so fast as the long, narrow frame, its full
shape is more convenient for use in the woods. It is usually made with
about 1 to 1-1/2-in. turn at the toe.
[Illustration: D: This is the Familiar "Bear's-Paw" Model, Originated by
the Northeastern Trapper for Use on Short Tramps and in Brush]
Style D is the familiar "bear's paw," a model originating with the
northeastern trapper. This model is well adapted for short tramps in
the brush, and having a flat toe, is likewise a good shoe for mountain
climbing. For tramping about in thick brush, a short, full shoe enables
one to take a shorter stride and turn more quickly, but it is a slow shoe
for straight-ahead traveling.
When purchasing a pair of snowshoes, some few important considerations
should be kept in mind, and the size and model will depend upon the man
to some extent, since a large, heavy man will require a larger snowshoe
than would suffice for a person of lighter weight. Height also enters
into the choice, and while a small person can travel faster and with less
fatigue when equipped with a proportionately small shoe, a tall man will
naturally pick out a larger-sized snowshoe for his use. For a country
where deep snows prevail, larger sizes are best, but in localities where
the snow packs solidly and there is considerable ice, and in mountainous
districts, or for rough-country traveling, the smaller sizes will give
more satisfaction and prove more durable also. For a wet-snow locality,
the center filling should be strung in rather coarse mesh, while for soft,
powdery snow, a finer mesh will be the logical choice.
There are snowshoes and snowshoes, and while there are fine models
regularly stocked by a few of the better sporting-goods firms, there is
likewise a deal of poorly made snowshoes on the market. It is well to pay
a fair price and secure a dependable handmade article, for the cheaper
snowshoes--often filled with seine twine and the cheapest hide (commonly
known in the trade as "gut")--will warp and twist in the frame, and the
shoddy filling will soon become loosened up and "bag" after a little use.
The best snowshoes that the writer is acquainted with are made by the
Indians, and the filling is ordinarily made of neat's hide; cowhide for
the center filling, and calfskin for the toe and heel. A first-class pair
of snowshoes may be had for about $6 to $7.50, and when possible to do so,
it is best to have them made to order. This plan is, of course, necessary
in case one wishes to incorporate any little wrinkles of his own into
their making, or desires a flatter toe, lighter heel, or a different mesh
from the usual stock models.
Where but one pair of snowshoes is purchased, style B will probably prove
the best selection, and should be ordered with the flat toe, or a turn not
greater than 1 in. The frame may be in either one or two pieces, depending
upon the size of the shoe and the ideas of the Indian maker, but it is
well to specify white ash for the frames in the order. No Indian maker
would be guilty of using screws or other metal fastenings, but many of
the cheap and poorly fashioned snowshoes are fastened at the heel with
screws, thus making this a decidedly weak point, since the wood is quite
certain to split after a little rough service. In contrast to the poor
workmanship of these low-priced snowshoes, the Indian-made article is
fashioned from sound and properly seasoned wood; the cross bars are snugly
fitted by mortising to the frame; the filling is tightly woven, and the
heel is properly fastened by lacing with a rawhide it is a good idea to
select a filling of good heavy weight and with a firmly woven and open
mesh, say, about 3/4 in. The toe and heel sections will, of course, be
of finer-cut hide and smaller mesh, and it is wise to avoid those shoes
employing seine twine for the end filling. Some factory-made snowshoes
are given a coat or two of varnish, but this, while serving to make them
partly waterproof, makes them rather slippery when crossing logs and ice.
Most woodsmen prefer to leave both frame and filling in their natural
condition.
The Indian-made snowshoe is always thong. However, Indian makers are
likely to make the toe small and leave the wood to form a rather heavy
heel. Some few woodsmen and sportsmen may prefer this model, but the
majority favor a fuller toe and a lighter heel for general use, because
the regulation Indian model, cutting down at toe and heel equally deep,
increases the difficulty of easy traveling over soft snow, although it is
a good shoe when used over broken trails.
When buying snowshoes at the store, see that the frames are stoutly and
well made, and for all-around use, provided with a generously large toe
hole, so that ample foot covering may be used. This point is generally
overlooked in the machine-made product, and the toe cords are also
frequently roughly formed, thus chafing the feet and making them sore.
These details may or may not prove a handicap for short tramps near town,
but for long trips through the woods, they are important considerations.
The Indian manner of tying the snowshoe to the foot by means of a single
twisted and knotted thong is a good method of attachment, in that, if the
thong is properly adjusted to the requisite snugness in the first place,
the shoes may be quickly removed by a simple twist of the ankle. A better
fastening is secured by using a fairly wide (3/4 in.) toe strap and a long
thong. The toe strap is placed over the toes, immediately over the ball
of the foot, and secured against slipping by weaving the ends in and out
between the meshes of the filling until it reaches the frame on either
side. This grips the toe strap firmly and does away with the necessity of
tying a knot. A narrow thong, about 4 ft. long, is now doubled, the center
placed just above the heel of the foot, and the ends passed under the toe
cord, just outside of the toe-cord stays on each side. The thong is then
brought up and across the toes, one end passing over and the other under
the toe strap. Each end of the thong is now looped around the crossed
thong, on either side, and then carried back over the back of the heel and
knotted with a common square or reef knot. Calfskin makes a good flexible
foot binding, or a suitable strip of folded cloth or canvas may be used.
The regulation snowshoe harness, consisting of a leather stirrup for the
toe and an instep and heel strap, will be found more comfortable than the
thong, and when once adjusted snugly to the foot, the shoes may be quickly
taken off and put on again by pushing the heel strap down, when the foot
may be slipped out of the toe stirrup.
The use of heavy leather shoes is of course undesirable, and the only
correct footwear for snowshoeing is a pair of high-cut moccasins, cut
roomy enough to allow one or more pairs of heavy woolen stockings to be
worn. The heavy and long German socks, extending halfway to the knee,
drawn on over the trouser legs, are by far the most comfortable for
cold-weather wear. The feet, thus shod, will not only be warm in the
coldest weather, but the free use of the toes is not interfered with.
Leather shoes are cold and stiff, and the heavy soles and heels, chafing
against the snowshoes, will soon ruin the filling.
Soldering and Riveting By John D. Adams
There are two simple processes that every experimenter should master:
soldering and riveting. The large soldering copper will find only a very
restricted use with the amateur on account not only of its clumsiness,
but of the fact that it requires a fire, which is often impracticable to
obtain. The experimenter should therefore construct a small alcohol lamp,
which, after a little experience, will reveal the following advantages: It
may be brought into instant use at any place; it will make a more perfect
connection; with a small blowpipe places may be reached that are entirely
inaccessible to the large iron; several small pieces may be set in
position and soldered without disturbing them, which is quite impossible
with the large iron.
To make such a lamp, procure a small wide-mouthed bottle so that very
little alcohol will be necessary and the lamp may be tipped at any
desired angle. A short piece of seamless brass tubing should be procured,
or, preferably, one of those capped brass cylinders for holding pencil
leads, the button of which should be sawn off and the cap used to keep
the alcohol from evaporating. A good, sound cork is next in order, and in
cutting the central hole, use the brass tube, which should be sharpened
around the lower end. Proceed with a rotary motion, and a clean core will
be removed. If an ordinary lamp wick is not at hand, soft cotton string
may be bundled up as a substitute. Such a lamp is safe, odorless and will
not blacken the work in the least as in the case of kerosene or gasoline.
[Illustration: (alcohol lamp)]
There are many good soldering fluxes on the market, but that obtained by
dissolving as much scrap of zinc as possible in muriatic acid will solder
practically everything that may be necessary, provided, of course, the
surfaces are filed or scraped bright. Wire solder is usually the most
convenient, as small pieces can be readily cut off and placed directly on
the work where required. A small blowpipe is often a valuable adjunct, as
it makes possible a long, narrow flame that may be directed in almost any
direction.
[Illustration: A Small Torch Made of a Penholder is Handy to Use in
Soldering Electrical Apparatus]
Where numerous small connections are to be made, as is often the case
with electrical apparatus, the small torch illustrated will be found very
convenient. It is simply an old penholder with the wood portion shortened
somewhat and the metal end filed off square and cleaned out. This is then
filled with wicking, and it is only necessary to dip it in alcohol in
order to soak up enough to solder an ordinary connection.
The second simple process, of which many fail to appreciate the usefulness
in experimental work, is that of riveting--particularly when done on a
small scale. Very often the material in hand is tempered steel and cannot,
therefore, be soldered to advantage, or it may be a case where subsequent
heating makes a heat-proof connection imperative. Then, again, the joint
may require the combined strength of both solder and rivet.
When properly set, the strength of the ordinary brass pin, when used as a
rivet, is quite great. Should the work require a particularly soft rivet,
it is only necessary to hold the pin for a moment in the flame of a match.
A somewhat larger and stronger rivet may be made by softening and cutting
to the required length the small flat-headed nails used in making cigar
boxes. The ordinary shingle nail is also of a suitable shape after the
burrs have been filed off under the head.
[Illustration]
In setting these small rivets, it is absolutely necessary that they
closely fit the holes, as at A, otherwise the result will be as indicated
at B in the sketch. Be careful not to leave too great a length for
rounding over on the metal. This extra length should approximately
equal the diameter of the rivet and must be filed flat on the top before
riveting. In case of pins, it will be found easier to cut them off to the
proper length after they are inserted. Use the smallest hammer available,
striking many light blows rather than a few heavy ones.
[Illustration: A Few Joints Where Rivets are Used to Hold the Parts
Solidly Together]
A Whistle
Cut a circular piece of tin any convenient size, preferably 3 in. in
diameter, and bend it across the diameter so that it will be in a narrow
U-shape. Then drill or punch a hole through both parts as shown. Place
it in the mouth with the open edges out, being sure to press the lips on
the metal tightly on both upper and lower pieces outside of the holes and
to rest the tongue against the edge of the tin, even with the holes, and
blow.
[Illustration]
The result of the first attempt may not be a sound, but with a little
practice any familiar tune may be whistled.--Contributed by Chas. C.
Bradley, W. Toledo, O.
Card-and-Coin Trick
If a card is balanced on the finger and a coin placed on the card directly
over the finger, one would not think that the card could be flipped out
leaving the coin on the finger end. This is easily accomplished, if care
is taken to snap the card sharply and squarely.--Contributed by R. Neland,
Minneapolis, Minn.
[Illustration]
How to Make a Costumer
With but little skill, and such tools as are ordinarily found around
a home, a plain but serviceable costumer can be made, as shown in the
sketch. The necessary materials for it are: One main post, 1-1/2 in.
square and about 6-1/2 ft. long; four legs, or foot brackets, 3/4 by 6 by
9 in.; four brass clothes hooks, and the necessary screws and varnish for
assembling and finishing.
[Illustration]
The center post should be chamfered at the top to relieve the abruptness.
The four legs should all be made alike and in some shape that allows
them to be fastened to the post in a simple manner. In the sketch, the
legs are fastened to the post by one visible screw at the top and one
put in on an incline through the bottom edge of the leg. The clothes
hooks are fastened to the post in pairs at different heights, thereby
preventing the screws of adjacent hooks from running into one another.
The finish of the costumer should be such as to match the woodwork of its
surroundings.--Contributed by Harry A. Packard, Norway, Maine.
Window Catch Used for Locking an Extension Table
To prevent the two ends of an extension table from pulling apart when not
desired, an ordinary window catch can be fastened and locked in place
to the under side of the table top with one part on each end of the
table. If but one catch is used and fastened in the center, it is best
to mark it off first, and then pull the table ends apart to fasten the
catch more easily. It may be desired to use two catches for a very heavy
table, in which case it would be best to place one on either side of the
center.--Contributed by F. M. Griswold, New York, N. Y.
Relieving Pressure on Heated Canned Foods for Opening
In opening a can of food that has been heated, the instant the cover is
punctured the steam will force out a part of the contents, which is very
annoying. To avoid this, pour a little cold water on the cover and allow
it to remain a few seconds, then turn it off and immediately puncture the
cover. This will counteract the interior force, and the can may be opened
without trouble.--Contributed by Joseph Kohlbecher, Jr., San Francisco,
Cal.
Clothespin Bag
[Illustration]
Clothespins are usually kept in a bag, and the one our home possessed had
a draw string which would always stick and hold the bag shut. The remedy
for this, and a time saver also, was to remove the draw string and insert
instead a piece of wire, which was afterward shaped to a circle with an
eyelet at the joint. The bag can be hung on a nail and the mouth is always
open to its fullest extent, yet lies flat against the wall.--Contributed
by Jas. A. Hart, Philadelphia, Pa.
[Illustration]
Snowshoes: How to Make and Use Them By Stillman Taylor
Part II--Making the Shoe
[In making the snowshoe it may be necessary to refer to the
previous chapter to select the style, or to locate the name of
the parts used in the description.--Editor.]
Snowshoe making is an art, and while few, if any, white men can equal the
Indian in weaving the intricate patterns which they prefer to employ for
filling the frames, it is not very difficult to fashion a good solid frame
and then fill it by making use of a simple and open system of meshing. For
the frames, white ash is much the best wood, but hickory and white birch
are dependable substitutes, if the former cannot be obtained. Birch is
perhaps the best wood to use when the sportsman wishes to cut and split
up his own wood, but as suitable material for the frames may be readily
purchased for a small sum, probably the majority of the readers will
elect to buy the material. Any lumber dealer will be able to supply white
ash, and it is a simple matter to saw out the frames from the board. The
sawed-out frame is inferior to the hand-split bow, but if good, selected
material can be obtained, there will be little, if any, difference for
ordinary use.
When dry and well-seasoned lumber is used, the frame may be made to the
proper dimensions, but when green wood is selected, the frame must be made
somewhat heavier, to allow for the usual shrinkage in seasoning. For a
stout snowshoe frame, the width should be about 1-1/16 in.; thickness at
toe, 7/16 in., and thickness at heel, 9/16 in. The frame should be cut
2 in. longer than the finished length desired, and in working the wood,
remember that the toe of the finished frame will be the center of the
stick; the heel, the end of the stick, and the center of the shoe will
lie halfway between the heel and toe.
[Illustration: The Design of the Snowshoe is Traced on a Board, and Blocks
are Used to Shape the Frame or Bow]
After the frames have been finished, the dry wood must be steamed before
it can be safely bent to the required shape, and before doing this, a
wooden bending form must be made. An easy way to make this form is to
first draw a pattern of the model on a sheet of paper, cut out the pencil
mark, and, placing this pattern on a board, carefully trace the design
on the wooden form. A number of cleats, or blocks, of wood will now be
needed; the inside blocks being nailed in position, but the outside stay
blocks being simply provided with nails in the holes, so they may be
quickly fastened in position when the steamed frame is ready for the form.
To make the frame soft for bending to shape, steaming must be resorted to,
and perhaps the easiest way of doing this is to provide boiling water in
a wash boiler, place the wood over the top, and soak well by mopping with
the boiling water, shifting the stick about until the fibers have become
soft and pliable. After 10 or 15 minutes of the hot-water treatment, wrap
the stick with cloth and bend it back and forth to render it more and more
pliable, then use the hot-water treatment, and repeat the process until
the wood is sufficiently soft to bend easily without splintering. The
toe being the greatest curve, must be well softened before putting on the
form, otherwise the fibers are likely to splinter off at this point. When
the frame is well softened, place it on the bending form while hot, slowly
bend it against the wooden inside blocks, and nail on the outside blocks
to hold it to the proper curve. Begin with the toe, and after fastening
the outside blocks to hold this end, finish one side, then bend the other
half to shape. The bent frame should be allowed to dry on the form for
at least a week; if removed before the wood has become thoroughly dry and
has taken a permanent set, the frame will not retain its shape. The same
bending form may be used for both frames, but if one is in a hurry to
finish the shoes, two forms should be made, and considerable pains must
be taken to make them exactly alike in every way.
[Illustration: Locate the Cross Bars by Balancing the Frame, Then Fit the
Ends in Shallow Mortises]
When the frames are dry, secure the tail end of the frame by boring three
holes about 4 in. from the end, and fasten with rawhide. The work of
fitting the two cross bars may now be undertaken, and the balance of the
snowshoe depends upon fitting these bars in their proper places. Before
cutting the mortise, spring the two bars in the frame about 15 in. apart,
and balance the shoe in the center by holding it in the hands. When the
frame exactly balances, move the bars sufficiently to make the heel about
3 oz. heavier than the toe, and mark the place where the mortises are
to be cut. The cross bars and mortise must be a good tight fit, and a
small, sharp chisel will enable the builder to make a neat job. It is not
necessary to cut the mortise very deep; 1/4 in. is ample to afford a firm
and snug mortised joint.
The lanyard to which the filling is woven is next put in, by boring pairs
of small holes in the toe and heel sections, and lacing a narrow rawhide
thong through the obliquely drilled holes. Three holes are then bored in
the cross bar--one on each side about 1-1/2 in. from the frame, and the
third in the center of the bar; the lanyard being carried through these
holes in the cross bar.
[Illustration: Begin Weaving the Toe Filling at the Corner of Cross Bar
and Frame, Carrying It Around in a Triangle until Complete]
Begin the toe filling first, by making an eye in one end of the thong,
put the end through the lanyard loop and then through the eye, thus
making a slipknot. Start to weave at the corner where the bar and frame
are mortised, carry the strand up and twist it around the lanyards in
the middle of the toe, then carry it down and make a like twist around
the lanyard loop in the opposite corner. The thong is now looped around
the next lanyard (No. 2 from the crossbar lanyard) and fastened with the
twisted loop knot illustrated. Continue the strand across the width of toe
space and make a similar loop knot on No. 2 lanyard on the starting side,
twist it around the strand first made and loop it under the next cross-bar
lanyard loop, then carry it up and twist it around the lanyard loop in the
toe of the frame, continuing in the same manner until the last lanyard
of the toe is reached, when the space is finished by making the twisted
loop knot until the space is entirely filled. It is a difficult matter to
describe by text, but the illustrations will point out the correct way,
and show the manner of making an endless thong by eye-splicing, as well as
illustrating the wooden bodkin or needle used in pulling the woven strands
taut. This bodkin is easily made from a small piece of wood, about 1/4 in.
thick, and about 2 in. long. To simplify matters, the heel may be filled
in the same manner as the toe.
[Illustration: An Endless Thong is Made with Eyes Cut in the Ends of the
Leather, and Each Part is Run through the Eye of the Other]
For the center, which must be woven strong and tight, a heavier strand of
hide must be used. Begin with the toe cord first, and to make this amply
strong, carry the strand across the frame five or six times, finishing
with a half-hitch knot, as shown, then carry it up and twist it around
the cross bar to form the first toe-cord stay.
[Illustration: The Heel Filling is Woven by Making the Connection with
the Lanyard in the Same Manner as for the Toe Filling]
As may be noted, the center section is filled by looping back and twisting
the strands as when filling the toe. However, the filling is looped around
the frame instead of a lanyard, and a clove hitch is used. A toe hole,
4 in. wide, must be provided for, and when enough of the filling has been
woven in to make this opening, the thong is no longer looped around the
cross bar, but woven through the toe cord. As the filling ends in the toe
cord, it should be woven in and out at this point several times, finishing
the toe hole by looping a strand around the cross bar at the side of the
toe hole, then passing it down the toe-cord stay by twisting around it;
then twisted around the toe cord along the filling to the other side of
the toe hole, where it is twisted around the toe-cord stay on the opposite
side, looped around the frame and ended in a clove hitch.
[Illustration: The Center must be Woven Strong and Tight, and for This
Reason a Heavier Strand of Hide must be Used]
At the first reading, it will doubtless appear difficult, but a careful
examination of the illustrations will soon show how the trick is done,
and indeed it is really a very simple matter, being one of those things
which are easier to do than it is to tell how to do them. The method of
filling has been purposely made simple, but the majority of shoes are
filled in practically the same manner, which answers quite as well as the
more intricate Indian design.
The knack of using the snowshoe is quickly mastered, providing the shoes
are properly attached, to allow the toe ample freedom to work down through
the toe hole as each foot is lifted. The shoe is, of course, not actually
lifted in the air, but rather slid along the surface, half the width
of one shoe covering the other when it is lifted in the act of walking.
At first the novice may be inclined to think snowshoes a bit cumbersome
and unwieldy, and doubt his ability to penetrate the brush. However, as
the snowshoer becomes accustomed to their use, he will experience little
if any difficulty in traveling where he wills. When making a trail in a
more or less open country, it is a good plan to blaze it thoroughly, thus
enabling one to return over the same trail, in case a fall of snow should
occur in the meantime, or drifting snow fill up and obliterate the trail
first made. When the trail is first broken by traveling over it once by
snowshoe, the snow is packed well and forms a solid foundation, and even
should a heavy fall of snow cover it, the blaze marks on tree and bush
will point out the trail, which will afford faster and easier traveling
than breaking a new trail each time one journeys in the same direction.
A well-made pair of snowshoes will stand a couple of seasons' hard use,
or last for a year or two longer for general wear. To keep them in good
shape, they should be dried out after use, although it is never advisable
to place them close to a hot fire, or the hide filling will be injured.
Jumping puts severe strain on the frame of the shoe, and while damage
may not occur when so used in deep, soft snow, it is well to avoid the
possibility of breakage. Accidents will now and then happen, to be sure,
and as a thong may snap at some unexpected moment, keep a strand or two
of rawhide on hand, to meet this emergency.
Combination Settee Rocker and Cradle
By fastening a frame with hinges to the front of a settee rocker, a
combination piece of furniture can be made, which may be used either as a
regular settee or as a cradle. For this purpose, a covered frame should
be provided, being sufficiently long to extend across the front between
the arm supports and having such a width that it will easily fit under the
arms when hinged to the seat, as shown in the illustration. To keep the
frame in position while serving as a cradle front, or when turned down for
regular use, screw hooks are placed at each end, so that, in the former
case, the frame, when swung up, can be secured in place by attaching the
hooks to screw eyes fastened under the arm supports; while, for regular
use, the frame is secured in its swung-down position by fastening the
hooks into screw eyes properly placed in the front legs.--Contributed by
Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.
[Illustration: A Settee Rocker with a Front Attachment to Make It into a
Cradle When Desired]
[Illustration]
A Snowball Thrower By Albert Bates, Jr.
The snow fort with its infantry is not complete without the artillery.
A set of mortars, or cannon, placed in the fort to hurl snowballs at the
entrenched enemy makes the battle more real. A device to substitute the
cannon or a mortar can be easily constructed by any boy, and a few of them
set in a snow fort will add greatly to the interest of the conflict.
[Illustration: The Dimensioned Parts and the Detail of the Completed
Snowball Thrower]
The substitute, which is called a snowball thrower, consists of a base, A,
with a standard, B, which stops the arm C, controlled by the bar D, when
the trigger E is released. The tripping of the trigger is accomplished by
the sloping end of D on the slanting end of the upright F. Sides, G, are
fastened on the piece F, with their upper ends extending above the bar D,
to prevent the latter from jumping out when it is released by the trigger.
The trigger E is tripped with the handle H, connected to the piece J, on
which all the working parts are mounted. The upper end of the arm C has
a piece, K, to which is attached a tin can, L, for holding the snowball
to be thrown. A set of door springs, M, furnishes the force to throw the
snowball.
[Illustration: Cannonading a Snow Fort with the Use of a Snowball Thrower]
All the parts are given dimensions, and if cut properly, they will fit
together to make the thrower as illustrated.
Springs on the Chains of a Porch Swing
Two coil springs of medium strength placed in the chains of a porch swing
will make it ride easier and also take up any unpleasant jars and rattles
occasioned when a person sits heavily in the swing. If the swing is
provided with a four-chain suspension, the springs should be used on the
two rear chains to get the best results.--Contributed by E. K. Marshall,
Oak Park, Illinois.
Homemade Water Meter
Where it is necessary to measure water in large quantities the meter
illustrated will serve the purpose as well as an expensive one, and can
be made cheaply. The vessel, or bucket, for measuring the water is made
diamond-shaped, as shown in Fig. 1, with a partition in the center to make
two pockets of a triangular shape, each holding 2 qt., or any amount of
sufficient size to take care of the flow of water.
[Illustration: When a Bucket is Filled to the Proper Amount It is Turned
Out by the Weight (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3)]
The part forming the pockets is swung on an axis fastened to the lower
part, which engages into bearings fastened to the sides of the casing, as
shown in Fig. 2. Stops, A, are placed in the casing at the right places
for each pocket to spill when exactly 2 qt. of water has run into it. It
is obvious that when one pocket is filled, the weight will tip it over
and bring the other one up under the flow of water.
The registering device consists of one or more wheels worked with pawls
and ratchets, the first wheel being turned a notch at a time by the pawl
B, Fig. 3. If each pocket holds 2 qt., the wheel is marked as shown,
as each pocket must discharge to cause the wheel to turn one notch. The
second wheel is worked by the lever and pawl C, which is driven with a pin
D located in the first wheel. Any number of wheels can be made to turn in
a like manner.--Contributed by F. A. Porter, Oderville, Utah.
A Snowball Maker
Snowball making is slow when carried on by hand, and where a thrower
is employed in a snow fort it becomes necessary to have a number of
assistants in making the snowballs. The time of making these balls
can be greatly reduced by the use of the snowball maker shown in the
illustration.
[Illustration: A Device for Making Snowballs Quickly and Perfectly
Spherical in Shape]
The base consists of a board, 24 in. long, 6-1/2 in. wide, and 1 in.
thick. A block of wood, A, is hollowed out in the center to make a
depression in the shape of a hemisphere, 2-1/2 in. in diameter and
1-1/4 in. deep. This block is nailed to the base about 1 in. from one end.
To make the dimensions come out right, fasten a block, B, 6 in. high, made
of one or more pieces, at the other end of the base with its back edge
14-1/2 in. from the center of the hemispherical depression. On top of this
block a lever, C, 20 in. long is hinged. Another block, D, is made with a
hemispherical depression like the block A, and fastened to the under side
of the lever, so that the depressions in both blocks will coincide. The
lever end is shaped into a handle.
Two uprights, E, are fastened to the back side of the block A as guides
for the lever C. A piece is fastened across their tops, and a spring
is attached between it and the lever. A curtain-roller spring will be
suitable.
In making the balls a bunch of snow is thrown into the lower depression
and the lever brought down with considerable force.--Contributed by Abbott
W. France, Chester, Pa.
An Inexpensive Bobsled
[Illustration: A Bobsled of Simple Construction Using Ordinary Barrel
Staves for the Runners]
Any boy who can drive a nail and bore a hole can have a bobsled on short
notice. The materials necessary are four good, solid barrel staves; four
blocks of wood, 4 in. long, 4 in. wide, and 2 in. thick; two pieces,
12 in. long, 4 in. wide, and 1 in. thick; one piece, 12 in. long, 2 in.
wide, and 1-3/4 in. thick; and a good board, 4 ft. long, 12 in. wide, and
1 in. thick.
The crosspieces and knees are made with the blocks and the 1-in. pieces,
12 in. long, as shown; to which the staves are nailed for runners. One of
these pieces with the runners is fastened to one end of the board, the
other is attached with a bolt in the center. The 1-3/4 by 2-in. piece,
12 in. long, is fastened across the top of the board at the front end.
A rope fastened to the knees of the front runners provides a means of
steering the sled.
The sled can be quickly made, and it will serve the purpose well when an
expensive one cannot be had.--Contributed by H. J. Blacklidge, San Rafael,
Cal.
Motor Made of Candles
[Illustration: Tallow Dripping from the Ends Alternately Lessens the
Weight of the Arms and Causes the Tube to Tip]
A tube of tin, or cardboard, having an inside diameter to receive a candle
snugly, is hung on an axle in the center that turns in bearings made of
wood. The construction of the bearings is simple, and they can be made
from three pieces of wood as shown. The tube should be well balanced.
Pieces of candle are then inserted in the ends, also well balanced. If
one is heavier than the other, light it and allow the tallow to run off
until it rises; then light the other end. The alternate dripping from
the candles will cause the tube to tip back and forth like a walking
beam. It will keep going automatically until the candles are entirely
consumed.--Contributed by Geo. Jaques, Chicago.
Kettle-Handle Support
[Illustration]
The handle of a kettle lying on the kettle rim will become so hot that it
cannot be held in the bare hand. To keep the handle fairly cool it must
be supported in an upright position. To do this, form a piece of spring
wire in the shape shown, and slip it over the kettle rim. The shape of
the extending end will hold the handle upright and away from the heat.
How to Make a Monorail Sled
A monorail sled, having a simple tandem arrangement of the runners, is
very easily constructed as follows: The runners are cut from 1-in. plank
of the size and shape given in the sketch, and are shod with strap iron,
1 in. wide and 1/4 in. thick. Round iron or half-round iron should not be
used, as these are liable to skid. The square, sharp edges of the strap
iron prevent this and grip the surface just as a skate.
[Illustration: An Exhilarating Glide Accompanied by a Buoyant Sense of
Freedom Only Obtained in the Monorail Type]
The top is a board 6 ft. long and 1 in. thick, securely fastened to the
runners as follows: Blocks are nailed, or bolted, on either side of the
upper edge of the rear runner and the top is fastened to them with screws.
The runner is also braced with strap iron, as shown. The same method
applies to the front runner, except that only one pair of blocks are used
at the center and a thin piece of wood fastened to their tops to serve as
the fifth wheel.
[Illustration: The Construction is Much More Simple Than Making a
Double-Runner Bobsled]
The hole for the steering post should be 6 in. from the front end and a
little larger in diameter than the steering post. The latter should be
rounded where it passes through the hole, but square on the upper end to
receive the steering bar, which must be tightly fitted in place.
In coasting, the rider lies full length on the board with his hands on
the steering bar. This makes the center of gravity so low that there is no
necessity for lateral steadying runners, and aside from the exhilarating
glide of the ordinary sled, the rider experiences a buoyant sense of
freedom and a zest peculiar to the monorail type. Then, too, the steering
is effected much more easily. Instead of dragging the feet, a slight
turn of the front runner with a corresponding movement of the body is
sufficient to change the direction or to restore the balance. This latter
is, of course, maintained quite mechanically, as everyone who rides a
bicycle well knows.--Contributed by Harry Hardy, Whitby, Ont.
Binding Magazines
To bind magazines for rough service, proceed as follows: Place the
magazines carefully one on top of the other in order, and space the
upper one, near the back edge, for two rivets, marking off three equal
distances, or, perhaps, the center space longer than the other two. Make
two holes through all the magazines on the marks with an awl, or drill,
then drive nails of the right length through them. Use small washers
on both ends of the nails under the head and at the point, which is cut
off and riveted over. This makes a good, serviceable binding for rough
use.--Contributed by Carl W. Lindgreen, Los Angeles, Cal.
[Illustration]
A Shellac Cement
As shellac is the basis of almost all cements, a good cement can be made
by thickening shellac varnish with dry white lead. The two may be worked
together on a piece of glass with a putty knife.
[Illustration]
A Blackboard for Children
Take a wide window shade and attach it to a roller as if hanging it to
a window. Cut it to about 3 ft. in length, hem the lower edge and insert
in the slot in the usual manner. Procure some black slate paint and cover
the shade on one side, giving it two coats. Allow sufficient time for the
first coat to dry before applying the second coat.
A blackboard of this kind is strong, and if attached to the wall
with the shade fixtures, it can be rolled out of the way when not in
use.--Contributed by Elizabeth Motz Rossoter, Colorado Springs, Col.
How to Make a Ski Staff
A ski staff will greatly assist progress over level stretches and is an
aid to the ski runner in preserving his balance. A homemade staff that is
easy to construct is shown in Fig. 1. At the upper end is a narrow leather
loop for the wrist; at the extreme lower end a spike is placed for use on
icy ground, and just above this spike is a disk, or stop, which, in deep
snow, prevents the staff from sinking in too far and gives the necessary
leverage for steering, propelling or righting oneself as needed.
[Illustration: The Staff, being Made of a Bamboo Pole, is Strong as Well
as Light (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3)]
The staff is made of a piece of bamboo pole, 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 in. in
diameter, and 4-1/2 ft. long. The leather for the loop can be made from
an old strap, shaved down thinner and cut to a width of about 1/2 in. The
stop is a disk of wood, 1/2 in. thick and 5 in. in diameter. This material
should be well-seasoned white pine or spruce and coated with shellac. A
hole is bored through the center of the disk to let it pass upward on the
staff about 6 in. Here it is fastened with two pieces of heavy wire, A and
B, Fig. 2. In this diagram, C is the staff, and D, the stop or disk. The
wire A passes through the staff below the wire B and at right angles to
it, wherefore the wire B must be bent as shown. Both wires are fastened
to the stop with staples.
The lower end of the staff, as shown in Fig. 3, is plugged with hard wood,
which is bored part way through its center to admit a wire spike. Slight
recesses are made in the sides of this hole to anchor the lead which is
poured in around the spike. The point of the latter is sharpened and then
the bamboo wound with waxed twine, or fine wire, to prevent its splitting.
* * * * *
Fine emery cloth, glued to both sides of a piece of
bristol board, makes a handy tool for cleaning the
platinum points of a vibrator.
A Game Played on the Ice
A novel and interesting winter game for young and old, described as a
novelty by a Swedish paper, is played as follows:
[Illustration: A Player in Action Ready to Spear a Ring that Hangs on the
Line between the Poles]
Two poles of convenient height are erected on the ice; if skating on a
shallow pond they may be driven through the ice and into the ground, but
if the water is deep, holes must be bored through the ice and the poles
will soon freeze solidly in them. A rope is stretched between the poles
at such a height as is suited to the size of the players, or as agreed on
to make the game more or less difficult, and on this are strung a number
of pieces of board, A, each having a ring of spring steel, B, attached
to its lower end. The purpose of the game is to run at good speed between
the poles and catch a ring on a spear, each player being entitled to make
a certain number of runs, and the winner being the one who can catch the
most rings.
The spears may be made of broom handles tapered toward one end, and
with a shield made of tin and attached at a suitable distance from the
thicker end (Pattern C). The line is fastened at the top of one pole and
run through a pulley, D, at the top of the other, thence to a weight or
line fastener. Each player should start from the same base line and pass
between the poles at such a speed that he will glide at least 100 ft. on
the other side of the poles without pushing himself forward by the aid
of the skates. Twenty runs are usually allowed each player, or 10 players
may divide into two parties, playing one against the other, etc. An umpire
will be needed to see that fair play is maintained and settle any disputes
that may arise.
An Electric Display for a Show Window
A novel window display that is very attractive, yet simple in construction
and operation, can be made in the following manner: First, make a small
watertight chamber, A, as long as the focal length of the lens to be used,
and having a glass window, B, at one end, and a small round opening, C,
at the other. In this opening is placed a cork through which a glass tube
about 2 in. long is inserted. The tube makes a smooth passage for the
stream of water flowing out of the box. Water from any source of supply
enters the chamber through the tube D, which may be a pipe or hose,
whichever is most convenient. The interior is painted a dull black.
A convenient and compact light is placed at the window end of the box. A
very good light can be made by placing an electric light with a reflector
in a closed box and fastening a biconvex lens, F, in the side facing the
window of the water box. When the electric light and the water are turned
on, the light is focused at the point where the water is issuing from the
box, and follows the course of the stream of water, illuminating it in a
pleasing manner.
[Illustration: The Arrangement of the Boxes Showing the Path of the Light
Rays through the Water]
A still better effect can be obtained by passing colored plates between
the lens F and the window B. A glass disk with sectors of different colors
may be revolved by any source of power, such as a small electric motor or
even a waterwheel turned by the flowing water.
Two or three streams of water flowing in different colors make a very
pretty display and may be produced by using two or more boxes made up in
the same manner. The apparatus should be concealed and nothing but the box
end or tube with the flowing water shown.--Contributed by Grant Linton,
Whitby, Ont.
Strainer for a Milk Pail
[Illustration]
Even though a milker may be careful, small particles of dirt, hairs,
etc., will fall into the milk pail. It is true that the milk is strained
afterward, but a large percentage of the dirt dissolves and passes
through the strainer along with the milk. The best plan to prevent
this dirt from falling into the milk is to put a piece of cheesecloth
over the pail opening, securing it there by slipping an open wire ring,
A, over the rim. The milk will readily pass through the cloth without
spattering.--Contributed by W. A. Jaquythe, Richmond, Cal.
Baking Bread in Hot Sand
A driving crew on the river wanted to move camp, but the cook objected
as he had started to bake. One of the party suggested using a modified
form of the method of baking in vogue more than a century ago, which was
to place the dough in the hot earth where a fire had been burning. So, to
help the cook out, a barrel was sawed in half and the bread, after being
properly protected, was placed in each half barrel and covered with hot
sand. Two of the men carried the half barrels on their backs. When the
new camp was reached the bread was done.--Contributed by F. B. Ripley,
Eau Claire, Wis.
How to Make Small Cams
[Illustration: Channels of the Cams Formed with Strips of Brass Soldered
to the Drum or Disk]
In making models of machinery or toy machines, cams are very often
required. A simple way of making these is to lay out the cam plate, or
drum, and then bend pieces of brass to the correct shape and solder them
in place, whereupon they may be smoothed up with a file or scraper. A cam
of this sort on a drum is shown in the sketch at A, and on a faceplate, at
B. The method is not quite as accurate as milling, but answers the purpose
in most cases.--Contributed by Chas. Hattenberger, Buffalo, N. Y.
Display Holder for Coins
[Illustration: Two Pieces of Glass Inclosing between Them Coins of the
Same Size and Thickness]
If the luster of coins fresh from the mint is to be preserved, they must
be immediately placed so as to be protected against contact with the
hands. A good holder that will display both sides of a coin can be made
of two pieces of glass, BB, between which is placed a cardboard cut as
shown at A. The cardboard should be about the same thickness as the coins.
The glass may be framed by using strips of wood rabbeted to receive the
edges of both pieces; or their edges may be bound with passe-partout
tape. Even when a frame is used, it is best to bind the edges as this will
prevent tarnish from the air. Old negative glass is suitable for making
the holder.--Contributed by R. B. Cole, New Haven, Conn.
Holder for Skates while Sharpening
The base of the holder is cut from a board and should be about 3 in.
longer than the skate. Two clamps are cut as shown at A, from metal of
sufficient thickness to hold the skate firmly, then bent to shape and
attached to the baseboard with bolts having wing nuts, as shown at B and
C.
[Illustration: The Holder Provides a Way to Grind a Slight Curve in the
Edge of a Skate Blade]
One edge of the board is provided with two pins, D and E, solidly
fastened, which are of sufficient height to bring the center of the blade
on a level with the grinder axle. An adjusting screw, F, is provided
for the grinder base to adjust the skate blade accurately. The support
G is for use on baseboards where skates with strap heels, H, are to be
sharpened. The shape of the clamp for this support is shown at J.
When the skate is securely clamped to the base the blade can be easily
"hollow ground" or given a slight curve on the edge.--Contributed by C.
G. Smith, Brooklyn, N. Y.
A Homemade Direct-View Finder for Cameras
Every hand camera and most of the tripod cameras are equipped with finders
of one type or another, and usually one in which the image of the field
is reflected upward on a small ground glass--being, in fact, a miniature
camera obscura. The later and generally more approved style of finder has
a small concave lens conveniently set on the outer edge of the camera.
When this direct-vision type of finder is used, the camera is held so that
the finder is at the height of the eye, a condition that is particularly
desirable. When in a crowd, of course, the professional and many amateurs
are familiar with the method of holding the camera inverted over the head
and looking up into the finder to determine the range of the field. Even
this method is inconvenient, often impractical.
The up-to-date newspaper photographer insists on having his camera
equipped with direct finders, as it saves him much trouble and many
failures. Anyone with a little ingenuity can change one of the old-type
finders into a combination device, either direct or indirect. The sketches
are self-explanatory, but it may be said that Fig. 1 represents a box
camera with a regulation finder set in one corner of the box. To make it
a direct finder, a small brass hinge is used. Cut off part of one wing,
leaving a stub just long enough to be attached to the front of the camera
directly above the lens of the finder and so as not to interfere with it,
and high enough to permit the other wing to be turned down on the ground
glass, with space allowed for the thin glass mirror A, that is to be glued
to the under side of the long wing. The joint of the hinge should work
quite stiffly in order to keep it from jarring out of any position in
which it may be set.
[Illustration: Two Types of Ordinary View Finders and Methods of
Converting Them into Direct-View Finders]
If the wing is turned upward at an angle of 45 deg., the finder can be
used as a direct-vision instrument when held at the height of the eyes.
The image reflected from the small mirror is inverted, but this is no
disadvantage to the photographer. The small pocket mirror given out for
advertising purposes serves very well for making the reflecting mirror.
The finder shown in Fig. 2 is another very common kind, and one that
is readily converted into the direct type by inserting a close-fitting
mirror, B, on the inside of the shield to be used as a reflector of
the finder image. If the mirror is too thick, it may interfere with the
closing of the shield, though in many cases this is not essential, but
if it should be necessary to close down the shield in order to fold the
camera, it can usually be readjusted to accommodate the mirror.
A Non-Rolling Spool
Bend a piece of wire in the shape shown in the illustration and attach
it to a spool of thread. The ends of the wire should clamp the spool
slightly and the loop in the wire will keep it from rolling. Place the
end of the thread through the loop in the wire and it will not become
tangled.--Contributed by J. V. Loeffler, Evansville, Ind.
[Illustration]
How to Make a Cartridge Belt
Procure a leather belt, about 2-1/2 in. wide and long enough to reach
about the waist, also a piece of leather, 1 in. wide and twice as long
as the belt. Attach a buckle to one end of the belt and rivet one end of
the narrow piece to the belt near the buckle. Cut two slits in the belt,
a distance apart equal to the diameter of the cartridge. Pass the narrow
leather piece through one slit and back through the other, thus forming a
loop on the belt to receive a cartridge. About 1/4 in. from the first loop
form another by cutting two more slits and passing the leather through
them as described, and so on, until the belt has loops along its whole
length.
[Illustration: Two Pieces of Leather of Different Widths Forming a Belt
for Holding Cartridges]
The end of the narrow leather can be riveted to the belt or used in the
buckle as desired, the latter way providing an adjustment for cartridges
of different sizes.--Contributed by Robert Pound, Lavina, Mont.
Removing Iodine Stains
A good way to chemically remove iodine stains from the hands or linen is
to wash the stains in a strong solution of hyposulphite of sodium, known
as "hypo," which is procurable at any photographic-supply dealer's or drug
store.
There is no danger of using too strong a solution, but the best results
are obtained with a mixture of 1 oz. of hypo to 2 oz. of water.
Bed-Cover Fasteners
The arrangement shown in the sketch is easily made and will keep the bed
covers in place. The covers are provided with eyelets, either sewed, A,
or brass eyelets, B, 6 or 8 in. apart along the edge. A wood strip, C, 3
by 1-1/2 in., is cut as long as the width of the bed and fastened to the
frame with wire, bolts, or wedges. Screwhooks, about 1-1/4 in. long, are
turned into the strip so that they will match with the eyelets placed
in the covers. Thus the covers will be kept in place when the bed is
occupied, and the bed is also easily made up.--Contributed by Warren E.
Crane, Cleveland, O.
[Illustration: The Hooks Prevent the Covers from Slipping Off the Sleeper
and Keep Them Straight on the Bed]
Collar Fasteners
[Illustration]
An excellent fastener to be used on soft collars can be assembled from an
ordinary paper fastener and two shoe buttons of the desired color. This
device keeps the soft collar in good shape at the front, and serves the
purpose just as well as a more expensive collar fastener. The illustration
shows how it is used.--Contributed by B. E. Ahlport, Oakland, Cal.
Operating a Bathroom Light Automatically
A device for automatically turning an electric light on and off when
entering and leaving the room is illustrated in the sketch. A pull-chain
lamp socket is placed upon the wall or ceiling, and is connected to a
screw hook in the door by a cord and several rubber bands, as shown.
[Illustration: Operating the Electric Lamp Switch or Key by the Opening
of the Door]
When the door is opened, the lamp is lit, and when leaving the room the
opening of the door again turns it out. The hook should be placed quite
close to the edge of the door, to reduce the length of the movement, and
even then it is too much for the length of the pull required to operate
the switch, hence the need of the rubber bands.
The lamp chain pulls out just 1 in., and consequently the lamp is lit when
the door is opened part way; and swinging the door farther only stretches
the rubber. This is an advantage, however, because the lamp is sure to
light regardless of the swing of the door. If no rubber were used, the
door would have to open just a certain distance each time.
If the cord is connected to the hook with a loop or a ring, it may be
easily disconnected during the day when not needed. A light coil spring
may be used in place of the rubbers.--Contributed by C. M. Rogers, Ann
Arbor, Michigan.
A Finger-Ring Trick
[Illustration]
A coin soldered to some inexpensive ring, or a piece of brass cut from
tubing, will make an interesting surprise coin for friends. The ring when
placed on the middle finger with the coin in the palm makes the trick
complete. Ask some one if he has ever seen such a coin, or say it is a
very old one, as the date is almost worn away. He will try to pick it up,
but will find it fast to the finger.--Contributed by Wm. Jenkins, New York
City.
Preventing Marks from Basting Threads on Wool
In making up woolen garments it is necessary to press portions of them
before removing the basting threads. Sometimes the marks of the basting
threads show after the pressing. This can be avoided by using silk thread
for basting instead of the usual cotton thread. The silk thread will not
leave any marks.--Contributed by L. Alberta Norrell, Gainesville, Ga.
* * * * *
Cranberries will keep fresh for weeks if placed in
water in a cool place.
Skating Merry-Go-Round By Henry Burich
After once making and using the ice merry-go-round as illustrated, no pond
will be complete unless it has one or more of these devices. To construct
an amusement device of this kind, select a good pole that will reach to
the bottom of the pond. The measurement can be obtained by cutting a hole
in the ice at the desired place and dropping in a line weighted on one
end. A sufficient length of the pole should be driven into the bottom of
the pond to make it solid and allow the upper end to project above the
surface of the ice at least 4 feet.
A turning crosspiece for the upper end of the pole is made as follows:
First prepare the end of the pole by sawing it off level, then cutting
off the bark and making it round for a metal ring which should be driven
on tightly. A pin, about 3/4 in. in diameter, is then driven into a
hole bored in the end of the pole. The crosspiece is made of 2 by 6-in.
material, at least 18 ft. long. A hole is bored in the center to receive
the pin in the pole end.
[Illustration: Skaters Holding the Rope Ends are Drawn Around in a Circle
Rapidly by the Revolving Crosspiece, Turned near the Center by Other
Skaters]
The crosspiece is easily pushed around the pole and the faster it goes
the closer to the center the pushers can travel. Ropes can be tied to the
ends of the crosspiece for the skaters to hold on to as they are propelled
around in a circle.
Relieving Air Pressure When Closing Record Boxes
The ordinary pasteboard boxes for holding phonograph records are very
hard to close, due to the air pressure on the inside. I overcome
this difficulty by making three small holes in the cover with a
pin.--Contributed by Robert Bandul, New Orleans, La.
A Steering Sled
[Illustration: The Extra Runner in Front is Pivoted, and When Turned,
Guides the Sled]
An ordinary hand sled can be easily converted into a sled that can be
guided like a bobsled by the addition of one extra runner. To attach this
runner, a piece of wood is fastened to the under side and in the center
at the front end of the sled top. A runner with a crosspiece on top is
pivoted to the extending wood piece, which should be of a length to make
the position comfortable when the coaster, sitting on the sled top, has
his feet on the ends of the crosspiece. Careful measurements should be
made to have the lower edge of the runner on a level with or a little
lower than the sled runners.
To Hold a Straw Hat on the Head
[Illustration: The Rubber Bands are Linked Like a Lock Stitch and Fastened
in the Band]
On windy days it is almost impossible to make a straw hat stay on the
head. To avoid this trouble, place rubber bands through the sweatband.
Before inserting, make them into loops, as shown, and draw enough to be
comfortable to the head. This device will save a good many steps when the
wind blows.--Contributed by T. D. Hall, Fort Worth, Texas.
Carrying Fishhooks in a Cane Pole
The person using a cane pole for fishing can easily provide a place for
the hooks and sinkers in the first large joint of the pole. Cut the cane
off just above the first large joint, and it will leave a space, 4 or
5 in. long, which can be used for the hooks and sinkers. A cork is fitted
in the end, to hold them in place.--Contributed by Victor E. Carpenter,
South Bend, Ind.
Drying Small Laundered Articles
Where mechanical drying is not in use it takes considerable time to hang
out a number of handkerchiefs, laces, collars, etc., and very often the
wind will blow away many of them. The task of drying these articles is
made light by using a bag of mosquito netting with the articles placed in
it and hung on a line. The air can pass through the netting and when the
articles are dry it does not take long to take them out.--Contributed by
Edward P. Braun, Philadelphia, Pa.
Decorative Wood Panels
Procure an unplaned board that is deeply scored by the teeth of the saw
and mark an outline of the desired figure on its surface. Sandpaper the
background lightly, cut in a moon and smooth down the tree trunks. The
background can be smoothed with a sharp chisel, or large portions planed,
but in all cases leave the foliage rough.
Finish the surfaces with oils or stains, applying colors to suit the
parts; a piece of dried red cedar, oiled, will produce a warm red, and a
green red cedar, oiled, becomes soft yellow, each producing a very pretty
effect. These panels offer unlimited opportunity for originality in design
and color finishing of different woods.--Contributed by Mrs. Wm. Donovan,
Seattle, Wash.
[Illustration: The Designs are Worked into the Unfinished Surface of
Boards with Sandpaper, Sharp Chisels and a Plane, and Then Colored with
Dyes to Produce the Desired Effect]
Fishing-Rod Making and Angling By Stillman Taylor
Part I--A One-Piece Casting Rod
The pleasures of outdoor life are most keenly enjoyed by those sportsmen
who are familiar with all the little tricks--the "ins and outs"--of the
open. It is the active participation in any chosen sport which makes the
sport well worth while, for the enjoyment gleaned from little journeys
to forest and stream largely rests with the outer's own knowledge of his
sport. Not all of the fun of fishing lies in the catching of the fish,
since the satisfaction which comes through handling a well-balanced rod
and tackle must be reckoned the chief contributor to the outing. In other
words, the pleasures of fishing do not depend so much upon the number of
fish caught, as the manner in which the person fishes for them. The rod is
naturally the first and important consideration in the angler's kit, and
it is the purpose of these articles to set forth, at first, a few hints
which my own long experience leads me to think may be of some assistance
to those anglers who enjoy making and repairing their own rods and
tackle, to be followed, later, by some suggestions on the art of angling
generally. The hints given are merely my own methods, and while they may
not be the best way of accomplishing the desired end, a good fishing rod
may be constructed. Like the majority of amateurs, I have achieved the
desired results with a few common tools, namely, a saw, plane, jackknife,
file, and sandpaper. These simple tools are really all that is needed to
turn out a serviceable and well-finished rod of excellent action.
Kind of Material
The great elasticity and durability of the split-cane or split-bamboo rod
cannot be easily disputed. The handmade split bamboo is unquestionably
the best rod for every kind of fishing, but it is also the most expensive
and the most difficult material for the amateur to work. In making the
first rod or two, the beginner will be better satisfied with the results
in making a good solid-wood rod. Of course, glued-up split-bamboo butts,
joints, and tip stock may be purchased, and if the angler is determined
to have only bamboo, it is advisable to purchase these built-up sections
rather than to risk certain failure by attempting to glue the cane.
However, there are several good woods particularly well adapted for rod
making, and while slightly inferior to the finest bamboo in elasticity and
spring, the carefully made solid-wood rod is good enough for any angler
and will probably suit the average fisherman as well as any rod that can
be purchased.
Bethabara, or washaba, a native wood of British Guinea, makes a fine rod,
but it is a heavy wood, very hard, and for this reason is perhaps less
desirable than all other woods. With the single exception of snakewood
it is the heaviest wood for rod making and is only used for short
bait-casting rods. Possessing considerable strength Bethabara can be
worked quite slender, and a 5-ft. casting tip can be safely made of 5 oz.
weight.
Greenheart, a South American wood, is popular alike with manufacturers
and amateur rod makers, and 90 per-cent of the better class of solid-wood
rods are made of this material. It resembles Bethabara in color, but
is lighter in weight, although it apparently possesses about the same
strength and elasticity. In point of fact, there is little, if any, choice
between these woods, and providing sound and well-selected wood is used,
the merits of a rod made of Bethabara or greenheart are more likely to
be due to the careful workmanship of the maker than to the variety of the
wood used.
Dagame, or dagama, a native of the forests of Cuba, is in many respects
the ideal material for rod making, as it has strength and elasticity.
This wood is straight-grained and free from knots, which makes it easily
worked; it polishes well and is durable. While there is always more or
less difficulty about procuring first-class Bethabara and greenheart,
dagame of good quality is easily obtained.
Lancewood is much used in turning out the cheaper grades of fishing
rods, but it is somewhat soft and has a marked tendency to take set under
the strain of fishing and warp out of shape. It is less expensive than
the other woods, and while it has a straight and even grain, there are
numerous small knots present which make this material less satisfactory
to work than the other woods. For heavy sea rods, lancewood may serve the
purpose fairly well, but for the smaller fishing tools this material is
inferior to Bethabara, greenheart, and dagame. Other woods are often used,
and while a good rod may be frequently made from almost any of them, the
three mentioned are held in the highest esteem by the angling fraternity.
For the first rod, the amateur will make no mistake in selecting
dagame, whether the slender fly rod or the more easily constructed short
bait-casting tool is to be made.
The Necessary Tools
The construction of a thoroughly well-made and nicely balanced rod is
more a matter of careful work than outfit, but a few suitable tools will
greatly facilitate the labor. A good firm workbench, or table, 4 ft. or
more in length, will be needed. A regulation bench vise will come in
handy, but one of the small iron vises will do very well. A couple of
iron planes, one of medium size for rough planing-up work, and a small
4-in. block plane for finishing, will be required. As the cutters of
the planes must be kept as sharp as possible to do good work, a small
oilstone--preferably one in a wood case with cover to keep out dust--will
be needed; a coarse single-cut mill file about 16 in. long; a few sheets
of No. 1 and No. 0 sandpaper; a sheet or two of fine emery cloth; a small
thin "back" or other saw, and a steel cabinet scraper.
[Illustration: Two Tools for Gauging the Diameter of the Rods, and a
Homemade Scraper (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3)]
A caliper of some kind is a necessity, and while the best is a micrometer,
Fig. 1, registering to a thousandth part of an inch, as well as indicating
8ths, 16ths, 32ds, and 64ths, this tool is somewhat expensive, but a
very good caliper may be had in the sliding-arm type, Fig. 2, with the
scale graduated to 64ths and taking work up to 2 in. in diameter. Cheaper
measuring gauges are to be had in plenty, but as the brass and boxwood
scales are provided only with coarse graduations, the better quality of
mechanics' tools will give better satisfaction.
[Illustration: (Fig. 4)]
The set of grooved planes used by the professional rod makers are rather
expensive, although they are most convenient for quickly rounding up the
rod to the desired diameter. However, the beginner may dispense with the
planes by making the tool illustrated in Fig. 3. To make this handy little
tool purchase a steel wood scraper, such as cabinetmakers use, and file a
series of grooves along the edges with a round file. File at right angles
to the steel, finishing up with a finer file to give a sharp cutting edge.
The tool thus made is very handy for scraping the rod after it has been
roughly rounded with the plane. Its use will be mentioned later on in the
description.
Five-Foot Bait-Casting Rod
The short one-piece bait-casting rod with but one ferrule is the easiest
rod to make, and for this reason the beginner will do well to select this
popular type for the first attempt. As the total length of the rod is to
measure 5 ft., exclusive of the agate tip, the wood should be 1 or 2 in.
longer to allow for cutting down to 60 inches.
Having selected a good strip of dagame, 5/8 in. square, run the plane
along each side and from both ends. This will determine the direction
in which the grain runs. Drill two holes at the end decided upon for the
butt, spacing them about 1/4 in. from the end, as shown in Fig. 4. Drive
a stout brad in the corner of the bench top and hook the butt end over
the nail. By rigging the stick up in this manner it will be securely held,
and planing may be done with the grain with greater ease and accuracy than
when the end of the stick is butted up against a cleat nailed to the bench
top.
The wood should be planed straight and true from end to end and calipered
until it is 1/2 in. square. It may appear crooked, but this need not
trouble one at this stage of the work, since it may be made perfectly
straight later on. Overlook any kinks, and do not attempt to straighten
the stick by planing more from one side than the other. The chief thing
to be done is to fashion a square stick, and when the caliper shows the
approximate diameter, draw crosslines at the ends to find the center.
The length of the hand grasp should be marked out. If a double grasp
is wanted, allow 12 in. from the butt end. This will afford an 11-in.
hand grasp after sawing off the end in which the holes were drilled.
For a single hand grasp make an allowance of 11 in. However, the double
grasp--with cork above and below the reel seat--is preferred by most
anglers because it affords a better grip for the hand when reeling in the
line. Mark the hand-grasp distance by running a knife mark around the rod
12 in. from the butt end.
[Illustration: Diagram or Layout for a One-Piece Bait-Casting Rod, Showing
Calipered Dimensions for Each Six Inches of Length. A Paper Pattern of Any
Rod may be Drawn Up, Providing the Amateur Rod Maker Has a Rod to Use for
a Pattern, or Possesses the Exact Diameter of the Rod at Intervals of Six
Inches along Its Length (Fig. 5)]
Lay out a diagram showing the full length of the rod by placing a
strip of paper--the unprinted back of a strip of wall paper is just the
thing--on the bench and drawing two lines from the diameter of the butt
to that of the tip. While the caliber of casting rods differs somewhat,
the dimensions given will suit the average angler, and I would advise
the beginner to make the rod to these measurements. For the butt, draw a
line, exactly 1/2 in. long, across the paper and from the center of this
line run a straight pencil mark at right angles to the tip end, or 60 in.
distant, at which point another crossline is drawn, exactly 1/8 in. long,
to represent the diameter. Connect the ends of these two crosslines to
make a long tapering form. Divide this pattern into eight equal parts,
beginning at 12 in. from the butt end, marking a crossline at every 6 in.
This layout is shown exaggerated in Fig. 5. If it is desired to copy a
certain rod, find the diameter at the several 6-in. stations with the
caliper and write them down at the corresponding sections of the paper
diagram. However, if a splendid all-around casting rod is desired, it is
perfectly safe to follow the dimensions given in Fig. 5, which show the
manner of dividing the paper pattern into the equal parts and the final
diameter of the rod at each 6-in. station, or line.
[Illustration: Gauge Made of Sheet Brass Having Slots Corresponding in
Length and Width with the Caliper-Layout Measurements (Fig. 6)]
Procure a small strip of thin brass, or zinc, and file nine slots on one
edge to correspond in diameter with the width of the horizontal lines
which indicate the diameter of the rod on the pattern. This piece is shown
in Fig. 6. By making use of the pattern and the brass gauge, the rod may
be given the desired taper and the work will proceed more quickly than if
the caliper is alone relied upon to repeatedly check up the work.
When a good layout of the work is thus made, the next step is to carefully
plane the stick so that it will be evenly tapered in the square. Plane
with the grain and from the butt toward the tip end, and make frequent
tests with caliper and gauge, noting the diameter every 6 in. Mark all
the thick spots with a pencil, and plane lightly to reduce the wood to
the proper diameter. Reduce the stick in this manner until all sides have
an even taper from the butt to the tip. The stick should now be perfectly
square with a nice, even taper. Test it by resting the tip end on the
floor and bending it from the butt end. Note the arch it takes and see if
it resumes its original shape when the pressure is released. If it does,
the elasticity of the material is as it should be, but if it remains bent
or takes "set," the wood is very likely to be imperfectly seasoned and the
rod should be hung up in a warm closet, or near the kitchen stove, for a
few weeks, to season.
To facilitate the work of planing the stick to shape, a length of pine
board with a groove in one edge will be found handy. A 5-ft. length of
the ordinary tongue-and-groove board, about 1 in. thick, will be just the
thing. As the tip of the rod is smaller than the butt, plane the groove
in the board to make it gradually shallower to correspond to the taper of
the rod. Nail this board, with the groove uppermost, to the edge of the
workbench, and place the rod in the groove with one of the square corners
up, which can be easily taken off with the finely set plane. Plane off the
other three corners in a like manner, transforming the square stick into
one of octagon form. This part of the work should be carefully done, and
the stick frequently calipered at each 6-in. mark, to obtain the proper
taper. It is important to make each of the eight sides as nearly uniform
as the caliper and eye can do it. Set the cutter of the small plane very
fine, lay the strip in the groove and plane off the corner the full length
of the stick, then turn another corner uppermost and plane it off, and so
on, until the stick is almost round and tapering gradually from the mark
of the hand grasp to the tip.
To make the rod perfectly round, use the steel scraper in which the
grooves were filed and scrape the whole rod to remove any flat or uneven
spots, and finish up by sandpapering it down smooth.
The action of the rod differs with the material used, and in trying out
the action, it is well to tie on the tip and guides and affix the reel
by a string in order to try a few casts. If the action seems about right,
give the rod a final smoothing down with No. 0 sandpaper.
[Illustration: The Four Different Types of Hand Grasps Are a Wood Sleeve
Bored to Fit the Butt of the Rod; the Built-Up Cork over a Wood Sleeve;
a Cane-Wound Grasp, and the Double Cord-Wound Grasps with a Reel Seat
between Them (Fig. 7)]
For the hand grasp nothing is so good as solid cork, and while hand grasps
may be purchased assembled, it is a simple matter to make them. In Fig. 7
are shown four kinds of handles, namely, a wood sleeve, or core, A, bored
to fit the butt of the rod and shaped for winding the fishing cord; a
built-up cork grasp, B, made by cementing cork washers over a wood sleeve,
or directly to the butt of the rod; a cane-wound grip, C, mostly used for
salt-water fishing, and the double-wound grip, D, made in one piece, then
sawed apart in the center, the forward grip being glued in place after
the reel seat is in position.
To make a grip, select a number of cork washers, which may be obtained
from dealers in the wholesale drug trade, or from any large fishing-tackle
dealer. Make a tool for cutting a hole in their centers from a piece of
tubing, or an old ferrule of the required diameter, by filing one edge
sharp, then covering the other end with several thicknesses of cloth. Turn
this tube around in the cork like a wad cutter. If the cutter is sharp,
a nice clean cut will result, but the opposite will likely occur if an
attempt is made to hammer the tube through the cork.
Having cut the butt end of the rod off square, about 1 in. from the end,
or enough to remove the holes, smear a little hot glue on the end, drop
a cork washer over the tip of the rod and work it down to the butt. Cut
another cork, give the first one a coat of glue, slip the former over the
tip and press the two together, and so on, until about 10 corks have been
glued together in position. This will give a hand grasp a trifle over
5 in. long.
[Illustration: The Corks Glued in Place on the Butt and the Wood Sleeve,
or Reel-Seat Core, Ready to Slide Down and Glue in Position (Fig. 8)]
A sleeve will be needed for the reel seat to slip over, and a soft-wood
core of this sort can be purchased from any dealer in rod-making
materials, or it can be made at home. For the material procure a piece of
white pine, about 3/4 in. in diameter and 5 in. long. A section sawed from
a discarded curtain roller will serve the purpose well. Bore a 15/32-in.
hole through the piece and plane down the outside until it slips inside
the reel seat. It should be well made and a good fit, and one end tapered
to fit the taper of the reel seat, while the opposite end should be about
1/4 in. shorter than the reel seat. Slide this wood sleeve down the rod,
as shown in Fig. 8, coat the rod and the upper part of the last cork with
glue and force the sleeve tightly in place. A day or two should be allowed
for the glue to set and thoroughly dry, before giving the hand grasp the
final touches.
If a lathe is at hand, the hand grasp may be turned to any desired shape,
but most anglers prefer a cylindrical-shaped grip, leaving the top cork
untrimmed to form a kind of shoulder when the metal reel seat is pressed
into the cork. If corks of 1-1/4-in. diameter are purchased, but little
trimming will be necessary to work the hand grasp down to 1-1/16 in. in
diameter. This size seems to fit the average hand about right. The lower
corks will need a little trimming to fit the taper of the butt cap so that
it may fit snugly in place. Cement the butt cap in place by heating the
cap moderately hot, then rub a little of the melted ferrule cement inside
the cap, and force it over the cork butt. When the cement has hardened,
drive a small brass pin or brad through the cap, and file the ends off
flush with the metal surface. All the guides, ferrules, and reel seat are
shown in Fig. 9.
The regulation metal reel seat is about 4-1/2 in. long, and in fitting it
to the old type of bait rod, the covered hood is affixed to the upper end
of the reel seat. This arrangement is satisfactory enough for the 9-ft.
bait rod, but it is rather awkward in fitting it to the short bait-casting
rod, as with the hood at the upper end the reel is pushed so far forward
that it leaves 1 in. or more of the reel seat exposed, and the hand must
grip this smooth metal instead of the cork. To avoid this, it is best to
cut the reel seat down to 3-7/8 in. and affix the reel seat to the rod
with the hood at the lower end near the hand. For a single hand grasp, a
tapered winding check will be needed to make a neat finish and this should
be ordered of the correct diameter to fit the reel seat at the lower end
and the diameter of the rod at the other. In the double hand grasp the
winding check is used to finish off the upper end of the cork, which is
tapering to fit the rod at this point.
In assembling the reel seat, push it with the hooded end well down and
work it into the cork to make a tight waterproof joint. Push the reel
seat up the rod, coat the sleeve with cement and push the reel seat home.
Drive a small pin through the hooded end and reel seat to make the whole
rigid. This pin should not be driven through the rod or it will weaken it
at this point. Just let it enter the wood a short distance to prevent the
reel seat from turning.
The upper or double grasp is fashioned after the reel seat is in position,
and the corks are cemented on and pushed tightly together in the same
manner as used in forming the lower grasp. The first cork should be
pressed tightly against the upper end of the reel seat and turned about so
that the metal may enter the cork and form a tight joint. As many corks as
are required to form a grip of proper length are in turn cemented to each
other and the rod. After the glue has become dry, the cork may be worked
down and tapered to make a smooth, swelled grasp. The winding check is
now cemented on, to make a neat finish between the upper grip and the rod.
Before affixing the guides, go over the rod with fine sandpaper, then
wet the wood to raise the grain, and repeat this operation, using old
sandpaper. If an extra-fine polish is wanted, rub it down with powdered
pumice and oil, or rottenstone and oil, and finish off with an oiled rag.
To fit the agate tip, file down the end of the rod with a fine-cut file
until it is a good fit in the metal tube. Melt a little of the ferrule
cement and smear a little on the tip of the rod, then push the agate down
in place.
Spar varnish is often used to protect the rod, but extra-light coach
varnish gives a better gloss, and it is as durable and waterproof as any
varnish. It is only necessary to purchase a quarter pint of the varnish,
as a very small quantity is used. The final varnishing is, of course, done
after the rod has been wound and the guides are permanently whipped in
position. However, it is an excellent idea to fill the pores of the wood
by rubbing it over with a cloth saturated in the varnish before the silk
whippings are put on. Merely fill the cells of the wood and wipe off all
surplus, leaving the rod clean and smooth.
The guides may now be fastened in place, and for the 5-ft. rod, but two of
them are necessary. The first guide should be placed 19-1/2 in. from the
metal taper which finishes off the upper hand grasp, and the second guide
spaced 15-1/2 in. from the first. By spacing the guides in this manner,
the line will run through them with the least possible friction.
Winding, or Whipping, the Rod
Before whipping on the guides, take a fine file and round off the sharp
edges of the base to prevent the possibility of the silk being cut.
Measure off the required distances at which the guides are to be affixed,
and fasten them in position by winding with a few turns of common thread.
Ordinary silk of No. A size may be used, but No. 00 is the best for
small rods. Most anglers agree that the size of the silk to use for the
whippings should be in proportion to the size of the rod--heavy silk for
the heavy rod, and fine silk for the small rod. Size A is the finest silk
commonly stocked in the stores, but one or more spools of No. 00 and No.
0 may be ordered from any large dealer in fishing tackle. As a rule, size
0 gives a more workmanlike finish to the butt and joints of fly and bait
rods, while No. 00 is about right to use for winding the tips. In fact,
all rods weighing up to 6 oz. may be whipped with No. 00 size.
[Illustration: The Mountings Used on a Bait-Casting Rod Consist of a Reel
Seat, Butt Cap, Taper Sleeve, Narrow Agate Guide, Agate Offset Top, One
Ring Guide, and a Welted, Shouldered Ferrule (Fig. 9)]
In whipping the rod, the so-called invisible knot is used. Begin the
whipping, as shown at E, Fig. 10, by tucking the end under the first coil
and holding it with the left thumb. The spool of silk is held in the
right hand and the rod is turned to the left, sufficient tension being
kept on the silk so that it can be evenly coiled with each strand tightly
against the other. A loop of silk, some 4 in. long, is well waxed and
placed so that its end will project a short distance beyond the last coil
which finishes the whipping. This detail is shown at F. In whipping on
guides, begin the whipping at the base and work over the pointed end of
the flange, winding on sufficient silk to extend about 1/8 in. beyond the
pointed flange of the guide base. When the last coil is made, cut off the
thread from the spool and tuck the end under the whipping by pulling on
the ends of the waxed loop, as shown at G. Cut off the ends neatly with
a sharp knife.
[Illustration: Both Ends of the Silk Thread are Placed under the Winding
to Form an Invisible Knot (Fig. 10)]
For colors, bright red and a medium shade of apple green are the best,
since these colors keep their original tint after varnishing, and are
less likely to fade than the more delicate shades. Red finished off with a
narrow circle of green always looks well, and red with yellow is likewise
a good combination. Narrow windings look much better than wide whippings,
and a dozen turns make about as wide a winding as the angler desires. For
edgings, three or four turns of silk are about right, and these should
be put on after the wider windings have been whipped on and in the same
manner, although it is best to tuck the ends of the edging beneath the
wider winding when pulling the end through to make the invisible knot.
Varnishing the Rod
After winding the rod, see that all fuzzy ends are neatly clipped off,
then go over the silk windings with a coat of shellac. The shellac can
be made by dissolving a little white shellac in grain alcohol. Warm the
shellac and apply it with a small camel's-hair brush, giving the silk only
two light coats. Allow the rod to stand a couple of days for the shellac
to become thoroughly dry.
A small camel's-hair brush will be required for the varnishing--one about
1/2 in. wide will do. If the varnishing is to be done out of doors, a
clear and warm day should be selected, and the can of coach varnish should
be placed in a pot of hot water for five minutes, so that the varnish will
spread evenly. A temperature of about 75 deg. is best for this work, as
the varnish will not spread if cold or in a cold place. The varnish should
be evenly brushed on, and care taken that no spots are left untouched.
Hang up by the tip to dry in a room free from dust. While the varnish
will set in four or five hours, it is a good plan to allow three days for
drying between coats. Two coats will suffice to protect the rod, but as
coach varnish, properly applied, is rather thin in body, three coats will
give complete protection to the wood.
The materials required for this rod are,
1 dagame or greenheart stick, 5 ft. long and 5/8 in. square;
1 reel seat with straight hood, 3/4 in.;
1 butt cap, 1 in.; 1 taper, small end 15/32 in.;
1 offset, or angle, agate top, 3/32 in., and 2 narrow agate guides,
1/2 in., all in German silver;
2 doz. corks, 1-1/4 by 1-1/8 in.,
and two 50-yd. spools of silk, red and green, 00 size.
Automatic Watering System for Poultry Yards
Where a large number of poultry is cared for, the annoyance and attention
necessary to furnish a constant water supply can be overcome by using the
system shown in the illustration. For this purpose a storage tank must be
provided. This may be some old toilet flush tank, or any open reservoir
that will hold sufficient water to keep all the drinking pans supplied. A
float is provided and connected with a stop valve, so that when the float
drops below a certain level, the valve will be turned open, and a fresh
supply of water will enter the storage tank, thereby again raising the
float and closing the valve.
[Illustration: Simple Arrangement of a Flush Tank in Connection with a
System of Pipes to Supply One or More Pans of Water for the Poultry Yard]
Each drinking pan should be about 10 in. in diameter by 4 in. deep, and is
drilled for a 7/8-in. hole to fit a 1/2-in. pipe. At the pan end, the pipe
is threaded so that a lock nut and leather washer can be attached on each
side of the pan bottom, to provide a watertight joint; at the other end,
the pipe is screwed into a tee in the 1/2-in. main line which connects
with the storage tank.
In using the system, sufficient water is run into the tank to fill the
pans about three-quarters full. The float may then be adjusted to a
shut-off position for the inlet valve. All pans are automatically kept at
one level, even though several may be used considerably more than others.
When the general water level has dropped sufficiently, the float, dropping
with it, will open the stop valve, and cause the water to enter the tank
and pans until the original level is again restored.--Contributed by D.
E. Hall, Hadlyme, Connecticut.
Changing Pip on a Card
Cut out the center pip on the five-spot of spades with a sharp knife.
Cut a slot centrally in another card, about 3/8 in. wide and 1-1/4 in.
long. Glue the surfaces of both cards together near the edges to form a
pocket for a slide, which is cut from another card and has one-half of
its surface colored black. A drop of sealing wax attached to the back of
the sliding part, so that it projects through the slot, provides a means
of moving the slide in the pocket. A lightning change can be made from a
five-spot to a four-spot while swinging the card.
[Illustration]
To Make a Special Envelope
Any size of envelope for mailing special papers or documents can be made
as follows: All envelopes are of the same shape as shown in Fig. 1; the
size for the papers to be inclosed is represented by the dotted lines in
Fig. 2. The projections A are coated with paste, and the flap B is folded
over them. The envelope is then ready for the inclosure. The flap C is
pasted and folded over as with an ordinary envelope.--Contributed by L.
E. Turner, New York City.
[Illustration: Various Stages in the Forming of an Envelope to Make Any
Size for Special Papers (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4)]
Automatically Extinguishing a Candle
Candles can be easily fitted with attachments to extinguish the light
at a set time. To determine the length of time, it is necessary to mark
a candle of the size used and time how long a certain length of it will
burn. Then it is sufficient to suspend a small metal dome, or cap, to
which a string is attached, directly over the flame, and run the opposite
end of the string over nails or through screw eyes, so that it can be
tied around the candle such a distance from the flame end, that the part
between the flame and the string will be consumed in the time desired for
the light to burn. When this point is reached, the string slips off the
candle, and the cap drops on the flame.
[Illustration]
Clothespin Newspaper Holder
A simple newspaper holder can be made by cutting away a portion of one
side of an ordinary clothespin, drilling a hole through the thick end for
a screw or nail, and fastening it in place where desired. Another way is
to split off one side of a clothespin and cut the bottom of the remaining
part tapering as shown; then drill a hole to avoid splitting the piece
and fasten in a convenient place.--Contributed by J. P. Rupp, Norwalk, O.
[Illustration: Shaping a Clothespin Head and Fastening It to a Wall
Provides a Holder for Newspapers]
Holder for a Dory Rudder
The rudder of a sailing dory or rowboat often comes off in rough water,
and in order to keep it in place and yet have it easily detachable at
will, the following method is useful: Procure a 10-in. length of soft-iron
rod and bend one end of it into a loop large enough to fit around the
rudder pin after the latter is inserted in the eyelet. Insert screws at
A, B and C, letting them project about 1/2 in. from the surface. Bend
the rod at D and A in the shape shown, and with a little adjustment it
will easily snap into position. It will prevent the rudder from riding up
out of the eyelets, but can be detached instantly. The device should be
applied to the upper pin so as to be within easy reach.--Contributed by
B. A. Thresher, Lakeville, Connecticut.
[Illustration: The Loop on the Iron Rod Holds the Pin of the Rudder in
the Eye]
Trimming Photographs
In trimming small photograph prints I experienced some difficulty in
getting them square, and I did not care to invest in a trimming board. By
following a line drawn around the print with a triangle, it was impossible
to make a perfect rectangle. In the place of a trimming board I now use a
piece of glass cut a little smaller than the desired print. The edges of
the glass are smoothed by filing or grinding them. In making a glass, be
sure to have the corners cut at perfect right angles and the edges ground
straight.
The glass is easily located over the print, and by holding the two
tightly together the edges of the print can be trimmed with a pair of
shears.--Contributed by E. Leslie McFarlane, Nashwaaksis, N. B.
A Metal Polish
A metal polish that is safe to use about the home is composed of 30
parts alcohol, 3 parts ammonia water, 45 parts water, 6-1/2 parts carbon
tetrachloride, 8 parts kieselguhr, 4 parts white bole, and 8 parts of
chalk. These substances can be purchased at a local drug store and should
be mixed in the order named. Any grease on metal will be dissolved by this
solution.--Contributed by Loren Ward, Des Moines, Iowa.
Fishing-Rod Making and Angling By Stillman Taylor