[1] If my pen were equal to the subject, what admirable things might I
relate of these celebrated men, formed to conduct a grand enterprise
with the utmost harmony? But their exploits, and the public esteem,
have long placed them above my praises.
[2] Called by the Russians Petropavlosskaia-gaven.
[3] After loading with civilities every individual engaged in the
expedition, he was farther desirous of supplying the frigates with
provisions. Notwithstanding the difficulty of procuring oxen in this
country, he furnished seven at his own expence, and could be prevailed
upon by no entreaties to accept any equivalent, but regretted that he
was not able to procure a greater number.
[4] The navigation is sufficiently safe in summer, and is the only mode
of travelling that is adopted.
[5] According to the accounts of the earliest navigators, it is the
most commodious port in this part of Asia, and ought to be the general
depôt for the commerce of the country. This would be so much the more
advantageous, as the vessels which frequent the other ports, commonly
consider themselves as fortunate if they escape shipwreck; and for this
reason the Empress has expressly prohibited all navigation after the
26th of September.
I learned a circumstance at the same time, which confirms what I have
said, and seems to have occasioned the first idea of these improvements.
An English ship, belonging to M. Lanz, a merchant of Macao, came to
anchor in the port of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, in the year 1786.
Captain Peters, who commanded the vessel, made proposals of commerce to
the Russians, of which the following are the particulars. By a treaty
which he had entered into with a Russian merchant, named Schelikhoff,
he engaged to carry on a commerce with this part of the states of the
Empress, and demanded goods to the amount of eighty thousand roubles.
These goods would probably have consisted of furs, which the English
expected to find a market for in China, from whence they would have
brought back in exchange stuffs and other articles useful to the
Russians. Schelikhoff repaired immediately to Saint Petersburg, to
solicit the consent of his sovereign, which he obtained; but while was
endeavouring to fulfil the conditions of his engagement, he learned
that the English vessel had been lost upon the coast of Copper Island
(_Ile de Cuivre_) in its return to Kamtschatka from the north-west part
of America, where it was probable it had sailed, in order to begin
its cargo, which it expected to complete at the port of Saint Peter
and Saint Paul. Two only of the crew were known to have been saved, a
Portuguese and a Bengal negro, who passed the winter at Copper Island,
from whence a Russian vessel conveyed them to Nijenei-Kamtschatka. We
joined them at Bolcheretsk, and it was M. Kasloff's intention to send
them next season to Petersburg.
[6] The word _ostrog_ properly signifies a construction surrounded
with pallisadoes. Its etymology may be derived, I imagine, from the
entrenchments hastily constructed by the Russians to protect them from
the incursions of the natives, who, doubtless, did not passively suffer
their country to be invaded. The appellation of ostrog is now given to
almost all the villages in this country.
[7] His name was Khabaroff, and he had the rank of a _préporchik_, or
ensign.
[8] At a little distance from this spot was buried, at the foot of a
tree, the body of captain Clerke. The inscription which the English
placed upon his tomb, was on wood, and liable to be effaced. Count
de la Perouse, desirous that the name of this navigator should be
immortalised, without having any thing to fear from the injuries of the
weather, substituted instead of it an inscription on copper.
It is needless to mention, that he enquired at the same time where the
famous French astronomer, from the island of Croyere, had been buried.
He entreated M. Kasloff to order a tomb to be erected, and an epitaph,
which he left engraved on copper, to be placed on it, containing an
elogy, and the circumstances of the death of our countryman. I saw his
intentions carried into execution after the departure of the French
frigates.
[9] There is a volcano about fifteen or twenty wersts from the port,
which the naturalists who accompanied count de la Perouse visited, and
which will be mentioned in his voyage. The inhabitants informed me that
smoak often issued from it, but that an eruption, which used to be
frequent, had not happened for many years.
[10] The excessive cold of which the English complain, may not be
without example; and I pretend not to contradict them. But as a
proof that the rigour of the climate is not so very piercing, the
inhabitants, whom they represent as not daring to come out of their
subterraneous dwellings, or _yourts_, during the whole winter, for
fear of being frozen, no longer construct any of these caves in
this southern part of the peninsula, as I shall have occasion to
observe elsewhere. I acknowledge, however, that the cold which I
experienced during my abode there, and which may be compared to that
of the winter of 1779, appeared to me very similar to what is felt at
Saint Petersburg. What the English must have had reason to suppose
extraordinary, are the dreadful hurricanes, which bring on such thick
and heavy storms of snow, that it is not possible either to venture
out, or to advance, if we are on a journey. I experienced this more
than once, as will be seen in the sequel.
[11] M. Schmaleff is inspector general for the Kamtschadales, or, as
it is called in Russia, _capitan-ispravnik_ for the department of
Kamtschatka; he is the same person whom the English had so much reason
to praise, and the good offices he rendered us intitle him equally to
our esteem.
[12] Secretary to the governor; he is employed in civil affairs, and
ranks as an officer.
[13] M. Ivaschkin is the unfortunate gentleman mentioned by the
English, and who merits in every respect the eulogium bestowed on
him. The mere recital of his misfortunes is sufficient to excite the
compassion of every reader; but it is necessary to have seen and
observed him, to judge of the extreme interest which his unhappy lot is
calculated to inspire.
He was not twenty years of age, when the empress Elizabeth made him
serjeant of her guard of Preobrajenskoi. He already enjoyed a certain
credit at court, and the free access to the sovereign, which his
office gave him, opened the most brilliant career to his ambition;
when all at once he saw himself not merely disgraced and deprived of
all his flattering hopes, but treated as the greatest criminal; he
was _knowted_, which is the severest and most degrading punishment
practised in Russia, had his nose slit, and was banished for life to
Kamtschatka.
The English have told us what he suffered for more than twenty years,
from the rigour with which he was treated; he was denied even the first
necessaries of life, and must infallibly have perished of hunger and
misery, or fallen a prey to despair, if the force of his mind and the
strength of his constitution had not supported him. The necessity of
providing for his own subsistence, compelled him, not without disgust,
to naturalize himself with the Kamtschadales, and to adopt entirely
their mode of living; he is clothed like them, and by means of hunting
and fishing is enabled to procure, not merely a sufficiency for his
wants, but a superfluity, from the sale of which he obtains some
little conveniencies that seem to sweeten his miserable existence. He
resides at Vercknei-Kamtschatka, or Upper Kamtschatka. The Russians
are ignorant of the cause of so severe a punishment; they are disposed
to attribute it to a misunderstanding, or some indiscreet words, for
they know not how to suppose him capable of a crime. It seems as if a
change of sentiment had taken place respecting the pretended enormity
of his offence, a proposal having been lately made of changing the
place of his banishment, and removing him to Yakoutsk, a town that
offers a variety of resources, both for profit and pleasure. But this
unfortunate being, who is from sixty to sixty-five years of age, has
refused to avail himself of this permission, not wishing, as he said,
to make a show of the hideous marks of his dishonour, and to blush a
second time at the dreadful punishment he has undergone. He preferred
the continuing to live with the Kamtschadales, having but one desire
left, that of passing the few remaining days of life with those who
know his integrity, and of carrying with him to his grave the general
friendship and esteem, to which he is so justly intitled.
The accounts given by the English, excited in count de la Perouse
a desire to see this unfortunate man, who inspired him from the
first moment with the most lively pity. He received him on board his
ship, and at his table. The count's humanity was not confined to
compassionating his miseries; he sought every means of softening them,
by leaving him whatever was calculated to remind him of our abode
there, and prove to him that the English are not the only foreigners
interested in his sorrowful lot.
[14] _Baidars_ are boats somewhat similar to European ones, except that
the sides are made of planks from four to six inches wide, and fastened
together with withies or cords, and that they are caulked with moss.
The baidars are the only vessels made use of to sail to the Kurilles
islands, they are commonly rowed, but will admit of a sail.
[15] His name is _Feodor Vereschaguin_; he succeeded his eldest brother
Romanoff Vereschaguin, who shewed so many civilities to captain Clerke,
and whom I afterwards found at Bolcheretsk.
[16] His predecessor had informed the English that this parish was to
be immediately transferred to the ostrog of St. Peter and St. Paul; but
this cannot take place till the projected improvements respecting the
port are carried into execution. We cannot help observing, that the
English have omitted to mention that there was formerly a church at St.
Peter and St. Paul's, and that its situation is known by means of a
sort of tomb which formed a part of it.
[17] This river empties itself, as I have already said, into the bay of
Avatscha. The shoals, which are commonly dry at low water, render its
entrance impracticable; it is even difficult at high water.
[18] As I stood to examine the Kamtschadale houses, I frequently
imagined to myself the disdainful surprise that our French Sybarites
would express at the sight, some of whom are so proud of their vast
hotels, and others so jealous of their little neat and decorated
apartments, where the art of arrangement scarcely falls short of the
refined luxury of superb furniture. I conceived them to exclaim--How
can human beings live in these miserable huts! A Kamtschadale however,
is by no means unhappy in these cabins, whose architecture seem to
lead us back to the first age of the world; he lives there with his
family in tranquillity; he enjoys at least the happiness of knowing few
privations, and of having therefore less wants, and has no objects of
envious comparison before his eyes.
[19] I met with some afterwards in the northern part, which I took care
to examine, and have described in their proper place.
[20] As I shall soon be obliged to adopt this mode of travelling, I
shall defer my description of the dogs till that period.
[21] They produce an effect somewhat similar to the oiled paper in the
windows of our manufactories.
[22] A werst is exactly ten hundred yards. This seems not accurately to
agree with the scale of wersts in the map. We leave it to the reader to
follow which authority he pleases. T.
[23] A Russian name which signifies, _large river_.
[24] Formerly they dared not approach these springs, or any volcano,
from the idea that they were the abode of evil spirits.
[25] M. Kasloff gave some of this gum to one of the naturalists of our
expedition, the abbé Mongés, while the frigates were at Saint Peter and
Saint Paul.
[26] M. Kasloff, who presided in this chace, had the politeness to
make me a present of this sable, called in this country _sobol_, and
promised to add it to another, that I might bring a couple with me to
France.
[27] These skins are not only a considerable branch of commerce, but
serve as a species of money with the Kamtschadales.
[28] See Cook's Voyage, vol. III. p. 208.
[29] When these galliots are obliged to winter here, they harbour in
the mouth of a narrow and deep river, which pours itself into the
Bolchaïa-reka, about fifty yards from the hamlet, higher up.
[30] This guard-house is likewise used as a prison, and even as a
school for children. The master of the school is a Japanese; he is
skilled in many languages, and is paid by government for instructing
the children of this country.
[31] Their pay is so inconsiderable, that the receipt of a whole year
would not suffice to maintain them for a single month, if they had not
the resource of a petty fraudulent commerce, of which I shall presently
give an account.
[32] This is well known to be the ruling passion of all the people
of the north; but I have had more than one occasion to observe, that
the Kamtschadales are inferior in this respect to none of them. The
following story, among others, was told me, that I might be able
to judge of the rapacity of these vagabond traders, and the stupid
prodigality of their dupes.
A Kamtschadale had given a sable for a glass of brandy. Inflamed with
a desire of drinking another, he invited the seller into his house.
The merchant thanked him, but said he was in a hurry. The Kamtschadale
renewed his solicitations, and proposed a second bargain: he
prevailed.--"Come, another glass for this sable, it is a finer one than
the first.--No; I must keep the rest of my brandy; I have promised to
sell it at such a place, and I must be gone.--Stay a moment; here are
two sables.--Tis all in vain.--Well, come, I will add another.--Agreed,
drink." Meanwhile the three sables are seized, and the hypocrite makes
a fresh pretence to come away: his host redoubles his importunities
to retain him, and demands a third glass: further refusals and
further offers: the higher the chapman raises his price, the more the
Kamtschadale is prodigal of his furs. Who would have supposed that it
would have ended in the sacrifice of seven most beautiful sables for
this last glass! they were all he had.
[33] A Russian measure containing from fifteen to twenty quarts.
[34] Eighteen pounds sterling, estimating the rouble at four shillings
and sixpence.
[35] Nine pounds nine shillings.
[36] Articles of apparel made of the skins of rein deer are procured
from the Koriacs.
[37] By the name of _lilium flore atro rubente_.
[38] The Cossacs use rye also, which makes a sort of black bread, like
that of the Russian peasants. Government allows them a certain quantity
of rye flour, but it is insufficient, and they are obliged to procure
more at their own expence. Some of them lay it up in store in order to
profit by its future sale.
[39] It is called in Kamtschatka, _tscheremscha_. Gmelin denominates
it: _allium foliis radicalibus petiolatis, floribus umbellatis_. Vol.
1. p. 49.
[40] _Spondilium foliolis pinnatifidis._ See Linn. The juice of the
rind of this plant is so acrid, that it is impossible to touch it
without blistering the hand. In gathering it they take care to wear
gloves.
[41] This brandy intoxicates much quicker than French brandy; whoever
drinks it, is sure to be extremely agitated during the night, and to
feel the next day as melancholy and restless as if he had committed
some crime.
[42] Daria is a female Russian name.
[43] The Kamtschadales are unable to shoot without this means of
resting their gun, which, from the time required to prepare it, is
evidently inconsistent with the celerity of this instrument, its chief
advantage to a sportsman.
[44] It is common enough also for it to take to flight, notwithstanding
its wound, and conceal itself in thickets or rushes, where it is traced
by means of its blood, and found either dead or expiring.
[45] I was assured that when a bear triumphs over his aggressor, he
tears the skin from the skull, draws it over his face, and then leaves
him; a mode of revenge which implies, according to the Kamtschadales,
that this animal cannot bear the human aspect; and this strange
prejudice supports them in the opinion of their superiority, and seems
to inspire them with additional courage.
[46] They hunt the bear in this manner in every season of the year,
except when the country is covered with snow; their method is then
different. It is known that in winter the bear retreats to the den
which he has fabricated during summer of the branches of trees; he
continues there while the frost lasts, either asleep, or licking his
paws. The Kamtschadales pursue him in their sledges, and attack him
with their dogs, who oblige him to defend himself: he rushes from his
lurking place to certain death; if he refuse to come out, his fate is
equally certain, and he is crushed to death under the ruins of his den.
[47] These animals are all described in Cook's voyage.
[48] The flesh of bears, argali, and rein deer, is considered by them
as very wholesome, the last particularly; I frequently feasted upon it.
[49] The Aleutienne islands, Schoumagine islands, Fox islands, &c.
[50] Their nets are made of pack thread, like ours; they purchase
it of the Russians: there is another kind however, which they
fabricate themselves from nettles, of which they take care to lay up a
considerable store. They gather them in autumn, tie them in bundles,
and place them under their balagans to dry. When their fishing and
harvests are compleated, they prepare their nettles. They slit them,
and then strip off the rind expertly with their teeth; the rest they
beat and shake till the filaments are separated, and it is fit for
spinning.
[51] They are castrated like horses, but the mode of performing
the operation is different. The Kamtschadales do not extirpate the
testicles, but bruise them, and the instrument they make use of is
their teeth. Some of them do not survive, and others are crippled and
unfit for service. In the mean time it is imagined that equal advantage
could not be derived from these animals, if they were permitted to
remain in their natural state; it would not be practicable to harness
them with females. All the males, however, are not mutilated; a
sufficient number is reserved for the preservation of the species, and
these are frequently used for hunting.
[52] The sledges for baggage are called _narta_, and are drawn by ten
dogs.
[53] Called _alaki_.
[54] This stick is called _oschtol_.
[55] The dogs feeling their burthen become lighter, advance with such
speed as frequently not to stop till they have exhausted themselves
with fatigue, or dashed the sledge to pieces against the trees.
[56] The snow began to fall 5 November, and so heavily, that the
country was covered almost immediately. But the frost being later, and
gusts of wind continuing almost without cessation, the sledges could
not conveniently be used till a considerable time after, as will be
seen in the sequel.
[57] These rackets are called _ligi_. In the northern part of the
peninsula they use another sort of racket, called _lapki_, which are
shorter, and made of leathern thorns twisted, like the firings of a
tennis racket; two small sharp pointed bones are fixed in the bottom,
which penetrate the ice, and are a preservative against sliding.
[58] A kind of close coach to sleep in, and which is fitted to the
sledge. It is like a carriage very common in Russia, called _vezok_;
mine was lined with bear's skin, and covered with the skin of the sea
wolf.
[59] In an ostrog at some distance from Bolcheretsk, I had afterwards
an opportunity of considering this subject more fully, and my
observations will be found in their proper place.
[60] The revolution which took place in Kamtschatka respecting the
chamans, is the precise history of all our mountebanks. Similar in
their impostures, their reign and their fall are similar. Various
reflections might be made on this subject. That a people equally simple
and uninformed, like the Kamtschadales, should for a time have been the
dupes of the impostures of their magicians, is not astonishing, and
will admit of an excuse: but that such extreme ignorance and credulity
should be made sensible of their error, and blush at it, is a matter of
surprise and congratulation; for even with the most enlightened nations
of Europe, do not some kinds of chamans spring up every day, equally
perfidious and destructive! They have all in the mean time their
apostles, their proselytes, and a prodigious number of martyrs.
[61] A Russian weight equal to about thirty-three pounds.
[62] These hurricanes prevail chiefly in the months of November,
December, and January.
[63] They were chiefly common sledges, such as we have already
described, page 118. Some were closed in the manner of _vezocks_ or
_kibicks_; mine was of this description, as I have mentioned, page 127.
In the thirty-five sledges do not include those of the inhabitants of
Bolcheretsk, who accompanied us as far as Apatchin.
[64] Forty-five dogs were harnessed to M. Kasloff's sledge, and
thirty-seven to mine.
[65] I had passed through this village on my road to Bolcheretsk, and
have described it, page 65.
[66] Another object of this journey was to procure us provisions. We
rejoined him afterwards, as will be seen in the sequel.
[67] The Kamtschatka, which was not yet frozen.
[68] See page 19.
[69] This object of their worship is accurately described in Steller.
[70] A sort of _tambour de vasque_ called _bouben_. It is still in use
amongst the Yakoutsk, as will be seen hereafter.
[71] A village upon the border of the river Pengina.
[72] I had the misfortune, while at Machoure, to lose the sable M.
Kasloff had given me, which died in spite of all the cares I took of
it. I preserved however the skin. It had been a considerable amusement
to me to observe its motions. Its extreme activity rendered its chain
insupportable. It frequently attempted to escape, and would infallibly
have succeeded, if I had not watched it continually; and I never caught
it again without experiencing the marks of its teeth. It fed upon
fish and meat; the latter was preferred, and is the favourite food of
these animals in their wild state. Their address in catching birds and
animals inferior to themselves, is astonishing. Mine slept almost all
day, and made a continual racket in the night by shaking its chain; but
timid to excess, it ceased to make the least noise when it saw any one
coming, and began again the moment it was alone. I used to let it out
several times a day, and as soon as it was upon the snow, it began to
burrow and conceal itself under it like a mole, appearing every now and
then, and hiding itself again immediately.
[73] I learned afterwards that the sledge of M. Kasloff, who passed at
noon day, had barely escaped from being dashed to pieces in running
against a tree, and that two of his conductors had been hurt by the
violence of the shock.
[74] The villages have almost universally the same name as the rivers
upon which they are placed, those only excepted which are upon the
Kamtschatka.
[75] I shall be censured perhaps for making my narrative abound with
dry and uniform details. I would willingly spare the reader in this
respect, if I had not promised to observe the utmost accuracy. Let him
consider the objects with which I am surrounded in the immense extent
of country that I travel, and he will perceive that they are almost
always the same. Does it then depend upon me to vary my descriptions,
and avoid tautology?
[76] There is such a continual smoke in these subterraneous
habitations, that the opening in the roof is not sufficient to let
it out, and there is therefore in an unoccupied corner of the yourt,
behind the fire-place, a kind of vent-hole in an oblique direction.
It is called _joupann_; it terminates without, at a little distance
from the square opening, and is commonly closed up with a mat or straw
covering.
[77] Some of the yourts which I saw were floored with planks; but this
is regarded as a luxury, and the generality have no other floor than
the ground.
[78] This nook is in a manner distinct from the room, and is less
filthy, because it is less frequented. It is a place of honour set
apart for strangers.
[79] They make use of the herb called _tonnchitcha_ for the same
purpose.
[80] There are some of these wandering Koriacs, I am told, in the
island of Karagui, which is twenty-six wersts from the village of that
name. I had before imagined that I could perceive this island at a
distance.
[81] These knives are about two feet long; they are worn in their
girdle, and hang upon the thigh.
[82] To guard ourselves against these famished dogs we never dared to
go out without our sticks, or some kind of arms to drive them off.
[83] It is called by the people of this country _Poustaïareka_, or
desert river. This gulf was entirely frozen over.
[84] The tubes of these pipes are made of wood, with a slit from one
end to the other. Thus they open in the middle, and the smoakers, from
oeconomy, scrape the inside after using, and make a second regale of
the filings.
[85] In describing the dress of the Kamtschadales, we observed that
they wore under their parque a small chemise made of nankin, or cotton
stuff.
[86] The reader will recollect that upon leaving Bolcheretsk, we had a
troop consisting nearly of three hundred.
[87] It was really a labour, and a most fatiguing one, if we consider
that in these yourts it was not possible to write, without lying upon
the ground; we were also suffocated with smoke, and the ink froze by
our side.