Page
I quit the French frigates, and receive my dispatches 3
Departure of the frigates 6
Impossibility of going to Okotsk before sledges can
be used 7
Details respecting the port of St. Peter and St. Paul 9
Nature of the soil 15
Climate 16
Rivers that have their mouth in the bay of Avatscha 18
Departure from St. Peter and St. Paul's with M.
Kasloff and M. Schmaleff 19
Arrival at Paratounka 22
Description of this ostrog 23
Kamtschadale habitations 24
Balagans 25
Isbas 28
Chief or judge of an ostrog 31
Arrival at Koriaki 37
Arrival at the baths of Natchikin 38
Description of the baths 41
Mode of analizing the hot waters 46
Result of our experiments 50
Mode of hunting a sable 55
Departure from Natchikin, and details of our journey 59
Arrival at Apatchin 65
At Bolcheretsk, &c. 66
Shipwreck of an Okotsk galiot 68
Hamlet of Tchekafki 70
Mouth of the Bolchaïa-reka 71
Terrible hurricane 74
Description of Bolcheretsk, where I stayed till 27
January 1788 76
Population 80
Fraudulent commerce of the Cossacs and others 81
Commerce in general 84
Mode of living of the inhabitants and the Kamtschades
in general 87
Dress _ib._
Food 88
Drink 93
Indigenes 94
Reflections on the manners of the inhabitants 97
Balls 101
Kamtschadale feasts and dances 103
Bear hunting 106
Hunting 110
Fishing 114
Scarcity of horses 115
Dogs _ib._
Sledges 118
Diseases 127
Medical sorcerers 130
Strong constitution of the women 133
Remedy learned from the bear 134
Religion 135
Churches 137
Tributes 138
Coins 139
Pay of the soldiers 140
Government _ib._
Tribunals 143
Successions 144
Divorces _ib._
Punishments 145
Idiom 146
Climate 147
My long stay at Bolcheretsk accounted for 150
Departure from Bolcheretsk 152
Arrival at Apatchin 155
Origin of the ill opinion the inhabitants of Kamtschatka
have of the French 156
Beniouski 157
M. Schmaleff quits us 158
Arrival at Malkin 159
At Ganal 162
At Pouschiné 164
Isbas without chimneys _ib._
Kamtschadale lamp 165
Filthiness of the inhabitants 166
The roads obstructed with snow 167
Ostrog of Charom 168
Arrival at Vereknei Kamtschatka _ib._
Ivaschin, an unfortunate exile 170
Colony of peasants 172
Ostrog of Kirgann 175
Description of my dress 177
Visit the baron Stenheil at Machoure 180
New details respecting the chamans or sorcerers 181
Alarmed at a report of the Koriacs having revolted 188
Nikoulka rivers 191
Volcanos of Tolbatchina 192
Early marriages 194
I quit M. Kasloff to go to Nijenei Kamtschatka 195
Ostrog of Ouchkoff 196
Of Krestoff 197
Volcano of Klutchefskaïa 198
Klutchefskaïa inhabited by Siberian peasants _ib._
Ostrog of Kamini 201
Arrival at Nijenei _ib._
Entertainment given by the governor 204
Tribunals of Nijenei 207
Account of nine Japanese whom I found there 208
Departure from Nijenei Kamtschatka 217
I rejoin M. Kasloff 219
Overtaken by a tempest, which obliges us to halt _ib._
Manner in which the Kamtschades made their bed on
the snow 221
Ostrog of Ozernoi 223
Of Onké _ib._
Of Khalali 225
Of Ivaschin 227
Of Drannki 228
Of Karagui 229
Yourts described 230
Singular dress of the children of Karagui 234
Koriacs supply us with rein deer 236
Account of the two sorts of Koriacs 237
A celebrated female dancer 240
Fondness of the Kamtschadales for tobacco 243
Departure from Karagui 246
Manner of our halting in the open country 247
Our dogs begin to suffer from famine 248
Soldier sent to Kaminoi for succour 249
Arrival at Gavenki 250
Dispute between a sergeant of our company and two
peasants of the village 251
The inhabitants refuse us fish 254
Departure from Gavenki 256
Misled by our guide 257
Our dogs die of hunger and fatigue 258
We are apprehhensive of being starved to death in a
desert _ib._
Obliged to leave our equipage 259
New distresses _ib._
Arrival at Poustaretsk 262
Fruitless attempts to find provisions 263
Melancholy spectacle exhibited by our dogs _ib._
Soldier sent to Kaminoi, stopt in his way by tempests 265
Sergeant Kabechoff sets out for Kaminoi 266
Description of Poustaretsk and its environs 267
Food upon which the inhabitants lived during our stay 268
Their mode of catching rein deer 269
Occupations of the women 270
Method of smoking 271
Dress 272
M. Schmaleff joins us 273
Distressing answer from sergeant Kabechoff 274
M. Kasloff receives news of his promotion 275
I resolve to leave him 276
Calm established among the Koriacs 278
M. Kasloff gives me his dispatches, and the passports
necessary for my safety 280
My regret at leaving him 281
TRAVELS
IN
KAMTSCHATKA, &c.
I have scarcely completed my twenty-fifth year, and am arrived at the
most memorable æra of my life. However long, or however happy may be my
future career, I doubt whether it will ever be my fate to be employed
in so glorious an expedition as that in which two French frigates, the
Boussole, and the Astrolabe, are at this moment engaged; the first
commanded by count de la Perouse, chief of the expedition, and the
second by viscount de Langle[1].
The report of this voyage round the world, created too general and
lively an interest, for direct news of these illustrious navigators,
reclaimed by their country and by all Europe from the seas they
traverse, not to be expected with as much impatience as curiosity.
How flattering is it to my heart, after having obtained from count
de la Perouse the advantage of accompanying him for more than two
years, to be farther indebted to him for the honour of conveying
his dispatches over land into France! The more I reflect upon this
additional proof of his confidence, the more I feel what such an
embassy requires, and how far I am deficient; and I can only attribute
his preference, to the necessity of choosing for this journey, a person
who had resided in Russia, and could speak its language.
On the 6 September 1787, the king's frigates entered the port of
Avatscha, or Saint Peter and Saint Paul[2], at the southern extremity
of the peninsula of Kamtschatka. The 29, I was ordered to quit the
Astrolabe; and the same day count de la Perouse gave me his dispatches
and instructions. His regard for me would not permit him to confine
his cares to the most satisfactory arrangements for the safety
and convenience of my journey; he went farther, and gave me the
affectionate counsels of a father, which will never be obliterated from
my heart. Viscount de Langle had the goodness to join his also, which
proved equally beneficial to me.
Let me be permitted in this place to pay my just tribute of gratitude
to the faithful companion of the dangers and the glory of count de la
Perouse, and his rival in every other court, as well as that of France,
for having acted towards me, upon all occasions, as a counsellor, a
friend, and a father.
In the evening I was to take my leave of the commander and his worthy
colleague. Judge what I suffered, when I conducted them back to the
boats that waited for them. I was incapable of speaking, or of quitting
them; they embraced me in turns, and my tears too plainly told them the
situation of my mind. The officers who were on shore, received also my
adieux: they were affected, offered prayers to heaven for my safety,
and gave me every consolation and succour that their friendship could
dictate. My regret at leaving them cannot be described; I was torn from
their arms, and found myself in those of colonel Kasloff-Ougrenin,
governor general of Okotsk and Kamtschatka, to whom count de la Perouse
had recommended me, more as his son, than an officer charged with his
dispatches.
At this moment commenced my obligations to the Russian governor. I
knew not then all the sweetness of his character, incessantly disposed
to acts of kindness, and which I have since had so many reasons to
admire[3]. He treated my feelings with the utmost address. I saw the
tear of sympathy in his eye upon the departure of the boats, which we
followed as far as our sight would permit; and in conducting me to his
house, he spared no pains to divert me from my melancholy reflections.
To conceive the frightful void which my mind experienced at this
moment, it is necessary to be in my situation, and left alone in these
scarcely discovered regions, four thousand leagues from my native
land: without calculating this enormous distance, the dreary aspect of
the country sufficiently prognosticated what I should have to suffer
during my long and perilous route; but the reception which I met with
from the inhabitants, and the civilities of M. Kasloff and the other
Russian officers, made me by degrees less sensible to the departure of
my countrymen.
It took place on the morning of 30 September. They set sail with a wind
that carried them out of sight in a few hours, and continued favourable
for several days. It will readily be believed, that I did not see them
depart without offering the most sincere wishes for all my friends on
board; the last sad homage of my gratitude and attachment.
Count de la Perouse had recommended diligence to me, but enjoined me,
at the same time, upon no pretext to quit M. Kasloff; an injunction
that was perfectly agreeable to my inclinations. The governor had
promised to conduct me as far as Okotsk, which was the place of
his residence, and to which it was necessary that he should repair
immediately. I had already felt the happiness of being placed in such
good hands, and I made no scruple of surrendering myself implicitly to
his direction.
His intention was to go as far as Bolcheretsk, and there wait till we
could avail ourselves of sledges, which would greatly facilitate our
journey to Okotsk. The season was too far advanced for us to risk an
attempt by land, and the passage by sea was not less dangerous; besides
there was no vessel either in the port of Saint Peter and Saint Paul,
or of Bolcheretsk[4].
M. Kasloff had his affairs to settle, which, with the preparations for
our departure, detained us six days longer, and afforded me time to
satisfy myself that the frigates were not likely to return. I embraced
this opportunity of commencing my observations, and making minutes of
every thing about me. I attended particularly to the bay of Avatcha,
and the port of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, in order to give a just
idea of them.
This bay has been minutely described by captain Cook, and we found his
account to be accurate. It has since undergone some alterations; which,
it is said, are to be followed by many others; particularly as to the
port of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. It is possible indeed, that the
very next ship which shall arrive, expecting to find only five or six
houses, may be surprised with the sight of an entire town, built of
wood, but tolerably fortified.
Such at least is the projected plan, which, as I learned indirectly,
is to be ascribed to M. Kasloff, whose views are equally great, and
conducive to the service of his mistress. The execution of this plan
will contribute not a little to increase the celebrity of the port,
already made famous by the foreign vessels which have touched there, as
well as by its favourable situation for commerce[5].
To understand the nature, and estimate the utility of this project,
nothing more is necessary than to have an idea of the extent and form
of the bay of Avatscha, and the port in question. We have already many
accurate descriptions, which are in the hands of every one. I shall
therefore confine myself to what may tend to illustrate the views of M.
Kasloff.
The port of St. Peter and St. Paul, is known to be situated at the
north of the entrance of the bay, and closed in at the south by a
very narrow neck of land, upon which the ostrog[6], or village of
Kamtschatka is built. Upon an eminence to the east, at the most
interior point of the bay, is the house of the governor[7], with
whom M. Kasloff resided during his stay. Near this house, almost in
the same line, is that of a corporal of the garrison, and a little
higher inclining to the north, that of the serjeant, who, next to the
governor, are the only persons at all distinguished in this settlement,
if indeed it deserves the name of settlement. Opposite to the entrance
of the port, on the declivity of the eminence, from which a lake of
considerable extent is seen, are the ruins of the hospital mentioned
in captain Cooke's voyage[8]. Below these, and nearer the shore, is
a building which serves as a magazine to the garrison, and which is
constantly guarded by a centinel. Such was the state in which we found
the port of St. Peter and St. Paul.
By the proposed augmentation, it will evidently become an interesting
place. The entrance was to be closed, or at least flanked by
fortifications, which were to serve at the same time as a defence, on
this side, to the projected town, which was chiefly to be built upon
the site of the old hospital; that is, between the port and the lake.
A battery also was to be erected upon the neck of land which separates
the bay from the lake, in order to protect the other part of the town.
In short, by this plan, the entrance of the bay would be defended by
a sufficiently strong battery upon the least elevated point of the
left coast; and vessels entering the bay could not escape the cannon,
because of the breakers on the right. There is at present upon the
point of a rock, a battery of six or eight cannon, lately erected to
salute our frigates.
I need not add, that the augmentation of the garrison forms a part of
the plan, which consists only at present of forty soldiers, or Cossacs.
Their mode of living and their dress are similar to the Kamtschadales,
except that in time of service they have a sabre, firelock, and
cartouch box; in other respects they are not distinguishable from the
indigenes, but by their features and idiom.
With respect to the Kamtschadale village, which forms a considerable
part of the place, and is situated, as I have already said, upon the
narrow projection of land which closes in the entrance of the port, it
is at present composed of from thirty to forty habitations, including
winter and summer ones, called _isbas_ and _balagans_; and the number
of inhabitants, taking in the garrison, does not exceed a hundred, men,
women and children. The intention is to increase them to upwards of
four hundred.
To these details respecting the port of St. Peter and St. Paul, and its
destined improvements, I shall add a few remarks upon the nature of the
soil, the climate, and the rivers. The banks of the bay of Avatscha
are rendered difficult of access by high mountains, of which some are
covered with wood, and others have volcanos[9]. The valleys present a
vegetation that astonished me. The grass was nearly of the height of a
man; and the rural flowers, such as the wild roses and others that are
interspersed with them, diffuse far and wide a most grateful smell.
The rains are in general heavy during spring and autumn, and blasts of
wind are frequent in autumn and winter. The latter is sometimes rainy;
but notwithstanding its length, they assured me that its severity is
not very extreme, at least in this southern part of Kamtschatka[10].
The snow begins to appear on the ground in October, and the thaw does
not take place till April or May; but even in July it is seen to fall
upon the summit of high mountains, and particularly volcanos. The
summer is tolerably fine; the strongest heats scarcely last beyond the
solstice. Thunder is seldom heard, and is never productive of injury.
Such is the temperature of almost all this part of the peninsula.
Two rivers pour their waters into the bay of Avatscha; that from which
the bay is named, and the Paratounka. They both abound with fish, and
every species of water fowl, but these are so wild, that it is not
possible to approach within fifty yards of them. The navigation of
these rivers is impracticable after the 26 November, because they are
always frozen at this time; and in the depth of winter the bay itself
is covered with sheets of ice, which are kept there by the wind blowing
from the sea; but they are completely dispelled as soon as it blows
from the land. The port of St. Peter and St. Paul is commonly shut up
by the ice in the month of January.
I should doubtless say something in this place of the manners and
customs of the Kamtschadales, of their houses, or rather huts, which
they call _isbas_ or _balagans_; but I must defer this till my arrival
at Bolcheretsk, where I expect to have more leisure, and a better
opportunity of describing them minutely.
We departed from the port of Saint Peter and Saint Paul the 7 October.
Our company consisted of Messrs. Kasloff, Schmaleff[11], Vorokhoff[12],
Ivaschkin[13], myself, and the suite of the governor, amounting to four
serjeants, and an equal number of soldiers.
The commanding officer of the port, probably out of respect to M.
Kasloff, his superior, joined our little troop, and we embarked upon
_baidars_[14] in order to cross the bay and reach Paratounka, where we
were to be supplied with horses to proceed on our route.
In five or six hours we arrived at this ostrog, where the priest[15],
or rector of the district resides, and whose church also is in this
place[16]. His house served us for a lodging, and we were treated with
the utmost hospitality; but we had scarcely entered when the rain fell
in such abundance, that we were obliged to stay longer than we wished.
I eagerly embraced this short interval to describe some of the objects
which I had deferred till my arrival at Bolcheretsk, where, perhaps, I
may find others that will not be less interesting.
The ostrog of Paratounka is situated by the side of a river of that
name, about two leagues from its mouth[17]. This village is scarcely
more populous than that of St. Peter and St. Paul. The small pox
has, in this place particularly, made dreadful ravages. The number
of balagans and isbas seemed to be very nearly the same as at
Petropavlofska[18].
The Kamtschadales lodge in the first during summer, and retreat to the
last in winter. As it is thought desirable that they should be brought
gradually to resemble the Russian peasants, they are prohibited, in
this southern part of Kamtschatka, from constructing any more _yourts_,
or subterraneous habitations; these are all destroyed at present[19],
a few vestiges only remain of them, filled up within, and appearing
externally like the roofs of our ice-houses.
The balagans are elevated above the ground upon a number of posts,
placed at equal distances, and about twelve or thirteen feet high. This
rough sort of colonnade supports in the air a platform made of rafters,
joined to one another, and overspread with clay: this platform serves
as a floor to the whole building, which consists of a roof in the shape
of a cone, covered with a kind of thatch, or dried grass, placed upon
long poles fastened together at the top, and bearing upon the rafters.
This is at once the first and last story; it forms the whole apartment,
or rather chamber: an opening in the roof serves instead of a chimney
to let out the smoke, when a fire is lighted to dress their victuals;
this cookery is performed in the middle of the room, where they eat
and sleep pell-mell together without the least disgust or scruple. In
these apartments, windows are out of the question; there is merely a
door, so low and narrow, that it will scarcely suffice to admit the
light. The staircase is worthy of the rest of the building; it consists
of a beam, or rather a tree jagged in a slovenly manner, one end of
which rests on the ground, and the other is raised to the height of
the floor. It is placed at the angle of the door, upon a level, with
a kind of open gallery that is erected before it. This tree retains
its roundness, and presents on one side something like steps, but they
are so incommodious that I was more than once in danger of breaking my
neck. In reality, whenever this vile ladder turns under the feet of
those who are not accustomed to it, it is impossible to preserve an
equilibrium; a fall must be the consequence, more or less dangerous, in
proportion to the height. When they wish persons to be informed that
there is nobody at home, they merely turn the staircase, with the steps
inward.
Motives of convenience may have suggested to these people the idea of
building such strange dwellings, which their mode of living renders
necessary and commodious. Their principal food being dried fish, which
is also the nourishment of their dogs, it is necessary, in order to
dry their fish, and other provisions, that they should have a place
sheltered from the heat of the sun, and at the same time perfectly
exposed to the air. Under the collonnades or rustic porticos, which
form the lower part of their balagans, they find this convenience; and
there they hang their fish, either to the ceiling or to the sides, that
it may be out of the reach of the voraciousness of their dogs. The
Kamtschadales make use of dogs[20] to draw their sledges; the best,
that is the most vicious, have no other kennel than what the portico of
the balagans affords them, to the posts of which they are tied. Such
are the advantages resulting from the singular mode of constructing the
balagans, or summer habitations of the Kamtschadales.
Those of winter are less singular; and if equally large, would exactly
resemble the habitations of the Russian peasants. These have been so
often described, that it is universally known how they are constructed
and arranged. The isbas are built of wood; that is to say, the walls
are formed by placing long trees horizontally upon one another, and
filling up the interstices with clay. The roof slants like our thatched
houses, and is covered with coarse grass, or rushes, and frequently
with planks. The interior part is divided into two rooms, with a stove
placed so as to warm them both, and which serves at the same time as a
fire-place for their cookery. On two sides of the largest room, wide
benches are fixed, and sometimes a sorry couch made of planks, and
covered with bears skin. This is the bed of the chief of the family:
and the women, who in this country are the slaves of their husbands,
and perform all the most laborious offices, think themselves happy to
be allowed to sleep in it.
Besides these benches and the bed, there is also a table, and a great
number of images of different saints, with which the Kamtschadales
are as emulous of furnishing their chambers, as the majority of our
celebrated connoisseurs are of displaying their magnificent paintings.
The windows, as may be supposed, are neither large or high. The panes
are made of the skins of salmon, or the bladders of various animals, or
the gullets of sea wolves prepared, and sometimes of leaves of talc;
but this is rare, and implies a sort of opulence. The fish skins are so
scraped and dressed that they become transparent, and admit a feeble
light to the room[21]; but objects cannot be seen through them. The
leaves of talc are more clear, and approach nearer to glass; in the
mean time they are not sufficiently transparent for persons without to
see what is going on within: this is manifestly no inconvenience to
such low houses.
Every ostrog is presided by a chief, called _toyon_. This kind of
magistrate is chosen from among the natives of the country, by
a plurality of voices. The Russians have preserved to them this
privilege, but the election must be approved by the jurisdiction of the
province. This toyon is merely a peasant, like those whom he judges and
governs; he has no mark of distinction, and performs the same labours
as his subordinates. His office is chiefly to watch over the police,
and inspect the execution of the orders of government. Under him is
another Kamtschadale, chosen by the toyon himself, to assist him in
the exercise of his functions, or supply his place. This vice-toyon is
called _yesaoul_, a Cossac title adopted by the Kamtschadales since
the arrival of the Cossacs in their peninsula, and which signifies
second chief of their band or clan. It is necessary to add, that when
the conduct of these chiefs is considered as corrupt, or excites the
complaints of their inferiors, the Russian officers presiding over
them, or the other tribunals established by government, dismiss them
immediately from their functions, and nominate others more agreeable to
the Kamtschadales, with whom the right of election still remains.
The rain continuing, we were unable to proceed on our journey; but my
curiosity led me to embrace a short interval that offered in the course
of the day, to walk out into the ostrog, and visit its environs.
I went first to the church, which I found to be built of wood, and
ornamented in the taste of those of the Russian villages. I observed
the arms of captain Clerke, painted by Mr. Webber, and the English
inscription upon the death of this worthy successor of captain Cook; it
pointed out the place of his burial at Saint Peter and Saint Paul's.
During the stay of the French frigates in this port, I had been at
Paratounka, in a hunting excursion, with viscount de Langle. As we
returned, he spoke of many interesting objects he had observed in the
church, and which had entirely escaped my attention. They were, as far
as I can remember, various offerings deposited there, he said, by some
ancient navigators, who had been shipwrecked. It was my full intention
to examine them upon my second visit to this ostrog; but whether it
escaped my recollection, or that my research was too precipitate, from
the short time that I had to make it, certain it is that I did not
discover them.
The village is surrounded with a wood; I traversed it by proceeding
along the river, and perceived at length a vast plain which extends
to the north and the east as far as the mountains of Petropavlofska.
This chain is terminated at the south and west by another, of which the
mountain of Paratounka forms a part, and which is about five or six
wersts[22] from the ostrog of that name. Upon the banks of the rivers
that wind in this plain, there are frequent traces of bears, who are
attracted by the fish with which these rivers abound. The inhabitants
assured me, that fifteen or eighteen were frequently seen together upon
these banks, and that whenever they hunted them, they were sure to
bring back one or two, at least, in the space of twenty-four hours. I
shall soon have occasion to speak of their chace, and their weapons.
We quitted Paratounka and resumed our journey; twenty horses sufficed
for ourselves and our baggage, which was not considerable, M. Kasloff
having taken the precaution of sending a great part of it by water, as
far as the ostrog of Koriaki. The river Avatscha has no tide, and is
not navigable farther than this ostrog; and not at all indeed, except
by small boats, called _batts_. The baidirs only serve to cross the
bay of Avatscha, and can proceed no farther than the mouth of the
river, where their lading is put into these batts, which, from the
shallowness and rapidity of the water, are pushed forward with poles.
It was in this manner our effects arrived at Koriaki.
As to ourselves, having crossed the river Paratounka at a shallow, and
winded along several of its branches, we left it for a way that was
woody and less level, but which afforded us better travelling; it was
almost entirely in valleys, and we had only two mountains to climb.
Our horses, notwithstanding their burthens, advanced very briskly.
We had no reason to complain of the weather for a single moment; it
was so fair, that I began to think the rigour of the climate had been
exaggerated; but shortly after, experience too well convinced me of its
truth, and in the sequel of my journey, I had every reason to accustom
myself to the most piercing frosts, too happy when in the midst of ice
and snow, that I had not to contend with the violence of whirlwinds and
tempests.
We were about six or seven hours in going from Paratounka to Koriaki,
which, as far as I could judge, is from thirty-eight to forty wersts.
Scarcely arrived, we were obliged to take refuge in the house of the
_toyon_, to shelter ourselves from the rain; he ceded his isba to M.
Kasloff, and we spent the night there.
The ostrog of Koriaki is situated in the midst of a coppice wood, and
upon the border of the river Avatscha, which becomes very narrow in
this part. Five or six isbas, and twice, or at most three times the
number of balagans, make up this village, which is similar to that
of Paratounka, except that it is less, and has no parish church. I
observed in general that ostrogs of so little consideration were not
provided with a church.
The next day we mounted our horses and took the way to Natchikin,
another ostrog in the Bolcheretsk route. We were to stop a few days
in the neighbourhood for the sake of the baths, which M. Kasloff had
constructed at his own expence, for the benefit and pleasure of the
inhabitants, upon the hots springs that are found there, and which
I shall presently describe. The way from Koriaki to Natchikin is
tolerably commodious, and we crossed without difficulty all the little
streams that fall from the mountains, at the foot of which we passed.
About three-fourths of the way we met the Bolchaïa-reka[23]; from
the site of its greatest breadth, which in this place is about ten
or twelve yards, it appears to wind to a considerable extent to the
north east; we journeyed on its bank for some time, till we came to a
little mountain, which we were obliged to pass over in order to reach
the village. A heavy rain which came on as we left Koriaki, ceased a
few minutes after; but the wind having changed to the north-west, the
heavens became obscured, and we had abundance of snow; we were about
two-thirds of our way, and it continued till our arrival. I remarked
that the snow already covered the mountains, even such as were lowest,
upon which it described an equal line at a certain elevation, but
that below them no traces of it were yet perceptible. We forded the
Bolchaïa-reka, and found on the other side the ostrog of Natchikin,
where I counted six or seven isbas and twenty balagans, similar to what
I had seen before. We made no stay there, M. Kasloff thinking it proper
to hasten immediately to the baths, to which I was inclined as much
from curiosity as from necessity.
The snow had penetrated through my clothes, and in crossing the river,
which was deep, I had made my legs and feet wet. I longed therefore to
be able to change my dress, but when we came to the baths our baggage
was not arrived. We proposed drying ourselves by walking about the
environs, and observing the interesting objects which I expected to
find there. I was charmed with every thing I saw, but the dampness of
the place, added to that of our clothes, gave us such a chilliness that
we quickly put an end to our walk. Upon our return we had a new source
of regret and impatience. Unable either to dry ourselves or change our
dress, our equipage not being arrived, to complete our misfortune, the
place to which we had retired was the dampest we could have chosen,
and though it seemed sufficiently sheltered, the wind penetrated on
every side. M. Kasloff had recourse to the bath, which quickly restored
him; but not daring to follow his example, I was obliged to wait the
arrival of our baggage. The damp had penetrated to such a degree that I
shivered during the whole night.
The next day I made a trial of these baths, and can say that none ever
afforded me so much pleasure or so much benefit. But before I proceed,
I must describe the source of these hot waters, and the building
constructed for bathing.
They are two wersts to the north of the ostrog, and about a hundred
yards from the bank of the Bolchaïa-reka, which it is necessary to
cross a second time in order to arrive at the baths, on account of
the elbow which the river describes below the village. A thick and
continual vapour ascends from these waters, which fall in a rapid
cascade from a rather steep declivity, three hundred yards from
the place where the baths are erected. In their fall, which is in
a direction east and west, they form a small stream of a foot and
half deep, and six or seven feet wide. At a little distance from the
Bolchaïa-reka, this stream is met by another, with which it pours
itself into this river. At their conflux, which is about eight or nine
hundred yards from the source, the water is so hot that it is not
possible to keep the hand in it for half a minute.
M. Kasloff has been careful to erect his building on the most
convenient spot, and where the temperature of the water is most
moderate. It is constructed of wood, in the middle of a stream, and is
in the proportion of sixteen feet long by eight wide. It is divided
into two apartments, each of six or seven feet square, and as many
high: the one which is nearest to the side of the spring, and under
which the water is consequently warmer, is appropriated for bathing;
the other serves for a dressing-room; and for this purpose there are
wide benches above the level of the water; in the middle also a certain
space is left to wash if we be disposed. There is one circumstance
that renders these baths very agreeable, the warmth of the water
communicates itself sufficiently to the dressing-room to prevent us
from catching cold; and it penetrates the body to such a degree, as to
be felt even for the space of an hour or two after we have left the
bath.
We lodged near these baths in a kind of barns, covered with thatch, and
whose timber work consisted of the trunks and branches of trees. We
occupied two, which had been built on purpose for us, and in so short
a time, that I knew not how to credit the report; but I had soon the
conviction of my own eyes. That which was to the south of the stream,
having been found too small and too damp, M. Kasloff ordered another of
six or eight yards extent, to be built on the opposite side, where the
soil was less swampy. It was the business of a day; in the evening it
was finished, though an additional staircase had been cut out to form a
communication between the barn and the bathing house, whose door was to
the north.
Our habitations being insupportable during the night, on account of the
cold, M. Kasloff resolved to quit them, four days after our arrival. We
returned to the village to shelter ourselves with the toyon; but the
attraction of the baths led us back every day, oftener twice than once,
and we scarcely ever came away without bathing.
The various constructions which M. Kasloff ordered for the greater
convenience of his establishment, detained us two days longer. Animated
by a love of virtue and humanity, he enjoyed the pleasure of having
procured these salutary and pleasant baths for his poor Kamtschadales.
The uninformed state of their minds, or perhaps their indolence,
would, without his succour, have deprived them of this benefit,
notwithstanding their extreme confidence in these hot springs for
the cure of a variety of diseases[24]. This made M. Kasloff desirous
of ascertaining the properties of these waters; we agreed to analyse
them, by means of a process which had been given him for this purpose.
But before I speak of the result of our experiments, it is necessary
to transcribe the process, in order the better to trace the mode we
adopted.
"Water in general may contain,
"1. Fixed air; in that case it has a sharp and sourish taste, like
lemonade, without sugar.
"2. Iron or copper; and then it has an astringent and disagreeable
taste, like ink.
"3. Sulphur, or sulphurous vapours; and then it has a very nauseous
taste, like a stale and rotten egg.
"4. Vitriolic, or marine, or alkaline salt.
"5. Earth,"
_Fixed Air._
"To ascertain the fixed air, the taste is partly sufficient; but pour
into the water some tincture of turnsol, and the water will become
more or less red, in proportion to the quantity of fixed air it
contains."
_Iron._
"The iron may be known by means of the galnut and phlogisticated
alkali; the galnut put into feruginous water, will change its colour to
purple, or violet, or black; and the phlogisticated alkali will produce
immediately Prussian blue."
_Copper._
"Copper may be ascertained by means of the phlogisticated alkali or
volatile alkali; the first turns the water to a brown red, and the
second to a blue. The last mode is the surest, because the volatile
alkali precipitates copper only, and not iron."
_Sulphur._
"Sulphur and sulphurous vapours may be known by pouring, 1. nitrous
acid into the water; if a yellowish or whitish sediment be formed by
it, there is sulphur, and at the same time a sulphurous odour will
be exhaled and evaporate. 2. By pouring some drops of a solution
of corrosive sublimate; if it occasion a white sediment, the water
contains only vapours of liver of sulphur; and if the sediment be
black, the water contains sulphur only."
_Vitriolic Salt._
"Water may contain vitriolic salts; that is salts resulting from the
combination of the vitriolic acid with calcareous earth, iron, copper,
or with an alkali. The vitriolic acid may be ascertained by pouring
some drops of a solution of heavy earth; for then a sandy sediment will
be formed, which will settle slowly at the bottom of the vessel."
_Marine Salt._
"Water may contain marine salt, which may be ascertained by pouring
into it some drops of a solution of silver; a white sediment will
immediately be formed of the consistency of curdled milk, which will at
last turn to a dark violet colour."
_Fixed Alkali._
"Water may contain fixed alkali, which may be ascertained by pouring
into it some drops of a solution of corrosive sublimate; when a reddish
sediment will be formed."
_Calcareous Earth._
"Water may contain calcareous earth and magnesia. Some drops of acid
of sugar poured into the water, will precipitate the calcareous earth
in whitish clouds, which will at length subside and afford a white
sediment. A few drops of a solution of corrosive sublimate, will
produce a reddish sediment, but very gradually, if the water contain
magnesia.
"Note. To make these experiments with readiness and certainty, the
water to be analysed should be reduced one half by boiling it, except
in the case of the fixed air, which would evaporate in the boiling."
Having thoroughly studied the process, we began our experiments. The
three first producing no effect, we concluded that the water contained
neither fixed air, iron, nor copper; but upon the mixture of the
nitrous acid, mentioned for the fourth experiment, we perceived a light
substance settle upon the surface, of a whitish colour, and extending
but a little way, which led us to believe that the quantity of sulphur,
or of sulphurous vapours, must be infinitely small.
The fifth experiment proved that the water contained vitriolic salts,
or at least vitriolic acid mixed with calcareous earth. We ascertained
the existence of this acid, by pouring some drops of a solution of
heavy earth into the water, which became white and nebulous, and the
sediment that slowly settled at the bottom of the vessel appeared
whitish and in very fine grains.
We had no solution of silver for the sixth experiment, in order to
ascertain whether the water contained marine salt.
The seventh proved that it had no fixed alkali.
By the eighth experiment, we found that the water contained a great
quantity of calcareous earth, but no magnesia. Having poured some
drops of acid of sugar, we observed the calcareous earth precipitate to
the bottom of the vessel in clouds and a powder of a whitish colour;
we mixed afterwards some solution of corrosive sublimate to find the
magnesia; but the sediment, instead of becoming red, preserved the same
colour as before; a proof that the water contained no magnesia.
We made use of this water for tea and for our common drink. It was not
till after three or four days that we found it contained some saline
particles.
M. Kasloff boiled also some of the water taken at the spring, till it
became totally evaporated; the whitish and very salt earth or powder
which remained at the bottom of the vessel, as well as the effect it
produced on us, proved that this water contained nitrous salts.
We remarked also that the stones taken out of this stream were covered
with a calcareous substance tolerably thick, and of an undulated
appearance, which, when mixed with the vitriolic and nitrous acid,
produced symptoms of effervescence. We examined others taken from what
appeared to be the fountain head of the waters, and where they have
the greater degree of heat; we found them covered with a stratum of
a kind of metal, if I may so call a hard and compact envelopement of
the colour of refined copper, but the quality of which we could not
ascertain; we found also some of this metal, which appeared like the
heads of pins; but no acid could dissolve it. Upon breaking these
stones, we discovered the inside to be very soft and mixed with
gravel, with which I had observed these streams to abound.
I ought to add here, that we discovered upon the border of the stream,
and in a little moving swamp that was near it, a gum, or singular
_fucus_[25], that was glutinous, but did not adhere to the ground.
Such are the observations which I made upon these hot waters, by
assisting M. Kasloff in his experiments and enquiries. I dare not
flatter myself with having given the result of our operations in a
satisfactory manner; forgetfulness, or want of information upon the
subject, may have led me into errors; I can only say that I have
exerted all my attention and care to be accurate; but acknowledge at
the same time, that, if there be defects, they are ascribable to me.
During our stay at these baths and at the ostrog of Natchikin, our
horses had brought, at different times, the effects which we had left
at Koriaki, and we began to make preparations for our departure. In
this interval I had an opportunity of seeing a sable taken alive; the
method was very singular, and may give some idea of the manner of
hunting these animals.
At some distance from the baths, M. Kasloff remarked a numerous flight
of ravens, who all hovered over the same spot, skimming continually
along the ground. The regular direction of their flight led us to
suspect that some prey attracted them. These birds were in reality
pursuing a sable. We perceived it upon a birch-tree, surrounded by
another flight of ravens, and we had immediately a similar desire of
taking it. The quickest and surest way would doubtless have been to
have shot it; but our guns were at the village, and it was impossible
to borrow one of the persons who accompanied us, or indeed in the whole
neighbourhood. A Kamtschadale happily drew us from our embarassment,
by undertaking to catch the sable. He adopted the following method. He
asked us for a cord; we had none to give him but that which fastened
our horses. While he was making a running knot, some dogs, trained
to this chace, had surrounded the tree: the animal, intent upon
watching them, either from fear, or natural stupidity, did not stir;
and contented himself with stretching out his neck, when the cord
was presented to him. His head was twice in the noose, but the knot
slipped. At length, the sable having thrown himself upon the ground,
the dogs flew to seize him; but he presently freed himself, and with
his claws and teeth laid hold of the nose of one of the dogs, who
had no reason to be pleased with his reception. As we were desirous
of taking the animal alive, we kept back the dogs; the sable quitted
immediately his hold, and ran up a tree, where, for the third time, the
noose, which had been tied anew, was presented to him; it was not till
the fourth attempt that the Kamtschadale succeeded[26]. I could not
have imagined that an animal, who has so much the appearance of cunning
would have permitted himself to be caught in so stupid a manner, and
would himself have placed his head in the snare that was held up to
him. This easy mode of catching sables, is a considerable resource to
the Kamtschadales, who are obliged to pay their tribute in skins of
these animals, as I shall explain hereafter[27].
Two phenomena in the heavens were observed at the north-west, during
the nights of the 13 and 14. From the description that was given of
them, we judged that they were auroræ boreales, and we lamented that
we were not informed time enough to see them. The weather had been
tolerably fair during our stay at the baths; but the western part of
the sky had been almost constantly charged with very thick clouds. The
wind varied from west to north-west, and gave us now and then a shower
of snow, which did not yet acquire consistency, notwithstanding the
frosts which we experienced every night.
Our departure was fixed for the 17 October, and the 16 was spent in
the hurry and bustle which the last preparations generally occasion.
The rest of our route, as far as Bolcheretsk, was to be upon the
Bolchaïa-reka. Ten small boats, which properly speaking, appeared to
be merely trees scooped out in the shape of canoes, two and two lashed
together, served as five floats for the conveyance of ourselves and
part of our effects. We were obliged to leave the greater part at
Natchikin, on account of the impossibility of loading these floats with
the whole, and there were no means of increasing them. We had already
collected all the canoes that were in the village, and even some of
our ten had been brought from the ostrog of Apatchin, to which we were
going.
The 17, at break of day, we embarked upon these floats. Four
Kamtschadales, by means of long poles, conducted our rafts. But
they were frequently obliged to place themselves in the water, in
order to haul them along; the depth of the river in some places being
no more than one or two feet, and in others less than six inches.
Presently one of our floats received an injury; it was precisely that
which was freighted with our baggage, and we were obliged to unlade
every thing upon the bank, in order to refit it. We waited not, but
preferred leaving it behind, in order to proceed on our route. At
noon another accident, much more deplorable for men whose appetites
began to be clamorous, occasioned us a further delay. The float in
which our cookery was embarked, sunk all at once before our eyes. It
will be supposed we did not see the loss which threatened us, with
indifference; we were eager to save the wreck of our provisions; and
for fear of a greater misfortune, we wisely resolved to dine before
we proceeded any farther. Our dinner tended gradually to dispel our
fears, and gave us courage to discharge the water which over-loaded our
boats, and to resume our voyage. We had not advanced a werst, before we
met two boats coming to our assistance from Apatchin. We sent them to
the succour of the damaged float, and to supply the place of the boats
which were unfit for service. As we continued to advance at the head of
our embarkations, we at last entirely lost sight of them; but we met
with nothing disastrous till the evening.
I observed that the Bolchaïa-reka, in the windings which it
continually made, ran nearly in the direction of east-north-east and
west-south-west. Its current is very rapid; it appeared to me to flow
at the rate of five knots an hour; in the meantime the stones and the
shoals which we met with every instant, obstructed our passage to such
a degree, as to render the last hour of our conductors truly painful.
They avoided them with astonishing address, but as we approached nearer
the mouth of the river, I observed with pleasure that it became wider
and more navigable. I was equally surprised to see it divide into I
know not how many branches, which united again, after having watered
a variety of little islands, of which some are covered with wood.
The trees are every where very small and very bushy; we met with a
considerable number growing here and there in the very river itself,
which increase still farther the difficulty of the navigation, and
prove the carelessness, I may say the sloth, of these people. It never
occurs to them to root out these trees, and thus open a more easy
passage.
Different species of water-fowl, such as ducks, plovers, goëlands,
divers, and others, divert themselves in this river, the surface of
which is sometimes covered by them; but it is difficult to approach
near enough to shoot them. Game does not appear to be so common.
But for the tracks of the bears, and the half-devoured fish, which
continually presented themselves to our view, I should have believed
that they had imposed upon me, or at least that they had exaggerated,
in telling me of the multitude of these animals with which the
country abounds; we could perceive none; but we saw a great number of
black eagles, and others that had white wings; magpies, ravens, some
partridges, and an ermine walking by the side of the river.
Upon the approach of night, M. Kasloff rightly judged that it would be
more prudent to stop, than to continue our route, with the apprehension
of encountering obstacles similar to what had already impeded our
navigation. How were we to surmount them? we were unacquainted with
the river; and in the obscurity of the night, the least accident might
prove fatal to us. These considerations determined us to leave our
boats, and to pass the night on the right-hand bank of the river,
at the entrance of a wood, and near the place where captain King
and his party halted[28]. A good fire warmed and dried our whole
company. M. Kasloff had taken the precaution to place in his float
the accoutrements of a tent; and while we were pitching it, which was
done in a moment, we had the satisfaction to see two of our floats
arrive, which had not been able to keep up with us. The pleasure which
this reunion afforded us, the fatigue of the day, the convenience of
the tent, and our beds, which we had fortunately brought with us, all
contributed to make us pass a most comfortable night.
The next day we fitted ourselves out early and without difficulty. We
arrived in four hours at Apatchin, but our floats could not come up
as far as the village, on account of the shallowness of the water. We
landed about four hundred yards from the ostrog, and atchieved this
short distance on foot.
This village did not appear to me so considerable as the preceding
ones, that is, it contained perhaps three or four habitations less. It
is situated in a small plain, watered by a branch of the Bolchaïa-reka;
and on the side opposite to the ostrog is an extent of wood, which I
conceived might be an island formed by the different branches of this
river.
I learned by the way, that the ostrog of Apatchin, as well as that of
Natchikin, had not been always where they are at present. It is within
a few years only that the inhabitants, attracted without doubt by the
situation, or the hope of better and more commodious fishing, removed
their houses to this place. The distance of the new ostrog from the
former one is, as I was told, about four or five wersts.
Apatchin afforded nothing interesting. I left it to join our floats,
which had passed the shallows, and were waiting for us three wersts
from the ostrog, at the spot where the branch of Bolchaïa-reka, after
having made a circuit round the village, returns again to its channel.
The farther we advanced, the deeper and more rapid we found it; so
that nothing impeded our course the whole way to Bolcheretsk, where we
arrived at seven o'clock in the evening, accompanied by one only of
our floats, the rest not having kept pace with us.
We were no sooner landed, than the governor conducted me to his house,
where he had the civility to give me a lodging, which I occupied during
the whole time of my stay at Bolcheretsk. He not only procured me all
the conveniences and pleasures that were in his power, but furnished
me with all the information which might contribute to my advantage,
and which his office permitted him to give. His politeness often
anticipated my desires and my questions; and he contrived to stimulate
my curiosity, by presenting to it every thing which he thought was
calculated to interest me. It was with this view he proposed, almost
immediately upon our arrival, my going with him to view the galliot
from Okotsk, that had been unfortunately just shipwrecked at a little
distance from Bolcheretsk.
We had learned something of this melancholy news in our journey. It
was said that the bad weather, which the galliot had encountered at
its arrival, obliged it to come to anchor at the distance of a league
from the coast; but finding that it still drove, the pilot saw no other
means of saving the cargo than by running the vessel aground upon the
coast; accordingly he cut the cables, and the ship was dashed to pieces.
Upon the first intelligence of this event, the inhabitants of
Bolcheretsk flocked together to hasten to the succour of the vessel,
and to save at least the provisions with which it was freighted.
Immediately upon our arrival, M. Kasloff had given all the orders
which appeared to him to be necessary; but not satisfied with this, he
would go himself to see them carried into execution. He invited me to
accompany him, which I accepted with cheerfulness, promising myself
much pleasure from having an opportunity of viewing the mouth of the
Bolchaïa-reka, and the harbour which is formed by it.
We set off at eleven o'clock in the morning, upon two floats, of which
one, that which carried us, was formed of three canoes. Our conductors
made use of oars and sometimes of their poles, which frequently in
difficult and shallow passages, enabled them to resist the impetuosity
of the current, by keeping back the float, which would otherwise have
been carried along with rapidity and infallibly overturned.
The Bistraïa, another very rapid river, and larger than the
Bolchaïa-reka, joins it to the west, about the distance of half a
werst from Bolcheretsk. It loses its name at the conflux, and takes
that of the Bolchaïa-reka, which is rendered very considerable by this
addition, and empties itself into the sea at the distance of thirty
wersts.
We landed at seven o'clock in the evening at a little hamlet called
_Tchekafki_. Two isbas, two balagans, and a yourt almost in ruins,
were all the habitations I could perceive. There was also a wretched
warehouse, made of wood, to which they give the name of magazine,
because it belongs to the crown, and first receives the supplies with
which the galliots from Okotsk[29] are freighted. The hamlet was built
as a guard to this magazine. We passed the night in one of the isbas,
resolving to repair early in the morning to the wreck.
At break of day we embarked upon our floats. It was low water; we
coasted along a dry and very extensive sand bank, at the left of the
Bolchaïa-reka, as we advanced towards the sea, and which leaves to the
north a passage of only eight or ten fathoms wide, and two and a half
deep. The wind, which blew fresh from the north-west, suddenly agitated
the river, and we dared not risk ourselves in the channel. Our boats
also were so small, that a single wave half filled them; two men were
constantly employed in throwing out the water, and were scarcely able
to effect it. We advanced therefore as far as we could along this bank.
At length we perceived the mast of the galliot above a neck of low
land that extended to the south. It appeared to be about two wersts
from us, south of the entrance of the Bolchaïa-reka. At the point of
land just mentioned, we discovered the light house, and the cot of the
persons appointed to guard the wreck: unfortunately we could only see
all this at a distance. The direction of the river, from the place
where it empties itself into the sea, appeared to me to be north-west,
and its opening to be half a werst wide. The light-house is on the left
coast, and on the right is the continuation of the low land, which the
sea overflows in tempestuous weather, and which extends almost as far
as the hamlet of Tchekafki. The distance of the hamlet from the mouth
of the river is from six to eight wersts. The nearer we approach the
entrance, the more rapid is the current.
It was not possible to pursue our voyage; the wind became stronger,
and the waves increased every moment. It would have been the height
of imprudence to quit the sand bank, and cross, in such foul weather
and such feeble boats, two wersts of deep water, which is the width of
the bay formed by the mouth of the river. The governor, who had already
met with some proofs of my little knowledge of navigation, was very
anxious however to consult me upon this occasion. My advice was to tack
about, and return to the hamlet where we had slept; which was executed
immediately. We had great reason to be pleased with our prudence;
scarcely were we arrived at Tchekafki when the weather became terrible.
I consoled myself with the idea, that I had at least obtained my end,
which was to see the entrance of the Bolchaïa-reka. I can assert with
confidence, that the access to it is very dangerous, and impracticable
to ships of a hundred and fifty tons burthen. The Russian vessels are
too frequently shipwrecked, not to open the eyes both of navigators who
may be tempted to visit this coast, and of the nations who may think of
sending them.
The port, besides, affords no shelter. The low lands with which it is
surrounded, are no protection against the winds which blow from every
quarter. The banks also which the current of the river forms, are very
variable, and of course it is almost impossible to know with certainty
the channel, which must necessarily, from time to time, change it
direction as well as its depth.
We passed the rest of the day at Tchekafki, being unable to proceed to
the shipwrecked vessel, or to return to Bolcheretsk. The sky, instead
of clearing up, became covered on all sides with still blacker and
thicker clouds. Soon after our arrival, a dreadful tempest arose, and
the Bolchaïa-reka became agitated to an extreme violence, even so high
up as our hamlet. Its billows surprised me, because of the little
extent and depth of the river in this place. The point north-east of
its mouth, and the low land, which this gale of wind extended, formed
but one breaker, over which the waves rolled with a horrible noise. The
gale was not likely to abate, but I was on shore, and thought myself
able to brave it. I took it into my head therefore, to go a hunting
in the environs of the hamlet. I had scarcely advanced a few steps,
when the wind seized me, and I felt myself stagger; my courage however
did not fail me, and I persevered; but coming to a stream, which it
was necessary to cross in a boat, I ran the most imminent risk, and
returned immediately, well punished for my petty presumption. These
dreadful hurricanes being very common at this season, it is not be
wondered at that shipwrecks are so frequent on these coasts: the
vessels are so small as to have but one mast; and, what is still worse,
the sailors who manage them, if report may be credited, have too little
skill to be confided in.
The next day we resumed our journey, and arrived at Bolcheretsk in the
dusk of the evening.
As I forsee that my stay here will probably be long, from the
necessity of waiting till sledges can be used, I shall proceed with my
descriptions, and the recital of what I have seen myself, or learned
from my conversations with the Russians and Kamtschadales. I shall
begin with the town, or fort of Bolcheretsk, for so it is called, in
Russia (_ostrog_, or _krepost_).
It is situated on the border of the Bolchaïa-reka, in a small island
formed by different branches of this river, which divide the town into
three parts more or less inhabited. The most distant division, and
which is farthest to the east, is a kind of suburb called _Paranchine_;
it contains ten or twelve isbas. South-east of Paranchine, is the
middle division, where there is also a number isbas, and among others,
a row of wooden huts that serve for shops. Opposite to these is the
guard-house, which is also the chancery, or court of justice[30]; this
house is larger than the rest, and is always guarded by a centinel. A
second branch of the Bolchaïa-reka again separates, by a very narrow
stream, this group of habitations, built without order, and scattered
here and there, from another at the north-west, nearer the river. The
river in this part flows in the direction of south-east and north-west,
and passes within fifty yards of the governor's house. This house is
easily distinguished from the rest; it is higher, larger, and is built
like the wooden houses of St. Petersburg. Two hundred yards north-east
of this house, is the church; the construction of which is simple, and
like that of the village churches in Russia. By the side of it is an
erection of timber work, twenty feet high, covered only with a roof,
under which three bells are suspended. North-west of the governor's
house, and separated from it by a meadow or marsh about three hundred
yards wide, is another group of dwellings, consisting of twenty-five
or thirty isbas, and some balagans. There are in general very few of
these latter habitations at Bolcheretsk; the whole do not exceed ten;
the isbas and wooden houses, without including the eight shops, the
chancery, and the governor's house, amount to fifty or sixty.
From this minute description of the fort of Bolcheretsk, it must appear
strange that it retains so inapplicable a name; for I can affirm,
that no traces are to be found of fortifications, nor does it appear
that there has ever been an intention of erecting any. The state
and situation, both of the town and its port, induce me to believe,
that government have felt the innumerable dangers and obstacles
they would have to surmount, if they were to attempt to render it
more flourishing, and make it the general depôt of commerce to the
peninsula. Their views, as I have already observed, seem rather turned
to the port of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, which for its proximity,
safety, and easy access, merits the preference.
There is a degree of civilization at Bolcheretsk, which I did not
perceive at Petropavlofska. This sensible approach to European
manners, occasions a striking differrence between the two places. I
shall endeavour to point out and account for this as I proceed in my
observations upon the inhabitants of these ostrogs; for my principal
object should be, to give details of their employments, their customs,
their tastes, their diversions, their food, their understandings,
their character, their constitutions, and lastly, the principles of
government to which they are subjected.
The population of Bolcheretsk, including men, women and children,
amounts to between two and three hundred. Among these inhabitants,
reckoning the petty officers, there are sixty or seventy Cossacs, or
soldiers, who are employed in all labours that relate to the service
of government[31]. Each in his turn mounts guard; they clear the ways;
repair the bridges; unlade the provisions sent from Okotsk, and convey
them from the mouth of the Bolchaïa-reka to Bolcheretsk. The rest of
the inhabitants are composed of merchants and sailors.
These people, Russians and Cossacs, together with a mixed breed found
among them, carry on a clandestine commerce, sometimes in one article,
and sometimes in another; it varies as often as they see any reason
for changing it; but it is never with a view of enriching themselves
by honest means. Their industry is a continual knavishness; it is
solely employed in cheating the poor Kamtschadales, whose credulity and
insuperable propensity to drunkenness, leave them entirely at the mercy
of these dangerous plunderers. Like our mountebanks, and other knaves
of this kind, they go from village to village to inveigle the too silly
natives: they propose to sell them brandy, which they artfully present
to them to taste. It is almost impossible for a Kamtschadale, male
or female, to refuse this offer. The first essay is followed by many
others; presently their heads become affected, they are intoxicated,
and the craft of the tempters succeed. No sooner are they arrived to
a slate of inebriety, than these pilferers know how to obtain from
them the barter of their most valuable effects, that is, their whole
stock of furs, frequently the fruit of the labour of a whole season,
which was to enable them to pay their tribute to the crown, and procure
perhaps subsistance for a whole family. But no consideration can stop
a Kamtschadale drunkard; every thing is forgotten, every thing is
sacrificed to the gratification of his appetite, and the momentary
pleasure of swallowing a few glasses of brandy[32], reduces him to the
utmost wretchedness. Nor is it possible for the most painful experience
to put them on their guard against their own weakness, or the cunning
perfidy of these traders, who in their turn drink, in like manner, all
the profits of their knavery.
I shall terminate the article of commerce by adding, that the persons
who deal most in wholesale, are merely agents of the merchants of
Totma, Vologda, Grand Ustiug, and different towns of Siberia, or the
factors of other opulent traders, who extend even to this distant
country their commercial speculations.
All the wares and provisions, which necessity obliges them to purchase
from the magazines, are sold excessively dear, and at about ten times
the current price at Moscow. A _vedro_[33] of French brandy costs
eighty roubles[34]. The merchants are allowed to traffic in this
article; but the brandy, distilled from corn, which is brought from
Okotsk, and that produced by the country, which is distilled from the
_slatkaïa-trava_, or sweet herb, are sold, upon government account,
at forty one roubles ninety-six kopecks[35] the vedro. They can be
sold only in the _kabacs_, or public houses, opened for that purpose.
At Okotsk, the price of brandy distilled from corn is no more than
eighteen roubles the vedro; so that the expence of freight is charged
at twenty-three roubles ninety-six kopecks, which appears exorbitant,
and enables us to form some judgment of the accruing profit.
The rest of the merchandize consists of nankins and other China
stuffs, together with various commodities of Russian and foreign
manufacture, as ribands, handkerchiefs, stockings, caps, shoes,
boots, and other articles of European dress, which may be regarded
as luxuries, compared with the extreme simplicity of apparel of the
Kamtschadales. Among the provision imported, there are sugar, tea,
a small quantity of coffee, some wine, but very little, biscuits,
confections, or dried fruits, as prunes, raisins, &c. and lastly,
candles, both wax and tallow, powder, shot, &c.
The scarcity of all these articles in so distant a country, and the
need, whether natural or artificial, which there is for them, enable
the merchants to sell them at whatever exorbitant price their voracity
may affix. In common, they are disposed of almost immediately upon
their arrival. The merchants keep shops, each of them occupying one
of the huts opposite the guard-house; these shops are open every day,
except feast days.
The inhabitants of Bolcheretsk differ not from the Kamtschadales in
their mode of living; they are less satisfied, however, with balagans,
and their houses are a little cleaner.
Their clothing is the same. The outer garment, which is called
_parque_, is like a waggoner's frock, and is made of the skins of
deer, or other animals, tanned on one side. They wear under this long
breeches of similar leather, and next the skin a very short and tight
shirt, either of nankin or cotton stuff; the women's are of silk, which
is a luxury among them. Both sexes wear boots; in summer, of goats
or dogs skins tanned; and in winter, of the skins of sea wolves, or
the legs of rein deer[36]. The men constantly wear fur caps; in the
mild season they put on longer shirts of nankin, or of skin without
hair; they are made like the parque, and answer the same purpose,
that is, to be worn over their other garments. Their gala dress, is a
parque trimmed with otter skins and velvet, or other stuffs and furs
equally dear. The women are clothed like the Russian women, whose mode
of dress is too well known to need a description; I shall therefore
only observe, that the excessive scarcity of every species of stuff
at Kamtschatka, renders the toilet of the women an object of very
considerable expence: they sometimes adopt the dress of the men.
The principal food of these people consists, as I have already
observed, in dried fish. The fish are procured by the men, while the
women are employed in domestic occupations, or in gathering fruits and
other vegetables, which, next to the dried fish, are the favourite
provisions of the Kamtschadales and Russians of this country. When the
women go out to make these harvests for winter consumption, it is high
holy-day with them, and the anniversary is celebrated by a riotous and
intemperate joy, that frequently gives rise to the most extravagant and
indecent scenes. They disperse in crowds through the country, singing
and giving themselves up to all the absurdities which their imagination
suggests; no consideration of fear or modesty restrains them. I cannot
better describe their licentious frenzy than by comparing it with the
bacchanals of the Pagans. Ill betide the man whom chance conducts and
delivers into their hands! however resolute or however active he may
be, it is impossible to evade the fate that awaits him; and it is
seldom that he escapes, without receiving a severe flagellation.
Their provisions are prepared nearly in the following manner; it will
appear, from the recital, that they cannot be accused of much delicacy.
They are particularly careful to waste no part of the fish. As soon as
it is caught they tear out the gills, which they immediately suck with
extreme gratification. By another refinement of sensuality or gluttony,
they cut off also at the same time some slices of the fish, which they
devour with equal avidity, covered as they are with clots of blood.
The fish is then gutted, and the entrails reserved for their dogs. The
rest is prepared and dried; when they eat it either boiled, roasted, or
broiled, but most commonly raw.
The food which the epicures esteem most, and which appeared to me to be
singularly disgusting, is a species of salmon, called _tchaouitcha_.
As soon as it is caught, they bury it in a hole; and in this kind
of larder they leave it till it has had time to sour, or, properly
speaking, become perfectly putrified. It is only in this state of
corruption that it attains the flavour most pleasing to the delicate
palates of these people. In my opinion the infectious odour that
exhales from this fish, would suffice to repulse the most hungry being;
and yet a Kamtschadale feeds voluptuously upon this rotten flesh. How
fortunate does he consider himself when the head falls to his lot! this
is deemed the most delicious morsel, and is commonly distributed into
many parts. I frequently wished to overcome my aversion, and taste
this so highly valued food; but my resolution was unequal to it; and I
was not only unable to taste it, but even to bring it near my mouth;
every time I attempted, the fetid exhalation which it emitted gave me a
nausea, and disgusted me insuperably.
The most common fish in Kamtschatka are trouts, and salmon of different
species; sea wolves are also eaten; the fat of this fish is very
wholesome, and serves them beside for lamp oil.
Among the vegetables which are made use of by the Kamtschadales, the
principal are _sarana_ root, wild garlic, _slatkaïa-trava_, or sweet
herb, and other plants and fruits nearly similar to what are found in
Russia.
The _sarana_ is known to botanists[37]. Its shape, its size, and its
colour have been described at large in the third voyage of captain
Cook. Its farinaceous root serves instead of bread[38]. It is dried
before it is used; but it is wholesome and nourishing in whatever mode
it may be prepared.
From the wild garlic[39] they make a harsh and fermented beverage,
which has a very unpleasant taste; it is also used in various sauces;
the Kamtschadales are very fond of it.
The slatkaïa-trava, or sweet herb, is pleasant enough when it is fresh.
This plant[40] has also been minutely described by the English. It is
highly esteemed by the natives, particularly the spirit distilled from
it. Soon after it is gathered, they slit it in two, and scrape out
the pith with a muscle-shell: they then dry it for winter, and when
they use it in their ragouts, it is previously boiled. Brandy is also
distilled from this sweet herb, which, as I observed before, is sold on
account of government: for this purpose the plant is purchased of the
Kamtschadales[41].
There are three sorts of inhabitants, the natives or Kamtschadales,
the Russians and Cossacs, and the descendants from intermarriages.
The indigenes, that is, those whose blood is unmixed, are few in
number; the small pox has carried off three fourths of them, and the
few that are left are dispersed through the different ostrogs of the
peninsula; in Bolcheretsk it would be difficult to find more than one
or two.
The true Kamtschadales are in general below the common height; their
shape is round and squat, their eyes small and sunk, their cheeks
prominent, their nose flat, their hair black, they have scarcely
any beard, and their complexion is a little tawny. The complexion
and features of the women are very nearly the same; from this
representation, it will be supposed they are not very seducing objects.
The character of the Kamtschadales is mild and hospitable; they are
neither knaves, nor robbers; they have indeed so little penetration,
that nothing is more easy than to deceive them, as we have seen in
the advantage that is taken of their propensity to intoxication.
They live together in the utmost harmony, and the more so, it would
seem, on account of the smallness of their number. This unanimity
disposes them to assist one another in their labours, which is no
small proof of their zeal to oblige, if we consider the natural and
extreme slothfulness of their disposition. An active life would be
insupportable to them; and the greatest happiness, in their estimation,
next to that of getting drunk, is to have nothing to do, and to live
for ever in tranquil indolence. This is carried so far with these
people, as frequently to make them neglect the means of providing the
indispensable necessaries of life; and whole families are often reduced
to all the severities of famine, because they would not take the pains
of providing in summer a reserve of fish, without which they are unable
to live. If they neglect in this manner the preservation of their
existence, it is not to be supposed that they are more attentive to the
article of cleanliness; it displays itself neither in their persons,
nor their habitations; and they may justly be reproached for being
addicted to the contrary extreme. Notwithstanding this carelessness,
and other natural defects, it must be regretted that their number is
not more considerable; as, from what I have seen, and what has been
confirmed to me by different persons, if we would be sure of finding
sentiments of honour and humanity in this country, it is necessary to
seek for them among the true Kamtschadales; they have not yet bartered
their rude virtues for the polished vices of the Europeans sent to
civilize them.
It was at Bolcheretsk that I began to perceive the effects of their
influence. I saw the trace of European manners, less in the mixture
of blood, in the conformation of features, and the idiom of the
inhabitants, than in their inclinations and mode of life, which did not
always discover any very considerable fund of virtue. This striking
difference between the inhabitants and the indigenes, springs, in my
opinion, from the difficulties which lie in the road to civilization,
and I will assign my reasons.
Bolcheretsk, not long ago, was the chief place of Kamtschatka,
particularly as the governors had thought proper to establish their
residence there. The chiefs and their suites introduced European
knowledge and manners: these, it is known, generally become adulterated
in transmission, according to the distance from the source. Meanwhile
it is to be presumed that the Russian government was careful, as far
as it was possible, to confide its authority and the execution of its
orders, only to officers of acknowledged merit, if I may judge from
those who are at present employed; and it is therefore to be supposed
that these officers, in the places of their residence, were so many
examples of the virtues, the acquirements, and all the estimable
qualities of civilized nations. But unfortunately the lessons which
they gave, were not always so efficacious as might have been expected;
either because being only sketches, they were not sufficiently felt, or
rather, not being imbibed in all their purity, they made but momentary
or perhaps vicious impressions on the mind.
These reformers found not the same zeal either in the Cossacs who
composed the garrison, or in the merchants and other Russian emigrants
who settled in the peninsula. The disposition to licenciousness, and
the desire of gain, which the first conquerors of a country almost
always bring with them, and the continual development of these
qualities, by the facility with which the natives may be duped,
contributed to check the progress of reform. The fatal infection was
still more diffusely spread by intermarriages, while the seed of the
social virtues, which had been attempted to be sown, scarcely found a
reception.
The consequence has been, that the natives, or true Kamtschadales, have
preserved almost universally their ignorant simplicity and uncultivated
manners; and that a part of the rest of the inhabitants, Russians
and mixed breed, who have settled themselves in the ostrogs where
the governors reside, still retain indeed a faint shade of European
manners, but not of such as are most pure. We have already had a proof
of this in what has been said of their commercial principles, and my
conviction has been rendered stronger during my abode at Bolcheretsk,
by a closer study of the inhabitants, who, this faint shade excepted,
differ little from the indigenes.
M. Kasloff, and those who accompanied him, in imitation of his example,
frequently give entertainments or balls to the ladies of this ostrog,
who accept such invitations with equal alacrity and joy. I had an
opportunity of seeing that what I had been told was true; that these
women, the Kamtschadales as well as the Russians, have a strong
propensity to pleasure; their eagerness indeed is so great, that they
are unable to conceal it. The precosity of the girls is astonishing,
and seems not at all to be affected by the coldness of the climate.
With respect to the women of Bolcheretsk, who were present at these
assemblies, and who were chiefly either of mixed blood or of Russian
parents, their figures in general did not appear disagreeable, and I
perceived some who might be considered as handsome: but the freshness
of youth is not of long duration; from child-bearing, or the painful
labours to which they are subjected, it fades away almost in the
flower of their age. Their disposition is extremely cheerful; a
little, perhaps, at the expence of decency. They endeavour to amuse the
company by every thing which their gaiety and playfulness can furnish.
They are fond of singing, and their voice is pleasant and agreeable;
it is only to be wished that their music had less resemblance to their
soil, and approached nearer to our own. They speak both the Russian
and Kamtschadale languages, but they all preserve the accent of the
latter idiom. I little expected to see in this part of the world Polish
dances, and still less country dances in the English taste; but what
was my surprise to find that they had even an idea of a minuet! Whether
my abode for twenty six months upon the sea, had rendered me less
fastidious, or that the recollections they revived fascinated my eyes,
these dances appeared to be executed with tolerable precision, and
more grace than I could have imagined. The dancers of whom we speak,
have so much vanity as to hold in contempt the songs and dances of the
natives. The toilet of the women on these occasions is an object of no
trivial attention. They deck themselves out in all their allurements,
and whatever is most costly. These ceremonious and ball dresses are
principally of silks; and in the article of commerce we have already
seen that they must be expensive. I shall finish this account with
a remark that I had occasion to make, both in these assemblies and
in those of the Kamtschadales; it is, that the majority of husbands,
Russians as well as natives, are not susceptible of jealousy; they
voluntarily shut their eyes upon the conduct of their wives, and are as
docile as possible upon this chapter.
The entertainments and assemblies of the native Kamtschadales, at which
I was also present, offered a spectacle equally entitled to notice
for its singularity. I know not which struck me most, the song or the
dance. The dance appeared to me to be that of savages. It consisted
in making regular movements, or rather unpleasant and difficult
distortions, and in uttering at the same time a forced and gutteral
sound, like a continued hiccough, to mark the time of the air sung by
the assembly, the words of which are frequently void of sense, even in
Kamtschadale. I noted down one of these airs, which I shall insert in
this place, in order to give an idea of their music and metre.
[Illustration: (Music)
Daria, Daria, da, Daria, ha, nou
dalatché, damatché, kannha, koukka.
_Da Capo._
]
The words mean,
Daria[42], Daria sings and dances still.
This air is repeated without ceasing.
In their dances they are fond of imitating the different animals they
pursue, such as the partridge and others, but principally the bear.
They represent its sluggish and stupid gait, its different feelings
and situations; as the young ones about their dam; the amourous sports
of the male with the female; and lastly, its agitation when pursued.
They must have a perfect knowledge of this animal, and have made it
their particular study, for they represent all its motions as exactly,
I believe, as it is possible. I asked the Russians, who were greater
connoisseurs than myself, having been oftener present at the taking of
these animals, whether their pantomime ballets were well executed; and
they assured me that the dancers were the best in the country, and that
the cries, gait, and various attitudes of the bear, were as accurate
as life. Meanwhile, without offence to the amateurs, these dances
are, in my opinion, not less fatiguing to the spectators than to the
performers. It is a real pain to see them distort their hips, dislocate
every limb, and wear out their lungs, to express the excess of pleasure
which they take in these strange balls, which, I repeat it, resemble
the absurd diversions of savages: the Kamtschadales may indeed, in many
respects, be considered as of that rank.
Having given an account of the address with which these people
counterfeit the postures and motions of the bear, who may be called
their dancing master, it may not be unpleasing to relate in what
manner they hunt this animal. There are various modes of attacking
it; sometimes they lay snares for it: under a heavy trap, supported in
the air by a scaffolding sufficiently high, they place some kind of
bait to attract the bear, and which he no sooner smells and perceives,
than he eagerly advances to devour; at the same time he shakes the
feeble support of the trap, which falls upon his neck, and punishes his
voraciousness by crushing his head, and frequently his whole body. In
passing the woods I have seen them caught in this way; the trap is kept
baited till it succeeds, which sometimes does not happen for almost
a year. This method of taking them requires no great boldness, or
fatigue; but there is another mode, very much adopted in this country,
to which equal strength and courage are necessary. A Kamtschadale goes
out, either alone or in company, to find a bear. He has no other arms
than his gun, a kind of carabine whose but-end is very small; a lance
or spear; and his knife. His stock of provision is made up in a bundle
containing about twenty fish. Thus lightly equipped, he penetrates
into the thickest part of the woods, and every place that is likely to
be the haunt of this animal. It is commonly in the briars, or among
the rushes on the borders of lakes and rivers, that the Kamtschadale
posts himself, and waits the approach of his adversary with patience
and intrepidity; if it be necessary, he will remain thus in ambuscade
for a whole week together, till the bear makes his appearance. The
moment it comes within his reach, he fixes in the ground a forked
stick[43] belonging to his gun, by means of which he takes a truer aim,
and shoots with more certainty. It is seldom that, with the smallest
ball, he does not strike the bear either in the head, or near the
shoulder, which is the tenderest part. But he is obliged to charge
again instantly, because the bear, if the first shot has not disabled
him, runs[44] at the hunter, who has not always time for a second shot.
He has then recourse to his lance, with which he quickly arms himself
to contend with the beast, who attacks him in his turn. His life is
in danger[45] if he does not give the bear a mortal thrust; and in
such combats, it may be supposed the man is not always the conqueror;
but this does not prevent the inhabitants of this country from daily
exposing their lives; the frequent examples of the death of their
countrymen has no effect upon them: indeed they never go out, without
considering before hand that it is either to conquer or to die; and
this severe alternative neither stops nor terrifies them[46].
They hunt other animals nearly in the same manner, such as rein deer,
argali, or wild sheep, called in Russia _diki-barani_, foxes, otters,
beavers, sables, hares[47], &c. but they have not the same dangers
to encounter; sometimes they make use of snares, constructed of wood
or iron, less than those which are set for bears, and resembling in
their simplicity our pitfalls; no other attention is necessary than
that of visiting them from time to time. The Kamtschadales sometimes
lie in ambush, armed in the manner I have described; and the only
hardship they experience results from their provision being exhausted
in consequence of the long duration of their chace. They frequently
submit to suffer hunger for many days together, rather than quit their
stations till they have obtained the end of their pursuit; but they
amply repay themselves for this fasting, by immediately devouring the
flesh of the animals[48], and by the pleasure with which they count
over the skins they obtain from them.
They chuse for their chace the seasons when the fur of the animal
is in its greatest perfection. Sables are hunted in the beginning of
winter. These animals live commonly in trees, and are called after
their name; a part of the fur nearest the skin being of the same colour
as those which they most frequent, as the birch, the fir, &c.
The most favourable seasons for hunting foxes are autumn, winter, and
spring. There are four different species. 1. The whitish red fox, which
is least esteemed. 2. The red or bright red fox. 3. The fox called
_sévadouschka_, the colour of which is a mixture of red, black, and
grey. 4. The black fox, which is the scarcest and most valuable: it
is really of a deep and entire black, except that at the extremity of
the fur upon the back, which is the longest; a grey tint is sometimes
perceptible. Some of this species are singularly valuable. There are
two other species of the fox that may be added to these, though they
are not regarded as such in this country, the blue fox and the white
fox. They are called in Russia _galouboy pessets_, and _beloy pessets_;
their fur is thicker than that of the rest of the species. The foxes of
the continent are in general more beautiful than those caught in the
different islands of the east[49], and produce an infinitely higher
price.
Rein deer are hunted in winter, and argali in autumn. Otters are
extremely scarce in this country; but there is a great abundance of
ermines, though, I know not for what reason, no pains are taken to
catch them; one would suppose they were of no value.
The Kamtschadales have different seasons also for fishing. Their salmon
and trout season is in June, their herring season in May, and that of
the sea wolf in spring and summer, but principally in autumn.
They seldom use seines, but almost always common nets[50], or a kind
of harpoon, which they manage with great dexterity. Seines serve only
for sea wolves; they are made of leather straps, and the meshes are
very large. They have another mode of fishing, by closing up the river
with stakes and branches of trees, so as to leave only a narrow passage
for the fish, or sometimes several, where they place baskets, so
constructed that, if the fish once enter, it is impossible for them to
retreat.
Horses are very scarce in Kamtschatka. I saw some at Bolcheretsk
belonging to government, and intrusted to the care of the Cossacs. They
merely serve during summer for the carriage of merchandize and other
effects of the crown, and for the convenience of travellers.
Dogs however abound in this country, and are so serviceable to the
Kamtschadales, as to render the privation of the other domestic animals
less felt by them. They serve all the purposes of carriage, and are fed
without difficulty or expence, their food consisting entirely of the
offals, or such decayed fish as are rejected by their masters; and
even these are not allowed, unless when it is necessary. In summer,
which is their season of rest, little care is taken of them; the dogs
well know how to provide for themselves, by ranging over the country
and along the sides of lakes and rivers; and the punctuality with which
they return, is one of the most striking proofs of the fidelity of
these animals. When winter arrives, they dearly pay for the liberty
and temporary repose they have enjoyed. Their labour and slavery begin
anew, and these dogs must have extreme vigour to be able to support
them. Meanwhile they are not remarkably large, and resemble pretty
exactly our mountain dogs, or such as are commonly used by shepherds.
There is not an individual inhabitant, Russian or native, that has
less than five. They make use of them when they travel, when they go
to the forests to cut wood, and for the conveyance of their effects
and provisions, as well as their persons. In short, these dogs conduct
travellers from place to place, and horses could not in reality be more
serviceable. They are harnessed to a sledge two and two together[51],
with a single one before as a leader. This honour is bestowed on
the most intelligent, or the best trained dog, and he understands
wonderfully the terms used by the conductor to direct his course. The
cry of _tagtag, tagtag_, turns him to the right, and _kougha, kougha_,
to the left; the intelligent animal understands it immediately, and
gives to the rest the example of obedience: _ah, ah_, stops them, and
_ha_ makes them set off. The number of dogs that it is necessary to
harness, depends upon the load; when it is little more than the weight
of the person who mounts the sledge, it is considered as a common
sledge, or _saunka_[52], and the team consists of four or five dogs.
The harness[53] is made of leather. It passes under the neck, that is,
upon the breast of these steeds, and is joined to the sledge by a strap
three feet long, in the manner of a trace: the dogs are also fastened
together by couples passed through their collars; these collars are
frequently covered with bear's skin, by way of ornament.
The form of the sledge is like that of an oblong basket, the two
extremities of which are elevated in a curve. Its length is about three
feet, and its breadth scarcely exceeds a foot. This kind of basket,
which composes the body of the sledge, is of very thin wood; the sides
are of open work, and ornamented with straps of different colours.
The seat of the charioteer is covered with bear's skin, and elevated
three feet from the ground, upon four legs, which diverge towards
the lower extremity, and are fastened to two parallel planks, three
or four inches broad. These planks are not thick, but so long as to
extend beyond the body of the sledge, to which they serve as supports
and and as skates. For this purpose they are furnished underneath, in
time of thaw, with three or four long pieces of whale-bone, all of
them of the same breadth, and fastened to the skates with leathern
thongs. In front these planks bend upward, and so meet the poles of
the sledge, which gradually lower for that purpose, and are adapted
to receive a part of the baggage. The front of the sledge is farther
adorned with floating reins or shreds of leather, which are of no
use. The charioteer has nothing in his hand but a curved stick, which
serves him both for rudder and whip. Iron rings are suspended at one
end of the stick, as much for ornament, as to encourage the dogs by
the noise which these kind of bells make, and which are frequently
jingled for that purpose; the other end is sometimes pointed with iron,
to make an easier impression on the ice, and serves at the same time
to guide the ardour of these animals. Dogs, that are well trained,
have no need to hear the voice of the conductor; if he strike the
ice with his stick, they will go to the left; if he strike the legs
of the sledge, they will go to the right; and when he wishes them to
stop, he has only to place the stick between the snow and the front
of the sledge. When they slacken their pace, and become careless and
inattentive to the signals, or to his voice, he throws his stick at
them[54]; but then the utmost address is necessary to regain it, as
he proceeds rapidly along; and this is one of the strongest tests of
the skill of the conductor. The Kamtschadales are singularly expert
in this exercise. I was in general astonished at the dexterity they
displayed in driving their sledges, and as I was soon to have the
happiness of travelling in this vehicle, I conceived that I ought to
practice, not so much to reconcile myself to it, as to learn to be my
own guide. It was in vain they represented to me the risks I should
run, by exposing myself alone in a sledge, before I had acquired
sufficient skill to know how to conduct it; at my age we are all
confident, and I listened not to their cautions. The lightness of my
carriage, which scarcely exceeded ten pounds, its elevation, which
rendered it more liable to be overturned, the difficulty of preserving
the equilibrium, and, in short, the consequences that might attend a
fall, if I lost my hold of the sledge[55]; all these considerations,
which were exposed to my view, could neither intimidate nor dissuade
me from so dangerous an apprenticeship. I mounted one day my new car,
consenting however to be followed, and a multitude of sledges attended
me. It was not long before the company saw their predictions realized;
I had advanced a very little way, when I exhibited a complete fall.
Scarcely remounted, I repeated the scene, and occasioned a new burst
of laughter: in spite of this, I did not lose my courage, but quickly
recovered myself to be overturned again as quickly. I had sufficient
reason to be inured to these accidents, for in every attempt I paid
the tribute of inexperience. Seven times did I fall in taking my first
lesson, but without receiving any injury; and I only returned with more
eagerness to take a second, then a third, then a fourth; in short, a
day scarcely passed, without my making some progress. The number of
my falls diminished, in proportion as I acquired more knowledge and
skill, and my success rendered me such an amateur of this exercise,
that in a short time I acquired a degree of reputation; it cost me,
however, considerable pains to habituate myself to the observance
of the necessary equilibrium. The body is, as it were, in continual
motion. Here we must lean to the right, because the sledge inclines to
the left; there we must suddenly change to the left, because it leans
to the right: the next minute, perhaps our posture must be erect; and
if we fail in quickness or attention, it is seldom that an immediate
overthrow is not the consequence. In falling, it is still necessary
not to quit the vehicle, but to hold it as firm as possible, in order
to create a sufficient weight to impede the dogs, who, as I have
already said, will otherwise advance full speed. The common mode of
sitting in a sledge is side ways, as a lady rides on horseback; we may
also sit astride; but the point of main difficulty, the _ne plus ultra_
of address and of grace, is to be able to stand upon one leg: it is
excellent to see an adept in this striking attitude.
For myself, I was no sooner able to drive, than I abandoned every
other mode of conveyance. Always accompanied, because of the roads,
I sometimes took a ride, and sometimes went a hunting. The tracks of
hares and partridges were perceptible on the snow[56], and to such
a degree, that it appeared full of holes like a sieve. The snow was
frequently so deep in the woods, that it was impossible to proceed a
step without sinking in; our resource in that case was to quit our
sledges, which were no longer serviceable to us, and turn them upon
their side. Having taking this precaution, which was sufficient to
retain our dogs, who immediately laid themselves down in a circular
form upon the snow, and patiently waited the return of their guides;
we fastened to the soles of our feet, with leathern thongs, rackets,
made of thin board[57], six or eight inches wide and four feet long,
the front of which turned up like skates, and the bottom was covered
with the skin of the sea wolf or rein deer. Furnished with these kind
of shoes, we continued our chace; I had at first some difficulty to
accustom myself to them, and I fell more than once both upon my back
and my face; but the pleasure of a good chase made me soon forget
these accidents. Though it was difficult to perceive the hares and
partridges, whose whiteness equalled that of the snow, I did not fail,
after a little practice, and some instructions from my companions, to
bring home a tolerable number.
This was one of my most agreeable diversions while at Bolcheretsk;
the rest of my hours were occupied in expressing my impatience and
uneasiness, on account of the length of time I was obliged to stay
there. To give a different turn to my thoughts, I embraced the few fine
days that we experienced, to visit some of the environs, which I had
a second opportunity of viewing upon my departure, and which I shall
mention when I proceed on my travels. The construction of my travelling
sledges[58] engaged also my attention; but my chief consolation was the
company of M. Kasloff and the officers of his suite. Their conventions,
and the enquiries which I made, enabled me almost every day to take
notes, a part of which I have already transcribed, and shall now
proceed with the rest.
The diseases that prevail in Kamtschatka is the first article that
presents itself. Disagreeable as may be the details they require, I
conceive that I ought not to suppress them; they form a part of my
observations, and should have a place in my journals.
The small pox, whose ravages I have already mentioned, appears not to
be natural to the country, nor is it very common. Since the invasion
of the Russians, and the frequent emigrations that succeeded it, this
epidemical disease has only made its appearance in 1767 and 1768. It
was then brought into the country by a Russian vessel bound to the
Eastern islands, for the purpose of hunting otters, foxes, and other
animals. The person, who had in his blood the fatal germ, was a sailor
from Okotsk, where he had taken remedies for the disorder, previous
to his departure; but the recent marks of it were visible. Scarcely
landed, he communicated this cruel malady to the poor Kamtschadales,
which carried off three fourths of them. As it has not appeared since,
it is supposed that these people are not subject to it. In the year
1720 it broke out in the northern part of Kamtschatka but it did not
spread so far as the peninsula. It began at Anadirskoi; it is not
known how it was brought there, though the Russians are also accused in
this instance.
There is reason to suspect that the Kamtschadales are indebted to them
in like manner for their knowledge of the venereal disease, which
happily is not common. This pestilence appears to be exotic, and its
cure is as difficult as it is rare. They have recourse to various
roots and to corrosive sublimate, which is attended in this country
with its usual ruinous effects, and the more so, as being indiscreetly
administered.
The Kamtschadales have no deformed births. Such as are deformed among
them, have become so in consequence of a considerable fall, though this
is not a very common occurrence, as they are accustomed to fall from
their balagans. They are but little subject to the scurvy; their use
of wild garlic, and various fruits and berries, is a preservative. The
Russians and other settlers are more frequently afflicted with this
disease.
Consumptions are frequent enough; but boils, tumors, abscesses, and
wens, are very common. They have no mode of curing them, but by
incision or extirpation; and they use for these operations a knife, or
perhaps simply a sharp stone, which supplies the place of a lancet.
Such instruments are calculated to impress us with no very high
opinion of the skill of the operators; and it is obvious that the art
of surgery, brought to such perfection with us, is in a state of the
utmost barbarism at Kamtschatka.
Physic does not appear to have made a greater progress; though it must
be confessed that these people have gained something by learning to
distrust their impostors and absurd empiricks. Formerly, self-created
magicians, called _chamans_, taking advantage of the credulity of the
Kamtschadales, turned doctors of physic, and thus secured to themselves
a double claim to their veneration and confidence[59]. Their strange
dress contributed to the imposition, and suited perfectly their
extravagant mummeries. What was told me upon the subject would exceed
the utmost stretch of faith, if we had never heard of the Bohemians and
other sorcerers of this kind. It is not possible to form an idea of the
buffooneries of these suppositious physicians, and the impertinencies
they relate, to make their prescriptions or pretended revelations go
down. It is probable that their cures were frequently attended with
fatal consequences, and that the number of victims equalled that of
their patients. Tired at last of being duped at the expence of their
lives, the Kamtschadales began to be dissatisfied with these impostors,
who gradually lost their credit, and sunk into contempt and oblivion.
Such has been the fate also of the chamans. The feeble light which the
Russian commerce diffused through the country, proved sufficient to
open the eyes of the inhabitants. They perceived at once the absurdity
of the magic art of their doctors. As it ceased to be respected, it was
no longer lucrative, and the number of magicians diminished of course.
Disgusted with the trade, the men abandoned it; and it has since been
taken up by some old women, who, possessing less skill, have doubtless
fewer customers[60].
The women of this country have seldom more than ten children, the
common estimate is four or five, they bear none after the age of
forty. They assist one another in their deliveries, which are effected
with great facility: meanwhile there are midwives in Kamtschatka, but
their number is very small. The accidents which prove fatal to so many
mothers, are much less frequent to these women, than instances of
child-birth in the open air, in roads, or wherever their occupations
call them. On these occasions they make use of their hair, I am told,
to tie the umbilical cord, carry home their children themselves, and
immediately give them suck. They have no limited time for suckling
their children, and I have seen instances of its continuing for
four or five years. We may judge from this circumstance of the
strong constitution of these women. It is observed, however, that
Kamtschadales of either sex, do not live longer than Russians.
I forgot to mention a remedy to which the inhabitants of this peninsula
have voluntary recourse in almost every disease: it is to a root
called _bears root_, which they steep in brandy. The name sufficiently
indicates to whom they are indebted for its knowledge. Perceiving that
the bear was fond of eating this herb, and of rolling himself upon it
when wounded, they imagined it to possess some healing quality, and
this induced them to make use of it. This animal thus gave them their
first lesson in botany and pharmacy. It is said however, that the bear
cures all his wounds with this root. If this be true, it is natural to
suppose that human beings would find it very serviceable: but as I have
never had occasion to make the experiment, I can only speak from report.
The Christian religion was introduced into this country by the
Russians; but the inhabitants appear to know little more of it than the
ceremony of baptism. They are ignorant of the very first principles of
Christianity. Slaves to their inclinations, they follow their impulse
whether good or bad. If they think of religion, it is merely from a
motive of convenience or interest, or when particular circumstances
compel them to it. This proves how very defective their instruction
is, and reflects in my opinion upon the clergy, whose business it
is to enlighten their ignorance. But are these clerical missionaries
sufficiently informed themselves? They have no opportunity it must be
acknowledged for profound study, and probably it is not required of
them, as it is common enough to see a Kamtschadale admitted to this
dignified office.
These popes are all under the authority of a protapope, or high priest,
resident at Nijenei, and he again is subordinate to the archbishop of
Irkoutsk, who alone ordains and appoints the clergy to their cures, so
that they are all obliged to resort to this settlement. The length and
perils of the journey are considered perhaps as a kind of initiation;
and without any other merit or examination, they probably receive holy
orders: it is certain they return neither wiser nor better. These
divines are then sent to their places of destination; the time they
continue is not limited, and depends on the will of their chiefs.
There are eight principal churches in Kamtschatka: Paratounka,
Bolcheretsk, Jchinsk, Tiguil, Vercknei, Klutchefskaïa, and two at
Nijenei; to these may be added the church of Ingiga, in the country of
the Koriacs.
The district or parish of Paratounka includes seven ostrogs and the
Kurilles islands; viz. the ostrog of the same name, Saint Peter and
Saint Paul, Koriaki, Natchikin, Apatchin, Malkin, and Bolcheretsk. The
number of parishioners contained in these ostrogs, does not exceed four
hundred; and including the Kurilles islands, the general calculation
is not more than six hundred and twenty Christians. The rector of
Paratounka is allowed by the empress a salary of eighty roubles, and
twenty _pouds_[61] of rye flour. His parishioners of consequence, pay
no tythes; but he receives alms and other casual emoluments attached to
his church. For a marriage, a christening, or a burial, these priests
demand whatever they please. There is no regulation in this respect,
and every thing is governed solely by their caprice, which occasions
considerable impositions and abuses. In general however, they endeavour
to proportion their demands to the abilities of their parishioners, a
discretion that is entitled to applause.
The Kamtschadales are free. They are subject only to an annual tribute
to Russia, which consists, as I have already said, in various kinds
of furs; so that the produce of their chace, turns almost entirely to
the advantage of the empress. Every chief of a family is obliged to
furnish for himself and for each of his children, even such as are in
their minority, a certain quantity of skins equivalent to his share of
taxation: this may amount to seven roubles more or less, and the skins,
I am told, are generally valued at the lowest possible price. This mode
of paying tribute must produce a considerable revenue to the crown,
if we merely judge from the number of sables the province annually
supplies, which is something more than four thousand. The toyon of each
ostrog collects the taxes, and remits them to the treasurer of the
crown; a receipt is previously given to every individual of the amount
of his tribute, and each Kamtschadale takes care to mark with his seal,
or some other sign, all the furs that he delivers.
The current coins are the golden imperial of ten roubles; the rouble,
and half rouble. There are very few silver coins below this value;
a proof that no article of merchandize is expected to produce less
than half a rouble. Copper and paper money have not yet reached this
peninsula. A variety of old silver coins of the times of Peter I.
Catherine I. and Elizabeth, abound here. A considerable branch of
commerce may be made of them; the silver is purer and more valuable
than that of common coins.