who lived with him, received us warmly, offering that ready and
insistent hospitality that struck us as being a special feature of
the Ivizan life. Our winter in Majorca had accustomed us to the
polite but purely perfunctory fashion in which, like the Spaniard,
the Majorcan tenders food to all comers, secure in the knowledge
that it will be declined. But when the Ivizan offers refreshment to
the visitor he means it to be accepted.
The moment we were all seated on chairs set round the walls of the
wide, airy room into which the large door directly opened, the good
old father hastened to bring out a tray of tiny glasses and a
decanter of the pure, amber-hued Ivizan wine--wine that had been
pressed from grapes ripened close by. And the mother ran to fetch a
plate of sweet biscuits and goblets of clear water. Then they
watched with genuine pleasure while we sipped the wine, and, having
praised it in all sincerity, followed the custom of the country and
drank of the water.
The sole family of the worthy couple had been two sons, both of whom
had shown a vocation for the Church. The one in whose house they
lived was now cura of Jesus, the other that of San Raphael, only a
short walk distant.
Our casual visit to the little hamlet left in our minds an unfading
picture of rustic sweetness of atmosphere and of modest pride that
had attained its ideal.
From there we went to see a fine old country house, one of the
"possessions" of a friend of Don Narciso, who, though he does not
live there, courteously cycled over to do the honours. From the
roofed _mirador_ we had a good view of the town rising on its rocky
height above the sea.
Here, too, we had evidence of the Ivizan spirit of hospitality.
Native wine was again offered us, and from the orange gardens down
by the palm-encircled _noria_ we got abundance of huge oranges, and
a curious fruit that, with the outward appearance of the lemon,
boasted the sweetness of the orange allied to a floating essence of
bergamot.
There the kindly Don Pepe joined us, and together we walked back
through the gloaming.
At dinner the new Governor, still in uniform, his handsome wife and
their three nice boys again were present. After the State reception
of the morning, it amazed us to see with what an utter lack of
consideration they were treated. The very officers who had risen at
daybreak and donned their best uniforms to honour his arrival sat at
table with the Governor as though unconscious of his presence.
The sole sign of deference that we could discover was that the
landlord and Paco had put on their best coats in which to wait at
table. But there the distinction ended. In common with the others,
the Governor and his family patiently endured the tedious service.
To me it was almost painful to see the representative of official
power sit uncomplainingly, until the overworked Paco, having made
the round of the long table, handed the few chilled fragments still
remaining in the dish to the hero of the imposing little ceremony of
the morning. It made us inclined to wonder if the hospitality of the
Ivizans was confined to the humbler classes, or whether it would
have been a breach of Ivizan etiquette had one or other of the
principal residents offered these new-comers the freedom of their
homes.
So ended our visit to Iviza. For when dinner was over and our
farewells said, the _Cataluna_ was ready to take us back to Palma.
Our experience of the remote island that we had approached with
doubts had been a thoroughly delightful one, and when we steamed out
over the placid water we watched the lights of Iviza sink in the
distance with the feeling that we left real friends among the kindly
islanders.
Our visit had been a short one, yet our minds held precious memories
of the sincere and kindly people--of the padre, Don Pepe, and his
affectionate care for his flock; of Narciso and his pictures, of the
loves of Antonia and Antonio, and of the dear old father and mother
of the cura of Jesus.
Though it lacks the savage grandeur of some parts of Majorca, Iviza
has beautiful and romantic scenery, and life in the lovely island is
sweet and simple and wholesome. There is little money in
circulation, but more is not needed. The ground is fertile, the
climate gracious, the water-supply is unfailing, and fish may be had
for the catching. So food is plentiful and cheap. House rent in the
town of Iviza may be counted at about a half less than in Palma, and
when the townsfolk speak of the cost of living in the smaller towns,
such as San Antonio, they hold up their hands at the amazing
cheapness of it.
This, then, was our impression of Iviza, the remote island about
which such extravagant tales are circulated. That fire-arms and
knives still play a part when the interests of rival lovers clash is
openly acknowledged. But during our visit the course of true love
must have run smoothly, for no echo of pistol shot or clash of
weapon marred the peace of our stay.
As we found the people of that forgotten isle--honest, courteous,
generous, and hospitable, quaint of dress and soft of voice--so have
I written.
[Illustration: Moorish Tower at the Port of Alcudia]
XXIX
LAST DAYS
The golden months had flown past, speeding so swiftly that we felt
as though time must have defrauded us. Scarcely a day seemed to have
elapsed after our return from Iviza before we were saying, "Next
week we must go home."
But before beginning preparation for departure, three days were our
own. Three clear days in which to take a real lazy holiday; for
though the holiday spirit had pervaded our wanderings, we had all
been working hard. To be really idle we knew we must seek a spot
already familiar to us, one that offered no temptation to register
fresh impressions. And a brief family conclave found us unanimous in
the opinion that the port of Alcudia, from which, in January, we
had sailed to Minorca, was the ideal place.
Friday morning found us at La Puebla station, mounting the little
one-horse diligence that runs to and from Alcudia in connection with
the trains.
I shared the box-seat with a semi-comatose driver, a big box, a
bigger sack, a loaf of bread, and sundry nondescript parcels.
Besides my people, the only occupant of the interior was a bronzed
young man who had travelled in the same compartment with us from
Palma.
In the train the studied perfection of his dress had made me wonder
on what errand of ceremony he was bound. His trousers and waistcoat
were of very light pique, his coat of shining black alpaca. His
linen was new, his tie resplendent; his watch-chain of linked metals
was an inch broad; his face beamed with expectancy; his whole being
seemed to vibrate with glad impatience.
The way to Alcudia passed through a rural district, running at first
by many small holdings, where patient mules were turning
water-wheels to irrigate the little fields where their masters were
hard at work.
The driver, curling himself up in his corner of the box-seat, dozed
off after the manner of diligence drivers who have started on their
first journey long before dawn. The horse, taking advantage of his
master's somnolence, walked more and more and more slowly, until at
intervals the driver, unwillingly opening half an eye to see how far
we had progressed and finding us almost at a standstill, would urge
him on with opprobrious words.
The day was lovely--how often I seem to have written that! In the
lush green corn grasshoppers were chirping. By the wayside the
convolvulus was opening its big pink cups. And in the dark interior
of the diligence the bronzed man was telling his story.
He was a son of the district towards which we were slowly advancing.
His parents had a wayside _taverna_ and a tiny farm. But in the
family there were many mouths to feed, and though in Majorca there
was always food for all, money was scarce. So five years ago he had
gone to Algeria to push his fortunes. Now, having made a little
money, he was returning, without warning of his coming, to his old
home. As to the future? Well, that was for his parents to decide.
One did not require to be told that the five years of exile had been
industrious and frugal ones. Now the great moment was at hand. He
was already experiencing the expectant joy of the returning
wanderer.
When the small holdings had been left far in the rear and rocky
hills rose beyond the fertile fields, his assumed composure
vanished. He became frankly excited, eagerly watching the lonely
road and scanning the fields for sign of familiar forms and faces.
As the coach made a momentary pause while the driver delivered a
loaf and an amorphous parcel to a road-mender, the Exile, thrusting
his head from the back window, shouted greeting. And the roadman,
recognizing an old friend, ran after the already receding coach to
grasp him warmly by the hand.
The driver was wide-awake now, and evidently determined to make up
for lost time. And the cigars our Exile wished to give the
_caminero_ had to be thrown on the road, from which with grateful
nods and smiles he picked them up.
As he drew near his old home the Exile, though even more keenly
alert, became silent. When the little _taverna_ by the wayside came
in sight the driver, rising to the occasion, put on pace and pulled
up before the door in grand style.
The unusual sight of the coach stopping brought the old _tavernero_
and his wife to the wide doorway. From my perch on the box I saw
their expressions change from surprise to amazed delight. It was the
father--a typical Majorcan with a hale spare figure and shrewd
kindly face--who, advancing first, seized his exultant son in his
arms. The mother held back a moment, quivering with joyous
emotions, her lips parted in speechless welcome. Then, running
forward, she fell upon his neck.
The host and hostess of the Fonda Marina gave us hearty welcome,
and, as before, heaped benefits upon us. In our three months of
absence young Cristobal had grown perceptibly. He was at school now,
and had already learned to recite in Spanish sing-song the days of
the week and the months of the year.
Our former rooms overlooking the bay were vacant, and for three long
summer days we wandered as we listed--over the white sands, which
were now rich with the rare shells and scarlet coral for which, on
our previous visit, I had looked in vain; or among the pines, whose
sun-distilled fragrance mingled with the sea air. One radiant
morning we took a luncheon basket and wandered as far as the
Albufera, but at all other times the excellent cooking of the
mistress of the _fonda_ lured us back in time for meals.
The few people we encountered looked pleasantly at us. And the
Captain of the Port--a retired naval officer who spent much of his
time fishing from a boat moored at his own front door--most
courteously called, and presented me with a bouquet sent by the
ladies of his house.
Monday evening saw us back at the Casa Tranquila. With Tuesday began
the uncongenial labour of dissolution; for the little house that
during the never-to-be-forgotten months had been our headquarters
had to be emptied of its contents. Our belongings were few in
number, but our manner of living had brought us into such intimate
relations with them that we felt personal interest in each article.
We had developed quite an affection for our yellow cups and saucers
with their crude bunches of red and blue flowers; and our
chocolate-pot of brown and yellow native ware, with its perforated
lid and wooden pestle, ranked as a family friend.
The great vine that during the first months of our stay had
converted the veranda into an airy bower was again covered with
foliage and with embryonic clusters of grapes that some more lucky
tenants would enjoy. The rose-bushes that had bloomed all winter
were sending out an abundance of bud-laden shoots. Ripe lemons still
clung to the higher branches of the tree, though the new fruit was
already formed.
There was scant time for all we had to do. Yet we managed to pay
good-bye visits; to take final peeps at our favourite haunts; to
secure on behalf of a poultry-fancying friend a setting of the eggs
of certain Moorish-looking fowls whose jet black bodies were topped
by huge white feather turbans; to dig up bulbs of the most curious
kinds of fly orchis for another friend who is so fortunate as to
possess a "wonder garden."
Our final day, which rushed upon us before we had steeled ourselves
to meet it, was deplorably wet. It seemed as though the climate that
had treated us so generously was weeping at the thought of our
departure.
We lunched daintily at the home of our good friends the Consul and
his wife. Then came the moment when, for the last time, the bells of
Bartolome's chariot jingled at the door of the Casa Tranquila, and
the neighbours came out to wish us God-speed. None of them came
empty-handed. Pepe brought his finest carnations. The Andalusian
lady, her entire brood clinging to her matronly skirts, also offered
flowers, and the retired gentleman who lived in the lordly mansion
across the way hastened to cut his choicest roses.
So with the carriage full of fragrant evidence of good will, we
drove off, to pause a moment at Apolonia's door to bid her farewell.
At the distribution of odds and ends a rug and a hat had been
allotted to Apolonia. And when she seized this opportunity of
thanking us for the trifles sent her, Apolonia spoke appreciatively
of the rug, but there were tears in her bright eyes when she
referred to the _sombrero_. And that makes one wonder how it is that
the utterly useless and incongruous gifts are often the most valued.
The dear old soul had never worn a hat in her life and certainly
never would. The article could be of no possible use to her, but
perhaps, like Jess in the _Window in Thrums_ with her mantle, she
"would aye ken it was there."
As we turned the corner we got a glimpse of Mr. and Mrs. Pepe
carrying a gaily coloured handkerchief containing the discarded suit
of the Boy's that had fallen to Pepe's share. Waving the bundle,
they indicated that they were already on their way to the tailor's
to have the suit altered.
The Angelus was ringing as the _Miramar_ steamed out into the mist.
Standing at the stern, we looked back while the rain-clouds
gradually blotted out the town, and thought of the little house at
Son Espanolet standing empty and forlorn.
We had hoped that when the inevitable hour of parting came we might
leave in one of those magnificent sunsets under which we had so
often watched the mail-boat start for Barcelona. But though our last
sight of Majorca was veiled with rain and tears, we will always
remember it as a land of sunshine and of smiles.
INDEX
Afterglow, 251
Alaro, 204
Castle of, 211
Children of, 213
Albufera, the, 173
Alcudia, 169, 175
Port of, 170
Almudaina Palace, 27, 149
_Almudaina, La_, 265
Aloes, 184, 188
Amphitheatre, Roman, 176
Amusements, 277
Andalusia, family from, 22, 332
Andraitx, 111
Port of, 117
Aquarium at Porto Pi, 282
Archduke Luis Salvador, 66, 82
Arraco, 123
Arta, 227
Caves of, 232
Asparagus, wild, 288
Asphodel, 286, 298
Astronomers, British, 55
Banners, Hall of the, 235
Barbarossa, 198
Barcelona, 1
Barnils, Hotel, 5, 6
Barranco, the, 100
Basket-making, 238
Begonias, 240
Bellver, Castle of, 4, 51
Biniaraix, 100, 249
Birthday party, 102
Boot-brushing, 190
Borrow, 49
Breeches, baggy, 64, 159, 164, 282
British Consul at Iviza, 297, 321
" " " Mahon, 200
" influence in Minorca, 186
Bull-fighting, 277
Butterflies, 284
Byng, Admiral, 195
Cabo Blanco, 211
Cabo de Pera, 182, 237
Cabrera, 169, 211
Cabritt and Bassa, 209
Cactus (prickly pear), 21, 122, 124, 160, 189, 205
Cala Fonts, Minorca, 198
Cala Retjada, 238
Calvario at Pollensa, 160
Candelabra, silver, 149
Capdepera, 231, 237
Cape Vermay, 238
Carabineros, 77
Carthusian Monastery, 71
Cas Catala, 109
Castle of Alaro, 211
" " Bellver, 4, 51
" and fortifications, Iviza, 294
Catalans, Cave of the, 218
Cathedral, Palma, 134, 143, 147
" Iviza, 294
Cave at Genova, 282
" of the Holy Well, 139
" " Ramon Lull, 86
" " Santa Ines, Iviza, 316
" Smugglers', 87
Caves of Arta, 232
" the Dragon, Manacor, 217
Chaperonage, 5, 239, 268
Charcoal stove, 45
Charioteer, our, 67, 74, 152, 277, 332
Chopin, 12,70
Christians, early, 115
Christmas Eve, 134
" market, 132
Church of Jesus, Iviza, 324
Ciudadela, Minorca, 181
Clubs, 275
Cobbler and his wife, 21, 333
Coinage, 49
Columns, Queen of the, 236
Commercial travellers, 182, 200
Conquistador, the, 4, 10, 52, 83, 109, 139, 144, 181, 194, 232
" Feast of, 143
Conscripts, 166, 280
Consell, 204
Consul, our friend the, 15, 43, 131, 202, 332
Consumos, 46, 127, 133
Cookery, 11, 33, 65, 93, 113, 156, 171, 206, 227, 236
Coral, 331
Cost of living, 276
Courtship, 268, 304, 318
Customs, 5, 130
Dances, religious, 213
Dancing at San Antonio, Iviza, 317
Delights, Cave of, 218
Deya, 91, 254, 259
Diligence, travelling by, 105, 126, 225, 283, 329
Dogs for hunting, 239
Dress, fashionable, 266
Dress, native, 10, 61, 63, 159, 226, 265, 293, 312
Dromios, the two, 165, 168
Eagles, 71, 211, 260
Electric light, 17, 136, 206
Enciamada, the, 6
Esglayeta, 68
Exile, returned, 330
Fairy, the Good, 245, 250, 252, 255
Ferrer, 3
Firewood, 45
First communicants, 248
Flowers, wild, 99, 121, 141, 192, 220, 240, 258, 285, 286, 298
Fonda de Mallorca, Palma, 5
" " Rande, Arta, 227
" Central, Mahon, 185
" Feminias, Manacor, 216
" Marina, Alcudia, 170, 331
" at Iviza, 291
Fondas, country, 274
Footgear, 10
Fornalutx, 100
French influence, 98
Frogs at Iviza, 311
Furnishing, 17
Gardening, 21, 45
_General Chanzy_, wreck of, 182
Genova, 282
Governesses, 268
Governor of Iviza, 321, 326
Grand Hotel, Palma, 4, 204, 214, 274
Gymnesias, 11
Holy Thursday, procession on, 260
Hoo-poo, 243
Hospederia, 67, 72, 90, 260
Hospitality, 15, 325
Hotel Barnils, Palma, 5, 6
" Grand, 4, 204, 214, 274
" Marina, Soller, 92, 97, 105, 244
Hot months, the, 273
House-hiring, 16
Housekeeping, 23
Ilex, forest of, 239
Inca, 63
Iviza, 289
British Consul at, 297, 321, 322
Castle and fortification, 294
Cathedral, 294
Cave of Santa Ines, 316
Church of Jesus, 324
Cost of living, 327
Courtship, 304, 318
Dress, 293, 302, 308, 312
Driving, 314
Early occupation of, 289
Fonda, 291
Frogs, 311
Hospitality, 325
Market, 293
Museum, 304
New Governor, 321, 326
Noria, 308, 312, 324
Phoenician catacombs, 298
Roman wall and statues, 292
Salinas, 323
San Antonio, 314
San Rafael, 314
Santo Domingo, 295
Small holdings, 308
Wild flowers, 298
King Alphonso IV, 209
" Jaime, el Conquistador, 4, 10, 52, 83, 109, 139, 144, 181, 194, 232
" Jaime II, 149
" Sancho, 69, 84
Kitchen, farm, 103, 258
Language, 48, 121, 196, 200
Laundress, our, 49, 332
Lavender, sweet, 141
Locusts, 284
Lonja, the, 56
Lull, Ramon, 83
Mahon, 184
Mallorquin antiquities, 81, 150, 177, 240
" prices, 7, 43, 44, 112, 155, 168, 170
Manacor, 216
Marketing, 7, 63, 80, 132, 159, 164, 189, 225, 283
Martel, French expert, 219
Mas, Juan, 167
Masked penitents, 263
Military service, 280
Minorca, 181
Athenaeum at Mahon, 189
Barbarossa, 198
Boot-brushing, 190
British Consul, 200
" influence, 186
Byng, Admiral, 195
Cala Fonts, 198
Ciudadela, 181
Commercial travellers, 182, 200
English words, 196
Fonda Central Mahon, 185
Market at Mahon, 189
San Luis, 195
Talyots, 190
Taula, 192
Villa Carlos, 198
Whitewash, 185
Wreck of the _General Chanzy_, 182
Miramar, 75
Monastery, Carthusian, 71
Montjuich, 3
Moorish oppression, 144
" refugees, 232
" tower, 173
Mosquitoes, 118, 285
Music, 31, 102, 140, 145
Navidad, 128
Nightingales, 245
Noria, 174, 308, 312, 324
Offerings, votive, 162, 297
Olive-oil factory, 103
Operations in church, exciting, 220
Orchis, fly, 220, 286
Our Lady of the Peak, 164
" " " Refuge, 209
Palma de Mallorca, 4
Almudaina, 27, 149
Body of Jaime II, 150
Cathedral, 134, 143
" treasures of, 147
Consumeros, 46
Customs office, 5
First impression, 4
Grand Hotel, 4, 204, 214, 274
Hotel Barnils, 5, 6
Lonja, the, 56
Markets, 7, 132
Port, 27
Post-office, 129
San Francisco, church of, 85
Social life, 266
Tavern at the port, 32
Palmettos, 160, 238
Palm Sunday, 245
Peak, Our Lady of the, 164
Penitents, masked, 263
Phoenician catacombs, Iviza, 298
" village, 239
Pigs, 134, 181, 183
Plants, the rarer Balearic, 287
Plum pudding, 130
Pollensa, 155
Port of, 157
Town hall of, 165
Port of Palma, 27
Porto Pi, 4, 15, 273, 276, 285
Post-office, Palma, 129
Prices, Majorcan, 7, 43, 44, 112, 155, 168, 170
Puebla, La, 154, 329
Puerto Cristo, 217
Puig Mayor, 100, 105, 244, 245, 249, 256, 257
Queen of the Columns, 236
" of Spain, birthday of, 14
Rain, 10, 92, 203, 271
Ramon Lull, 83
Refuge, Our Lady of the, 209
Refugees, Moorish, 232
Relics, sacred, 147
Rent, house, 19, 250
Road-mending, 252
Roman amphitheatre, 176
" gateway, 169
" graves, 177
" statues, Iviza, 292
Salinas, 323
Saloon accommodation, first, 2, 194, 197
" " second, 180, 194, 197, 202
Salt, shipping, 323
Samphire, 207
San Antonio, Iviza, 314
San Francisco, church of, 85
San Lorenzo, 226
San Luis, Minorca, 195
San Rafael, Iviza, 314
San Roch, Feast of, 213
Sand, George, 12, 70
Santa Catalina, 15, 18
Santa Maria, 62
Santo Domingo, Iviza, 295
Scots visitors, 278
Secoma, 125
Sereno, the, 12
Servants, 276
Shells, 172, 282, 331
Smugglers' cave, 87
Snow, 271
Social life, 266
Soller, 94, 243
Port of, 96, 257
Fiesta at, 283
Son Espanolet, 15, 18, 46, 166, 273
Son Mas, Andraitx, 115
Son Moragues, 82
Son Puigdorfila, 138
Son Rapina, 138, 273
Son Servera, 230
Sponges, 282
Squire and Lady, 204, 272, 278
Steamer _Ancona_ of Leith, 30
_Balear_, 1, 3
_Cataluna_, 321
_Isla de Menorca_, 197
_Lulio_, 290
_Miramar_, 34, 333
_Monte Toro_, 180
_Vicente Sanz_, 194
_Villa de Soller_, 97
Sunshine, 270
Talyots, 190
Taula, 192
Taylor, Bayard, 69
Tea, 6, 81, 241
Temple, the white, 76
Terreno, the, 15, 51, 273, 276
Tobacco, 32, 119, 317
Torrentes, 94, 117, 140, 249
Tourists, 28, 281
Tower, Moorish, 173
Town Hall, Pollensa, 165
Train, travelling by, 61, 153
Travellers, commercial, 182
Travelling by diligence, 105, 108, 126, 154
Valldemosa, 69, 80, 260
Vegetable man, our, 25, 50
Vermay, Cape, 238
Vigilante, our, 39, 277
Villa Carlos, Minorca, 198
Votive offerings, 162, 297
Wells, chain (norias), 174, 308, 312, 324
Whitewash, 185
Wild asparagus, 288
Wild flowers, 99, 121, 141, 192, 220, 240, 258, 285, 286, 298
Wind at Minorca, 191
Windmills, 122
Wine shop, 65, 112
Winter climate, ideal, 270
Yachting, 275
Yacht of the Czar, 28
The Gresham Press
UNWIN BROTHERS, LIMITED,
WOKING AND LONDON.
* * * * *
Transcriber's note:
Times are shown using a period notation e.g. 7.40, these have been
left unchanged.
Changed quatro to cuatro in the second repetition of "Onza reals,
_cuatro_ centims, dos centims". (Ch. IV Housekeeping.)
Changed jewelry to jewellery in "conjunction with handsome
_jewelry_" for consistency with the rest of the book. (Ch. VI THE
FAIR AT INCA.)
_En el nombre del Padre, y del Higo, y del Espiritu Santo_ was left
unchanged, but this is normally written _En el nombre del Padre, y del
=Hijo=, y del Espiritu Santo_. (Ch. VI THE FAIR AT INCA.)
Changed biscochos to bizcochos in "crisply toasted _bizcochos_".
(Ch. VIII MIRAMAR.)
Changed 'were' to 'was' in "Even in its natural state it _was_
difficult". (Ch. IX SOLLER.)
"made his money in Buenos Ayres" was left unchanged, although more
commonly known as Buenos Aires. (Ch. XV THE PORT OF ALCUDIA.)
"Muchos gracias, senor." was left unchanged, but this is correctly
said - "Muchas gracias, senor." (Ch. XXVI AN IVIZAN SABBATH.)
There is quite a lot of inconsistency in the book with words that are
hyphenated or spaced and/or joined. These have been left unchanged.
Likewise, accents and indication of foreign words (using italics) are
inconsistent. These have been corrected for placenames without
comment; all others have been left unchanged.