CHAPTER XIV.

At no other town in the State is the entertainment for visitors more of

a success than here, and one of those pleasant occasions brought a large

number of happy hearts together, to witness a grand opening of the

Lunch-basket on the North Beach.

Many have been the devices, in all ages of the world, by every nation

peopling the habitable globe, for a relaxation from the sterner duties

of life. Among the first to which persons of various tastes have

resorted is archery, which was practiced by that wild outcast, Ishmael,

"whose hand was against every man, and every man's hand against him." We

also read in the Pentateuch of a great and mighty hunter named Nimrod;

while conspicuously prominent among the biblical characters Job poetizes

upon drawing large finny monsters from the deep waters, and at a later

date in the same profession of the apostles.

Many monks of the Middle Ages in France are said to have delighted more

in the chase at times than the "trumpet of the gospel." Bull-fights, as

an amusement, are supposed to have originated with the Moors, and are

still practiced by the Spaniards, many of them being of Moorish origin.

Grounds in the vicinity of St. Augustine have been located, beyond a

doubt, where this cruel and barbarous custom was indulged in by early

Spanish settlers. Archery has been the most popular pastime here this

season. The Indians have made the bows and arrows for compensation and

employment--more arrows having been thrown by the "sons of the forest"

than hurled from the shafts of Cupid.

We can produce, as patrons of the hook-and-line art, prophets and

apostles in ancient times, kings of more recent date, and Izaak Walton,

who lived nearly two hundred years ago, down to the truant boy that

throws his bent pin, baited with an innocent worm, or fly, into the

clear running brook, at which an old fish looks, as if about to nibble,

then wags his tail and sails away in search of something that he can

take in without being taken himself.

A very worthy divine, Bishop Hall, has wisely remarked: "Recreation to

the mind is like whetting to the scythe. The mind that is always mowing

becomes dull for the sharpening which relaxation affords it; so the

blade that is always cutting is blunted for the want of an edge that

grinding can give."

The above remarks on recreation were suggested by an attendance upon the

opening of the Lunch-basket on the North Beach, opposite Anastasia

Island, at a place called by the classic name of Parathina, from Homer's

"Iliad": _Eban kerukes para thina tou poluphloisboio thalassees_--"The

heralds went to the beach of the high-sounding sea." A long-looked-for

and much-needed means of conveyance--a nice little steamer, called the

Mayflower--has made us happy already by its presence and

business-dispatching movements. She is a light-running little craft,

that glides gracefully as a swan. Sailing and rowing are now lost sight

of by visitors wishing to take a little ride on the water, as the wind

never dies out and leaves them, or the oar-hands grow weary, on a

steamer. The two first trips she carried over seventy passengers, which

made the day pay very well.

Mr. J. F. Whitney, who, like all the editorial fraternity, is ever busy

in trying to suggest something for either mind or body, being the prime

mover in this undertaking, has erected four pavilions, and a cook-room,

with a range. One of the smaller pavilions is carpeted, supplied with

periodicals, rocking-chairs, and a bed for the sick to rest. The largest

pavilion is nearly two hundred feet in length, and over twenty feet

wide; in front is an extended view of the beach, beyond which the

restless sea is rolling up new-born waves at every influx of its waters.

Here are also detached dining-tables for the accommodation of parties

coming together. The floor is level and smooth as it can be made, where,

it has already been whispered,

---- youth and pleasure meet,

To chase the glowing hours with flying feet.

The bill of fare for the occasion was equal to any New York restaurant.

Broiled oysters vanished with the ejaculation, "Splendid!" All eatables

shared a similar fate, with a superlative adjective attached, as the

only one which could express the gratification of the guests.

Champagne-bottles were relieved of their sparkling contents in a brief

period of time. Ice-cream and pound-cake were soon reckoned among past

pleasures, while everybody was eloquent on the subject of the

surroundings.

The North Beach has now more attractions and amusements than any other

point in the State, and when the arrangements are completed with a stud

of riding and driving horses, it may well be styled the Newport of the

South. Like Scipio the Great, after the repast many wandered by the

"murmuring sea," and gathered shells to take home with them as mementoes

of pleasant memories in a sunny clime.

When refined hearts and well-cultivated minds meet in a spot made grand

by the great Maker of all things, and rendered comfortable to our wants

by the hand of Art, where only God and his heavenly wonders have dwelt

in solitude for so many years, may we not say Scripture is being

fulfilled--that "the wilderness and the solitary place shall be glad?"

Yes, glad with happy voices in congenial companionship, and joyous with

the sweets of social intercourse. It is, indeed, "a well in the

desert"--a place provided, where persons in the pursuit of pleasure can

assemble and forget all adverse religious tenets, political differences,

or personal animosities--where secret and selfish purposes in life are

lost sight of--whether gold is up or down, what are the last figures on

the bulletin-boards of the "bulls and bears," the fractional variations

of upland or sea-island cotton, being among the subjects absorbed in the

enjoyment of the hour.

[Illustration: FLORIDA RAY-FISH, OR SKATE.]

Among others came the never-tiring fisherman, with reel and fancy bait,

who appeared much delighted with an opportunity of having sea-room for

the exhibition of his skill. He did not have to follow the old rule of

"fishing inch by inch," with an indefinite idea of when he would have a

nibble. Here is an illustration of his first bite, which caused him to

retire, dragging his prize to shore, thinking, perhaps, he might have

captured some Pythagorean metamorphosis, as it resembled neither fish

nor flesh. Upon summoning those present to his relief, the following

decision was rendered: A ray-fish, or skate, having a cartilaginous

body, of nearly a white color, with pectoral fins largely developed, the

caudal extremity being elongated into a whip-like form, armed with

spine, which makes it an ugly customer for collision. The female, being

oviparous, is provided with parchment-like cases, forming an extension,

called by seamen "sailor's purses."

The moon rose that night and looked down upon a joyous crowd seated on

the Mayflower, with a fine band from the St. Augustine Hotel. Music on

the water--who can describe its enchanting influences! It was high tide

when we arrived on the North Beach, when planks were put out for the

party to walk on, while the gentlemen and steamer-crew assisted them to

the shore. One lady remarked, in crossing, "Sometimes I take a black

hand, and then a white one." We were not particular about color then; it

was strong hands we wanted to keep us from falling in the water, as the

waves were washing over our feet. The band played sweetly, the dancing

was graceful, the refreshments abundant. When returning, the last trip,

the steamer grounded on a sand-bar, as it was ebb-tide, when the Captain

of the Bache Survey steamer kindly sent his long-boat and brought us all

to the wharf.

_St. Augustine_, March, 1877.--The work of enlivening the old town, for

the delectation of visitors and excursionists from other points, was

undertaken here to-day. Everybody was merry, and it was almost

incredible to see the number of dignified persons, on other occasions,

so completely carried along with the tide of simple sight. All,

apparently, had their laugh set on trigger, ready to go off with the

slightest vibration in the air. The streets and sea-wall of St.

Augustine, together with the balconies, windows, and doors, in the

vicinity, were the scene of preparation for a grand gala-day of

sight-seeing. The vessels in the harbor were dressed in flags of every

nationality, and waved free as the winds that tossed them to and fro.

The post-band played stirring strains, containing more sound than

sweetness, to quicken the impulses of the occasion. At a given signal,

cannons were fired, when a fleet of snowy sails shot out from the wharf,

resembling a flock of sea-gulls. The yacht-racing opened the day's

sport. They all sailed swiftly when first under way, but one after

another kept falling off and dropping behind, until the Wanderer and

Seminole were left alone to decide the contest. They moved like

something possessed with life, more than canvas spread to the breeze for

power to propel them. Finally the Wanderer won, amid the wildest shouts

of joy from every side, and many congratulations for the owner. The

cannons fired with as much demonstration as though a great battle had

just been decided. A horse-race was announced as the next excitement.

Eight jockey-dressed men and boys of different hues, mounted on

bare-backed horses of undistinguishable pedigree, but marsh tackey

predominant, were ready for the curriculum. They darted off with the

speed of a Grecian hippodrome, when they imitated the gait of almost

every untrained quadruped. On the home-stretch two of the riders rolled

off easily, as though it was a portion of the programme for which they

were prepared. Then came the hurdle-race, with the hurdles woven from

cedar and scantling. The running was sport, but the jumping was without

comparison. One of the horses caught his feet and plunged over, rider

and horse together, but, neither being hurt, everybody shouted with

glee. Another of the Arabian steeds carried the hurdles off victorious

with his hind feet, but did not fall. A foot-race by the Indians was

then declared with as much gravity as though a Grecian contestant, after

all the abstinence and training of an ancient athlete, proposed to try

his strength and speed for a victor's crown. Three or four big Indians,

dressed with fancy caps and moccasins, walked to the pedestrian

race-grounds, after which one started to run, but fell. The crowd was

too big for them, and the reward too small. Two of the natives took

their places, and made very good time, but not quite equal to a

professional walker. Then came the hand-barrow race, with that

unhistoric vehicle about which poets never sing. Ten black boys, with

ten bright bandages over their eyes, started to run a race across the

east side of the plaza. They all commenced at the word three, the band

played, the people shouted, while the boys ran; the wheel-barrows were

running a race, and so was everybody else. One boy went into the

river-basin before he could be stopped; another rushed against a

carriage, and set the horses to kicking and the ladies to screaming; a

man was knocked down and run over--he was a prim, particular bachelor,

with fine estates, whose birthday is best known to himself--it required

the combined efforts of two servants to brush the sand from his clothes

and place him in presentable trim again. Everybody in the vicinity was

liable to be under moving orders without a moment's warning. Finally the

race ended, and the victor crowned with greenbacks, which he could

appreciate more highly than the laureate wreath of a conqueror, fresh

from the goal with his coronet of fading glories.

The last performance was the greasy pole, with a fat ham on the top of

it, placed in the center of the plaza. What a climbing, scrambling, and

tumbling down, amid exclamations from the boys: "Bob, what made you let

go?" "Tom, go up, and I will hold you!" "Put on more sand, and then we

can climb!" The plaza was crowded with spectators--scores of

grandparents, all clapping their hands and laughing--large families,

with all their children, were there. The scene before them required no

explanation. Finally, after a struggle of two hours, the ham and money

were won, when all retired from the varied and innocent sports of the

day.

St. Augustine demonstrates the fact, beyond a doubt, that the cat is a

musical animal. They sit under your windows, climb on the neighboring

roofs, scream in any strain, from the lowest bass to the loudest

soprano, and never tire until the stars pale in the sky; do not become

dismayed because a few pieces of coquina are thrown at them, glass

bottles, or old boots--that only causes a change of position, when the

voice rises an octave higher, on account of the escape from a little

adventure. Here they congregate in crowds; they rehearse their exploits

in excited strains, with untiring assiduity, for the entertainment of

visitors, to prevent their receiving the impression that _St. Augustine

is a dull old place_. Then the digestive organs of the departed are

manufactured, and made to imitate the same dulcet tones in the halls of

mirth, where so many derive pleasure, by turning themselves into more

shapes than a captured sea-eel. At the St. Augustine Hotel they swallow

all kinds of condiments to the sounds coming from these membranous

strings, stretched beyond all marks of their former identity. With a

satisfied smile, and no fears from indigestion, the invalid or

consumptive consumes every variety of food, whether from land or sea,

compounded into the latest styles of the _cuisine_, to the music of "_Il

Bachio_," or "A place in thy memory, dearest!" while ice-cream vanishes

like dew to the melody, "Thou art so near, and yet so far!" or "Some one

to love me!"

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